Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:14 AM - Re: Re: Mom-on toggle (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 06:37 AM - Re: D-Sub for Idiots (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 06:54 AM - Smoking a fusible link (czechsix@juno.com)
4. 07:03 AM - Re: Engine torque measurement (Scott Bilinski)
5. 07:12 AM - Re: Engine torque measurement (DHPHKH@aol.com)
6. 07:44 AM - Re: Engine torque measurement (BobsV35B@aol.com)
7. 07:50 AM - Re: Engine torque measurement (BobsV35B@aol.com)
8. 08:28 AM - Avionics switch (Philip Hildebrand)
9. 08:29 AM - Oil Level Switch (Rogers, Bob J.)
10. 09:01 AM - Re: Avionics switch (Matt Prather)
11. 09:01 AM - Re: Avionics switch (Matt Prather)
12. 09:18 AM - Re: Oil Level Switch (Ed Anderson)
13. 09:43 AM - Re: Avionics switch (Philip Hildebrand)
14. 09:50 AM - Re: Sealed coax connectors (Gilles.Thesee)
15. 10:06 AM - Cable Tie Mounts (Steve Richard)
16. 10:06 AM - Comm antenna port to handheld questions (Gilles.Thesee)
17. 10:43 AM - Re: Cable Tie Mounts ()
18. 11:36 AM - Re: Cable Tie Mounts (Scott Bilinski)
19. 11:39 AM - Re: Cable Tie Mounts (Ron Raby)
20. 12:11 PM - Re: Engine torque measurement (Charlie & Tupper England)
21. 12:33 PM - Marker Beacon Antenna Lead (Charles Brame)
22. 12:33 PM - Re: Engine torque measurement (BobsV35B@aol.com)
23. 12:46 PM - Re: Avionics switch (Shannon Knoepflein)
24. 12:47 PM - Re: Avionics switch (Shannon Knoepflein)
25. 12:53 PM - Re: Cable Tie Mounts (David)
26. 01:04 PM - Magnetic Coupler - Tach (Don Honabach)
27. 01:21 PM - Re: Magnetic Coupler - Tach (DHPHKH@aol.com)
28. 01:25 PM - Re: Cable Tie Mounts (Kent Ashton)
29. 01:49 PM - Re: Sealed coax connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
30. 01:53 PM - Re: Oil Level Switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
31. 01:59 PM - Re: Avionics switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
32. 02:05 PM - Re: Avionics switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
33. 02:12 PM - Re: Sealed coax connectors (Gilles.Thesee)
34. 02:16 PM - Re: VOR/GPS Indicator Relay Assembly (Werner Schneider)
35. 02:32 PM - Re: Magnetic Coupler - Tach (Scott Bilinski)
36. 02:50 PM - Re: Cable Tie Mounts (Steve Richard)
37. 03:25 PM - Re: Magnetic Coupler - Tach (Reed, Britt/FSC Salt Lake)
38. 03:53 PM - Re: Oil Level Switch (Benford2@aol.com)
39. 04:39 PM - wire labels (Mark Means)
40. 04:44 PM - Re: Re: Mom-on toggle (Larry Bowen)
41. 04:48 PM - Re: Mom-on toggle (Larry Bowen)
42. 04:48 PM - Re: wire labels (RSwanson)
43. 08:02 PM - Re: Engine torque measurement (Charlie & Tupper England)
44. 10:03 PM - Re: wire labels (John Rourke)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Mom-on toggle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:51 PM 6/8/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Foerster"
><jmfpublic@attbi.com>
>
>Larry and Bob,
>I looked up the Carling switch 6FB5H-73-XA, Allied stock # 683-5121, and
>find that it is a ON-NONE-(0N) SPST unit. Larry, you intend to guard that
>switch with the hinged cover which ensures that the toggle is down unless
>lifted to activate. This means that the switch would be ON if I'm
>interpreting this correctly. Two lines up in the catalog is the Allied
>stock # 683-5119 which is OFF-NONE-(ON). Seems to me that this is what
>you want.
>
>http://www.alliedelec.com/catalog/pf.asp?FN896.pdf
>
>Jim Foerster
An on-none-(on) switch simply means that the switch is
a single-pole, two-position switch with no center position
and electrical conductivity AVAILABLE in both extremes. Whether
you hook up to both is optional hence the opportunity to
wire the switch as (off)-none-on or off-none-(on) or
on-none-(on) . . . this is why we don't stock the off-xxx-(on)
versions of any switch . . . it just makes us stock
different configurations of switch while adding no utility
with respect to how the switch is used.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: D-Sub for Idiots |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:03 PM 6/8/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "kc" <samdacat@elp.rr.com>
>
>??Is there a "D-Sub for Idiots" publication available?? I want to utilize
>these connectors. I think I understand where to buy pins, crimpers, and
>wire. I think I know how to crimp and insert pins. BUT when it comes to
>connector shells I am totally lost.
>
>I am currently looking at an application that tells me to use a Female
>connector to mate with a Male DB-25P. I find the recommenced source,
>Mouser, and enter DB-25P in the search window. I immediately get 30
>matches to my inquiry, all different. ??What am I missing??
Same problem as walking into a hardware store and asking
for a "6-32 screw", they come in all sizes, shapes, materials and
finishes. Check out this page from Digikey catalog:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/DK119.pdf
At the top of left hand column you find the Amplimite series of d-sub
shells (the Diary Queen variety) and just below are the 109 series
military qualified (Haggen-Das variety) connector shells.
Radio Shack has 9 and 25 pin shells (I am mystified as to why
they don't stock the 15 pin sizes . . . I've written to them
several times to let them know that there ARE some other
sizes of noteworthy utility).
Looking through the Digikey catalog will give you a good
(but small) overview of the variety of d-sub products available
but I'm betting that the page cited above will cover your
needs.
See center column of:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/DK131.pdf
for low cost plastic back shells. If you don't need
15 pin shells and hoods, RS is an option for local
off the shelf parts . . . buy the crimp variety and
throw away the pins that come with them in favor of
the machined pins like those at the bottom left corner
of page 119 or from our website at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/BCcatalog.html
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Smoking a fusible link |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Bob,
When you did your experiments with fusible links, did you get any numbers
on how many amps it takes to actually melt a fusible link? For example,
if I use a 22 or 20 awg wire for the fuse link, I can look on the wire
chart and tell how many amps they can safely carry without overheating,
but at what minimum amperage will they physically melt through and open
the circuit? I'm just interested in a ballpark figure, like 30 A or 100
A or whatever the case may be. Assume free air (not in a bundle).
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D paint prep...
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine torque measurement |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
FWIW.......I know YAK 52's have a % power gage.
At 12:19 AM 6/9/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 6/8/03 7:06:05 PM Central Daylight Time,
>tomschiff@attbi.com writes:
>
>> I have heard that on the old big round engine airliners they leaned the
>> engine by using a gage that measured the engine output. It was either
>> torque or thrust. The engine was leaned for maximum output and just a
>> tad beyond (lean of peak). So they knew how to do what you want to
>> measure in the early 50s and therefore must be old technology.
>
>Good Evening Tom,
>
>Those were referred to as Torquemeters and they worked by measuring the
>movement of the planetary ring gear in the reduction system. No reduction
>gearing,
>no torquemeter. We not only used them for normal leaning, but to check that
>the engine was producing normal power on every takeoff. They were every nice
>things to have. As to leaning lean of peak, we leaned the Turbo Compound
>R-3350 on the DC-7 ten percent lean of best power, advanced the spark and
>leaned
>some more.
>
>There is nothing new under the sun. Lindbergh did the same thing only he
>didn't have a torque meter. However, he had the next best thing. He had a
>fixed
>pitch prop. By developing the numbers on a test engine, he knew just how big
>a drop he needed to get the engine into the best BSFC range.
>
>The problem was the same back then as it is today, you had to get even fuel
>distribution to successfully run the engine on the lean side.
>
>Incidentally, I mentioned a few days ago that there has been development work
>done on using strain gauges on the engine mounts to develop a low cost torque
>meter. It would be nice to have.
>
>Al Hundere developed the use of an EGT gauge because there wasn't any
>reasonable way to get a low cost torque meter on our small engines. By
>running an
>engine on a test stand and noting the EGT readings at various mixtures and
>power
>settings, we can approximate what was done on the old piston airliners. The
>actual temperature read on the EGT gauge is basically immaterial. The
>important thing is what it is telling you as to how far you are from best
>power.
>
>Happy Skies,
>
>Old Bob
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Engine torque measurement |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
<<FWIW.......I know YAK 52's have a % power gage.>>
Yes, but it is not tied to the M14P's planetary. It's just a tach,
percent of max RPM. Russian training thinking. And you can't lean it either.
Dan
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Engine torque measurement |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 6/9/03 9:03:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
> FWIW.......I know YAK 52's have a % power gage
Good Morning Scott,
Any idea how it works?
I have no familiarity with the engine used in the YAK 52. Does it have a
built in gear reduction unit?
If so, a torque measuring device may be incorporated. However, RPM is also
required to get a reading of the power being developed by the engine. I
imagine such a combination instrument could be built using only mechanical
components, but with electronic devices, it should be a no brainer.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Engine torque measurement |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 6/9/03 9:13:09 AM Central Daylight Time, DHPHKH@aol.com
writes:
> Yes, but it is not tied to the M14P's planetary. It's just a tach,
> percent of max RPM. Russian training thinking. And you can't lean it
> either.
>
> Dan
>
Good Morning Dan,
Thanks for the information.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Please do not archive.
Message 8
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Philip Hildebrand <phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com>
In spite of Bob's recommendations, I am planning on installing
an avionics switch due to the cold weather operations in Canada. Other
than the avionics switch I am wiring to Z14 with a 60 amp alternator and
a 20 amp alternator. Loading for each avionics bus will be well under
20 amps.
- Would a switch rated 20 amps be the right way to go or should I
add a relay?
- If I need a relay, would the Perfect Cube SSR from Eric at
Perihelion Design be a good choice for this application?
Philip Hildebrand
Email: phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com
Winnipeg, Canada
Message 9
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| Subject: | Oil Level Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@FDIC.gov>
I am planning to have a small container to catch the oil draining from the
turbocharger on my Mazda RX-7 Rotary engine (which is converted for aircraft
use on the Mustang II kitplane that I am building) and will use an electric
oil pump to transfer the oil from the container back to the engine
crankcase. This is necessary because my aftermarket turbo is mounted too
low for a gravity drain-back. The electric pump only needs to operate long
enough to pump oil out of the container when it gets full and stop when the
container is empty.
What I am looking for is some sort of a sensor/switch that will detect when
the oil level is at the top of the container to turn the pump on, and will
detect when the oil level is at the bottom of the container to turn the pump
off. I have seen several devices/methods to turn a switch on when the oil
gets too low, but what I need is just the opposite and it needs to
detect/switch at maximum and minimum levels.
Does anyone have suggestions or ideas regarding an oil level sensor with a
switch that works as described above?
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<META NAME"Generator" CONTENT"MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2654.89">
Oil Level Switch
I am planning to have a small container to catch the oil draining from the turbocharger
on my Mazda RX-7 Rotary engine (which is converted for aircraft use on
the Mustang II kitplane that I am building) and will use an electric oil pump
to transfer the oil from the container back to the engine crankcase. This is
necessary because my aftermarket turbo is mounted too low for a gravity drain-back.
The electric pump only needs to operate long enough to pump oil out of
the container when it gets full and stop when the container is empty.
What I am looking for is some sort of a sensor/switch that will detect when the
oil level is at the top of the container to turn the pump on, and will detect
when the oil level is at the bottom of the container to turn the pump off. I
have seen several devices/methods to turn a switch on when the oil gets too low,
but what I need is just the opposite and it needs to detect/switch at maximum
and minimum levels.
Does anyone have suggestions or ideas regarding an oil level sensor with a switch
that works as described above?
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Philip,
What about cold weather operations requires the use of an
avionics master? Just curious. How cold are you talking
about?
I would think a 20A switch would be fine. Using relays adds
to the parts count which generally has a negative effect on
reliability. I would only use relays in a few applications.
These include where the switch I want to use (for form factor
reasons) isn't up to the electrical requirements for the
application. Or, where the use of a relay allows me to save
on the use of a bunch of heavy wire. Or where I can avoid
running long runs of unprotected wire. None of these seem
relevant here.
Regards,
Matt Prather
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Philip Hildebrand
> <phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com>
>
> In spite of Bob's recommendations, I am planning on installing
> an avionics switch due to the cold weather operations in Canada. Other
> than the avionics switch I am wiring to Z14 with a 60 amp alternator and
> a 20 amp alternator. Loading for each avionics bus will be well under
> 20 amps.
> - Would a switch rated 20 amps be the right way to go or should I
> add a relay?
> - If I need a relay, would the Perfect Cube SSR from Eric at
> Perihelion Design be a good choice for this application?
>
>
> Philip Hildebrand
> Email: phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com
> Winnipeg, Canada
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Philip,
What about cold weather operations requires the use of an
avionics master? Just curious. How cold are you talking
about?
I would think a 20A switch would be fine. Using relays adds
to the parts count which generally has a negative effect on
reliability. I would only use relays in a few applications.
These include where the switch I want to use (for form factor
reasons) isn't up to the electrical requirements for the
application. Or, where the use of a relay allows me to save
on the use of a bunch of heavy wire. Or where I can avoid
running long runs of unprotected wire. None of these seem
relevant here.
Regards,
Matt Prather
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Philip Hildebrand
> <phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com>
>
> In spite of Bob's recommendations, I am planning on installing
> an avionics switch due to the cold weather operations in Canada. Other
> than the avionics switch I am wiring to Z14 with a 60 amp alternator and
> a 20 amp alternator. Loading for each avionics bus will be well under
> 20 amps.
> - Would a switch rated 20 amps be the right way to go or should I
> add a relay?
> - If I need a relay, would the Perfect Cube SSR from Eric at
> Perihelion Design be a good choice for this application?
>
>
> Philip Hildebrand
> Email: phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com
> Winnipeg, Canada
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Level Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@fdic.gov>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Oil Level Switch
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rogers, Bob J."
<BRogers@FDIC.gov>
>
> I am planning to have a small container to catch the oil draining from the
> turbocharger on my Mazda RX-7 Rotary engine (which is converted for
aircraft
> use on the Mustang II kitplane that I am building) and will use an
electric
> oil pump to transfer the oil from the container back to the engine
> crankcase. This is necessary because my aftermarket turbo is mounted too
> low for a gravity drain-back. The electric pump only needs to operate
long
> enough to pump oil out of the container when it gets full and stop when
the
> container is empty.
>
> What I am looking for is some sort of a sensor/switch that will detect
when
> the oil level is at the top of the container to turn the pump on, and will
> detect when the oil level is at the bottom of the container to turn the
pump
> off. I have seen several devices/methods to turn a switch on when the oil
> gets too low, but what I need is just the opposite and it needs to
> detect/switch at maximum and minimum levels.
>
> Does anyone have suggestions or ideas regarding an oil level sensor with a
> switch that works as described above?
>
Hi Bob,
I fly a RV-6A with a Rotary 13B engine without a turbo at this time, but
I am planning on installing one and I have the same problem. Here are my
thoughts on the scavenger pump operation.
1. If the drain container fills up and is not pumped down, it is very
likely that the oil will back up to the turbo shaft, push past the seals and
cause smoking exhaust, if this continues sufficiently long, I would imagine
that the shaft would eventually "coke" from the overheated/burnt oil on the
shaft and may require a rebuild of the turbocharger. Not something you want
to have happen very often.
2. If the drain container remains empty (all oil always pumped out as soon
as it comes in) then depending on the size of your drain container, you have
a lot (continuos?) operation of the pump which would like shorten its
operational life (maybe).
Since I fly with an electric fuel pump on at all times and that pump has
shown no signs of wear after 200 hours of flight time and close to 260
engine operation time, I think the simpler approach might be to have your
pump operate at all times the engine is operating. An oil level
switch/detector is simply another part that can fail. Fewer parts = less
likely of failure of the system - all other things being equal.
Here's two things you could do to provide an increased comfort level. I
presume you will have a fuse or circuit breaker in the scavenger pump power
line. Should either blow/trip then you have a pump problem indication and
you take corrective action.
Also, you might rig a small LED in a visible spot on your instrument panel
powered off DC power to the pump terminal. Should power fail to get to the
pump terminal or should the pump short out the LED will go out (of course in
the latter case your fuse or circuit breaker should also blow/pop giving you
a backup indication).
Then there is always the visual indication of your exhaust making like an
airshow aircraft trailing smoke {:>)
I know this doesn't answer your specific question, but thought I would throw
it in for your consideration.
Be very interested in hearing how your Mustang II does with a rotary.
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW 200+ Rotary Hours
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Philip Hildebrand <phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com>
There are times when the airplane is parked outside with the
tanis heater warming the engine but the cabin could be down to -25C.
Further to my initial question, should the avionics bus be
protected by a circuit breaker, or are the individual breakers for the
radio, HSI, etc sufficient?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt
Prather
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avionics switch
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather"
<mprather@spro.net>
Philip,
What about cold weather operations requires the use of an
avionics master? Just curious. How cold are you talking
about?
I would think a 20A switch would be fine. Using relays adds
to the parts count which generally has a negative effect on
reliability. I would only use relays in a few applications.
These include where the switch I want to use (for form factor
reasons) isn't up to the electrical requirements for the
application. Or, where the use of a relay allows me to save
on the use of a bunch of heavy wire. Or where I can avoid
running long runs of unprotected wire. None of these seem
relevant here.
Regards,
Matt Prather
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Philip Hildebrand
> <phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com>
>
> In spite of Bob's recommendations, I am planning on installing
> an avionics switch due to the cold weather operations in Canada. Other
> than the avionics switch I am wiring to Z14 with a 60 amp alternator
and
> a 20 amp alternator. Loading for each avionics bus will be well under
> 20 amps.
> - Would a switch rated 20 amps be the right way to go or should
I
> add a relay?
> - If I need a relay, would the Perfect Cube SSR from Eric at
> Perihelion Design be a good choice for this application?
>
>
> Philip Hildebrand
> Email: phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com
> Winnipeg, Canada
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Sealed coax connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Bob,
Thanks for your response.
>
> I wouldn't make any special effort to buy a super-whizzy coax
> connector for an OBAM project . . .
>
> Now, if it's a taxpayer funded military project, then the
> sky's the limit. You can go for gold plated too . . .
So no special connectors. And no heatshrink, no nothing ?
thanks,
Gilles
Message 15
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| Subject: | Cable Tie Mounts |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Richard" <steve@oasissolutions.com>
I'm building a fiberglass airplane. I'd like to use cable ties to hold most
of the wire. What is everyone using for cable tie mounts? Lanciar uses
click-bond at $1.65 each. Panduit has some for 90 cents each. Both appear
easy to install but expensive.
Steve Richard
steve@oasissolutions.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Comm antenna port to handheld questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Hi Bob and all,
I'm considering the building of a 'cockpit port to comm antenna' for a
portable VHF.
Of course several questions arose.
1) What do I use to solder brass shim stock ? Soldering iron, small torch ?
And are there any hints and tips I should know before launching into the
real thing ? (except what's already in Bob's Shop Note).
2) How do I solder the shield braid to the shim stock ? Just as if it were a
bunch of wires ?
3) I was unable to locate a radio Shack 174-248 jack in this part of the
world. Any one around know a source for an equivalent part in Europe ?
Thanks
Gilles
Message 17
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| Subject: | Cable Tie Mounts |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
Hi Steve
I use the cheepo adhesive stick on type that don't stick very well. If
you put a dot of epoxy in the center when you stick them on, the
adhesive holds them in place until the epoxy cures and then they are
very secure.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Richard
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Cable Tie Mounts
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Richard"
<steve@oasissolutions.com>
I'm building a fiberglass airplane. I'd like to use cable ties to hold
most
of the wire. What is everyone using for cable tie mounts? Lanciar uses
click-bond at $1.65 each. Panduit has some for 90 cents each. Both
appear
easy to install but expensive.
Steve Richard
steve@oasissolutions.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Cable Tie Mounts |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
The stick on types will not hold (long term) if there is a constant
pull/tug/tension on the wire. I use them only when I want to keep a wire
from being floppy/sagging etc.
At 10:43 AM 6/9/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
>
>Hi Steve
>
>I use the cheepo adhesive stick on type that don't stick very well. If
>you put a dot of epoxy in the center when you stick them on, the
>adhesive holds them in place until the epoxy cures and then they are
>very secure.
>
>Tom
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
>Richard
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Cable Tie Mounts
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Richard"
><steve@oasissolutions.com>
>
>I'm building a fiberglass airplane. I'd like to use cable ties to hold
>most
>of the wire. What is everyone using for cable tie mounts? Lanciar uses
>click-bond at $1.65 each. Panduit has some for 90 cents each. Both
>appear
>easy to install but expensive.
>
>Steve Richard
>steve@oasissolutions.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Cable Tie Mounts |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
I have been using varios panduit mounts. part#s TM1 TM2. I sand the back,
put some Hysol on them and use a pop rivit to hold them while they dry.
Ron Raby
Lancair ES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Richard" <steve@oasissolutions.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Cable Tie Mounts
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Richard"
<steve@oasissolutions.com>
>
> I'm building a fiberglass airplane. I'd like to use cable ties to hold
most
> of the wire. What is everyone using for cable tie mounts? Lanciar uses
> click-bond at $1.65 each. Panduit has some for 90 cents each. Both
appear
> easy to install but expensive.
>
> Steve Richard
> steve@oasissolutions.com
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Engine torque measurement |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
BobsV35B@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 6/8/03 7:06:05 PM Central Daylight Time,
>tomschiff@attbi.com writes:
>
>
>
>>I have heard that on the old big round engine airliners they leaned the
>>engine by using a gage that measured the engine output. It was either
>>torque or thrust. The engine was leaned for maximum output and just a
>>tad beyond (lean of peak). So they knew how to do what you want to
>>measure in the early 50s and therefore must be old technology.
>>
>>
>
>Good Evening Tom,
>
>Those were referred to as Torquemeters and they worked by measuring the
>movement of the planetary ring gear in the reduction system. No reduction gearing,
>no torquemeter. We not only used them for normal leaning, but to check that
>the engine was producing normal power on every takeoff. They were every nice
>things to have. As to leaning lean of peak, we leaned the Turbo Compound
>R-3350 on the DC-7 ten percent lean of best power, advanced the spark and leaned
>some more.
>
><snipped>
>
>Happy Skies,
>
>Old Bob
>
Can you elaborate on the 'movement of the planetary ring gear' ? Was the
thrust of a helical cut gear being measured, or ????
This might have application in alternative engines with reduction drives.
Thanks,
Charlie
Message 21
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| Subject: | Marker Beacon Antenna Lead |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charles Brame <charleyb@earthlink.net>
I have an Apollo SL-10 intercom with a built in Marker Beacon. Unlike
other avionics with antennas (Comm or Nav) the SL-10 does not have any
sort of BNC connection for an antenna. The SL-10 antenna connection is
merely one pin in a fully loaded connector. This leads me to believe
that RG-400 or RG-58 cable is unnecessary. The installation manual says
nothing about antenna leads. I intend to have a simple wire antenna in
the wing tip for the marker beacon.
What sort of antenna lead do I need? Will just a strand of 22AWG wire
work, or should it be some sort of shielded wire?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Engine torque measurement |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 6/9/03 2:12:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
cengland@netdoor.com writes:
> Can you elaborate on the 'movement of the planetary ring gear' ? Was the
> thrust of a helical cut gear being measured, or ????
>
> This might have application in alternative engines with reduction drives.
>
>
Good Afternoon Charlie,
I can't tell you precisely, but that sounds about right.
The outer ring gear had helical cuts in the outer periphery such that it
would move slightly fore and aft as the torque was applied. The ring gear pushed
on a series of pistons which then supplied a flow of oil to the instrument.
That was calibrated to be equivalent to the calculated Brake Mean Effective
Pressure which should have been developed in the cylinders to provide that amount
of torque. By using a constant based on the displacement of the engine and
applying the RPM to the equation, the horsepower being developed could be
determined.
I know that regular oil pressure was supplied to the pistons to be used as a
transfer medium. I have no idea how the pressure being developed by the
movement of the ring gear was isolated from the engine oil pressure. I guess we
aviators didn't need to know that detail!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Message 23
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann@kyol.net>
If your load is pushing 20 amps or more, I would look into a SSR. I
personally used the powerlink JR and a SuperDiode from Eric to feed the
avionics/ess buss on my airplane. To back this up, I would suggest
added an ALT FEED switch directly from the battery. Two switches, a
diode, and a SSR should have you sitting nice if you deem you really
need the av master. I do highly recommend making it an ESS buss with
the ALT FEED if you do find a need for the av master. I'm not sure why
you think the cold warrants the master, but it is your plane, and if you
find it necessary, my only other advise is to be sure to back it up (ie,
the alt feed).
---
Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Philip Hildebrand
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Avionics switch
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Philip Hildebrand
<phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com>
In spite of Bob's recommendations, I am planning on installing
an avionics switch due to the cold weather operations in Canada. Other
than the avionics switch I am wiring to Z14 with a 60 amp alternator and
a 20 amp alternator. Loading for each avionics bus will be well under
20 amps.
- Would a switch rated 20 amps be the right way to go or should I
add a relay?
- If I need a relay, would the Perfect Cube SSR from Eric at
Perihelion Design be a good choice for this application?
Philip Hildebrand
Email: phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com
Winnipeg, Canada
Message 24
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann@kyol.net>
Individual should be fine, as long as you keep the run from the
ssr/diode to the buss short. The alt feed directly from the battery
buss should be fused though.
---
Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Philip Hildebrand
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Avionics switch
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Philip Hildebrand
<phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com>
There are times when the airplane is parked outside with the
tanis heater warming the engine but the cabin could be down to -25C.
Further to my initial question, should the avionics bus be
protected by a circuit breaker, or are the individual breakers for the
radio, HSI, etc sufficient?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt
Prather
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Avionics switch
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather"
<mprather@spro.net>
Philip,
What about cold weather operations requires the use of an
avionics master? Just curious. How cold are you talking
about?
I would think a 20A switch would be fine. Using relays adds
to the parts count which generally has a negative effect on
reliability. I would only use relays in a few applications.
These include where the switch I want to use (for form factor
reasons) isn't up to the electrical requirements for the
application. Or, where the use of a relay allows me to save
on the use of a bunch of heavy wire. Or where I can avoid
running long runs of unprotected wire. None of these seem
relevant here.
Regards,
Matt Prather
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Philip Hildebrand
> <phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com>
>
> In spite of Bob's recommendations, I am planning on installing
> an avionics switch due to the cold weather operations in Canada. Other
> than the avionics switch I am wiring to Z14 with a 60 amp alternator
and
> a 20 amp alternator. Loading for each avionics bus will be well under
> 20 amps.
> - Would a switch rated 20 amps be the right way to go or should
I
> add a relay?
> - If I need a relay, would the Perfect Cube SSR from Eric at
> Perihelion Design be a good choice for this application?
>
>
> Philip Hildebrand
> Email: phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com
> Winnipeg, Canada
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Cable Tie Mounts |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David" <David@ChalmersFamily.com>
The stick on type just don't hold up. I remove the adhesive from the back, drill
several small holes around the edge of the base, then 5 minute epoxy them in
place with a strip of duct tape over them to hold in place. Without the small
holes to give some tooth for the epoxy they can pull off since the epoxy does
not bond well to the plastic.
Dave Chalmers
Redmond, WA
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Richard [mailto:steve@oasissolutions.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Cable Tie Mounts
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Richard" <steve@oasissolutions.com>
I'm building a fiberglass airplane. I'd like to use cable ties to hold most
of the wire. What is everyone using for cable tie mounts? Lanciar uses
click-bond at $1.65 each. Panduit has some for 90 cents each. Both appear
easy to install but expensive.
Steve Richard
steve@oasissolutions.com
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Magnetic Coupler - Tach |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
A friend of mine is trying to simplify his Subaru tach setup (two
ignitions) and was hoping to purchase a magnetic coupler that would
surround the main spark park feed wire on the engine and then connect to
his tach instrument, but hasn't been able to find someone that sells the
coupler. Does any one know where you can get one?
Thanks!
Don Honabach
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Magnetic Coupler - Tach |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
There are simple magnetic pickups that count flywheel teeth. Simple as dirt,
and doesn't connect to anything ignition.
Dan
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Cable Tie Mounts |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kent Ashton <kjashton@vnet.net>
Here's an idea Iuse:
take a 1/4 rod and lay it down on your table, cover with saran, then
with a piece of peel ply.
Wet out scrapes of cloth (5-6 layers) on the rod, another sheet of
saran and put a piece of soft foam over it all to force it down and let
it harden.
After it's hard, remove the peel ply and the rod and slice the layup on
a bandsaw crosswise into 1/2 pieces. When you have to attach something
like wires, flox one of these pieces where you want it and then double
tie-wrap the wire to the holder piece.
For attaching things like vacuum hoses, do the same thing but lay out
two 1/4 inch rods and make your layups across the two rods. When hard,
they will make a nice little inverted W that you can use a couple of
tiewraps to secure a hose too.
--Kent A.
Steve Richard wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Richard" <steve@oasissolutions.com>
>
>I'm building a fiberglass airplane. I'd like to use cable ties to hold most
>of the wire. What is everyone using for cable tie mounts?
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Sealed coax connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:12 PM 6/9/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee"
><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>
>Bob,
>Thanks for your response.
> >
> > I wouldn't make any special effort to buy a super-whizzy coax
> > connector for an OBAM project . . .
> >
> > Now, if it's a taxpayer funded military project, then the
> > sky's the limit. You can go for gold plated too . . .
>
>So no special connectors. And no heatshrink, no nothing ?
>thanks,
Do you have a connector that might be exposed to splash
or rain? If not, any BNC connector will be find as-supplied
Bob . . .
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Level Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:28 AM 6/9/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@FDIC.gov>
>
>I am planning to have a small container to catch the oil draining from the
>turbocharger on my Mazda RX-7 Rotary engine (which is converted for aircraft
>use on the Mustang II kitplane that I am building) and will use an electric
>oil pump to transfer the oil from the container back to the engine
>crankcase. This is necessary because my aftermarket turbo is mounted too
>low for a gravity drain-back. The electric pump only needs to operate long
>enough to pump oil out of the container when it gets full and stop when the
>container is empty.
>
>What I am looking for is some sort of a sensor/switch that will detect when
>the oil level is at the top of the container to turn the pump on, and will
>detect when the oil level is at the bottom of the container to turn the pump
>off. I have seen several devices/methods to turn a switch on when the oil
>gets too low, but what I need is just the opposite and it needs to
>detect/switch at maximum and minimum levels.
>
>Does anyone have suggestions or ideas regarding an oil level sensor with a
>switch that works as described above?
Last time I took on a similar project, it turned out to be
more practical to just put a timer on the pump. Run it for
so many minutes out of every hour. No switches to procure,
calibrate, maintain or fail to work. Figure out what the
max oil flow rate is to be expected. Triple or quadruple that
number. I suspect you can pump that amount of liquid in
a minute or so with even a small pump. I designed the timer
so that it ran the prescribed period of time at first power-up
and then once per hour after that at long as power stayed on.
Bob . . .
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:23 AM 6/9/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Philip Hildebrand
><phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com>
>
> In spite of Bob's recommendations, I am planning on installing
>an avionics switch due to the cold weather operations in Canada. Other
>than the avionics switch I am wiring to Z14 with a 60 amp alternator and
>a 20 amp alternator. Loading for each avionics bus will be well under
>20 amps.
How much under 20A? If you do a load analysis of RUNNING LOAD (not
transmit loads) for each bus, you should find that ANY switch will
be just fine. The switch's ratings are most critical for making
and breaking a load, they CARRY several times rated current without
breathing hard. It's unlikely that you'll have any avionics bus
that begins to work the ordinary toggles switch beyond it's capabilities.
Bob . . .
Message 32
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:38 AM 6/9/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Philip Hildebrand
><phildebrand@pritchardindustrial.com>
>
> There are times when the airplane is parked outside with the
>tanis heater warming the engine but the cabin could be down to -25C.
> Further to my initial question, should the avionics bus be
>protected by a circuit breaker, or are the individual breakers for the
>radio, HSI, etc sufficient?
What is the "simple idea" that would prompt such a decision?
If there is a need for "protection" other than the protective
devices usually applied to a power distribution system, there
should be a reason based upon the physics of system operation
that suggest value in adding another protective device.
Adding parts increases cost of ownership, weight, complexity
and reduces system reliability. If there's a reason for doing
it, it's always a simple one.
Bob . . .
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Sealed coax connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
> >So no special connectors. And no heatshrink, no nothing ?
> >thanks,
>
> Do you have a connector that might be exposed to splash
> or rain? If not, any BNC connector will be find as-supplied
>
> Bob . . .
No rain expected.
Except maybe for the XPDR antenna in the rear lower fairing. There are the
rudder bellcrank openings, and rain or wash water COULD get into them.
Cheers,
Gilles
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GPS Indicator Relay Assembly |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
Hello Bob,
I'm finally there were I can get use of your design from last August, there
are two major questions, I can only get easy hold of the G5V-2 relais not
the ultra sensitive one does this cause any problems?
Second question, is there a wiring diagramm for the switcher, as I can not
see out of my diagram for the GI-106A what the pins 19,18,17,16,15 on the
indicator to the 1 on the receivers are for (shields?).
There is the anunciator flags pins, are they feeded by the switch which is
feeding the power for the relais (double contacts?)
Many thanks for your help
Werner (trying to finish the panel wiring)
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Magnetic Coupler - Tach |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
They come attached to timing lights for your car.
At 01:03 PM 6/9/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>
>A friend of mine is trying to simplify his Subaru tach setup (two
>ignitions) and was hoping to purchase a magnetic coupler that would
>surround the main spark park feed wire on the engine and then connect to
>his tach instrument, but hasn't been able to find someone that sells the
>coupler. Does any one know where you can get one?
>
>Thanks!
>Don Honabach
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 36
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| Subject: | Cable Tie Mounts |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Richard" <steve@oasissolutions.com>
Ron,
Where did you buy your mounts? Telephone number? I've tried Greybar, but
they don't carry in-stock.
Steve Richard
steve@oasissolutions.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron
Raby
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Cable Tie Mounts
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby"
<ronr@advanceddesign.com>
I have been using varios panduit mounts. part#s TM1 TM2. I sand the back,
put some Hysol on them and use a pop rivit to hold them while they dry.
Ron Raby
Lancair ES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Richard" <steve@oasissolutions.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Cable Tie Mounts
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Richard"
<steve@oasissolutions.com>
>
> I'm building a fiberglass airplane. I'd like to use cable ties to hold
most
> of the wire. What is everyone using for cable tie mounts? Lanciar uses
> click-bond at $1.65 each. Panduit has some for 90 cents each. Both
appear
> easy to install but expensive.
>
> Steve Richard
> steve@oasissolutions.com
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Magnetic Coupler - Tach |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Reed, Britt/FSC Salt Lake" <BReed@slcrail.com>
The Mini Tach ($30 option) on a twin cylinder kohler just uses a lead
wrapped abot 20 times on the plug wire -
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Bilinski [mailto:bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Magnetic Coupler - Tach
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
They come attached to timing lights for your car.
At 01:03 PM 6/9/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>
>A friend of mine is trying to simplify his Subaru tach setup (two
>ignitions) and was hoping to purchase a magnetic coupler that would
>surround the main spark park feed wire on the engine and then connect to
>his tach instrument, but hasn't been able to find someone that sells the
>coupler. Does any one know where you can get one?
>
>Thanks!
>Don Honabach
>
>
_
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Level Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 6/9/2003 2:54:33 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
>
> At 11:28 AM 6/9/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rogers, Bob J." <BRogers@FDIC.gov>
>
> >
> >I am planning to have a small container to catch the oil draining from the
> >turbocharger on my Mazda RX-7 Rotary engine (which is converted for
> aircraft
> >use on the Mustang II kitplane that I am building) and will use an electric
> >oil pump to transfer the oil from the container back to the engine
> >crankcase. This is necessary because my aftermarket turbo is mounted too
> >low for a gravity drain-back. The electric pump only needs to operate long
> >enough to pump oil out of the container when it gets full and stop when the
> >container is empty.
> >
> >What I am looking for is some sort of a sensor/switch that will detect when
> >the oil level is at the top of the container to turn the pump on, and will
> >detect when the oil level is at the bottom of the container to turn the
> pump
> >off. I have seen several devices/methods to turn a switch on when the oil
> >gets too low, but what I need is just the opposite and it needs to
> >detect/switch at maximum and minimum levels.
> >
> >Does anyone have suggestions or ideas regarding an oil level sensor with a
> >switch that works as described above?
>
> Last time I took on a similar
Guys, There is way more to this oil return from the turbo then what you are
thinking. First, the oil flow rate is way higher through a turbo. Most have a
3/16 to 1/4" line feeding them so figure a gallon a minute. Second, the oil
coming out of a turbo that is spinning 100,000 to 130,000 rpm's a minute is not
a
liquid. it is a foamy state and it needs to sit in a tank for some time to de
emulsify so it can be pumped. Third, it is coming out of the turbo bearing
housing at twice the oil temp then in your engine. You can figure oil temp out
of a turbo to be in the 300 degree range. Now the real problem is finding a
pump that can pump a foamy substance that is 300 degrees and at least at one
gallon a minute and is electric powered. I researched this a few years back and
couldn't come up with a pump. I would love to see your specs for all your
componants. Of course this is just my opinion and thats coming from a guy who is
stuffing an all aluminum 349 cu in. stroker V-8 Ford into my Zenith 801.
Ben Haas N801BH.
Message 39
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Means" <rgvelocity@lmf.net>
Time: 02:00:34 PM PST US
From: "iflyaa5" <iflyaa5@attbi.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Wire labels
Andy,
I tried the pTouch labels with heat shrink but found that being thermal they would
often turn black when shrinking the tubing. Maybe my heat gun was too hot
but I got frustrated after several attempts and gave up. Did you have this problem,
what is your secret?
Mark Means
I make the labels using a pTouch style labeler. They're easy to make and
stick to the wire while I slide and position the clear heat shrink into
place. Works very well.
Andy Morehouse
Grumman AA-5 N7167L
future RV builder
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Mom-on toggle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
I didn't see the option you pointed out before I ordered. Thanks. I hope
the ones originally discussed will work. I had planned on not wiring the
on position, just the (on) position. Won't this result in the same
functionality?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
James Foerster said:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Foerster"
> <jmfpublic@attbi.com>
>
> Larry and Bob,
> I looked up the Carling switch 6FB5H-73-XA, Allied stock # 683-5121, and
> find that it is a ON-NONE-(0N) SPST unit. Larry, you intend to guard that
> switch with the hinged cover which ensures that the toggle is down unless
> lifted to activate. This means that the switch would be ON if I'm
> interpreting this correctly. Two lines up in the catalog is the Allied
> stock # 683-5119 which is OFF-NONE-(ON). Seems to me that this is what
> you want.
>
> http://www.alliedelec.com/catalog/pf.asp?FN896.pdf
>
> Jim Foerster
Message 41
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Thanks. I already have the cover from Wicks. I had changed my switching
layout slightly and was just hunting for the elusive off-(on) switch.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Tom... said:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom..." <tsled@pacbell.net>
>
> Here ya go with the Red cover:
>
> http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/
>
> Tom...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry
> Bowen
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Mom-on toggle
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
> <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>
> I'm looking for a off-(on) toggle switch for use as a starter engage
> switch. Same functionality as the push button that Bob sells, but I
> want the form-factor of the toggle switches. This will be used with the
> red flip-guard. Anyone know a source? I guess one of the
> three-position switches would work [xx-xx-(on)], but ...
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
> 2003 - The year of flight!
Message 42
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RSwanson <rswan19@comcast.net>
Must be too much heat. I also used the PTouch for all my labels and had no
problem. I didn't use a regular heatgun, but a MonoCoat heatgun left over
from my RC days.
R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Means" <rgvelocity@lmf.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: wire labels
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Means"
<rgvelocity@lmf.net>
>
> Time: 02:00:34 PM PST US
> From: "iflyaa5" <iflyaa5@attbi.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Wire labels
>
> Andy,
>
> I tried the pTouch labels with heat shrink but found that being thermal
they would often turn black when shrinking the tubing. Maybe my heat gun
was too hot but I got frustrated after several attempts and gave up. Did
you have this problem, what is your secret?
>
> Mark Means
>
>
> I make the labels using a pTouch style labeler. They're easy to make and
> stick to the wire while I slide and position the clear heat shrink into
> place. Works very well.
>
> Andy Morehouse
> Grumman AA-5 N7167L
> future RV builder
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Engine torque measurement |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
BobsV35B@aol.com wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 6/9/03 2:12:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
>cengland@netdoor.com writes:
>
>
>
>>Can you elaborate on the 'movement of the planetary ring gear' ? Was the
>>thrust of a helical cut gear being measured, or ????
>>
>>This might have application in alternative engines with reduction drives.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>Good Afternoon Charlie,
>
>I can't tell you precisely, but that sounds about right.
>
>The outer ring gear had helical cuts in the outer periphery such that it
>would move slightly fore and aft as the torque was applied. The ring gear pushed
>on a series of pistons which then supplied a flow of oil to the instrument.
>That was calibrated to be equivalent to the calculated Brake Mean Effective
>Pressure which should have been developed in the cylinders to provide that amount
>of torque. By using a constant based on the displacement of the engine and
>applying the RPM to the equation, the horsepower being developed could be
>determined.
>
>I know that regular oil pressure was supplied to the pistons to be used as a
>transfer medium. I have no idea how the pressure being developed by the
>movement of the ring gear was isolated from the engine oil pressure. I guess
we
>aviators didn't need to know that detail!
>
>Happy Skies,
>
>Old Bob
>
>Thanks, Bob
>
Charlie
Message 44
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Rourke <jrourke@allied-computer.com>
I think you have to use the laminated labels, not the paper ones, for
fairly good immunity to heat.. I tested the paper ones in my oven, they
totally blacked out... I haven't tried the laminated ones yet though.
-John R.
RSwanson wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RSwanson <rswan19@comcast.net>
>
>Must be too much heat. I also used the PTouch for all my labels and had no
>problem. I didn't use a regular heatgun, but a MonoCoat heatgun left over
>from my RC days.
>R
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mark Means" <rgvelocity@lmf.net>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: wire labels
>
>
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Means"
>>
>>
><rgvelocity@lmf.net>
>
>
>>Time: 02:00:34 PM PST US
>>From: "iflyaa5" <iflyaa5@attbi.com>
>>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Wire labels
>>
>>Andy,
>>
>>I tried the pTouch labels with heat shrink but found that being thermal
>>
>>
>they would often turn black when shrinking the tubing. Maybe my heat gun
>was too hot but I got frustrated after several attempts and gave up. Did
>you have this problem, what is your secret?
>
>
>>Mark Means
>>
>>
>>I make the labels using a pTouch style labeler. They're easy to make and
>>stick to the wire while I slide and position the clear heat shrink into
>>place. Works very well.
>>
>>Andy Morehouse
>>Grumman AA-5 N7167L
>>future RV builder
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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