Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:30 AM - Diodes (Fergus Kyle)
2. 11:37 AM - Stick It-Your-Ear Headsets (James Foerster)
3. 02:36 PM - Re: VERY confused about AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 04:14 PM - Re: Isolation Amp/Mixer Board (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
5. 04:57 PM - Aluminum Cleaner (Randyhux@aol.com)
6. 05:04 PM - Re: Stick It-Your-Ear Headsets (Melvinke@aol.com)
7. 05:15 PM - Re: VERY confused about AMP Mate-N-Lok (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 05:19 PM - Re: diodes (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 05:23 PM - Re: Diodes (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 05:25 PM - Stick It-Your-Ear Headsets (Shaun Simpkins)
11. 05:25 PM - Re: Fuse Block Mounting and Diode Bridge Rectifier (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 06:03 PM - Z-14 (Jim Pack)
13. 07:26 PM - Re: VERY confused about AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors (Dan Checkoway)
14. 10:59 PM - Re: Z-14 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
I would of course defer to Bob Nuckolls on this, BUT I've always
accepted that a diode needs about three times the Reverse Voltage Rating
that it protects. That's in radio work where one seldom encounters excessive
voltage leaps as in aircraft. So, unless corrected, I'll be assuming the 3X
rule when choosing diodes.
Ferg
Europa A064
Message 2
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| Subject: | Stick It-Your-Ear Headsets |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Foerster" <jmfpublic@attbi.com>
These were reviewed in the Feb.2003 Aviation Consumer. To summarize: the Panther
unit requires molded earpieces, and one earpiece is the mic. It is monaural.
If you ear, there is a mute button. It needs ear lube to get it in. You
mold the earpiece yourself. Lionel Lavenue, the reviewer, didn't like ear lube,
but his wife thought it was better than any headset that she had used. Noise
reduction was good.
They also tested the Auricomm and the UltraFlite from Quiet Technologies. These
both are stereo with a mic boom, and form the seal with malleable-foam earplugs
with the sound channel in the middle. The UltraFlite has a headband, the
Auricomm does not. Both author and his wife like these the best, and the noise
reduction was as good as the Panther. They come with various size foam ear
cushions which are replacable. Obviously, these can be shared, the Panther cannot.
Panther can also be bought with a "universal" earpiece, but that was not
tested. After reading the review, the Panther might be best with the universal
earpiece. What do you think, Ken Melvin? Panther is $495, the others are
$325.
www.pantherelectronics.com and www.quiettechnologies.com
Jim Foerster Jabiru J400 50% done 75% to go
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: VERY confused about AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Dan, No one else responded so I'll try: check the archives and search on
BCT-1 and/or Molex. That will give you some info.
I agree, it seems there are too many variables/options/models and not enough
definitive info on the connectors and the tools required to work with them.
There is a lack of standards. Each manufacturer does their own thing. It
seems that AMP and Molex brands are most used in planes. I believe Whelan
and Strobes-N-More use the AMP. Do Not Archive.
Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up O-360 3XG reserved.
Working on Canopy of Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: VERY confused about AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm sitting here looking at the Digikey & Mouser catalogs, and I'm totally
> confused about AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Isolation Amp/Mixer Board |
05/26/2003 07:13:42 PM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Me too Bob, when you are happy with it!
Ira
Message 5
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| Subject: | Aluminum Cleaner |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Randyhux@aol.com
This company makes a great detergent, I have used some of it in medical
applications but have not tried their aluminum cleaner.
<A HREF="http://www.alconox.com/index.asp">Click here: Alconox, Inc. - Home: The leader in critical cleaning detergents
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Stick It-Your-Ear Headsets |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Melvinke@aol.com
I can only surmise that the molded earpiece has a lot to do with the
effectiveness of the passive noise reduction that is achieved with the Panther
unit. I
flew today with both the Bose and the Panther, and confirmed that the noise
reduction appears as good in each. The Panther is more comfortable in that
there is no heavy headband across one's scalp, there is no problem with wearing
glasses (which interfere with the effective sealing of the Bose ear muffs, which
wear quickly and leak silicone gel if worn with glasses), and G-maneuvers
don't dislodge the Panther as they do the Bose. Further, the Panther allows for
the wearing of a hat, which is necessary under a bubble canopy on a long trip.
Voice transmission is excellent with the Panther, albeit with a slightly
different timbre to that achieved with a standard microphone. Clean external
auditory canals are a must, of course! Pressure equalization with altitude occurs
easily and comfortably, despite the molded fit of the ear pieces.
Kenneth Melvin; RV4.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: VERY confused about AMP Mate-N-Lok |
connectors
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:10 PM 5/25/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I'm sitting here looking at the Digikey & Mouser catalogs, and I'm totally
>confused about AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors. There are Commercial, Universal,
>and Universal II. Each one seems to use a mutually exclusive pin/socket
>type.
>
>Then...ok, let's say I've got 22 AWG wire that needs to be connected. I'm
>looking at the contacts selection and there are "30-22AWG" and "24-18AWG"
>ranges. Then there are brass, brass gold, brass pre-tin, phosphor bronze,
>etc.
>
>Then there's what Terminal Town sells, and who knows what that stuff is.
>
>I've looked on a zillion aircraft builder web sites and sure, everybody says
>to use Mate-N-Lok connectors. Ok, would if I could...nobody spells out the
>specific parts!
For wires up to and including 20AWG, I'd go for d-subs. MUCH
better connectors, easier to work with and more compact to boot.
>SHEEEEESH.
>
>Can somebody give me a CLEAR answer about which connectors are ideal for
>free-hanging applications in aircraft?
>
>How about the required tools? Since these catalogs seem to sell different
>crimpers for different style connector contacts (yes, the crimper part #s
>are *different*), I can't tell what's what.
>
>Is the BCT-1 a crimp-all-end-all tool?
I've found that it works on every open barrel pin I've tried it on
including the full range mate-n-lock, waldom/molex, and d-subs . . .
but I used it perhaps once every two years. I seldom design open barrel
pins into my products and use the tool mostly to service an existing
connector.
If you need just one or two, consider the radio shack 274-224 thru
274-242 connectors. They come in sets with appropriate pins. They
can be installed with the BCT-1. They are offered in 2 to 12 wires
per connector. The pins are size in the wire-grip for larger wires
like 14-18 . . . but you can dike the tabs down to make them suited
to the smaller wires.
What you're trying to do is get a joint that looks like figure
5 in http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
The tabs for 20 and 20AWG wire are quite short.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 8
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> > The diode needs to be rated for 15v or more and be capable
> > of carrying the same current that it takes to energize the
> > contactor (1 to 5A) for a few milliseconds. About any
> > diode rectifier is electrically suited to the task. 1N400x
> > series are fine but they are rather small, sometimes glass
> > devices that are fragile compared to the 1N540x series
> > devices that are always 1/4" diam plastic and 20AWG leads.
> >
> > If you look at the diodes we supply on the S700 series
> > contactors at
> >
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/s701-1l.jpg
> > and http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/s701-2.jpg
> >
> > . . . you can see how the mechanically more robust
> > 3A diodes lend themselves to the task.
> >
> > ANY diode you can find will work electrically . . .
> > chose for convenience of application.
>
>Sorry to bring this back up, but the vagueness of "ANY diode" has left my
>head spinning as I look at page 468 of the Digikey catalog (Sept-Dec 2002).
>There's a selection of 1N540x diodes (bridge rectifiers?), the variation
>being the "max peak reverse voltage." It ranges from 50V to 1000V. Can I
>assume that 50V is sufficient? Is this voltage what you meant by "rated for
>15v"? They all cost the same (32 cents), but does "going big" equate to
>being conservative?
>
>Or should I really just throw a dart at the page and choose one that way?
>8-)
>
>I have no clue what any of this means (I am no electrical engineer!), so any
>light you can shed is much appreciated.
The very best way to get confused is pull down a catalog with
too many choices. Go to Radio Shack and ask for a "3A diode".
They only stock three numbers: 276-1141, 50-volt; 276-1143,
200-volt; and 276-1144, 400-volt and any of them will work
fine. Two in a blister pack for about $1.25
Bob . . .
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:30 AM 5/26/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
>
> I would of course defer to Bob Nuckolls on this, BUT I've always
>accepted that a diode needs about three times the Reverse Voltage Rating
>that it protects. That's in radio work where one seldom encounters excessive
>voltage leaps as in aircraft. So, unless corrected, I'll be assuming the 3X
>rule when choosing diodes.
>Ferg
>Europa A064
the 3x rating comes from applications where two diodes
are used as a full wave rectifier downstream of a center-tapped
secondary. Peak-inverse is 1.5 x RMS and the full-wave center-tap
configuration doubles that stress to 3x. A full wave bridge rectifier
is pretty happy at only 1.5 x RMS.
In our applications, you can't buy a diode rated at less than
50v which is indeed 3x that of 14v system but if you COULD
find a 20v diode, it would be fine too. De-rating for
ac sine-wave doesn't apply here.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Stick It-Your-Ear Headsets |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shaun Simpkins" <shauns@hevanet.com>
Aviation Consumer recently reviewed the Panther and the Auri-Comm by
Quiet Technologies
http://www.quiettechnologies.com
The Auri-Comm differs from the Panther in that it uses expanding foam
inserts ( like industrial ear defenders ) instead of custom molded earpieces,
and uses an ultralight boom mike and stereo earpieces instead of the
mono earpiece and intra-canal mike of the Panther. It's also cheaper
when the cost of the custom molding is included.
Aviation Consumer preferred the Auri-Comm over the Panther for several
reasons:
0. quieter, less fussy fitting
1. better sound quality, both transmit and receive
2. more comfortable
3. more rugged
4. less sensitive to cord microphonics ( move the cord around and the
sound of the movement is transferred directly to your ear ), the seal is
not broken when you eat or move you jaw, and the microphone does
not pick up body noises like the Panther.
I've tried the Quiettechnologies product and agree with Aviation Consumer's
opinion. I have not tried the Panther, but I have used custom molded earplugs
for industrial noise protection, and have found similar wearability problems with
"hard"
plugs. I prefer expanding foam plugs, and tests have shown them to be the
best at quieting (even better than phones). The problem is that many people
can't wear earplugs because of the annoyance factor.
An interesting factoid - Quiettechnologies claims that their overall noise reduction
is equal to or superior than most ANR headsets, and in general, they're right.
I
compared them to the much-vaunted Telex 50-D and found this to be true. On the
other hand,
the new Lightspeed 30G offers better low frequency noise attenuation - where it
counts.
If you need a lightweight headset, and can stand earplugs, try the
Quiet Technologies product. Granted, the boom might droop during really extreme
high-G maneuvers...
If you want some enlightening reading on the subject, try ANR 101 and 201 on Lightspeed's
website
http://www.anrheadsets
or the E.A.R. corporation's white paper sessions on industrial hearing protection,
ANR appropriateness, and limits to noise attenuation by plugs, headsets, or helmets:
http://www.aearo.com/html/industrial/tech01.asp#anr
Shaun
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse Block Mounting and Diode Bridge Rectifier |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:49 PM 5/26/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>Below is the result of your inquiry. It was submitted by
>John Crate (john.crate@jus.gov.on.ca) on Monday, May 26, 2003 at 12:49:04
>
>Monday, May 26, 2003
>
>John Crate
>
>,
>Email: john.crate@jus.gov.on.ca
>Comments/Questions: Hi Bob
>
>A couple of questions. Is there a problem suspending the fuse blocks
>upside down under the panel. My plan was to mount them on a platform with
>one end hinged to the panel and the other end fastened to the forward
>subpanel with zus fastener. This fill allow me to let them them swing
>formard for access if needed. Will the wires still be secure with the
>faston terminals hanging down?
Sure . . .
>I need to order a D25 Diode assembly. I ordered a bunch of parts from
>B&C, but they were unable to supply the diode. Do I order it directly
>from you?
No, I don't sell parts any more. You can use a Radio Shack
276-1185 . . .
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
You can join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
Message 12
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Pack" <jpack@igs3.com>
I am using a Z-14 wire schematic and have a couple of questions:
Is there any scenario where a failure on one bus would require you to turn
off the battery for that bus, but not be able to use the crossfeed contactor
to power important items on that bus?
For example, I have a nav/com on each of the two bus's. The audio panel and
transponder is on the Aux Bus. If the Aux bus fails and it switched off, is
there any situation that would prohibit me from using power from the Main
bus through the crossfeed contactor? Is this something I need to worry
about?
Second Question:
How low can the voltage go, when on battery power only, before you expect to
see instrements stop working?
- Jim
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: VERY confused about AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Thanks much for the response and explanation of this stuff (and also for the
response on the diodes).
Question...have you ever used a miniature 5-pin DIN connector in an aircraft
application? I was thinking it would be ideal as a Ray Allen trim servo
5-wire connector, but I bailed on the idea because of the length of the
connector and the lack of a "detent" -- and my being generally unsure about
the connector's durability in a high-vibration, possibly high-moisture
setting.
Just curious if you'd give a thumbs up or down on it.
Thanks again,
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: VERY confused about AMP Mate-N-Lok
connectors
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 04:10 PM 5/25/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> >I'm sitting here looking at the Digikey & Mouser catalogs, and I'm
totally
> >confused about AMP Mate-N-Lok connectors. There are Commercial,
Universal,
> >and Universal II. Each one seems to use a mutually exclusive pin/socket
> >type.
> >
> >Then...ok, let's say I've got 22 AWG wire that needs to be connected.
I'm
> >looking at the contacts selection and there are "30-22AWG" and "24-18AWG"
> >ranges. Then there are brass, brass gold, brass pre-tin, phosphor
bronze,
> >etc.
> >
> >Then there's what Terminal Town sells, and who knows what that stuff is.
> >
> >I've looked on a zillion aircraft builder web sites and sure, everybody
says
> >to use Mate-N-Lok connectors. Ok, would if I could...nobody spells out
the
> >specific parts!
>
> For wires up to and including 20AWG, I'd go for d-subs. MUCH
> better connectors, easier to work with and more compact to boot.
>
> >SHEEEEESH.
> >
> >Can somebody give me a CLEAR answer about which connectors are ideal for
> >free-hanging applications in aircraft?
> >
> >How about the required tools? Since these catalogs seem to sell
different
> >crimpers for different style connector contacts (yes, the crimper part #s
> >are *different*), I can't tell what's what.
> >
> >Is the BCT-1 a crimp-all-end-all tool?
>
> I've found that it works on every open barrel pin I've tried it on
> including the full range mate-n-lock, waldom/molex, and d-subs . . .
> but I used it perhaps once every two years. I seldom design open barrel
> pins into my products and use the tool mostly to service an existing
> connector.
>
> If you need just one or two, consider the radio shack 274-224 thru
> 274-242 connectors. They come in sets with appropriate pins. They
> can be installed with the BCT-1. They are offered in 2 to 12 wires
> per connector. The pins are size in the wire-grip for larger wires
> like 14-18 . . . but you can dike the tabs down to make them suited
> to the smaller wires.
>
> What you're trying to do is get a joint that looks like figure
> 5 in http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/matenlok/matenlok.html
>
> The tabs for 20 and 20AWG wire are quite short.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
>
>
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:03 PM 5/26/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Pack" <jpack@igs3.com>
>
>I am using a Z-14 wire schematic and have a couple of questions:
>
>Is there any scenario where a failure on one bus would require you to turn
>off the battery for that bus, but not be able to use the crossfeed contactor
>to power important items on that bus?
the crossfeed contactor will energize from either bus. Note the
pair of diodes that feed the (+) end of contactor coil from
opposite busses.
>For example, I have a nav/com on each of the two bus's. The audio panel and
>transponder is on the Aux Bus. If the Aux bus fails and it switched off, is
>there any situation that would prohibit me from using power from the Main
>bus through the crossfeed contactor? Is this something I need to worry
>about?
>
>Second Question:
>How low can the voltage go, when on battery power only, before you expect to
>see instrements stop working?
DO-160 calls for useful operation down to 9v, a battery is 95%
used up at 10.5 volts so if you're battery only, the 9v
figure is somewhat meaningless.
Bob . . .
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