Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:53 AM - Infinity grip (Greg's Mail)
2. 07:01 AM - Re: Annunciator Panel on the cheap (Mark Phillips)
3. 07:58 AM - Re: Infinity grip (Bruce Gray)
4. 09:54 AM - Either fixed or variable Rehostat (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
5. 10:26 AM - Re: Either fixed or variable Rehostat (RSwanson)
6. 10:47 AM - Re: Either fixed or variable Rehostat (Jerzy Krasinski)
7. 11:01 AM - Re: Either fixed or variable Rehostat (Shannon Knoepflein)
8. 11:44 AM - Re: Infinity grip (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 12:59 PM - Re: Infinity grip (Greg's Mail)
10. 02:50 PM - Re: 4-conductor shielded wire source (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 03:17 PM - Re: Dynon encoder question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 03:18 PM - Re: Switch Spacing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 03:29 PM - Re: Panel markings (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 04:36 PM - 28 Volt radio (rondefly)
15. 05:18 PM - Re: 28 Volt radio (rondefly)
16. 05:34 PM - Narco ID-825 VOR/LOC/GS Indicator and Apollo SL-30 (Kevin Hester)
17. 06:14 PM - Re: Infinity grip (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 06:20 PM - Re: 28 Volt radio (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 06:28 PM - Re: Either fixed or variable Rehostat (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 07:47 PM - Re: wire current & Resistance for 26ga wire. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 07:49 PM - Re: Either fixed or variable Rehostat (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
22. 07:51 PM - Re: BatteryTerminalBoltCorrosion (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 07:55 PM - Re: Switch Spacing (John Schroeder)
24. 08:11 PM - Re: Lamp Assy. Need A Source.. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
25. 08:13 PM - Re: Either fixed or variable Rehostat (Shannon Knoepflein)
26. 08:28 PM - Re: Switch Spacing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
27. 08:29 PM - Re: Lamp Assy. Need A Source.. (N2321G@aol.com)
28. 09:02 PM - Re: XM Radio whine (richard@riley.net)
29. 10:52 PM - Re: Either fixed or variable Rehostat (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg's Mail" <50coperhed@jbntelco.com>
Has anyone used the engine start switch on the Infinity stick grip?
The momentary switch is rated at 8 amps, do you need a relay
to operate the Ford type of starter soleniod? Thanks
Greg Davis RV 4
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Annunciator Panel on the cheap |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Hi Nev-
I had John send me a copy of the bi-color LED lamp unit he sent you. If I
understand this thing correctly, the bi-color LED simply is two LEDs connected
backwards to each other, which you could do on the annunciator blocks as well,
using
much smaller resistor values- bear in mind that your 30mm long blocks each have
5
LEDs in them. If the intermediate LED terminals are connected in series (as shown
on my drawing with 3 in series) the appropriate resistor would normally be 220
ohms
for 20mA flow, or about 180 ohms to overdrive them to about 30mA as shown on my
drawing.
If I understand your question below about using the LEDs instead of the bulb, I'm
not sure if it would work with your regulator, as the bi-color feature appears
unique to that particular model LR3C regulator (I think!) It is important to know
how the LR3 handles the light output- it appears to be a ground path for the warning
lamp on the drawing John sent. I'm guessing that in normal operation there is
voltage applied by the regulator on pin #5 to the bi-polar LED, causing the green
one to light- if an undervoltage condition, I would guess that pin 5 is switched
to
ground, causing the red one to light.
It appears that the LR3s come in at least 3 flavors- one for incandescent lamp,
one
for single LED, and the bi-polar. Which model LR3 regulator are you using, and
do
you have a link to an AeroElectric drawing for this regulator similar to the one
John sent you? I could take a look at it and query Bob as to the correct connect
you wish to employ. Note in my drawing that I am using one of Bobs 9005-201 Low
Voltage Monitor Modules and a generic regulator instead of the LR3.
Mark
John Schroeder wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
> Nev -
>
> I'm going to pipe both of our LR3C regulator lights to the annunciator. Bob
> drew up the resistor arrangement (needs 2 per LED). I have a copy and will
> send it to you via separate email.
>
> Cheers,
>
> John
>
> On Sat, 19 Jul 2003 20:22:10 +0100, Neville Kilford <nkilford@etravel.org>
> wrote:
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford"
> > <nkilford@etravel.org>
> >
> > Mark,
> >
> > I'm definitely in on this, and I've been meaning to ask you about
> > connecting
> > to different input levels... but I just twigged that you can support both
> > those indicator feeds that are +ve and those that are -ve. Cunning.
> >
> > I've got some of the LED light bars on order. I've gone for the 30 x 7mm
> > ones.
> >
> > Here's a further question for you or Bob, or anyone else using the LR3C
> > alternator controller -- can I use your LED setup in place of the
> > B&C-supplied bulb? It looks as though the output from the LR3C could fit
> > right into the "+ve feed" part of your annunciator.
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> > Nev
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
> > To: "AeroElectric List" <AeroElectric-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Annunciator Panel on the cheap
> >
> >
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips
> >> <ripsteel@edge.net>
> >>
> >> Howdy A-list-
> >>
> >> Several of y'all expressed an interest in the annunciator panel I
> >> fabricated from the LED modules from DigiKey. Bob has graciously posted
> >> the circuit diagram and board layout in pdf format on his server at:
> >>
> >> http://216.55.140.222/temp/Annunciator_LVWM.pdf
> >>
> >> If there is enough interest, I will try to send photos of the finished
> >> unit to Matts photoshare.
> >>
> >> Mark Phillips -do not archive-
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
> --
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Check with the relay manufacturer to get the clamping amperage, should
be less than one amp. And I'd really advise you to NOT put a starter
switch on your stick grip.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Greg's Mail
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Infinity grip
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg's Mail"
<50coperhed@jbntelco.com>
Has anyone used the engine start switch on the Infinity stick grip?
The momentary switch is rated at 8 amps, do you need a relay
to operate the Ford type of starter soleniod? Thanks
Greg Davis RV 4
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
I am trying to figure out what kind of fixed resistor or preferably variable
rheostat I should use for my project.
What I am trying to control is a permanent magnet blower fan DC current 12
volt. It draws 15 amps when measured directly running without anything else
in the system.
I would like to be able to have three modes, one off course being off, LOW
drawing about 3.7 amps, medium drawing about 7.6 amps and then high drawing
full current.
If I figured correctly I would need a 44.4 ohm resistor for low, and a 91.2
ohm resistor for medium. What kind should this be ?? How many watts ?? I
assume it will get Really hot is that correct ?? Do I need to heat sink it
??
I would rather use a Knob to have total control over the fan via maybe a
rheostat ?? Is that possible ?? Again what wattage ?? Or heat sink
requirements.
And finally, Am I missing something obvious that you would suggest ? right
now the circuit would have power source, circuit breaker, switch or rheostat
and blower ??
Thanks in advance.
Jeffrey.
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RSwanson" <rswan19@comcast.net>
One thing you might do is use an auto resistor set. I'm really only
familiar with the older Chrysler cars, but they have a set of resistor
wires in the airstream and never give any problem. Might work.
R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba"
<jskiba@icosa.net>
>
> I am trying to figure out what kind of fixed resistor or preferably
variable
> rheostat I should use for my project.
>
> What I am trying to control is a permanent magnet blower fan DC current
12
> volt. It draws 15 amps when measured directly running without anything
else
> in the system.
>
> I would like to be able to have three modes, one off course being off,
LOW
> drawing about 3.7 amps, medium drawing about 7.6 amps and then high
drawing
> full current.
>
> If I figured correctly I would need a 44.4 ohm resistor for low, and a
91.2
> ohm resistor for medium. What kind should this be ?? How many watts ?? I
> assume it will get Really hot is that correct ?? Do I need to heat sink
it
> ??
>
> I would rather use a Knob to have total control over the fan via maybe a
> rheostat ?? Is that possible ?? Again what wattage ?? Or heat sink
> requirements.
>
> And finally, Am I missing something obvious that you would suggest ?
right
> now the circuit would have power source, circuit breaker, switch or
rheostat
> and blower ??
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Jeffrey.
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski@direcway.com>
Jeffrey W. Skiba wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
>
>I am trying to figure out what kind of fixed resistor or preferably variable
>rheostat I should use for my project.
>
>What I am trying to control is a permanent magnet blower fan DC current 12
>volt. It draws 15 amps when measured directly running without anything else
>in the system.
>
>I would like to be able to have three modes, one off course being off, LOW
>drawing about 3.7 amps, medium drawing about 7.6 amps and then high drawing
>full current.
>
>If I figured correctly I would need a 44.4 ohm resistor for low, and a 91.2
>ohm resistor for medium. What kind should this be ?? How many watts ?? I
>assume it will get Really hot is that correct ?? Do I need to heat sink it
>??
>
>
I do not think you got it right. 44.4 ohm resistor with no motor in
the loop would limit the current to only 270 mA, but you need several
amps there.
For the first case you are looking for ~2/3 of the 12V voltage on the
resistor i.e. ~8V, and that gives 2.16 ohm. For the second case it is a
half of 12V i.e. the resistance is ~0.790 ohm. Keep in mind the power
generated in these resistors. For the first case it is ~30W, for the
second case it is ~46W. You would have to use hefty resistors there. A
switching regulator is clearly a much better solution.
Jerzy
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann@kyol.net>
Any idea what the winding resistance of the DC motor is? Is your 15
amps a measured value, or a spec? 12v, 15A is about 180 watts. To run
it at about 4 amps, you are going to have to disapate about (15-4)/15 or
about 70% of the total watts, so about 130 watts. This is quite a bit.
A better way to do it might be to pulse width modulate it, like they do
on RC cars, just a though.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jeffrey W. Skiba
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba"
<jskiba@icosa.net>
I am trying to figure out what kind of fixed resistor or preferably
variable
rheostat I should use for my project.
What I am trying to control is a permanent magnet blower fan DC current
12
volt. It draws 15 amps when measured directly running without anything
else
in the system.
I would like to be able to have three modes, one off course being off,
LOW
drawing about 3.7 amps, medium drawing about 7.6 amps and then high
drawing
full current.
If I figured correctly I would need a 44.4 ohm resistor for low, and a
91.2
ohm resistor for medium. What kind should this be ?? How many watts ??
I
assume it will get Really hot is that correct ?? Do I need to heat sink
it
??
I would rather use a Knob to have total control over the fan via maybe a
rheostat ?? Is that possible ?? Again what wattage ?? Or heat sink
requirements.
And finally, Am I missing something obvious that you would suggest ?
right
now the circuit would have power source, circuit breaker, switch or
rheostat
and blower ??
Thanks in advance.
Jeffrey.
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:52 AM 7/20/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg's Mail"
><50coperhed@jbntelco.com>
>
>Has anyone used the engine start switch on the Infinity stick grip?
>The momentary switch is rated at 8 amps, do you need a relay
>to operate the Ford type of starter soleniod? Thanks
>Greg Davis RV 4
Any STARTER contactor worthy of the name will draw 4-10 amps
depending on it's pedigree . . . some will draw 20-30A peak
during initial engagement sequence. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
If your "Ford solenoid" looks like this contactor . . .
http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/s702-1l.jpg
then it will probably draw 3-5 amps with no particularly
large inrush like that discussed in the article.
Your 8A rated switch would probably live well driving
this style of contactor -IF- you're sure to include
the arc suppression diode across the coil. The
S704-1 non-stc contactor sold by B&C has this diode
built in. If in doubt as to the existence of a diode,
then a 1N540x series diode from Radio Shack. See:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/RS_Diodes.jpg
Banded end to "S" terminal
See:
http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/s702wire.jpg
an other end to a PIDG terminal around a mounting
bold at the base of the contactor.
Now, having decided that the switch in your stick
grip may indeed live with this application, are you
sure you REALLY want the starter button on the stick
grip? Do you plan some kind of lockout circuitry
to prevent inadvertent operation of starter after
the engine is running?
Bob . . .
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg's Mail" <50coperhed@jbntelco.com>
Bob, My starter solenoid looks like this ,from Vans
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1058730441-36-306&brow
se=electrical&product=start-sw
Do you think this would work Ok? with the diode and yes
I will definitely have a disarming switch or the circuit you
show in Z-27 of your book, I also have one electronic ign.
Thanks, Greg Davis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Infinity grip
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 08:52 AM 7/20/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg's Mail"
> ><50coperhed@jbntelco.com>
> >
> >Has anyone used the engine start switch on the Infinity stick grip?
> >The momentary switch is rated at 8 amps, do you need a relay
> >to operate the Ford type of starter soleniod? Thanks
> >Greg Davis RV 4
>
> Any STARTER contactor worthy of the name will draw 4-10 amps
> depending on it's pedigree . . . some will draw 20-30A peak
> during initial engagement sequence. See:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf
>
> If your "Ford solenoid" looks like this contactor . . .
>
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/s702-1l.jpg
>
> then it will probably draw 3-5 amps with no particularly
> large inrush like that discussed in the article.
>
> Your 8A rated switch would probably live well driving
> this style of contactor -IF- you're sure to include
> the arc suppression diode across the coil. The
> S704-1 non-stc contactor sold by B&C has this diode
> built in. If in doubt as to the existence of a diode,
> then a 1N540x series diode from Radio Shack. See:
>
> http://216.55.140.222/temp/RS_Diodes.jpg
>
> Banded end to "S" terminal
>
> See:
>
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/s702wire.jpg
>
> an other end to a PIDG terminal around a mounting
> bold at the base of the contactor.
>
> Now, having decided that the switch in your stick
> grip may indeed live with this application, are you
> sure you REALLY want the starter button on the stick
> grip? Do you plan some kind of lockout circuitry
> to prevent inadvertent operation of starter after
> the engine is running?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 4-conductor shielded wire source |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:30 PM 7/18/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Can anybody recommend a source for 4-conductor shielded wire?
>
>This is for the remote compass harness on the Dynon EFIS-D10. Power,
>ground, tx, rx.
3 + shield works too. Use shield for ground. B&C
stocks this at
http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?8X358218
Shielded trio second up from bottom of page.
Bob . . .
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon encoder question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:01 AM 7/19/2003 -1000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Russ Werner" <russ@wernerworld.com>
>
>A friend at the hangar is wiring up his Dynon encoder functions to a KT76
>Transponder. The encoder has a "strobe" line out. The old Ameriking
>encoder manual said to put this line to ground when using a KT76.
>
>Is this the case with any encoder and should the Dynon "strobe" line also be
>grounded? We're guessing so, but anyone with some knowledge here that can
>point us right would be appreciated.
When in doubt, call the manufacturer . . . nobody will know more
about their stuff than they do. Their phone number is (425)402-0433
Bob . . .
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Switch Spacing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:35 PM 7/19/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
><jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
>Bob -
>
>What is a suggested spacing between the Carling switches on the panel?
>
>Thanks,
>
>John
I like 0.8"
Bob . . .
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Panel markings |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:50 AM 7/19/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 7/18/03 10:07:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
>bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
>
> > I make panels like that for a dollar or two every so often
> > by printing the artwork onto a piece of paper, laminate
> > it in my office laminator (Sam's Club $70), center-punch
> > hole centers on panel through placard, cut holes with
> > punches, spot facers and/or step-drill, stick placard
> > down over holes with photographic dry-mount (large sheets
> > of double sided sticky tape), cut holes in placards
> > with Xacto knife and mount parts.
> >
>
>Good Morning Bob,
>
>Have you ever tried it using the spray on photomount stuff instead of the
>dry-mount material.
>
>This is not a suggestion, just my curiosity!
Yes. it's similar to a number of spray-on contact
adhesives and messy (overspray). The dry mount stuff lets you apply
adhesive to the back of your placard and leave a peel-off
protective sheet in place until you're ready to mount it.
Bob . . .
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rondefly" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
Is it possible to run a 28V transponder from a 12V system? To get the
additional transmit power and is it worth it.
Ron Triano
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:50 AM 7/19/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 7/18/03 10:07:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
>bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
>
> > I make panels like that for a dollar or two every so often
> > by printing the artwork onto a piece of paper, laminate
> > it in my office laminator (Sam's Club $70), center-punch
> > hole centers on panel through placard, cut holes with
> > punches, spot facers and/or step-drill, stick placard
> > down over holes with photographic dry-mount (large sheets
> > of double sided sticky tape), cut holes in placards
> > with Xacto knife and mount parts.
> >
>
>Good Morning Bob,
>
>Have you ever tried it using the spray on photomount stuff instead of the
>dry-mount material.
>
>This is not a suggestion, just my curiosity!
Yes. it's similar to a number of spray-on contact
adhesives and messy (overspray). The dry mount stuff lets you apply
adhesive to the back of your placard and leave a peel-off
protective sheet in place until you're ready to mount it.
Bob . . .
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rondefly" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
Sorry, I asked for a transponder and should have said trancever.
Ron Triano
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of rondefly
Subject: AeroElectric-List: 28 Volt radio
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rondefly" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
Is it possible to run a 28V transponder from a 12V system? To get the
additional transmit power and is it worth it.
Ron Triano
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:50 AM 7/19/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 7/18/03 10:07:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
>bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
>
> > I make panels like that for a dollar or two every so often
> > by printing the artwork onto a piece of paper, laminate
> > it in my office laminator (Sam's Club $70), center-punch
> > hole centers on panel through placard, cut holes with
> > punches, spot facers and/or step-drill, stick placard
> > down over holes with photographic dry-mount (large sheets
> > of double sided sticky tape), cut holes in placards
> > with Xacto knife and mount parts.
> >
>
>Good Morning Bob,
>
>Have you ever tried it using the spray on photomount stuff instead of the
>dry-mount material.
>
>This is not a suggestion, just my curiosity!
Yes. it's similar to a number of spray-on contact
adhesives and messy (overspray). The dry mount stuff lets you apply
adhesive to the back of your placard and leave a peel-off
protective sheet in place until you're ready to mount it.
Bob . . .
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Narco ID-825 VOR/LOC/GS Indicator and Apollo SL-30 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Hester <kevinh-unfiltered@sneakyfrog.com>
Hi ya'll,
Does anyone know if this particular CDI will play with one of those new
shiny Apollo SL-30 nav/comms? Perhaps someone has a web page showing a
compatibility matrix?
Kevin
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:55 PM 7/20/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg's Mail"
><50coperhed@jbntelco.com>
>
> Bob, My starter solenoid looks like this ,from Vans
>
>http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1058730441-36-306&brow
>se=electrical&product=start-sw
>
>Do you think this would work Ok? with the diode and yes
>I will definitely have a disarming switch or the circuit you
>show in Z-27 of your book, I also have one electronic ign.
> Thanks, Greg Davis
I am unfamiliar with this product. Unless you can
see the word "diode" imprinted on the outside anywhere,
assume no diode is installed internally. I see only
one small terminal so it doesn't have an "I" terminal
like ours. The only 10-32 terminal is the "S" for switch
terminal. Diode goes from S terminal to mounting foot
as described earlier.
Bob . . .
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:17 PM 7/20/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rondefly" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
>
>Sorry, I asked for a transponder and should have said trancever.
>
>Ron Triano
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of rondefly
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: 28 Volt radio
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rondefly" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
>
>Is it possible to run a 28V transponder from a 12V system? To get the
>additional transmit power and is it worth it.
Probably not. There are other possible effects more profound
than a simple loss of power output. A 12 to 28v up-converter
is indicated.
Bob . . .
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:58 PM 7/20/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein"
><kycshann@kyol.net>
>
>Any idea what the winding resistance of the DC motor is? Is your 15
>amps a measured value, or a spec? 12v, 15A is about 180 watts. To run
>it at about 4 amps, you are going to have to disapate about (15-4)/15 or
>about 70% of the total watts, so about 130 watts. This is quite a bit.
>
>A better way to do it might be to pulse width modulate it, like they do
>on RC cars, just a though.
The only quality of a DC motor that can be deduced by
winding resistance is inrush or locked armature current.
Once a motor begins to rotate, it generates a counter-emf
internally that will eventually be nearly equal to that of
the supply voltage. For example, if a 14 volt motor has a
winding resistance of .3 ohms and draws 15A fully loaded,
then we know that the voltage drop across motor components
is 0.3 x 15 or 4.5 volts. This means that the motor is
generating a counter-emf of 14 - 4.5 or 9.5 volts.
Either way, a resistor to control this beastie will be
big and run hot. Duty cycle switching of the applied power
is, as Shannon suggested, the easiest and most efficient
way to go.
Are you reasonable handy with a soldering iron? A 555
timer, a big-hog power field effect transistor and a
hand-full of jelly bean parts can be assembled into
the necessary controller and it will barely warm up.
We would want to select a switching frequency that is
super-audible . . . something on the order of 15 KHz.
Do you plan to have either ADF or loran in your airplane?
If so, there are some noise filtering issues. If not,
the task is pretty easy.
In this case the control is a potentiometer which you
can set up for minimum speed at full ccw and max speed
at full cw. Of course, you could use a toggle switch
and have fixed speeds as well selected by resistor
value.
Bob . . .
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: wire current & Resistance for 26ga wire. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:18 PM 7/18/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WHigg1170@aol.com
>
>Hello need some help on wire sizing, all my wire size charts only go up to 24
>GA wire The vans instruments have 26 GA wire for the instrument lighting and
>the charts don't give me the maximum current (amps) and resistance (ohms/ft)
>IM looking for. What I want to do is connect one light to the next for six
>lights but the wire coming from the lights is only 26 gage and I don't
>know if at
>the end when I have one 26 GA wire powering 6 instrument lights is big
>enough.
> maybe this is not the way to wire them but how do I get 6 wires onto the
> one
>screw on the circuit breaker. Thanks for any input.
Bill,
Sounds like you're working with Westach instruments. Here's a comic
book on dealing with those or any other instruments that give you
short pigtails for internal lighting.
http://216.55.140.222/articles/InstLight1/InstLight1.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
I am fairly handy with a soldering iron just not the fastest on design stuff
(thanks for the help by the way guys), I can figure out a lot of stuff after
being pointed in the right direction or given some extra help, How would one
go about creating this pulse width module (Duty cycle switching) ?? Diagrams
maybe....parts required ?
It sounds like this is exactly what I want...the variable speed control via
a dial and runs cool.
I do not plan on having ADF or Loran only GPS, VOR, ILS, marker beacons,
transponder, com.
The current values were measured with the 12volt dc motor running full power
(aka 15 amps was max it actually settled down to about 14.8 or so after it
was running)
Thanks
Jeffrey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
--> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:58 PM 7/20/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein"
><kycshann@kyol.net>
>
>Any idea what the winding resistance of the DC motor is? Is your 15
>amps a measured value, or a spec? 12v, 15A is about 180 watts. To run
>it at about 4 amps, you are going to have to disapate about (15-4)/15
>or about 70% of the total watts, so about 130 watts. This is quite a
>bit.
>
>A better way to do it might be to pulse width modulate it, like they do
>on RC cars, just a though.
The only quality of a DC motor that can be deduced by
winding resistance is inrush or locked armature current.
Once a motor begins to rotate, it generates a counter-emf
internally that will eventually be nearly equal to that of
the supply voltage. For example, if a 14 volt motor has a
winding resistance of .3 ohms and draws 15A fully loaded,
then we know that the voltage drop across motor components
is 0.3 x 15 or 4.5 volts. This means that the motor is
generating a counter-emf of 14 - 4.5 or 9.5 volts.
Either way, a resistor to control this beastie will be
big and run hot. Duty cycle switching of the applied power
is, as Shannon suggested, the easiest and most efficient
way to go.
Are you reasonable handy with a soldering iron? A 555
timer, a big-hog power field effect transistor and a
hand-full of jelly bean parts can be assembled into
the necessary controller and it will barely warm up.
We would want to select a switching frequency that is
super-audible . . . something on the order of 15 KHz.
Do you plan to have either ADF or loran in your airplane?
If so, there are some noise filtering issues. If not,
the task is pretty easy.
In this case the control is a potentiometer which you
can set up for minimum speed at full ccw and max speed
at full cw. Of course, you could use a toggle switch
and have fixed speeds as well selected by resistor
value.
Bob . . .
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses]
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: BatteryTerminalBoltCorrosion |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:02 PM 7/18/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
>I'm thinking of replacing the 3/16 coarse thread bolts that came with my
>Panasonic LC-RD1217P battery with cadmium plated fine thread AN bolts. Do
>the Panasonic bolts have any special corrosion prevention properties that
>would be lost by going to cadmium plate?
>
>Dave Reel - RV8A
You can use any kind of hardware you like. RG batteries
don't eat on their own hardware like flooded batteries do.
Caution, did the Panasonic come with recommended torque values
for supplied hardware? Does the Panasonic battery have thick
lead posts or do they appear to be thinner and harder stuff?
If thick lead posts -AND- if they gave you idea torque values,
then there is risk of over-pressure on the soft posts when
going to finer pitch thread which will produce more force at
same torque.
Bob . . .
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Switch Spacing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Bob -
Thanks. Another question: Been looking at the Carling website and cannot
find the series of switches that B&C carry. I'm looking for the dimensions
and specs needed to accurately plot them in AutoCAD. Will be sending the
file off for a CNC/CAD cutting of the aluminum panels.
Thanks,
John
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lamp Assy. Need A Source.. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:19 PM 7/19/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N2321G@aol.com
>
>Im working on a project for an some industrial equipment and I need a lamp
>assembly as follows, (I seem to recall seeing these on GA airplanes)
>
>Panel indicator lamp, made in a fashion similar to a Whelan instrument post
>light, but the bulb is about 5/16" in diameter.
>The bulb has a smooth, flanged base, no threads.
>The bulb fits inside a 1/2" plastic "cube" that pushes into a flush mounted
>socket from the front of the panel.
>As I recall they were used in applications such as landing gear position
>indicator lights, where you could pull the bulb from one socket and stick
>it in
>the other to check if the gear had malfunctioned, or if the bulb was
>burned out.
>
>Does anyone know who makes these and what the source might be?
Your description doesn't ring any bells. I don't recall
any lamp that matches your recollection.
I've uploaded a couple of miniature lamp catalogs. Perhaps
you'll recognize the lamp in one of these.
http://216.55.140.222/Mfgr_Data/GE/Miniature_SealedBeam.pdf
http://216.55.140.222/Mfgr_Data/Phillips/mini_seal.pdf
. . . you mentioned a post light but what you describe
sounds more like an annunciator fixture.
Bob . . .
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann@kyol.net>
You might be able to buy a PWM controller from a hobby shop. Look for
one they use on RC cars. Not sure how much current they handle, or how
your vary the speed, but I assume the current would be close, and the
control would be external by some sort of pot (I think the radio
controls a servo that turns a pot that feeds the PWM controller, but I'm
not sure).
If this doesn't work, I'm sure bob can whip you up a circuit you can
build.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jeffrey W. Skiba
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba"
<jskiba@icosa.net>
I am fairly handy with a soldering iron just not the fastest on design
stuff
(thanks for the help by the way guys), I can figure out a lot of stuff
after
being pointed in the right direction or given some extra help, How would
one
go about creating this pulse width module (Duty cycle switching) ??
Diagrams
maybe....parts required ?
It sounds like this is exactly what I want...the variable speed control
via
a dial and runs cool.
I do not plan on having ADF or Loran only GPS, VOR, ILS, marker beacons,
transponder, com.
The current values were measured with the 12volt dc motor running full
power
(aka 15 amps was max it actually settled down to about 14.8 or so after
it
was running)
Thanks
Jeffrey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
--> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:58 PM 7/20/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein"
><kycshann@kyol.net>
>
>Any idea what the winding resistance of the DC motor is? Is your 15
>amps a measured value, or a spec? 12v, 15A is about 180 watts. To run
>it at about 4 amps, you are going to have to disapate about (15-4)/15
>or about 70% of the total watts, so about 130 watts. This is quite a
>bit.
>
>A better way to do it might be to pulse width modulate it, like they do
>on RC cars, just a though.
The only quality of a DC motor that can be deduced by
winding resistance is inrush or locked armature current.
Once a motor begins to rotate, it generates a counter-emf
internally that will eventually be nearly equal to that of
the supply voltage. For example, if a 14 volt motor has a
winding resistance of .3 ohms and draws 15A fully loaded,
then we know that the voltage drop across motor components
is 0.3 x 15 or 4.5 volts. This means that the motor is
generating a counter-emf of 14 - 4.5 or 9.5 volts.
Either way, a resistor to control this beastie will be
big and run hot. Duty cycle switching of the applied power
is, as Shannon suggested, the easiest and most efficient
way to go.
Are you reasonable handy with a soldering iron? A 555
timer, a big-hog power field effect transistor and a
hand-full of jelly bean parts can be assembled into
the necessary controller and it will barely warm up.
We would want to select a switching frequency that is
super-audible . . . something on the order of 15 KHz.
Do you plan to have either ADF or loran in your airplane?
If so, there are some noise filtering issues. If not,
the task is pretty easy.
In this case the control is a potentiometer which you
can set up for minimum speed at full ccw and max speed
at full cw. Of course, you could use a toggle switch
and have fixed speeds as well selected by resistor
value.
Bob . . .
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses]
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Switch Spacing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:52 PM 7/20/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
><jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
>Bob -
>
>Thanks. Another question: Been looking at the Carling website and cannot
>find the series of switches that B&C carry. I'm looking for the dimensions
>and specs needed to accurately plot them in AutoCAD. Will be sending the
>file off for a CNC/CAD cutting of the aluminum panels.
>
>Thanks,
See http://www.bandc.biz/Toggle_Switch.html
Bob . . .
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lamp Assy. Need A Source.. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N2321G@aol.com
In a message dated 7/20/2003 10:12:00 PM Central Daylight Time,
bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
> http://216.55.140.222/Mfgr_Data/Phillips/mini_seal.pdf
Yes it is an annuciator, but its construction is very much like a Whelan Post
light!
Thanks
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: XM Radio whine |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
Thanks to those that wrote. It looks like there's a ground loop
*somewhere* but I'll be damned if I can find it. It certainly isn't in the
wiring to the radio, it must be somewhere else in the system.
A ground loop filter from radio shack has taken care of 90% of the problem.
At 09:31 PM 7/17/03 -0700, richard@riley.net wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
>
>A friend of mine has just installed a Delphi XM radio in a Berkut 540,
>feeding a PS 2000 intercom. We're using Lightspeed headsets.
>
>Prior to the radio install the audio system was fine, now there's a very
>loud high pitched whine. The whine varies pitch directly with engine RPM.
>
>Three things make the whine stop completely - shutting off the alt. field,
>disconnecting the audio output from the XM radio to the music input of the
>intercom, and disconnecting the power going to the XM radio. Turning the
>radio off doesn't stop the whine.
>
>The radio was wired directly to the battery (with an inline fuse), then
>wired to the battery through a 20 amp Radio Shack noise filter. The filter
>does nothing.
>
>We're about to fly from Los Angeles to Kitty Hawk, to Dayton, Oshkosh,
>Texas and back to LA. Music would make the trip much nicer. Any suggestions?
>
>
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
I was surfing around and it appears that the highest freq RC car controllers
go to is 4 KHZ (not 15 KHZ as suggested)
I was also surfing looking for a simple PWM motor controller diagram I could
build but either they include a whole bunch of what appears to be Extra
stuff Reverse, braking etc... Or they are way to low on the Freq 400 Hz, or
they are way short on current requirement (can only handle 1 amp) or all of
the above.
Any ideas Guys ??
Thanks Jeffrey.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shannon
Knoepflein
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein"
--> <kycshann@kyol.net>
You might be able to buy a PWM controller from a hobby shop. Look for one
they use on RC cars. Not sure how much current they handle, or how your
vary the speed, but I assume the current would be close, and the control
would be external by some sort of pot (I think the radio controls a servo
that turns a pot that feeds the PWM controller, but I'm not sure).
If this doesn't work, I'm sure bob can whip you up a circuit you can build.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeffrey
W. Skiba
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba"
<jskiba@icosa.net>
I am fairly handy with a soldering iron just not the fastest on design stuff
(thanks for the help by the way guys), I can figure out a lot of stuff after
being pointed in the right direction or given some extra help, How would one
go about creating this pulse width module (Duty cycle switching) ?? Diagrams
maybe....parts required ?
It sounds like this is exactly what I want...the variable speed control via
a dial and runs cool.
I do not plan on having ADF or Loran only GPS, VOR, ILS, marker beacons,
transponder, com. The current values were measured with the 12volt dc motor
running full power (aka 15 amps was max it actually settled down to about
14.8 or so after it was running)
Thanks
Jeffrey
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Either fixed or variable Rehostat
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
--> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:58 PM 7/20/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein"
><kycshann@kyol.net>
>
>Any idea what the winding resistance of the DC motor is? Is your 15
>amps a measured value, or a spec? 12v, 15A is about 180 watts. To run
>it at about 4 amps, you are going to have to disapate about (15-4)/15
>or about 70% of the total watts, so about 130 watts. This is quite a
>bit.
>
>A better way to do it might be to pulse width modulate it, like they do
>on RC cars, just a though.
The only quality of a DC motor that can be deduced by
winding resistance is inrush or locked armature current.
Once a motor begins to rotate, it generates a counter-emf
internally that will eventually be nearly equal to that of
the supply voltage. For example, if a 14 volt motor has a
winding resistance of .3 ohms and draws 15A fully loaded,
then we know that the voltage drop across motor components
is 0.3 x 15 or 4.5 volts. This means that the motor is
generating a counter-emf of 14 - 4.5 or 9.5 volts.
Either way, a resistor to control this beastie will be
big and run hot. Duty cycle switching of the applied power
is, as Shannon suggested, the easiest and most efficient
way to go.
Are you reasonable handy with a soldering iron? A 555
timer, a big-hog power field effect transistor and a
hand-full of jelly bean parts can be assembled into
the necessary controller and it will barely warm up.
We would want to select a switching frequency that is
super-audible . . . something on the order of 15 KHz.
Do you plan to have either ADF or loran in your airplane?
If so, there are some noise filtering issues. If not,
the task is pretty easy.
In this case the control is a potentiometer which you
can set up for minimum speed at full ccw and max speed
at full cw. Of course, you could use a toggle switch
and have fixed speeds as well selected by resistor
value.
Bob . . .
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses]
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses]
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|