Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:02 AM - Re: ground plane (Gilles.Thesee)
2. 03:52 AM - Re: V=IR problem (Cy Galley)
3. 05:23 AM - Re: V=IR problem (BobsV35B@aol.com)
4. 06:53 AM - Re: Ratchet Crimper (Ron Raby)
5. 06:53 AM - Re: V=IR problem (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:12 AM - Re: Power buss feed connection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 09:22 AM - Re: Ratchet Crimper (Joe Dubner)
8. 10:10 AM - crimping large ring terminals (Dan Checkoway)
9. 10:27 AM - Re: Re: Ratchet Crimper (Neil McLeod)
10. 10:49 AM - Re: crimping large ring terminals (I-Blackler, Wayne R)
11. 12:01 PM - Zenerology (Mark Phillips)
12. 12:47 PM - Re: Zenerology (Richard Tasker)
13. 12:48 PM - Re: Zenerology (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 03:38 PM - Sealed coax connectors (Gilles.Thesee)
15. 08:11 PM - Torque measurement with strain gauge (jmfpublic@attbi.com)
16. 08:25 PM - Re: Torque measurement with strain gauge (Tom Brusehaver)
17. 08:55 PM - Nav antenna next to Comm (jmfpublic@attbi.com)
18. 09:54 PM - Re: Torque measurement with strain gauge (DHPHKH@aol.com)
19. 11:07 PM - Shielding question (HCRV6@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: ground plane |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
> >I'm afraid my transponder ground plane is 5.5" diameter. Will that make a
> >big difference ? Shall I have to make a new one ?
>
> Nope . . . keep on truck'n
>
> Bob . . .
Thanks,
Gilles
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: V=IR problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Why not get a 12 volt bulb?
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: V=IR problem
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 08:32 PM 6/5/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
> >
> >I have an 8 day clock that wants 5V for the internal light. I have a 12v
> >airplane.
> >
> >I know if measure the clock's resistance with an ohm meter I can figure
out
> >how big a resistor to put in line with it. Can someone walk me through
the
> >equation?
>
> Light bulbs have a very steep positive temperature
> coefficient of resistance. The resistance reading
> you'll get with an ohmmeter will be much lower
> than actual operating resistance.
>
> You need to attach the clock to a 5v power supply
> and measure the current with the lamp operating.
> Then subtract 5v from 14v to get the resistor drop.
> Your formula is R=E/I so divide the voltage drop
> by measured current to yield appropriate size resistor.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: V=IR problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 6/5/03 11:52:01 PM Central Daylight Time,
jrourke@allied-computer.com writes:
> Bob, that's indeed a great way to independently dim a set of lamps,
> independent of load... but I think Richard has the opposite requirement
> - a fixed load that he wants to dependently dim with the master dimmer.
> A zener won't work for that.
>
> -John R.
>
Makes sense to me!
I hadn't picked up on that data correctly. I guess the dimming would have to
be separately supplied for the unit powered by the zener. More complications.
Thanks for the explanation.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Ratchet Crimper |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
Byron
I use a T&B # TBM5. It comes with several dies. It works with there color
keyed lugs.
Best regards
Ron Raby
----- Original Message -----
From: "Byron & Jean" <byronjean@ticon.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Ratchet Crimper
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Byron & Jean"
<byronjean@ticon.net>
>
> Bob & List:
> I'm looking for a quality ratchet crimper and lugs for #2 & #4 welding
cable. I'm trying not to buy the real expensive ones, unless I have too. Any
recommendations would be appreciated.
> Thanks
> Byron
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: V=IR problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:26 AM 6/6/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 6/5/03 11:17:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
>richard@riley.net writes:
>
> > My understanding was that a Zener wouldn't let me dim the internal
> lighting
> >
> > with the rest of the panel. If I'm wrong, please let me know.
> >
>
>Good Evening Richard,
>
>I am definitely one of those electrically challenged types, but I have used
>Zeners for dimming purposes. What is so nice about a Zener is that it drops
>the voltage to the required voltage regardless of what the load is. I
>guess I
>should say; as long as the load is within the capacity of the zener.
>
>The first time I used one was to dim a set of four GPS annunciator lights.
>Since they were sometimes all on at the same time and other times only one or
>two were on, a resistor wouldn't work. The zener did the job perfectly. I
>think it is all just magic!
>
>Surely, some of the folks on this list will explain it much better than I
>can.
A zener has a relatively constant voltage drop. So, Consider
a 5v lamp in series with a 9v resistor to run full bright from
a 14v supply. At 14v, all lamps will be max bright.
Reducing dimming supply voltage by say, 2 volts, will drop
the supply to 14v string by (2/14)*100 or 14%. Voltage on
the 5v string will go down by 2v as well. (2/5)*100 is
40%. Reducing dimming supply still further to say 9V will
have the 14v string about half-bright, the 5v string
will be dark.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Power buss feed connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:44 AM 6/5/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Paul Wilson <pwilson@climber.org>
>
>Or one could get the male faston adapter meant to be used for the battery
>bolt. It has three tabs and one big slot for a big battery bolt. For use
>with smaller bolts we use on the airplane one could solder the correct
>ring terminal to get rid of the slot. I think I got them at either Radio
>Shack or at an Auto supply place.
> Paul
>========
>
>At 7:52 AM -0400 6/5/03, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
> <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> >
> >RE: Power buss feed connection
> >
> >Bob or anyone, what is the preferred method for connecting the primary +
> >feed to the main buss or other power buss? As I see it, one could connect
> >it to one of the PIDG and put a large rated fuse in it or is it better to
> >connect it to the metal screw post at the end of the buss? What other use
> >could the metal screw post be used for?
> >
> >Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up O-360 3XG reserved.
> >Starting to work with Bob's power busses
The treaded post on the end of the fuseblock was designed
to be the feedpoint for the bus. If you perceive some design
advantage in an alternative configuration, can you support
it with a dissertation of simple ideas upon which the
whole is founded?
Not trying to be preachy or sanctimonious here. In fact,
a good designer has to acknowledge that there could be
a suite of configurations based on good assemblage
of simple ideas. It then becomes a trade-off based on
complexity, cost of ownership, efficiency, etc. There may
a number of ways to skin a cat but one of them will be most
attractive depending on circumstances other than skinning
technique.
So, if you have an alternative configuration to consider,
pull together the underlying pieces that hold it up.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Ratchet Crimper |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe Dubner <jdubner@yahoo.com>
Byron,
Although not exactly what you asked for (a ratchet crimper), a Nicopress
tool does a good job on the big terminals.
--
Joe
Long-EZ 821RP
Clarkston, WA
[original message]
==================
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Byron & Jean"
<byronjean@ticon.net>
Bob & List:
I'm looking for a quality ratchet crimper and lugs for #2 & #4 welding
cable. I'm trying not to buy the real expensive ones, unless I have too.
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks
Byron
_
Message 8
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| Subject: | crimping large ring terminals |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
This may be a silly question, but what tool is used to crimp terminals for
wires larger than 10 AWG?
I have a vinyl insulated ring terminal for a #8 wire (source: Van's basic
wiring kit) but no tool (that I know of) to crimp it with. Should I scrap
it and solder/heat-shrink it instead? I'm just as happy doing that if I
have to buy YET another expensive tool.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Ratchet Crimper |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
I was able to rent some from the local electrical supply house.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe
Dubner
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Ratchet Crimper
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe Dubner <jdubner@yahoo.com>
Byron,
Although not exactly what you asked for (a ratchet crimper), a Nicopress
tool does a good job on the big terminals.
--
Joe
Long-EZ 821RP
Clarkston, WA
[original message]
==================
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Byron & Jean"
<byronjean@ticon.net>
Bob & List:
I'm looking for a quality ratchet crimper and lugs for #2 & #4 welding
cable. I'm trying not to buy the real expensive ones, unless I have too.
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks
Byron
_
Message 10
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| Subject: | crimping large ring terminals |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "I-Blackler, Wayne R" <wayne.blackler@boeing.com>
Bob's solder and heat shrink method works extremely well for 8WAG to 2AWG and is
simple, effective and perfectly acceptable for our aeroplanes. I completed
mine (2AWG and 4AWG) last weekend and saved $300-$600 on hand crimpers. Now, if
you really desperately want to crimp, you can get it done, but remember to verify
clocking with the person doing your crimping.
Cheers
- Wayne Blackler
IO-360 Long EZ
Getting closer...
Seattle, USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan@rvproject.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: crimping large ring terminals
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
This may be a silly question, but what tool is used to crimp terminals for
wires larger than 10 AWG?
I have a vinyl insulated ring terminal for a #8 wire (source: Van's basic
wiring kit) but no tool (that I know of) to crimp it with. Should I scrap
it and solder/heat-shrink it instead? I'm just as happy doing that if I
have to buy YET another expensive tool.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Since the subject of using zeners for dimming control is being
discussed, could someone please offer an explanation of how they work?
The little bit of research I have done says they are intentionally
reverse-biased diodes that conduct when their rated voltage level is
reached. If this is correct, how does this act like anything more than
a switch with a voltage threshold?
Mark do not archive
Message 12
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
You have it correct. But "conduct" doesn't mean that they suddenly go
to zero ohms or zero volts.
What happens (simplified) is that as long as the voltage across the
zener is above whatever the zener voltage is it will conduct vigorously.
If the voltage drops below that threshold it does not conduct. If you
connect in series a variable voltage source, a 5V zener and a resistor,
the zener will not conduct anything until the voltage rises to 5V. As
the voltage is increased beyond that, say to 7V, the zener still has 5
volts across but now the resistor will have 2 volts across it. If you
raise the voltage to 10 volts, the zener will still have 5V across it
but now the resistor will have 5 volts across it.
So, in essence, the zener does nothing more than subtract the zener
voltage from a series circuit.
Dick Tasker
Mark Phillips wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
>Since the subject of using zeners for dimming control is being
>discussed, could someone please offer an explanation of how they work?
>The little bit of research I have done says they are intentionally
>reverse-biased diodes that conduct when their rated voltage level is
>reached. If this is correct, how does this act like anything more than
>a switch with a voltage threshold?
>
>Mark do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:58 PM 6/6/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
>Since the subject of using zeners for dimming control is being
>discussed, could someone please offer an explanation of how they work?
>The little bit of research I have done says they are intentionally
>reverse-biased diodes that conduct when their rated voltage level is
>reached. If this is correct, how does this act like anything more than
>a switch with a voltage threshold?
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/robert.booth/uni/docs/Industrial%20Electronics.pdf
http://www.americanmicrosemi.com/tutorials/zener.htm
http://jever.phys.ualberta.ca/~gingrich/phys395/notes/node60.html
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/zener.html
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/zenereg.html#c1
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electronic/limiter.html#c1
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Sealed coax connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Hi Bob and all,
Found in old issues of Avionics magazine some adds from Pic wire. They talk
about sealed BNC and TNC connectors to prevent moisture problems.
Any opinions ?
Regards
Gilles
Message 15
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| Subject: | Torque measurement with strain gauge |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: jmfpublic@attbi.com
Bob or anyone,
I'm installing a Blue Mountain EFIS and this allows me to set up 'instrument
gauges' with any label that I want, as long as I can get an analog voltage to
represent the measurement. I would like to measure HP output from the engine.
HP=(Torque)(RPM)/5252. Strain gauges are old technology with which I have no
experience. A strain gauge on the prop shaft is hard to interface. Power and
signal must pass either sliding rings and brushes :>(( or else use some
magnetic and optical coupling. However, strain gauges on the engine mount
would be easy to connect, but I'm not sure that I could separate torque moments
from the linear stresses of just holding the weight of the engine. I believe
that there are strain gauges with a 45 degree pattern that respond to torque
more than to linear stress, but I hardly know where to start reading. Or, has
anyone tried this and found that it is impossible? I did send off to Omega for
some literature. I envision building a Wheatstone bridge arrangement feeding
an instrumentation amplifier. Any thoughts/pearls/war stories?
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Torque measurement with strain gauge |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tom Brusehaver <cozytom@mn.rr.com>
This months Circuit Cellar had an article about a
horsepower monitor for an automobile
http://www.circuitcellar.com/flash2002/second.htm
They used a RF link from the drive shaft to the
monitor CPU.
Something to think about, prop hub or something for
a light weight RF unit.
jmfpublic@attbi.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: jmfpublic@attbi.com
>
> Bob or anyone,
> I'm installing a Blue Mountain EFIS and this allows me to set up 'instrument
> gauges' with any label that I want, as long as I can get an analog voltage to
> represent the measurement. I would like to measure HP output from the engine.
> HP=(Torque)(RPM)/5252. Strain gauges are old technology with which I have no
> experience. A strain gauge on the prop shaft is hard to interface. Power and
> signal must pass either sliding rings and brushes :>(( or else use some
> magnetic and optical coupling. However, strain gauges on the engine mount
> would be easy to connect, but I'm not sure that I could separate torque moments
> from the linear stresses of just holding the weight of the engine. I believe
> that there are strain gauges with a 45 degree pattern that respond to torque
> more than to linear stress, but I hardly know where to start reading. Or, has
> anyone tried this and found that it is impossible? I did send off to Omega for
> some literature. I envision building a Wheatstone bridge arrangement feeding
> an instrumentation amplifier. Any thoughts/pearls/war stories?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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<Aeroelectric-List@matronics.com> (Aeroelectric-List)
| Subject: | Nav antenna next to Comm |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: jmfpublic@attbi.com
Bob, or anyone,
I have a Jabiru J400 with the comm antenna in the vertical fin, just ahead of
the rudder. There is a channel in the horizontal stabalizer where the elevator
lies with a perfect fit for some one inch wide brass strip, possibly 0.020
thick. This would give a broadband, low Q horizontally polarized antenna. My
receiver is a UPS SL-30, a modern design. Will I have cross-talk problems
transmitting on the comm frequencies while receiving VOR, or using the third
harmonic of the antenna for glide-slope?
Jim Foerster
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Torque measurement with strain gauge |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
The Vishay Measurements Group website has a vast quantity of info about
strain gauges. They sell Wheatstone bridge arrangements on a single guage.
Try:
http://www.vishay.com/brands/measurements_group/guide/guide.htm
I did a project with a Wheatstone on a prop shaft using radio to get the
signal off the shaft, but it was a pain. Slip rings can have noise problems.
If you cook up a easy way to do it, drop me a line <g>.
Strain gauges on the motor mount tubes doesn't sound very practical.
Dan.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Shielding question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Bob:
Hoping for your expert opinion. I am using a SoftCom ATC-2P intercom with a
KX-125 Navcom. The factory prewired harness for the intercom has only
unshielded wires. I have installed it as received but I have routed the mic and
phone jack wiring so as to keep them at least 2 inches away from other wires
except for a span of about 3 inches where all the wiring passes through one panel.
Now I am installing the KX-125, for which I have to fabricate the harness,
and the wiring diagram calls for shielding on the connections to the intercom.
This would require disassembly and rewiring of the installed intercom harness.
My question is, if I keep the audio and mic key wires separate from other
wires, is it reasonable to expect that I can forego shielding on these lines, or
should I "bite the bullet" and rework the intercom harness now? BTW, I am
using your single point "forest of tabs" for all grounds, including avionics
grounds, except the strobes, nav lights and landing lights in the wing tips.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward and finishing electrical
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
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