Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:03 AM - UPSAT GPS & Nav/Com new and cheap (Gary Coonan)
2. 05:47 AM - Re: Blown master fuse (RVEIGHTA@aol.com)
3. 06:55 AM - Re: Blown master fuse (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:57 AM - Re: Wig wag relay (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 10:59 AM - Re: Wig wag relay (Bob Kuc)
6. 11:06 AM - Makita Battery Charger (czechsix@juno.com)
7. 12:01 PM - Surplus comm antenna (Ken Simmons)
8. 12:07 PM - Re: Wig wag relay (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 12:12 PM - Simple timer for low fuel warning . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 12:14 PM - Z15B (TimRhod@aol.com)
11. 12:47 PM - Re: Surplus comm antenna (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 01:33 PM - Makita Battery Charger (Chris Stone)
13. 01:39 PM - Re: Surplus comm antenna (Ken Simmons)
14. 01:59 PM - Re: Radio frequency interferences (Paul A. Franz, P.E.)
15. 02:21 PM - Re: Z15B (LarryRobertHelming)
16. 04:09 PM - SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - SOME ELECTRICAL DATA POINTS (Francis, David CMDR)
17. 04:30 PM - Re: Blown master fuse (RVEIGHTA@aol.com)
18. 04:35 PM - Connecting Stereo to RST Intercom (s35pilot)
19. 06:01 PM - fuel pump on Battery Bus (Jim Pack)
20. 08:07 PM - Re: Simple timer for low fuel warning . . . (Robert McCallum)
21. 08:57 PM - Re: Chinese QC (Bill Irvine)
22. 09:21 PM - Audio Hi-Lo (DHPHKH@aol.com)
23. 09:39 PM - The Connection Z-13 questions (Treff, Arthur)
24. 09:56 PM - Re: Re: Chinese QC (richard@riley.net)
25. 10:05 PM - Battery Contactor - Location? (Don Honabach)
26. 10:05 PM - Re: Re: Chinese QC (Bruce Gray)
Message 1
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| Subject: | UPSAT GPS & Nav/Com new and cheap |
<210691D7AF75D6119B7900508B8BD11956AA71@sbserver.stingerindustries.com>
"rv-list@matronics.com"
<210691D7AF75D6119B7900508B8BD1192DBFCE@sbserver.stingerindustries.com>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gary Coonan <gcoonan@comcast.net>
I just ordered the new UPS CNX80 therefore I need to sell my SL30 and
GX60
GX-60 $3550 (list $5195)
SL-30 $2850 (list $4155)
They are both brand new, never been mounted or powered. Just opened the
boxes to look. Let me know.
Gary M. Coonan .
RV-7 Avionics
gcoonan@comcast.net
Do Not Archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Blown master fuse |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
Bob, I guess I just got carried away with the fuse approach vs breakers and
failed to see the symbol for the breaker. Before I order a breaker though,
what type breaker should I use? A 5a W58 or a combination breaker/switch to
use in place of my master switch? If I use the W58 please advise step by
step how to wire it and the master switch in, I really want to get it right
this time....... Also, I need to place an order with B&C for some other
stuff, do you carry the breaker I need? Thanks!
Walt Shipley
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Blown master fuse |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:46 AM 4/29/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
>
>Bob, I guess I just got carried away with the fuse approach vs breakers and
>failed to see the symbol for the breaker. Before I order a breaker though,
>what type breaker should I use? A 5a W58 or a combination breaker/switch to
>use in place of my master switch?
Wire it per the drawing.
> If I use the W58 please advise step by
>step how to wire it and the master switch in, I really want to get it right
>this time....... Also, I need to place an order with B&C for some other
>stuff, do you carry the breaker I need? Thanks!
Any 5A breaker will work. B&C offers a suitable breaker from
their website catalog at http://www.bandc.biz
This doesn't explain why the crowbar ov system was
tripping. Did you find some wiring errors?
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Wig wag relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:21 PM 4/28/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Kuc" <bkuc1@tampabay.rr.com>
>
> > about anything .1 or larger will work . . . if you have .1 uf, that's
>fine.
> >
>Ok so I have those caps in place. Now the question is does it matter what
>kind of caps they should be? A ceramic .1uF is rather small. My 10 uF is a
>dipped tantalum style, while my .1 uf is larger and I believe a coated one.
>Maybe I have the wrong type of cap on mine? should I go with the 1000v 1"
>.1uf cap?
No, the style and voltage are not critical to
the operation as long as the voltage rating
of the capacitor is equal to or greater than
operating voltage.
>I did try the separate lead into the relay and it still acted the same way.
Hmmm . . . I've built dozens of these. I'm
curious as to what's going on here. Can you send
me your flasher assembly in the mail to look at?
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Wig wag relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Kuc" <bkuc1@tampabay.rr.com>
thanks,
Sure. I will attach it all back and send you my relays and stuff up there.
It should be in the mail this week-end Could send me yer address?
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wig wag relay
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 06:21 PM 4/28/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Kuc"
<bkuc1@tampabay.rr.com>
> >
> > > about anything .1 or larger will work . . . if you have .1 uf,
that's
> >fine.
> > >
> >Ok so I have those caps in place. Now the question is does it matter
what
> >kind of caps they should be? A ceramic .1uF is rather small. My 10 uF
is a
> >dipped tantalum style, while my .1 uf is larger and I believe a coated
one.
> >Maybe I have the wrong type of cap on mine? should I go with the 1000v
1"
> >.1uf cap?
>
> No, the style and voltage are not critical to
> the operation as long as the voltage rating
> of the capacitor is equal to or greater than
> operating voltage.
>
>
> >I did try the separate lead into the relay and it still acted the same
way.
>
> Hmmm . . . I've built dozens of these. I'm
> curious as to what's going on here. Can you send
> me your flasher assembly in the mail to look at?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Makita Battery Charger |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
My Makita battery charger has been acting flakey for some time and finally quit
working altogether. I'm a cheapskate and before I go spend $50 on a new one,
I just thought I'd check to see if anyone has fixed one of these things before?
I took the cover off it and it's pretty simple...besides the transformer,
there's a PCB with a few resistors and diodes and half a dozen other switches
and thingies (sorry for the technical lingo but I'm not sure what all of them
are). I suspect the part that is bad is the circuit-breaker-type device that
pops open to stop charging the battery when either the battery is bad or it's
fully charged. I have two batteries and I know both are good, but the charger
has been kicking off shortly after I push the red button to start charging them...sometimes
it worked and sometimes it didn't. Now it won't even "engage"
to charge at all, and the reset button doesn't do anything. Probably could be
fixed for $5 if I could find the part, but the specs on it didn't turn up anything
on Google or Mouser or Digikey. If it means anything to anyone, it's a
grey plastic housing measuring 1" long X 0.6" high X 0.3" wide, has a pushbutton
on top, two solder tabs on the bottom, and is labeled "SA BC601 AC125V
3.15A 4L 05-02" The PCB labels it "OCR 3.15A".
Or maybe I should just order a new charger : )
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D firewall forward...
do not archive
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 7
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| Subject: | Surplus comm antenna |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
I got what I thought was a good deal on a surplus comm antenna, but I'm
not sure now. I can't seem to find any information on the antenna. It's
a stainless steel bent whip with a ceramic insulator at the base. The
only numbers on the insulator are NS4W4103 and under that CAS. I can't
find any specific information on this antenna. The only thing I found
was a general statement that this type of antenna is no good above
127MHz. There is also some question of how much airspeed this type of
mount can handle (building an RV-8). Any ideas?
Thanks
ken
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wig wag relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:58 PM 4/29/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Kuc" <bkuc1@tampabay.rr.com>
>
>thanks,
>
>Sure. I will attach it all back and send you my relays and stuff up there.
>It should be in the mail this week-end Could send me yer address?
6936 Bainbridge Road
Wichita, KS 67226-1008
Message 9
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| Subject: | Simple timer for low fuel warning . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
What you're looking for is more than a simple timer . . . and
a brief look at the replies on this topic didn't pick up on
what's needed.
A "flicker filter" is easy to implement in a little
micro-controller for the lowest parts count . . . but unless
you have access to the programming hardware and skills
this could a low-return-on-investment approach. A pure
discrete component approach is illustrated at:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/Flicker_Filter.pdf
All the parts are available from Digikey. Timing
for turn-on and turn-off response is set by the
470K/22uF resistor/capacitor pairs. The constants
shown give you about 11 seconds of delay for uninterrupted
switch closure to turn the light on and the same delay
of uninterrupted switch opening to turn the light back
out.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: TimRhod@aol.com
Bob Could you explain why Z15B is not a good Idea. That particular
architecture would work well for the velocity where the #2AWG runs in a duct
from firewall through canard bulkhead right to the batteries. A seperate #
4AWG could come from the panel ground block on the panel and to the batteries
via a different route. If you dont recommend this then I would have to cut
through the duct inside the cabin behind the panel run the #2 wire up to the
panel ground presumable on the panel and then back down into the duct to go
to the battery. It would be a lot of heavy wire inside the cabin and onto the
panel. Is there a better way I'm not seeing? Thanks Tim
Z-15B is not a good idea and will be revised at next revision
=A0 to bring battery and 2AWG engine grounds together at the
=A0 ground bus.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Surplus comm antenna |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:11 PM 4/29/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
>I got what I thought was a good deal on a surplus comm antenna, but I'm
>not sure now. I can't seem to find any information on the antenna. It's
>a stainless steel bent whip with a ceramic insulator at the base. The
>only numbers on the insulator are NS4W4103 and under that CAS. I can't
>find any specific information on this antenna. The only thing I found
>was a general statement that this type of antenna is no good above
>127MHz. There is also some question of how much airspeed this type of
>mount can handle (building an RV-8). Any ideas?
>
>Thanks
>
>ken
Antennas of this style were used by the thousands when
comm transceivers first found their way onto airplanes.
We made our own from scratch at Cessna; you can buy
the insulators from some specialty houses. One example
can be seen at:
http://www.surplussales.com/Ceramic.html
There's nothing "magic" about this antenna style. I disucss
it in the book. It's certainly adequate for your RV-8.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Makita Battery Charger |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris Stone" <Chris.Stone@a-dec.com>
Mark...
My experience with the Makita chargers suggests that you first check the
battery pack. If you have a voltmeter check the pack voltage. With the
pack discharged (Dead) it should measure no less then 1.1 V/cell. If a
9.6 V pack 8 cells (8 x 1.2 = 9.6) it should measure 8.8V if it's less
then you probably have a bad cell. The charger will detect the higher
internal resistance due to the bad cell and not charge the pack. Either
disassemble and replace the bad cell (some newer ultrasonically welded
plastic packs may not be opened without badly damaging the plastic
package) or just replace the pack.
The Makitas use a thermal switch attached to one cell in the pack. As
the pack charges and reaches full capacity it heats up and opens the
thermal switch and disconnects the pack from the charger. This method
of charge state detection is very hard on the cells and dramatically
reduces their useful life.
Chris Stone
RV-8 Wings on the wet side of Oregon
-----Original Message-----
From: czechsix@juno.com [mailto:czechsix@juno.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Makita Battery Charger
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
My Makita battery charger has been acting flakey for some time and
finally quit working altogether. I'm a cheapskate and before I go spend
$50 on a new one, I just thought I'd check to see if anyone has fixed
one of these things before? I took the cover off it and it's pretty
simple...besides the transformer, there's a PCB with a few resistors and
diodes and half a dozen other switches and thingies (sorry for the
technical lingo but I'm not sure what all of them are). I suspect the
part that is bad is the circuit-breaker-type device that pops open to
stop charging the battery when either the battery is bad or it's fully
charged. I have two batteries and I know both are good, but the charger
has been kicking off shortly after I push the red button to start
charging them...sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't. Now it
won't even "engage" to charge at all, and the reset button doesn't do
anything. Probably could be fixed for $5 if I could find the part, but
the spec!
s on it didn't turn up anything on Google or Mouser or Digikey. If it
means anything to anyone, it's a grey plastic housing measuring 1" long
X 0.6" high X 0.3" wide, has a pushbutton on top, two solder tabs on the
bottom, and is labeled "SA BC601 AC125V 3.15A 4L 05-02" The PCB
labels it "OCR 3.15A".
Or maybe I should just order a new charger : )
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D firewall forward...
do not archive
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the
web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Surplus comm antenna |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Thanks Bob. I guess I should have looked at the book before I asked.
I'll certainly do that tonight.
Ken
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:bob.nuckolls@cox.net]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Surplus comm antenna
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:11 PM 4/29/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons"
<ken@truckstop.com>
>
>I got what I thought was a good deal on a surplus comm antenna, but I'm
>not sure now. I can't seem to find any information on the antenna. It's
>a stainless steel bent whip with a ceramic insulator at the base. The
>only numbers on the insulator are NS4W4103 and under that CAS. I can't
>find any specific information on this antenna. The only thing I found
>was a general statement that this type of antenna is no good above
>127MHz. There is also some question of how much airspeed this type of
>mount can handle (building an RV-8). Any ideas?
>
>Thanks
>
>ken
Antennas of this style were used by the thousands when
comm transceivers first found their way onto airplanes.
We made our own from scratch at Cessna; you can buy
the insulators from some specialty houses. One example
can be seen at:
http://www.surplussales.com/Ceramic.html
There's nothing "magic" about this antenna style. I disucss
it in the book. It's certainly adequate for your RV-8.
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Radio frequency interferences |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul@eucleides.com>
At 12:36 AM 4/29/2003kurt schrader sez:
>Theoretically right Paul,
>
>As you said, you need an essential buss and I was
>referring to those things that are really essential
>when using CB's. I have an electric horizon for
>example. I would reset it 1000 times if I had to in
>the clouds to keep it and me upright until I got down
>or VFR.
I have seen this type of argument posed before. Since I am *NOT AN EXPERT*
I cannot precisely identify the flaw. But I know just enough to think your
response could be flawed.
>And my all electric NSI engine ignition will have two
>CB's, one of which is hot off the battery buss and the
>other off a seperate battery. One even has two wires
>going to it for redundancy.
Sometimes redundancy introduces complexity that actually reduces
reliability. Have you checked out Bob's circuits for OV, dual batteries and
it is possible that there should be neither a fuse or CB in portions of the
wiring?
Remember, I am not qualified, and really don't have the knowledge to argue
this well. I am totally relying on Bob's knowledge from a career in the
business and he has weighed in the pros and cons of most of these
alternatives. There are lots of ways to do things that are acceptable but
some of the ways that are commonly done are not good ideas. Bob Nuckolls
has a very good way of presenting the information so that you can make
choices taking into consideration you preferences.
>Neither would be a good item for using a fuse.
>Sometimes you just have to have it "now" and you need
>to wire for that posibility. I don't put a fuse on
>any circuit that, when it dies, I might too.
The second battery idea is good. As I recall, there is never a
justification for circuit breakers. There is a better way to do the
circuit. We should have Bob in the loop here. How about we take this
discussion to the AeroElectric list?
I'd hear the stuff reviewed again and would learn and you might get some
cool ideas too.
>I have a 60 amp main buss CB. It has a lot of items
>on it and could and should blow from an overload.
It is my understanding that it is improperly designed and sized then.
Should not be an operational possibility for the overload.
>can turn stuff off, like the 10 amp landing light, and
>reset it to give me needed items, if I want to.
>
>On a rescue mission, I once saved 4 F-4's from going
>into the ocean by refueling them with a KC-130 that
>required over 100 CB resets to keep one engine
>running. We shut it down after we refueled the F-4's
>and went home on 3 engines. Without that 4th engine
>we couldn't get enough speed to refuel them.
Bet that had a mess of poor design too!
>Remember, engineers design for everything they can
>think of (theoretically), but you have to survive what
>they didn't think of too (in reality). Engineers are
>good, but human.
>
>We do carry some fuses on our Boeing aircraft, but
>they are outnumbered greatly by CB's. Ok, maybe those
>are big as a house... :-) You got me on that one.
>
>Kurt S.
Bob N works for Raytheon and can comment on years of commercial practice
which is not best practice especially for our experimentals which allow us
to use best and current methods and practices with the freedom. Just
because it was done on a KC-135 or C-130 doesn't mean it is good, it means
it was approved.
I'm going to cc: the aeroelectric list with this one and hopefully you'll
have a look there too.
>--- "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul@eucleides.com> wrote:
> > I'm certainly no wiring expert, but I don't think
> > Bob Nuckolls would concur
> > with you. I believe fuses are the only choice and
> > circuit breakers belong
> > in your house, not your airplane. If something blows
> > a fuse, it should do
> > it quickly and protectively. Breakers don't act fast
> > enough to protect
> > devices, just to prevent fire.
> >
> > When it comes time to design wiring for your bird,
> > have a look at
> > <http://aeroelectric.com/>.
> >
> > You should post your questions directly to the mail
> > list for The Aero
> > Electric Connection. Subscribe
> > <http://www.matronics.com/subscription>.
> >
> > Fuses vs. Breakers have been debated for years and
> > years. Search the
> > archives
> > <http://www.matronics.com/aeroelectric-list> and I
> > think it will
> > become apparent that fuses are the only way to go.
> > Less cost, higher
> > reliability, less weight and panel space.
> >
> > At 12:43 AM 4/28/2003kurt schrader sez:
> > >Michel,
> > >
> > >You only need circuit breakers instead of fuses for
> > >those items that you "need" inflight. Anything
> > that
> > >you can't do without, you should replace the fuse
> > with
> > >a CB. That way if the CB pops, you can reset it in
> > >flight. If a fuse blows, you have to take the time
> > to
> > >find the right fuse and replace it while flying.
> >
> > Only to find that it immediately blows again. If a
> > fuse blows or CB pops
> > something needs to be fixed before resetting. Since
> > fuses are inherently
> > less complex, cheaper, faster acting they are the
> > appropriate choice for
> > all aircraft circuit protection.
> >
> > Keep in mind, a modern aircraft has a separate
> > functioning essential bus too.
> >
> >
> > >Fuses are best for those things that give you no
> > cause
> > >for worry and allow you to land and replace the
> > fuse.
> >
> > I subscribe to the idea that the essential bus is
> > what takes you to the
> > safe place to land.
> >
> > Keep in mind that I am *NOT* an expert in wiring and
> > *DO NOT* warrant
> > having an authoritative viewpoint. However, Bob
> > Nuckolls is probably the
> > world's foremost expert on Aero Electrics so you
> > should do what he says to
> > do as a matter of best practice.
> >
> >
> > >Kurt S.
> > >
> > >--- Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
> > >
> > > > One question though: What do you mean by
> > > > CB? I suspect it is not
> > > > "Citizen Bands" so it could be "Circuit
> > Breaker," is
> > > > it?
> > > > If so, no, I don't have a CB before the
> > regulator.
> > > > In fact, I don't have any
> > > > CBs but simple fuses as found in automobiles. I
> > know
> > > > that some microlight
> > > > planes have a set of CB on the panel. It looks
> > very
> > > > neat and it is what I wish
> > > > I had. One day I'll rebuild my panel and re-wire
> > the
> > > > entier plane, that I find
> > > > a bit messy now.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Cheers,
> > > > Michel
>
>__________________________________
>http://search.yahoo.com
Paul Franz
PAF Consulting Engineers | 427 - 140th Ave NE
(425)641-8202 voice | Bellevue, WA 98005
(425)641-1773 fax | <mailto:paul@eucleides.com>
<http://blackdog.bellevue.wa.us/>
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
What is Z15B? My book only has Z15.
Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up O-360 3XG reserved.
Working on Canopy of Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <TimRhod@aol.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Z15B
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: TimRhod@aol.com
>
>
> Bob Could you explain why Z15B is not a good Idea. That particular
> architecture would work well for the velocity where the #2AWG runs in a
duct
> from firewall through canard bulkhead right to the batteries. A seperate #
> 4AWG could come from the panel ground block on the panel and to the
batteries
> via a different route. If you dont recommend this then I would have to
cut
> through the duct inside the cabin behind the panel run the #2 wire up to
the
> panel ground presumable on the panel and then back down into the duct to
go
> to the battery. It would be a lot of heavy wire inside the cabin and onto
the
> panel. Is there a better way I'm not seeing? Thanks Tim
>
>
> Z-15B is not a good idea and will be revised at next revision
> to bring battery and 2AWG engine grounds together at the
> ground bus.
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - SOME ELECTRICAL DATA POINTS |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Folks,
Its the Australian autumn. A time of year when flying people gather in large
flocks to admire and criticise each others planes. So I just had two
consecutive weekends looking at homebuilts and then antique planes. Its
amazing what you pick up. Three true stories for your entertainment and
enlightenment.
Some time ago at Adelaide a twin full of charter passengers did a wheels up
landing with much damage. The cause - the field power for BOTH alternators
ran through ONE relay. Guess which single point of failure had the audacity
to fail in flight? By the time they arrived over this major capital city
airport they did not have enough battery power to lower the gear or talk to
the tower to explain the problem, or get clearances. Imagine the confusion
and safety concern for dense airline traffic. Yes it was a Certified
aircraft.
A Lancair builder told me he just installed a colour GPS and found that
every time he hit the PTT all his electronic engine instruments went
haywire, and returned to normal on release of PTT. Removed the GPS, problem
solved, re-installed it, problem returned. Had an auto electrician spend 4
hrs labour on it, no fix found. He is still flying, and looking for the
problem.
I had a long ride in a 50 year old de Havilland Chipmunk. It had horrendous
noise on the intercom and I remarked that he seemed to have a noisy
alternator. He said no its the gyros radiating. These gyros are vacuum
powered, but he demonstated it to be true. The noise is independent of the
alternator. Amazing.
David Francis, RV7 VH-ZEE hammering the fuselage together.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Blown master fuse |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
Bob, no I really haven't solved the problem of why the fuse blows (master to
alternator/ b lead ov protection contactor). But here is some history; I
used your 4 terminal battery contactor, which came with a diode across the
two small terminals and another from the large battery terminal to the small
terminal on the left.
Not realizing that the latter diode should be removed, I wired everything up
and when I first started the engine the diode between the two small terminals
went up in smoke. I sent you an email at that time and you said to remove the
left diode and replace the remaining diode with one from Radio Shack (don't
remember the p/n), which I did.
I have checked and double checked my wiring against the diagram, have done
continuity tests of the alternator to bus wiring (ok) and ran power to the
ov contactor bypassing the contactor diode and found the contactor clicks.
Would this tell me possibly I have the wrong diode installed ?
Please stick with me a little longer..........
Thanks, Walt
Message 18
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| Subject: | Connecting Stereo to RST Intercom |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "s35pilot" <s35pilot@hotmail.com>
Hi,
I wired a small portable MP3 player to my RST intercom but the volume is
low. I thought it might be some kind of impedence problem so I hooked up a
small audio transformer from radio shack with the low impedence side to my
MP3 player and the high to the intercom. The sound was loud but the MP3
player shuts down (I think it is self protection against shorts). Am I
doing this thing right? Has this problem already been solved? I am
thinking of adding a resistor to the transformer in the MP3 low impedence
side but I don't know what to use. I really want to use the MP3 player
since my plane is a Cozy III and space is at a real premium. If you have any
suggestions how to fix this I would really apreciate it!
Tim
Message 19
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| Subject: | fuel pump on Battery Bus |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Pack" <jpack@igs3.com>
In Z-14, what is the rational for putting the fuel pump connected to the
"always hot" battery bus? Is there a reason it should not be on one of the
switched bus's?
- Jim
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Simple timer for low fuel warning . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
A pure discrete component approach is illustrated at:
> http://216.55.140.222/temp/Flicker_Filter.pdf
>
> Timing for turn-on and turn-off response is set by the
> 470K/22uF resistor/capacitor pairs. The constants
> shown give you about 11 seconds of delay
> Bob . . .
>
The drawing at the location above has 470K/10uF resistor/capacitor
pairs shown. Does the eleven seconds derive from replacing the 470/10
with 470/22 ? or from the 470/10 as shown in the drawing??
--
Bob McC
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 21
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bill Irvine <wgirvine@yahoo.com>
> I had a friend who recently made a tour of some
> aviation related manufacturing facilities over
> there. He spotted a Chinese engineering group
> dissembling and reverse engineering the infamous
> Mini 500 single seat helicopter. Gonna kill a lot of
> Chinese helo pilots with that death trap.
>
> Bruce
Why? Was it that bad? Just curious...
Bill
do not archive
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 22
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
Gang,
Can somebody please tell me about "Audio Hi" and "Audio Lo" connections
on radios and intercoms? Why Hi and Lo, what is the difference, what purpose
is served, etc?
Thanks
Dan Horton
Message 23
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| Subject: | The Connection Z-13 questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Treff, Arthur" <Arthur.Treff@Smartm.com>
'Letric Bob and the list,
I'm configuring my RV-8 as an "all electric plane on a budget". The battery will
be aft mounted for weight and balance considerations. I have the following
questions.
1) What size current limiter and ammeter shunt is suggested for a 40 amp alternator,
Z-13 shows the values for a 60 amp alt.
2) When mounting the battery in the rear of a metal airplane, it was suggested
to me by a friend to ground the battery (-) to a local stout longeron, then to
reconnect to that same longeron for the firewall ground forest of fast on tabs.
I am leaning towards a common ground and running a seperate 2awg wire forward
to the firewall to avoid ground loops. Your thoughts?
3) In looking at Z-13, it seems to me that mounting the battery relay up on the
firewall, instead of back on the battery mount, it simplifies the connection
of the standby alternator to the battery side of the relay if it is firewall
mounted, and shouldn't really matter to the battery if it's rear or front mounted,
right? As long as the wire leading up to it is sized correctly.
4) I am planning on integrating the lo cost GPU connection from the Connection
and for safety mounting the Piper type recepticle in the rear. If my assumption
of #3 above is correct and I do mount the battery relay up front on the firewall,
would it be OK to connect the output of the GPU solenoid to the battery
(+) instead of running another large wire forward to the battery relay?
5) In Z-13, there is a fuse between the Battery bus and the E bus switch and
an additional fuseable link between the switch and the e bus. Why both?
Thanks for your time.
Art Treff
Message 24
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
At 08:57 PM 4/29/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bill Irvine <wgirvine@yahoo.com>
>
> > I had a friend who recently made a tour of some
> > aviation related manufacturing facilities over
> > there. He spotted a Chinese engineering group
> > dissembling and reverse engineering the infamous
> > Mini 500 single seat helicopter. Gonna kill a lot of
> > Chinese helo pilots with that death trap.
> >
> > Bruce
>
>Why? Was it that bad? Just curious...
>Bill
Do a web search on it. The accident rate made the original BD-5 short wing
look safe. Mostly engine failures. Reverse and re-engineering would
improve it (QC had some problems, too) but two-stroke and Helicopter are
words that shouldn't be used together.
Do not archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | Battery Contactor - Location? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Doing my wiring diagram in Visio and after spending many hours creating
the stencil/shapes I'm almost done. BTW, if there is an easier way
(didn't want to learn AutoCAD) to do this, please don't tell me - I've
put in way to much work and sometimes ignorance is bliss.
Any way, while doing the diagram I started thinking that I'd like to put
the battery contactor on or near the firewall. However, my battery is
located just behind the seats so I was worried that since I've seen it
mentioned that the battery contactor should be within 12 inches or so of
the battery that I was violating some golden rule. However, the only
reason I could find for placing the contactor so close to the battery
was a possible safety issue of having a large current HOT wire running
through half the plane.
If this is so, how much of safety issue is it? Are there any other
reasons for placing the contactor next to the battery?
Thanks!
Don
Message 26
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
The Revolution Mini 500 was a death trap. Over 50 percent of those that
were built crashed. 12-15 fatalities, thank God is was a single seat
helicopter. Check google, you'll find loads of information.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Irvine
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Chinese QC
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bill Irvine
<wgirvine@yahoo.com>
> I had a friend who recently made a tour of some
> aviation related manufacturing facilities over
> there. He spotted a Chinese engineering group
> dissembling and reverse engineering the infamous
> Mini 500 single seat helicopter. Gonna kill a lot of
> Chinese helo pilots with that death trap.
>
> Bruce
Why? Was it that bad? Just curious...
Bill
do not archive
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
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