Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:55 AM - Re: LSE EI Installation (Kent Ashton)
2. 06:06 AM - Re: LSE EI Installation (Muzzy Norman E)
3. 07:50 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 07/06/03 (Ted Lemen)
4. 08:33 AM - Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? (Finn Lassen)
5. 08:47 AM - Re: LSE EI Installation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:53 AM - Re: KX-125 and KN-75 wiring, manual discrepancy (Werner Schneider)
7. 09:03 AM - Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? (Don Honabach)
8. 09:06 AM - Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? (Brad Benson)
9. 09:12 AM - Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? (Finn Lassen)
10. 09:18 AM - Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? (Finn Lassen)
11. 09:19 AM - Re: KX-125 and KN-75 wiring, manual discrepancy (HCRV6@aol.com)
12. 09:21 AM - Re: RV-List: LED Position Lights Prototype (David Carter)
13. 09:24 AM - Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? (Gerry Holland)
14. 09:44 AM - Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? (Brad Benson)
15. 10:48 AM - Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? (John Rourke)
16. 11:09 AM - Re: Noise in the headset troubleshooting (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 11:33 AM - Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? (Brad Benson)
18. 11:36 AM - Re: Noise in the headset troubleshooting (long) (Steve Little)
19. 11:58 AM - Re: Noise in the headset troubleshooting (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 12:59 PM - Re: LSE EI Installation (DHPHKH@aol.com)
21. 01:17 PM - Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? (Mark Phillips)
22. 01:31 PM - Re: LSE EI Installation (Phil Birkelbach)
23. 02:46 PM - wire "forking" question (Dan Checkoway)
24. 03:11 PM - FADEC / Z-14 (David Schaefer)
25. 03:59 PM - Re: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter (David Carter)
26. 04:12 PM - Re: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter (Ageless Wings)
27. 04:34 PM - Re: FADEC / Z-14 (John Schroeder)
28. 04:35 PM - Re: LSE EI Installation (Tinne maha)
29. 04:56 PM - Re: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter (John Schroeder)
30. 05:24 PM - irfanview (RSwanson)
31. 06:00 PM - Re: LSE EI Installation (Jim Jewell)
32. 06:25 PM - Re: LSE EI Installation (DHPHKH@aol.com)
33. 06:28 PM - Re: FADEC / Z-14 (David Schaefer)
34. 06:50 PM - Re: Re: RV-List: LED Position Lights Prototype (Tom Brusehaver)
35. 07:16 PM - Re: LSE EI Installation (Jim Bean)
36. 07:32 PM - Re: FADEC / Z-14 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
37. 07:53 PM - Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? (Finn Lassen)
38. 08:38 PM - Re: FADEC / Z-14 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
39. 08:50 PM - Re: LSE EI Installation (richard@riley.net)
40. 08:56 PM - Re: wire "forking" question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
41. 09:14 PM - Diode source and ANL location (Rick Fogerson)
42. 09:40 PM - Re: LSE EI Installation (DHPHKH@aol.com)
43. 09:53 PM - Radio transmission probelm....help! (Tom)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kent Ashton <kjashton@vnet.net>
Grant,
You shouldn't have to split the cases.
You can press out one of the prop flange bushings, leaving a larger
hole in the prop flange to drill and tap through. You can do this with
a large C-Clamp and some pieces of pipe just a bit larger than the
bushing. Some tapping with a plastic hammer helps.
Carefully mark and centerpunch the location for the holes. The holes
need to be right so the timing isn't altered.
Drill to the appropriate depth with a small drill. Put some tape on the
drill to indicate depth.
Drill with the size drill recommended for the tap in a machinest's book.
(Drilling straight-in is the hard part)
Buy a three-tap set for the thread size you need. This is a set that
gradually taps the hole to the correct size. use lots of tapping fluid,
stop when needed to back out the tap and clean away chips
Piece of cake
--Kent Ashton.
Tinne maha wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
>
>I received my electronic ignition from Light Speed Engineering a couple of days
ago. I'm preparing to install it on my Lycoming O-235 but can't figure out how
to drill tap the holes for the sensor bracket without splitting the case.The
way I see itnowthe holes in the prop flange don't line up with the sensor bracket
mounting holes so it seems the case has to be split and the crank removed?
But then I wont have the crank to center the bracket on. How do I get the
drill behind the prop flange?
>Advice from someone who has installed one would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Grant Krueger
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: LSE EI Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Muzzy Norman E" <MuzzyNormanE@JohnDeere.com>
<<I'm preparing to install it on my Lycoming O-235 but can't figure out how
to drill tap the holes for the sensor bracket without splitting the
case.The
way I see itnowthe holes in the prop flange don't line up with the sensor
bracket
mounting holes so it seems the case has to be split and the crank removed?
But then I wont have the crank to center the bracket on. How do I get the
drill
behind the prop flange?>>
On my IO-360 I had to press out one of the prop bushings. This gave enough
clearance that you could go straight in with the drill and tap. I used a
hole saw with the teeth ground off plus a bolt, nut, and washer to press the
bushing out. After installing the sensor bracket, make sure you verify that
the clearance between the sensor and magnets is correct. If you need to
shin something, or remove the sensor, it is much easier with the bushing
out. Once everything is good, use the hole saw and bolt to press the
bushing back into the prop flange. Much easier than splitting the case!
Regards-
Norm
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 07/06/03 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ted Lemen" <tedlem@ecentral.com>
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:24:22 PM PST US
> From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: dead battery
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut"
<sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>
> I recently went to turn on the Master switch on my RV7A (almost done)
> and discovered the battery was dead (I have 2 batteries). I measured the
> voltage (with terminals
> attached) and it read 0.06 V. I tried to charge the battery but it was
long
> gone.
>
> However after removing the terminals (and noticing a small spark) and
> removed the battery
> from the airplane, the voltage read 4.5 V and I fully charged it to 13 V
> over night.
>
> I reinstalled the battery, connected the terminals and have not had a
> problem since. I did discover
> a small screw in the tray of my EXP Bus and removed it. Could have caused
a
> short between the casing
> and circuit board? All the CB were pulled at the time except for the main
> battery (can't be pulled, just
> reset).
>
> Any body have an idea of why my battery read different voltages with the
> terminals connected and
> disconnected and what may have caused this voltage drain? Everything in my
> airplane is powered from the
> power leads on the Exp Bus and the loads are well below the maximum
allowed
> currents.
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A
> Eggenfellner Subaru powered
>
>
> I had a similar problem recently and What I discovered was the RG battery
was shot. I could charge it up and it would read 12.5 volts. the next day it
was still 12.5 volts but all I had to do was put a very low load on it and
the voltage would start dropping. I appeared as an open circuit to the
regulator and it went over voltage., fried a contactor and would have gotten
the radio except I cougt it before it did any damage. I have over voltage
protection now. the battery was only two years old. I am going to replace it
more often from now on.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
Finn
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:53 PM 7/7/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kent Ashton <kjashton@vnet.net>
>
>Grant,
> You shouldn't have to split the cases.
> You can press out one of the prop flange bushings, leaving a larger
>hole in the prop flange to drill and tap through. You can do this with
>a large C-Clamp and some pieces of pipe just a bit larger than the
>bushing. Some tapping with a plastic hammer helps.
>Carefully mark and centerpunch the location for the holes. The holes
>need to be right so the timing isn't altered.
>Drill to the appropriate depth with a small drill. Put some tape on the
>drill to indicate depth.
>Drill with the size drill recommended for the tap in a machinest's book.
> (Drilling straight-in is the hard part)
>Buy a three-tap set for the thread size you need. This is a set that
>gradually taps the hole to the correct size. use lots of tapping fluid,
>stop when needed to back out the tap and clean away chips
>Piece of cake
>--Kent Ashton.
it would be pretty cool if someone could do a series
of photos from which a comic-book work-instruction can
be crafted. I'd be willing to post such a document
should the photos and data me made available to the
task. Klaus SHOULD be doing this but better that we
do it for ourselves than set around complaining that
he hasn't done it.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: KX-125 and KN-75 wiring, manual discrepancy |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
Many thanks Bob for the confirmation, seems nobody did claim this error in
the manual since 94 =(;o((
Kind regards
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: KX-125 and KN-75 wiring, manual discrepancy
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 12:08 AM 7/7/2003 +0200, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider"
> ><wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
> >
> >Dear all,
> >
> >I've wired today my Nav/Com (KX-125) and the Glideslope Receiver (KN75)
all
> >went fine, until I've detected, that in the drawing and the associated
> >wireliste some discrepancies concerning pin layout are.I've the
Installation
> >Manual for the KX-125 (#006-00655-0001) dated Rev 1 January 1994.
> >
> >On the diagram page 2-5 it says:
> >
> > GS 108 MHZ Pin E
> > GS 109 MHZ Pin B
> > GS 110 MHZ Pin C
> > GS 111 MHZ Pin D
>
> The pinout diagram published at
> http://216.55.140.222/Installation_Data/KX125.pdf
> agrees with the above.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Finn,
I believe you want to look for a unit that has a transflective screen.
These are what I see mentioned whenever viewing issues are mentioned and
what folks should look for if they don't want viewing issues.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Finn Lassen [mailto:finnlassen@netzero.net]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
--> <finnlassen@netzero.net>
Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
Finn
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
Finn,
I've been using an Axim for about six months (Janurary); it replaced an IPaq 3650.
The Axim's screen is better in pretty much every respect - it's brighter,
easier to read in direct/indirect sunlight, and is more evenly lit when the
backlight is activated. The Axim also has much better battery life.
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 7/7/2003 at 11:32 AM Finn Lassen wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
><finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>
>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>
>Finn
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
Well, the description says it's transflective, but I really wanted real
life comparison.
Finn
Don Honabach wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
>
>Finn,
>
>I believe you want to look for a unit that has a transflective screen.
>These are what I see mentioned whenever viewing issues are mentioned and
>what folks should look for if they don't want viewing issues.
>
>Don
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Finn Lassen [mailto:finnlassen@netzero.net]
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable?
>
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>--> <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>
>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>
>Finn
>
>
>direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
Thank you, Brad!
Now for the next question: No serial port?
Is pin-out description and connector (plug) available for the connector?
In other words, can I purchase a connector somewhere and make a serial
cable?
The iPaq has both USB and Serial ports available on its cradle
connector. I was able to purchase a connector for it and make a serial
cable to connect to my GPS315, for the AnyWhere Map software.
Finn
Brad Benson wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
>
>
>Finn,
>
>I've been using an Axim for about six months (Janurary); it replaced an IPaq 3650.
The Axim's screen is better in pretty much every respect - it's brighter,
easier to read in direct/indirect sunlight, and is more evenly lit when
the backlight is activated. The Axim also has much better battery life.
>
>Thanks!
>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>RV6AQB underway...
>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
>
>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
>On 7/7/2003 at 11:32 AM Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>><finnlassen@netzero.net>
>>
>>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>>
>>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>>
>>Finn
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: KX-125 and KN-75 wiring, manual discrepancy |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Werner: I found a different discrepancy between the pinout diagram on p 2-11
and the interconnect diagram on p 2-5. I called Honeywell product support at
1-800-257-0726 and got it sorted out. Ask for Glenn at x-2155 if he's
available.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: LED Position Lights Prototype |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Bill, good work!
I already have Aeroflash tip position & stobes that I paid dearly for - but
I also want to run my IFR RV-6 with all electric engine (efi, ignition) on a
35 amp alternator, so am looking for "load shedding" components.
Put me down for a set.
We ought to be able to do a "replacement in lieu of" for the incandescent
bulbs in the Whelen and Aeroflash tip units.
How about "low current" landing and taxi lights next (to replace Halogen 50
or 100 watt bulbs) - that will be a good "load shedder" for the peak
current portion of flight - night IFR approaches & landings.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: LED Position Lights Prototype
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
> Well, after a few delays, including learning how to use the
latest
> printed circuit board (PCB) design software, the prototype LED position
> lights are complete and working perfectly. I tested the finished units and
> they put out more than enough light in all directions to meet FAA specs.
>
> Here is a link to the write-up with some pictures:
>
> <http://www.KillaCycle.com/Lights.htm>
>
> The prototype board is designed to lay flat against the aft wall
> of the Vans sheared tip interior space. It's important to note that the
> actual physical lay-out of the components is quite fluid. That is, as long
> as each of the LEDs is pointing in the direction it needs to, it is
> possible to move any of the components wherever you would like or re-shape
> the board completely.
>
> The next iteration of current regulator PCBs will be considerably
> more compact. I thought I might need de-coupling capacitors, so I put in
> pads for them on the prototype PCBs. However, the circuit works fine
> without them so I will eliminate the pads (and the space they occupy) on
> the next design iteration.
>
>
> _ /|
> \'o.O' Bill Dube'
> =(___)= bdube@al.noaa.gov
> U
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Finn Hi!
>
> Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
One of my fellow Europa Pilots has just got one with his new Dell PC.
>
> Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
Yes! or at least bright English sunshine! It was the first check we did.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland@onetel.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
Yes, there is a serial and USB ports on the Axim just like there are on the IPaq
- you can find pinout specs at this link :
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/bevhoward/SERIAL.htm#Axim
I might also recommend the Axim hardware forums on Dell's web site :
http://forums.us.dell.com/supportforums/board?board.id=dellpda
...there are a number of message threads there from folks who are doing / have
done exactly what you are looking to do.
Best Regards,
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 7/7/2003 at 12:17 PM Finn Lassen wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
><finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
>Thank you, Brad!
>
>Now for the next question: No serial port?
>Is pin-out description and connector (plug) available for the connector?
>In other words, can I purchase a connector somewhere and make a serial
>cable?
>
>The iPaq has both USB and Serial ports available on its cradle
>connector. I was able to purchase a connector for it and make a serial
>cable to connect to my GPS315, for the AnyWhere Map software.
>
>Finn
>
>Brad Benson wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
>>
>>
>>Finn,
>>
>>I've been using an Axim for about six months (Janurary); it replaced an
>IPaq 3650. The Axim's screen is better in pretty much every respect -
>it's brighter, easier to read in direct/indirect sunlight, and is more
>evenly lit when the backlight is activated. The Axim also has much
>better battery life.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>>RV6AQB underway...
>>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
>http://www.notamd.com
>>
>>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>>
>>On 7/7/2003 at 11:32 AM Finn Lassen wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>>><finnlassen@netzero.net>
>>>
>>>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>>>
>>>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>>>
>>>Finn
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Rourke <jrourke@allied-computer.com>
There is a cradle with serial cable connection, Dell Part No. 310-3475
shown on their website; however I ordered and received Dell Part No.
310-3173, which is just a serial port cable... I haven't tried it yet,
but I also just got a Compaq 3955 on a great deal, and here are the
differnces I can see thus far:
The Compaq 3955 is just *slightly* brighter than the Dell Axim; but the
Axim is far brighter than the 3600/3700 series.
The Axim's battery lasts at least twice as long as the 3955
The 3955 display is about 2mm wider and 2mm taller than the Dell, but
the Dell seems to have a crisper display (same resolution)
The Axim is thicker than the 3955; but it includes a CompactFlash slot.
To get the CF slot on the 3955, you need to get the slide-on CF adapter,
which then makes it thicker than the Axim.
And of course, the Axim is half the price of the 3955!
However, the folks at ControlVision say they have not been able to get
the Axim's serial port to work, as of about 3 months ago... I haven't
tried it yet, but will soon; maybe I'll take the whole kit'n'kaboodle to
Osh and try to load it there, on the spot.
-John
part no. 310-3475
Finn Lassen wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
>Thank you, Brad!
>
>Now for the next question: No serial port?
>Is pin-out description and connector (plug) available for the connector?
>In other words, can I purchase a connector somewhere and make a serial
>cable?
>
>The iPaq has both USB and Serial ports available on its cradle
>connector. I was able to purchase a connector for it and make a serial
>cable to connect to my GPS315, for the AnyWhere Map software.
>
>Finn
>
>Brad Benson wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
>>
>>
>>Finn,
>>
>>I've been using an Axim for about six months (Janurary); it replaced an IPaq
3650. The Axim's screen is better in pretty much every respect - it's brighter,
easier to read in direct/indirect sunlight, and is more evenly lit when
the backlight is activated. The Axim also has much better battery life.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>>RV6AQB underway...
>>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
>>
>>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>>
>>On 7/7/2003 at 11:32 AM Finn Lassen wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>>><finnlassen@netzero.net>
>>>
>>>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>>>
>>>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>>>
>>>Finn
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Noise in the headset troubleshooting |
(long)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:22 AM 7/4/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Treff, Arthur"
><Arthur.Treff@Smartm.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>I wanted to share with you some recent events surrounding troubleshooting
>'noisy radio' problems in my 1966 Mooney, just in case this ever happens
>to you. The electrical system is standard "store bought" with battery on
>the firewall, 60A PMA'd alternator with external Zeftronics VR with on
>board over voltage protection. The output of the alt goest thru the
>firewall to the bus bar. (NFG). Gage is battery ammeter and I monitor
>bus voltage via a feature on the Stormscope. Regulator has 800 hours on
>it, and the alternator is a rebuilt with approx 50 hours.
<cut and moved down>
Art,
Thank you for sharing this with us. Let's see what tid-bits
of data we can glean from this narrative . . .
Data point: The problem affected transmit audio quality on TWO radios.
We don't know exactly what controllers on the ground heard (I've
never heard one complain of alternator whine, strobe whine,
motorboating,
over modulation distortion, weak modulation, etc. While this would
be very useful to know, controllers are not experienced listeners
of radios . . . they are expected only to be proficient in the
vernacular unique to their training. The best we can reasonably
expect from these guys is, "yeah, I can understand you good,
not so good, just barely or not at all."
Data point: The fact that both radios were affected in both
transmit and receive audio strongly suggests a major electrical
system antagonist. Problems that show up receive-only or transmit-
only can have simple root causes in the avionics suite. However,
problems with so broad a effect tend to be larger hammers
Data point: The "frying" noise is certainly a different source than the
usual culprits . . . alternator whine and strobe whine.
Data point: Turning on extra loads will generally make
alternator whine louder, not go away.
System loads will have no effect on strobe whine or
from other potential antagonists like blower or pump motors.
Data point: no mention was made of poor alternator performance
either in terms of observed readings on instrumentation or
in terms of keeping battery up and carrying normal system loads.
Inferred data point: Alternator is 50-hour part. It wasn't
stated that the noise was never noticed on the old alternator
but after knowing the diagnosis and fix, we can assume this
was true. Given that the malfunction might have started off
very small and grew with time, it's understandable that the
onset of the problem wasn't tied to installation of a "new"
alternator.
Data point: Turning alternator OFF stops the noise.
Data point: The noise was observed over a long
period of time with no other manifestation of failure
(smoked or overheated stuff that looked/smelled bad).
This is a strong suggestion that the problem lies in the low power
side of the alternator system where normal current flows
are on the order of 3A or less and typically less than
1A in cruise. Faults in the output of the alternator tend
to be high energy things that operate for relatively
short periods of time before gross failure occurs.
E.g.: a loose b-lead nut on an alternator tends to burn
the stud off in a few hours of operation.
<snip>
>
>The lesson, FWIW.
>What started out as a radio annoyance turned out to be a mechanical
>problem on the alternator. The radio and audio noise, as it turns out,
>were the best troubleshooting tools at my disposal. Better that than
>total alternator failure in the goo at night. In the future, I will not
>take changes in headset noise lightly. It could be trying to tell me
>something.
EVERY anomaly is part of a data set. It's like playing the
parlor game CLUE. Some data items are insignificant, others
fit together into a complete story that tells us what's
wrong and suggests a fix. More often than not, problems with
airplanes or any other complex machine are purely mechanical
in nature.
Good piece of work Art, thanks for sharing it with us.
Bob . . .
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
The Axim is a bit different with regards to the serial port; unlike the IPaq, the
DTR line needs to be raised. Simply connecting TX,RX, and GND won't work.
Not hard, but certainly not obvious...
Cheers,
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 7/7/2003 at 1:45 PM John Rourke wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Rourke
><jrourke@allied-computer.com>
>
>There is a cradle with serial cable connection, Dell Part No. 310-3475
>shown on their website; however I ordered and received Dell Part No.
>310-3173, which is just a serial port cable... I haven't tried it yet,
>but I also just got a Compaq 3955 on a great deal, and here are the
>differnces I can see thus far:
>
>The Compaq 3955 is just *slightly* brighter than the Dell Axim; but the
>Axim is far brighter than the 3600/3700 series.
>The Axim's battery lasts at least twice as long as the 3955
>The 3955 display is about 2mm wider and 2mm taller than the Dell, but
>the Dell seems to have a crisper display (same resolution)
>The Axim is thicker than the 3955; but it includes a CompactFlash slot.
>To get the CF slot on the 3955, you need to get the slide-on CF adapter,
>which then makes it thicker than the Axim.
>
>And of course, the Axim is half the price of the 3955!
>
>However, the folks at ControlVision say they have not been able to get
>the Axim's serial port to work, as of about 3 months ago... I haven't
>tried it yet, but will soon; maybe I'll take the whole kit'n'kaboodle to
>Osh and try to load it there, on the spot.
>
>-John
>
>
>part no. 310-3475
>
>Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
><finnlassen@netzero.net>
>>
>>Thank you, Brad!
>>
>>Now for the next question: No serial port?
>>Is pin-out description and connector (plug) available for the connector?
>>In other words, can I purchase a connector somewhere and make a serial
>>cable?
>>
>>The iPaq has both USB and Serial ports available on its cradle
>>connector. I was able to purchase a connector for it and make a serial
>>cable to connect to my GPS315, for the AnyWhere Map software.
>>
>>Finn
>>
>>Brad Benson wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>Finn,
>>>
>>>I've been using an Axim for about six months (Janurary); it replaced an
>IPaq 3650. The Axim's screen is better in pretty much every respect -
>it's brighter, easier to read in direct/indirect sunlight, and is more
>evenly lit when the backlight is activated. The Axim also has much
>better battery life.
>>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>>>RV6AQB underway...
>>>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
>http://www.notamd.com
>>>
>>>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>>>
>>>On 7/7/2003 at 11:32 AM Finn Lassen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>>>><finnlassen@netzero.net>
>>>>
>>>>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>>>>
>>>>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>>>>
>>>>Finn
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Noise in the headset troubleshooting (long) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Little" <stevelittle@comcast.net>
Robert, can you please remove this email from your list. For some reason I
am getting all this emails....
Thank you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Noise in the headset troubleshooting (long)
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 07:22 AM 7/4/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Treff, Arthur"
> ><Arthur.Treff@Smartm.com>
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >I wanted to share with you some recent events surrounding troubleshooting
> >'noisy radio' problems in my 1966 Mooney, just in case this ever happens
> >to you. The electrical system is standard "store bought" with battery on
> >the firewall, 60A PMA'd alternator with external Zeftronics VR with on
> >board over voltage protection. The output of the alt goest thru the
> >firewall to the bus bar. (NFG). Gage is battery ammeter and I monitor
> >bus voltage via a feature on the Stormscope. Regulator has 800 hours on
> >it, and the alternator is a rebuilt with approx 50 hours.
>
> <cut and moved down>
>
>
> Art,
>
> Thank you for sharing this with us. Let's see what tid-bits
> of data we can glean from this narrative . . .
>
> Data point: The problem affected transmit audio quality on TWO radios.
>
> We don't know exactly what controllers on the ground heard (I've
> never heard one complain of alternator whine, strobe whine,
> motorboating,
> over modulation distortion, weak modulation, etc. While this would
> be very useful to know, controllers are not experienced listeners
> of radios . . . they are expected only to be proficient in the
> vernacular unique to their training. The best we can reasonably
> expect from these guys is, "yeah, I can understand you good,
> not so good, just barely or not at all."
>
> Data point: The fact that both radios were affected in both
> transmit and receive audio strongly suggests a major electrical
> system antagonist. Problems that show up receive-only or transmit-
> only can have simple root causes in the avionics suite. However,
> problems with so broad a effect tend to be larger hammers
>
> Data point: The "frying" noise is certainly a different source than
the
> usual culprits . . . alternator whine and strobe whine.
>
> Data point: Turning on extra loads will generally make
> alternator whine louder, not go away.
>
> System loads will have no effect on strobe whine or
> from other potential antagonists like blower or pump motors.
>
> Data point: no mention was made of poor alternator performance
> either in terms of observed readings on instrumentation or
> in terms of keeping battery up and carrying normal system loads.
>
> Inferred data point: Alternator is 50-hour part. It wasn't
> stated that the noise was never noticed on the old alternator
> but after knowing the diagnosis and fix, we can assume this
> was true. Given that the malfunction might have started off
> very small and grew with time, it's understandable that the
> onset of the problem wasn't tied to installation of a "new"
> alternator.
>
> Data point: Turning alternator OFF stops the noise.
>
> Data point: The noise was observed over a long
> period of time with no other manifestation of failure
> (smoked or overheated stuff that looked/smelled bad).
>
> This is a strong suggestion that the problem lies in the low power
> side of the alternator system where normal current flows
> are on the order of 3A or less and typically less than
> 1A in cruise. Faults in the output of the alternator tend
> to be high energy things that operate for relatively
> short periods of time before gross failure occurs.
> E.g.: a loose b-lead nut on an alternator tends to burn
> the stud off in a few hours of operation.
>
> <snip>
> >
> >The lesson, FWIW.
> >What started out as a radio annoyance turned out to be a mechanical
> >problem on the alternator. The radio and audio noise, as it turns out,
> >were the best troubleshooting tools at my disposal. Better that than
> >total alternator failure in the goo at night. In the future, I will not
> >take changes in headset noise lightly. It could be trying to tell me
> >something.
>
> EVERY anomaly is part of a data set. It's like playing the
> parlor game CLUE. Some data items are insignificant, others
> fit together into a complete story that tells us what's
> wrong and suggests a fix. More often than not, problems with
> airplanes or any other complex machine are purely mechanical
> in nature.
>
> Good piece of work Art, thanks for sharing it with us.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Noise in the headset troubleshooting |
(long)
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:35 PM 7/7/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Little"
><stevelittle@comcast.net>
>
>Robert, can you please remove this email from your list. For some reason I
>am getting all this emails....
>
>Thank you.
You do this at the same place where you originally subscribed.
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
<<(Drilling straight-in is the hard part)>>
I installed one on an IO360 A3B6D not to long ago. To keep the drill straight
(perpendicular to the case surface) find a small square block of aluminum
or steel with a thickness a little less than the clearance between the case and
the back side of the flange. Drill a pilot hole through it on your drill press.
Now you have a drill guide. Just hold it firmly against the case and insert
the drill through the pilot hole.
Dan
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
I did a side-by-side in bright sunlight comparo between my Axim and a 3800 series
iPAQ and there seemed to be little difference. Neither were very good with the
light in front of you (behind the PDA) but with the sun behind you shining
directly on the screen, the Axim really shone! The serial cable I purchased from
Dell works fine with the PCFlightSystems EFIS system as far as the GPS & AHRS
goes, but will have to wait till installation complete in the plane to see how
the Navaid/Porcine interface responds...
From The PossumWorks
Mark
Finn Lassen wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
> Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>
> Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>
> Finn
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
LSE also makes a hall effect module that you can stick in the hole where the
mag used to be. Probably not as reliable as the crank sensor but it would
be easier to install. It's more expensive too. :-)
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: LSE EI Installation
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinne maha"
<tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
>
> I received my electronic ignition from Light Speed Engineering a couple of
days ago. I'm preparing to install it on my Lycoming O-235 but can't figure
out how to drill tap the holes for the sensor bracket without splitting the
case.The way I see itnowthe holes in the prop flange don't line up with the
sensor bracket mounting holes so it seems the case has to be split and the
crank removed? But then I wont have the crank to center the bracket on. How
do I get the drill behind the prop flange?
> Advice from someone who has installed one would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Grant Krueger
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | wire "forking" question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm wiring my RV-7 and I'm at a point where I need to make a decision about
how to wire the 3 position lights.
Using an ammeter, I found that each position light draws roughly 2A. Ok, so
2x3 = 6amps average, so let's go with a 10A fuse. Seems typical so far.
My question is what size wire to use...and what the cleanest way to "fork"
the wire out 3 ways would be.
I would lean toward this...
14 AWG between the fuse and the fast-on at the toggle switch, then three
strands of 16 AWG crimped onto the other fast-on at the toggle switch.
Or...does it make any sense to run 14 AWG from the switch out to some "fork"
point around where the wing wiring runs split off, and then go 16 AWG from
there out to the 3 lights?
See what I'm getting at?
It seems simplest just to round up and use 14 AWG across the board, run
wires in parallel all the way to the switch, all the way to ground, etc.
I'm just trying to use lighter wire if possible, minimize the number of
wires, etc.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 24
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
Bob .. In reviewing the Z-14 Dual Battery, Dual Alternator, Split Bus
FADEC version, it appears to me that the S700-1-3 cross-feed switch is
in the 'down' position the system is 'normal' in that the two busses are
separate. If the switch is in the up position, both busses are tied
together. Is this correct?
The reason for the new concern is that I just got off the phone with the
FADEC folks and they strongly recommend against using both batteries to
start the system. They require that one battery be designated the
'starting' battery and the other serve as a 'fully charged' backup to
keep the FADEC running should a pilot grind both batteries down during
continuous starting and then loose an alternator on take-off before the
batteries can recover. The FADEC is connected to both busses and
automatically chooses the buss with the highest voltage.
If my assumption in paragraph one is incorrect, how can I eliminate
tying both batteries together for starting, but tie the two busses
together should there be an alternator failure etc. I need the
redundancy of the two separate systems since I'm all electric, and then
need to tie the busses together in an emergency.
I have attached the FADEC recommended electrical schematics for your
review.
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Richard,
I just tried converting Bob's z13.dwg file to .wmf. Then double clicked
new filename to see if it would open - - Windows ME didn't
have anything to open it with.
- Googled WMF and got links to Microsoft software site - found a Pascal
pgm intended to display a simple wmf file - I don't have Pascal compiler/pgm
on this machine to run this thing.
- The description of wmf sound simple - it uses "native Windows
funciton . . ."
- Viewer, Preview didn't recognize the file type.
Do you have any suggestions on how to display a wmf file?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker
<retasker@optonline.net>
>
> If you are running Windows (of any sort) you can export from AutoCAD
> using the WMF format. This is a vector format that is readable in
> virtually any Windows program and is scalable. That is, you can put the
> entire drawing on the screen, export it to WMF (just select all when
> asked) and then someone can view it in various windows programs and pan
> and zoom to see the details. It is NOT a bitmap file, so it keeps the
> detail at any size - just like the original in AutoCAD.
>
> Or you could download one of the free PDF converter clones to convert it
> to PDF format.
>
> Or people who would like to view AutoCAD files but don't have AutoCAD
> could download Voloview - a free AutoCAD viewer at:
>
> http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/index?siteID=123112&id=837403
>
> This allows viewing and printing (but not modification).
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
> RV-9A right wing
>
> David Carter wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
<dcarter@datarecall.net>
> >
> >Request "peer review"/comments/questions on the attached
Autocad/Intellicad drawing (.dwg file)
> >At the lower center part of drawing, there are 4 changes that I've made
which I'd like comments on.
> >
> >I'm designing a "single PM alternator with 2 17ah batteries" system to
power an electrically dependent Mazda rotary engine (electronic fuel inj &
ignition).
> >
> >I've yet to add "battery busses" and details of what instruments, etc
will feed off the main and endurance and battery 1 & 2 busses. I'm seeking
"validation" of my basic concept, before I go into those details.
> >
> >I don't know how to make this drawing viewable by those without a cad
program. When I convert to .bmp and to .jpg format, I only get the part of
the drawing that shows on the screen. So, . . .
> > if anyone wants it in .jpg, I'll get the upper left and right and
lower left and right quarters of the dwg zoomed in enough so all details
are readable, and make 4 images (.bmp to .jpg conversion) and attach all 4
to an e-mail so anyone can see open and see each quarter of the drawing.
> >
> >David Carter
> >RV-6
> >Nederland, Texas
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Z-13 mod'd by David Carter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ageless Wings" <harley@agelesswings.com>
David...
Here's a fantastic little (LITTLE? <G>) graphic viewer/editor that reads,
displays, edits and converts just about every type of raster graphic file
you can find (including wmf). It also has a really great album/image
organizing program and slide show viewer. Everything in one package, and
it's totally free for the download!
I've been using commercial versions of graphic software for years....this
beats almost all of them.
http://www.irfanview.com/
Harley
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David
>> Carter
>> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 7:00 PM
>> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter
>>
>>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
>> <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>>
>> Richard,
>>
>> I just tried converting Bob's z13.dwg file to .wmf. Then
>> double clicked
>> new filename to see if it would open - -
>> Windows ME didn't
>> have anything to open it with.
>> - Googled WMF and got links to Microsoft software site -
>> found a Pascal
>> pgm intended to display a simple wmf file - I don't have Pascal
>> compiler/pgm
>> on this machine to run this thing.
>> - The description of wmf sound simple - it uses "native Windows
>> funciton . . ."
>> - Viewer, Preview didn't recognize the file type.
>>
>> Do you have any suggestions on how to display a wmf file?
>>
>> David
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Richard Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
>> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter
>>
>>
>> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker
>> <retasker@optonline.net>
>> >
>> > If you are running Windows (of any sort) you can export from AutoCAD
>> > using the WMF format. This is a vector format that is readable in
>> > virtually any Windows program and is scalable. That is, you
>> can put the
>> > entire drawing on the screen, export it to WMF (just select all when
>> > asked) and then someone can view it in various windows programs and pan
>> > and zoom to see the details. It is NOT a bitmap file, so it keeps the
>> > detail at any size - just like the original in AutoCAD.
>> >
>> > Or you could download one of the free PDF converter clones to
>> convert it
>> > to PDF format.
>> >
>> > Or people who would like to view AutoCAD files but don't have AutoCAD
>> > could download Voloview - a free AutoCAD viewer at:
>> >
>> > http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/index?siteID=123112&id=837403
>> >
>> > This allows viewing and printing (but not modification).
>> >
>> > Dick Tasker, 90573
>> > RV-9A right wing
>> >
>> > David Carter wrote:
>> >
>> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
>> <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>> > >
>> > >Request "peer review"/comments/questions on the attached
>> Autocad/Intellicad drawing (.dwg file)
>> > >At the lower center part of drawing, there are 4 changes that
>> I've made
>> which I'd like comments on.
>> > >
>> > >I'm designing a "single PM alternator with 2 17ah batteries" system to
>> power an electrically dependent Mazda rotary engine (electronic
>> fuel inj &
>> ignition).
>> > >
>> > >I've yet to add "battery busses" and details of what instruments, etc
>> will feed off the main and endurance and battery 1 & 2 busses.
>> I'm seeking
>> "validation" of my basic concept, before I go into those details.
>> > >
>> > >I don't know how to make this drawing viewable by those without a cad
>> program. When I convert to .bmp and to .jpg format, I only get
>> the part of
>> the drawing that shows on the screen. So, . . .
>> > > if anyone wants it in .jpg, I'll get the upper left and right and
>> lower left and right quarters of the dwg zoomed in enough so all details
>> are readable, and make 4 images (.bmp to .jpg conversion) and
>> attach all 4
>> to an e-mail so anyone can see open and see each quarter of the drawing.
>> > >
>> > >David Carter
>> > >RV-6
>> > >Nederland, Texas
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: FADEC / Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
David -
Am I missing something? Where does one find the Z-14 FADEC version?
We are building a Lancair ES and would like to have the FADEC. At Sun N
fun, we also learned that there would most likely be a brownout condition
for the FADEC if we crank the engine with both batteries. Jabe told us that
the simplest sollution would be to install a heavier battery that would be
used for cranking and that the crossfeed switch would be off until fail;ure
conditions warrant tying the two systems together.
Bob -
We would like your opinion on the FADEC wiring. I have a .DWG file of it
and it looks fairly straight forward wi/r to adapting it to the Z-14.
Thanks to all,
John
> Bob .. In reviewing the Z-14 Dual Battery, Dual Alternator, Split Bus
> FADEC version,
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread so far! Charlie's then Kent's
separate suggestions to press out one of the prop flange bushings did the trick
for drill alignment. Dan's suggestion about using a square block of steel
or aluminum to keep the drill square to the case sounds like a good one too. I'll
probably drill tap next weekend when I have the time.
I'll take photos of my installation and send them in. Hopefully it will be helpful
to others.
I'm nowhaving a little trouble mounting the ignition coils on the top of the case
where it is recommended by LSE.I can think of at least one way of solving the
problem but I'm hopinganyone with experience willtell me what they did. The
tab on theplastic bracket that the ignition coils came on is not 'long' enough
or 'deep' enough to reach a bolt that holds the case together. I'm a little
weary about using plastic and also about putting a bracket on that bolt. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Grant Krueger
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <BOB.NUCKOLLS@COX.NET>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: LSE EI Installation
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <BOB.NUCKOLLS@COX.NET>
At 08:53 PM 7/7/2003 -0400, you wrote:
-- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kent Ashton <KJASHTON@VNET.NET>
Grant,
You shouldn't have to split the cases.
You can press out one of the prop flange bushings, leaving a larger
hole in the prop flange to drill and tap through. You can do this with
a large C-Clamp and some pieces of pipe just a bit larger than the
bushing. Some tapping with a plastic hammer helps.
Carefully mark and centerpunch the location for the holes. The holes
need to be right so the timing isn't altered.
Drill to the appropriate depth with a small drill. Put some tape on the
drill to indicate depth.
Drill with the size drill recommended for the tap in a machinest's book.
(Drilling straight-in is the hard part)
Buy a three-tap set for the thread size you need. This is a set that
gradually taps the hole to the correct size. use lots of tapping fluid,
stop when needed to back out the tap and clean away chips
Piece of cake
--Kent Ashton.
it would be pretty cool if someone could do a series
of photos from which a comic-book work-instruction can
be crafted. I'd be willing to post such a document
should the photos and data me made available to the
task. Klaus SHOULD be doing this but better that we
do it for ourselves than set around complaining that
he hasn't done it.
Bob . . .
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Try inserting the file into an MS WORD document.
>
> Do you have any suggestions on how to display a wmf file?
>
> David
>
Message 30
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RSwanson" <rswan19@comcast.net>
Couldn't agree more. Be using it for several years. Haven't found
anything better or easier.
R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ageless Wings" <harley@AgelessWings.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ageless Wings"
<harley@agelesswings.com>
>
> David...
>
> Here's a fantastic little (LITTLE? <G>) graphic viewer/editor that reads,
> displays, edits and converts just about every type of raster graphic file
> you can find (including wmf). It also has a really great album/image
> organizing program and slide show viewer. Everything in one package,
and
> it's totally free for the download!
>
> I've been using commercial versions of graphic software for years....this
> beats almost all of them.
>
> http://www.irfanview.com/
>
> Harley
>
>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> >> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
David
> >> Carter
> >> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 7:00 PM
> >> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter
> >>
> >>
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
> >> <dcarter@datarecall.net>
> >>
> >> Richard,
> >>
> >> I just tried converting Bob's z13.dwg file to .wmf. Then
> >> double clicked
> >> new filename to see if it would open - -
> >> Windows ME didn't
> >> have anything to open it with.
> >> - Googled WMF and got links to Microsoft software site -
> >> found a Pascal
> >> pgm intended to display a simple wmf file - I don't have Pascal
> >> compiler/pgm
> >> on this machine to run this thing.
> >> - The description of wmf sound simple - it uses "native Windows
> >> funciton . . ."
> >> - Viewer, Preview didn't recognize the file type.
> >>
> >> Do you have any suggestions on how to display a wmf file?
> >>
> >> David
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Richard Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
> >> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> >> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Z-13 mod'd by David Carter
> >>
> >>
> >> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker
> >> <retasker@optonline.net>
> >> >
> >> > If you are running Windows (of any sort) you can export from AutoCAD
> >> > using the WMF format. This is a vector format that is readable in
> >> > virtually any Windows program and is scalable. That is, you
> >> can put the
> >> > entire drawing on the screen, export it to WMF (just select all when
> >> > asked) and then someone can view it in various windows programs and
pan
> >> > and zoom to see the details. It is NOT a bitmap file, so it keeps
the
> >> > detail at any size - just like the original in AutoCAD.
> >> >
> >> > Or you could download one of the free PDF converter clones to
> >> convert it
> >> > to PDF format.
> >> >
> >> > Or people who would like to view AutoCAD files but don't have
AutoCAD
> >> > could download Voloview - a free AutoCAD viewer at:
> >> >
> >> > http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/index?siteID=123112&id=837403
> >> >
> >> > This allows viewing and printing (but not modification).
> >> >
> >> > Dick Tasker, 90573
> >> > RV-9A right wing
> >> >
> >> > David Carter wrote:
> >> >
> >> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
> >> <dcarter@datarecall.net>
> >> > >
> >> > >Request "peer review"/comments/questions on the attached
> >> Autocad/Intellicad drawing (.dwg file)
> >> > >At the lower center part of drawing, there are 4 changes that
> >> I've made
> >> which I'd like comments on.
> >> > >
> >> > >I'm designing a "single PM alternator with 2 17ah batteries" system
to
> >> power an electrically dependent Mazda rotary engine (electronic
> >> fuel inj &
> >> ignition).
> >> > >
> >> > >I've yet to add "battery busses" and details of what instruments,
etc
> >> will feed off the main and endurance and battery 1 & 2 busses.
> >> I'm seeking
> >> "validation" of my basic concept, before I go into those details.
> >> > >
> >> > >I don't know how to make this drawing viewable by those without a
cad
> >> program. When I convert to .bmp and to .jpg format, I only get
> >> the part of
> >> the drawing that shows on the screen. So, . . .
> >> > > if anyone wants it in .jpg, I'll get the upper left and right
and
> >> lower left and right quarters of the dwg zoomed in enough so all
details
> >> are readable, and make 4 images (.bmp to .jpg conversion) and
> >> attach all 4
> >> to an e-mail so anyone can see open and see each quarter of the
drawing.
> >> > >
> >> > >David Carter
> >> > >RV-6
> >> > >Nederland, Texas
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Grant,
A bracket on the case half bolts is the way to go:
A piece of 1" x 1-1/2" x .125 angle aluminum A bit of work with a hack saw
and some plate nuts touch it up with some filing and mild polishing around
the edges. The holes for the bolts can be located by measuring making a
cardboard template. Leave room under the mount deck for the plate nuts to
clear the case halves. Two longer no.8 course thread bolts tourqued to
spec. A couple of bolts for the coils and you are done.
Torque the case halves right and all will be well,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tinne maha" <tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: LSE EI Installation
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinne maha"
<tinnemaha@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread so far! Charlie's then
Kent's separate suggestions to press out one of the prop flange bushings did
the trick for drill alignment. Dan's suggestion about using a square block
of steel or aluminum to keep the drill square to the case sounds like a good
one too. I'll probably drill tap next weekend when I have the time.
>
>
> I'll take photos of my installation and send them in. Hopefully it will be
helpful to others.
>
>
> I'm nowhaving a little trouble mounting the ignition coils on the top of
the case where it is recommended by LSE.I can think of at least one way of
solving the problem but I'm hopinganyone with experience willtell me what
they did. The tab on theplastic bracket that the ignition coils came on is
not 'long' enough or 'deep' enough to reach a bolt that holds the case
together. I'm a little weary about using plastic and also about putting a
bracket on that bolt. Any suggestions?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Grant Krueger
>
>
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <BOB.NUCKOLLS@COX.NET>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: LSE EI Installation
> Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2003 10:46:52 -0500
>
> -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<BOB.NUCKOLLS@COX.NET>
>
> At 08:53 PM 7/7/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> -- AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kent Ashton <KJASHTON@VNET.NET>
>
> Grant,
> You shouldn't have to split the cases.
> You can press out one of the prop flange bushings, leaving a larger
> hole in the prop flange to drill and tap through. You can do this with
> a large C-Clamp and some pieces of pipe just a bit larger than the
> bushing. Some tapping with a plastic hammer helps.
> Carefully mark and centerpunch the location for the holes. The holes
> need to be right so the timing isn't altered.
> Drill to the appropriate depth with a small drill. Put some tape on the
> drill to indicate depth.
> Drill with the size drill recommended for the tap in a machinest's book.
> (Drilling straight-in is the hard part)
> Buy a three-tap set for the thread size you need. This is a set that
> gradually taps the hole to the correct size. use lots of tapping fluid,
> stop when needed to back out the tap and clean away chips
> Piece of cake
> --Kent Ashton.
>
> it would be pretty cool if someone could do a series
> of photos from which a comic-book work-instruction can
> be crafted. I'd be willing to post such a document
> should the photos and data me made available to the
> task. Klaus SHOULD be doing this but better that we
> do it for ourselves than set around complaining that
> he hasn't done it.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
<<theplastic bracket that the ignition coils came on is not 'long' enough or
'deep' enough to reach a bolt that holds the case together.>>
Plastic bracket? Hmm, mine was supplied with an aluminum. You can't
clamp plastic with a case bolt and expect the bolt to do anything for holding the
case together. You better fabricate something suitable.
Dan
Message 33
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
I guess you could call it a brown-out. The real issue apparently is
cranking with both batteries, draining them both, and then possibly
loosing an alternator on take-off or shortly thereafter. Neither
battery would have enough power to run the FADEC.
Bob was kind enough to draw a FADEC version of Z-14 for me a while ago,
but I think it too ties the batteries together. I'll send it to you
directly.
Regards,
David
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Schroeder
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: FADEC / Z-14
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
<jschroeder@perigee.net>
David -
Am I missing something? Where does one find the Z-14 FADEC version?
We are building a Lancair ES and would like to have the FADEC. At Sun N
fun, we also learned that there would most likely be a brownout
condition
for the FADEC if we crank the engine with both batteries. Jabe told us
that
the simplest sollution would be to install a heavier battery that would
be
used for cranking and that the crossfeed switch would be off until
fail;ure
conditions warrant tying the two systems together.
Bob -
We would like your opinion on the FADEC wiring. I have a .DWG file of it
and it looks fairly straight forward wi/r to adapting it to the Z-14.
Thanks to all,
John
> Bob .. In reviewing the Z-14 Dual Battery, Dual Alternator, Split Bus
> FADEC version,
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: LED Position Lights Prototype |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tom Brusehaver <cozytom@mn.rr.com>
The Cheif Aircraft has a special this month (and
last, so maybe it is something longer). The Welen
nav/strobe 3 light package is 299.50, no power
supply tho.
Still high priced, but $100 cheaper than normal.
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/cgi-bin/hazel.cgi?action=serve&item=/Aircraft/Aircraft.html
David Carter wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Bill, good work!
>
> I already have Aeroflash tip position & stobes that I paid dearly for - but
> I also want to run my IFR RV-6 with all electric engine (efi, ignition) on a
> 35 amp alternator, so am looking for "load shedding" components.
>
> Put me down for a set.
>
> We ought to be able to do a "replacement in lieu of" for the incandescent
> bulbs in the Whelen and Aeroflash tip units.
>
> How about "low current" landing and taxi lights next (to replace Halogen 50
> or 100 watt bulbs) - that will be a good "load shedder" for the peak
> current portion of flight - night IFR approaches & landings.
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: LED Position Lights Prototype
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>>
>> Well, after a few delays, including learning how to use the
>
> latest
>
>>printed circuit board (PCB) design software, the prototype LED position
>>lights are complete and working perfectly. I tested the finished units and
>>they put out more than enough light in all directions to meet FAA specs.
>>
>> Here is a link to the write-up with some pictures:
>>
>><http://www.KillaCycle.com/Lights.htm>
>>
>> The prototype board is designed to lay flat against the aft wall
>>of the Vans sheared tip interior space. It's important to note that the
>>actual physical lay-out of the components is quite fluid. That is, as long
>>as each of the LEDs is pointing in the direction it needs to, it is
>>possible to move any of the components wherever you would like or re-shape
>>the board completely.
>>
>> The next iteration of current regulator PCBs will be considerably
>>more compact. I thought I might need de-coupling capacitors, so I put in
>>pads for them on the prototype PCBs. However, the circuit works fine
>>without them so I will eliminate the pads (and the space they occupy) on
>>the next design iteration.
>>
>>
>> _ /|
>> \'o.O' Bill Dube'
>> =(___)= bdube@al.noaa.gov
>> U
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
I drilled the holes for the bracket through the prop flange. Keep
turning it until one lines up. If you use a 6 inch or 12 inch drill the
flange hole dosn't have to line up exactly, just enough overlap to allow
the drill shank. I echo the others, call Klaus.
Jim Bean
RV-8 engine room
Message 36
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:32 PM 7/7/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Schaefer"
><dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
>
>I guess you could call it a brown-out. The real issue apparently is
>cranking with both batteries, draining them both, and then possibly
>loosing an alternator on take-off or shortly thereafter. Neither
>battery would have enough power to run the FADEC.
>
>Bob was kind enough to draw a FADEC version of Z-14 for me a while ago,
>but I think it too ties the batteries together. I'll send it to you
>directly.
>
>Regards,
the FADEC version removes the automatic paralleling
feature for cranking that is recommended and shown
in the stock configuration for Z-14. In the FADEC
version, engine is cranked from that main battery
and equipment that cannot live in the real world runs
from the isolated, fantasy bus powered by the aux battery.
There is still a cross-feed feature for use when either
alternator craps . . . in this case, the crossfeed contactor
can be replaced with smaller relay because this circuit
is no longer expected to carry cranking currents.
Bob . . .
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Dell Axim X5 PDA - Sunlight readable? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
Thank you very much, all of you, and especially Brad for the tech info!
Finn
Brad Benson wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
>
>Yes, there is a serial and USB ports on the Axim just like there are on the IPaq
- you can find pinout specs at this link :
>
>http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/bevhoward/SERIAL.htm#Axim
>
>I might also recommend the Axim hardware forums on Dell's web site :
>
>http://forums.us.dell.com/supportforums/board?board.id=dellpda
>
>...there are a number of message threads there from folks who are doing / have
done exactly what you are looking to do.
>
>Best Regards,
>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>RV6AQB underway...
>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
>
>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
>On 7/7/2003 at 12:17 PM Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>><finnlassen@netzero.net>
>>
>>Thank you, Brad!
>>
>>Now for the next question: No serial port?
>>Is pin-out description and connector (plug) available for the connector?
>>In other words, can I purchase a connector somewhere and make a serial
>>cable?
>>
>>The iPaq has both USB and Serial ports available on its cradle
>>connector. I was able to purchase a connector for it and make a serial
>>cable to connect to my GPS315, for the AnyWhere Map software.
>>
>>Finn
>>
>>Brad Benson wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>Finn,
>>>
>>>I've been using an Axim for about six months (Janurary); it replaced an
>>>
>>>
>>IPaq 3650. The Axim's screen is better in pretty much every respect -
>>it's brighter, easier to read in direct/indirect sunlight, and is more
>>evenly lit when the backlight is activated. The Axim also has much
>>better battery life.
>>
>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>>>RV6AQB underway...
>>>"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
>>>
>>>
>>http://www.notamd.com
>>
>>
>>>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>>>
>>>On 7/7/2003 at 11:32 AM Finn Lassen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
>>>><finnlassen@netzero.net>
>>>>
>>>>Anybody have the Dell Axim X5 PDA (and the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC) ?
>>>>
>>>>Is it as readable in direct sunlight as the iPaq 3630 Pocket PC?
>>>>
>>>>Finn
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: FADEC / Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:14 PM 7/7/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Schaefer"
><dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
>
>Bob .. In reviewing the Z-14 Dual Battery, Dual Alternator, Split Bus
>FADEC version, it appears to me that the S700-1-3 cross-feed switch is
>in the 'down' position the system is 'normal' in that the two busses are
>separate. If the switch is in the up position, both busses are tied
>together. Is this correct?
The Z-14 I'm looking at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Appendix_Z_Drawings/z14j.pdf
uses an S700-2-50 that is normally down (ALL OFF). For engine
cranking, the switch is raised fully up against the spring loaded
top position to (a) close crossfeed contactor and (b) engerize
starter.
After engine start, the switch is returned to the fully down,
ALL OFF position.
Should one alternator fail, you have the option of moving the
switch to the mid, CROSSFEED ON position to share remaining
alternator power between both systems.
>The reason for the new concern is that I just got off the phone with the
>FADEC folks and they strongly recommend against using both batteries to
>start the system. They require that one battery be designated the
>'starting' battery and the other serve as a 'fully charged' backup to
>keep the FADEC running should a pilot grind both batteries down during
>continuous starting and then loose an alternator on take-off before the
>batteries can recover. The FADEC is connected to both busses and
>automatically chooses the buss with the highest voltage.
This is BS . . . First, any owner of a OBAM aircraft
that "grinds his battery(s) down" getting the engine started
needs to fix his engine. Only ham-fisted spam-can pilots
do such things because fixing anything is always expensive.
If you can't get your engine started in a few revolutions
of the prop and less than 5% of a battery's total capacity,
ESPECIALLY with FADEC, there's something wrong that should
be fixed.
If this is the same FADEC Lancair has been working
with, then they failed to tell you that their system won't
function at battery voltage levels NORMALLY associated
with engine cranking. The REAL reason they need two
batteries is to keep the system from going brain-dead
during cranking.
>If my assumption in paragraph one is incorrect, how can I eliminate
>tying both batteries together for starting, but tie the two busses
>together should there be an alternator failure etc. I need the
>redundancy of the two separate systems since I'm all electric, and then
>need to tie the busses together in an emergency.
In the FADEC version of Z-14
http://216.55.140.222/temp/z14_FADEC.pdf
we see a single pole, S700-1-3 use to control cross-feed contactor
INDEPENDENTLY of the starter pushbutton. Normal postion of the
crossfeed control during engine cranking is OFF to protect the
fantasy bus.
Except for the acknowledged inability of the FADEC to
live in the real world, there's no reason for any kind
of auto-select of a higher voltage battery . . . especially
if your OBAM aircraft has two properly maintained RG batteries,
two alternators of proven track-record like B&C and the
ability to crossfeed the two systems.
Clearly, folks who produce this system consider
the classic spam-can electrical system to be their major
target market. Shortcomings of these systems (as illustrated
in chapter 17) and the lack of understanding of most
folks who fly them combined with the shortcomings of
their own product SHOULD raise a lot of concern in
the legal department. Hence a "requirement" to drive
the FADEC from dual batteries with some type of
auto-select circuit that favors a higher voltage battery.
You can't send attachments through the list-server but
I suspect the circuit simply takes a pair of diodes to two
batteries such that the higher voltage source picks up
FADEC loads. You can use this if you wish in the
z14_FADEC by simply taking a FADEC feed from both
battery busses . . .
Bob . . .
Message 39
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tinnemaha@hotmail.com
| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
At 08:53 PM 7/7/03 -0400, Kent Ashton wrote:
>-
>Buy a three-tap set for the thread size you need. This is a set that
>gradually taps the hole to the correct size. use lots of tapping fluid,
Good advice
>stop when needed to back out the tap and clean away chips
Turn 1.5 turns clockwise, then 1 turn counterclockwise. Repeat. Every 5
cycles, pull the tap out and clean.
>Piece of cake
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: wire "forking" question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:41 PM 7/7/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I'm wiring my RV-7 and I'm at a point where I need to make a decision about
>how to wire the 3 position lights.
>
>Using an ammeter, I found that each position light draws roughly 2A. Ok, so
>2x3 = 6amps average, so let's go with a 10A fuse. Seems typical so far.
>
>My question is what size wire to use...and what the cleanest way to "fork"
>the wire out 3 ways would be.
>
>I would lean toward this...
>
>14 AWG between the fuse and the fast-on at the toggle switch, then three
>strands of 16 AWG crimped onto the other fast-on at the toggle switch.
>
>Or...does it make any sense to run 14 AWG from the switch out to some "fork"
>point around where the wing wiring runs split off, and then go 16 AWG from
>there out to the 3 lights?
>
>See what I'm getting at?
>
>It seems simplest just to round up and use 14 AWG across the board, run
>wires in parallel all the way to the switch, all the way to ground, etc.
>I'm just trying to use lighter wire if possible, minimize the number of
>wires, etc.
If it were my airplane, I'd use a 7A fuse and bring a single
20AWG from fuse to switch and three 20AWG wires into a single
blue PIDG terminal at the output side of the position
lights switch. See:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/3x20Blue.jpg
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 41
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| Subject: | Diode source and ANL location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Hi Bob,
You specified the use of a 1N4005 diode on the solenoid terminals of an S704-1
relay. Do you have a source for this diode?
Also, after thinking it over, I see a modest benefit to hanging the starter solenoid
and ANL 40 current limiter on the engine side of the firewall (smaller firewall
penetration, starter contactor away from my feet. Is this an acceptable
environment for these two electrical devices?
thanks, Rick Fogerson
RV3 finish kit
Boise, ID
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: LSE EI Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
Richard,
Better tell him about your melted RG-58 to the coils.
Dan
Message 43
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| Subject: | Radio transmission probelm....help! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom" <tomrv8@gvtc.com>
Hi all,
I'm having a transmitting problem with the radio in my RV-4. Here's the
background;
16 year old Terra TX 720 dinosaur radio with pushbutton frequency change
RST intercom, built by my amatuer hands 16 years ago
Push to talk button on control stick
Reception/ transmission has always been fine, never any grief
Problem;
Other planes I fly with report they are not receiving my voice
transmissions (it is actually intermittent, occasionally they will
"hear" me at good volume)
Factors to consider;
I am receiving full volume sidetone in my headset (I assume that means
the microphone is OK)
Happens whether I'm using the pilot or passenger jacks
Changing headsets has no effect
Ever since the first time I used the radio, it has a very distictive
"ping" when I press the push to talk switch. It is audible both
in my headset, as well as being received by the planes I fly with. Even
now, with the inability of others to hear my voice transmission, the
"ping" is still very audible to them. (I assume that means the antennae is
OK)
When I've tested the unit on the ground using my handheld radio to
listen to the transmission, I clearly hear the "ping", and actually
can hear my voice transmission at a "very" low level.
I would really like you guys to tell me to just throw away the radio and get
a real one and all my troubles will be over , but I'd better make sure the
radio is the culprit before I go to that extreme.
Thanks for the help,
Tom Chapman
RV-4 N153TK
1020 hours of fun
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