Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:32 AM - Now it works (William Bernard)
2. 06:35 AM - Re: dual power and ground wires (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:54 AM - Re: TruTrak Autopilot Install (Phil Birkelbach)
4. 06:59 AM - BNC/TNC clamp and solder style installation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:12 AM - Outer jacket stripping of shielded wire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:45 AM - LED Overvoltage and color (richard@riley.net)
7. 08:44 AM - Re: Re: E.I. instruments need pampering? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:49 AM - Re: Dual E.I. bus configuration (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 09:09 AM - Re: LED Overvoltage and color (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 10:31 AM - TruTrak Follow-up Question (Randy Pflanzer)
11. 01:13 PM - Rotax alternator ouput concern (Gilles.Thesee)
12. 01:40 PM - Re: Rotax alternator ouput concern (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 01:52 PM - Re: TruTrak Follow-up Question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 02:36 PM - Re: Re: Rotax alternator ouput concern (Gilles.Thesee)
15. 06:08 PM - Nav/Strobe lights ()
16. 08:20 PM - Of line until Monday (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 08:54 PM - Re: Nav/Strobe lights (Duncan McBride)
18. 10:46 PM - Re: Nav/Strobe lights (richard@riley.net)
19. 11:17 PM - Re: LED Overvoltage and color (Jerzy Krasinski)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
Thanks, in alphabetical order to Bob, Giles and Scott! The master switch now works
as advertised. All I had to do was switch the wires.
Thanks again.
Bill
Message 2
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| Subject: | dual power and ground wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:00 PM 4/14/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net>
>
> > By this rationale, power per pin is the important factor not wire size.
>I see some sense in this argument, except that the instructions also have me
>jumper ing four power pins together. (and 4 grounds) They say I can use the
>same breaker, but that two pairs of 18awg should be run to the breaker.
Hmmm . . . I've not installed a radio that uses the Amp-Leaf card
edge connectors in many years. I'd forgotten that some products
take main power and ground off etched circuit card edge fingers.
These pins are indeed at risk for overloading. I think we used
to figure a 2A limit per circuit (probably de-rated from the
published recommendations) to insure longevity in the airplane.
I haven't used this style of connector in a new design in a
very long time . . . the ubiquitous D-sub is a low cost, robust
and widely distributed product. A really good value from both
the engineering and economic perspective.
The paralleled wire and pin concept is what I used to replace what
used to be 200 cu-in and 5# combination relays into a 25 cu-in
and 0.5 pound solid state power controller for our latest target.
We also reduced the connector costs from $hundreds$ to the price
of 3, 37-pin D-subs. Some circuits carry up to 40A. This is done
with d-sub pins (rated at 5A) by paralleling 10 pins on the end
of 22AWG pigtails of about 12" each. The wire has a resistance
of 16 mohms per foot. This small but very significant wire
resistance is added in series with the resistance of each pin
(1 to 3 mohms) and swamps out pin-to-pin variations so that
the combination of pins will share the loads between them.
So, for radios that DO use the Amp-Leaf or similar card
edge connector for power, the multiple pinout makes sense
if the radio pushes more than a couple of amps through
the wire. But like the target power distribution cited
above, pigtails of 22AWG wire from each pin, 12" or so long
can be brought together into a butt-splice were the
conductor may carry on with a nominal sized wire for
the task . . . 20AWG for radios up to 7A is plenty,
18AWG for anything bigger. You do not need to run
a wire for each pin all the way to ground and/or
bus bar.
That still begs the question about radios like Microair
that draw about 1.5A in transmit . . . a single
D-sub pin is quite adequate to the task so paralleling
two pins doesn't make any sense and I will continue
to build our harnesses here with a single 20AWG
power and ground wire crimped into one of the two
pins provided.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Autopilot Install |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
> >Here in Houston there was an airplane lost (or at least heavily damaged)
> >because the autopilot was on during takeoff. As soon as the wheels left
the
> >ground the airplane went into a steep bank. It was a C-172 if I remember
> >right. Whether the autopilot was powered because of pilot error or
> >mechanical malfuction is still out for debate but I decided that I wanted
to
> >make sure that during takeoff and landing that there was no power to the
> >autopilot. Regardless of it's ability to live with these mysterious
> >'voltage transients' I want the power OFF to the autopilot when I am
close
> >to the ground.
>
>
> Which is the way it should be. The pre-landing checklist on a bizjet
> call for a/p off before entering the pattern if you're VFR. Only the
> yaw damper stays on until right before touchdown.
>
> I'm suspicious of the pilot's story . . . if that's what he is saying.
> In any a/p equipped airplane, there is no way one could do a takeoff
> without feeling the a/p's steering effort in the wheel long before
> he reaches flying speed.
>
>
> >This switch would be dedicated to the autopilot, not an 'Avionics
Master.'
> >So it is not a single point of failure for anything other than the
> >autopilot. At least that is the way that I'm going to wire it up.
> >
> >Just something else to think about.
>
> Even when the a/p is engaged, slip clutches allow pilot to
> over-ride the limited servo authority. If anyone is blaming
> the a/p for an airplane's demise, I think there is much we
> don't know about the truth of the story.
>
> Bob . . .
>
A friend of mine had a similar incident in this same airplane a couple of
weeks before. He said right after takeoff the airplane just decided to find
a heading different than the one painted on the runway behind him. He was
able to wrestle the plane and made it a non-event. He assured me that he
had the autopilot off. He told the FBO about the problem and it was
allegedly checked out. (This is a rental plane) I didn't think much about
it at the time other than it was an interesting strory, but then a week or
so later the airplane wound up in the trees and the pilot told a similar
story.
I agree with you in that we don't know all the truth to the story, (I got
the crash story third hand) but it got me to thinking about confused
autopilots and is the reason I wrote these posts. There is no reason that
an autopilot coming on should cause any grief if you know what is going on
and react appropriately. Why the second pilot didn't react appropriately?
I don't know I suspect he was a low time student and just got flustered or
didn't quite have the skills to control it in that circumstance. I don't
know the facts I just thought the whole thing to be a healthy mental
exercise.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | BNC/TNC clamp and solder style installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>Comments/Questions: I have a "Clamp & Solder" style TNC threraded male
>connector that came with my Becker Transponder. (not bayonet)
>
>What is the assembly method and sequence of the nut, washer, gasket, cone,
>and body?
See:
http://216.55.140.222/articles/BNC_Install/BNC_Install1.jpg
http://216.55.140.222/articles/BNC_Install/BNC_Install2.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Outer jacket stripping of shielded wire |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
I have another related question for you... Again, relying on your
experience, the topic this time is multi-conductor shielded Tefzel wire;
(1), 2, 3, & 4 conductor 20, 22 & 24 GA, for example. Can you suggest a
good strip tool for this stuff? As before, I tend to invest in good tooling
which accepts different strip dies, so something for the Stipmaster would
be great. I also have a variety of cartridges for the Ideal coax strip
tool, so something for it would be desirable as well. Or, of course, I'll
buy something else if you've had good experience with it.
The outer jacket of the single conductor and triple shielded
wires I use here strip reasonably well using the pvc dies
in a old stripmaster. I say reasonably 'cause they tear the
braid up to some degree. But when you're snipping away the
braid and twisting to accommodate a solder sleeve or other
shield termination technique, the "sloppy" strip job disappears
under the finished cover.
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html
My current technique is to "pinch" the insulator, flex to crack it all
around, then pull about a 3 1/2" section off. This is hard on the hands
after a day of intercom and radio stack wiring.. ;-) Sure would like to
pick up something a little nicer, easier, faster.
That works too . . . For stripping that much length, I use an Xacto
knife to slit the outer jacket. What ever damage you do to the braid
will be minimal and insignificant in the finished product.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | LED Overvoltage and color |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
I'm working with an artist that says he's "overdriving" (I assume with
voltage) green LED's to get them to make a yellow-green color.
I thought I understood how LED's worked, and that their color was
determined by the chemistry at the junction and that voltage would vary the
brightness. Can anyone help?
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RE: E.I. instruments need pampering? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:26 AM 4/9/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Ziegler <jcz@espllc.com>
>
>Bob:
>
>You clearly have a great deal of practical experience in designing
>electric/electronic equipment to meet not only the requirements of
>DO-160, but also your own additional requirements (e.g. lightning) based
>on your experience.
The lighting tests have been part of DO-160 for many years . . .
>I would like to request (urge, beg?) you to share this knowledge with
>those of us who would like to try our hand at doing some of our own
>design work. For example, practical tips on power filtering and
>conditioning, including suggested parts and/or rules for part selection,
>rules for protecting various types of inputs and outputs, e.g.
>thermocouple, digital, high and low level analog, etc.
>
>I think this would make a great paper to add to your website, and
>perhaps a revenue source, like your existing aeroelectric notebook. I
>for one would be willing to purchase same.
>
>If such a resource already exists, please point me to it.
I'll see what I can do with this suggestion. I've got
a BUNCH of article topics to write on. Suggest you get
a copy of DO-160. The member price for base document
and all revisions is about $140. See http://www.rtca.org
If you'd like to order this document at the member price
(60% off non-member price) I can probably order it for
you through Raytheon.
The whole task is wrapped up in energy management. Identify
the antagonist and it's ability to propagate energy into
your product. Limit stress on your product by (1) increasing
input impedance so as to limit current from the stress or
(2) clamping the stress off at safe voltage levels using
any of the various transient mitigation products which include
transorbs, movs, or simple LRC networks. Sometimes it's
a combination of these techniques.
There's probably a suite of techniques commonly used for
various power, signal and control leads . . . I'll see
if I can put some reasonable bounds on a useful collection
of tricks to include in an article.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Dual E.I. bus configuration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:57 PM 4/9/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Geoff Evans
><hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>
>Bob.
>
>In planning the electrical system for my RV-8, I was leaning heavily towards
>using the Aerosance FADEC to control the engine. However, after reading of the
>brownout problems during start, I'm now leaning towards dual Lightspeed
>ignitions instead.
Does your engine come with mags? Why not use them up? Put ONE
electronic ignition on and use up the mags before you put
the second electronic system one on . . .
>I'm planning a system based on drawing Z-13, with one battery and a backup
>SD-8
>alternator.
>
>With dual electronic ignitions, should I put both of them on the hot battery
>bus? Or should I put one on the hot battery bus and one on the essential bus?
I'd put dual electronic ignitions on the battery bus.
>The only reason I can see for splitting them is to prevent engine failure in
>the extremely remote chance that the short link between the battery and
>the hot
>battery bus is compromised somehow.
Yup, that piece of wire should have same order of reliability
as prop bolts . . .
>Speaking of short links... the asterisk label in your drawings indicates
>wiring
>lengths of 6" or less, with no protection for the wire. Is the assumption that
>no fusible link is required if the wire run is kept very short? Why 6" as
>opposed to any other number?
6" is the rule-of-thumb limit for unprotected wires in
certified ships. If you need to make it 8" or a foot . . .
so be it. Just take care to install in way that does not
put the wire at risk and keep length to practical minimum.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: LED Overvoltage and color |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:43 AM 4/15/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
>
>I'm working with an artist that says he's "overdriving" (I assume with
>voltage) green LED's to get them to make a yellow-green color
Probably CURRENT overdrive . . .
>I thought I understood how LED's worked, and that their color was
>determined by the chemistry at the junction and that voltage would vary the
>brightness. Can anyone help?
Intensity is obviously a function of current and for
some devices, perceived color changes too. I'm not sure
an instrumented analysis of output color would show much
shift but the eye is a super-wide range sensor that's
anything but linear.
Do you NEED a yellow-green device? There are red-green
leds that can be duty cycle mixed so as to produce full
range of colors between red and green which would include
a yellow-green.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | TruTrak Follow-up Question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Randy Pflanzer <F1Rocket@comcast.net>
Bob,
I have an additional wiring question regarding my TruTrak (probably
applies to all APs). In the F1 Rocket, all the wires running fore and
aft have to meet up in one place to go through the spar. The TruTrak
manual specifically states to keep all stobe wires away from the servo
bundles because of power pulses in the stobe wires can interfere with
the signals in the servo bundle.
I have about a 2' section of tubing in which the power leads to the
strobe power pack and the leads from the power pack to the wings all
run parallel together with the servo bundle. Do I need to change this
and remove the strobe wires from the tube? I hate to rip all this out
but thought I'd ask first. Better to fix now rather than after I'm
flying.
Thanks again.
Randy
F1 Rocket
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/f1rocket/
Message 11
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| Subject: | Rotax alternator ouput concern |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Hi Bob and all,
During the weekend I had the oppurtunity to Fly a Rotax 912 FK 9 ultralight.
Funny little aircraft with 100-110 kt cruise speed.
During the whole flight I watched the bus voltage on the small ULMIP German
integrated engine monitor.
Avionics : Becker VHF and XPDR, Handheld Garmin 295 GPS
Regulator : unknown model with no marking. Blue plastic potting, black heat
sink.
The results were as follows (radio on) :
Strobe only : 14 V
Idem plus RC Allen AH : 13.8 V
Above plus 55 watt headlight : 13.2-12.9 V
The Becker internal voltmeter constantly read 0.2 V below those values.
Question :
-With such a voltage variation when turning the gyro on, is the Rotax claim
of 18-20 amp output credible ?
Or is something wrong with the wiring ?
I would greatly appreciate any feedback from Rotax users since our project
will be using a rotax 914 with the same alternator ( but with a different
regulator). and we'll have a 2 amp always running fuel pump.
Thanks,
Gilles
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax alternator ouput concern |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:12 PM 4/15/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee"
><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>Hi Bob and all,
>
>During the weekend I had the oppurtunity to Fly a Rotax 912 FK 9 ultralight.
>Funny little aircraft with 100-110 kt cruise speed.
>During the whole flight I watched the bus voltage on the small ULMIP German
>integrated engine monitor.
>Avionics : Becker VHF and XPDR, Handheld Garmin 295 GPS
>Regulator : unknown model with no marking. Blue plastic potting, black heat
>sink.
>The results were as follows (radio on) :
>
>Strobe only : 14 V
>Idem plus RC Allen AH : 13.8 V
>Above plus 55 watt headlight : 13.2-12.9 V
Looks typical . . .
>The Becker internal voltmeter constantly read 0.2 V below those values.
Within the usual installation and manufacturing variations.
>Question :
>-With such a voltage variation when turning the gyro on, is the Rotax claim
>of 18-20 amp output credible ?
>Or is something wrong with the wiring ?
>
>I would greatly appreciate any feedback from Rotax users since our project
>will be using a rotax 914 with the same alternator ( but with a different
>regulator). and we'll have a 2 amp always running fuel pump.
Check the data supplied with your engine. Rotax has never
claimed that they could RUN 18A worth of stuff AND
charge a battery. With everything turned on, your
bus voltage is still higher than what the battery
will deliver power at . . . so the alternator IS
carrying 100% of ship's loads. However, if you
take off with an 80% battery and run lots of stuff
for duration of flight, then you might well land
with the battery still less than 100%.
Most airplanes with PM alternators as sole source of
engine driven power source would benefit from plug-in-
the wall battery maintainer and/or roof-top solar
charger. Unlike our brothers who drive Lycs with
belt driven alternators, the risk of putting the
airplane away with a less than 100% battery is
much higher when all you have is a PM alternator.
What you've described offers no reason to be concerned
but it vividly illustrates system limitations that
should be considered in your flight ops and maintenance
plans.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Follow-up Question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:19 PM 4/15/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Randy Pflanzer <F1Rocket@comcast.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>I have an additional wiring question regarding my TruTrak (probably
>applies to all APs). In the F1 Rocket, all the wires running fore and
>aft have to meet up in one place to go through the spar. The TruTrak
>manual specifically states to keep all stobe wires away from the servo
>bundles because of power pulses in the stobe wires can interfere with
>the signals in the servo bundle.
Does he make any distinction between strobe power
or flash tube wiring?
>I have about a 2' section of tubing in which the power leads to the
>strobe power pack and the leads from the power pack to the wings all
>run parallel together with the servo bundle. Do I need to change this
>and remove the strobe wires from the tube? I hate to rip all this out
>but thought I'd ask first. Better to fix now rather than after I'm
>flying.
Sounds like you're talking about the 14v power wire. Frankly,
the system should be able to live with any properly installed
strobe system (no grounds on remote ends of bundles to
generate ground loops). I think you can leave it alone.
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax alternator ouput concern |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Bob,
Thank you.
> >
> >I would greatly appreciate any feedback from Rotax users since our
project
> >will be using a rotax 914 with the same alternator ( but with a different
> >regulator). and we'll have a 2 amp always running fuel pump.
>
> Check the data supplied with your engine. Rotax has never
> claimed that they could RUN 18A worth of stuff AND
> charge a battery. With everything turned on, your
> bus voltage is still higher than what the battery
> will deliver power at . . . so the alternator IS
> carrying 100% of ship's loads. However, if you
> take off with an 80% battery and run lots of stuff
> for duration of flight, then you might well land
> with the battery still less than 100%.
>
> Most airplanes with PM alternators as sole source of
> engine driven power source would benefit from plug-in-
> the wall battery maintainer and/or roof-top solar
> charger. Unlike our brothers who drive Lycs with
> belt driven alternators, the risk of putting the
> airplane away with a less than 100% battery is
> much higher when all you have is a PM alternator.
>
> What you've described offers no reason to be concerned
> but it vividly illustrates system limitations that
> should be considered in your flight ops and maintenance
> plans.
The load analysis I made for VFR cruise gives 10-11 amps with all permanent
loads on except the 33 watt landing light and instruments lights.
Thus I was expecting to have some headroom to give the batteries some
charge.
I have the feeling we NEED to pamper that aux battery to have a chance to
keep the mill running should the alternator quit.
Cheers,
Gilles
Message 15
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| Subject: | Nav/Strobe lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
My Aerocomp project will be here soon and one the first things I need to do is
outfit the quick build wings with conduit and set up for the Nav and Strobe lights.
I have looked at the Whelens but they seem pricey at roughly $800 for the
complete system. The Aeroflash system seems worthy at around $500.
These seem to be the main two. Are there alternatives? Where is the best place
to purchase?
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Of line until Monday |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Dee and I are launching for New Orleans in the morning. Will
be off line until Monday.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Nav/Strobe lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
Search the RV archives for the discussions about the relative merits,
brightness and conformity of the two units. I ended up going with the
Aeroflash units. They are quality units and haven't given a bit of trouble.
I have no idea if the Whelens are significantly brighter. I got the
Aeroflash units from Lockwood Aviation - they're like neighbors here in
Florida.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Nav/Strobe lights
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
> My Aerocomp project will be here soon and one the first things I need to
do is outfit the quick build wings with conduit and set up for the Nav and
Strobe lights. I have looked at the Whelens but they seem pricey at roughly
$800 for the complete system. The Aeroflash system seems worthy at around
$500.
>
> These seem to be the main two. Are there alternatives? Where is the best
place to purchase?
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Nav/Strobe lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
Having put the Whelen (aviation unit, single flash) and the Aeroflash
(double flash) side by side, the Whelen was significantly brighter.
At 11:59 PM 4/15/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duncan McBride
><duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
>
>Search the RV archives for the discussions about the relative merits,
>brightness and conformity of the two units. I ended up going with the
>Aeroflash units. They are quality units and haven't given a bit of trouble.
>I have no idea if the Whelens are significantly brighter. I got the
>Aeroflash units from Lockwood Aviation - they're like neighbors here in
>Florida.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Nav/Strobe lights
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> >
> > My Aerocomp project will be here soon and one the first things I need to
>do is outfit the quick build wings with conduit and set up for the Nav and
>Strobe lights. I have looked at the Whelens but they seem pricey at roughly
>$800 for the complete system. The Aeroflash system seems worthy at around
>$500.
> >
> > These seem to be the main two. Are there alternatives? Where is the best
>place to purchase?
> >
> > Darwin N. Barrie
> > Chandler AZ
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: LED Overvoltage and color |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski@direcway.com>
richard@riley.net wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
>
>I'm working with an artist that says he's "overdriving" (I assume with
>voltage) green LED's to get them to make a yellow-green color.
>
>I thought I understood how LED's worked, and that their color was
>determined by the chemistry at the junction and that voltage would vary the
>brightness. Can anyone help?
>
>
Materials expand with temperature, and greater distance between atoms
in a crystalline lattice typically results in lower energy of the
bandgap. Therefore the hot diode produces lower energy photons, i.e.
shifted towards red part of the spectrum. Most likely you would not
notice this effect for a red diode, in red the eye is not very sensitive
to the wavelength change. It just happens that the eye is very sensitive
to wavelength in the yellow/green part of the spectrum.
The other part of the story is that you have to strongly overdrive the
diode and get it quite hot in order to see that effect. And believe me,
the diode does not like it. But you can get a wavelength shift in the
opposite direction, i.e. towards blue by cooling the diode. Attach the
yellow diode to a Peltier cooler, or put it into a freezer, and you
will see a yellow diode turn green. In a lab in liquid helium you can
get quite dramatic color changes.
Jerzy
>
>
>
>
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