Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:53 AM - Re: GPS antenna question (Robert Miller)
2. 07:14 AM - Battery contactor selection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 07:17 AM - Re: dsub variation (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
4. 07:25 AM - Alternator problems . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 09:05 PM - HOWTO K and J Thermocouples soldering (Werner Schneider)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Miller <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
Has anyone placed a GPS antenna in the fiberglass wingtip of an RV?
Seems like a good solution??
Robert
Randy Pflanzer wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Randy Pflanzer <F1Rocket@comcast.net>
>
> Here's another option. Mount it to the engine side of your firewall,
> at the top, on a plate that points it up toward the sky. It will sit
> underneath your fiberglass cowl. That way, it is not in the slipstream
> (it's not visible at all) and the coax run is still short. Many RV'ers
> do it this way.
>
> Randy
> F1 Rocket
> http://mywebpages.comcast.net/f1rocket/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
> Date: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 1:11 pm
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: GPS antenna question
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee"
> > <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
> >
> > Hi Bob and all,
> >
> > Instead of exposing our GPS antenna in the slipstream, what do
> > you think of
> > the idea of intalling it on the glareshield ?
> > Pros :
> > - No additional drag
> > - Short coax run
> >
> > Cons :
> > -Shiny white antenna upon dull black glareshield (By the way, why
> > is it
> > forbidden to paint those antennas ?)
> > -What other inconvenients do you see ?
> >
> > Any advice appreciated,
> > Thanks
> >
> > Gilles
Message 2
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| Subject: | Battery contactor selection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:40 AM 6/12/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>Below is the result of your inquiry. It was submitted by
>Ken Walck (kwalck@charter.net) on Wednesday, June 11, 2003 at 18:40:34
>
>Wednesday, June 11, 2003
>
>Ken Walck
>
>,
>Email: kwalck@charter.net
>Comments/Questions: Greetings Bob,
>
>I need to order a solenoid but don't know which one, the continuous duty
>or cross-feed contactor. I wonder if you could help me troubleshoot a
>related problem and direct me to which solenoid to purchase.
They are the same product to begin with, they just have different
diode arrangements.
>I bought a Vari-EZE last November, which has a battery solenoid and a pull
>cable mechanism that engages a mechanical switch for the starter as found
>on old C-150's I believe.
Yes, the manually switched and engaged starters were used on
a number of engines in the o-200 and o-300 families from
C-140 through C-170
>The problem is that I've gone through four solenoids since I bought
>it. The original solenoid quit working immediately and it was replaced
>with a heavy-duty automotive solenoid. That one quit after a while and I
>figured that the fumes from the charging battery were corroding the
>contacts inside (evidenced by green corrosion inside). Then I tried a
>solenoid from Wicks thinking that maybe an aviation application might
>help, and I also replaced the battery with a heavier duty one. This one
>never really worked well (chattered when the starter motor was engaged)
>since the new battery had to be charged and produced corrosive fumes once
>again, I thought. Finally I installed a marine solenoid that was
>sealed. Its first flight after a month or so of sitting was fine but the
>next time I wanted to fly, 2 days later, there was no response through the
>solenoid. Voltage gets to the input lead and through the switch but the
>output post is totally dead.
>
>I should mention that there is a direct connection from the battery ground
>to the solenoid ground, as well as from the toggle switch ground to the
>solenoid ground. Is this a problem?
What kind of battery are you using? . . . there's NO reason
to have corrosive gasses from any battery these days. You should
be using a sealed lead-acid battery. Poor battery contactor
life can generally be attributed to poor battery choice.
It's voltage drops too low during cranking to keep good closure
pressure on the contactor's inards.
Check out batteries on
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/battery/oem/chem/seal/index.html
my favorite battery for light aircraft is the LC-RD1217P described at
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/battery/oem/images/pdf/Panasonic_VRLA_LC-RD1217P.pdf
This battery is made by many manufacturers and can usually be
purchased locally for less than $75
Given the distance between battery and engine, your
fat wires should be 2AWG. After these conditions are
met, about any contactor should do fine as a battery
disconnect device. The continuous duty on shown on
our website will be adequate.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
You can join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
Message 3
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| Subject: | re: dsub variation |
06/12/2003 10:14:06 AM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
sorry to say, but those screw in termination blocks don't use locking
screws and
are likely to shake loose in the aviation environment. I use them in my lab
with no
problem, but then I don't have an engine bolted on there!
Ira
Message 4
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| Subject: | Alternator problems . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:02 PM 6/11/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>Did I do or say something wrong? I emailed you on the 13th of May if you
>would help me with a wiring problem and you said you would look at it and
>see if you could help which I had offered to pay for. You asked me to fax
>you the wiring diagram which I did the next day, since that time I have
>emailed you 4 or 5 times asking if you had received the fax and so far no
>one will answer me. If you are not willing to help just let me know.
>Thanks
>Elwyn Roosevelt
It's not a matter of willing but of resources. I get 5-10 emails
a day from folks wanting one-on-one help. With my day job and
the AeroElectric-List (both of which take highest priorities)
some tasks go lacking for immediate attention. As I write
there is a backlog of some 300 emails in my in-box that will
get evaluated for potential best use of my time; any older than
30 days will simply have to be deleted.
You have a simple trouble shooting task. You need to explore voltages
at the input and output of each piece of equipment in the system.
Start with measuring voltage at the field terminal of the alternator
with the engine running and system turned on. If you have
no volts, the problem lies somewhere in ship's wiring and/or
one of the devices between the bus and the alternator. Probe
all points along the pathway and see where it's "broke".
If you do have significant voltage at the field, then
the alternator is probably bad.
There are explanations of how all the goodies work
in the first few chapters of the AeroElectric Connection
offered from our website. You can download the last
chapter (appendix Z) from the website and consult note
8 for some further amplification on alternator troubleshooting
suggestions.
Go get the voltages and if the significance of the readings
are not clear to you, list them back to me in an e-mail or . . .
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
You can join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
Message 5
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| Subject: | HOWTO K and J Thermocouples soldering |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
Hello Folks,
I need your experience, we prepared jesterday the CHT and EGT probes on my
engine (4 each) to connect to a rotary switch. Preparing is one thing, but
we found it nearly impossible to solder this exotique materials to the
switch. There must be another way doing this, what kind of solder,
temperature, torches/iron do we need to get a proper connection and what
else do we have to consider doing this job?
Many thanks in advance for your help
Werner
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