Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:36 AM - Re: Howto for units using less then 12V ()
2. 07:10 AM - Instrument Panel Labels - What do you need??? (Julia)
3. 07:18 AM - Re: Instrument Panel Labels - What do you need??? (John Slade)
4. 07:51 AM - Re: Instrument Panel Labels - What do you need??? (CozyGirrrl@aol.com)
5. 09:19 AM - Voltage Regulator- Use internal? (Mark Phillips)
6. 09:27 AM - Re: Instrument Panel Labels - What do you need??? (I-Blackler, Wayne R)
7. 09:27 AM - Re: howto for units using less then 12V (Werner Schneider)
8. 11:55 AM - Re: Approach-Systems Avionics (Stucklen, Frederic IFC)
9. 12:43 PM - Re: Battery Box (Phil Birkelbach)
10. 12:53 PM - Re: Re: Approach-Systems Avionics (Vincent Welch)
11. 01:59 PM - Tyco EV200 power relay needs no diode ? (Gilles.Thesee)
12. 02:31 PM - Re: Alternator Recommendation - Subaru EA-81 (Jim and Lucy)
13. 03:21 PM - Glass Cockpit (Holger Stephan)
14. 05:16 PM - Re: Tyco EV200 power relay needs no diode ? (David Swartzendruber)
15. 07:04 PM - Re: Alternator Recommendation - Subaru EA-81 (Michel Therrien)
16. 07:08 PM - Re: Glass Cockpit (David Carter)
17. 08:20 PM - Cabin Heat (BAKEROCB@aol.com)
18. 08:34 PM - Delta Alternator - Stratus/Subaru EA 81 (Don Honabach)
19. 08:50 PM - Re: Cabin Heat (LRE2@aol.com)
20. 10:12 PM - Re: Voltage Regulator- Use internal? (Paul Messinger)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: Howto for units using less then 12V |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <max.johansson@nokia.com>
Werner, if you already have a spike filter you probably can
be using any standard three pin regulator (like a 7806
for 6V) after it for your gadgets. Nomally they die when
they experience a 40V spike. Select a device having just
one mounting hole and screw it directly to the frame
for heatsinking, no insulation or ground lead is needed.
Add two small 0.01 uF capacitors from the input and
output terminals to ground to keep the regulator stable.
If you really need some 5V, just connect a diode in
series from the 6V output in order to get an extra
5.2 volt supply. Total output available is 1 amp.
And if you just need a 5V output, use a 7805 regulator.
regards, Max - flying C42 in Helsinki
> <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: howto for units using less then 12V
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
>
> Dear all,
>
> I'm building several "handheld" gadgets in my plane, I'm using Bob's pwr
> filter, to protect this gadgets from power spikes (if they realy happen).
> Now several of them are using only 5V, or 6V. What is the best way to
> transform the board-voltage of 12-14V down to a stabilised 5 to 6V, can I
> integrate such thing into the pwr filter design?.
>
> Many thanks for your help, Werner
Message 2
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| Subject: | Instrument Panel Labels - What do you need??? |
RV7 Matronics List <rv7-list@matronics.com>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
Jim Irwin - Pres. and CEO of Aircraft Spruce has asked me to assemble a list of
all the labels homebuilders might want for their airplane instrument panels.
I purchased one of their sheets and it was lacking many - such as "low oil pressure"
which you might put under a panel light - and "low fuel pressure", Low Oil
Pressure
Jim said this list has not been updated for a long time and wanted my input - so
I ask you all to help.
what do you want. We all need them and the sheet is only like $3.50 - but they
are nice labels.
Please send your requests to me directly at wings97302@yahoo.com & in the subject
put "Instrument labels"
thanks very much for your help
---------------------------------
Message 3
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| Subject: | Instrument Panel Labels - What do you need??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net>
> Jim Irwin - Pres. and CEO of Aircraft Spruce has asked me to
> assemble a list of all the labels homebuilders might want for
> their airplane instrument panels.
How about - "This airplane built exclusively with parts from Wicks Aircraft"
or
"Spruce service and support sucks" in 12 inch letters. I'll take one of each
for my wings.
John Slade
Message 4
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| Subject: | Instrument Panel Labels - What do you need??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CozyGirrrl@aol.com
How about - "This airplane built exclusively with parts from Wicks Aircraft"
or
"Spruce service and support sucks" in 12 inch letters. I'll take one of each
for my=A0 wings.
John Slade
...Uh John, please don't hold back, Chrissi
Message 5
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| Subject: | Voltage Regulator- Use internal? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Searching for a "generic" voltage regulator- is this thing equivalent to
the "mythical" VR166?
Search for VR301 at:
http://www.partsamerica.com/default.asp?BypassRedirect=True
....or try this direct link, but it's a long one and may require the
cut/paste routine:
http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=SHOP&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&QueryID=677841&QueryCounter=1&MfrCode=GPS&MfrPartNumber=VR301
While hunting, it seems that none of the major suppliers in my area
(Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA) have anything listed as "VR166" but
there are a lot (such as above) that appear to be similar. Digging in
the archives revealed some others such as the VR749 which Bob says
should be fine.
Then I ran across this from one of Bobs' replies:
http://www.globemotorists.com/TVI%20Products/tvi_voltage_regulators.htm
The listing there shows a bunch of the internal/replaceable regs
installed inside the alternator- Has anyone used one of these
successfully, and if so, how do you determine which terminal is sense &
which is field? Any problems using them? They seem to offer a huge
advantage is weight/space saving, and cost half or less than the bigger
"boxes".
Mark Phillips
Message 6
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| Subject: | Instrument Panel Labels - What do you need??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "I-Blackler, Wayne R" <wayne.blackler@boeing.com>
G'Day All,
Given current electrical systems are now employing dual batteries and dual alternators,
please consider doubling up on a few labels rather than having to buy
a second sheet..
Perhaps:
2 x MAIN
2 x AUX
1 x MAIN MASTER
1 x AUX MASTER
2 x LOW VOLTS WARN
2 x CROSSFEED, [X-FEED]
1 x L IGN
1 x R IGN
1 x STARTER
1 x ENGAGED
1 X MAIN FLD
1 X AUX FLD
30 X ON
30 X OFF
Cheers,
Wayne Blackler
IO-360 Long EZ
Seattle, WA
-----Original Message-----
From: Julia [mailto:wings97302@yahoo.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Instrument Panel Labels - What do you
need???
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
Jim Irwin - Pres. and CEO of Aircraft Spruce has asked me to assemble a list of
all the labels homebuilders might want for their airplane instrument panels.
I purchased one of their sheets and it was lacking many - such as "low oil pressure"
which you might put under a panel light - and "low fuel pressure", Low Oil
Pressure
Jim said this list has not been updated for a long time and wanted my input - so
I ask you all to help.
what do you want. We all need them and the sheet is only like $3.50 - but they
are nice labels.
Please send your requests to me directly at wings97302@yahoo.com & in the subject
put "Instrument labels"
thanks very much for your help
---------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: howto for units using less then 12V |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
Hello Charlie,
many thanks, exactly the anwser I was looking for!
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie & Tupper England" <cengland@netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: howto for units using less then 12V
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
>
> Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider"
<wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
> >
> >Dear all,
> >
> >I'm building several "handheld" gadgets in my plane, I'm using Bob's pwr
> >filter, to protect this gadgets from power spikes (if they realy happen).
> >Now several of them are using only 5V, or 6V. What is the best way to
> >transform the board-voltage of 12-14V down to a stabilised 5 to 6V, can I
> >integrate such thing into the pwr filter design?.
> >
> >Many thanks for your help
> >
> >Werner
> >
> The simplest way is to use a 3-terminal linear regulator preset for the
> desired voltage.
>
> Try a Google search on 'LM7805 regulator'. The '5' indicates a 5 volt
> regulator.
>
> http://www.iguanalabs.com/7805kit.htm
>
> shows a good photo of the device. Remember that rated current requires a
> heat sink.
>
> Poke around the various sites hit by the Google search to get a feel for
> what you need to do.
> Most gadgets designed for 6 volts will work fine using a 5 volt regulator.
>
> Charlie
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: Approach-Systems Avionics |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Gary,
First off, if your plane has 4-5 (or more) unwanted sets of wiring
under the panel, somebody hasn't been doing your repairs properly. Quite
typical for the inexpensive Spam Can avionics shops. In my opinion, that's
completely unacceptable.
What I want out of my experimental aircraft implementation is,
1)full knowledge of what is in my panel wiring, 2)the flexibility to modify
it myself, and 3)to keep the costs down to a minimum.
Learning to wire your own avionics is not that difficult,
especially if you get help from somebody else that has already done it, or
does it for a living. That person can help you draw the schematics and
assure the accuracy of the wiring.
If you feel you're not capable of doing all the wiring, or don't
have the proper tools, have a shop just wire up the radio stack, with all
the outside-the-stack wires long enough for you to complete the hookup. That
approach is still less expensive than the Approach-Systems box..... And if
your knowledgeable in how it was done the first time, upgrades are not that
big a deal....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV Reserved
RV-6A N925RV 2008 Hrs of fun!
In a message dated 04/09/03 05:23:08 AM,
writes:
> Pick out your dream stack, then work with someone with
experienced to
> develop the schematics. Then wire that stack on the bench. If you
don't
> have the proper tools, see if you can borrow them. If that's not
possible,
> then contract out to have just the stack wired. It's then easy for
you to
> complete the installation into your aircraft.
>
How is this different from contracting Approach Systems to
'Pre-Wire" the
avionics stack? If you change it down the road (which is very
unlikely in
the near term, say 10-15 years), have Approach Systems mod the
interconnections.
Certainly is a lot simplier than having 4 or 5 unwanted sets of
wiring under
your panel which NO-One can follow.
There is no way to describe what it's like to try and sort out an
avionics
gremlin only to find there are 8 (EIGHT) sets of com installations,
complete
still
wrapped so tight in a wire bundle that you can't move anything
without taking
it all apart and starting over.
Gary
3 weeks and counting into fixing the wiring in an AA1C
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
Can't imagine why it wouldn't work.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Battery Box
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard"
<billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
>
> I have a question about the use of a battery box with a sealed lead acid
battery (RG Battery). I know that one is not really required with this type
of battery, but is any harm likely if one is used?
>
> I built a fiberglass battery box some years ago, when I assumed that I
would be using a wet battery. The battery box mounts under the baggage
compartment floor, and the floor actually serves as the lid on the box. Do I
need to re-design the battery installation, or will what I have likely work?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> BillB
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Approach-Systems Avionics |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Fred,
I agree with everything you have said in your posts on this subject. But,
how do you handle the warranty issues? Garmin and others seem to indicate
that the warranty is void if the harness is not made by an avionics shop.
I have been designing and wiring process control instrumentation for the
last twenty years and have no doubt that I can produce my own harness, but
the warranty is a real concern.
Vince
>From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>To: "'Aeroelectric List'" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE: Approach-Systems Avionics
>Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 14:55:23 -0400
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC"
><Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
>
> Gary,
>
> First off, if your plane has 4-5 (or more) unwanted sets of
>wiring
>under the panel, somebody hasn't been doing your repairs properly. Quite
>typical for the inexpensive Spam Can avionics shops. In my opinion, that's
>completely unacceptable.
> What I want out of my experimental aircraft implementation is,
>1)full knowledge of what is in my panel wiring, 2)the flexibility to modify
>it myself, and 3)to keep the costs down to a minimum.
> Learning to wire your own avionics is not that difficult,
>especially if you get help from somebody else that has already done it, or
>does it for a living. That person can help you draw the schematics and
>assure the accuracy of the wiring.
> If you feel you're not capable of doing all the wiring, or don't
>have the proper tools, have a shop just wire up the radio stack, with all
>the outside-the-stack wires long enough for you to complete the hookup.
>That
>approach is still less expensive than the Approach-Systems box..... And if
>your knowledgeable in how it was done the first time, upgrades are not that
>big a deal....
>
>Fred Stucklen
>RV-6A N926RV Reserved
>RV-6A N925RV 2008 Hrs of fun!
>
>
> In a message dated 04/09/03 05:23:08 AM,
> writes:
>
> > Pick out your dream stack, then work with someone with
>experienced to
> > develop the schematics. Then wire that stack on the bench. If
>you
>don't
> > have the proper tools, see if you can borrow them. If that's not
>possible,
> > then contract out to have just the stack wired. It's then easy
>for
>you to
> > complete the installation into your aircraft.
> >
> How is this different from contracting Approach Systems to
>'Pre-Wire" the
> avionics stack? If you change it down the road (which is very
>unlikely in
> the near term, say 10-15 years), have Approach Systems mod the
> interconnections.
>
> Certainly is a lot simplier than having 4 or 5 unwanted sets of
>wiring under
> your panel which NO-One can follow.
>
> There is no way to describe what it's like to try and sort out an
>avionics
> gremlin only to find there are 8 (EIGHT) sets of com
>installations,
>complete
>still
> wrapped so tight in a wire bundle that you can't move anything
>without taking
> it all apart and starting over.
>
> Gary
> 3 weeks and counting into fixing the wiring in an AA1C
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Tyco EV200 power relay needs no diode ? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
> In my Rotax 912S electric power system, I'd like to replace the battery
relay by a Tyco EV200 power relay shown in
http://www.ciitech.com/doc_generator.asp?doc_id=1280 . Reason: it has a hold
power consumption of only 1.7 W at 12 VDC. Do you see any reason for not
using it in an OBAM Europa?
Hi Bob and all,
I'm having a try at those EV200 contactors. In the spec sheet at CII
Technologies they say
"No coil back EMF- Built-in coil economizer limits back EMF to zero volts"
Am I right in understanding an external diode is not necessary ?
Thanks
Gilles
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Recommendation - Subaru EA-81 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim and Lucy <jpollard@mnsi.net>
At 05:47 PM 4/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>
>After reading a BK's AeroElectric and ended up with a dead alternator,
>I'm looking to replace the alternator included with my Subaru EA-81 from
>Stratus with one that works with an external voltage regulator. Has
>anybody had any good experience with any particular brand, etc.?
>
>Thanks!
>Don Honabach
>Tempe, AZ - Zodiac 601HDS
If your alternator happens to be the same as the stock Subaru
you can get one for a 1982 or older subaru. It is the same
exact dimentions as the newer style. This alternator has an
external regulator and fits all the stock brackets. However
stratus may uses a smaller alternator to save some weight.
I am not sure. Got mine on ebay. There was another there
a few days ago from the same seller. I had mine tested
and it put out 40 amps. The alternator guy recomended
locktiting the through bolts that hold the alternator together
to safeguard against the prop vibration. He was also shocked
at what the price I paid was (cheap).
check Item # 2410113207
on ebay for a picture
Jim Pollard
ch601hds
ea81
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Holger Stephan <holger@selover.net>
Hi all,
We are currently developing a non-commercial glass cockpit, based on an
embedded real-time OS (currently real-time Linux) computer. The software
is under way, but we're struggling with the sensors. We would like to
use a CAN bus. While we found enough high priced solutions, we didn't
find enough information to build it with lower priced components that
are also readily available.
Another area where we could use some references is air data computers.
Not long ago someone here in this group said he was working on a
solution. We would like to learn more about this project. Maybe we can
throw something together.
Thanks
Holger
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Tyco EV200 power relay needs no diode ? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
That's right. The two wires that you hook up to are not the two ends of the
coil. There is a small printed circuit board on the side of the relay doing
some magic between the control wires, and the actual relay coil.
Dave in Wichita
>
> > In my Rotax 912S electric power system, I'd like to replace the battery
> relay by a Tyco EV200 power relay shown in
> http://www.ciitech.com/doc_generator.asp?doc_id=1280 . Reason: it has a
hold
> power consumption of only 1.7 W at 12 VDC. Do you see any reason for not
> using it in an OBAM Europa?
>
>
> Hi Bob and all,
>
> I'm having a try at those EV200 contactors. In the spec sheet at CII
> Technologies they say
> "No coil back EMF- Built-in coil economizer limits back EMF to zero volts"
> Am I right in understanding an external diode is not necessary ?
>
> Thanks
>
> Gilles
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Recommendation - Subaru EA-81 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
I recently bought a Pontiac Firefly 1988 alternator
that I got rebuilt and tested to 55 amps. It is a
Nippodenso alternator with internal regulator, but I
suppose it could be modified.
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don
> Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
> >
> >After reading a BK's AeroElectric and ended up with
> a dead alternator,
> >I'm looking to replace the alternator included with
> my Subaru EA-81 from
> >Stratus with one that works with an external
> voltage regulator. Has
> >anybody had any good experience with any particular
> brand, etc.?
> >
> >Thanks!
> >Don Honabach
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://tax.yahoo.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Glass Cockpit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I used to be an A-7 pilot and Avionics Officer, and also attended quarterly
F-16 software meetings in the 1980s.
Are you planning to use a "Mux Bus" (multiplexor bus) (like F-16) or hard
wire each sensor to the computer (like A-7)?
I've almost forgotten the two different types of Mux buses: Original F-16
mux bus had dedicated data lines from each sensor, hard wired into the mux
bus harness - hard to modify because it took a hardware mod/expansion for
each thing you later wanted to add.
The later, better, preferred, at that time, was called something else
(star? ring?) - you could add a new sensor which had its own mux interface
device without any other physical wiring harness mods - the new device
contained the "new" bus interface stuff. Essentially, it was a "software
bus" instead of a "hard wired bus".
What is a CAN bus?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Holger Stephan" <holger@selover.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Glass Cockpit
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Holger Stephan
<holger@selover.net>
>
> Hi all,
>
> We are currently developing a non-commercial glass cockpit, based on an
> embedded real-time OS (currently real-time Linux) computer. The software
> is under way, but we're struggling with the sensors. We would like to
> use a CAN bus. While we found enough high priced solutions, we didn't
> find enough information to build it with lower priced components that
> are also readily available.
>
> Another area where we could use some references is air data computers.
> Not long ago someone here in this group said he was working on a
> solution. We would like to learn more about this project. Maybe we can
> throw something together.
>
> Thanks
>
> Holger
>
>
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
Darwin N. Barrie previously wrote << From: <ktlkrn@cox.net> Subject:
JCWhitney heaters Date: Apr 05, 2003. While cruising the JC Whitney site I
also noticed some small 12volt heaters/defrosters. I think these would work
perfect for most airplanes
especially for defrosting. This would save the hassles of doing a heater
muff and somewhat complicated duct work.Anyone try these? Any thoughts?
Darwin N. Barrie>>
4/10/2003
Hello Darwin, For personal warmth in the cockpit you might want to consider
heated clothing. Check out <<www.gerbing.com>> or 800-646-5916.
The motorcycle types use this gear and can ride around exposed to the wind
blast in the winter time. Uses very little wattage.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
Message 18
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| Subject: | Delta Alternator - Stratus/Subaru EA 81 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Hey Guys,
In regard to an earlier post where I thought my alternator was dead, I
got a reply back from Stratus that indicates that the suggested wiring
they provided with the engine will/may not work properly.
In short, the alternator has a built-in regulator and has 4 connection
points of concern. The first is a sizeable positive cable that is feed
back into the electrical system/battery 12V positive side. The ground is
implied via the crankcase. There are then 2 other connectors. The first
is labeled 'L' and is meant to be connected to a normal style 'idiot'
light for if the alternator fails and to provide a load for reasons
unknown (the manual is very specific though in noting that if the light
isn't hooked up, the alternator will fail). The final connector is
labeled '+' and in the original wiring diagram, Stratus suggests hooking
this wiring up the so that it is supplied with 12V positive when the
engine starter is engaged.
My concern is that Stratus has sent an e-mail that indicates that this
last connector (i.e. '+') needs to be re-wired to a constant 12V source
to ensure that the alternator kicks in and starts the major electron
parade. Since I haven't been able to fully understand the alternator and
how everything works (still a black box for me), I was worried that
having a constant 12V source to the alternator when the engine isn't
running might be a bad thing, and hooking up an only active 12V that is
only active when the engine is running would most likely violate my KIS
design principles.
I went ahead and included Stratus' comments below. Any
comments/suggestions are appreciated and if this is a really basic
questions, my apologies in advance :)
Thanks!
Don Honabach
Tempe, AZ - 601HDS
---- Stratus' Email ----
....the one on the right is the ign. for ignition or 12 volts
with the key on. if that wire comes from the solynoid starter wire a
problem occures if the eng. starts right up the alternater does
not have voltage long enough to excite and
start charging. so it needs to come from a costant 12v source.
=09
hope that helps Mykal,Stratus.
-------------------------------
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: LRE2@aol.com
I purchased the nifty J.C.Whitney 12V heater/defroster some time back. I
found that it takes 20 min to defrost the light skim of windshield frost that
we occasionally get here in Portland Or. If you think you want one, I'll
sell you mine, Cheap!. LRE
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator- Use internal? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@tenforward.com>
VR-166 is a Standard "brand" regulator and comes in regular and premium
(higher quality parts) Standard is VR-166 and HQ is VR-166X.
For ford alternators on AMC 76-78, Fords 70-92, and Jeep 76-77.
If no local independent dealer has the STandard line and or cannot order for
you I suspect NAPA can cross it to their system if you say "Its a Standard
part number".
NOTE My NAPA book lists a VR 166 ( note the NAPA # does not have the "-" in
the part #) and that does not look like the right part.
Standard is a widely stocked Brand by independents
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Voltage Regulator- Use internal?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Searching for a "generic" voltage regulator- is this thing equivalent to
> the "mythical" VR166?
>
> Search for VR301 at:
> http://www.partsamerica.com/default.asp?BypassRedirect=True
>
> ....or try this direct link, but it's a long one and may require the
> cut/paste routine:
>
>
http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=SHOP&SourcePage=SEARC
HRESULTS&QueryID=677841&QueryCounter=1&MfrCode=GPS&MfrPartNumber=VR301
>
> While hunting, it seems that none of the major suppliers in my area
> (Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA) have anything listed as "VR166" but
> there are a lot (such as above) that appear to be similar. Digging in
> the archives revealed some others such as the VR749 which Bob says
> should be fine.
>
> Then I ran across this from one of Bobs' replies:
> http://www.globemotorists.com/TVI%20Products/tvi_voltage_regulators.htm
>
> The listing there shows a bunch of the internal/replaceable regs
> installed inside the alternator- Has anyone used one of these
> successfully, and if so, how do you determine which terminal is sense &
> which is field? Any problems using them? They seem to offer a huge
> advantage is weight/space saving, and cost half or less than the bigger
> "boxes".
>
> Mark Phillips
>
>
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