Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:44 AM - Garmin GPS 400 harness advice (Gilles.Thesee)
2. 06:11 AM - OV protection on internally regulated alternators (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 08:49 AM - Re: Alternator wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 09:50 AM - Molex Pins (frequent flyer)
5. 10:03 AM - Re: Routing cables around back of panel (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 11:58 AM - Re: Common questions (rwilliams)
7. 02:45 PM - Re: Common questions (Phil Birkelbach)
8. 02:50 PM - Master Bus Wire Size (Phil Birkelbach)
9. 04:45 PM - Flap motor wireing (ted scott)
10. 06:07 PM - Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice (Gilles.Thesee)
11. 06:25 PM - Broken S708-1 (Dan Checkoway)
12. 06:37 PM - Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice (Charlie & Tupper England)
13. 07:17 PM - Re: Broken S708-1 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 07:30 PM - Re: Master Bus Wire Size (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 07:31 PM - Re: Broken S708-1 (drew.schumann@us.army.mil)
16. 07:38 PM - Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice (Alex Peterson)
17. 07:43 PM - Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 07:48 PM - Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice (Gilles.Thesee)
19. 07:54 PM - Re: Flap motor wireing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 07:59 PM - Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice (Gilles.Thesee)
21. 08:04 PM - Re: Flap motor wireing (ted scott)
22. 08:04 PM - Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice (Gilles.Thesee)
23. 08:21 PM - Re: Broken S708-1 (Dan Checkoway)
24. 08:35 PM - Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice (Richard E. Tasker)
25. 10:01 PM - Re: Broken S708-1 (Werner Schneider)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Hi Bob and all,
Our GPS 400 arrived last week, and the rack is now installed in the
airplane.
My intention was to fabricate the connecting harness.
But the the high density 78 pin connector included in the box has tiny
machined gold contats, and I am concerned my 4-indent B&C crimper might not
do.
Here is my question :
What do I need to corrrectly hook up and insert those pins at a reasonable
price ?
Or do I have to order a precrimped harness ?
I believe the connector is the same as the GNS 430.
Thanks for your advice,
Gilles
Message 2
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| Subject: | OV protection on internally regulated alternators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:00 PM 7/14/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>July 14, 2003
>
>Dear MR. Muckolls,
>My name is John Chandler and I need information and advice on OV >protection.
I'm building an RV 7 with an IO 360. I have a Lightweight >Nippo Alternator my
engine builder supplied. It has a built in regulator >that I would not like to
remove. This alternator is intended to be used >on an aircraft. I have your
book, and after reading about OV protection, >I'm confused. It looks like on OV,
the field gets pull to ground >tripping the field circuit breaker. If that
is the case, why do you also >open up the B + line? Is that not redundant?
The small wire going into the rear of an alternator with
built in regulator is NOT the field supply wire. It's a
CONTROL wire to an integrated circuit within the regulator.
Further, on some alternators, this control wire is just to
DELAY onset of alternator activity until after the engine
is started and the electronic fuel control system thinks it's
okay to add load to the engine . . . once turned ON by this
wire, it cannot be turned OFF except by stopping the engine.
Last, there are failure modes within such alternators that
completely bypass the control function to produce a runaway
condition capable of 100 volts or more output from your
alternator.
> If just pulling the field >to ground is all I need, what do you recommend, and
do you sale the OV >protector?
I designed the OVM-14 crowbar ov protection module
and used to sell it from my website. The parts and
materials business exploded on me and became a third
full time job. I transferred that activity to
B&C at http://www.bandc.biz a few years ago. You
can get the OVM-14 ov module and the companion
S701-1 continuous duty contactor from them if you
so choose. There is also an article on my website
at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/crowbar.pdf
that explains how to do your own.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>Comments/Questions: Bob, I purchased an overvoltage control a ouple years
>ago. Been layed up and am now getting plane going again. have misplaced
>the info on kit, looked on website, couldn't find. It worked before( I
>disassembled to paint) but I have no wiring diagram to find out how to run
>proper wires to 3 pronged receptacle on reear of alternator. I have the
>batt wire ok but I have another wire with jumper to hook to two terminals.
Which alternator do you have?
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com>
Hi, I hav3e never posted to this very valuable list
but I lurk a lot and I need 18 of the Molex pins for
my AT-50A Narco transponder. Maybe we could get enough
people that need pins to get an order together.
Jack
__________________________________
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Routing cables around back of panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:45 AM 7/14/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford"
><nkilford@etravel.org>
>
>Hi guys,
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions for routing bundles of cables and tubes
>around the back of the instrument panel? I'm using cable ties and screw-down
>bases for routing around the inside of the firewall, where the fuseholders
>are, but I'm trying to avoid screws going through the panel.
>
>I can weld some lugs on the blind side of the panel to support cables, but
>I'd be interested to know if there's a handy way of doing it.
>
>While I'm on the subject, what about the routing of cables from behind
>instruments, radios, etc. It's only a foot or so, but what's a good way to
>secure cables from the back of a radio, say, down to the panel? It seems as
>though I should add some structure to support all the back-of-panel wiring
>and tubing.
There are a number of products offered as self-sticking
mounting points for tie wraps. Depending on who's adhesive
is supplied and how old it is, the self sticking
feature can have a problematical service life.
However, if you purchase the screw-mount versions -OR-
strip the adhesive pad off the back, you can mount these
to a clean aluminum surface with a good epoxy like
JB Weld. If you need a standoff mounting that does not
penetrate the panel, consider mounting a threaded spacer
on a 1" square piece of aluminum using flathead screw, then
bond aluminum base to back side of instrument panel.
I've also used JB Weld to attach aluminum L-brackets to
the back of a panel to provide mounting surface for
wire bundle clamps, small accessory items, etc.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Common questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rwilliams" <rwilliams@C1ama.net>
A Nuckoll's online FAQ is a superb idea!
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Common questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
There is a FAQ. It is called 'The AeroElectric Connection' and it can be
purchased from Bob himself or the Builders Bookstore.
www.aeroelectric.com
http://www.buildersbooks.com/aeroelectric_connection.htm?38,57
I do electrical designs for a living and I learned a LOT from this book. If
you are planning to wire your own airplane then you MUST buy this book. At
$31 it is a wash compared to all the grief that you will save.
Besides, Bob spends a bunch of time on this list answering our questions and
asks nothing in return. Go buy the book.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "rwilliams" <rwilliams@C1ama.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Common questions
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rwilliams" <rwilliams@C1ama.net>
>
> A Nuckoll's online FAQ is a superb idea!
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Master Bus Wire Size |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
Howdy all,
I have modified the 'All Electric Airplane on a Budget' distribution diagram
to include the OV protection on the internally regulated alternator. I have
two questions...
One does anybody see anything that will cause me any grief? and two, I
noticed that I am missing the wire size between the main bus and the battery
contactor. I considered 4AWG just to be on the safe side but I was
wondering if there was any need to go with wire that big or if I could get
away with something smaller. I am trying to build the system around a 40A
alternator but with the capability to go to 60A in the future if I decide
to.
Here is a *.pdf of the system so far...
http://www.myrv7.com/drawings/727WB-001.pdf
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Flap motor wireing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "ted scott" <teds532@bellsouth.net>
I am installing a flap actuator like the one sold by Aircraft Spruce part #05-66223
and need a wiring diagram and some information on how to get the three positions
on this unit. I only have a up and down limit now.Thank you,Ted.Kis Cruiser
builder. teds532@bellsouth.net
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
----- Message d'origine -----
De : "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Envoy : mardi 15 juillet 2003 14:42
Objet : AeroElectric-List: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee"
<Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
> Hi Bob and all,
>
> Our GPS 400 arrived last week, and the rack is now installed in the
> airplane.
> My intention was to fabricate the connecting harness.
> But the the high density 78 pin connector included in the box has tiny
> machined gold contats, and I am concerned my 4-indent B&C crimper might
not
> do.
>
> Here is my question :
> What do I need to corrrectly hook up and insert those pins at a reasonable
> price ?
> Or do I have to order a precrimped harness ?
> I believe the connector is the same as the GNS 430.
>
> Thanks for your advice,
>
> Gilles
>
After pondering on the above...Would it be a heresy to try and solder those
minute gold contacts onto the wires ?
So all I'll need is and insertion tool.
Any opinions ?
Thanks,
Gilles
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I bought an S708-1 sub-miniature push button from B&C about a month ago with
the intent of using it as a copilot's PTT switch. Today I finally wired it
up, but when I went to install it the thing broke!
I was tightening the nut with a 7/32" socket between my FINGERS, not even
using a wrench, just twisting the socket between my thumb and index finger.
The barrel just snapped as soon as it got tight. I couldn't possibly have
put that much torque on the thing.
The threaded barrel literally split on a thread...it didn't separate,
though, just kind of split about 3/4 of the way around. I couldn't get the
nut off, so I had to cut it out of there with a pair of wire cutters.
I was surprised at how cheap this switch ended up being. I always think of
B&C as selling top-quality stuff!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Gilles.Thesee wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>
>----- Message d'origine -----
>De : "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
> : <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Envoy : mardi 15 juillet 2003 14:42
>Objet : AeroElectric-List: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice
>
>
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee"
>>
>>
><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>
>>Hi Bob and all,
>>
>>Our GPS 400 arrived last week, and the rack is now installed in the
>>airplane.
>>My intention was to fabricate the connecting harness.
>>But the the high density 78 pin connector included in the box has tiny
>>machined gold contats, and I am concerned my 4-indent B&C crimper might
>>
>>
>not
>
>
>>do.
>>
>>Here is my question :
>>What do I need to corrrectly hook up and insert those pins at a reasonable
>>price ?
>>Or do I have to order a precrimped harness ?
>>I believe the connector is the same as the GNS 430.
>>
>>Thanks for your advice,
>>
>>Gilles
>>
>>
>>
>
>After pondering on the above...Would it be a heresy to try and solder those
>minute gold contacts onto the wires ?
>So all I'll need is and insertion tool.
>Any opinions ?
>
>Thanks,
>Gilles
>
As long as you use proper technique, solder & equipment, it will work
just fine.
Charlie
Electronics Tech in another life
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Broken S708-1 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:23 PM 7/15/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I bought an S708-1 sub-miniature push button from B&C about a month ago with
>the intent of using it as a copilot's PTT switch. Today I finally wired it
>up, but when I went to install it the thing broke!
>
>I was tightening the nut with a 7/32" socket between my FINGERS, not even
>using a wrench, just twisting the socket between my thumb and index finger.
>The barrel just snapped as soon as it got tight. I couldn't possibly have
>put that much torque on the thing.
>
>The threaded barrel literally split on a thread...it didn't separate,
>though, just kind of split about 3/4 of the way around. I couldn't get the
>nut off, so I had to cut it out of there with a pair of wire cutters.
>
>I was surprised at how cheap this switch ended up being. I always think of
>B&C as selling top-quality stuff!
Unless they've changed suppliers from what I originally
stocked for this part, the manufacturer was Grayhill . . .
an old line, respected supplier to the industry.
See:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/39_Series.pdf
I sold several dozen of those switches before B&C took over
the activity and I've personally used perhaps a dozen more
in personal projects over the past 20+ years. Unless
we can find some evidence to the contrary, I'd like to
believe your experience was an isolated incident borne
of a batch QA problem.
I note from the spec sheet cited above that rated installation
torque for the part is 2-in lbs, not really hefty but
it is, after all, a rather petite part. I would expect
the mounting bushing to be good for at least twice that
before failure.
Given the difficulty you had removing the carcass,
there would probably be no value in having you send
me the failed part. I'll ask B&C to pull a couple from
stock and send them down to me for examination and
testing. I'm certain they'll be pleased to replace
the one that broke for you . . . but let's wait
until we gage the condition of other switches in stock.
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Master Bus Wire Size |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:50 PM 7/15/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach"
><phil@petrasoft.net>
>
>Howdy all,
>
>I have modified the 'All Electric Airplane on a Budget' distribution diagram
>to include the OV protection on the internally regulated alternator. I have
>two questions...
>
>One does anybody see anything that will cause me any grief? and two, I
>noticed that I am missing the wire size between the main bus and the battery
>contactor. I considered 4AWG just to be on the safe side but I was
>wondering if there was any need to go with wire that big or if I could get
>away with something smaller. I am trying to build the system around a 40A
>alternator but with the capability to go to 60A in the future if I decide
>to.
The main bus feeder is sized for alternator load. Since the
rest of the airplane's fat wires are 4AWG, you've probably
already got enough left over to do the main bus feed with
4AWG too . . . which would be fine.
To drive a 60A bus, you can downsize to 6AWG. 8AWG would
be fine for a 40A system . . . unless you're going to add
electric toe warmers, I cannot imagine that you'd ever need
a 60A machine.
The drawing looks fine.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Broken S708-1 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: drew.schumann@us.army.mil
I'm glad I'm not the only one. Same thing on a Piper Archer a few months ago,
for me!
Drew
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Broken S708-1
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> <dan@rvproject.com>
> I bought an S708-1 sub-miniature push button from B&C about a
> month ago with
> the intent of using it as a copilot's PTT switch. Today I finally
> wired it
> up, but when I went to install it the thing broke!
>
> I was tightening the nut with a 7/32" socket between my FINGERS,
> not even
> using a wrench, just twisting the socket between my thumb and
> index finger.
> The barrel just snapped as soon as it got tight. I couldn't
> possibly have
> put that much torque on the thing.
>
> The threaded barrel literally split on a thread...it didn't separate,
> though, just kind of split about 3/4 of the way around. I
> couldn't get the
> nut off, so I had to cut it out of there with a pair of wire cutters.
>
> I was surprised at how cheap this switch ended up being. I always
> think of
> B&C as selling top-quality stuff!
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> >After pondering on the above...Would it be a heresy to try
> and solder
> >those minute gold contacts onto the wires ? So all I'll need is and
> >insertion tool. Any opinions ?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Gilles
> >
> As long as you use proper technique, solder & equipment, it will work
> just fine.
>
> Charlie
> Electronics Tech in another life
Don't forget to rinse off the rosin flux with lacquer thinner after
soldering. That stuff is designed to etch the metal at solder
temperatures, and it will continue to corrode things forever, albeit
slowly, if you don't remove it. Get a temperature controlled soldering
iron and very fine rosin core solder, practice a little and you'll be
fine. Also get an eye loupe or some sort of magnifier for inspection.
As far as an insertion tool, none is needed. Just need it to remove a
pin from the connector.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 323 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:42 PM 7/15/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee"
><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>Hi Bob and all,
>
>Our GPS 400 arrived last week, and the rack is now installed in the
>airplane.
>My intention was to fabricate the connecting harness.
>But the the high density 78 pin connector included in the box has tiny
>machined gold contats, and I am concerned my 4-indent B&C crimper might not
>do.
I've used the B&C crimper on the hi-density d-sub pins
with great success.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
----- Message d'origine -----
De : "Charlie & Tupper England" <cengland@netdoor.com>
: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Envoy : mercredi 16 juillet 2003 03:37
Objet : Re: AeroElectric-List: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice
> >
> >After pondering on the above...Would it be a heresy to try and solder
those
> >minute gold contacts onto the wires ?
> >So all I'll need is and insertion tool.
> >Any opinions ?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Gilles
> >
> As long as you use proper technique, solder & equipment, it will work
> just fine.
>
> Charlie
> Electronics Tech in another life
Charlie,
Thank you for responding.
Am I right in supposing that proper technique means pre tinning the parts,
using not too much solder, etc..?
Thanks,
Gilles
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Flap motor wireing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:29 PM 7/15/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "ted scott" <teds532@bellsouth.net>
>
>I am installing a flap actuator like the one sold by Aircraft Spruce part
>#05-66223 and need a wiring diagram and some information on how to get the
>three positions on this unit. I only have a up and down limit now.Thank
>you,Ted.Kis Cruiser builder. teds532@bellsouth.net
I presume you're interested in having the
flaps automatically drive to and stop at
some position intermediate to full up or
full down. Be aware that such systems may
have failure modes that can cause unexpected,
uncommanded flap motion.
Do you plan to have a flap position
indicator? Unless the airplane has
VERY powerful flaps like the early
"barn door" flaps on high wing Cessnas,
I think you'll find that you can control
flaps with the simple spring-loaded, center
off switch without even looking at the
flap indicator.
Configuring automatic controls with
safeguards adds a degree of complexity
that may not be good value in terms
of overall flap system reliability.
Is this feature a matter of consensus
among Kis owners as to need or just a neat,
gee-whiz?
Kirk Hammersmith and I tossed around the
notion of a similar system for Lancairs
at the factory . . . after some thought,
I suggested that we not mess up what
has proven to be a perfectly good working
system.
Bob . . .
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
----- Message d'origine -----
De : "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Envoy : mercredi 16 juillet 2003 04:40
Objet : Re: AeroElectric-List: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice
> >But the the high density 78 pin connector included in the box has tiny
> >machined gold contats, and I am concerned my 4-indent B&C crimper might
not
> >do.
>
> I've used the B&C crimper on the hi-density d-sub pins
> with great success.
>
> Bob . . .
Bob,
Good news.
Thanks a lot,
Gilles
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Flap motor wireing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "ted scott" <teds532@bellsouth.net>
Thanks ,Bob. Do you have a book on electrical systems that I could buy.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Flap motor wireing
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 06:29 PM 7/15/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "ted scott"
<teds532@bellsouth.net>
> >
> >I am installing a flap actuator like the one sold by Aircraft Spruce part
> >#05-66223 and need a wiring diagram and some information on how to get
the
> >three positions on this unit. I only have a up and down limit now.Thank
> >you,Ted.Kis Cruiser builder. teds532@bellsouth.net
>
> I presume you're interested in having the
> flaps automatically drive to and stop at
> some position intermediate to full up or
> full down. Be aware that such systems may
> have failure modes that can cause unexpected,
> uncommanded flap motion.
>
> Do you plan to have a flap position
> indicator? Unless the airplane has
> VERY powerful flaps like the early
> "barn door" flaps on high wing Cessnas,
> I think you'll find that you can control
> flaps with the simple spring-loaded, center
> off switch without even looking at the
> flap indicator.
>
> Configuring automatic controls with
> safeguards adds a degree of complexity
> that may not be good value in terms
> of overall flap system reliability.
>
> Is this feature a matter of consensus
> among Kis owners as to need or just a neat,
> gee-whiz?
>
> Kirk Hammersmith and I tossed around the
> notion of a similar system for Lancairs
> at the factory . . . after some thought,
> I suggested that we not mess up what
> has proven to be a perfectly good working
> system.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Alex,
This is a lot of info.
> Don't forget to rinse off the rosin flux with lacquer thinner after
> soldering. That stuff is designed to etch the metal at solder
> temperatures, and it will continue to corrode things forever, albeit
> slowly, if you don't remove it.
Hey, I didn't know that.
Get a temperature controlled soldering
> iron and very fine rosin core solder, practice a little and you'll be
> fine. Also get an eye loupe or some sort of magnifier for inspection.
>
You're right, I'll order one tomorrow.
> As far as an insertion tool, none is needed. Just need it to remove a
> pin from the connector.
>
Great !
Thank you,
Gilles
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Broken S708-1 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> testing. I'm certain they'll be pleased to replace
> the one that broke for you . . . but let's wait
> until we gage the condition of other switches in stock.
It's really no big deal other than minor disappointment. I swung down to
Radio Crack and bought their equivalent sub-mini switch (blister pack of 2
for $2.79). I'm sure it's an inferior switch, but it has a beefier barrel.
Already installed. 8-)
I just wanted to raise the issue in case it's something I did -- sounds like
I over-torqued it, even with my fingers. But even so, the switch doesn't
come with a lock washer, nor did the barrel seem long enough to get a lock
washer on there. Radio Smack's version does come with a lock washer (and a
longer, fatter barrel).
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS 400 harness advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Gilles.Thesee wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>Don't forget to rinse off the rosin flux with lacquer thinner after
>soldering. That stuff is designed to etch the metal at solder
>temperatures, and it will continue to corrode things forever, albeit
>slowly, if you don't remove it.
>
>
>
>Hey, I didn't know that.
>
>
On the other hand, you can buy so called "no clean" flux solder and you
do not need to clean it or water soluble flux and use water to clean it.
Dick Tasker
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Broken S708-1 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
I'm using four of them without any problems?!
----- Original Message -----
From: <drew.schumann@us.army.mil>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Broken S708-1
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: drew.schumann@us.army.mil
>
> I'm glad I'm not the only one. Same thing on a Piper Archer a few months
ago, for me!
>
> Drew
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com>
> Date: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 5:23 am
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Broken S708-1
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> > <dan@rvproject.com>
> > I bought an S708-1 sub-miniature push button from B&C about a
> > month ago with
> > the intent of using it as a copilot's PTT switch. Today I finally
> > wired it
> > up, but when I went to install it the thing broke!
> >
> > I was tightening the nut with a 7/32" socket between my FINGERS,
> > not even
> > using a wrench, just twisting the socket between my thumb and
> > index finger.
> > The barrel just snapped as soon as it got tight. I couldn't
> > possibly have
> > put that much torque on the thing.
> >
> > The threaded barrel literally split on a thread...it didn't separate,
> > though, just kind of split about 3/4 of the way around. I
> > couldn't get the
> > nut off, so I had to cut it out of there with a pair of wire cutters.
> >
> > I was surprised at how cheap this switch ended up being. I always
> > think of
> > B&C as selling top-quality stuff!
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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