Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:59 AM - Breaker for Internally Regulated ND Alternator? (John H. Wiegenstein)
2. 08:13 AM - Re: Breaker for Internally Regulated ND Alternator? (Alex Peterson)
3. 10:13 AM - Lighting (Fergus Kyle)
4. 12:10 PM - Re: Lighting (Gerry Holland)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Breaker for Internally Regulated ND Alternator? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John H. Wiegenstein" <johnw@hellerwiegenstein.com>
I have the Van's 60A internally regulated ND alternator, and am considering
runnning that as is with the ANL60 current limiter to feed output to the hot
side of the starter contactor. Despite much review of Bob's bible and the
list, I remain uncertain about whether a circuit breaker for the 12V feed TO
the alternator would be of any value here. My understanding is that in this
setup the 12V feed from the battery master (or, in my case, the main bus
fuseblock) to the alternator is only for providing field excitation when
starting, etc. or where the alternator otherwise is not providing its own.
If there is no way to kill the field current (once the alternator is up and
running) because of the internal regulator, then is there any reason to have
a pullable CB on the 12V input to the alternator, as opposed to just a fuse?
TIA
John H. Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 S/N 23961 - N727JW (reserved)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Breaker for Internally Regulated ND Alternator? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>I have the Van's 60A internally regulated ND alternator,
>If there is no way to
> kill the field current (once the alternator is up and
> running) because of the internal regulator, then is there any
> reason to have a pullable CB on the 12V input to the
> alternator, as opposed to just a fuse? TIA
>
> John H. Wiegenstein
> Hansville, WA
> RV-6 S/N 23961 - N727JW (reserved)
A couple things - with no failure present the alternator will be
instantly killed if one turns off the "field" juice. I put it in quotes
because it is not really field, but rather, sends the juice to the
internal components that regulate the alternator field (or perhaps,
simply tell the regulator to wake up). Let's call it the control input
for lack of a better definition.
John, perhaps you have a master type switch, with three positions? One
for master off, one for master on, and one for master/alternator on. If
you have this, then you do not need a pullable breaker on the alternator
control input, assuming it is needed at all.
There is controversy about whether the internally regulated ND
alternators have a failure mode in which, in spite of killing the
control input, the voltage still runs away. In other words, is the
juice used by the internal regulator entirely supplied by the control,
or is some supplied entirely internally, effectively shunting the
control input during a failure? It is surprisingly difficult to find
someone who is actually knowledgeable on ND alternators, although one I
found at an alternator shop somewhere in FL was certain there is no
internal shunting possibility in the design. I'm skeptical without our
own data.
Bob N. and I discussed this a few years ago, and we agreed that one
would need to measure the control current to see if it seemed to map
alternator output. If it does, it could indicate that all the actual
field juice is coming in through the control line. If this is the case,
an effective overvoltage protection could be had by simply putting Bob's
crowbar on the control line, without having a contactor on the main
alternator output line. I'm negligent in doing the experiment of
measuring control input current - too busy flying. I'll try to rig up
something to get this done.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 291 hours
www.rvforum.org MAY 31st, Be There!
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 3
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Gerry,
I admit the website you suggest is very tempting since
everything is ready to go, but
[1] If you would prefer 20miiliamps instead of 1000 or
1100,
[2] If you prefer cold light vs. too hot to handle, and
[3] If you would like 100,000hours life vs. 3500, then you might want
to check into Weir's series of articles in back issues of KitPlanes for LED
details.
Try
http://www.rst-engr.com/kitplanes. and search for articles her has written.
Cheers, Ferg
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Ferg Hi!
> If you would like 100,000hours life vs. 3500, then you might want
> to check into Weir's series of articles in back issues of KitPlanes
> for LED
> details.
I've purchased from Jim and Gail in the past and built their Audio
Panel and Marker Receiver. It turned out great and by coincidence they
have just sent me an upgrade kit for Marker Lights and Audio Panel
fascia.
I agree on your comments re. 'Hot and Cold' and have LED wherever
possible including my Panel spotlight. I'm using a Rotax Alternator so
'power' is at a premium with 14 amps max? I'm wiring at this time so
you can guess I'm pretty focussed.
Kind Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
mailto://gnholland@onetel.com
+44 7808 402404
Europa XS 384
G-FIZY
The greatest enjoyment from existence is living dangerously....
Friedrich Nietzsche
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