Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:58 AM - Battery location (Neville Kilford)
2. 07:23 AM - Re: Battery location (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 07:37 AM - Re: Battery contactor selection (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 08:50 AM - UV Protection (BAKEROCB@aol.com)
5. 08:50 AM - Strobe wire (BAKEROCB@aol.com)
6. 08:56 AM - transient spikes (BAKEROCB@aol.com)
7. 03:13 PM - UMA 12-100-100 OAT Pinout? (DHPHKH@aol.com)
8. 03:15 PM - UMA 12-100-100 OAT Pinout? (DHPHKH@aol.com)
9. 04:32 PM - Q: KT76 NAV Audio Pin (Jon Finley)
10. 04:48 PM - Re: Q: KT76 NAV Audio Pin (rondefly)
11. 06:37 PM - At last, the truth can be told... (Sam Hoskins)
12. 07:12 PM - Re: At last, the truth can be told... (rondefly)
13. 07:22 PM - Re: At last, the truth can be told... (Jon Finley)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Battery location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
> my favorite battery for light aircraft is the LC-RD1217P described at
>
http//www.panasonic.com/industrial/battery/oem/images/pdf/Panasonic_VRLA_LC
> -RD1217P.pdf
>
> This battery is made by many manufacturers and can usually be
> purchased locally for less than $75
Bob & others,
I'm glad to have read this, since this is the battery I've chosen.
I've been thinking I would put the battery inside the firewall, with the
contactors -- in the dry, in the warm, and close to everything. I think this
might be a kinder environment for them. However, I've been rather put-off by
the number of people who swing by the hangar, look at the build project, and
say:
1) they think the battery is too small
2) that it should go in front of the firewall, next to the engine.
Point 1) I'm happy about -- the battery can, according to Yuasa, deliver
about 250 amps! More than enough to turn a B&C starter on a 115hp engine, I
would think. In any case, when I ask the people why they think the battery
is too small, they don't talk about deep current, they just talk about how
big the battery is on their plane, and none can deliver a good argument for a
larger battery.
But I'm wondering about 2). Is my plan to keep the contactors, etc., inside
a good one? I can see what people are saying when they say that it's not so
accessible under the panel, especially if it needs to be charged up, but I've
no idea if I will need to get at it. I've never owned a plane, so I'm not
sure about the level of maintenance involved. I'm guessing it's low, and
that I'll hardl need to get at the battery.
Any information & opinions would be appreciated.
Cheers.
Nev
--
Jodel D150 in progress
UK
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Battery location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:57 PM 6/14/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford"
><nkilford@etravel.org>
>
> > my favorite battery for light aircraft is the LC-RD1217P described at
> >
>http//www.panasonic.com/industrial/battery/oem/images/pdf/Panasonic_VRLA_LC
> > -RD1217P.pdf
> >
> > This battery is made by many manufacturers and can usually be
> > purchased locally for less than $75
>
>
>Bob & others,
>
>I'm glad to have read this, since this is the battery I've chosen.
>
>I've been thinking I would put the battery inside the firewall, with the
>contactors -- in the dry, in the warm, and close to everything. I think this
>might be a kinder environment for them. However, I've been rather put-off by
>the number of people who swing by the hangar, look at the build project, and
>say:
>
>1) they think the battery is too small
If it were a flooded battery it might be true. RG technology
is a whole new ballgame.
>2) that it should go in front of the firewall, next to the engine.
That works too. If there is room for it, I'd go for up
front. There is little difference in service life of the
gizmos for the two mounting locations. A forward of the
firewall location is easier to wire and probably easier
to maintain.
>Point 1) I'm happy about -- the battery can, according to Yuasa, deliver
>about 250 amps! More than enough to turn a B&C starter on a 115hp engine, I
>would think. In any case, when I ask the people why they think the battery
>is too small, they don't talk about deep current, they just talk about how
>big the battery is on their plane, and none can deliver a good argument for a
>larger battery.
>
>But I'm wondering about 2). Is my plan to keep the contactors, etc., inside
>a good one? I can see what people are saying when they say that it's not so
>accessible under the panel, especially if it needs to be charged up, but I've
>no idea if I will need to get at it. I've never owned a plane, so I'm not
>sure about the level of maintenance involved. I'm guessing it's low, and
>that I'll hardl need to get at the battery.
If it were my airplane, I count on having to put
my hands on a battery once a year . . . to put
a new one in. See page 12 of
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev9/ch17-9.pdf
and
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battest.pdf
It's your choice. As for "charging" consider some
variety of ground power connector. See article
on website for heavy duty ground power connector
that will carry cranking currents . . . or you can
include some lighter connector that allows you to
charge the battery from some conveniently accessable
connector and not have to crawl under the panel.
Given the superior performance of the RG battery
for storage life -AND- the modern approach to system
architecture, fabrication and maitenance, it's unlikely
that you will ever need to attach ground power to your airplane
due to discharged battery . . . that's a pleasure
reserved for our brothers not so blessed as we.
>Any information & opinions would be appreciated.
When folks come by and offer their opinions based on
what they know of the past 100 years of certified
aviation technology and progress, you might invite them
to visit our website and perhaps join this list.
If all they have for a knowledge base is what has
gone before in contemporary certified aviation, then
they're missing about 80% of what aviation is really
all about.
Bob . . .
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Battery contactor selection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:11 PM 6/13/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ken Walck" <kwalck@charter.net>
>
>What doesn't make sense about the battery fumes being the culprit is that
>the sealed contactor (the most recent, a marine solenoid) lasted the
>shortest amout of time. Doesn't seem like it could have corroded so
>quickly.
Are you sure it was battery fumes? Years ago, Cessna went
from a cowl fastened solidly to the fuselage to a "floating
cowl" that attached using shock mountings. The notion was
that it reduced cabin noise.
It also allowed rain water to run down the firewall . . . A gizmo
mounted on the firewall might get toasty under a summer sun
and when a shower comes along, a little splash of cold water
would not only cool it off but cause internal pressure drop
that actually cased it to SUCK WATER INSIDE.
Cessna asked us to "seal" some of our products with RTV and
they launched other programs to "seal" contactors and other
gizmos with epoxy, rtv, etc.
The result was predictable. Unless you acquire a HERMETIC
pressure seal, every attempt to seal using uckum-yucky would
have tiny leaks somewhere. These tiny leaks will still pass liquid
water because of cooling pressure drop. The water
that came into a pin-hole as liquid had to get out through
the same pinhole as a vapor using only atmospheric pressure
changes to do the gas exchange.
Turns out, the harder they they attempted to seal things
up, the faster they failed due to internal corrosion.
I don't know that this is the effect you're dealing with.
I offer it as anecdotal example of how root cause of a
failure can oft times be some completely unconsidered
or investigated effect . . . These root causes are easily
missed when the fog of "patently obvious" stresses like
battery fumes get in the way. It MIGHT be battery fumes
but keep an open mind as to alternatives of which there
may be many.
It would be interesting to inspect your failed parts.
Do you still have them?
Bob . . .
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
--> AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "DAVID REEL"
<dreel@cox.net>
<<Wouldn't the metallic paint layer used to protect the composite material
from solar
radiation block reception? Do not archive Dave Reel - RV8A >>
Hello Dave, The UV protection provided by Poly Fiber's UV Smooth Prime comes
from billions of mica chips in the primer. No problem with blocking antenna
signals.
Another UV blocking material used is carbon black. I don't know how that
would affect antenna performance.
Using powdered aluminum mixed into the paint or dope is another method of UV
protection -- this would probably adversely affect antenna performance.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: DAVAWALKER@aol.com
<<Is it practical to cut and splice, or use a terminal block, the shielded
wire
supplied by Whelen with their strobe kits? Sure would make much easier to
prewire the power supply and splice at the wing roots upon assembly. Thanks
D. Walker RV7 >>
6/14/2003
Hello D. Here is how I solved that problem (I wanted to avoid a connection at
the wing root.)
I installed a rudimentary flexible conduit made of heat shrink tubing through
the side of the fuselage to permit feeding the high voltage Whelen strobe
cable through. I allowed additional cable length in a loop inside the wing tip.
To remove the wing along with the cable just unplug the cable from the power
supply, cut off the AMP Mate-N-Lock connector on the strobe power supply end
of the cable, disconnect the drain wire from the power supply chassis, and pull
the cable out of the fuselage.
To reinstall the cable just slide the cut end back through the conduit, crimp
3 new pins on the end of the cable wires, push the new pins into the plastic
connector, and plug into the power supply. The drain wire connects separately
to the power supply chassis.
The plastic connector is reusable by removing the old pins with a piece of
small diameter tubing to compress the barbs or just using a small probe to bend
the pin barbs and push the old pins back out.
New 3 circuit AMP connector housings and pins to plug into the power supply
are available from Terminal Town and other sources. The housing for the pins is
part number 1-480305-0 and the part number for the pins is 60620-1 (in loose
form). Just for reference purposes the matching 3 circuit AMP connector cap is
part number 1-480303-0 and the sockets are part number 60619-1 (in loose
form).
This technique should be good for many more wing removals than you'd like to
make.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
PS: My Whelen provided cable has a foil shield which would be extremely
difficult to connect with pins within a plastic housing as Bob Nuckolls suggested.
It does have a drain wire which could be connected with a four pin connector
if you decide to go that route.
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | transient spikes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
6/14/2003
Hello Bob Nuckolls, I thought that you might be interested in the two
postings below copied from the Pulsar builder's web serve list. No indication of
which EIS is involved.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
Brian
I have an EIS and I have a switch on it. I start the engine then turn on the
EIS to avoid the start up spike. Once the engine died just after start up
and
I restarted without turning off the EIS and the spike messed up the EIS
readings. All you need is to switch the EIS.
Clarke
> A few days ago I decided to make some transient suppressors [filters] to fit
> into my electrical system to see if that helps solve the mysterious and
> intermittent problem regarding the distorted audio [on transmit] reports
> that I have been getting.
>
> As an aside, transient spikes can do interesting things to your EIS system.
> I don't have an on-off switch for my EIS, so early on I was starting the
> engine, and stopping it, with the EIS operational. On a few occasions all
> the presets I had in the non-volatile memory were wiped, and the readings
> were all haywire. Easy enough to re-program, but since then I have avoided
> the problem by leaving the EIS off when starting and stopping. The cause has
> to be transients or spikes on the +12 volt supply rail.
>
> So, I have three filters to fit today. One each in the supply line for the
> EIS, the intercom and the com radio. The filters consist of a pi filter,
> with 470 mf each side of a choke wound on a powdered iron toroid. No
> particular value of inductance, but reasonably heavy enamelled wire. 0.1mf
> caps in parallel with the electrolytics [because they have lower impedance
> at high frequencies], and an 18 volt zener diode across the load side. The
> zener is to make absolutely sure that the tops are sliced off any transients
> that happen to get through the filter, and the maximum voltage that can
> appear at any connected equipment is 18 volts. If there is a whopping
> transient that is sustained long enough then the zener might blow, or the
> fuse might blow, but these are a lot less expensive to replace than an EIS
> or a radio.
>
> Don't know if anyone else has gone to these lengths, but it is not expensive
> to do this. Should at least eliminate some potential transient problems, and
> make sure that the system is as "quiet" as possible. The only difficulty is
> getting access to the wiring behind the panel.
>
> Brian
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | UMA 12-100-100 OAT Pinout? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | UMA 12-100-100 OAT Pinout? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
Gang,
Anybody happen to have a pinout for the above? I'm sure I can get it
from UMA on Monday, but I'm trying to finish up a panel this weekend. This one
has a miswired factory plug, or it's just dead.
Dan
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Q: KT76 NAV Audio Pin |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Hi all,
I would like to install an external switch on my King KX155 NAV audio
(the internal switch will not allow me to turn the NAV audio down/off).
I'm a bit confused looking at the pin out (a feeling that I am quite
familiar with!).
The following lines are listed:
1) NAV AUDIO HI
2) NAV AUDIO LO
They come out of one connector and into another connector (both on the
KX155). Are these the right wires to switch? If so, should I install
the switch in one (single pole) or both (double pole) of these
connections?
Thanks much!
BTW: Flew my newly re-engined Q2 with Subaru EJ-22 Legacy last night for
the first time. Short but safe flight!
Jon Finley
N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 440 Hrs. TT - 0 Hrs Engine
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://www.FinleyWeb.net/default.asp?id=96
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Q: KT76 NAV Audio Pin |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rondefly" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
Congrats Jon on the safe first again flight, that Legasy is a great engine,
I have two cars with them.
Ron Triano
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jon
Finley
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Q: KT76 NAV Audio Pin
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Hi all,
I would like to install an external switch on my King KX155 NAV audio
(the internal switch will not allow me to turn the NAV audio down/off).
I'm a bit confused looking at the pin out (a feeling that I am quite
familiar with!).
The following lines are listed:
1) NAV AUDIO HI
2) NAV AUDIO LO
They come out of one connector and into another connector (both on the
KX155). Are these the right wires to switch? If so, should I install
the switch in one (single pole) or both (double pole) of these
connections?
Thanks much!
BTW: Flew my newly re-engined Q2 with Subaru EJ-22 Legacy last night for
the first time. Short but safe flight!
Jon Finley
N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 440 Hrs. TT - 0 Hrs Engine
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://www.FinleyWeb.net/default.asp?id=96
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
"Paul Long" <paulong@earthlink.net>,
"Chris Whittet" <chriswhittet@wi.rr.com>,
"Jeff Gostisha" <jgostisha@hotmail.com>,
"Eduardo Nixon" <e.nixon@123.com.sv>, "Ken Tunnell" <lycon@lycon.com>,
"Charlie Rodriguez" <crod@siu.edu>, "Sandy Smith" <ssmith17@midwest.net>
| Subject: | At last, the truth can be told... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins@globaleyes.net>
Just a little progress report, here. After last year's AirVenture Cup race
I decided I needed more speed. At first I intended to accomplish it with
aerodynamic improvements but later I decided to go the Cro-Magnon route and
get it with brute force. So, last November I sent my O-200 cylinders off to
Ly-Con in California (they build engines for Sean Tucker, Jim LeRoy, etc.)
for the magic dust. They flow ported the cylinders and polished the elbows
and spider. They also built high compression pistons, so I went from 7:1 to
9:1.
While I already had most of the engine apart I figured I may as well
overhaul the whole thing. I'm glad I stripped it down since I found a crack
in the crankshaft. That probably was the result of my prop strike due to a
previous runway excursion, due to a broken tail spring.
As long as I did all that, I decided I may as well have the crankcase
overhauled, so I sent that to Divco in Tulsa. The cam and related parts
went to D&S Camshaft in Florida. I was very pleased by the workmanship done
by all these firms.
As long as I was waiting for all this stuff to come back, I decided to
completely re-wire the aircraft, ala Bob Nucholls and his AeroElectric
Connection publication. I went after my plane with a wire cutters and 20
minutes later most of the wire, circuit breakers, and switches were lying in
a heap on the hangar floor. I stuck in a new alternator, low voltage and
low oil pressure idiot lights, split the system into a main bus and
essential bus, and drew up a bunch of prefessional looking schematics. Oh,
I stuck in a new strobe system also and recombinant gas battery. Now I have
an excellent electrical system, if I do say so myself. Bob Nucholls is
awesome.
I now also have an EGT and CHT for each cylinder. Still don't have a
starter.
For those of you still building, I can't say enough about the wisdom of
engineering in Bob Nucholl's book and systems. I now consider it a must
have.
Since I am a total glutton for punishment, I decided to also redo the
baffling system. I glassed up a plenum system based on help from Lynn
French and Jerry Marstal. I'll get pictures posted on my web site pretty
soon. They are all fiberglass and I hope they work.
So today, we fired up the engine for the first time. All indications are
good. The electrical system seems solid and I think the engine sounds nice,
but I only ran it for seven minutes and to 1,200 RPM. I have a new exhaust
system on order and that should arrive toward the end of next week. In the
meantime I'm using my old exhaust. There are just a few details to take
care of, and with a little luck I may fly early this week. With a little
more luck I just may make it to Mattoon.
Major thanks to Sandy Smith for putting up with all this silliness and
Charley Rodriguez for helping with the engine and kicking me in the pants.
Thanks to again Lynn for his patience answering my questions about his
baffling. Thanks also to Mike Bergren for the drawings of his wheel pants,
which I'll get to NEXT winter.
So, if all the planets line up correctly and the Lord willin' and the creek
don't rise, I'll be back in the air in a couple of days. I can't wait to
see how the engine performs!
And BTW, at last year's AirVenture Cup race there were about 42 planes and
three in the Sprint class (240 cubic inches of less). This year there will
be 85 planes and 12 in the Sprint! Wow!
Regards,
Sam
Quickie Q-200 ~1,250 hrs.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | At last, the truth can be told... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rondefly" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
Hi Sam, I would be interested in seeing your baffling system, I am really
done with the glass work so a little more won't hurt. I too went to Bob
Nicholls and got his CD and Book, great way to go, I am still reading his
stuff. Today i put schrader valves on my canopy cylinders, will fill them
tomorrow and install for test. I will fill them with the CO2 bicycle pump to
get them up to the correct pressure. Found out about the CO2 thing from the
Dfly boys at Chino last week. With all that you have done I am sure you will
get some great performance.
Ron Triano
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam
Hoskins
Jeff Gostisha; Eduardo Nixon; Ken Tunnell; Charlie Rodriguez; Sandy
Smith
Subject: AeroElectric-List: At last, the truth can be told...
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Hoskins"
<shoskins@globaleyes.net>
Just a little progress report, here. After last year's AirVenture Cup race
I decided I needed more speed. At first I intended to accomplish it with
aerodynamic improvements but later I decided to go the Cro-Magnon route and
get it with brute force. So, last November I sent my O-200 cylinders off to
Ly-Con in California (they build engines for Sean Tucker, Jim LeRoy, etc.)
for the magic dust. They flow ported the cylinders and polished the elbows
and spider. They also built high compression pistons, so I went from 7:1 to
9:1.
While I already had most of the engine apart I figured I may as well
overhaul the whole thing. I'm glad I stripped it down since I found a crack
in the crankshaft. That probably was the result of my prop strike due to a
previous runway excursion, due to a broken tail spring.
As long as I did all that, I decided I may as well have the crankcase
overhauled, so I sent that to Divco in Tulsa. The cam and related parts
went to D&S Camshaft in Florida. I was very pleased by the workmanship done
by all these firms.
As long as I was waiting for all this stuff to come back, I decided to
completely re-wire the aircraft, ala Bob Nucholls and his AeroElectric
Connection publication. I went after my plane with a wire cutters and 20
minutes later most of the wire, circuit breakers, and switches were lying in
a heap on the hangar floor. I stuck in a new alternator, low voltage and
low oil pressure idiot lights, split the system into a main bus and
essential bus, and drew up a bunch of prefessional looking schematics. Oh,
I stuck in a new strobe system also and recombinant gas battery. Now I have
an excellent electrical system, if I do say so myself. Bob Nucholls is
awesome.
I now also have an EGT and CHT for each cylinder. Still don't have a
starter.
For those of you still building, I can't say enough about the wisdom of
engineering in Bob Nucholl's book and systems. I now consider it a must
have.
Since I am a total glutton for punishment, I decided to also redo the
baffling system. I glassed up a plenum system based on help from Lynn
French and Jerry Marstal. I'll get pictures posted on my web site pretty
soon. They are all fiberglass and I hope they work.
So today, we fired up the engine for the first time. All indications are
good. The electrical system seems solid and I think the engine sounds nice,
but I only ran it for seven minutes and to 1,200 RPM. I have a new exhaust
system on order and that should arrive toward the end of next week. In the
meantime I'm using my old exhaust. There are just a few details to take
care of, and with a little luck I may fly early this week. With a little
more luck I just may make it to Mattoon.
Major thanks to Sandy Smith for putting up with all this silliness and
Charley Rodriguez for helping with the engine and kicking me in the pants.
Thanks to again Lynn for his patience answering my questions about his
baffling. Thanks also to Mike Bergren for the drawings of his wheel pants,
which I'll get to NEXT winter.
So, if all the planets line up correctly and the Lord willin' and the creek
don't rise, I'll be back in the air in a couple of days. I can't wait to
see how the engine performs!
And BTW, at last year's AirVenture Cup race there were about 42 planes and
three in the Sprint class (240 cubic inches of less). This year there will
be 85 planes and 12 in the Sprint! Wow!
Regards,
Sam
Quickie Q-200 ~1,250 hrs.
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | At last, the truth can be told... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Worth mentioning... A photo of Sam's airplane is in the current
Kitplanes under the Tandem Wing article!!
Jon
DO NOT ARCHIVE
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On
> Behalf Of Sam Hoskins
> To: Quickie List; thoskins@vinson.navy.mil; Paul Long; Chris
> Whittet; Jeff Gostisha; Eduardo Nixon; Ken Tunnell; Charlie
> Rodriguez; Sandy Smith
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: At last, the truth can be told...
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Hoskins"
> <shoskins@globaleyes.net>
>
> Just a little progress report, here. After last year's
> AirVenture Cup race I decided I needed more speed. At first
> I intended to accomplish it with aerodynamic improvements but
> later I decided to go the Cro-Magnon route and get it with
> brute force. So, last November I sent my O-200 cylinders off
> to Ly-Con in California (they build engines for Sean Tucker,
> Jim LeRoy, etc.) for the magic dust. They flow ported the
> cylinders and polished the elbows and spider. They also
> built high compression pistons, so I went from 7:1 to 9:1.
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|