Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:19 AM - flap circuit using DPDT relay (Dan Checkoway)
2. 08:00 AM - Re: Mid-Continent turn coordinator -- tilt (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 08:30 AM - Re: 10nF mylar cap (MikeM)
4. 09:36 AM - Re: Mid-Continent turn coordinator -- tilt question (BobsV35B@aol.com)
5. 11:25 AM - d sub shells (Robert Dickson)
6. 11:34 AM - MAC trim gauge & switch connection (Robert Dickson)
7. 12:01 PM - Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 12:04 PM - Re: d sub shells (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 12:06 PM - BNC soldier style connectors (Rick Fogerson)
10. 12:13 PM - Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection (Dan Checkoway)
11. 12:25 PM - Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection (Michel Therrien)
12. 12:32 PM - Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection (Randy Pflanzer)
13. 12:47 PM - Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection ()
14. 01:00 PM - Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection (Greg Young)
15. 01:22 PM - Re: BNC soldier style connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 01:34 PM - Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection (Robert Dickson)
17. 01:46 PM - Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection (Robert Dickson)
18. 01:53 PM - Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection (Robert Dickson)
19. 04:57 PM - Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 05:23 PM - Re: Merging wiring - FWF (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 06:22 PM - Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection (Greg Young)
22. 07:43 PM - Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 07:47 PM - Re: ground plane (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | flap circuit using DPDT relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Bob,
I'm wondering if you have seen this design before:
http://www.infinityaerospace.com/Flap.pdf
I bought the cheap Radio Shack relay
(http://www.radioshack.com/searchsku.asp?find=275-218) and wired it up
according to the drawing and it works perfectly. I'm just curious if you
see any potential snags by using that design.
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Mid-Continent turn coordinator -- tilt |
question
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:49 PM 6/3/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 6/3/03 5:29:06 PM Central Daylight Time, dan@rvproject.com
>writes:
>
> > "Calibrated for installation in vertical panel"
> >
>Good Evening Once Again Dan,
>
>I obviously didn't read your original message correctly prior to sending my
>message. You have a Turn Coordinator and not a Turn and Bank.
>
>My message was specifically oriented toward proper mounting of the T&B not a
>TC. However, the same thing applies.
>
>It should be mounted as the manufacturer intended. You can purchase rate
>instruments that are calibrated for slanted panels. Since the TC never
>tells the
>truth anyway, I guess mounting it correctly would not be as important as is
>mounting a T&B correctly . . .
<snip>
Bob, I understand your preference for pure-yaw rate
sensing as a panel display for turning rate indicator
but I need to call you on the rhetoric . . . a turn
coordinator is just as "truthful" as any other instrument
on the panel in terms of what it's designed to do.
Successful integration of the turn coordinator into
nearly 100,000 light aircraft over decades speaks
to it's utility for service as both wing leveling
and as a panel display for hand flying the airplane
sans gyros.
I've shot many a no-gyro approach behind a turn-coordinator
and ridden shotgun for other pilots while they
honed their skills at the same task. While performance of
this instrument might be considered a compromise of
features found in rate gyros of old, I'll suggest that
the industry has demonstrated the "losses" to be
minimal in exchange for useful "additions".
I've flown both instruments and my personal preference
favors the turn coordinator. Individual preferences
aside, may I suggest it's disingenuous to label
the turn-coordinator as untruthful.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 10nF mylar cap |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: MikeM <mladejov@ced.utah.edu>
> Time: 07:03:01 AM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: 10nF mylar cap.
>
> 1 nF is 1000 pF and .001 mF
>
> So the 10 nF capacitor callout can also be written
> as .01 mF or 10,000 pF . . . and Radio Shack has
> had them since day-one.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Minor nit, Bob.
1nf is 1000pF or 0.001uF (the lower case m is reserved for
milli, while lower case u is used for micro)
MikeM
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Mid-Continent turn coordinator -- tilt question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 6/4/03 10:00:51 AM Central Daylight Time,
bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
> I've flown both instruments and my personal preference
> favors the turn coordinator. Individual preferences
> aside, may I suggest it's disingenuous to label
> the turn-coordinator as untruthful.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Good Morning Bob,
We have been through this before and I am afraid we will have to agree to
disagree.
When I am rolling down a runway after making a turn onto the runway just
before takeoff and my rate gyro shows an indication that I am either turning or
rolling while the airplane is going straight with the wheels are solidly on the
ground I think it is fair to say that the instrument is not telling the truth.
When I have to check the indication of other instruments to tell whether that
instrument is telling me that I am rolling or yawing, I feel the instrument
is not telling me the truth.
If I am flying a nice knife edge, the instrument will be telling the truth as
far as the fact that I am neither rolling nor yawing, but if there is any
sense in my head that it is depicting a wings level situation, it is definitely
not presenting any indication that is consistent with the current state of the
flight.
I think I mentioned early on that I installed TCs in all of my training
airplanes when the unit first became available. I had applauded it's use as a
low
cost sensor for autopilots and felt that it would make a good instrument to
aid in partial panel flying. It was only after several years of use that I
gradually came to my present position. I think the TC is largely responsible for
the plethora of accidents we have experienced when pilots are presented with a
partial panel scenario.
I wholeheartedly agree that a competent pilot can use either successfully. I
now feel that a pilot trained and competent in the use of a T&B is more
likely to retain that competency than one who has been initially trained in the
use
of the TC.
That has to do with the mindset of the pilot and how both instruments
integrate into normal everyday flying, but that is an even longer story and I will
let it go for now.
Your's for differences of opinion.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson <robert@thenews-journal.com>
I'd like to echo some of the recent sentiments regarding dsub connectors and
crimp pins. I've found them to be very user friendly.
My question is about the shells for the connectors. In a couple of places
behind my panel there's just not room to use the shell. I've supported the
wires next to the connectors to relieve any stress. Is this an ok practice?
thanks,
Robert Dickson
RV-6A electrical
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson <robert@thenews-journal.com>
I'm installing a mac/Ray Allen elevator trim servo in the elevator of my
Rv-6A. I've read Bob's article on using a modified dsub connector to hook up
the servo, but I'm not sure how to best connect the led trim gauge and the
switch in the panel.
Both of these items mount from the front of the panel, making it difficult
to install and remove them on a temporary basis during panel construction.
I suppose I could just connect them on a temp basis for testing using wire
nuts, then butt splice them during final panel installation, but I'm
curious as to how others may have dealt with this situation.
thanks,
Robert Dickson
RV-6A electrical
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:34 PM 6/4/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson
><robert@thenews-journal.com>
>
>I'm installing a mac/Ray Allen elevator trim servo in the elevator of my
>Rv-6A. I've read Bob's article on using a modified dsub connector to hook up
>the servo, but I'm not sure how to best connect the led trim gauge and the
>switch in the panel.
>Both of these items mount from the front of the panel, making it difficult
>to install and remove them on a temporary basis during panel construction.
>I suppose I could just connect them on a temp basis for testing using wire
>nuts, then butt splice them during final panel installation, but I'm
>curious as to how others may have dealt with this situation.
Why not put connectors on these leads too?
Bob . . .
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: d sub shells |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:25 PM 6/4/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson
><robert@thenews-journal.com>
>
>I'd like to echo some of the recent sentiments regarding dsub connectors and
>crimp pins. I've found them to be very user friendly.
>
>My question is about the shells for the connectors. In a couple of places
>behind my panel there's just not room to use the shell. I've supported the
>wires next to the connectors to relieve any stress. Is this an ok practice?
Sure. Our targets use shell-less d-subs in some places and
we passed some pretty rough environmental stress tests. If
the connector is used in a system that would give you
heartburn if it quit, then you could sho-goo the backside
of the connector . . BUT ONLY AFTER you're sure it's
wired correctly. It's VERY hard to move pins around after
they're potted into place.
Bob . . .
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | BNC soldier style connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Bob,
I want to use soldier style BNC connectors with RG400 coax. A Jim Weir article
said DigiKey sells AMP male soldier style connectors under part no. A24424-ND.
However, on their website, the picture looks like it has a crimped collar on
the coax cable and the discription says "CONN PLUG BNC RG174, 188 CRMP TIN"
and customer service wasn't knowledgeable. Is this what I want or do you know
the correct PN if it isn't?
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 wiring
Boise, ID.
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
FWIW, I'm planning on using individual D-sub pins/sockets (available from
B&C) for cases like this where I need removable connectors on 24 AWG wires.
For example, at the back of the plane where I want to be able to disconnect
the elevator if I have to...a 9-pin connector is too bulky to fit through
the grommet hole in the HS spar (even reduced like Bob suggests in his
article). In that location I'll connect all 5 wires with D-subs, staggered
a bit so it doesn't look like, I believe Bob put it, a snake swallowed a
mouse or something like that. Heat shrink over each connector, heat shrink
over the whole mess, should be reliable and not too fat.
I'm just a newbie, though, so you may want a 2nd opinion on this...I'm sure
you'll get one. 8-)
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: MAC trim gauge & switch connection
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson
<robert@thenews-journal.com>
>
> I'm installing a mac/Ray Allen elevator trim servo in the elevator of my
> Rv-6A. I've read Bob's article on using a modified dsub connector to hook
up
> the servo, but I'm not sure how to best connect the led trim gauge and the
> switch in the panel.
> Both of these items mount from the front of the panel, making it difficult
> to install and remove them on a temporary basis during panel construction.
> I suppose I could just connect them on a temp basis for testing using wire
> nuts, then butt splice them during final panel installation, but I'm
> curious as to how others may have dealt with this situation.
>
> thanks,
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A electrical
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
I installed both elevator and aileron trims in my
plane. I mounted the two indicators and the aileron
trim switch on a removable sub panel. Everything
connects with a DB15 connector.
See:
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/DCP01826.JPG
The MAC accessories are next to the compass.
Michel
--- Robert Dickson <robert@thenews-journal.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert
> Dickson <robert@thenews-journal.com>
>
> I'm installing a mac/Ray Allen elevator trim servo
> in the elevator of my
> Rv-6A. I've read Bob's article on using a modified
> dsub connector to hook up
> the servo, but I'm not sure how to best connect the
> led trim gauge and the
> switch in the panel.
> Both of these items mount from the front of the
> panel, making it difficult
> to install and remove them on a temporary basis
> during panel construction.
> I suppose I could just connect them on a temp basis
> for testing using wire
> nuts, then butt splice them during final panel
> installation, but I'm
> curious as to how others may have dealt with this
> situation.
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Randy Pflanzer <F1Rocket@comcast.net>
I found the 26 gauge wire a little small for crimp connectors and you
are right, the D-sub pins in behind the panel seem unnecessary. I just
soldered these connections and covered them with shrink.
I know, I know......I used the "s" word. However, in the case of these
small wires, it works fine.
Randy
F1 Rocket #95
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/f1rocket/
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Dickson <robert@thenews-journal.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: MAC trim gauge & switch connection
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson
> <robert@thenews-journal.com>
>
> I'm installing a mac/Ray Allen elevator trim servo in the elevator
> of my
> Rv-6A. I've read Bob's article on using a modified dsub connector
> to hook up
> the servo, but I'm not sure how to best connect the led trim gauge
> and the
> switch in the panel.
> Both of these items mount from the front of the panel, making it
> difficultto install and remove them on a temporary basis during
> panel construction.
> I suppose I could just connect them on a temp basis for testing
> using wire
> nuts, then butt splice them during final panel installation, but I'm
> curious as to how others may have dealt with this situation.
>
> thanks,
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A electrical
>
>
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= - The AeroElectric-List Email Forum -
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= !! NEWish !!
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= List Related Information
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
I wired the MAC with a 5 pin Deans connector. These are gold plated pins
with a very positive connections, easy to install and readily available.
(R/C hobby stuff)After final connection the entire assembly will be
protected with an appropriate sized piece of heat shrink.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: MAC trim gauge & switch connection
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.com>
>
> FWIW, I'm planning on using individual D-sub pins/sockets (available from
> B&C) for cases like this where I need removable connectors on 24 AWG
wires.
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
I used a 5-pin flat Molex-type connector along with a single pin connector
for the dimmer for each indicator. The trim indicator dimmer gets pulled
high to dim the LEDs so it's connected to the panel light switch in parallel
with the wire to the panel dimmer. The single pin connector made the harness
routing a little cleaner.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson
> --> <robert@thenews-journal.com>
>
> I'm installing a mac/Ray Allen elevator trim servo in the
> elevator of my Rv-6A. I've read Bob's article on using a
> modified dsub connector to hook up the servo, but I'm not
> sure how to best connect the led trim gauge and the switch in
> the panel. Both of these items mount from the front of the
> panel, making it difficult to install and remove them on a
> temporary basis during panel construction. I suppose I could
> just connect them on a temp basis for testing using wire
> nuts, then butt splice them during final panel installation,
> but I'm curious as to how others may have dealt with this situation.
>
> thanks,
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A electrical
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: BNC soldier style connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:08 PM 6/4/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
>
>Bob,
>I want to use soldier style BNC connectors with RG400 coax. A Jim Weir
>article said DigiKey sells AMP male soldier style connectors under part
>no. A24424-ND. However, on their website, the picture looks like it has a
>crimped collar on the coax cable and the discription says "CONN PLUG BNC
>RG174, 188 CRMP TIN" and customer service wasn't knowledgeable. Is this
>what I want or do you know the correct PN if it isn't?
> Thanks,
You want the military designation UG-88/U which is Amphenol's
p/n 31-202 and Digikey's catalog number ARF1040-ND
Installation instructions can be on page 299 of this document.
http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/AssemblyInstructions/bnc.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson <robert@thenews-journal.com>
Dan
I'm a newbie at this stuff as well, but this sounds like a good idea to me.
If someone knows a good reason for us not to do this, let's hear it.
Robert Dickson
RV-6A electrical
> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 12:18:59 -0700
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: MAC trim gauge & switch connection
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> FWIW, I'm planning on using individual D-sub pins/sockets (available from
> B&C) for cases like this where I need removable connectors on 24 AWG wires.
>
> For example, at the back of the plane where I want to be able to disconnect
> the elevator if I have to...a 9-pin connector is too bulky to fit through
> the grommet hole in the HS spar (even reduced like Bob suggests in his
> article). In that location I'll connect all 5 wires with D-subs, staggered
> a bit so it doesn't look like, I believe Bob put it, a snake swallowed a
> mouse or something like that. Heat shrink over each connector, heat shrink
> over the whole mess, should be reliable and not too fat.
>
> I'm just a newbie, though, so you may want a 2nd opinion on this...I'm sure
> you'll get one. 8-)
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com>
> To: "Aeroelectric List" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: MAC trim gauge & switch connection
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson
> <robert@thenews-journal.com>
>>
>> I'm installing a mac/Ray Allen elevator trim servo in the elevator of my
>> Rv-6A. I've read Bob's article on using a modified dsub connector to hook
> up
>> the servo, but I'm not sure how to best connect the led trim gauge and the
>> switch in the panel.
>> Both of these items mount from the front of the panel, making it difficult
>> to install and remove them on a temporary basis during panel construction.
>> I suppose I could just connect them on a temp basis for testing using wire
>> nuts, then butt splice them during final panel installation, but I'm
>> curious as to how others may have dealt with this situation.
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> Robert Dickson
>> RV-6A electrical
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson <robert@thenews-journal.com>
Greg
being fairly unsure of myself in matters electrical, I'm trying to
understand exactly what you mean by this statement.
> The trim indicator dimmer gets pulled
> high to dim the LEDs so it's connected to the panel light switch in parallel
> with the wire to the panel dimmer.
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
I gather you've got a separate dimmer just for the LEDs. Are they
unacceptably bright if undimmed at night? I've only got elevator trim and it
seems like a hassle to install a dimmer just for that one gauge if it really
isn't necessary.
thanks for your help,
Robert Dickson
RV-6A electrical
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson <robert@thenews-journal.com>
>> I'm installing a mac/Ray Allen elevator trim servo in the elevator of my
>> Rv-6A. I've read Bob's article on using a modified dsub connector to hook up
>> the servo, but I'm not sure how to best connect the led trim gauge and the
>> switch in the panel.
>> Both of these items mount from the front of the panel, making it difficult
>> to install and remove them on a temporary basis during panel construction.
>> I suppose I could just connect them on a temp basis for testing using wire
>> nuts, then butt splice them during final panel installation, but I'm
>> curious as to how others may have dealt with this situation.
>
> Why not put connectors on these leads too?
>
> Bob . . .
what kind of connectors? will shrink-tubed d-sub pins be ok, as Dan
suggested?
Robert Dickson
RV-6A electrical
do not archive
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:53 PM 6/4/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson
><robert@thenews-journal.com>
>
>
> >> I'm installing a mac/Ray Allen elevator trim servo in the elevator of my
> >> Rv-6A. I've read Bob's article on using a modified dsub connector to
> hook up
> >> the servo, but I'm not sure how to best connect the led trim gauge and the
> >> switch in the panel.
> >> Both of these items mount from the front of the panel, making it difficult
> >> to install and remove them on a temporary basis during panel construction.
> >> I suppose I could just connect them on a temp basis for testing using wire
> >> nuts, then butt splice them during final panel installation, but I'm
> >> curious as to how others may have dealt with this situation.
> >
> > Why not put connectors on these leads too?
> >
> > Bob . . .
>
>what kind of connectors? will shrink-tubed d-sub pins be ok, as Dan
>suggested?
I prefer d-subs for this kind of application. But individually
covered d-sub pins works too. What you don't get is pull-apart
resistance . . . but then wire bundles aren't flight control
cables. They're not hard to install so that they don't have
tension on them.
When you use individually covered d-sub mates, put an overall
cover of heat shrink over the array of connections. Then use
a nice, tight string-tie or tye-wrap at each end of cover
to provide some pull-apart protection.
Bob . . .
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Merging wiring - FWF |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:53 AM 6/3/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
>
>Bob Hi! from UK
>
>Did some light reading of Aero Connection Manual this morning over breakfast
>to establish some guidance over wiring compatibility. Very wholesome! Still
>need your words of wisdom!
>
>In an effort to keep efficient and 'tidy' Wiring, can you advise or confirm
>that it it probably be OK to merge various Instrument Sensor wires in 22 AWG
>unsceened with the Magneto screened wires (18 AWG) into a single loom,
>separating again once through Firewall conduit. I have 22 AWG Screened if
>more suitable.
>
>Regards
>
>Gerry
There is no advantage in adding shields to any wires that share
the bundle with magneto p-leads already shielded. Be
sure to hook up the shields as depicted in several places on the
Z-figures . . . ground the shield at the engine end only and use
the shield to provide a ground for the magneto control switch.
Other wires that might share wire routing and/or firewall
penetrations with the p-leads need not be shielded unless
the installation diagrams call for shielded wires.
Bob . . .
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Robert,
There is a dimming function built into the indicator. It's a day/night mode
affair, not variable. It's counter intuitive to me but when you apply power
to the dimmer wire, the LEDs go dim. I hooked it up so the panel light
switch provides the power to the LED dimmer. I've just got 2 wires from the
switch, one to the indicator and the other to a rheostat dimmer that feeds
all the other panel lights. You can power the LED dimmer from any source,
even a dedicated switch. I figured when it was dark enough to light the
panel I'd want the LED's dimmed too. I'm somewhat electron challenged as
well and it took a while to decipher MAC's wiring diagram but maybe this
will help.
Greg
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Robert Dickson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 3:46 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: MAC trim gauge & switch connection
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson
> --> <robert@thenews-journal.com>
>
> Greg
> being fairly unsure of myself in matters electrical, I'm
> trying to understand exactly what you mean by this statement.
>
> > The trim indicator dimmer gets pulled
> > high to dim the LEDs so it's connected to the panel light switch in
> > parallel with the wire to the panel dimmer.
>
> > Regards,
> > Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
>
> I gather you've got a separate dimmer just for the LEDs. Are
> they unacceptably bright if undimmed at night? I've only got
> elevator trim and it seems like a hassle to install a dimmer
> just for that one gauge if it really isn't necessary.
>
> thanks for your help,
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A electrical
>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | MAC trim gauge & switch connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:22 PM 6/4/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
>
>Robert,
>
>There is a dimming function built into the indicator. It's a day/night mode
>affair, not variable. It's counter intuitive to me but when you apply power
>to the dimmer wire, the LEDs go dim. I hooked it up so the panel light
>switch provides the power to the LED dimmer. I've just got 2 wires from the
>switch, one to the indicator and the other to a rheostat dimmer that feeds
>all the other panel lights. You can power the LED dimmer from any source,
>even a dedicated switch. I figured when it was dark enough to light the
>panel I'd want the LED's dimmed too. I'm somewhat electron challenged as
>well and it took a while to decipher MAC's wiring diagram but maybe this
>will help.
Two level dimming is not uncommon for something that is
basically illuminated all the time . . . like an LED
bar graph. To be visible in sunlight, one generally
designs for the LEDs to run max bright . . . which
would be too bright for the dark cockpit. So . . .
the "dim" wire is exactly that . . . a wire that
tells the indicator to go into the dim mode. Depending
on how sophisticated their input signal conditioning
the indicator may switch from bright to dim for any
voltage that appears on the DIM COMMAND wire.
This would let you hook the DIM COMMAND wire to a string
of dimmed panel lights such that any time they are ON
at any intensity, the trim indicator goes to the dim
mode. Given that the Ray Allen installation drawing
calls for hooking DIM COMMAND to a "hard" 14v upstream
of any dimmer control suggests that this is not the case.
If you use B&C dimmers in the recommended configuration,
there is NEVER less than 4 volts on any lamps . . . the
system is turned OFF by max counter clockwise rotation
of dimmer knob which simply reduces the panel lamps
to minimum voltage for any usable light output . . .
quite dim. If the Ray Allen indicator used a sophisticated
sensor with a wide voltage range, then it would probably
not go to the "day-bright" mode when panel lamps are
reduced only down to 4v.
Suggest you consider hooking the DIM COMMAND line to
some other night lighting circuit like nav lights.
Any time the nav lights are on, the indicator
intensity goes to dim.
Bob . . .
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ground plane |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:53 AM 5/30/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott" <tscott@c-gate.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>I've been following the thread about the optimum ground plane for the
>transponder. What is the optimum diameter for a circular ground
>plane? I'd like to mount the antenna on a 7" diameter aileron bellcrank
>access plate on the bottom of the wing of my Glasair. Others have done
>this, but I'll figure out something else if you think I should.
The "optimum" tuned ground plane is same radius as height of
antenna . . . or about 5.2" diameter for transponder. But
it will probably work just fine on the access plate too.
Bob . . .
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|