Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:53 AM - Seriel multiplexer/swithc (Ian Scott)
2. 06:01 AM - Re: FADEC / Z-14 (John Schroeder)
3. 06:17 AM - Audio Isolator/Mixer (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
4. 06:28 AM - Re: Radio transmission probelm....help! (James E. Clark)
5. 06:44 AM - Cannon Plug Kit! (CBFLESHREN@aol.com)
6. 06:50 AM - Re: Cannon Plug Kit! (CBFLESHREN@aol.com)
7. 07:30 AM - Re: Diode source and ANL location (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 07:30 AM - Re: Seriel multiplexer/swithc (Don Honabach)
9. 08:00 AM - Re: LED Position lights. (Eric M. Jones)
10. 09:05 AM - Re: Option for alternator B-lead fuse (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 09:32 AM - Re: wire "forking" question (Rick Caldwell)
12. 10:36 AM - Re: Re: LED Position lights. (John Loram)
13. 10:46 AM - Re: Re: LED Position lights. (Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD)
14. 11:01 AM - Re: Diode source and ANL location (Dan Checkoway)
15. 11:15 AM - Re: Movie ()
16. 11:44 AM - Re: Audio Isolator/Mixer (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 11:47 AM - Re: FADEC / Z-14 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 01:01 PM - Re: Diode source and ANL location (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 01:14 PM - Re: Led Position Lights (Eric M. Jones)
20. 01:16 PM - Re: Radio transmission probelm....help! (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 02:01 PM - Multimeter test adaptor (Rick Fogerson)
22. 02:17 PM - Common questions (Re: Diode source and ANL location) (Neville Kilford)
23. 03:21 PM - LED position lights...Alternative? (James Freeman)
24. 03:35 PM - Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary (David Carter)
25. 07:24 PM - Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary (John Schroeder)
26. 07:26 PM - Audio Isolation Amp/Mixer Project (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
27. 09:09 PM - Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary (Terry Watson)
28. 11:16 PM - PIDG Crimps... (Don Honabach)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Seriel multiplexer/swithc |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ian Scott" <jabiru22@yahoo.com.au>
HI all,
I am connecting the 2 GPS units to the Ipaq for mapping purposes, and I
also want to be able to switch to sat phone or CDMA phone to check
weather and file plans etc, is there a suitable switch that can switch
one serial signal to 5 or so sources, that is small and looks good?
Thanks
Ian
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: FADEC / Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Bob -
I have the Aerosance FADEC wiring diagrams converted to a .dwg. I'll send
it to you via separate email. Let me know if this address won't work:
nuckolls@aeroelectric.com
This issue is critical to our electrical design. Right now, we have one
feed off of each battery buss (Z-14) to a switch on the panel for each lead
and then to the Aerosance FADEC. The Crossfeed will be only an on-off
switch. Start will be a separate switch. Procedurally we would plan to use
one battery (main) to start. This battery would initially be a 17AH RG, but
could easily go to a larger one if experience warrants it. The other
battery would be on for start and will pick up the FADEC demand during
start. As I understand it, each of the two channels of the FADEC are
connected to their own power source and run off of that source. In our
case, it is the two batteries. If one source goes below about 10.5 v, as I
recollect Jabe Luttrell's (Aerosance) words, the unit switches to the
higher voltage source. This looks pretty standard design to me.
If you get the chance to look over the Aerosance diagrams, I would most
appreciate getting your comments and suggestions on whether or not more
mods to Z-14 should be made.
BTW, this is the FADEC that Lancair has been working with. It is also
installed in Velocity's new factory demo. If it would help, I could contact
Velocity to see how they wired it. Their problem initially was not with
electrical. It was with boost pump pressure (engine driven).
Thanks,
John
>> Bob .. In reviewing the Z-14 Dual Battery, Dual Alternator, Split Bus
>> FADEC version, it appears to me that the S700-1-3 cross-feed switch is
>> in the 'down' position the system is 'normal' in that the two busses are
>> separate. If the switch is in the up position, both busses are tied
>> together. Is this correct?
>
> The Z-14 I'm looking at
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Appendix_Z_Drawings/z14j.pdf
>
> uses an S700-2-50 that is normally down (ALL OFF). For engine
> cranking, the switch is raised fully up against the spring loaded
> top position to (a) close crossfeed contactor and (b) engerize
> starter.
>
> After engine start, the switch is returned to the fully down,
> ALL OFF position.
>
> Should one alternator fail, you have the option of moving the
> switch to the mid, CROSSFEED ON position to share remaining
> alternator power between both systems.
>
>
>> The reason for the new concern is that I just got off the phone with the
>> FADEC folks and they strongly recommend against using both batteries to
>> start the system. They require that one battery be designated the
>> 'starting' battery and the other serve as a 'fully charged' backup to
>> keep the FADEC running should a pilot grind both batteries down during
>> continuous starting and then loose an alternator on take-off before the
>> batteries can recover. The FADEC is connected to both busses and
>> automatically chooses the buss with the highest voltage.
>
>
> This is BS . . . First, any owner of a OBAM aircraft
> that "grinds his battery(s) down" getting the engine started
> needs to fix his engine. Only ham-fisted spam-can pilots
> do such things because fixing anything is always expensive.
> If you can't get your engine started in a few revolutions
> of the prop and less than 5% of a battery's total capacity,
> ESPECIALLY with FADEC, there's something wrong that should
> be fixed.
>
> If this is the same FADEC Lancair has been working
> with, then they failed to tell you that their system won't
> function at battery voltage levels NORMALLY associated
> with engine cranking. The REAL reason they need two
> batteries is to keep the system from going brain-dead
> during cranking.
>
>> If my assumption in paragraph one is incorrect, how can I eliminate
>> tying both batteries together for starting, but tie the two busses
>> together should there be an alternator failure etc. I need the
>> redundancy of the two separate systems since I'm all electric, and then
>> need to tie the busses together in an emergency.
>
> In the FADEC version of Z-14
>
> http://216.55.140.222/temp/z14_FADEC.pdf
>
> we see a single pole, S700-1-3 use to control cross-feed contactor
> INDEPENDENTLY of the starter pushbutton. Normal postion of the
> crossfeed control during engine cranking is OFF to protect the
> fantasy bus.
>
> Except for the acknowledged inability of the FADEC to
> live in the real world, there's no reason for any kind
> of auto-select of a higher voltage battery . . . especially
> if your OBAM aircraft has two properly maintained RG batteries,
> two alternators of proven track-record like B&C and the
> ability to crossfeed the two systems.
>
> Clearly, folks who produce this system consider
> the classic spam-can electrical system to be their major
> target market. Shortcomings of these systems (as illustrated
> in chapter 17) and the lack of understanding of most
> folks who fly them combined with the shortcomings of
> their own product SHOULD raise a lot of concern in
> the legal department. Hence a "requirement" to drive
> the FADEC from dual batteries with some type of
> auto-select circuit that favors a higher voltage battery.
>
> You can't send attachments through the list-server but
> I suspect the circuit simply takes a pair of diodes to two
> batteries such that the higher voltage source picks up
> FADEC loads. You can use this if you wish in the
> z14_FADEC by simply taking a FADEC feed from both
> battery busses . . .
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
--
Message 3
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| Subject: | Audio Isolator/Mixer |
07/08/2003 09:17:06 AM,
Serialize complete at 07/08/2003 09:17:06 AM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Hi All,
Does anyone have an update on the status of the
audio isolator that Bob was working on?
(Inquiring minds and all that)
Ira N224XS
Wiring 95% done
In Paint Shop!
Message 4
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| Subject: | Radio transmission probelm....help! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Might want to check the connections to the antenna.
If you could rig up another temporary antenna, you might be able to note
whether there is a difference.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tom
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2003 12:54 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Radio transmission probelm....help!
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom" <tomrv8@gvtc.com>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm having a transmitting problem with the radio in my RV-4. Here's the
> background;
> 16 year old Terra TX 720 dinosaur radio with pushbutton
> frequency change
> RST intercom, built by my amatuer hands 16 years ago
> Push to talk button on control stick
> Reception/ transmission has always been fine, never any grief
>
> Problem;
> Other planes I fly with report they are not receiving my voice
> transmissions (it is actually intermittent, occasionally they will
> "hear" me at good volume)
>
> Factors to consider;
> I am receiving full volume sidetone in my headset (I assume that means
> the microphone is OK)
> Happens whether I'm using the pilot or passenger jacks
> Changing headsets has no effect
> Ever since the first time I used the radio, it has a very distictive
> "ping" when I press the push to talk switch. It is audible
> both
> in my headset, as well as being received by the planes I fly with. Even
> now, with the inability of others to hear my voice
> transmission, the
> "ping" is still very audible to them. (I assume that means the antennae is
> OK)
> When I've tested the unit on the ground using my handheld radio to
> listen to the transmission, I clearly hear the "ping", and
> actually
> can hear my voice transmission at a "very" low level.
>
> I would really like you guys to tell me to just throw away the
> radio and get
> a real one and all my troubles will be over , but I'd better make sure the
> radio is the culprit before I go to that extreme.
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Tom Chapman
> RV-4 N153TK
> 1020 hours of fun
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Cannon Plug Kit! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CBFLESHREN@aol.com
If anyone cares, here is a (pricey) Cannon Plug Tool kit on Ebay< <A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2543012771&category=26261">
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2543012771&category=26261 >
Do Not Archive Chris
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cannon Plug Kit! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CBFLESHREN@aol.com
Sorry for the Hyper link - I meant to Copy & Paste- Do Not Archive
Chris
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Diode source and ANL location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:16 PM 7/7/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
>
>Hi Bob,
>You specified the use of a 1N4005 diode on the solenoid terminals of an
>S704-1 relay. Do you have a source for this diode?
Radio Shack
>Also, after thinking it over, I see a modest benefit to hanging the
>starter solenoid and ANL 40 current limiter on the engine side of the
>firewall (smaller firewall penetration, starter contactor away from my
>feet. Is this an acceptable environment for these two electrical devices?
These parts have lived long and useful lives on the
forward side of the firewall on over 100,000 airplanes.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Seriel multiplexer/swithc |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Ian,
If I understand correctly, you want to switch 5 incoming serial leads to
your PocketPC - is that correct?
If so, the ultimate would be to write a PocketPC program that
communicated to a uController which in turn would switch the serial
lines and select the program that is associated with serial data.
It seems that most of the devices out there don't use the DTR and 'extra
lines' of the RS-232 interface. As such, you could use those lines to
signal to the uController what action you wanted performed.
It would be a lot of work and obviously the background would need to be
there or learned, but then you don't have another switch on the panel.
With that said, one obstacle is that the programs running on your
PocketPC will all assume the data on the serial port is for them which
could get complicated very quickly. If you can get a USB connection on
the PocketPC, Qualtech makes a USB to (2,4,6, or 8) Serial Port
Converter that might be useful and eliminate the need for a switch. They
also make PC Card versions but I'm not sure how many serial ports are
supported or whether they include drivers for the PocketPC.
Good Luck,
Don Honabach
-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Scott [mailto:jabiru22@yahoo.com.au]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Seriel multiplexer/swithc
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ian Scott"
--> <jabiru22@yahoo.com.au>
HI all,
I am connecting the 2 GPS units to the Ipaq for mapping purposes, and I
also want to be able to switch to sat phone or CDMA phone to check
weather and file plans etc, is there a suitable switch that can switch
one serial signal to 5 or so sources, that is small and looks good?
Thanks
Ian
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: LED Position lights. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
(Excerpt from letter to Bill Dube')
I have to respectfully disagree on your LED position lights. They are not FAA legal as they are currently designed. Please review my note: http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledpositionlights.htm also my white LED tail light stuff.
The whole trick is that the "Hi-Output" LEDs have very narrow beams. It takes a
bushel of them to provide hemispherical coverage. If you diffuse the beam, then
you lower the brightness. When buying LEDs, FIRST you buy the angle, then you
figure out how bright they have to be, or how many you need. Photometrics is
tricky stuff, and harder than it needs to be, but the FAA and the physics doesn't
care.
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
"Nothing is too wonderful to be true."
- James Clerk Maxwell, discoverer of electromagnetism
"Too much of a good thing can be wonderful."
- Mae West, discoverer of personal magnetism
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Option for alternator B-lead fuse |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:10 AM 7/7/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> Bob,
>
>I would like to get your opinion on the use of a fuse holder similar to
>the following for alternator b-lead protection forward of the firewall:
>
>http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-08KCpdYV9zh/ProdView.asp?s=0&cc=01&g=716&id=morephotos&pi=1&i=575CPPFH4&display=L#morephotos
>
>These are commonly used in car stereo installations and are designed to
>go under the hood, near the battery. My plan is to have it mounted to
>the engine mount using adel clamps near the starter contactor. 40 Amp
>fuses are available (for my 40 amp B&C alternator.) The one drawback I
>can see is that the attachment of the wires is done with a set screw
>rather than a clamped connection. My alternative is to use a Bussmann
>JJS/JJN type fuse as shown in your book.
Hardware for automotive guitar-driven
rock-crushers, as you have noted, do not feature
gas-tight connections so prized by those who
deliver solderless hardware to the aerospace
industry. The JJS/JJN series fuses can be purchased
through local electrical supply houses. You might
also consider miniature versions of the ANL series
fuses. If you have a high speed connection, download
this catalog and check out the MIDI series fuses
from Littlefuse:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/Littlefuse.pdf
There's a MAXI version of the small plastic
fuses. See:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/maxifuse.pdf
This device would be suitable for small alternator
b-lead protection. I'd have no heartburn with using
a MAX40 fuse in the b-lead of a 40A machine. Automotive
parts stores carry in-line fuse holders for this
plastic super-fuse. See:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/MAX_InLine.pdf
The options offered above are much superior
to the device you cited.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: wire "forking" question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Caldwell" <racaldwell@hotmail.com>
Dan,
On my RV-6, I installed some small terminal strips on the rear side of the
spar. I got it at RS. I ran the nav lights to it then used three jumpers for
the three smaller wires to the lights. I also used RMD landing lights in the
wing tips so this also goes to the terminal strip. I later added a wig/wag
flasher from Gall's on the lights which was easy to wire in since I had that
strip to work with.
Rick Caldwell
RV-6 & One Design
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: wire "forking" question
>Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 14:41:58 -0700
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
><dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I'm wiring my RV-7 and I'm at a point where I need to make a decision about
>how to wire the 3 position lights.
>
>Using an ammeter, I found that each position light draws roughly 2A. Ok,
>so
>2x3 = 6amps average, so let's go with a 10A fuse. Seems typical so far.
>
>My question is what size wire to use...and what the cleanest way to "fork"
>the wire out 3 ways would be.
>
>I would lean toward this...
>
>14 AWG between the fuse and the fast-on at the toggle switch, then three
>strands of 16 AWG crimped onto the other fast-on at the toggle switch.
>
>Or...does it make any sense to run 14 AWG from the switch out to some
>"fork"
>point around where the wing wiring runs split off, and then go 16 AWG from
>there out to the 3 lights?
>
>See what I'm getting at?
>
>It seems simplest just to round up and use 14 AWG across the board, run
>wires in parallel all the way to the switch, all the way to ground, etc.
>I'm just trying to use lighter wire if possible, minimize the number of
>wires, etc.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: LED Position lights. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Loram <johnl@loram.org>
Perhaps not quite as expensive or tricky as in the past.
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
regards, -john-
johnl@loram.org
www.loram.org
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric M. Jones [mailto:emjones@charter.net]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED Position lights.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
(Excerpt from letter to Bill Dube')
I have to respectfully disagree on your LED position lights. They are not
FAA legal as they are currently designed. Please review my note:
http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledpositionlights.htm also my white LED
tail light stuff.
The whole trick is that the "Hi-Output" LEDs have very narrow beams. It
takes a bushel of them to provide hemispherical coverage. If you diffuse the
beam, then you lower the brightness. When buying LEDs, FIRST you buy the
angle, then you figure out how bright they have to be, or how many you need.
Photometrics is tricky stuff, and harder than it needs to be, but the FAA
and the physics doesn't care.
Eric M. Jones
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: LED Position lights. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD <John.Livingston@wpafb.af.mil>
Eric,
Boy, it's been awhile since I've seen this much hand waving. How about a little
mathematical rigor. If you are going to question someone's work fine, but
do it well.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric M. Jones [mailto:emjones@charter.net]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED Position lights.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
(Excerpt from letter to Bill Dube')
I have to respectfully disagree on your LED position lights. They are not FAA legal as they are currently designed. Please review my note: http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledpositionlights.htm also my white LED tail light stuff.
The whole trick is that the "Hi-Output" LEDs have very narrow beams. It takes a
bushel of them to provide hemispherical coverage. If you diffuse the beam, then
you lower the brightness. When buying LEDs, FIRST you buy the angle, then you
figure out how bright they have to be, or how many you need. Photometrics is
tricky stuff, and harder than it needs to be, but the FAA and the physics doesn't
care.
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
"Nothing is too wonderful to be true."
- James Clerk Maxwell, discoverer of electromagnetism
"Too much of a good thing can be wonderful."
- Mae West, discoverer of personal magnetism
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Diode source and ANL location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >Hi Bob,
> >You specified the use of a 1N4005 diode on the solenoid terminals of an
> >S704-1 relay. Do you have a source for this diode?
>
> Radio Shack
I think Bob likes to see people squirm on this one because he is probably
annoyed at being asked this same question (among others) about 8x a month.
I was the annoying one just a few weeks ago, don't feel bad. 8-)
But Bob, a part #, a part #!
Radio Shack #276-1141 (pack of 2)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <phil@petrasoft.net>
Please see the attached zip file for details.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Audio Isolator/Mixer |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:17 AM 7/8/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
>
>Hi All,
>
>Does anyone have an update on the status of the
>audio isolator that Bob was working on?
>
>(Inquiring minds and all that)
The hardware is all done and tested. I'm working
on the companion article that will describe how
it's assembled and set up.
The complete data package will be published shortly.
In the mean time, those with some knowledge and
skills to proceed on preliminary data can go now to
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
I have a few bare etched circuit boards at $20 each.
The assembled and tested prototype is available for
$100 first come first served. You can also download
the ECB artwork if you choose to order boards yourself
from Express PCB
http://www.expresspcb.com/
Bob . . .
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: FADEC / Z-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:00 AM 7/8/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
><jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
>Bob -
>
>I have the Aerosance FADEC wiring diagrams converted to a .dwg. I'll send
>it to you via separate email. Let me know if this address won't work:
>nuckolls@aeroelectric.com
use bob.nuckolls@cox.net
>This issue is critical to our electrical design. Right now, we have one
>feed off of each battery buss (Z-14) to a switch on the panel for each lead
>and then to the Aerosance FADEC. The Crossfeed will be only an on-off
>switch. Start will be a separate switch. Procedurally we would plan to use
>one battery (main) to start. This battery would initially be a 17AH RG, but
>could easily go to a larger one if experience warrants it. The other
>battery would be on for start and will pick up the FADEC demand during
>start. As I understand it, each of the two channels of the FADEC are
>connected to their own power source and run off of that source. In our
>case, it is the two batteries. If one source goes below about 10.5 v, as I
>recollect Jabe Luttrell's (Aerosance) words, the unit switches to the
>higher voltage source. This looks pretty standard design to me.
sounds like a plan . . .
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Diode source and ANL location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:00 AM 7/8/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > >Hi Bob,
> > >You specified the use of a 1N4005 diode on the solenoid terminals of an
> > >S704-1 relay. Do you have a source for this diode?
> >
> > Radio Shack
>
>I think Bob likes to see people squirm on this one because he is probably
>annoyed at being asked this same question (among others) about 8x a month.
>I was the annoying one just a few weeks ago, don't feel bad. 8-)
>
>But Bob, a part #, a part #!
>
>Radio Shack #276-1141 (pack of 2)
Gee, I thought the Radio Shack guys had all the answers . . .
they should be able to sell you a 1N400x diode. BTW, the
"X" implies ANY digit . . . there are a range of parts in
this class ALL of which are suited to the task.
Bob . . .
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Led Position Lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD <John.Livingston@wpafb.af.mil>
> Boy, it's been awhile since I've seen this much hand waving. How about a little
>mathematical rigor. If you are going to question someone's work fine, but
>do it well.
>John
and
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Loram <johnl@loram.org>
>Perhaps not quite as expensive or tricky as in the past.
> http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
My comment....If something seems too good to be true....
The (simplified) mathematical rigor is posted on my website if you want to see
it:
http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledpositionlights.htm
Even if you want to buy the ones Bill offers, you need to read and understand the
argument.
Don't be in a rush for these. Many many people have built similar position lights,
and I am a big believer in these devices. And yes you CAN build LED position
lights even now, just check my website. But killacycle's LED position lights
are not quite there. I have asked Bill Dube' to send me some details and I
will figure out how close this is to the FAA requirements (I bet he's wrong by
a factor of 4X). I will post this on the aeroelectric website.
My comment that when buying LEDs you FIRST buy the ANGLE, then you buy the brightness....this
is the whole trick and it won't work the other way. Unless Bill
Dube' got the LEDs off the Roswell saucer, his setup will fall way short of what
is necessary. And I know he didn't because I GOT THE LEDS OFF THE ROSWELL
SAUCER, and that miracle cell-phone antenna stick-on thingy.
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
"In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there
is."
-Yogi Berra
Message 20
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| Subject: | Radio transmission probelm....help! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:28 AM 7/8/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
><james@nextupventures.com>
>
>Might want to check the connections to the antenna.
>
>If you could rig up another temporary antenna, you might be able to note
>whether there is a difference.
>
>James
Good suggestion. From what he described, this seems
a likely source of problem. If a substitute antenna
is not available on the airplane, take a 20' or so
hunk of RG58 and carefully cut away 50" of outer jacket.
Pull center conductor through the braid at the end
of outer jacket like so:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/shldwire/shldwire.html
Exposed center conductor and shield can be spread out
and taped to the end of a 2x4 about 6-8 feet long so that
end of center conductor is even with end of board. Coax
feedline comes off 25" from end of board and exposed shield
continues on for an additional 25"
Fabricate some means for holding 2x4 upright (bucket full
of sand/gravel works good). Put connector on free end of
coax to mate with transceiver.
Set antenna on ground as far as far from aircraft as
your scrap of coax will allow and attach connector
to your transceiver.
See if the symptoms go away or change in any way
you can detect.
Use handheld radio and/or someone setting in another
airplane to evaluate your transmitted signal.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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| Subject: | Multimeter test adaptor |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Hi Bob,
I need help in understanding how to make up the test adaptor, page Z6.
Do you crimp or solder the "banana plugs" to one end of the 1573 plug and plug
the other end into the 1576 receptacle, allowing you to clamp a multimeter to
the "banana plugs".
Is there a picture somewhere of this?
Would radio shack know what to sell me if I ask for "banana plugs"?
It's probably there but I can't find in your book the purpose of the 5A C.B. in
the alt. field wire.
Also, does it need to be in plain view so you can see immediately if it trips or
can I put it out of the way but still accessable by touch in-flight?
And if I haven't strained your patience too far, the Radio Shack P/N for the 1N4005
diode. One responded with 276-1141 and another with 276-1105
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Diode source and ANL location) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
Bob,
I saw the comment about being asked questions over and over and it struck me
that it's probably true, especially because I've seen various messages asking
questions to which I've wanted to know the answers, and which aren't answered
directly in the Aeroelectric Connection book.
Is there some way that we can feed back to you suggestions for things (often
absurdly simple) to include in the next edition?
Two examples that spring to mind are: this question below about contactor /
relay diodes; and the recent question about where to join multiple wires on
the same circuit (the actual question was about posn lights).
Cheers.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Diode source and ANL location
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 11:00 AM 7/8/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> > > >Hi Bob,
> > > >You specified the use of a 1N4005 diode on the solenoid terminals of
an
> > > >S704-1 relay. Do you have a source for this diode?
> > >
> > > Radio Shack
> >
> >I think Bob likes to see people squirm on this one because he is probably
> >annoyed at being asked this same question (among others) about 8x a month.
> >I was the annoying one just a few weeks ago, don't feel bad. 8-)
> >
> >But Bob, a part #, a part #!
> >
> >Radio Shack #276-1141 (pack of 2)
>
> Gee, I thought the Radio Shack guys had all the answers . . .
> they should be able to sell you a 1N400x diode. BTW, the
> "X" implies ANY digit . . . there are a range of parts in
> this class ALL of which are suited to the task.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | LED position lights...Alternative? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@bellsouth.net>
> I'm certainly no expert, but I've been interested in alternative
> lighting for a long time. I wonder if the small "cold cathode"
> fluorescents that are proliferating in automotive applications would be
> suitable. They are certainly cheap, efficient, apparently vibration
> resistant, and available in multiple colors. They don't have the
> "angle" problem of LEDs, but there may be other issues I'm not aware
> of.
>
> see:
>
> http://www.elwirecheap.com/neonwircarki.html
>
>
> JFF
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Bob and others who have recently given suggestions on converting .dwg files:
Either export as .wmf & use IRFANview freeware or print to Adobe (or free
trial version of FinePoint's "pdfFactory") which converts whatever you print
in Autocad or Intellicad to .pdf.
The programs are functioning, but NOT giving USEABLE results - details when
"zoom" in on the pdf or wmf conversions.
- In ALL cases (exporting to .wmf and viewing with irfanview, exporting
to .bmp and viewing with "paint", and printing direct from Intellicad to
pdfFactory and saving as .pdf), I get just the level of detail that is
showing in Intellicad when I click "print"
1) If entire schematic (drawing) is showing on screen - but unreadable
until I zoom in - then the wmf and pdf files, when "zoom", are not legible -
no detail.
2) If zoom in in Intellicad so details (wire gauge, pin numbers, etc)
are readable, then "select all" and "print", I only get in the wmf and pdf
files what was showing in the computer screen in Intellicad (a tiny part of
the schematic, not the whole enchilada) The detail is the same as what I
saw in Intellicad, while zoomed in.
At this point, unless someone can point out a basic error in my
"print"keystrokes in Intellicad/Autocad, then I only see one solution for
letting others view my .dwg files for peer review , for sharing ideas, and
for documenting my work on a website:
- That solution is to provide a note to click a nearby link to a
download free CAD viewer that will allow viewing .dwg files, with full zoom
and pan cabability.
I downloaded Bob's CD ( AEC8_0.zip ) and scanned down to the bottom where it
listed the 3 CAD programs (Autocad Lite, Intellicad, and Turbocad 2d Lt.
- Turbocad was the only one of the 3 that was contained in a single
file to download and install, so that would appear to be the preferred
"simplest" way of giving someone access to a free .dwg viewer.
So, if that is to be "our" only method of sharing .dwg files (with entire
schematic/drawing available for pan and zoom) that will show details and not
be "blurred"/unreadable at high magnification, then I need to study how to
create the link to "which" site for downloading Turbocad;
- If I can upload the zipped Turbocad file to my website (assuming it
won't exceed my allowance of disk space on my ISP's server), then it is easy
to do the links.
- If, as I suspect, this will exceed my quota of space, then I'd need a
link to some website for the download.
I just called my ISP - said "No problem, not enforcing the 5mb quota - go
ahead and put it (Turbocad zip file) up."
Unless someone can help me with a simpler way, that is what I will pursue.
- Bob, the version of TC Lite is Feb 2002 - is there likely to be a
later version? Any tips on this?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Builder documentation on the Web-summary
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 10:47 PM 5/7/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
> ><dcarter@datarecall.net>
> >
> >I received 13 excellent, helpful replies to my request for "how to create
> >drawings, sketches, & tables viewable on a web site". Thank you all.
> >
> >Here's a summary of what I learned:
> >
> >1. Drawings made by CAD programs (Autocad, Intellicad-an Autocad "full
> >features clone" (I have Airplane PDQ which has full Intellicad embedded):
> > a. File, Export to File, in the Save As box navigate to the desired
> > folder, use or change the file name, then go to File Type & scroll down
> > to & select .bmp; that all disappears and you are back in Intellicad
with
> > the "Selection Menu" box popped up - click "select all" then press
> > "Enter" (a non-intuitive response to a command line question) and in a
> > short moment the conversion is completed.
> > b. Then use Paint (MSPAINT) to open the file & immediately Save As a
> > .jpg Everyone with Windows has Microsoft's "Paint" for this
.bmp
> > to .jpg conversion. And everyone with Windows has Kodak's "Imaging"
> > program that views .jpgs, plus .jpg files/images are imbedded directly
> > into aweb page and thus viewable by a browser.
> > (interesting side note: My "Imaging" pgm won't let me save
anything
> > as .jpg . . . weird.)
> >
> >2. Non-cad drawings and sketches (fuel system, simple electrical
> >schematics or wire diagrams, etc)
> > a. Hand draw and color sketches and simply scan them as .jpg files
> > to insert into web page; or,
> > b. Use "Paint" (MSPAINT.EXE in Programs, Accessories) for
Sketches -
> > c. Excel has a "drawing" mode with lots of features.
> > - Another lister several months ago shared how he used Excel to
> > "draw" a very neat electrical schematic.
> > - My impression is that one would be able to "draw" a neater,
> > more detailed drawing than using PAINT - maybe easier, too, since Exel
> > has more drawing features than the rudimentary lines, rectangle, and
> > "free hand with a mouse" of PAINT.
>
> Better yet. Get Adobe Acrobat. It's for sale all over ebay and other
> places on the 'net. Acrobat fools your computer into thinking that
> it is a printer . . . you can "print" to Acrobat and instead of
getting
> paper out of a printer, you get .pdf file on your hard drive.
>
> <snip>
>
> >Other tips (summary listing):
> >1. Eric M. Jones: If you have an interest in CAD, please see
> >http://www.tenlinks.com/CAD/products/free/cad.htm. This is a repository
of
> >all things in free cad, and add-ons too
> >
> >2. Chris Good: Powerpoint has an "export to html" function that creates
> >the pages on the web site.
> >
> >3. Ernest Christley: Try "The Gimp". There is a version for Windo[ws]
> ><snip> It's a Photoshop wannabe, that will cost you exactly $0. You'll
be
> >able to work on the JPG files and do lots of other neat things if you'll
> >just spend a few hours with the included documentation. As a bonus, the
> >JPG files it produces tend to be about 1/4th the size of what my digital
> >camera program produces.
> >
> >4. Dale Smith: "jpeg optimizer" will trim your photos' file size
> >literally to any size you like, all the while showing you in a window
what
> >the downsized picture file looks like! ... it's shareware located for
> >download on CNet at: http://download.com.com/3000-2192-9623164.html
> > - File sizes a third of the original show with almost negligible
> > differences. If it does degrade, just kick it up a few percent. You
> > don't need to re-size most pics down to enjoy the benefits, but cropping
> > out the unneeded always helps keep the filesize in check.
> >
> >5. Rob Housman: Use "FinePrint" to save the file in Adobe Acrobat's pdf
> >format. Go to www.fineprint.com and download the free version of that
> >program. [ This sounds like one to get familiar with. ]
> >
> >6. Dan Checkoway: There are plenty of forums and self-teach web sites
> >out there for web development. See http://www.w3schools.com, for
> >example. [ I went to this and will use it as my primary learning tool
for
> >web stuff.]
> >
> >7. Joshua Siler: Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator, with a tablet input
> >device, are the
> >best ways to do this [sketches]. However they are quite expensive.
> > - Try Paint Shop Pro 8.0 - you can find it at
http://www.download.com
> > . It will let you create an
> >image, and then you can save it as a file format that windows can read.
>
> Our CD Rom has three Autocad compatible drafting programs on
> it. You can download from the website at
> http://216.55.140.222/CD/AEC8_0.zip
> or purchase at http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.htm
>
> Acrobat reader is free to everybody. Your published works will be
easily
> read and printed. I often publish .jpg photos to .pdf files just to
insure
> the manner in which they are displayed and printed. The REALLY neat
thing
> about going the Adobe route is that Acrobat allows you to edit
multiple
> .pdf files together. For example,
> http://216.55.140.222/temp/Audio_Prelim.pdf
> contains pages of data that were generated on three different
applications:
> Autocad.dwg, camera.jpg, and ECB layout.jpg. I could easily have
included
> pages of word processor text and maybe even pages from a .pdf file
> generated
> by another source. Very, VERY powerful and easy on your readers.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Builder documentation on the Web-summary |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
David -
.DWG files are rooted deeply in AutoCAD. Furthermore, they vary by the
versions of AutoCAD that AutoDesk has published thru the years. Most of the
CAD programs that put out ".dwg" files put out either marginal files, in
and of themselves, or are predicated on a specific version of AutoCAD - or
a combination of both. Same is true, but to a lesser extent of Adobe
Acrobat files. Both companies endeavour to allow you to publish for a
specific version of their program and will read files published in their
previous versions. Bottom line: translating in other programs is at best a
crap-shoot and it may or may not work at any time. Also, files like .bmp
and .jpg are bitmapped (raster) files and those from Illustrator, CorelDraw
and AutoCAD are vector based files (mathematically calculated). CAD
programs use some variety of a vector-based format. Using bitmapped files
in a vector based program is not the easiest of things to do - unless you
are willing to spend a lot of time tracing the bitmaps to get them into
vector format. Or getting them to print well as part of a CAD plot is
problematic.
Finally, if one wishes to send a "cad" drawing to someone else, I would
recommend that they save it as a .DXF file. That format has the best chance
of being read in other CAD programs, including AutoCAD (all verions),
because it is based on a commonly accepted standard in the industry. I can
pull in a .pdf file to CorelDraw and export as a .dxf file. AutoCAD 2000 LT
can pull this in and read just about everything. However, a lot of the
nuances and "things" that were in the original CAD file may not have made
it into the .pdf file that I started with, or get included in the .dxf
file. All of this works fairly well, but if I upgrade to the next version
of CorelDraw, it may lock up the machine: another crap-shoot. Thus, when
Bob publishes a .pdf file, which is great for most applications, I ask him
for a .dwg file because I want to incorporate it into an existing file or
modify it a bit for our application in the airplane.
.WMF has always been problematical to work with because it is a Microsoft
vector-based invention . Same is true for .BMP as Microsoft's entry to the
bit-mapped race.
Hope this helps a bit.
John
Message 26
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| Subject: | Audio Isolation Amp/Mixer Project |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:17 AM 7/8/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
>
>Hi All,
>
>Does anyone have an update on the status of the
>audio isolator that Bob was working on?
>
>(Inquiring minds and all that)
The hardware is all done and tested. I'm working
on the companion article that will describe how
it's assembled and set up.
The complete data package will be published shortly.
In the mean time, those with some knowledge and
skills to proceed on preliminary data can go now to:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
I have a few bare etched circuit boards at $20 each.
The assembled and tested prototype is available for
$100 first come first served. You can also download
the ECB artwork if you choose to order boards yourself
from Express PCB. Artwork processing and order software
is available free from:
http://www.expresspcb.com/
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 27
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| Subject: | Builder documentation on the Web-summary |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Great explanation of CAD files and compatibility, John. Just one thing to
add, if my memory still works right: DXF was Autodesk's (AutoCAD) Drawing
Exchange Format, designed for transferring drawing files to and from
non-AutoCad systems.
Terry
Do not archive
Message 28
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Don Honabach" <don@pcperfect.com>
Hey Gang,
I finally got my new AMP ProCrimper II today and did some test crimps.
Wow - what a crimper (never thought I'd say that - at least not in
public).
The appearance of the crimp is beautiful (again, never thought I'd say
that as well). The crimp is also strong enough that I literally can't
pull the wire out. If I try, the connector/terminal deforms and then I
stop. When using my Ideal Ratchet Crimper or the normal hand held
crimps, I was able to get a decent crimp but with enough force (required
a very hefty tug) I could eventually pull the wire out. Maybe the other
crimpers required different dies or better technique...
In short, while the AMP Crimper may be overkill, I'm extremely happy
that I got it and ultimately the piece of mind was well worth the ~$120
for the crimper kit (came with crimper, die, and an assorted of PIDG
connectors). With that said, I'll now be trying to crimp everything -
it's wonderful what a good tool will do for a major change in attitude.
Before I was trying to avoid crimping connections, now I can't imagine
not crimping a connection.
Regards,
Don Honabach
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