Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:52 AM - kma 20/kx175 (Mitch Berger)
2. 06:40 AM - Re: lighting dimmers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:47 AM - Re: Building an E-Buss, Main Buss, fuse (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:53 AM - Re: kma 20/kx175 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:56 AM - Re: Ray Allen stick grip wiring questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:07 AM - Re: Re: lighting dimmers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 08:13 AM - Re: cooling fans (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:27 AM - Re: Re: Call the ball ?? (Don Honabach)
9. 08:34 AM - Audio Isolation Amplifier (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 08:45 AM - Re: Building an E-Buss, Main Buss, fuse block assembly - my idea (Julia)
11. 09:04 AM - Brass hardware (David Swartzendruber)
12. 09:17 AM - Placing headset jacks (BAKEROCB@aol.com)
13. 09:30 AM - Re: Building an E-Buss, Main Buss, fuse (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 10:03 AM - Re: Brass hardware (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 10:04 AM - Re: Placing headset jacks (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 10:50 AM - Re: Building an E-Buss, Main Buss, fuse block assembly - my idea (Julia)
17. 10:57 AM - Re: Brass hardware (David Swartzendruber)
18. 11:28 AM - Re: Building an E-Buss, Main Buss, fuse block assembly (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 12:32 PM - Joysticks (Mark Phillips)
20. 12:35 PM - Re: Brass hardware (Mark Phillips)
21. 12:55 PM - Kevin, Craig and Cliff (Fergus Kyle)
22. 03:23 PM - Re: Joysticks (Gerald Giddens)
23. 03:57 PM - Re: Brass hardware (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
24. 04:15 PM - Re: Re: Building an E-Buss, Main Buss, fuse block assembly (Benford2@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mitch Berger <mberger@snet.net>
I have a strange problem with the com side of my
radio. Perhaps someone on the list can help.
When i tune in a com frequency on my #1 radio, (KX-175
mac1700 conversion) in the range of 118.30 to 119.75 I
get playback of my voice through my overhead speaker
when I don't have it selected on the kma 20. I use a
David Clark headset with headsets, inc anc conversion
and yoke mounted ptt. This creates a feedback
situation that makes my transmissions difficult to
hear on the receiving end.
When I switch to my second radio, KX 170b with the
same frequency, the playback through the speaker
doesn't occur and everything is ok, except I have
little or no side tone on that radio.
This situation on the #1 com does not seem to occur
when I tune in higher frequencies beginning in the
120's.
Hopefully someone can give me some guidance before I
consult with an avionics tech.
Best,
Mitch Berger
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: lighting dimmers |
<5.0.0.25.2.20030327110307.01bdaca8@pop.central.cox.net>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:26 PM 3/27/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>Thank you , Bob. I think I will use the little "eyeball" cockpit lights (2
>of them) to flood the panel. A/C Spruce and some others carry them. They
>are incandescent but I don't know the output.
Okay. I think the combination of two eyeball lights may
be on the same order of current draw as the single lamp
in the one-lamp dimmer kit. So a separate, low cost dimmer
control for your floods is feasible . . . the eyeball
lights may draw LESS current which means we might need
to put a resistor in parallel with the lamps to make them
draw ENOUGH current to properly dim with the simple
rheostat. So, if you want to go the separate dimmer
route, there is a ready solution. If you want to switch
two light sets to a single dimmer via switch, that's
okay too.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Building an E-Buss, Main Buss, fuse |
block assembly - my idea
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:37 PM 3/27/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>
>Todays Good Idea:
>
>I"ve been stewing on how to make my e-buss and main buss and came up with
>a neat idea.
>
>
>If you are familiar with B&Cs ground blocks, the 24 fast-on tab ones well
>they have a small hole on one end which would fit right onto the stud on
>the 10 slot fuse block sold by B&C. The other end contains a large bolt.
>
>My plan is to mount the 10-slot fuse block vertically with the ground
>block on top again the small hole in the bottom of the ground block would
>go onto the #8 stud off the top of the 10-slot fuse block. The two
>rectangular pieces would each be mounted vertically tied together with
>the fuseblock stud.
>
>Now make two of these units and let one be the main buss and one be the
>e-buss. Mount them side by side on quarter inch white plastic board and
>just bolt the board to another board (you might use 1/8 inch white board
>here - this just insulates the through bolts which bolt the fast-on tab
>blocks to the white board from the fuselage) - then bolt it all to the
>next panel behind the instrument panel. Let the white board hang down
>below the bottom of this panel so the fuse blocks are a bit easier to get to.
>
>One of the vans guys once said he wished he had put a ground block behind
>the panel. With my plan I will have plenty of fast-on tabs available for
>any main buss needs, e-buss needs, fused needs, or ground needs all with
>easy access just behind the panel.
>
>Time to hit the sack hopefully I havent lost you here but it sure
>sounded like a great idea to me.
I'm lost . . . are you suggesting that the ground blocks be
electrically tied to the buss-feed stud on fuse blocks? I'm
mystified as to why you would want to do this. Each fuse block
IS a bus . . . one fuse block for main bus, one for e-bus, perhaps
another for the battery bus. The ground block is central to the
whole electrical system and provides ground for virtually everything
except a short list of items which can ground locally in ships
with metal airframes. Ground blocks are not insulated from the
airframe but in fact are tied to the firewall sheet. This is where
all grounds come together including crankcase to firewall jumper
and battery (-) leads. I don't understand what you are trying
to achieve with the alternate configuration described.
Bob . . .
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: kma 20/kx175 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:50 AM 3/28/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mitch Berger <mberger@snet.net>
>
>I have a strange problem with the com side of my
>radio. Perhaps someone on the list can help.
>
>When i tune in a com frequency on my #1 radio, (KX-175
>mac1700 conversion) in the range of 118.30 to 119.75 I
>get playback of my voice through my overhead speaker
>when I don't have it selected on the kma 20. I use a
>David Clark headset with headsets, inc anc conversion
>and yoke mounted ptt. This creates a feedback
>situation that makes my transmissions difficult to
>hear on the receiving end.
>
>When I switch to my second radio, KX 170b with the
>same frequency, the playback through the speaker
>doesn't occur and everything is ok, except I have
>little or no side tone on that radio.
>
>This situation on the #1 com does not seem to occur
>when I tune in higher frequencies beginning in the
>120's.
>
>Hopefully someone can give me some guidance before I
>consult with an avionics tech.
This sounds like a radio frequency interference
problem. You may be radiating a lot of the problem
transceiver's energy into the cockpit. Look for
open antenna coax shield connections at both
ends for that radio. If you can dummy-load the
offending transceiver (dummy load is a combination
of resistors designed to make the transmitter
THINK it is hooked to a properly operating antenna
while in fact, all of its output is being turned
into heat), and the problem goes away, it is
without a doubt related to degraded feedline
or proximity of antenna and audio system is too
close.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Ray Allen stick grip wiring questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:39 PM 3/27/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee"
><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>Hi all,
>
>Maybe those questions have already been addressed, so please pardon me.
>
>Question 1 :
>In Bob's schematics, the PTT wire is invariably twisted with the
>corresponding ground wire. In the four button Ray Allen stick grip
>instructions they show a common ground wire for the PTT wire and the four
>trim wires.
>That's one ground for five wires. What should I do ? Twist PTT wire and
>ground wire all the same ? But then what about the separate routing of the
>ground wire to the firewall ground bus ?
I don't like to bundle grounds together . . . breaking one
wire kills all associated functions . . .
>Question 2 :
>Ray Allen provides 20 ft of 26 AWG wire for the six wires from the grip.
>Our kit manufacturer uses one multi-conductor shielded wire, the shield
>playing a role as one of the wires.
>What would be the best solution ?
. . . either should be fine but 26 AWG is not a very
robust wire for airframe wiring. We're doing the grand
experiment with Premier in that some 24AWG wire is used
in some bundles . . . up until now, 22AWG was the "smallest
wire" rule.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: lighting dimmers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:14 PM 3/27/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>
>my floodlight plan is to use a flashlight
is it mounted for hand's free operation?
> - I do have the dimmer you mention - but why not run it off the e-bus as
> well.
"E" stands for endurance. Most panel lighting
installation draw MUCH more current than what
is necessary to light the panel for en route
conduct of flight. Further, one would do well
to have TWO panel lighting schemes . . . one
that wows the air-show judges and one that
provides low current, minimal panel lighting
for conducing e-bus operations.
> does it draw that much running the lights down low? I wouldn't think so.
It isn't so much a matter of getting
current down as it is having two independent
lighting systems. One wire coming loose from
your end-all-be-all lighting system leaves
you in the dark no matter which bus it's
powered from. If the standby system is
also very low power, then it's an excellent
candidate for being powered by the e-bus.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: cooling fans |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>My all-electric liquid-cooled V8 engine has 2 radiators with 20-amp fans,
>similar to an auto. The fans are normally required only on the ground; for
>extended taxi on really hot days and for 10 minutes after engine shutdown
Do these fans really draw 20A or is that just the recommended
fuse size? 40A of fans for 10 minutes works out to
about 7 a.h. of capacity that needs to be dedicated to
post flight cooling operations.
> (it has a liquid-cooled turbocharger). I'm thinking of using 20 amp CB
> switches for the fans.
Wouldn't give you a $1 for a boatload of CB-Switches . . .
but whatever floats your boat . . .
> (I'm using fuse blocks wherever I can but the biggest plug-in fuse is 15
> amps).
> I'd like to be able to (1) turn them on and off with the switch as required,
> and (2) turn them on with a timer after shutdown.
In cool weather, it might be that a fixed time is longer
than necessary. Fans in cars are controlled with thermostats
and only run as needed. This seems logical for airplanes
too . . .
> I have a dual batt, dual alt (120 amp and 20 amp) system. Any ideas for
> wiring the fans?
Get some REAL operating currents for the fans. I'm
skeptical of the 20A figure. What size batteries are
you prepared to carry? Why a 120A main alternator?
Suggest you join the aeroelectric-list for the conduct
of this and similar conversations. It's much better to
share with everyone interested than to carry on
a limited one-on-one discussion.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Call the ball ?? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Sorry Guys,
I know this needs to stop, but ...
I was recently showing my wife the new EFIS system I wanted and told her
that this would free up a lot of panel space. As such, I wasn't sure if
I should put in a glove (map) compartment or install a stereo. Her
response was, you should install that XM satellite radio thing - that
would be nice. I almost broke down and started to cry :)
Bad Joke:
New EAA/MasterCard Commercial:
Cost for new kit plane: $25,000
Cost for avionics: $15,000
Cost for engine: $20,000
Wife that lets you use the whole garage - priceless.
Take Care,
Don Honabach
Tempe, AZ - 601HDS
Do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Audio Isolation Amplifier |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
I've spent about as much time on the audio isolation
amp project as I can for the moment. Need to
catch up on other commitments. In the mean time,
folks who would like an advance look at the data package
are invited to download . . .
http://216.55.140.222/temp/Audio_Prelim.pdf
. . . feedback on errors would be welcome. Should
be able to put the whole instruction set together for
publishing on the website next week. In the mean time,
we're headed for the workbench to slave over a hot
soldering iron . . .
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Building an E-Buss, Main Buss, fuse block assembly |
- my idea
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
i'm using the fast-on tab ground block just as an extension of the buss on the
fuse blocks - not using it as a ground block. This would give me plenty of hook
ups for any other non fused power needs. But then I was think - it looks
like i want most things fused, so maybe i should just run the wire from the
master contactor straight to this main buss fuse block - what do you think?? I
do like the idea of mounting it on the white plastic board - so the fuse blocks
hang down - this would make it much easier to get at the fuses. This white
board might also be a good spot to mount relays and dimmers sytem, etc.
I made up a nice battery buss, I had not thought about fuses in that case - does
the hour meter need a fuse? does a clock which needs power all the time need
a fuse? sounds like I should change that bat. buss out for another fuseblock
- what do you think?
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> wrote:--> AeroElectric-List message
posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
At 08:37 PM 3/27/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia
>
>
>Todays Good Idea:
>
>I"ve been stewing on how to make my e-buss and main buss and came up with
>a neat idea.
>
>
>If you are familiar with B&Cs ground blocks, the 24 fast-on tab ones well
>they have a small hole on one end which would fit right onto the stud on
>the 10 slot fuse block sold by B&C. The other end contains a large bolt.
>
>My plan is to mount the 10-slot fuse block vertically with the ground
>block on top again the small hole in the bottom of the ground block would
>go onto the #8 stud off the top of the 10-slot fuse block. The two
>rectangular pieces would each be mounted vertically tied together with
>the fuseblock stud.
>
>Now make two of these units and let one be the main buss and one be the
>e-buss. Mount them side by side on quarter inch white plastic board and
>just bolt the board to another board (you might use 1/8 inch white board
>here - this just insulates the through bolts which bolt the fast-on tab
>blocks to the white board from the fuselage) - then bolt it all to the
>next panel behind the instrument panel. Let the white board hang down
>below the bottom of this panel so the fuse blocks are a bit easier to get to.
>
>One of the vans guys once said he wished he had put a ground block behind
>the panel. With my plan I will have plenty of fast-on tabs available for
>any main buss needs, e-buss needs, fused needs, or ground needs all with
>easy access just behind the panel.
>
>Time to hit the sack hopefully I havent lost you here but it sure
>sounded like a great idea to me.
I'm lost . . . are you suggesting that the ground blocks be
electrically tied to the buss-feed stud on fuse blocks? I'm
mystified as to why you would want to do this. Each fuse block
IS a bus . . . one fuse block for main bus, one for e-bus, perhaps
another for the battery bus. The ground block is central to the
whole electrical system and provides ground for virtually everything
except a short list of items which can ground locally in ships
with metal airframes. Ground blocks are not insulated from the
airframe but in fact are tied to the firewall sheet. This is where
all grounds come together including crankcase to firewall jumper
and battery (-) leads. I don't understand what you are trying
to achieve with the alternate configuration described.
Bob . . .
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
---------------------------------
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
Bob,
What is your experience with using brass studs for conducting electrical
current? My question is about potential corrosion problems. Does the
stud need to be plated or is unplated acceptable?
Dave in Wichita
Message 12
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| Subject: | Placing headset jacks |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net> on
placing headset jacks
<<.....skip....Now if I could just decide where to drill these six little
holes!
....skip...... Mark Phillips >>
3/28/2003
Hello Mark, After 44 years plus of plugging headsets plugs into a wide
variety of locations I came to the conclusion that the best location for the
pilot's headset jacks (in a side by side seating arrangement) was behind the
copilots seat back and the best location for the copilots headset jacks was
behind the pilots seatback. In sight and always reachable even when strapped
in. No plugs to bump with your knee and no cords lying across your lap.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Building an E-Buss, Main Buss, fuse |
block assembly - my idea
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:44 AM 3/28/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>
>i'm using the fast-on tab ground block just as an extension of the buss on
>the fuse blocks - not using it as a ground block. This would give me
>plenty of hook ups for any other non fused power needs.
Name any device you would even want to hook up that is
not fused . . .
> But then I was think - it looks like i want most things fused, so
> maybe i should just run the wire from the master contactor straight to
> this main buss fuse block - what do you think?? I do like the idea of
> mounting it on the white plastic board - so the fuse blocks hang down -
> this would make it much easier to get at the fuses. This white board
> might also be a good spot to mount relays and dimmers sytem, etc.
EVERYTHING that gets power from a bus uses some form
of protection. In our published drawings, distribution
from a bus is either via fuse, breaker or in rare cases,
fusible links.
>
>
>I made up a nice battery buss, I had not thought about fuses in that case
>- does the hour meter need a fuse? does a clock which needs power all
>the time need a fuse? sounds like I should change that bat. buss out for
>another fuseblock - what do you think?
EVERYTHING needs and should get protected . . .
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Brass hardware |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:03 AM 3/28/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber"
><dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>What is your experience with using brass studs for conducting electrical
>current? My question is about potential corrosion problems. Does the
>stud need to be plated or is unplated acceptable?
Haven't had much problem with corrosion . . . pressures
at the mated surfaces are high and gas-tight or near gas
tight. The studs on White-Rogers (old Stancor-RBM) contactors
have always been copper. You may have a customer with
a plating requirement for exposed copper alloys. I think
Cutler-Hammer contactors have tin plated brass studs.
Corrosion resistant materials have higher resistance
and tend to be more of a problem than low resistance
hardware that might corrode a bit. What's your
application?
Bob . . .
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Placing headset jacks |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:15 PM 3/28/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
>
>AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net> on
>placing headset jacks
>
><<.....skip....Now if I could just decide where to drill these six little
>holes!
> ....skip...... Mark Phillips >>
>
>3/28/2003
>
>Hello Mark, After 44 years plus of plugging headsets plugs into a wide
>variety of locations I came to the conclusion that the best location for the
>pilot's headset jacks (in a side by side seating arrangement) was behind the
>copilots seat back and the best location for the copilots headset jacks was
>behind the pilots seatback. In sight and always reachable even when strapped
>in. No plugs to bump with your knee and no cords lying across your lap.
Agreed. I was going to suggest above, behind and outboard of the
seat. I put some intercom systems in C-150s and moved the
mic-headset jacks to small boxes behind the seats. Cords were
always out of the way.
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Building an E-Buss, Main Buss, fuse block assembly |
- my idea
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
I would certainly think that a booster fuel pump would want a circuit breaker -
rather than a fuse - am I right on this one?
How about an electric attitude indicator - what's the point of a fuse the pilot
cannot replace in flight. The attitude indicator is an important item in IFR
- isn't it possible for it to start to fail and cause a surge in power (one
which might blow a fuse), but then it keeps running? I know it's not essential
for completion of the flight, but I certainly would prefer to have it -and
if a fuse blows - i'm absolutely not going to have the item work. Wouldn't
this also be the case with my electric turn coordinator??
I don't have my diagrams in front of me right now, but it seems like all of the
items on the e-buss would be better suited to ciruit breaker protection rather
than a fuse you cannot change in flight?
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> wrote:--> AeroElectric-List message
posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
At 08:44 AM 3/28/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia
>
>
>i'm using the fast-on tab ground block just as an extension of the buss on
>the fuse blocks - not using it as a ground block. This would give me
>plenty of hook ups for any other non fused power needs.
Name any device you would even want to hook up that is
not fused . . .
> But then I was think - it looks like i want most things fused, so
> maybe i should just run the wire from the master contactor straight to
> this main buss fuse block - what do you think?? I do like the idea of
> mounting it on the white plastic board - so the fuse blocks hang down -
> this would make it much easier to get at the fuses. This white board
> might also be a good spot to mount relays and dimmers sytem, etc.
EVERYTHING that gets power from a bus uses some form
of protection. In our published drawings, distribution
from a bus is either via fuse, breaker or in rare cases,
fusible links.
>
>
>I made up a nice battery buss, I had not thought about fuses in that case
>- does the hour meter need a fuse? does a clock which needs power all
>the time need a fuse? sounds like I should change that bat. buss out for
>another fuseblock - what do you think?
EVERYTHING needs and should get protected . . .
Bob . . .
---------------------------------
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
> >Bob,
> >
> >What is your experience with using brass studs for conducting
electrical
> >current? My question is about potential corrosion problems. Does
the
> >stud need to be plated or is unplated acceptable?
>
> Haven't had much problem with corrosion . . . pressures
> at the mated surfaces are high and gas-tight or near gas
> tight. The studs on White-Rogers (old Stancor-RBM) contactors
> have always been copper. You may have a customer with
> a plating requirement for exposed copper alloys. I think
> Cutler-Hammer contactors have tin plated brass studs.
>
> Corrosion resistant materials have higher resistance
> and tend to be more of a problem than low resistance
> hardware that might corrode a bit. What's your
> application?
>
> Bob . . .
>
The application is in an alternator fuse block on the firewall. The
stud is actually 5/16" dia with the end turned down to a 10-32 thread on
the end. An 80A Littelfuse MIDI fuse rests against the 5/16" dia
shoulder and is secured with a 10-32 nut. The 5/16" dia portion passes
through the wall of a J-Box to a current shunt inside. My concern is
for the connection between the alternator fuse and the 5/16" dia brass
part. Over time, with no inspection, will the corrosion cause a
localized overheating problem at that junction with continuous
alternator current.
Dave in Wichita
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Building an E-Buss, Main Buss, fuse block assembly |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:48 AM 3/28/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>
>I would certainly think that a booster fuel pump would want a circuit
>breaker - rather than a fuse - am I right on this one?
why? if the fuse/wire feeding the pump is proper size, it will
not nuisance trip. If the fuse/wire are proper size, the only
reason for the circuit to open is for reasons that make in-fight
reset risky if not hazardous.
>How about an electric attitude indicator - what's the point of a fuse the
>pilot cannot replace in flight. The attitude indicator is an important
>item in IFR - isn't it possible for it to start to fail and cause a surge
>in power (one which might blow a fuse), but then it keeps running? I
>know it's not essential for completion of the flight, but I certainly
>would prefer to have it -and if a fuse blows - i'm absolutely not going to
>have the item work. Wouldn't this also be the case with my electric
>turn coordinator??
>I don't have my diagrams in front of me right now, but it seems like all
>of the items on the e-buss would be better suited to ciruit breaker
>protection rather than a fuse you cannot change in flight?
Same as above. Review chapters 10, 17 and
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/fuseorcb.html
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/fusvsbkr.html
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/fusvbkr2.html
. . . and explain what conditions you anticipate
that fall outside the bounds for failure modes
discussed.
Bob . . .
Message 19
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
There was a recent discussion on using computer gaming joysticks on the
A-list. Does anyone present have any actual experience with these
devices such as how they are wired internally? I would imagine they are
generally robust considering the intended users, but I'm curious as to
their interior wiring. One particularly comfortable one I have looked
at (Saitek Cyborg 3D Force) has a fairly small 8-way hat on top. Are
these actual contacts or are we possibly talking about some kind of
multiplexed pressure or optical sensors that would be impossible to
wire?
This stick is attractive due to the ambidextrous design, fits well left
or right, and has an actual "trigger"- your fingers will fit under the
switch so you can grab the stick with all four fingers without worrying
about keying the mike (or other function for this switch) while hangin'
on to it.
Any of you "PC fighter jocks" ever had one apart?
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips - do not archive -
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Brass hardware |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> What is your experience with using brass studs for conducting electrical
> current? My question is about potential corrosion problems. Does the
> stud need to be plated or is unplated acceptable?
Would not some battery terminal grease minimize this problem? I used some red-colored
"battery
terminal" spray (don't recall specific product) several years ago on lawn mower,
tractor & car and
it seems to be holding up very well.
From The PossumWorks
Mark
Message 21
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| Subject: | Kevin, Craig and Cliff |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Heydi!
I'm just sitting here scratching my gut and reading the mail,
and I get the distinct impression you gentlemen are all misreading each
other.
3/8inch Aluminum is 3/8OD - it's also called dash6 size. That is what Bob
suggested since 5/16OD doesn't have very available fittings. The return line
for a 914 I'm almost sure would call for no more than 1/4"ID, but I'm using
3/8ID because it's easier and available - unless of course you leave a big
pump on but don't run the engine.
Cheers,
Ferg
Message 22
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerald Giddens <geraldgiddens@cox.net>
Anyone,
What is wrong with the MAC unit?
> From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
> Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 14:26:30 -0600
> To: AeroElectric List <AeroElectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Joysticks
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> There was a recent discussion on using computer gaming joysticks on the
> A-list. Does anyone present have any actual experience with these
> devices such as how they are wired internally? I would imagine they are
> generally robust considering the intended users, but I'm curious as to
> their interior wiring. One particularly comfortable one I have looked
> at (Saitek Cyborg 3D Force) has a fairly small 8-way hat on top. Are
> these actual contacts or are we possibly talking about some kind of
> multiplexed pressure or optical sensors that would be impossible to
> wire?
>
> This stick is attractive due to the ambidextrous design, fits well left
> or right, and has an actual "trigger"- your fingers will fit under the
> switch so you can grab the stick with all four fingers without worrying
> about keying the mike (or other function for this switch) while hangin'
> on to it.
>
> Any of you "PC fighter jocks" ever had one apart?
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips - do not archive -
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> >
>The application is in an alternator fuse block on the firewall. The
>stud is actually 5/16" dia with the end turned down to a 10-32 thread on
>the end. An 80A Littelfuse MIDI fuse rests against the 5/16" dia
>shoulder and is secured with a 10-32 nut. The 5/16" dia portion passes
>through the wall of a J-Box to a current shunt inside. My concern is
>for the connection between the alternator fuse and the 5/16" dia brass
>part. Over time, with no inspection, will the corrosion cause a
>localized overheating problem at that junction with continuous
>alternator current.
Exposed surfaces are going to corrode . . . the key is
how much PRESSURE you can maintain on the assembled
parts through which current flows. 10-32 thread on
brass should give you enough force. Put a torque spec
on the nut at about 75% of ultimate for the thread and
material. Use a Loctite product on nut and I think you'll
be fine.
Bob . . .
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Building an E-Buss, Main Buss, fuse block assembly |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 3/28/2003 12:28:49 PM Mountain Standard Time,
bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
>
> >
> >I would certainly think that a booster fuel pump would want a circuit
> >breaker - rather than a fuse - am I right on this one?
>
> why? if the fuse/wire feeding the pump is proper size, it will
> not nuisance trip. If the fuse/wire are proper size, the only
> reason for the circuit to open is for reasons that make in-fight
> reset risky if not hazardous.
>
>
Bob is clearly right on with this one. Ricky Nelson and several others were
KILLED by a flight crew person repeatedly resetting a circuit breaker on a
DC3 till the heater went up in smoke. !!!!!!!
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