Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:52 AM - Re: Source and description of BNC and solder. (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
2. 06:03 AM - Re: Source and description of BNC and solder. (Dennis O'Connor)
3. 06:06 AM - Re: Headphone noise on transmit (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:24 AM - Re: sifting good stuff out of the noise (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:12 AM - iPaq 3630 Pocket PC repair (Finn Lassen)
6. 08:16 AM - Re: Re: sifting good stuff out of the noise (DHPHKH@aol.com)
7. 09:03 AM - Re: Source and description of BNC and solder. (Chris Stone)
8. 10:25 AM - Re: LOM OVP System (Wolfgang Trinks)
9. 11:12 AM - Re: Re: sifting good stuff out of the noise (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 11:42 AM - Any standard for keyswitch orientation ? (Gilles.Thesee)
11. 11:54 AM - Re: Any standard for keyswitch orientation ? (David Swartzendruber)
12. 02:24 PM - Re: iPaq 3630 Pocket PC repair (Don Honabach)
13. 05:24 PM - Z-13 with aux battery -- a few questions (Geoff Evans)
14. 06:48 PM - Z15B (TimRhod@aol.com)
15. 07:24 PM - Re: Headphone noise on transmit (Duncan McBride)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Source and description of BNC and solder. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
In a message dated 5/22/2003 12:26:02 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rickf@cableone.net writes:
> Does anyone know of a source for solder type BNC connectors? My local
> Radio Shack only had screw type and crimp type.
>
> Solder: I have some "60/40 rosin core" type soldier. I suppose this stuff
> is not recommended for electronics. If not, what should I get and where?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 finish kit
> Boise, ID
>
>
Rick, For RG-58 cable, solder/clamp connectors look at <A HREF="www.digikey.com">www.digikey.com part
number ARF1040-ND. Rosin core 60/40 will work fine. Installing these will be
the ultimate test of your patience and skill. Remove the jacket without
nicking any shielding wire strands, comb all shield strands out flat with no over
lapping ones, bend 90 degrees to cable, cut to 1/8" length in a perfect
circle. The center pin can best be soldered on by tinning the prepared length
of
center conductor wire first then prep the center pin with a drop of liquid flux,
put the center pin on the wire and touch with a hot freshly tinned soldering
iron tip for just a second. Assemble into plug.
You will need to practice for several cycles to get this right. Pay strict
attention to all measurements on the instruction sheet. On a scale of 1 to 10
this is a solid level 8 task to do perfectly. Have fun.
John P. Marzluf
Columbus, Ohio
Kitfox Outback (out back in the garage)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Source and description of BNC and solder. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis O'Connor" <doconnor@chartermi.net>
http://www.thewireman.com/connect5.html
Tell em Denny - K8DO, sent you and deserves a discount on his next order...
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Source and description of BNC and solder.
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson"
<rickf@cableone.net>
>
> Does anyone know of a source for solder type BNC connectors? My local
Radio Shack only had screw type and crimp type.
>
> Solder: I have some "60/40 rosin core" type soldier. I suppose this
stuff is not recommended for electronics. If not, what should I get and
where?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 finish kit
> Boise, ID
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Headphone noise on transmit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:38 PM 5/18/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duncan McBride
><duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
>
>I've been fussing with what seemed to be ignition or alternator noise in
>my radio when I pushed the PTT on my Microair 760. I posted to the list a
>while back, and tried a different power source and a different
>antenna. The noise was there even when powered from a separate
>battery. Here is the thing: the noise is a loud hiss that I only hear
>when transmitting. Reception is clear as a bell. What I found out today
>is that my transmissions are clear as well. I spoke with another pilot
>sharing the pattern as we self-announced our way into Avon Park this
>morning and he said my signal was loud and clear, no hiss or any
>noise. It seems the noise is only coming out my headphones. I
>experimented and found the noise is independent of the radio volume but
>decreases if I turn down the headphones, so I can mitigate it somewhat by
>turning down the headphones and turning up the radio volume. These are
>twenty year old David Clark H10-80 'phones they don't make anymore. I
>haven't tried any others. That could they be the problem?
No . . . "hiss" is purely electronic. ALL amplifiers
in audio systems have some noise that is perceived
as hiss . . . the best are so low as to be undetectable
during normal operations. Are you using an intercom
system in addition to the 760VHF or are you using the
intercom built into the radio?
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: sifting good stuff out of the noise |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>Bob,
> From your Ft. Worth seminar a few year's ago, my memory is fading a
>little. So I write to use you as a referee over different opinions I'm
>getting about my intentions for the electrics part of my IO-360A1D, to
>be installed on my Cozy MKIV. From your books and seminar I thought 1 RG
>battery, main alternator and one backup alternator, one electronic
>ignition and one mag. No vacuum pump - all electric avionics. Some folks
>recommend two batteries,
Good idea when you put the second electronic ignition in.
>others won't even mess with electronic ignition.
. . . that's their privilege.
>Some ask why even need a backup alternator. Perhaps cost is in their
>decisions, but cost isn't high on my list as long as I can minimize the
>chance that electrics won't be the cause of losing an engine or radios.
once you pull the vacuum pump off, you have an open hole
on the engine capable of holding an alternator that is lighter
and less expensive than the vacuum pump you took off. I wouldn't
fly MY airplane around with a wasted drive pad . . .
>(I'll be close to IFR capable, but day VFR will be my greatly preferred
>operation.) What say you about the above, and would you recommend another
>approach? Perhaps I'll attend another of your seminars, now that I am
>several steps closer to hooking things up. Thanks very much.
You're suffering from the OFATSULP syndrome . . . (Opinions
Founded on Anecdotes and Tradition Sans Understanding
of Logic or Physics). Opinions are a dime-a-dozen, some are even
free. Knowledge is also dirt cheap . . . it's all around us
just waiting to be picked up. Education is the hard part,
it takes time and consideration of how the pieces fit together.
Take all the advice "under advisement" . . . but join us
on the AeroElectric List where lots of studious folks will
help you sift the good stuff out of the sand and dust.
Which backup alternator did you buy and which power distribution
diagram is most attractive to you?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | iPaq 3630 Pocket PC repair |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
Anybody know where I can get the PCB connector to the display replaced
at a resonable price (less than $100)?
Or maybe just a source (and part number) for the connector?
It's the CN12 90-pin connector to the flat-ribbon cable going to the
display.
What kind of tool does one use to replace it? Some kind of hot-air gun?
Finn
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
>
>
>>Bob,
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>From your Ft. Worth seminar a few year's ago, my memory is fading a
>>little. So I write to use you as a referee over different opinions I'm
>>getting about my intentions for the electrics part of my IO-360A1D, to
>>be installed on my Cozy MKIV. From your books and seminar I thought 1 RG
>>battery, main alternator and one backup alternator, one electronic
>>ignition and one mag. No vacuum pump - all electric avionics. Some folks
>>recommend two batteries,
>>
>>
>
> Good idea when you put the second electronic ignition in.
>
>
>
>>others won't even mess with electronic ignition.
>>
>>
>
>
> . . . that's their privilege.
>
>
>
>>Some ask why even need a backup alternator. Perhaps cost is in their
>>decisions, but cost isn't high on my list as long as I can minimize the
>>chance that electrics won't be the cause of losing an engine or radios.
>>
>>
>
> once you pull the vacuum pump off, you have an open hole
> on the engine capable of holding an alternator that is lighter
> and less expensive than the vacuum pump you took off. I wouldn't
> fly MY airplane around with a wasted drive pad . . .
>
>
>
>>(I'll be close to IFR capable, but day VFR will be my greatly preferred
>>operation.) What say you about the above, and would you recommend another
>>approach? Perhaps I'll attend another of your seminars, now that I am
>>several steps closer to hooking things up. Thanks very much.
>>
>>
>
> You're suffering from the OFATSULP syndrome . . . (Opinions
> Founded on Anecdotes and Tradition Sans Understanding
> of Logic or Physics). Opinions are a dime-a-dozen, some are even
> free. Knowledge is also dirt cheap . . . it's all around us
> just waiting to be picked up. Education is the hard part,
> it takes time and consideration of how the pieces fit together.
> Take all the advice "under advisement" . . . but join us
> on the AeroElectric List where lots of studious folks will
> help you sift the good stuff out of the sand and dust.
>
> Which backup alternator did you buy and which power distribution
> diagram is most attractive to you?
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: sifting good stuff out of the noise |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
Bob coins a new aviation acronym:
<<OFATSULP syndrome . . . (Opinions Founded on Anecdotes and Tradition Sans
Understanding of Logic or Physics)
I love it! However, it will probably get you punched in a fly-in debate;
"Hey buddy, I think you have o-fat-slup" <g>
Dan
Message 7
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| Subject: | Source and description of BNC and solder. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chris Stone" <Chris.Stone@a-dec.com>
Try...
www.mcmelectronics.com
Chris Stone
RV-8 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Fogerson [mailto:rickf@cableone.net]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Source and description of BNC and solder.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson"
--> <rickf@cableone.net>
Does anyone know of a source for solder type BNC connectors? My local
Radio Shack only had screw type and crimp type.
Solder: I have some "60/40 rosin core" type soldier. I suppose this
stuff is not recommended for electronics. If not, what should I get and
where?
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 finish kit
Boise, ID
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: LOM OVP System |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wolfgang Trinks" <Wolfgang.Trinks@flugbereitschaft.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: LOM OVP System
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 12:38 PM 5/11/2003 +0200, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wolfgang Trinks"
> ><Wolfgang.Trinks@flugbereitschaft.com>
> >
> >Hello Bob,
> >
>
> <snip>
>
>
> >So looking at your drawing Z-18 raises a question of what I wood be
> >interested in your opinion:
> >
> >Would it be ok related to the failure scenarios of a mechanical regulator
to
> >only use the GENERATOR FIELD DISCONNECT RELAY to cut the field in an
> >OVP-event and to rely on the reverse current cuttoff relay consisted in
the
> >regulator to disconnect the D+ line from the B+ line due to the resulting
> >breakdown of the generator output?
>
> I guess it depends on the failure mode. Not having intimate
> details on the construction of the regulator, I cannot
> deduce failure modes and behavior in modes unique to
> that product.
>
>
> >Do you have experience with this LUN regulator?
>
> No.
>
> >I have studied the little scematic in the cap and came to the opinion
that
> >it is a 3 point type (cutout, voltage and current) where 2 contacts(
cutout
> >and current) are located on one coil core.
>
> Interesting . . . I'm having trouble figuring out how that works.
Normally
> a current limit contactor closes on decrease of magnetic field while a
> cutout contact closes on increase of magnetic field. I can sorta see
> how you might be clever and design both current and voltage limits
> onto the same coil reverse current on the other . . .
>
I will explain my assumptions. For that I have put a picture with 3 figures
of the schematic of the regulatur in the photoshare list. Title: LUN
Regulator. Up to it is not availible yet. As soon as it shows up ill do.
I am in vacation now till 1. of june
Wolfgang
> >I have to admit that I do not fully understand the functionality of the
PR
> >pin. It seems to me to be a potential paralleling in/output for a
> >2-Generator system.
>
>
> That's HAS been done so your suggestion is not unreasonable
>
> >Nevertheless I have meassured that it is normally open and if the cutout
> >relay is connecting the generator voltage shows up there after passing a
> >coil on the voltage relay.
>
>
> >If one knew the effects on the voltage regulation( so to avoid influance
> >there) it would be a positive possible indication for generator operation
> >because it shows the state of the cutout relay.
>
> The most common failure I've seen in electro-mechanical regulators
> to create and ov condition is broken wire on the voltage control
> coil. Of course, breaking the field lead will mitigate the ov
> condition. My reasoning for opening this one lead was that should
> the reverse current cutout be stuck shut as well, the upstream
> protection (fusible link, breaker or fuse) would open due to high
> value of current flowing back into the generator.
>
> One could make the ov relay a two-pole device to open BOTH
> field and output leads . . . be sure to do BOTH. If you open
> only the output lead, the ov condition will continue on the
> generator and it will happily commit suicide by burning up
> it's own field windings.
>
> You could also consider a faster acting output protection like
> a fuse . . . it can be pretty large compared to generator output
> 'cause the overload will be severe if the field lead is opended
> and the reverse current relay in the regulator doesn't react
> properly.
>
> Welcome to the Aero-Electric List. Hope you'll hang around
> an participate in some really cool discussions.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: sifting good stuff out of the noise |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:12 AM 5/22/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
>
>Bob coins a new aviation acronym:
>
><<OFATSULP syndrome . . . (Opinions Founded on Anecdotes and Tradition Sans
>Understanding of Logic or Physics)
>
> I love it! However, it will probably get you punched in a fly-in
> debate;
>"Hey buddy, I think you have o-fat-slup" <g>
Sounds good to me . . . suppose we can get it added to the
the glossary of alphanumerical secret codes in the FAR/AIM?
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Any standard for keyswitch orientation ? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Hi all,
Is there a commonly accepted standard or trend for the mag keyswitch
orientation on the panel ?
I mean, for instance key entry at 10 o'clock, and 'BOTH' position at 2
o'clock or else.
We were having a discussion on the subject, and when the question arose I
got stuck.
Thanks for any input,
Regards,
Gilles
Message 11
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| Subject: | Any standard for keyswitch orientation ? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
I don't know if it's a standard, but the current production Cessna
Singles have the off position at 10 o'clock, R at 11 o'clock, L at 12
o'clock, BOTH at 1 o'clock and START at 2 o'clock.
Dave in Wichita
> Is there a commonly accepted standard or trend for the mag keyswitch
> orientation on the panel ?
> I mean, for instance key entry at 10 o'clock, and 'BOTH' position at 2
> o'clock or else.
>
> Regards,
>
> Gilles
Message 12
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| Subject: | iPaq 3630 Pocket PC repair |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>> What kind of tool does one use to replace it? Some kind of hot-air
gun?
If the connector is surface mounted, you'll want to practice on some
spare PCBs with surface mounts connectors/components first. Took me
about 5 or so boards before I could do an acceptable job for surface
mount ICs and connectors.
The connectors can be removed using a special solder that has low
melting point and seems to grab the existing solder holding the
component/connector on the board (don't remember the name of the stuff
off hand, but if needed, send me an e-mail).
Installation requires lots of patience, a small soldering iron/tip, and
it goes a lot quicker with solder paste but can be done with small sized
solder as well. I find the solder paste works better because you can
just run a line of solder paste on the PCB's connector pads and then run
the solder iron down the same line. The solder paste will then work
itself onto the PAD areas when heated. As long as you don't over due it,
you can solder lots of 'pins' this way very quickly versus the one by
one method required with normal solder.
Good Luck,
Don Honabach
Tempe, AZ - Zodiac 601HDS
-----Original Message-----
From: Finn Lassen [mailto:finnlassen@netzero.net]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: iPaq 3630 Pocket PC repair
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
--> <finnlassen@netzero.net>
Anybody know where I can get the PCB connector to the display replaced
at a resonable price (less than $100)?
Or maybe just a source (and part number) for the connector? It's the
CN12 90-pin connector to the flat-ribbon cable going to the
display.
What kind of tool does one use to replace it? Some kind of hot-air gun?
Finn
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>--> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
>
>
>>Bob,
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>From your Ft. Worth seminar a few year's ago, my memory is fading a
>>little. So I write to use you as a referee over different opinions I'm
>>getting about my intentions for the electrics part of my IO-360A1D, to
>>be installed on my Cozy MKIV. From your books and seminar I thought 1
>>RG battery, main alternator and one backup alternator, one electronic
>>ignition and one mag. No vacuum pump - all electric avionics. Some
>>folks recommend two batteries,
>>
>>
>
> Good idea when you put the second electronic ignition in.
>
>
>
>>others won't even mess with electronic ignition.
>>
>>
>
>
> . . . that's their privilege.
>
>
>
>>Some ask why even need a backup alternator. Perhaps cost is in their
>>decisions, but cost isn't high on my list as long as I can minimize
>>the chance that electrics won't be the cause of losing an engine or
>>radios.
>>
>>
>
> once you pull the vacuum pump off, you have an open hole
> on the engine capable of holding an alternator that is lighter
> and less expensive than the vacuum pump you took off. I wouldn't
> fly MY airplane around with a wasted drive pad . . .
>
>
>
>>(I'll be close to IFR capable, but day VFR will be my greatly
>>preferred
>>operation.) What say you about the above, and would you recommend
another
>>approach? Perhaps I'll attend another of your seminars, now that I am
>>several steps closer to hooking things up. Thanks very much.
>>
>>
>
> You're suffering from the OFATSULP syndrome . . . (Opinions
> Founded on Anecdotes and Tradition Sans Understanding
> of Logic or Physics). Opinions are a dime-a-dozen, some are even
> free. Knowledge is also dirt cheap . . . it's all around us
> just waiting to be picked up. Education is the hard part,
> it takes time and consideration of how the pieces fit together.
> Take all the advice "under advisement" . . . but join us
> on the AeroElectric List where lots of studious folks will
> help you sift the good stuff out of the sand and dust.
>
> Which backup alternator did you buy and which power distribution
> diagram is most attractive to you?
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Z-13 with aux battery -- a few questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
Bob:
I posted this question last weekend while you were out of town (sorry, I
didn't know you were gone). Perhaps it got lost somewhere in your inbox
somewhere, so I'm reposting it now with some slight changes. I'd really like
your comments.
I'm planning a Z-13 architecture with an additional small (4.5 AH) battery
to support one side of a dual electronic ignition in the very unlikely event
that the main battery goes inop for whatever reason. I perfer this to two
full-sized batteries because it offers unlimited endurance and it weighs
less.
I'm making an assumption here, and that is that a 4.5 AH battery can support
the operation of either the SD-8 or a standard alternator like the L-40. If
this is *not* the case (e.g. I should only use a larger battery with the
larger alternator), then the below-proposed system is overly complicated and
I can slim it down somewhat. I just figured that if I am going to install a
second small battery just incase the main battery goes inop, it might as well
be able to make either of my alternators run as well.
Anyway, I propose connecting the 4.5 AH battery directly to the #2 ignition
with a fuesable link. I will also connect it to the always-hot side of the
main battery contactor through a S704-1 relay. I will call the switch for the
relay the "Aux Battery Bus Tie," and it will be open for starting and closed
for all other operations EXCEPT for when both alternators are inop. In that
case, I'd open the relay to split the batteries so I have more control over
battery endurance.
Additionally, the power to the coil in the relay will come from BOTH
batteries, via diodes. This will allow the relay to be powered from either
battery without allowing current to flow from one battery to the other unless
the relay is actually closed. I think this would be useful in the unlikely
event of a battery-inop situation (which is the only reason I'm installing a
second small battery in the first place). If the aux battery goes inop, I can
still use juice from the main battery to hold the relay closed and thereby
power the #2 ign from the main battery. Alternatively, if the main battery
goes inop, I can use juice from the aux battery to hold the relay closed and
thereby allow the aux battery to be available to support either the L-40 or
the SD-8 alternator.
With this architecture, the only time I'd be without electrical power on the
e-bus and powering only the #2 ign directly from the aux battery is if the
main battery and both alternators died -- highly unlikely.
Questions:
Once again, I'm making the assumption that a small battery will support
either the SD-8 or the L-40 alternator. Is this correct?
If the small aux battery somehow got discharged, what prevents it from
accepting too much current from the main alternator through its relatively
small wiring connections (12 AWG)? Is there something I'm missing, inherent
in the way batteries accept a charging current, that would prevent this wire
from being overloaded?
What type of diodes should I use with the relay? The same 1N5400s that you
show on Z-14?
Have I missed anything?
Thanks.
-Geoff
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: TimRhod@aol.com
Bob Could you explain why Z15B is not a good Idea.=A0=A0=A0 That particular
architecture would work well for the velocity where the #2AWG runs in a duct from
firewall through canard bulkhead right to the batteries. A seperate # 4AWG could
come from the panel ground block on the panel and to the batteries via a
different route.=A0 If you dont recommend this then I would have to cut through
the
duct inside the cabin behind the panel run the #2 wire up to the panel ground
presumable on the panel and then back down into the duct to go to the battery.
It would be a lot of heavy wire inside the cabin and onto the panel.=A0 Is there
a better way I'm not seeing?=A0=A0=A0=A0 Thanks Tim
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| Subject: | Re: Headphone noise on transmit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
I'm using a Sigtronics Transcom II that I mounted permanently to the panel.
It just came back from Sigtronics where they fixed a loose squelch knob and
converted it to the high noise version. It works great. The intercom's mic
hi wire is connected to the 760 mic hi pin. On the intercom the mic low and
headphone low are the coax shields to the plugs and are both grounded
together inside the intercom, so I just connected one of the coax shields on
the cable to the 760 mic lo pin. The intercom headphone hi is connected to
both the pilot and copilot headphone pins on the 760.
I say hiss, but it isn't like the white noise hiss you can hear in
electronic equipment - at least it seems so to me. It is a sharp rasp that
is directly related to engine rpm in pitch and intensity. At idle it is
noticeable but tolerable - at 5000 rpm (Rotax 912) it is loud enough that it
is difficult to hear yourself. I was afraid that's how it sounded to
others, but it seems the noise isn't getting out, and is heard only in the
headphones. It is weird - when I turn down the headphone volume control the
noise is diminished, but adjusting the volume on the 760 doesn't affect it.
It just occurred to me to turn the 760 volume down all the way, key the PTT
and see if I hear the noise. I'll test that next time.
This is exactly the same set of symptoms as when the Transcom was not
installed, so I don't think the intercom is a factor. Also, it wasn't
turned on when I experienced the symptoms described above. The Transcom is
not hooked up to the airplane power either, I'm still using the internal
9-volt battery for now.
Thanks for your patience trying to diagnose problems like this at a
distance. I was relieved to hear that my transmissions are clear to other
traffic, so now this is less a problem than a nuisance, but if anything
occurs to you that would help me zero in on the cause of the noise, I'd be
grateful.
Duncan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Headphone noise on transmit
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 07:38 PM 5/18/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duncan McBride
> ><duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
> >
> >I've been fussing with what seemed to be ignition or alternator noise in
> >my radio when I pushed the PTT on my Microair 760. I posted to the list
a
> >while back, and tried a different power source and a different
> >antenna. The noise was there even when powered from a separate
> >battery. Here is the thing: the noise is a loud hiss that I only hear
> >when transmitting. Reception is clear as a bell. What I found out today
> >is that my transmissions are clear as well. I spoke with another pilot
> >sharing the pattern as we self-announced our way into Avon Park this
> >morning and he said my signal was loud and clear, no hiss or any
> >noise. It seems the noise is only coming out my headphones. I
> >experimented and found the noise is independent of the radio volume but
> >decreases if I turn down the headphones, so I can mitigate it somewhat by
> >turning down the headphones and turning up the radio volume. These are
> >twenty year old David Clark H10-80 'phones they don't make anymore. I
> >haven't tried any others. That could they be the problem?
>
>
> No . . . "hiss" is purely electronic. ALL amplifiers
> in audio systems have some noise that is perceived
> as hiss . . . the best are so low as to be undetectable
> during normal operations. Are you using an intercom
> system in addition to the 760VHF or are you using the
> intercom built into the radio?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
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