Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:07 AM - A different way? (Tom Schiff)
2. 05:09 AM - Re:SD-8 Installation (William Bernard)
3. 08:28 AM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] Alternator Quit (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 08:38 AM - Re: sizing of current limiters on the B (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 08:53 AM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] Alternator Quit (Dan Checkoway)
6. 09:21 AM - Tach Auto Switch... (Don Honabach)
7. 11:26 AM - Re: Wire and Screw Sizes Tutorial (Robert McCallum)
8. 12:02 PM - Re: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Alternator Quit (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 12:18 PM - Re: A different way? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 12:21 PM - Re: SD-8 Installation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 01:51 PM - Re: Velocity Strobe and Ammeter questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 02:18 PM - Re: Tach Auto Switch... (Michel Therrien)
13. 02:39 PM - Starter Off Switch with Single EI? (Tinne maha)
14. 03:22 PM - Re: Tach Auto Switch... (Benford2@aol.com)
15. 04:06 PM - PIDG / Spade / Rachet Tool... (Don Honabach)
16. 04:44 PM - Follow Up Question - PIDG (Don Honabach)
17. 05:08 PM - Re: PIDG / Spade / Rachet Tool... (Neville Kilford)
18. 05:09 PM - Re: Starter Off Switch with Single EI? (David)
19. 05:23 PM - A different way? (Eric M. Jones)
20. 05:38 PM - Voltage Regulator (LarryRobertHelming)
21. 05:45 PM - Re: PIDG / Spade / Rachet Tool... (Don Honabach)
22. 06:11 PM - Alternator Belt (Jim Bean)
23. 06:13 PM - Re: A different way? (Jim Jewell)
24. 06:54 PM - Re: Alternator Belt (Cy Galley)
25. 06:59 PM - Re: Alternator Belt (Cy Galley)
26. 07:59 PM - Re: Alternator Belt (Bill Hibbing)
27. 08:20 PM - Re: Alternator Belt (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
28. 08:40 PM - Re: Starter Off Switch with Single EI? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
29. 08:50 PM - Re: PIDG / Spade / Rachet Tool... (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
30. 09:06 PM - Re: Voltage Regulator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | A different way? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom Schiff" <tomschiff@attbi.com>
I am about to close out the leading edge of the first wing of my
Glastar. I need to string the wiring first as the area is inaccessible
after leading edge closeout.
I would like to try something different. I am thinking of running two
heavy wires (Positive and ground out to the wing tip.) These wires would
be protected by a fusible link or a large breaker (one breaker for each
wing) and would be sized to carry the current for all of the items that
are on that wing. Near the wing tip there would be a bus that
distributes the power via solid state relays to the power consumers
listed below.
On each wing there would be
1. Landing light
2. Taxi Light
3. Navigation light
4. Strobe
5. Anything else.
There would be a fusible link at the distribution point for each relay.
Although if a link fused I would not have the option of resetting it I
would have the backups of the items in the other wing. If there were
Landing Light flashers they would be located at the wing tip bus. I
would not attempt to synchronize the flashing of the left and right
wings.
To control the relays I was thinking of running some Computer grade
10BaseT cable. There is a version to that is approved to run through
plenums in buildings and has a fire rating that I believe is similar to
that of aviation wiring.
Advantages.
1. I would not carry power through the airframe as a return wire would
be included.
2. If I wanted to add something in the future the 10 base T wiring has 4
or 5 more wires to control relays.
3. Switches should last much longer as they would be carrying only micro
amps.
4. Wiring is simplified. One pair for power and one cable for signal.
5. As the power feed will be a heavier gage than would be normally used
for any individual circuit the voltage drop caused by items with a
periodic high current drain (read strobes) should be minimized. With
less drain comes less electrical noise.
6. In the course of building the Glastar there are at least 3 mountings
and un-mountings of the wing that have to take place with only two sets
of wires this would be simplified. I plan to remove the wings one more
time after the time is flown off to paint them.
7. I could also use the remaining wires of the 10BaseT for some future
instrumentation (angle of attack, stall warning, or something that we
haven't though of yet)
I am planning on running two RG-400 wires out to the wing tip but don't
know their exact usage right now.
I would like to run the wiring through some sort of conduit my concern
is that the cable would be floating in the conduit and not tied down as
it is in spam cans. Would the cable chafe from being free inside of the
conduit or is this OK?
So what do you folks think? It is unconventional but is it OK?
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: SD-8 Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
For what it's worth, I mounted my regulator and capacitor on the front side of
the firewall. The relay mounts on a bracket placed behind the instrument panel,
over the fuel tank. I'm building a tailwind. The aircraft has not flown, but
I have two friends, one of whom has a SD-8 alternator on a Q-200 with the regulator
mounted on the firewall and another with a Glastar with the capacitor
mounted near an SD40 alternator. Both installations seem to work, so I'm not too
worried about mine.
Hope this helps
Bill
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Alternator Quit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:41 AM 6/9/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Are you using an ANL current limiter? Is that what blew? You have a fuse
>for your alternator field?
>
>I would post this question to aeroelectric-list@matronics.com (subscribe
>first if you're not already) and see what Bob Nuckolls says.
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
Dan, just ran across this note in my backlog of things to attend to,
wasn't trying to ignore the problem.
Did you hear more about the details of this event?
Bob . . .
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Gregory Bitzer" <gbitzer@cisco.com>
>To: <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 10:23 AM
>Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Alternator Quit
>
>
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > I had my alternator quit on me Friday. More specifically it was my
> > Alternator power lead breaker that quit. I wouldn't normally classify this
> > as an emergency except for the fact that I was IMC at 8,000 feet in some
> > pretty solid rain. Everything held together for me to shoot the approach
> > and land safely.
> >
> > Has anyone run into problems when operating in rain? I was in some
>moderate
> > rain for about 25 minutes. Everything worked find when I replaced the
>fuse.
> > Unfortunately it was impossible for me to debug this in the air since I
> > used fuses rather than reset breakers.
> >
> > Greg Bitzer
> > RV-6 Atlanta, GA
> >
> >
> >
> > Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important
>Questions.
> > http://us.click.yahoo.com/Lj3uPC/Me7FAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM
> >
> > Online help on this group at:
> > http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
> >
> >
> >
> >
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: sizing of current limiters on the B |
lead
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:26 AM 6/27/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
>
>Bob
>
>I am doing the Z14 system. I have a 60 amp main alt and a b&c 20 amp on the
>second system. How do I size the current limiters on the B lead. ANL60 and
>ANL20?
>
>Thanks
The ANL devices have fusing characteristics that approach
fusible links in terms of time-to-open at various, intermediate
current levels. Since the purpose of a b-lead fuse is to protect
the system against HARD fault (read 500-1000 amps) due to shorted
diodes in alternator, the actual size of the protection is not
terribly critical. The ANL limiters are made by a number of companies
but not all companies make all sizes. Bussman (see:
http://www.bussmann.com/library/bifs/2024.pdf
. . . does make a pretty good spread in the low current range
An ANL-35 or ANL-30 would be fine for the SD-20, an ANL-50
or ANL-60 for the 60A machine would do too. B&C stocks ANL-40
and ANL-60 which are the sizes used on their STC'd kits.
If push came to shove, I'd have no heartburn with an ANL-40
on the SD-20 alternator.
The SD-20 b-lead can also be protected adequately with the
big-dog cousin to the ATC plastic fuses. Theres a critter called
the MAXIFUSE (see:
http://www.bussauto.com/pdf/maxifuse.pdf
A MAX30 in a single fuse inline holder (available from many
automotive parts stores along with the fuse) would be fine
on the SD-20 as well. Probably less expensive and easier to
install than an ANL limiter and base.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Alternator Quit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I was hoping I'd see the topic move over to the aeroelectric-list, but I
don't think it did.
On the VAF list there were two more messages in the thread, talking about
cooling blast tubes and how water was probably the culprit. The discussion
never touched the questions I asked.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Alternator Quit
> At 10:41 AM 6/9/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >Are you using an ANL current limiter? Is that what blew? You have a
fuse
> >for your alternator field?
> >
> >I would post this question to aeroelectric-list@matronics.com (subscribe
> >first if you're not already) and see what Bob Nuckolls says.
> >
> >)_( Dan
> >RV-7 N714D
> >http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
> Dan, just ran across this note in my backlog of things to attend to,
> wasn't trying to ignore the problem.
>
> Did you hear more about the details of this event?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Gregory Bitzer" <gbitzer@cisco.com>
> >To: <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
> >Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 10:23 AM
> >Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Alternator Quit
> >
> >
> > > Hey guys,
> > >
> > > I had my alternator quit on me Friday. More specifically it was my
> > > Alternator power lead breaker that quit. I wouldn't normally classify
this
> > > as an emergency except for the fact that I was IMC at 8,000 feet in
some
> > > pretty solid rain. Everything held together for me to shoot the
approach
> > > and land safely.
> > >
> > > Has anyone run into problems when operating in rain? I was in some
> >moderate
> > > rain for about 25 minutes. Everything worked find when I replaced the
> >fuse.
> > > Unfortunately it was impossible for me to debug this in the air since
I
> > > used fuses rather than reset breakers.
> > >
> > > Greg Bitzer
> > > RV-6 Atlanta, GA
> > >
> > >
> > >
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> > > Get A Free Psychic Reading! Your Online Answer To Life's Important
> >Questions.
> > > http://us.click.yahoo.com/Lj3uPC/Me7FAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM
> >
> > >
> > > Online help on this group at:
> > > http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
> > >
> > >
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
>
> Bob . . .
>
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Tach Auto Switch... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
I'm using a Subaru EA-81 engine which currently has a primary and backup
ignition. I'd like to setup a switch with two separate power feeds that
allows me to toggle between the two ignitions (only one should run at a
time). However, by having two power feeds into the switch I lose the
ability to switch the tach lead as well without installing another
switch which then becomes more complicated for basic operations. So I
started thinking about setting up an auto-tach lead switch for my tach
gauge (negative side coil based).
My thoughts are that if I used a basic relay that was powered by the
same wire that would power my ignition I could design a simple circuit
that would switch the tach lead based on which ignition was active.
However, since I'm switching the tach lead that is connected to the
negative side of the coil and my deep understanding of electronics is
limited, I was hoping to find out if my base idea was okay or if I'm
setting myself up for some unknown issues related to the coil/tach
operation. Also, if the relay switch of the tach lead is okay, would it
still be standard practice to put a diode on this small type of relay?
I hope this question isn't too basic and any input is appreciated.
Thanks!
Don Honabach
Tempe, AZ - 601HDS
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Wire and Screw Sizes Tutorial |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Eric M. Jones wrote
>The metric system has been the official measurement system in the US since
>1866. Thank heavens for that!
>
>Eric M. Jones
>
>
>
Thank you for the great explanation of wire sizes and how the machine
screw number size system works. However on your last statement, quoted
above, I'm confused. I'm not American so I'm not sure, but I was under
the impression that the US was almost the only country in the world
still NOT using the metric system. How do you figure that a country
which still uses inches, feet, yards, miles, pounds, tons, pints,
quarts, gallons, Fahrenheit degrees and barrels is using the metric
system????? Or is metric the "official measurement" system as you state,
but it is totally ignored by the whole country in its daily life,
business and commerce which actually uses the "unofficial" Imperial
system instead?? (Of course when it comes to liquid measure (i.e. quarts
and gallons) you don't even use the Imperial system but an Americanized
version of it with a gallon only .832674 times an Imperial Gallon and a
quart having only 32 instead of 40 ounces?? (and those are also
different ounces, being 1.04084 times an Imperial ounce)) You do, of
course, use metric currency, but unless I'm mistaken, that is one of the
few areas where the US is metric.
Bob McC
and please DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Alternator Quit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:52 AM 6/28/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I was hoping I'd see the topic move over to the aeroelectric-list, but I
>don't think it did.
>
>On the VAF list there were two more messages in the thread, talking about
>cooling blast tubes and how water was probably the culprit. The discussion
>never touched the questions I asked.
Hmmm . . . understand. Can't help someone who doesn't want to
be helped . . .
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: A different way? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:06 AM 6/28/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom Schiff" <tomschiff@attbi.com>
>
>I am about to close out the leading edge of the first wing of my
>Glastar. I need to string the wiring first as the area is inaccessible
>after leading edge closeout.
>
>I would like to try something different. I am thinking of running two
>heavy wires (Positive and ground out to the wing tip.) These wires would
>be protected by a fusible link or a large breaker (one breaker for each
>wing) and would be sized to carry the current for all of the items that
>are on that wing. Near the wing tip there would be a bus that
>distributes the power via solid state relays to the power consumers
>listed below.
>
>On each wing there would be
>1. Landing light
>2. Taxi Light
>3. Navigation light
>4. Strobe
>5. Anything else.
>
>There would be a fusible link at the distribution point for each relay.
>Although if a link fused I would not have the option of resetting it I
>would have the backups of the items in the other wing.
Downstream circuit protection should have a fusing constant
a fraction that of the upstream protection. For example, a faulted
22AWG fuselink downstream of a 20A breaker will open the breaker
first. Suggest a ATC fuseblock for a remote distribution
bus.
>If there were
>Landing Light flashers they would be located at the wing tip bus. I
>would not attempt to synchronize the flashing of the left and right
>wings.
>
>To control the relays I was thinking of running some Computer grade
>10BaseT cable. There is a version to that is approved to run through
>plenums in buildings and has a fire rating that I believe is similar to
>that of aviation wiring.
>
>Advantages.
>1. I would not carry power through the airframe as a return wire would
>be included.
>2. If I wanted to add something in the future the 10 base T wiring has 4
>or 5 more wires to control relays.
Break one wire and everything quits . . .
>3. Switches should last much longer as they would be carrying only micro
>amps.
How long will they last if you don't do this? I'm flying 40 year
old rentals with original switches still in place . . .
>4. Wiring is simplified. One pair for power and one cable for signal.
The "wiring" may be simple but the total parts count in the system
has multiplied by factors of 10 or more . . . all othing things
being equal, reliability is inversely proportional to parts count.
>5. As the power feed will be a heavier gage than would be normally used
>for any individual circuit the voltage drop caused by items with a
>periodic high current drain (read strobes) should be minimized. With
>less drain comes less electrical noise.
Explain the physics to support this assertion.
>6. In the course of building the Glastar there are at least 3 mountings
>and un-mountings of the wing that have to take place with only two sets
>of wires this would be simplified. I plan to remove the wings one more
>time after the time is flown off to paint them.
Don't hook things up until the wings are on to stay. I'd venture
a guess that from same fleet of airplanes I fly, wings have never
been removed from most of them.
>7. I could also use the remaining wires of the 10BaseT for some future
>instrumentation (angle of attack, stall warning, or something that we
>haven't though of yet)
>
>I am planning on running two RG-400 wires out to the wing tip but don't
>know their exact usage right now.
>
>I would like to run the wiring through some sort of conduit my concern
>is that the cable would be floating in the conduit and not tied down as
>it is in spam cans. Would the cable chafe from being free inside of the
>conduit or is this OK?
>
>So what do you folks think? It is unconventional but is it OK?
Henry Ford and Charles Kettering didn't worry about anyone's
endorsement before launching a new idea. It either flies or flops
on it's own merit and risks are never zero. Not all of their ideas
flew but when they did, the results were gratifying if not spectacular.
If you have a good foundation based on experience and/or considered
analysis of the fundamentals, then you can get a leg up on the
market by being there first. Your selling points have to offer
some combination of lowered installation time/cost, lower maintenance
time/cost, and/or increased service life by some factor that makes
it a compelling design.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: SD-8 Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:01 PM 6/27/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor"
><edwardoconnor@compuserve.com>
>
>I am about to wire up my RV for the SD-8 backup alternator and am running
>out of places to put things. I searched the acehives but couldn't figure out
>what to call my search. Tried the obvious but none answered my question.
>My question is: Is it OK to mount the relay, the capacator, and the
>regulator on the firewall side. Anyone have a picture they could E-Mail me
>as to how you mounted these items on your project. RV-Pictures would be
>really good. I have the main regulator mounted in the baggage compartment
>but don't want to mount any more items in there if I can help it. Any advice
>would be appreciated.
All of those things live well on the firewall. Their service
life might be reduced by the extra temperature stresses but given
the huge number of accessories that live for many hundreds of
flight hours on the firewall, I suspect the differences would
be difficult to quantify reliably.
I wouldn't let any good firewall real estate go begging for
utilization if other spaces are cramped.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Velocity Strobe and Ammeter questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:06 PM 6/23/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brett Ferrell <bferrell@123mail.net>
>
>Bob/Others -
>
>Just finished reading the 'Connection (many thanks) in preparation for
>designing/wiring my Velocity XL (www.velocityxl.com) and had a couple of
>quick (OK, mayber they're not quick, but straightforward at least) questions.
>
>First - I bleieve you recommend attaching both ends of the Whelen strobe
>shielding on composites. What's the best way to attach the AL foil,
>solder wire to it? I've installed a Molex connector for service at the
>strake-wing junction, what kind of connector would you recommend there,
>another Molex? And finally, would it be sufficient to put a ring terminal
>under the mounting screw for the ground connection at the light fixture,
>or should I solder the sheild to the housing, or what?
There is a bare, stranded wired IN ADDITION to the three insulated wires
under the shield. This forth wire is called a "drain wire" and its purpose
is to provide you with a convenient means for making electrical connection
to the shield-foil which is, as you've noted, impossible to make
connection with. You can extend the drain wire with a short piece of
wire, install a ring terminal and attach to mounting screw for fixture.
If you DON'T do this, in all probability, you won't know the difference.
>Second - I'm planning on going all-electric, probably with the Blue
>Mountain EFIS and a 20 vac-pad-mounted backup essential load alternator,
>and was wondering about placement of the shunt. The Z figure for canards
>shows it in the battery ground line to the canard bulkhead, which is were
>I would like to put it and measure the current to or from the battery
>regardless of configuration.
How would you use this reading? Drawing energy from either
battery in Z-14 assumes both alternators have crapped. If
you purposely load a battery even when one alternator is
still working, it should be done with the knowledge of an
accurate load analysis combined with considered preventative
maintenance of the battery. If you subscribe to this philosophy,
then having instrumentation to measure either battery current
or voltage while in flight becomes non-information.
> The dual-alt figure shows one shunt for each alternator to measure
> their individual currents, with which I'm not postive how I'd tell if the
> battery were discarging,
If your low voltage warning lights are dark, batteries
are NOT being discharged.
> . . . and I don't think is relevent if I only use the second alternator
> in the event of primary failure. Which setup would you prefer (and why)
> with my setup?
If you use B&C alternators or equal quality product in both
slots, likelihood of alternator failure due to hardware
issues is probably 1/10th that of alternators flying around
in spam-cans. Likelihood of dual alternator failure during
any single 3-hour flight is on the same order as having a
propeller or wing fall off.
A figure Z-14 system with NO instrumentation other than
low voltage warning lights is a VERY comfortable combination
to fly. It requires a minimum of pilot decision, action and
no extra-ordinary monitoring after failure for relaxed
continued flight to airport of intended destination.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Tach Auto Switch... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
I did exactly that, but did not fly with the plane
yet.
I used a relay whose coil is powered from the ignition
2 +12V circuit.
The default source (no power to the relay coil) is the
ign 1 negative side of coil. If the relay coil is
energized, then, I read the ign 2 negative side of
coil.
I tested this in my garage when I tried my engine and
it worked.
I did not install an additional diode, but I used an
automotive relay (those you can get as accessories for
anti-theft or remote starting systems).
See the relay mounted at the top of firewall near the
ignition system.
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/DCP02042.JPG
Michel
--- Don Honabach <don@pcperfect.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don
> Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>
> I'm using a Subaru EA-81 engine which currently has
> a primary and backup
> ignition. I'd like to setup a switch with two
> separate power feeds that
> allows me to toggle between the two ignitions (only
> one should run at a
> time). However, by having two power feeds into the
> switch I lose the
> ability to switch the tach lead as well without
> installing another
> switch which then becomes more complicated for basic
> operations. So I
> started thinking about setting up an auto-tach lead
> switch for my tach
> gauge (negative side coil based).
>
> My thoughts are that if I used a basic relay that
> was powered by the
> same wire that would power my ignition I could
> design a simple circuit
> that would switch the tach lead based on which
> ignition was active.
> However, since I'm switching the tach lead that is
> connected to the
> negative side of the coil and my deep understanding
> of electronics is
> limited, I was hoping to find out if my base idea
> was okay or if I'm
> setting myself up for some unknown issues related to
> the coil/tach
> operation. Also, if the relay switch of the tach
> lead is okay, would it
> still be standard practice to put a diode on this
> small type of relay?
>
> I hope this question isn't too basic and any input
> is appreciated.
>
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
Message 13
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| Subject: | Starter Off Switch with Single EI? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
I am installing single electronic ignition and will most likely upgrade to dual
at some future point. As I'm leaving the magneto withoutan impulse coupler on
the airplaneI'm going to wire my airplane such that the mag is grounded when
the starter is on (similar to Figure Z-11) An upper, spring loaded position on
the switch will activate the starter ground out the mag simultaneously. I can
see myself accidently hitting the starter when checking mag drop. What is the
best way to maintain the 'Starter is off once the Engine is Running' idea with
only one mag?
Right now I'm planning on running power for the strobe and starter through a 2-3
switch such that the starter isdisabled when the strobe light is on.Is there
a better way to get the 'Starter On=Mag Off' 'Engine Running = Starter Disabled'
idea?
Grant
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Tach Auto Switch... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 6/28/2003 10:22:15 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
don@pcperfect.com writes:
> posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>
> I'm using a Subaru EA-81 engine which currently has a primary and backup
> ignition. I'd like to setup a switch with two separate power feeds that
> allows me to toggle between the two ignitions (only one should run at a
> time). However, by having two power feeds into the switch I lose the
> ability to switch the tach lead as well without installing another
> switch which then becomes more complicated for basic operations. So I
> started thinking about setting up an auto-tach lead switch for my tach
> gauge (negative side coil based).
>
> My thoughts are that if I used a basic relay that was powered by the
> same wire that would power my ignition I could design a simple circuit
> that would switch the tach lead based on which ignition was active.
> However, since I'm switching the tach lead that is connected to the
> negative side of the coil and my deep understanding of electronics is
> limited, I was hoping to find out if my base idea was okay or if I'm
> setting myself up for some unknown issues related to the coil/tach
> operation. Also, if the relay switch of the tach lead is okay, would it
> still be standard practice to put a diode on this small type of relay?
>
> I hope this question isn't too basic and any input is appreciated.
>
> Thanks!
> Don Honabach
> Tempe, AZ - 601HDS
>
>
I am running duel MSD ignitions on my Ford and what i did was to use a triple
pole double throw switch. As you cycle between both Ignition systems the
third pole switches the positive lead going to the tach. Bob gave me the info on
sources for this switch a few months back. If ya want I will look back at my
files to find it. My problem was the first switch I ordered was physically too
big because I had already drilled out the holes for my Ign switch and the body
of it hit my transponder. I bought another one from a different vendor and
that one barely fit. If ya want I will dig out the one I didn.t use and and give
you the part #. I do remember it was not cheap.
Ben Haas N801BH.
Message 15
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| Subject: | PIDG / Spade / Rachet Tool... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Hey Everyone,
I'm going nuts with these Insulated PIDG-Spade Connectors and trying to
use some of my existing Racket Tools with PIDG dies.
What I notice is that the die for the connector is actually a little
bigger than the AMP PIDG connectors (i.e. the metal portion underneath
the insulation isn't quite as long as the racket based die). Accordingly
to an article that BK pointed me to on his site, it talks about crimping
1/3 back for the wire and 2/3 back for the wire's insulation. Since the
racket die is bigger than the crimpeable metal portion of the connector,
I end up with a crimp that starts at the beginning and another one that
ends at the end (if that makes sense).
I also found that Amp/Tyco has something called a Pro Crimper II and the
associated dies available for AMP PIDG connectors. Do I just need to buy
this or the one available at Aero-Electric? If that's the case, that's
great, just don't want to find out that I'm misunderstanding how the
crimp is supposed to work before adding to my crimper tool chest.
For what it's worth, I tried searching on AMP, Molex, and Ideal's
websites and wasn't able to find any documentation on using the
associated tools. For documentation on using other crimpers, just not
PIDG crimpers.
Thanks!
Don
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Follow Up Question - PIDG |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
As a quick follow up. On the Insulated AMP PIDG connectors there is what
appears to be an open barrel that sort of funnels into the wire entry
point on the connector. When doing the 2nd wire insultation crimp, do
you crimp just before this barrel or do you crimp the barrel?
Thanks!!!
Don
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: PIDG / Spade / Rachet Tool... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
Don,
The tool you mention, the Pro Crimper, is the one I just bought, and I can
tell you it makes a pretty good crimp. The dies are a perfect fit. It does
both crimps in one go, and I simply can't pull the wire out after it's done.
However, the AMP dies are large too, just as you say. I think Bob's article
is talking about a very narrow-jawed crimp tool, that you have to use twice
to fasten one terminal (once for the wire, and once for the insulation).
However, with the Pro Crimper tool, rather than doing two separate thin
crimps across the PIDG connectors, it does two large crimps in one go, that
cover virtually all of the available grip, exactly as you describe.
If your tool is doing as I think, it's the same as the AMP tool. I've read
Bob's article "Anatomy of a Good Solderless Terminal Connection" and it seems
to meet all his requirements. If the crimp is supporting the insulation,
holding the wire properly, and is a strong mechanical joint, I can't think
there's a problem.
Hope this helps.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: PIDG / Spade / Rachet Tool...
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>
> Hey Everyone,
>
> I'm going nuts with these Insulated PIDG-Spade Connectors and trying to
> use some of my existing Racket Tools with PIDG dies.
>
> What I notice is that the die for the connector is actually a little
> bigger than the AMP PIDG connectors (i.e. the metal portion underneath
> the insulation isn't quite as long as the racket based die). Accordingly
> to an article that BK pointed me to on his site, it talks about crimping
> 1/3 back for the wire and 2/3 back for the wire's insulation. Since the
> racket die is bigger than the crimpeable metal portion of the connector,
> I end up with a crimp that starts at the beginning and another one that
> ends at the end (if that makes sense).
>
> I also found that Amp/Tyco has something called a Pro Crimper II and the
> associated dies available for AMP PIDG connectors. Do I just need to buy
> this or the one available at Aero-Electric? If that's the case, that's
> great, just don't want to find out that I'm misunderstanding how the
> crimp is supposed to work before adding to my crimper tool chest.
>
> For what it's worth, I tried searching on AMP, Molex, and Ideal's
> websites and wasn't able to find any documentation on using the
> associated tools. For documentation on using other crimpers, just not
> PIDG crimpers.
>
> Thanks!
> Don
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Starter Off Switch with Single EI? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David" <David@ChalmersFamily.com>
I have heard that starter damage occurs when the engine kicks back. This can occur
after a failed start as you release the start switch and the engine is still
turning. The now-ungrounded mag fires just before the engine reaches TDC and
you potentially damage the starter. One 0-200 owner said he gets 3 kick backs
per starter before it has to be replaced (this was with an impulse-coupled mag)
I took this to heart on my Q200 and installed a circuit to disable the mag for
a few seconds after the starter switch is released. It's very simple and requires
no power other than the starter power. Take the switched 12V starter power
through a diode to a relay coil. Connect the relay contacts to the mag to ground
it during start. To keep the relay energized for a few seconds after the starter
is released, put a large capacitor across the relay coil. The relay will
close when you press the start button and open a second or 2 after you release
it. Probably a good idea to allow the circuit to be disconnected from the mag
in an emergency. I grounded the mag on the tach side of a 1/4A panel mounted
fuse powering the tachometer.
I have been using this for 80 hours. EI on the left, mag on the right. Works great.
You can tell it's working because the tach stays at zero for a couple of
seconds after start. I know it doesn't solve your concern about activating the
starter in flight but you may want to consider it to protect your starter with
a non-impulse mag.
David Chalmers
-----Original Message-----
From: Tinne maha [mailto:tinnemaha@hotmail.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Starter Off Switch with Single EI?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
I am installing single electronic ignition and will most likely upgrade to dual
at some future point. As I'm leaving the magneto withoutan impulse coupler on
the airplaneI'm going to wire my airplane such that the mag is grounded when
the starter is on (similar to Figure Z-11) An upper, spring loaded position on
the switch will activate the starter ground out the mag simultaneously. I can
see myself accidently hitting the starter when checking mag drop. What is the
best way to maintain the 'Starter is off once the Engine is Running' idea with
only one mag?
Right now I'm planning on running power for the strobe and starter through a 2-3
switch such that the starter isdisabled when the strobe light is on.Is there
a better way to get the 'Starter On=Mag Off' 'Engine Running = Starter Disabled'
idea?
Grant
Message 19
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| Subject: | A different way? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Way to go Tom!
I have been looking at a simple way of doing this on a single conductor +ground.
There are lots of possibilities. As Bob would point out, maybe with some increase
of complexity. And although this may be true, weight savings is a driving
force.
But consider that not all the wiring goes to the end of the wing. Some goes to
fuel pumps, sensors, flap motors, speed brakes, whatever...
Lower voltage drop does not correlate with low noise. Remember resistive spark
plug cables are quiet. Consider coaxial cable with the shield as ground. if the
outer insulation wears through, no problem. Or consider good quality twisted
or flat two wire lamp cordage, it is very good stuff, and it comes in 105 DegC.
Good luck,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
I'm not going to buy my kids an encyclopedia. Let them walk to school like I did.
Yogi Berra
Message 20
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| Subject: | Voltage Regulator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
At this price of $10, why wouldn't something like this solid state voltage
regulator from J C Whitney work?
http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=42320&BQ=jcw2
I suggest one could buy two or three and have a spare or two.
Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360
Working on Finish Kit
Aviation in itself is not inherently dangerous. But ..... is terribly
unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect.
..Author unknown
Message 21
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| Subject: | PIDG / Spade / Rachet Tool... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Nev,
Thanks for your comments and help!
Do you happen to have a picture of spade terminal or similar that has
been crimped with the AMP Pro Crimper? Sometimes just seeing what the
preferred tool is supposed to do would tell me if the one I have is
essentially the same. I've searched the Internet and haven't been able
to find one. I was especially surprised that I couldn't find a picture
or tech document on Amp/Tyco's that would show a proper crimp using
their tool.
For what it's worth, I'd prefer to go the ratchet route. Just played
around with the non-ratchet crimper and somehow ended up crimping so
hard that I broke the wire inside (wire insulation was removed clean
with no nicks and the wire wasn't moved much at all before testing on
the fuse block). I'm sure I could get the hang of it, but I'd rather get
known repeatability.
Thanks!
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Neville Kilford [mailto:nkilford@etravel.org]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: PIDG / Spade / Rachet Tool...
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford"
--> <nkilford@etravel.org>
Don,
The tool you mention, the Pro Crimper, is the one I just bought, and I
can tell you it makes a pretty good crimp. The dies are a perfect fit.
It does both crimps in one go, and I simply can't pull the wire out
after it's done.
However, the AMP dies are large too, just as you say. I think Bob's
article is talking about a very narrow-jawed crimp tool, that you have
to use twice to fasten one terminal (once for the wire, and once for the
insulation). However, with the Pro Crimper tool, rather than doing two
separate thin crimps across the PIDG connectors, it does two large
crimps in one go, that cover virtually all of the available grip,
exactly as you describe.
If your tool is doing as I think, it's the same as the AMP tool. I've
read Bob's article "Anatomy of a Good Solderless Terminal Connection"
and it seems to meet all his requirements. If the crimp is supporting
the insulation, holding the wire properly, and is a strong mechanical
joint, I can't think there's a problem.
Hope this helps.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: PIDG / Spade / Rachet Tool...
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach"
> --> <don@pcperfect.com>
>
> Hey Everyone,
>
> I'm going nuts with these Insulated PIDG-Spade Connectors and trying
> to use some of my existing Racket Tools with PIDG dies.
>
> What I notice is that the die for the connector is actually a little
> bigger than the AMP PIDG connectors (i.e. the metal portion underneath
> the insulation isn't quite as long as the racket based die).
> Accordingly to an article that BK pointed me to on his site, it talks
> about crimping 1/3 back for the wire and 2/3 back for the wire's
> insulation. Since the racket die is bigger than the crimpeable metal
> portion of the connector, I end up with a crimp that starts at the
> beginning and another one that ends at the end (if that makes sense).
>
> I also found that Amp/Tyco has something called a Pro Crimper II and
> the associated dies available for AMP PIDG connectors. Do I just need
> to buy this or the one available at Aero-Electric? If that's the case,
> that's great, just don't want to find out that I'm misunderstanding
> how the crimp is supposed to work before adding to my crimper tool
> chest.
>
> For what it's worth, I tried searching on AMP, Molex, and Ideal's
> websites and wasn't able to find any documentation on using the
> associated tools. For documentation on using other crimpers, just not
> PIDG crimpers.
>
> Thanks!
> Don
>
>
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 22
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
Listers,
Does anybody know of a source for the right size alternator belt for a
Lycoming IO360. Hopefully automotive or industrial. I hate to have to
pay Lycoming's price.
Local car mechanic matched the cross section but that size is not made
in very many lenghts, just too long and too short. Cars don't use
individual belts anymore.
Thanks Jim Bean
RV-8 engine room
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: A different way? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Tom,
I will leave the electrical advise for those more qualified.
As for the wires inside channels or tubes:
PVC water tubing is being used by quite a few that I have seen. The diameter
is of course determined by the expected number and size of wires etc. that
will pass through.
I am building an RV-6A and I chose to use light weight black vinyl water
tubing about 3/4" dia. though Vans supplies a good ribbed tubing that is
very light weight.
To stop the wires from suffering abrasion damage use a full double length
plus some extra of nylon cord that will stay in the tube with the wires.
Go to an upholstery shop or a sewing supply store and get some of the white
upholstery padding used to make soft cushions. the material I am talking
about looks like coarse cotton batten.
This material is white in color and will not rot.
You will not need much to make a suitable number of little pads that then
can be tied into the cord at close enough intervals to Act like a series of
gun cleaner pads that will hold the wires etc. in place.
The cord will tied at the ends to form a loop that will hang out of the tube
at both ends.
The pads will be tied along the length of one side of the loop.
With the padded cord in place the wires will stay lightly snug.
With a helper at the other end, the loop can be used to pull or snake wires
in or out what ever the future need may be.
Happy building,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Schiff" <tomschiff@attbi.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: A different way?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom Schiff"
<tomschiff@attbi.com>
>
> I am about to close out the leading edge of the first wing of my
> Glastar. I need to string the wiring first as the area is inaccessible
> after leading edge closeout.
>SNIP<
> I would like to run the wiring through some sort of conduit my concern
> is that the cable would be floating in the conduit and not tied down as
> it is in spam cans. Would the cable chafe from being free inside of the
> conduit or is this OK?
>
> So what do you folks think? It is unconventional but is it OK?
======================================================================
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Get the metric equivalent. There are about 2.5 cm to the inch so their
lengths have more options...about 2 and 1/2 times as many. If you need
matched sets, just buying the same metric length will give you a good set
without added expense.
W.W. Grainger has a very wide selection but I did not see metric sized belts
on their web site. Pages 256-262. I believe that many auto parts
distributors have the v-belts in metric sizes.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean@att.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Alternator Belt
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>
> Listers,
> Does anybody know of a source for the right size alternator belt for a
> Lycoming IO360. Hopefully automotive or industrial. I hate to have to
> pay Lycoming's price.
> Local car mechanic matched the cross section but that size is not made
> in very many lenghts, just too long and too short. Cars don't use
> individual belts anymore.
> Thanks Jim Bean
> RV-8 engine room
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Gates has metric sized belts so if you can find a Gates distributor...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean@att.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Alternator Belt
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>
> Listers,
> Does anybody know of a source for the right size alternator belt for a
> Lycoming IO360. Hopefully automotive or industrial. I hate to have to
> pay Lycoming's price.
> Local car mechanic matched the cross section but that size is not made
> in very many lenghts, just too long and too short. Cars don't use
> individual belts anymore.
> Thanks Jim Bean
> RV-8 engine room
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bill Hibbing" <n744bh@bellsouth.net>
As far as I know, the NAPA brand belts handled by NAPA are made by Gates. I
had to try a few different sizes before I found one that fit OK on my IO-360
but they were real good about letting me return the ones that didn't fit.
Bill
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
> >
> > Listers,
> > Does anybody know of a source for the right size alternator belt for a
> > Lycoming IO360. Hopefully automotive or industrial. I hate to have to
> > pay Lycoming's price.
> > Local car mechanic matched the cross section but that size is not made
> > in very many lenghts, just too long and too short. Cars don't use
> > individual belts anymore.
> > Thanks Jim Bean
> > RV-8 engine room
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Belt |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:10 PM 6/28/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>
>Listers,
>Does anybody know of a source for the right size alternator belt for a
>Lycoming IO360. Hopefully automotive or industrial. I hate to have to
>pay Lycoming's price.
>Local car mechanic matched the cross section but that size is not made
>in very many lenghts, just too long and too short. Cars don't use
>individual belts anymore.
>Thanks Jim Bean
>RV-8 engine room
The belt can vary depending on your starter ring gear
size and alternator attach hardware and its pulley size.
Many stores will exchange a belt if you take the wrong size
one home to try. A well stocked auto parts store will have
what you need, just check with them before you buy about
exchanging for another size if needed.
Call B&C at 316.283.8000 and talk to Bill. He'll be able
to ask you some questions that will let him get you very
close to the right belt the first time.
Bob .. .
Message 28
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| Subject: | Starter Off Switch with Single EI? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:09 PM 6/28/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David" <David@ChalmersFamily.com>
>
>
>I have heard that starter damage occurs when the engine kicks back. This
>can occur after a failed start as you release the start switch and the
>engine is still turning. The now-ungrounded mag fires just before the
>engine reaches TDC and you potentially damage the starter. One 0-200 owner
>said he gets 3 kick backs per starter before it has to be replaced (this
>was with an impulse-coupled mag)
If he would throw away the key switch and put in toggles + a push
button, the
problem goes away . . .
>I took this to heart on my Q200 and installed a circuit to disable the mag
>for a few seconds after the starter switch is released. It's very simple
>and requires no power other than the starter power. Take the switched 12V
>starter power through a diode to a relay coil. Connect the relay contacts
>to the mag to ground it during start. To keep the relay energized for a
>few seconds after the starter is released, put a large capacitor across
>the relay coil. The relay will close when you press the start button and
>open a second or 2 after you release it. Probably a good idea to allow the
>circuit to be disconnected from the mag in an emergency. I grounded the
>mag on the tach side of a 1/4A panel mounted fuse powering the tachometer.
>I have been using this for 80 hours. EI on the left, mag on the right.
>Works great. You can tell it's working because the tach stays at zero for
>a couple of seconds after start. I know it doesn't solve your concern
>about activating the starter in flight but you may want to consider it to
>protect your starter with a non-impulse mag.
See figure Z-11 of http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev10/z10.pdf
This shows how to take two spring loaded toggle switches
for magneto control and wire the starter engage circuity
through the switches such that starter cannot be engaged
with the non-impulse coupled mag ON.
Works with either a mag or EI on the left side.
>I am installing single electronic ignition and will most likely upgrade to
>dual at some future point. As I'm leaving the magneto withoutan impulse
>coupler on the airplaneI'm going to wire my airplane such that the mag is
>grounded when the starter is on (similar to Figure Z-11) An upper, spring
>loaded position on the switch will activate the starter ground out the
>mag simultaneously. I can see myself accidently hitting the starter when
>checking mag drop. What is the best way to maintain the 'Starter is off
>once the Engine is Running' idea with only one mag?
If you wire per Z-11 with EI on left mag, then the engine will start
on electronic ignition . . . this takes care of pre-flight for the
electronic ignition. After engine starts, turn right mag on. This
disables starter. Turn EI off to pre-flight the right mag. Starter
is still disengaged. Turn EI back on and finish your checklist.
>Right now I'm planning on running power for the strobe and starter through
>a 2-3 switch such that the starter isdisabled when the strobe light is
>on.Is there a better way to get the 'Starter On=Mag Off' 'Engine Running
>= Starter Disabled' idea?
Don't understand why you think you need to do this . . .
BTW . . .The mag drop test has significance
for a pair of identically timed mags but is meaningless
with a mixture of systems. The best test is to simply see
that the engine runs smoothly on either ignition system
irrespective of observed RPM variations between the two
systems.
Bob . . .
Message 29
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| Subject: | PIDG / Spade / Rachet Tool... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:45 PM 6/28/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>
>Nev,
>
>Thanks for your comments and help!
>
>Do you happen to have a picture of spade terminal or similar that has
>been crimped with the AMP Pro Crimper? Sometimes just seeing what the
>preferred tool is supposed to do would tell me if the one I have is
>essentially the same. I've searched the Internet and haven't been able
>to find one. I was especially surprised that I couldn't find a picture
>or tech document on Amp/Tyco's that would show a proper crimp using
>their tool.
>
>For what it's worth, I'd prefer to go the ratchet route. Just played
>around with the non-ratchet crimper and somehow ended up crimping so
>hard that I broke the wire inside (wire insulation was removed clean
>with no nicks and the wire wasn't moved much at all before testing on
>the fuse block). I'm sure I could get the hang of it, but I'd rather get
>known repeatability.
Suggest you check out articles at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf
and
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rules/review.html
There's more to it than looks . . . with some practice
you can use a non-rachet tool . . . but when a ratchet
tool is so inexpensive
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/tools/tools.html#rct-1
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/BCcatalog.html
Why struggle with it?
>However, the AMP dies are large too, just as you say. I think Bob's
>article is talking about a very narrow-jawed crimp tool, that you have
>to use twice to fasten one terminal (once for the wire, and once for the
>insulation). However, with the Pro Crimper tool, rather than doing two
>separate thin crimps across the PIDG connectors, it does two large
>crimps in one go, that cover virtually all of the available grip,
>exactly as you describe.
You can use a two-shot hand tool but I prefer the single stroke
tools similar to that cite above.
>If your tool is doing as I think, it's the same as the AMP tool. I've
>read Bob's article "Anatomy of a Good Solderless Terminal Connection"
>and it seems to meet all his requirements. If the crimp is supporting
>the insulation, holding the wire properly, and is a strong mechanical
>joint, I can't think there's a problem.
The article just talks about how to check your tool and technique
irrespective of the type of tool you use.
Bob . . .
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:39 PM 6/28/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
><lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
>At this price of $10, why wouldn't something like this solid state voltage
>regulator from J C Whitney work?
>
>http://www.jcwhitney.com/productnoitem.jhtml?CATID=42320&BQ=jcw2
>
>I suggest one could buy two or three and have a spare or two.
The picture shown doesn't match the part. For that series
of cars, you get a regulator like the Standard VR166
which I've referenced many times as a "generic Ford" regulator.
You can get them even cheaper yet. See
http://www.globemotorists.com/TVI%20Products/tvi_voltage_regulators.htm
Even this link doesn't tell you what the VR166
looks like. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/temp/Generic_Ford_Reg.jpg
Show this picture to any parts store. Tell them you want one
that looks like this. As far as I know, this package was unique
to that one series of Ford Motor Co products and any regulator
you get that looks like this will work. The link I cited above
gives bunch of cross-reference numbers by various manufacturers.
Bob . . .
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