Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:45 AM - Re: Mom-on toggle (Dan Checkoway)
2. 06:15 AM - Re: Mom-on toggle (Larry Bowen)
3. 06:53 AM - Re: Mom-on toggle (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:55 AM - Re: Grouping wires for firewall penetration (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:01 AM - Re: Another Question, Different Subject (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:07 AM - Wire and Screw Sizes Tutorial (Eric M. Jones)
7. 08:26 AM - sizing of current limiters on the B lead (Ron Raby)
8. 08:27 AM - Re: Wire and Screw Sizes Tutorial (richard@riley.net)
9. 11:16 AM - Thanks, and Happy Trails.... (Sam Hoskins)
10. 12:29 PM - Re: Thanks, and Happy Trails.... (Randy Pflanzer)
11. 03:26 PM - Re: Thanks, and Happy Trails.... (Terry Watson)
12. 06:00 PM - SD-8 Installation (Edward O'Connor)
13. 07:14 PM - Re: Mom-on toggle (C J Heitman)
14. 08:31 PM - Re: Mom-on toggle (Larry Bowen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Mom-on toggle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Larry,
FYI, I went through this same ordeal (although I didn't try as hard), and in
the end I caved and went for the pushbutton switch with protective bezel
that B&C sells. It's not as "pretty" as a red flip-up guarded switch, but I
rationalize the decision by noting that the pushbutton switch is more or
less foolproof. Less flipping and flopping...just jam a finger in there and
pull your hand away when you're done cranking. Oh, well.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Mom-on toggle
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 11:05 PM 6/26/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
<Larry@bowenaero.com>
> >
> >A follow-up on my quest for the guarded momentary-on toggle switch:
> >
> >
> >I'm not having much luck so far. For use with the switchguard, they
> >have to be mounted a certain way. Basically, the momentary-on needs to
> >be opposite the groove in the neck that is used for the anti-rotation
> >tab. The switch listed in the previous email below has the opposite
> >action: (on)-on as mounted in the switchguard. So, I ordered
> >
> >CARLING 6FA5H73: ALLIED STOCK # 683-5119
> >
> >which is listed as having a (on)-off action. But it's the same -- the
> >momentary on is opposite the groove. So using either of the switched
> >purchased so far, the starter will engage as soon as the switchguard is
> >flipped open, and stay engaged until the guard is closed. That's not
> >what I'm after.
> >
> >Is the only solution to file off the anti-rotation tab on the
> >switchguard, or am I over looking something?
>
> Nope, that's how we all do it. Most guards are not built to any
> standard . . . only those done to a Mil-Spec are going to be
> consistent. I've purchased guards that had anti-rotation tabs
> both ways. Use anti-rotation tab washers on the BACK of the panel
> for the switches and file off the tab on the guard. They'll probably
> work just fine. If push comes to shove, put two tiny dots of adhesive
> on the back of the guard's mounting plate. Sho-Goo or one of its
> cousins works well.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Mom-on toggle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Larry Bowen <lcbowen@yahoo.com>
I've considered that. But I already have the guarded toggle in my console. It
use to be a "starter enable" switch when I was going to have the starter button
on my infinity grip. I've changed it recently to just "starter". Less
complicated. Fewer potential failures. I think I'll take Bob's advice and
make it work with what I have and adjust the anti-rotation thingies as needed.
Thanks,
LB
--- Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Larry,
>
> FYI, I went through this same ordeal (although I didn't try as hard), and in
> the end I caved and went for the pushbutton switch with protective bezel
> that B&C sells. It's not as "pretty" as a red flip-up guarded switch, but I
> rationalize the decision by noting that the pushbutton switch is more or
> less foolproof. Less flipping and flopping...just jam a finger in there and
> pull your hand away when you're done cranking. Oh, well.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Mom-on toggle
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >
> > At 11:05 PM 6/26/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
> <Larry@bowenaero.com>
> > >
> > >A follow-up on my quest for the guarded momentary-on toggle switch:
> > >
> > >
> > >I'm not having much luck so far. For use with the switchguard, they
> > >have to be mounted a certain way. Basically, the momentary-on needs to
> > >be opposite the groove in the neck that is used for the anti-rotation
> > >tab. The switch listed in the previous email below has the opposite
> > >action: (on)-on as mounted in the switchguard. So, I ordered
> > >
> > >CARLING 6FA5H73: ALLIED STOCK # 683-5119
> > >
> > >which is listed as having a (on)-off action. But it's the same -- the
> > >momentary on is opposite the groove. So using either of the switched
> > >purchased so far, the starter will engage as soon as the switchguard is
> > >flipped open, and stay engaged until the guard is closed. That's not
> > >what I'm after.
> > >
> > >Is the only solution to file off the anti-rotation tab on the
> > >switchguard, or am I over looking something?
> >
> > Nope, that's how we all do it. Most guards are not built to any
> > standard . . . only those done to a Mil-Spec are going to be
> > consistent. I've purchased guards that had anti-rotation tabs
> > both ways. Use anti-rotation tab washers on the BACK of the panel
> > for the switches and file off the tab on the guard. They'll probably
> > work just fine. If push comes to shove, put two tiny dots of adhesive
> > on the back of the guard's mounting plate. Sho-Goo or one of its
> > cousins works well.
> >
> > Bob . . .
__________________________________
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Mom-on toggle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:43 AM 6/27/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Larry,
>
>FYI, I went through this same ordeal (although I didn't try as hard), and in
>the end I caved and went for the pushbutton switch with protective bezel
>that B&C sells. It's not as "pretty" as a red flip-up guarded switch, but I
>rationalize the decision by noting that the pushbutton switch is more or
>less foolproof. Less flipping and flopping...just jam a finger in there and
>pull your hand away when you're done cranking. Oh, well.
Good point. I've noted a degree of reverence for treating
certain controls in airplanes with extraordinary respect.
Recovery parachute system controls in Premier and Horizon
are in international orange boxes, switches and deploy handles
are guarded by key-locked covers when the system is not
needed. All kinds of lights come on in front of the pilot
when the system is armed. The deploy handle is black with
diagonal yellow stripes and the word "DEPLOY" engraved upon
it both right side up and upside down (just in case the
pilot is standing on his head while deciding whether
or not he wants to deploy the parachute).
Of course, operation of this life and airplane saving
device at the wrong time can produce a most undesirable
effect.
There are other controls in our airplanes designed
for single or rare event usage. Operation at
the wrong time may have a potential for doing damage
to some part of the airplane or causing the pilot some
momentary surprise for an unexpected event. The most
elegant solutions to preventing inadvertent operation
are easy. Put the control in a place where it's not
going to be mistaken for another control or inadvertently
operated while concentrating on some other task.
The starter on the Tri-Pacer I used for dual instruction
in 1960 is a good example. It was located under the
pilot's seat on the underside of a ledge. You had
to feel for it to find it and short of hitting it
with your heel during a collision with a mountainside,
there was no way that button was going to be subject
to accidental operation.
The Cherokee 235 I rent at 1K1 operates its starter
by a COMBINATION motion of TWIST -AND- PUSH IN
to start . . . in my never humble but always
honorable opinion . . . overkill. Nonetheless,
the intent of the designers was addressed with
very little extra effort and/or addition of
complexity . . . cost of ownership is entirely
another matter. That magneto switch probably cannot
be legally replaced with and ACS-510 without a great
deal of kowtowing to Washington and I'll bet that
special switch is a LOT more expensive than the
TSO'd Aircraft Spruce product.
I often hear builders voice concern for "accidental"
operation of switches and controls. Human factors
engineering is a powerful tool for reducing chances
of inadvertent operation while keeping the cost
of ownership and system complexity low. The elegant
solutions are almost always so simple as to go
completely unnoticed by the casual observer.
If one combines the starter switch with magneto
switches -AND- cross connects to be disabled when
the left mag is on -AND- groups the switches in
an area never normally accessed in flight (See:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/Switches.pdf ) then
I'll suggest that chances of inadvertent starter
operation are at least an order of magnitude
more remote than the probability of you cruising
into a mountainside.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Grouping wires for firewall penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:45 PM 6/26/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
>
>Hi Bob,
>I plan on grouping wires in the following two groups for firewall penetration:
>
>1) CHT, EGT, and tach, oil T&P, MAP, and fuel pressure transducer wires
>
>2) E.I. controllers (2), Alternator field and B output, and starter contactor
>
>Is this okay?
Don't see any potential for "gotchas" here . . . but why is
your b-lead coming through the firewall?
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Another Question, Different Subject |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:34 PM 6/26/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
>
>Don,
>
>Diodes across relay coils allow for increased switch life by eliminating
>arcing across the contacts caused by the inductive load of the application.
>
>The illumination of LED's caused by the mechanical energy stored in the
>gyro doesn't pose a reliability/durability threat to any of the components in
>the circuit. I can't really see needing to turn off the bus that feeds the
>gyros while in flight, while in the dark - the condition which causes the
>LED's to light up. I'd guess that leaving any component on the bus turned
>on while the bus feed is off would probably extinguish the LED's.
>
>Regardless, it doesn't sound like the LED's can provide useful information
>while the bus is turned off, so they can be ignored for the minute or two
>that the gyros take to wind down, if the bus loads are that low.
Excellent answer. I will add that energy residuals of turning things
off are entirely different for contactor/relay coils than for
motors spinning down. A motor can generate no more voltage than
it is supplied with for operation . . . turn it off and its output
drops immediately to some lower value and ramps down from there
as the rotor comes to a stop. A contactor coil delivers energy
via an entirely different mechanism and the voltage can be
on the order of hundreds of volts. See
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/spikecatcher.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wire and Screw Sizes Tutorial |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
AWG-American Wire Gage, Also known as the Brown & Sharpe Wire gage not
"gauge", and used in the United States since the 1880s when the prairies
were no longer black with buffalo, for ductile metal wires. Each wire
manufacturer faced the problem of maximizing a wire-drawing diameter
reduction while minimizing the wire breakage. "Process" had a lot to do with
this, so many made their own gage.
By our enlightened AWG standards, number 0000 wire is 0.4600 inch in
diameter. The diameter of each succeeding size, 000, 00, 0, 1, 2 etc. is
0.890525 times the diameter of the previous size. Wires get smaller as the
gage number gets bigger since these numbers simply represent the number of
the draw. Brown and Sharpe had the edge in this whole mess because THEY made
the measuring instrument too. Cool...... So figuring out any size solid wire
is simple. For example; solid 18 AWG is ummm....let's see....0.0808 inches.
For stranded wire the exercise is left to the student.
Gage sizes for guns are simply the number of lead balls equal to the weight
of a 1-inch diameter ball that will fit in your bore. Thus a 12-gage gun has
a bore that would take 12 balls that could be made from a 1-inch diameter
lead ball.
For screw studs we use the formula (0.013 times Studsize) + 0.060 = real
diameter. Thus a #10 screw is nominally 0.190 inches. But you knew that! In
New England flea markets I occasionally see antique tap and die sizes like
7-32, 9-24, 11-28 etc. Only the even sizes above #5 are used anymore.
The metric system has been the official measurement system in the US since
1866. Thank heavens for that!
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
"I only regret my economies."
Reynolds Price
Message 7
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| Subject: | sizing of current limiters on the B lead |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
Bob
I am doing the Z14 system. I have a 60 amp main alt and a b&c 20 amp on the
second system. How do I size the current limiters on the B lead. ANL60 and
ANL20?
Thanks
Ron Raby
Lancair ES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: 10622 Capen
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
> >Bob,
> >
> >I am building an all-electric RV-6A and currently planning on a dual
> >alternator, single battery electrical system (a-la Z-12), with a D25
Diode
> >assy providing E-Buss primary feed...fuses - not breakers.
> >
> >For overvoltage protection, a crow-bar (OVM-14) driving a B-lead
contactor
> >(S701-1)...or do I really need two sets - one for each alternator? I
> >don't really understand how it works - looks like it (OVM-14) would short
> >the circuit that normally provides power to the S-701 (easiest path)
> >causing the S-701 to open....yes/no? Although it looks like the
LR-3/SB-1
> >alternator controllers would be one-stop shopping providing OV protection
> >too?!
>
>
> First, not that Z-12 is shown set up with breakers. If you go the
> fuseblock route, you need to treat your alternator field supply
> circuit like that shown in Figure Z-11 where there is a fusible
> link coming off the bus to supply field power to the alternator
> control switch. This path continues on through a 5A breaker
> mandated for the crowbar ov protection . . .
>
> The second alternator would have its own fusible link and field
> supply circuit as the first alternator.
>
> OV protection is built into the regulators B&C makes. You would
> not need to add an OVM-14.
>
>
> >I would prefer the autoswitching as described on pg 17-12. Are these
> >mutually exclusive? OV protection is more critical to me than
> >autoswitching if I have to make a choice - I'm open to education
though.....
> Autoswitching happens because the standby alternator is
> set to regulate at 0.5 to 1.0 volts BELOW normal bus
> voltage. Normal operation is for both alternator switches
> to be ON all the time. Should the main alternator fail,
> bus voltage sags and the #2 regulator brings the #2 alternator
> on line to support ship's loads. The Alternator Load/Overload
> light will flash until you reduce ship's load to or below
> 20A.
>
>
> >SB-1's and SD-20's are not listed anywhere on your website - are they
> >discontinued?
>
> I don't sell those, B&C does at http://www.bandc.biz
>
> >I hope that I've conveyed my intended direction...please validate or
> >provide education. I would like to make sure that the pathway is valid
> >given current availability of hardware.
>
> All the hardware you need is currently available. Figure Z-12
> is most often applied to airplanes that already have breaker
> panels. You can certainly apply it to a new airplane with
> fuseblocks provided that you make the small changes described
> above to add fusible links and alternator field breakers.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wire and Screw Sizes Tutorial |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
At 10:09 AM 6/27/03 -0400, you wrote:
>Gage sizes for guns are simply the number of lead balls equal to the weight
>of a 1-inch diameter ball that will fit in your bore. Thus a 12-gage gun has
>a bore that would take 12 balls that could be made from a 1-inch diameter
>lead ball.
Change that from 1 inch to 1 pound and you've got it.
Gauge represents the number of lead balls of the diameter of the shotgun
bore required to weigh one pound. For example, the diameter of the bore of
a 12 gauge shotgun is 0.729 inches; 12 lead balls of this diameter weigh
one pound.
The sole exception to this is the .410 shotgun, which has a diameter of .41
inches (i.e., .41 caliber) and is actually 68 Gauge.
It may be spelled gage for wire, but I've always seen it spelled with a u
for shotguns.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Thanks, and Happy Trails.... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins@globaleyes.net>
Bob Nuckolls,
My Quickie Q-200 is re-wired and back in the air! I'm getting ready to
un-subscribe, but before I do I just wanted to thank you for the great
service you provide here.
I first encountered you at last year's Tandem Wing Coffey Break in Kansas
where you gave a one hour talk. To tell you the truth, I wasn't expecting
all that much. Maybe something on soldering technique, or what's the best
alternator for homebuilts. But, as your discussion went on it was apparent
that you were offering something unique and steeped in sound, rational
thinking.
I purchased your book and CD on the spot (the best $45 I ever spent), but
since I had already put 1,200 hours on my aircraft I wasn't quite sure what
I was willing to change.
A couple of months later I gave a PowerPoint talk to my EAA chapter
describing some basic principles from your book, and I titled the talk
"Homebuilt wiring; or If I Had To Do It All Over Again, This Is How I Would
Do It". Or something like that.
As the winter approached I had already decided to overhaul my engine and was
planning to replace my alternator with a B&C job. I started looking at the
wiring mess behind the panel and was trying to figure how I could adapt some
of your methods to my existing set-up. Finally, I just went after my plane
with a pair of wire cutters, and 20 minutes later the hangar floor was
littered with wire, switches, and circuit breakers.
Re-wiring was actually fun, as was doing my schematics and wire book. I
used the fuseblocks and main/endurance/battery bus approach and now I have a
much more reliable, and easy to troubleshoot, system. I also purchased your
low voltage warning light and it works great!
I now have five hours on the new system and everything seems to be working
well.
Your daily on-line response to problems and your advice is invaluable and
consistent. It is just terrific to have a first quality consultant so
readily available (not to mention so cheap)!
I no longer need the 15 or so daily e-mails so I will unsubscribe soon, but
I wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your service.
I hope to run into you again sometime and show you my plane.
Sincerely,
Sam Hoskins
Quickie Q-200 ~1,275 hrs
http://home.globaleyes.net/shoskins/page1.htm
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Thanks, and Happy Trails.... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Randy Pflanzer <F1Rocket@comcast.net>
Sam,
That's a very nice message for Bob and adequately expresses the
sentiments of many of us on the Aeroelectric List. Thank you for
taking the time to say what many of us feel.
Randy
F1 Rocket
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/f1rocket/
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Hoskins <shoskins@Globaleyes.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Thanks, and Happy Trails....
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Hoskins"
> <shoskins@globaleyes.net>
> Bob Nuckolls,
>
> My Quickie Q-200 is re-wired and back in the air! I'm getting
> ready to
> un-subscribe, but before I do I just wanted to thank you for the great
> service you provide here.
>
> I first encountered you at last year's Tandem Wing Coffey Break in
> Kansaswhere you gave a one hour talk. To tell you the truth, I
> wasn't expecting
> all that much. Maybe something on soldering technique, or what's
> the best
> alternator for homebuilts. But, as your discussion went on it was
> apparentthat you were offering something unique and steeped in
> sound, rational
> thinking.
>
> I purchased your book and CD on the spot (the best $45 I ever
> spent), but
> since I had already put 1,200 hours on my aircraft I wasn't quite
> sure what
> I was willing to change.
>
> A couple of months later I gave a PowerPoint talk to my EAA chapter
> describing some basic principles from your book, and I titled the talk
> "Homebuilt wiring; or If I Had To Do It All Over Again, This Is
> How I Would
> Do It". Or something like that.
>
> As the winter approached I had already decided to overhaul my
> engine and was
> planning to replace my alternator with a B&C job. I started
> looking at the
> wiring mess behind the panel and was trying to figure how I could
> adapt some
> of your methods to my existing set-up. Finally, I just went after
> my plane
> with a pair of wire cutters, and 20 minutes later the hangar floor was
> littered with wire, switches, and circuit breakers.
>
> Re-wiring was actually fun, as was doing my schematics and wire
> book. I
> used the fuseblocks and main/endurance/battery bus approach and
> now I have a
> much more reliable, and easy to troubleshoot, system. I also
> purchased your
> low voltage warning light and it works great!
>
> I now have five hours on the new system and everything seems to be
> workingwell.
>
> Your daily on-line response to problems and your advice is
> invaluable and
> consistent. It is just terrific to have a first quality consultant so
> readily available (not to mention so cheap)!
>
> I no longer need the 15 or so daily e-mails so I will unsubscribe
> soon, but
> I wanted to let you know how much I appreciate your service.
>
> I hope to run into you again sometime and show you my plane.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Sam Hoskins
> Quickie Q-200 ~1,275 hrs
> http://home.globaleyes.net/shoskins/page1.htm
>
>
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= - The AeroElectric-List Email Forum -
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= !! NEWish !!
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= List Related Information
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Thanks, and Happy Trails.... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Sam, Randy & everyone else,
I really have to agree. I am constantly surprised at Bob's knowledge,
patience and courtesy in helping us understand how to make the electrical
systems of our little airplanes work and then how to make them work even
better. And thanks to Matt for creating this list to make our free use of
Bob's time and intelligence more efficient. This is really a class act.
Terry
RV-8A
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy
Pflanzer
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Thanks, and Happy Trails....
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Randy Pflanzer
<F1Rocket@comcast.net>
Sam,
That's a very nice message for Bob and adequately expresses the
sentiments of many of us on the Aeroelectric List. Thank you for
taking the time to say what many of us feel.
Randy
F1 Rocket
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/f1rocket/
Message 12
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| Subject: | SD-8 Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" <edwardoconnor@compuserve.com>
I am about to wire up my RV for the SD-8 backup alternator and am running
out of places to put things. I searched the acehives but couldn't figure out
what to call my search. Tried the obvious but none answered my question.
My question is: Is it OK to mount the relay, the capacator, and the
regulator on the firewall side. Anyone have a picture they could E-Mail me
as to how you mounted these items on your project. RV-Pictures would be
really good. I have the main regulator mounted in the baggage compartment
but don't want to mount any more items in there if I can help it. Any advice
would be appreciated.
Ed OConnor RV-8/Panama City FL. I only get the digest of msg so a direct
e-mail in addition to post to list would be good for me. Thanks
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
Larry,
Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies stocks a special "reverse keyway" momentary
toggle switch for this very reason. Pegasus has these switches custom-made
by Carling. See Part Number 4422 on this page:
http://pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/047.pdf (Note however that the switch has
solder lugs rather than faston terminals since racers seem to prefer solder
lugs. Apparently they haven't read the AeroElectric Connection!)
Chris Heitman (co-owner of Pegasus)
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
A follow-up on my quest for the guarded momentary-on toggle switch:
I'm not having much luck so far. For use with the switchguard, they
have to be mounted a certain way. Basically, the momentary-on needs to
be opposite the groove in the neck that is used for the anti-rotation
tab. The switch listed in the previous email below has the opposite
action: (on)-on as mounted in the switchguard. So, I ordered
CARLING 6FA5H73: ALLIED STOCK # 683-5119
which is listed as having a (on)-off action. But it's the same -- the
momentary on is opposite the groove. So using either of the switched
purchased so far, the starter will engage as soon as the switchguard is
flipped open, and stay engaged until the guard is closed. That's not
what I'm after.
Is the only solution to file off the anti-rotation tab on the
switchguard, or am I over looking something?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
---
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Thanks Chris. I just wrestled with this tonight. I filed off the
keyway and assembled with some locktite type of stuff. Seems to be
holding nicely. I'll file your info away in case I need it next time.
-
LB
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of C J Heitman
> Sent: Friday, June 27, 2003 10:03 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Mom-on toggle
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "C J Heitman"
> <cjh@execpc.com>
>
> Larry,
>
> Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies stocks a special "reverse
> keyway" momentary toggle switch for this very reason. Pegasus
> has these switches custom-made by Carling. See Part Number
> 4422 on this page: http://pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/047.pdf
> (Note however that the switch has solder lugs rather than
> faston terminals since racers seem to prefer solder lugs.
> Apparently they haven't read the AeroElectric Connection!)
>
> Chris Heitman (co-owner of Pegasus)
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
> --> <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>
> A follow-up on my quest for the guarded momentary-on toggle switch:
>
> I'm not having much luck so far. For use with the
> switchguard, they have to be mounted a certain way.
> Basically, the momentary-on needs to be opposite the groove
> in the neck that is used for the anti-rotation tab. The
> switch listed in the previous email below has the opposite
> action: (on)-on as mounted in the switchguard. So, I ordered
>
> CARLING 6FA5H73: ALLIED STOCK # 683-5119
>
> which is listed as having a (on)-off action. But it's the
> same -- the momentary on is opposite the groove. So using
> either of the switched purchased so far, the starter will
> engage as soon as the switchguard is flipped open, and stay
> engaged until the guard is closed. That's not what I'm after.
>
> Is the only solution to file off the anti-rotation tab on the
> switchguard, or am I over looking something?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
> 2003 - The year of flight!
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