Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:14 AM - Re: Hall Effect Ammeters (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 07:21 AM - Re: PM Alternator run ok without battery? (DHPHKH@aol.com)
3. 08:00 AM - #22 size pin removal tool...S-Tec installation (Ralph E. Capen)
4. 08:12 AM - Re: Ampers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 09:07 AM - Re: Could someone crimp a few D-Subs for me? (Sam Hoskins)
6. 09:36 AM - Re: Ampers (Cy Galley)
7. 09:58 AM - VOR Localizer mod to GPS Localizer (Charles Brame)
8. 11:03 AM - Re: LED post lights for instrument lighting? (Dan Branstrom)
9. 11:32 AM - Re: VOR Localizer mod to GPS Localizer (BobsV35B@aol.com)
10. 11:50 AM - Buffering loads on stick grip switches . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 02:39 PM - Re: JCWhitney heaters (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 02:44 PM - Re: Ampers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 03:04 PM - Re: VOR Localizer mod to GPS Localizer (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 03:32 PM - Re: JCWhitney heaters ()
15. 03:36 PM - How to dim multiple annunciator lights? (Kevin Horton)
16. 04:28 PM - Re: How to dim multiple annunciator lights? (Alex Peterson)
17. 05:19 PM - Re: How to dim multiple annunciator lights? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 05:47 PM - Alternator Recommendation - Subaru EA-81 (Don Honabach)
19. 07:30 PM - Re: How to dim multiple annunciator lights? (Kevin Horton)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Hall Effect Ammeters |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:08 PM 4/5/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charles Brame
><Charleyb@earthlink.net>
>
>Running b-leads from both the main and backup alternator through my
>VM-1000 Ammeter hall-sensor is exactly what I want to do. However, I
>haven't found a way to get both fat wires through the hole. Any suggestions?
How big are your alternators and how big is the hole
in the hall sensor?
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: PM Alternator run ok without battery? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
<<PM would be a better full time power supply that it is supposed to be able
to run okay when the battery dies>>
It will certainly generate without an external exciter current, but that
may not be the only issue.
I have several projects going. One is an acro biplane with very little
electrical requirement. M14 power (air start), so not powering anything
except some gauges and a radio. Cranking only powers a Slick Start box for
the M9-35M mags (not the same as the M9-F mags), and maybe an electric primer
solenoid.
Just got back from S&F, had a nice conversation with Bill Bainbridge
about the B&C SK10. Looks to be about the same physical size as the Deere
and Thermo King units I've seen, but set up to bolt directly to the M14
generator drive pad. Spec sheet says 3.9 lbs in the M14 configuration, 12.2
amps @13V @5000 alternator RPM. That's 2000 crank RPM with an M14, as the
accessory case has 2.5 speed-up gearing on the generator shaft. Probably
about 13 amps at full throttle.
Back to the "battery disconnected" question. Bill mentioned the need for
a "PM OV-filter" kit. The alternator comes with a regulator. I think he was
talking about B&C #504-1, but maybe not, you know how things are at a busy
show booth. Might be an S704-1, a OVM-14, and a capacitor. Bill said some
of the M14 acro guys have ignored battery maintenance (no high amp crank
load) and terminal corrosion has "disconnected" a few batteries. Apparently
that drives system voltage to high levels. I don't understand the physics
very well.
Bob, the Connection doesn't have much on PM alternators. Z-11 and Z-25
do show the battery always connected, given that S704-1 is energized. Any
chance of a short tutorial here? How does a PM regulator work, and why would
system voltage jump with the battery disconected?
Dan Horton
Message 3
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| Subject: | #22 size pin removal tool...S-Tec installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Hey listers,
Anyone out there have a #22 size pin removal/insertion tool? It would be smaller
than the tool that you would use on your UPSAT gear (I have one of those).
It is for the high density connectors (like S-Tec).
If so, where did you get it? I've already tried mouser/digikey/altex...all they
have is the bigger ones. I know that this is a fairly inexpensive tool...but
when you don't have one it's worth a fortune...!
I've already sent a zap to the connector manufacturer - but I thought I'd try you
guy/gals too!
Thanks for your assistance,
Ralph Capen
Wiring my 6A in Richardson, TX
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:15 PM 4/4/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Lamp" <tlamp@genesishcs.org>
>
>I was flying my new LongEZ last evening. (28 hours now)
>
>I noticed that my VM1000 amp gauge was fluxuating from 11 amps then 8,6,4,
>then back to 11 and so on. Cycling over about 1 min.
>
>The induction pick up is inline of the charging wire off of the alt. to
>the battery, 2 ga. wire since it also doubles as the power to the starter,
>both of which are of course out back.
>
>Does this sound normal.
>
>I run one Elec Ign. the usual VFR stuff and the strodes were on.
>
>Nip alt, B&C voltage reg (LR3), ship wiring as in Z-9.
No, it doesn't. Loads on the alternator
should be relatively steady in cruising flight.
If strobes are on, you might see a little
"kick" in displayed current each time
the strobes fire. Your observed current
values oscillate over a factor of 3:1 . . .
You cannot MAKE the display show this kind
of variation without turning lots of stuff
ON and then back OFF over the period of
of the observed excursions.
Just for grins, you might slip the wire
out of the center of the sensor for a few
flights and see what the ammeter shows.
We would expect it to be zero or very
close to it all the time.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Could someone crimp a few D-Subs for me? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins@globaleyes.net>
Tim, thanks for the offer, but someone already beat you to it. This list is
the best!
Regards,
Sam
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
TimRhod@aol.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Could someone crimp a few D-Subs for me?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: TimRhod@aol.com
I would be happy to do it for you. Let me know if you want me to. Tim
Rhodenbaugh timrhod@aol.com I,m in ohio
Message 6
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Might also be a bad diode in the alternator.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ampers
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 01:15 PM 4/4/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Lamp"
<tlamp@genesishcs.org>
> >
> >I was flying my new LongEZ last evening. (28 hours now)
> >
> >I noticed that my VM1000 amp gauge was fluxuating from 11 amps then
8,6,4,
> >then back to 11 and so on. Cycling over about 1 min.
> >
> >The induction pick up is inline of the charging wire off of the alt. to
> >the battery, 2 ga. wire since it also doubles as the power to the
starter,
> >both of which are of course out back.
> >
> >Does this sound normal.
> >
> >I run one Elec Ign. the usual VFR stuff and the strodes were on.
> >
> >Nip alt, B&C voltage reg (LR3), ship wiring as in Z-9.
>
>
> No, it doesn't. Loads on the alternator
> should be relatively steady in cruising flight.
> If strobes are on, you might see a little
> "kick" in displayed current each time
> the strobes fire. Your observed current
> values oscillate over a factor of 3:1 . . .
> You cannot MAKE the display show this kind
> of variation without turning lots of stuff
> ON and then back OFF over the period of
> of the observed excursions.
>
> Just for grins, you might slip the wire
> out of the center of the sensor for a few
> flights and see what the ammeter shows.
> We would expect it to be zero or very
> close to it all the time.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | VOR Localizer mod to GPS Localizer |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charles Brame <charleyb@earthlink.net>
I've been looking for an inexpensive GPS Localizer and have come to the
conclusion that they do not exist. Specifically, I'm looking for a 3
1/8" instrument to dedicate solely to the GPS localizer function.
There have been several relatively cheap VOR localizer instruments
available through E-Bay. Some are yellow tagged, most are not.
I have heard that VOR Localizer can be modified to work with a GPS.
Is such a mod possible? If so, what is involved and could a homebuilder
make the mod?
Does anyone have a recommendation for a shop to make such a mod?
How expensive is it to modify a non-working instrument to work with GPS?
Would a yellow tagged instrument be worth the extra money?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: LED post lights for instrument lighting? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Branstrom" <swedan@pcmagic.net>
For a possible emergency panel light, (or at least a great map reading light),
I've discovered a great folding LED light, made by Energizer that lights up an
area. It can be bought from Wal-Mart (Their SKU number is, I believe, 0968489)
for about 9 dollars plus tax & less batteries. I was told about it by another
pilot who is also a Boy Scout leader. The boys in his scout troop use them
all the time.
It is flat, with a swivel on one side so it opens up like a cell phone. It also
has a little hinge with holes in it that enables it to be hung on the wall.
(If I were to mount it in a plane, I'd use something more substantial). When
I'm travelling and sleeping in a place that doesn't have a light switch convenient
to the bed, I use it so I can read before I go to sleep without getting
out of bed to turn off the light. I put this light on my chest folded at an angle
to light the book. THERE ARE NO HOT SPOTS OF LIGHT. Powered by 4 AA batteries,
it uses 1 or 2 white LEDs at a time by a selectable switch. If one LED
is selected, the manufacturer claims 200 hours from the batteries. I have no
reason to doubt that figure. If 2 LEDs are selected, I would assume 100 hours
of use per set of batteries. I don't worry if I fall asleep with it on, because
it just keeps going, and going, and going. (Sorry, I couldn't resist).
The construction is interesting. Each LED is encased in a plastic tube that runs
in front of a reflector. The light from the LED is carried up the tube, then
reflected so that there is VERY even light.
Using 1 LED, I am able to read a large map (with all the colors) very easily.
I have not tested it much on night vision, but it is dim enough so I don't think
it affects it greatly. I think it would make an excellent light to illuminate
the whole instrument panel using the 2 LED setting, but I have not tested
it in a plane yet. If you install it in your plane, it can be used to read your
checklist & visually check control settings without turning on the master before
start-up.
The scouts use it to light their tents, and I've used it on walks at night. Even
though it is not very bright to illuminate the path far away, it sure lets
me see where I'm stepping and where the path leads for about 10-15 feet without
moving it around.
Wal-mart also sells an LED light that illuminates a spot using a single LED, made
by Brinkmann, about $13. It illuminates a spot. Wal-Mart sells it for under
$13, including batteries. The SKU number is 000933027. I use it like a pen
light - but it illuminates further because it uses a lens to focus the light.
It is also much larger in diameter, and waterproof. It possibly floats. It
would seem to be a good light for pre-flighting a plane in the dark and an emergency
light if you're downed.
Both of these lights have long illumination duration from batteries, no filaments
to break, and near white light. I really like them.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: VOR Localizer mod to GPS Localizer |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 4/6/2003 11:58:55 AM Central Standard Time,
charleyb@earthlink.net writes:
>
> I've been looking for an inexpensive GPS Localizer and have come to the
> conclusion that they do not exist. Specifically, I'm looking for a 3
> 1/8" instrument to dedicate solely to the GPS localizer function.
>
Good Morning Charlie,
I am sure you will get much more authoritative answers from some of the
electrically sophisticated on this list, but I would like to comment from an
old aviators view
point. I believe you are desirous of obtaining a low cost Course Deviation
Indicator (CDI) to use with your GPS. Is that not the case?
You will find that almost all CDI instruments are just galvanic meters which
read zero with the needle in the center. With a plus voltage applied, the
needle will swing one way and with a minus voltage applied they will swing
the other direction.
Almost all navigation sources have an output so that they can drive the CDI.
I think you will find the voltages used to drive the needles will be in the
order of plus or minus three to five volts DC.
What you need to know is the range of voltage that is output by your GPS on
the pins that drive the CDI. You can then choose a meter action that will
give you what you want, Some of those old W.W.II meters had very fine and
reliable actions.
You should be able to find one that will do what you want at very low cost.
It makes absolutely no difference whether the data comes from a VOR,
Localizer or GPS. The needle just responds to the voltage applied
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Message 10
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| Subject: | Buffering loads on stick grip switches . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>Comments/Questions: Hello Bob....I've been trying to find an alternative
>to the very expensive Stick grips available.
>
>I bought a gaming stick called "Seitek" and it looks promising. I pulled
>it apart and isolated the stick from the base unit. The stick has several
>small microswitches and a "coolie hat" switch. It looks very space-age!
>
>I don't kid myself that these small devices could switch my high current
>items like trim motors, but perhaps with the correct relays installed....?
>
>Hence my question; What is a good relay selection to install between these
>(milliamp?) switches and the actuator to do the heavy lifting. Functions
>I'd want to switch are;
>
>1) PPT (perhaps the small microswitch is enough alone for this function)
Probably so.
>2) 4-way trim
>3) Air brake up and down
I've uploaded a set of exemplar drawings that
show how to control permanent magnet motors with
relays at http://216.55.140.222/temp/PM_Motor_Relays.pdf
The common theme throughout these drawings are the pair
of single pole, double throw relays that control motor power.
Note that in the relaxed state, the normally closed contacts
put a dead short across the motor. This is a very useful
technique for reducing coasting of the motor after power
is removed. Energizing one relay or the other puts (+)
power on alternate leads of the motor to control direction.
Obviously, the relay's contacts must be sufficiently
rated for satisfactory service life depending on the
motor load. MAC servos draw perhaps 200 mA . . . ANY
relay will handle this load. Our S704-1 relays will
handle up to 30A . . . and their package/terminal
configuration makes them attractive for installation
and wiring irrespective of how much you load
the contacts.
Hope this helps.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: JCWhitney heaters |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:31 PM 4/5/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
>While cruising the JC Whitney site I also noticed some small 12volt
>heaters/defrosters. I think these would work perfect for most airplanes
>especially for defrosting. This would save the hassles of doing a heater
>muff and somewhat complicated duct work.
>
>Anyone try these? Any thoughts?
The heat output of almost any electric heater has the
potential for being a disappointment. Consider that you
MIGHT have as much as 20 . . . naw, let's say 30 amps
of left-over alternator output just looking for a good
task to do. 30A at 14V works out to 420 watts or about
1400 BTU per hour.
Hot liquid aux heaters for cars tend to be rated in the
10,000 to 30,000 BTU/hour heating capacity . . and
most cars are better insulated and tighter with respect
cabin heat lost to the outside than an airplane.
I had an EZ builder go for a 28V/60A system in his airplane
so that he could run two 20A heaters for a total of 1120
watts and 3800 BTU. He reported that he could choose
between either warm toes or keeping the canopy defrosted
but not both. He remarked later that his daughter's
hair dryer put out more snort than his cabin heaters.
The heat you can pick off an exhaust muff will be much
more than you can practically generate electrically.
The garden variety, plug in the wall heaters you find
in hardware stores are 1500W/5000BTU devices. I've
used these to defrost and pre-warm a car sitting in
the driveway . . . takes about 30 min on a really
cold morning with the car sitting still . . . move
a 150 MPH slipstream over the car at local ambient
temps, an the usefulness of the 1500W heater becomes
problematical.
I wouldn't discourage anyone from trying it but be
aware of the numbers and the fact that your available
energy from most alternators is going to be very
limited.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:37 AM 4/6/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>Might also be a bad diode in the alternator.
I wouldn't expect the wandering display. Once the
battery is charged, loads on the alternator are
same as system loads. A diode out will cripple an
alternator . . . limit its max output current
but this is a fixed condition . . .
I'm assuming that his bus voltage was constant
during the observed oscillation . . . meaning that
whatever was going on, the alternator/regulator
combination was meeting requirements for ship's
loads . . . this means that ship's loads were
wandering or the ammeter's electronics were
hosed.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: VOR Localizer mod to GPS Localizer |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:58 AM 4/6/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charles Brame
><charleyb@earthlink.net>
>
>I've been looking for an inexpensive GPS Localizer and have come to the
>conclusion that they do not exist. Specifically, I'm looking for a 3
>1/8" instrument to dedicate solely to the GPS localizer function.
>
>There have been several relatively cheap VOR localizer instruments
>available through E-Bay. Some are yellow tagged, most are not.
>
> I have heard that VOR Localizer can be modified to work with a GPS.
>Is such a mod possible? If so, what is involved and could a homebuilder
>make the mod?
> Does anyone have a recommendation for a shop to make such a mod?
> How expensive is it to modify a non-working instrument to work with GPS?
> Would a yellow tagged instrument be worth the extra money?
The CDI needle in a VOR/LOC/CDI instrument is simply a
meter that reads, as I recall, about 10 microamps
per dot of deviation. This has been the "standard"
instrument for displaying the output of the VOR/LOC
receiver. IF your GPS receiver is one of the TSO'd
critters, then it has outputs intended to interface
with the "standard" OBS/VOR/LOC instrument head.
This feature will let you fly your year 2003 GPS
as if it were a year 1960 VOR/LOC receiver . . .
what a concept.
If you have the TSO'd receiver, and you want to fly
any kind of IFR, then you'll need the analog display.
This might be a display shared with the VOR/LOC
receiver wherein you can switch the instrument between
the two receivers with an 18 pole, two position
switch (relay deck discussed here on the list about
a year ago).
If it's NOT a TSO'd receiver, then your output is
likely limited to the NMEA-0183 serial data output.
You can drive the CDI of an instrument with aid
of a converter like that offer by
http://www.porcine.com
in the form of their smart coupler.
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: JCWhitney heaters |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Thanks Bob for the reply. Just what this list is for!! I'll go the
conventional route.
Darwin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: JCWhitney heaters
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 05:31 PM 4/5/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> >
> >While cruising the JC Whitney site I also noticed some small 12volt
> >heaters/defrosters. I think these would work perfect for most airplanes
> >especially for defrosting. This would save the hassles of doing a heater
> >muff and somewhat complicated duct work.
> >
> >Anyone try these? Any thoughts?
>
> The heat output of almost any electric heater has the
> potential for being a disappointment. Consider that you
> MIGHT have as much as 20 . . . naw, let's say 30 amps
> of left-over alternator output just looking for a good
> task to do. 30A at 14V works out to 420 watts or about
> 1400 BTU per hour.
>
> Hot liquid aux heaters for cars tend to be rated in the
> 10,000 to 30,000 BTU/hour heating capacity . . and
> most cars are better insulated and tighter with respect
> cabin heat lost to the outside than an airplane.
>
> I had an EZ builder go for a 28V/60A system in his airplane
> so that he could run two 20A heaters for a total of 1120
> watts and 3800 BTU. He reported that he could choose
> between either warm toes or keeping the canopy defrosted
> but not both. He remarked later that his daughter's
> hair dryer put out more snort than his cabin heaters.
>
> The heat you can pick off an exhaust muff will be much
> more than you can practically generate electrically.
>
> The garden variety, plug in the wall heaters you find
> in hardware stores are 1500W/5000BTU devices. I've
> used these to defrost and pre-warm a car sitting in
> the driveway . . . takes about 30 min on a really
> cold morning with the car sitting still . . . move
> a 150 MPH slipstream over the car at local ambient
> temps, an the usefulness of the 1500W heater becomes
> problematical.
>
> I wouldn't discourage anyone from trying it but be
> aware of the numbers and the fact that your available
> energy from most alternators is going to be very
> limited.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | How to dim multiple annunciator lights? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
I've started pondering how to control the intensity of several
annunciator lights, but I haven't come up with a solution that I like
yet. I figure I can't be the first builder with this problem, so
there must be several good ideas I haven't thought of yet.
I've got four LED annunciators that I need to deal with. All will be
unlit most of the time, but they could be illuminated for long
periods if they are annunciating a system failure. All of them are
driven by a 12V signal when they are in the ON state. I.e 12V = ON,
0V = OFF.
I had planned on running the ground return for all of them through a
rotary potentiometer, but now that I start looking, I can't find a
potentiometer that controls four outputs. Are there any reasonably
priced, small, single-turn potentiometers that control four outputs?
I haven't figured out how many watts I need to deal with yet, so this
idea might require too big a potentiometer.
My next idea was to power the annunciators with a small solid state
dimmer module, and to use relays to control the ground return from
each annunciator. But that requires a relay for each annunciator, so
I'm not happy about the complexity. Is there a cheap, reliable and
easy to install solid state solution I can use instead of relays?
The only simple solution I've thought of is to run the ground returns
for all annunciators through a single potentiometer. The intensity
will vary depending on how many annunciators are lit, but the vast
majority of cases will only have one lit at a time, so this might be
workable. Are there pitfalls to this idea that I haven't thought of?
What other solutions are there?
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 16
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| Subject: | How to dim multiple annunciator lights? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Kevin, why do you want to dim the annunciators? Maybe the simplest
solution is to keep a post-it note on board for the once every ten years
when an annunciator comes on at night and it bothers you. I used to do
that to cover the non-dimming high beam indicator on a car I had years
ago (the darn thing was amazingly bright, I could see the blue light on
my face).
If you still want to dim them, since they are LED's, they have minuscule
power. Hence, a small pot could be used on each of them. Get a little
3K board mount pot, hook it up and try it. You could hook an ammeter in
series, just to check that the power can be handled (P=VI).
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 291 hours
www.rvforum.org
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> I've started pondering how to control the intensity of several
> annunciator lights, but I haven't come up with a solution that I like
> yet. I figure I can't be the first builder with this problem, so
> there must be several good ideas I haven't thought of yet.
>
> I've got four LED annunciators that I need to deal with. All will be
> unlit most of the time, but they could be illuminated for long
> periods if they are annunciating a system failure. All of them are
> driven by a 12V signal when they are in the ON state. I.e 12V = ON,
> 0V = OFF.
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: How to dim multiple annunciator lights? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:30 PM 4/6/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>
>I've started pondering how to control the intensity of several
>annunciator lights, but I haven't come up with a solution that I like
>yet. I figure I can't be the first builder with this problem, so
>there must be several good ideas I haven't thought of yet.
>
>I've got four LED annunciators that I need to deal with. All will be
>unlit most of the time, but they could be illuminated for long
>periods if they are annunciating a system failure. All of them are
>driven by a 12V signal when they are in the ON state. I.e 12V = ON,
>0V = OFF.
Okay, this means that they all share a common ground. To apply
equal dimming to the entire array, select a zener diode (1-watt
1N4700 series is fine) that provides the right voltage drop
for the dim position. Put this zener in series with the ground
for all lamps. Put a bright/dim toggle switch in parallel with
the zener. Close the switch for max-bright operation, open
for dimmmed operation.
See: http://216.55.140.222/temp/annun_dim.gif
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Alternator Recommendation - Subaru EA-81 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
After reading a BK's AeroElectric and ended up with a dead alternator,
I'm looking to replace the alternator included with my Subaru EA-81 from
Stratus with one that works with an external voltage regulator. Has
anybody had any good experience with any particular brand, etc.?
Thanks!
Don Honabach
Tempe, AZ - Zodiac 601HDS
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: How to dim multiple annunciator lights? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>At 06:30 PM 4/6/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>>
>>I've started pondering how to control the intensity of several
>>annunciator lights, but I haven't come up with a solution that I like
>>yet. I figure I can't be the first builder with this problem, so
>>there must be several good ideas I haven't thought of yet.
>>
>>I've got four LED annunciators that I need to deal with. All will be
>>unlit most of the time, but they could be illuminated for long
>>periods if they are annunciating a system failure. All of them are
>>driven by a 12V signal when they are in the ON state. I.e 12V = ON,
>>0V = OFF.
>
> Okay, this means that they all share a common ground. To apply
> equal dimming to the entire array, select a zener diode (1-watt
> 1N4700 series is fine) that provides the right voltage drop
> for the dim position. Put this zener in series with the ground
> for all lamps. Put a bright/dim toggle switch in parallel with
> the zener. Close the switch for max-bright operation, open
> for dimmmed operation.
>
> See: http://216.55.140.222/temp/annun_dim.gif
>
> Bob . . .
>
Thanks for the help Bob. This will work, once I figure out what
value zener I need. I'll try using one of the dimming modules I
bought from B&C, and temporarily hook it up to one of the LEDs to
figure out how much voltage it takes to get the intensity I want in
the dim position.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
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