Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:40 AM - Re: garmin 155xl pin out (CardinalNSB@aol.com)
2. 05:07 AM - Voltage converter necessary? (William Bernard)
3. 06:38 AM - Re: Voltage converter necessary? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:51 AM - Becker Hi and Lo (Gilles.Thesee)
5. 06:51 AM - Re: GPS 400 hook up questions (Gilles.Thesee)
6. 07:53 AM - About Learning Electronics (Eric M. Jones)
7. 09:19 AM - Annunciator for Water Level Sensor (owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com)
8. 09:34 AM - Turing up the FREQ..Either fixed or variable Rehostat (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
9. 09:38 AM - small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt ()
10. 10:28 AM - Re: small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt (Jim Daniels)
11. 10:41 AM - Re: small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt (Richard Tasker)
12. 10:55 AM - Engine vibration monitor? (Scott Bilinski)
13. 11:49 AM - Ignition wire pulse generator (brent bourgeois)
14. 12:18 PM - Re: Turing up the FREQ..Either fixed or variable (Richard Tasker)
15. 12:23 PM - Re: meter ()
16. 12:46 PM - Re: Ignition wire pulse generator (William Shaffer)
17. 12:57 PM - Re: Re: meter (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 01:04 PM - Re: Switch-breaker same style as toggle switch? (Neville Kilford)
19. 01:07 PM - Re: Ignition wire pulse generator (Gary V)
20. 01:15 PM - Re: Ignition wire pulse generator (William Mills)
21. 01:27 PM - Re: small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt (Finn Lassen)
22. 02:15 PM - Dynon EFIS D10 Problem (Ronnie Brown)
23. 02:41 PM - Re: Ignition wire pulse generator (Scott Bilinski)
24. 03:01 PM - Re: Annunciator Panel on the cheap (Neville Kilford)
25. 03:18 PM - Re: Panel markings (Neville Kilford)
26. 03:29 PM - Re: Panel markings (Neville Kilford)
27. 03:31 PM - Re: Routing cables around back of panel (Neville Kilford)
28. 03:37 PM - Re: Routing cables around back of panel (David Glauser)
29. 03:49 PM - Re: Dual Battery / Single Alternator (John Schroeder)
30. 03:56 PM - Re: Engine vibration monitor? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
31. 04:01 PM - Re: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem (David Chalmers)
32. 04:06 PM - Re: Routing cables around back of panel (Matt Prather)
33. 04:18 PM - Re: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem (Canyon)
34. 04:25 PM - Re: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem (Canyon)
35. 04:55 PM - Re: small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt (Mike Heinen)
36. 05:29 PM - Re: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem (John Schroeder)
37. 07:35 PM - Re: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem (Larry Bowen)
38. 08:07 PM - Re: batteries (C J Heitman)
39. 08:22 PM - Re: small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt (Tom...)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: garmin 155xl pin out |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CardinalNSB@aol.com
I believe they are on Garmin's web site. If not, email me and I will get you
a copy of mine. Skip Simpson
Message 2
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| Subject: | Voltage converter necessary? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
I've got a Sporty's JD200 handheld radio that I'd like to be able to power from
the aircraft system. The radio uses 8 alkaline batteries for 12 volts and has
an input on the side for 12 volts.
Sporty's sells an adapter for about $75 which seems like a lot of $$$$.
Is some sort of converter needed to regulate aircraft voltage to 12 volts, similar
to the recent discussion of reducing to 9V for the ANR headset, or could I
just make a small cord and plug to connect the aircraft system to the radio?
Any thoughts are welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Bill
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage converter necessary? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:10 AM 7/24/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard"
><billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
>
>I've got a Sporty's JD200 handheld radio that I'd like to be able to power
>from the aircraft system. The radio uses 8 alkaline batteries for 12 volts
>and has an input on the side for 12 volts.
>
>Sporty's sells an adapter for about $75 which seems like a lot of $$$$.
>
>Is some sort of converter needed to regulate aircraft voltage to 12 volts,
>similar to the recent discussion of reducing to 9V for the ANR headset, or
>could I just make a small cord and plug to connect the aircraft system to
>the radio?
>
>Any thoughts are welcome.
>
>Thanks in advance.
Adapters may be designed not only to change voltage
level but to filter off incoming noises from the bus
as well.
Give it a try. You may find that because the radio was
initially designed to work with the quietest power sources
known to man (batteries) that it is extra-ordinarily sensitive
to common noises on the bus . . . which means that you add
a filter.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Becker Hi and Lo |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Bob and all,
This matter has been addressed before, however I'm still not sure what to
do.
I'm connecting a Becker AR4201 comm with a Sigtronics SCI-S4 intercom.
The Sigtronics manual is clear : connect the radio mic key, and the
headphone audio and mic audio (the Hi wires...) to the corresponding wires
of the intercom. No shields necessary.
But they make no mention of the Lo wires. Whereas Becker calls for
connecting shields between the respective barrels and "mike ground" and
"audio Lo" pins on the Becker connector.
The jacks are wired according to the Sigtronics instructions (barrels to
ground).
What do I do with those "mike ground" and "audio Lo" pins on the Becker
connector ?
- Ignore them ?
- Connect them both to the radio ground pin ?
- Connect them with dedicated wires to the firewall ground bus ?
Any suggestions welcome.
Thanks,
Gilles
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: GPS 400 hook up questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Bob and all,
After a little searching and a phone call to CAE Avionics in Luxemburg, I
may be able to answer my questions :
>
> I'm in the process of designing the interconnect "Y shaped" harness
between
> an AK 350 encoder, a Becker 4401 XPDR (needs isolation diodes) and a
Garmin
> GPS 400 (already has internal diodes).
..............
> Question 1 :
> The encoder GND pin(# 15) is connected to the Becker GND pin (#25),
> according to their respective installation manuals.
> Now what should I do with the "altitude common" pin (# 60) on the GPS ?
> Leave it alone ?
> Connect it to ground with it's own wire to the firewall ? (The GPS already
> has it's ground wire to the firewall)
> Connect it to the GND pin at the encoder or at the transponder?
>
They told me to connect it "direct to ground"
> Question 2 :
> The GPS connector kit includes some black plastic connector. The
> installation manual only mentions :
> "the card-edge connector may be used to terminate shield grouds to the 400
> series back plate"
My intention is to install it and not use it since I have no shields to
connect.
Any opinions ?
Thanks
Gilles
Message 6
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| Subject: | About Learning Electronics |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Ten Things to Know about Learning Electronics:
1) Any book about electronics that begins with vacuum tubes; just tip it
into the trash or bandsaw out the insides and glue the pages together for a neat
Book-Stash. Subscribe to an electronics magazine. Buy Forrest Mims' "Engineer's
Notebook at your local Radio Shack (The only book you will need for a long
time). ---he's online too.
2) Everything you ever wanted to know is available online. Use the Google
miracle. Broadband please!
3) Albert Einstein taught: If you are not interested in something you really
can't learn it. Education usually consists of fooling oneself into being interested.
This is itself a learned art and usually involves solving some puzzle
that you yourself have created.
4) Get to know the names of things. If you are reading something and come
across "phase converter", find out what a "phase converter" is. You may never
need one, but that's important to know too.
5) You don't have to know everything. Electronics is a huge field and to
know microprocessors does not mean you know much about radios. Even knowing about
low frequency radios does not mean you know much about high frequencies. It's
a huge field.
6) Pick up several multimeters. One of them should measure capacitance. Buy an old Tektronics 465 oscilloscope on eBay for $100. This is the Cessna 172 of 'scopes and you can pass it on to your son, or sell it on eBay to get your money back. http://www.surplussales.com/Manuals/man_tek.html has manuals. Buy a cheap function generator or make one using an Exar XR2206 function-generator IC (a great first project too!).
7) You can't do without a prototype breadboard. It makes prototyping and
learning much easier. And a stock of parts in your junk box is required.
8) Get to know Digikey, All-Electronics, and other neat sources of parts.
Get their catalogs and page through them often for a good education.
9) Integrated Circuits do almost everything. Get to know them personally.
When a circuit has a bunch of transistors and twenty or more parts-know that
there is an integrated circuit that does that job better and cheaper.
10) It puzzles beginners why there are SO MANY DARNED part numbers. The reason
is that there are so many different characteristics. Take heart! Examples of
the characteristics are, package details, voltage withstand, operating temps,
volts, amps, wattage, etc. etc. etc. etc. Develop a palette of favorite parts
and become familiar with them. Then you can use different stuff when you need
to satisfy special parameters.
And for free----My physics professor in electro-magnetic theory said to me, "Take
some advice.stay away from antenna design. It's all Black Art and Voo Doo."
Buy my Wig-wag D!
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Message 7
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
Subject: Annunciator for Water Level Sensor
The engine that I will be installing in my kit-built Mustang II aircraft is
water-cooled. I have a water-level sensor that I obtained from a Mazda RX-7
radiator, which I want to use to tell me when the water level in the
radiator is too low. I do not have the circuitry imbedded in the car's
computer that interprets the signal from the sensor and turns on a light in
the car.
The sensor screws into an appropriate spot in the radiator (or a fitting in
a water hose/line) and has a current that runs from a wire attached to the
sensor to the isolated probe that screws into the radiator and then flows
through the water in the radiator to a ground attached to the metal in the
radiator that touches the water. As long is there is water at the level of
the sensor, the current flows, but if the water drops below the sensor, the
current stops.
My question is this: What sort of circuit do I need to allow an annunciator
light on the instrument panel to turn on when the water in the radiator gets
too low? The current flow through the water is subject to some resistance
(5 to 10 thousand ohms as measured by my Multimeter). I need something that
will cause a separate circuit with a light bulb in it to turn on when the
flow of current through the sensor stops, i.e. no water is touching the
sensor. Any ideas?
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<META NAME"Generator" CONTENT"MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2654.89">
Annunciator for Water Level Sensor
The engine that I will be installing in my kit-built Mustang II aircraft is water-cooled.
I have a water-level sensor that I obtained from a Mazda RX-7 radiator,
which I want to use to tell me when the water level in the radiator is too
low. I do not have the circuitry imbedded in the car's computer that interprets
the signal from the sensor and turns on a light in the car.
The sensor screws into an appropriate spot in the radiator (or a fitting in a water
hose/line) and has a current that runs from a wire attached to the sensor
to the isolated probe that screws into the radiator and then flows through the
water in the radiator to a ground attached to the metal in the radiator that
touches the water. As long is there is water at the level of the sensor, the
current flows, but if the water drops below the sensor, the current stops.
My question is this: What sort of circuit do I need to allow an annunciator light
on the instrument panel to turn on when the water in the radiator gets too
low? The current flow through the water is subject to some resistance (5 to 10
thousand ohms as measured by my Multimeter). I need something that will cause
a separate circuit with a light bulb in it to turn on when the flow of current
through the sensor stops, i.e. no water is touching the sensor. Any ideas?
Message 8
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| Subject: | Turing up the FREQ..Either fixed or variable Rehostat |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
Any body wanna take a stab at values for changing this circuit (on page one
of the link) to a higher freq like the suggested 15 KHz and what it might
do to the existing circuit if anything at all to control the dc motor issue.
http://www.mpja.com/download/6067kt.pdf
Thanks
Jeff
Message 9
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| Subject: | small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
Do not Archive
Off TOpic
Anyone know where I can purchase a small digital voltmeter display accurate
+- .1 V range from 0 to 1 volt or 0 to 20 volt would be okay.
I am putting together a Air Fuel Ratio Display with an O2 sensor to
supplement my EGT's and better determine when I am runnung my 4.3 L V6 Lean.
A small 1 x 2 inch 2 or 3 digit display of voltage would be great. As I
understand it the O2 sensor will put out 0.5 v when stoichimetric combustion
occures.
I have thought of cannibalizing my $8 Cen-Tech multimeter but the IC in much
larger than the display:(
Thanks,
Ned
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
On Thursday, July 24, 2003, at 10:35 AM, 315@cox.net wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
> Do not Archive
> Off TOpic
>
> Anyone know where I can purchase a small digital voltmeter display
> accurate
> +- .1 V range from 0 to 1 volt or 0 to 20 volt would be okay.
Ned, we use these at work and they are very nice but they are a little
pricey:
http://store.datel.com/cgi-bin/datel.storefront/EN/Catalog/1013
Jim
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
Try this.
http://www.bgmicro.com/prodinfo.asp?sid=052568287037037141153216115&prodid=MET1031&page=1&cri=MET1031&stype=3
You may have to repair the URL (cut and paste the pieces together).
Dick Tasker, RV9A, 90573
Fuselage on it's way!
315@cox.net wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
>Do not Archive
>Off TOpic
>
>Anyone know where I can purchase a small digital voltmeter display accurate
>+- .1 V range from 0 to 1 volt or 0 to 20 volt would be okay.
>
>I am putting together a Air Fuel Ratio Display with an O2 sensor to
>supplement my EGT's and better determine when I am runnung my 4.3 L V6 Lean.
>A small 1 x 2 inch 2 or 3 digit display of voltage would be great. As I
>understand it the O2 sensor will put out 0.5 v when stoichimetric combustion
>occures.
>
>I have thought of cannibalizing my $8 Cen-Tech multimeter but the IC in much
>larger than the display:(
>
>Thanks,
>Ned
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Engine vibration monitor? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I am thinking of creating (for me) a engine vibration monitor to go along
with my engine monitor display. I can use an accelerometer and a display to
measure the vibration. They do this on expensive, critical pumps and motors
now. The idea is to have a display that reads from 1-100(?), and at cruise
you would be reading a steady 60 (?). Any change of more than (5) points
(?) and you might have a problem. The idea is to associate common operating
senarios with a number on the display. Lets say you set 23 square reguarly
in cruise and always read 52. One day you are reading 63, just might want
to land and check it out. I know there are issues such as the sensor needs
24 volts, and I might need to filter out some "stuff" electricall but it is
fairly easy to do for 2-3 hundred bucks.
Anyone have any thoughts, info, experience on this?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 13
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| Subject: | Ignition wire pulse generator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: brent bourgeois <bjb3013@yahoo.com>
I am currently working on a twin project that would be
a whole lot easier if I could use a signal off my
engines spark plug wires (inductive)as a tach drive
source. My mag and coil are really hard to get at and
if I could get a pulse off of an ignition wire it
would help.
A friend told me that there is a small ultralight /
Rotax tach that uses a input lead wrapped around the
plug wires. How does this work? Years ago I installed
a car cruise control and the speed/RPM pick up was
this way. I cannot find either unit now. Is there a
pickup or sender that I could buy ? Is this something
that can be homemade?
Thanks for the help
BJB
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Turing up the FREQ..Either fixed or variable |
Rehostat
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
Replace C2 and C6 with 2700pf capacitors. This will increase the
operating frequency to approximately 15kHz.
The NE556 timers can do this without a problem. You will have more self
heating of the IRFZ44 at the higher frequency due to the finite rise and
fall times of the NE556 output. If you are using the board close to the
specified current limits this could be a problem - you will have to
experiment. If you are no where near the limits, it shouldn't be a problem.
Email if you have questions.
Dick Tasker, RV9A, 90573
Fuselage is on the way!
Jeffrey W. Skiba wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
>
>Any body wanna take a stab at values for changing this circuit (on page one
>of the link) to a higher freq like the suggested 15 KHz and what it might
>do to the existing circuit if anything at all to control the dc motor issue.
>http://www.mpja.com/download/6067kt.pdf
>Thanks
>Jeff
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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"Aeroelectric-List@Matronics.Com" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
Hi Jerzy and list members,
Thanks for the lead on a voltage display. I called the store for some tech
help but they were unable to assure me of the accuracy of the unit. They
said they had no tech people only sales. I just want to make sure it will
read with accuracy of at least .05 volt plus or minus. The voltage I need
to monitor is from 0 to 0.9 volts. Do you happen to know if it will read
this range acurrately?
http://www.allelectronics.com/spec/PM-102B.pdf
They also ahave another display that would fit physically in my panel. Would
it work?
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=385&item=PM-200&type=store
Clueless:(
Thanks again,
Ned
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerzy Krasinski" <krasinski@direcway.com>
Subject: meter
> Check catalog # PM-102B, ~$15, in www.allelectronics.com, or 818 904
0524.
> It has LED display and it can have its input ground connected to the
> power ground. Beware, many of such meters do not allow to do this.
> Jerzy
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire pulse generator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: William Shaffer <shafferaviation@yahoo.com>
tinytach makes several you can get more infro at www.tinytach.com
Bill shafferaviation@yahoo.com
brent bourgeois <bjb3013@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: brent bourgeois
I am currently working on a twin project that would be
a whole lot easier if I could use a signal off my
engines spark plug wires (inductive)as a tach drive
source. My mag and coil are really hard to get at and
if I could get a pulse off of an ignition wire it
would help.
A friend told me that there is a small ultralight /
Rotax tach that uses a input lead wrapped around the
plug wires. How does this work? Years ago I installed
a car cruise control and the speed/RPM pick up was
this way. I cannot find either unit now. Is there a
pickup or sender that I could buy ? Is this something
that can be homemade?
Thanks for the help
BJB
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
---------------------------------
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:22 PM 7/24/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
>Hi Jerzy and list members,
>
>Thanks for the lead on a voltage display. I called the store for some tech
>help but they were unable to assure me of the accuracy of the unit. They
>said they had no tech people only sales. I just want to make sure it will
>read with accuracy of at least .05 volt plus or minus. The voltage I need
>to monitor is from 0 to 0.9 volts. Do you happen to know if it will read
>this range acurrately?
>
>http://www.allelectronics.com/spec/PM-102B.pdf
>
>They also ahave another display that would fit physically in my panel. Would
>it work?
Typical specifications on a 3-1/2 digit panel meter is
199.9 millivolts full scale. Accuracy of this device exceeds
1% or +/- 2 millivolts. Your application asks for 10:1 attenuator
for a full-scale range of 0 to 2000 millivolts. One can easily
easily trim the attenuator to get accuracy equal to or better than
your requirement of +/- 50 millivolts.
Be advised however that MOST of the low cost devices need a 9v
power supply that CANNOT share a connection with system ground.
This means that your indicator would need to have a separate
power switch to control connection to a battery.
An alkaline 9v battery will give a service life of years
in the airplane but to take advantage of these very low
cost instruments requires special consideration for
power supply requirements.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Switch-breaker same style as toggle switch? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
Thanks, Doug.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <N1deltawhiskey@aol.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch-breaker same style as toggle switch?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N1deltawhiskey@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 7/21/2003 7:44:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> nkilford@etravel.org writes:
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford"
> <nkilford@etravel.
> > org>
> >
> > Hi guys,
> >
> > I note in the Aeroelectric Connection, Bob recommends using a switch
> breaker
> > for ground power connector o/v protection. A good idea, but does anyone
> > know
> > whether the switch breakers are exactly the same size and look as the
> > toggles
> > that I've bought from B&C?
> >
> > Many thanks.
> >
> > Nev
> >
> Nev,
>
> Probably not. And you probably do not want them to be. The major
difference
> is that switchbreakers have their amp rating stamped on the end of the
> toggle, a flat surface rather than the rounded surface of the Carling
switches sold
> by B&C. But otherwise, they go well together and look pretty identical on
the
> front side. The SW's are 0.75" wide.
>
> Doug Windhorn
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire pulse generator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary V" <corinth@iprimus.ca>
The tach you are looking for is called Tiny Tach. Aircraft Spruce carries
them.
Gary Van Leeuwen
RV6A, wiring
----- Original Message -----
From: "brent bourgeois" <bjb3013@yahoo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Ignition wire pulse generator
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: brent bourgeois
<bjb3013@yahoo.com>
>
> I am currently working on a twin project that would be
> a whole lot easier if I could use a signal off my
> engines spark plug wires (inductive)as a tach drive
> source. My mag and coil are really hard to get at and
> if I could get a pulse off of an ignition wire it
> would help.
>
> A friend told me that there is a small ultralight /
> Rotax tach that uses a input lead wrapped around the
> plug wires. How does this work? Years ago I installed
> a car cruise control and the speed/RPM pick up was
> this way. I cannot find either unit now. Is there a
> pickup or sender that I could buy ? Is this something
> that can be homemade?
>
> Thanks for the help
> BJB
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire pulse generator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: William Mills <courierboy@earthlink.net>
Brent -
See:
http://www.tinytach.com/
Click on "Tiny-Tach". This is the inductive type that wraps around a plug wire.
I have heard folks get good results with this system (I've not used one).
Also heard that shielded spark plug wire may reduce accuracy.
Good topic for discussion.
Bill
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: brent bourgeois <bjb3013@yahoo.com>
>
>I am currently working on a twin project that would be
>a whole lot easier if I could use a signal off my
>engines spark plug wires (inductive)as a tach drive
>source. My mag and coil are really hard to get at and
>if I could get a pulse off of an ignition wire it
>would help.
>
> A friend told me that there is a small ultralight /
>Rotax tach that uses a input lead wrapped around the
>plug wires. How does this work? Years ago I installed
>a car cruise control and the speed/RPM pick up was
>this way. I cannot find either unit now. Is there a
>pickup or sender that I could buy ? Is this something
>that can be homemade?
>
>Thanks for the help
>BJB
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
http://www.jdr.com/interact/item.asp?itemno=PM-128
$9.18
Note that it needs a separate 9V battery! Battery ground is not same a
measurementr ground. Battery need to float.
315@cox.net wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
>Do not Archive
>Off TOpic
>
>Anyone know where I can purchase a small digital voltmeter display accurate
>+- .1 V range from 0 to 1 volt or 0 to 20 volt would be okay.
>
>I am putting together a Air Fuel Ratio Display with an O2 sensor to
>supplement my EGT's and better determine when I am runnung my 4.3 L V6 Lean.
>A small 1 x 2 inch 2 or 3 digit display of voltage would be great. As I
>understand it the O2 sensor will put out 0.5 v when stoichimetric combustion
>occures.
>
>I have thought of cannibalizing my $8 Cen-Tech multimeter but the IC in much
>larger than the display:(
>
>Thanks,
>Ned
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
I tried to help a friend of mine update the software in his new Dynon.
The reason he was doing the software update was that his "attitude gyro"
rolled over after about 15 minutes of flight.
He called Dynon and they said yep, they found a problem and he needed to
update his software to the latest which I downloaded and installed on my
laptop.
When we connected the laptop to the Dynon, the Dynon flashes up a black
screen and has the message "Loading" and that is all it will do. We
disconnected the laptop, repowered the Dynon and it continued to say
"loading".
He called Dynon and they said, we had this happen once before, did you use
the machined D sub connector pins, which he replied no, he used a solder cup
connector from the Shack. The factory guy says this is his problem and the
connector pins need to be replaced!
Hmmmmm, I have never heard of this in my 30 years of working with computers
and instrumentation. The connector only has power and ground - no remote
sensors are used.
Am I wrong that these pins should work?????
If their pins are so "picky", then Dynon should supply the mating connector.
THANKS!
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition wire pulse generator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Just called them, only $36.00
At 01:13 PM 7/24/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: William Mills
><courierboy@earthlink.net>
>
>Brent -
>
>See:
>http://www.tinytach.com/
>Click on "Tiny-Tach". This is the inductive type that wraps around a plug
wire.
>I have heard folks get good results with this system (I've not used one).
>Also heard that shielded spark plug wire may reduce accuracy.
>Good topic for discussion.
>
>Bill
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: brent bourgeois <bjb3013@yahoo.com>
>>
>>I am currently working on a twin project that would be
>>a whole lot easier if I could use a signal off my
>>engines spark plug wires (inductive)as a tach drive
>>source. My mag and coil are really hard to get at and
>>if I could get a pulse off of an ignition wire it
>>would help.
>>
>> A friend told me that there is a small ultralight /
>>Rotax tach that uses a input lead wrapped around the
>>plug wires. How does this work? Years ago I installed
>>a car cruise control and the speed/RPM pick up was
>>this way. I cannot find either unit now. Is there a
>>pickup or sender that I could buy ? Is this something
>>that can be homemade?
>>
>>Thanks for the help
>>BJB
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Annunciator Panel on the cheap |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
Bob & Mark,
I really appreciate your efforts on this one. Sure is going to be a
nice-looking annunciator though.
There has been a flurry of words about learning about electronics. Even the
simple ohms/amps/volts stuff warps my mind, so perhaps it's time to learn
some of it too. It's quite motivational to see the projects that people are
making, and it sure would be nice to be able to do similar.
Thanks again.
Nev
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Annunciator Panel on the cheap
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 11:30 AM 7/22/2003 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
> >
> >Thanks for the clarification- same LR3, multiple ways to utilize its lamp
> >
> >function.
> >
> >Another question based on the LV_Led drawing, you show 220 ohm in series
> >with the single LED for over 60mA LED current- does some current shunt
> >through the parallel resistor holding LED current to an acceptable level
> >when the lamp transistor turns on or are you seriously overdriving it?
> >(sorry- just can't grok this series/parallel stuff!)
>
> Under low volts conditions, bus voltage is 12.5 volts.
> LED voltage is about 2 volts. Therefore, current through
> series resistor is 10.5/220 or 47 mA. 2/220 is 9 mA so
> this leaves 38 or so to pass though the LED . . . a slight
> overdrive.
>
>
> >I am using your LVMM (without the parallel resistor) and a 240 ohm
> >resistor to overdrive the 3 series-connected LEDs in the block to about
> >30mA. Neville is using LED blocks with 5 LEDs in them, which should
> >require much smaller resistor values, particularly if using the parallel
> >resistor.
> 12.5 - (3 x 2) = 6.5 volts across resistor. 6.5/240 is indeed
> about 27 mA.
>
>
> >On his application, what resistor values would he use, assuming all 5
> >LEDs are series connected in place of the single one shown in the drawing?
>
> I'd go a string of 3 leds in series, paralleled with 2 leds in series
> each series string having its own ballasting resistor. 5 LED drop
> too much voltage to give you adequate indication intensity all the way
> down to battery-depleted levels of 10.5 volts.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Panel markings |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
Hi Jim,
Thanks for your note. I know exactly the process you mean, but I'm surprised
they could get it so small and still do a good job. They must have had a
really sharp cutter, for it to turn out well.
Cheers.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst"
<joberst@cox-internet.com>
>
> I had vinyl lettering made by the local sign-maker. He had to try a couple
> of times to get the vinyl cut just right so the small letters separated
> well. I think we used 12-point. I had to separate the letters from the
> background and pick out the centers... I couldn't pay that guy enough to do
> it. But it wasn't very difficult, and it looks real good.
>
> Jim Oberst
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford"
> <nkilford@etravel.org>
> >
> > Hi guys,
> >
> > I've noted on Bob's toggle switch layouts that they look fantastic with
> all
> > the text and boxes marked on the panel. How does one get a neat job of
> this,
> > and other placarding, on a real panel? I can only think of screen
> printing,
> > but it would be pretty expensive for a one-off.
> >
> > Any suggestions or experiences gratefully appreciated.
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> > Nev
> >
> > --
> > Jodel D150 in progress
> > UK
> >
> >
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Panel markings |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
Thanks, Bruce.
They certainly look good - especially the engraving through one layer of
paint to reveal an underlying layer.
Cheers.
Nev
do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
> Check out www.engravers.net
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Neville Kilford
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Panel markings
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford"
> <nkilford@etravel.org>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I've noted on Bob's toggle switch layouts that they look fantastic with
> all
> the text and boxes marked on the panel. How does one get a neat job of
> this,
> and other placarding, on a real panel? I can only think of screen
> printing,
> but it would be pretty expensive for a one-off.
>
> Any suggestions or experiences gratefully appreciated.
>
> Cheers.
>
> Nev
>
> --
> Jodel D150 in progress
> UK
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Routing cables around back of panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
Bob,
Thanks for the advice, but what's the JB Weld? A regular epoxy? I can't
seem to turn up anything on it. If I can't find a decent enough glue, I'll
use some soft csk alum. rivets to add a few strategically-positioned supports
before stove-enamelling. Should turn out alright, finish-wise.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Routing cables around back of panel
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 09:45 AM 7/14/2003 +0100, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford"
> ><nkilford@etravel.org>
> >
> >Hi guys,
> >
> >Does anyone have any suggestions for routing bundles of cables and tubes
> >around the back of the instrument panel? I'm using cable ties and
screw-down
> >bases for routing around the inside of the firewall, where the fuseholders
> >are, but I'm trying to avoid screws going through the panel.
> >
> >I can weld some lugs on the blind side of the panel to support cables, but
> >I'd be interested to know if there's a handy way of doing it.
> >
> >While I'm on the subject, what about the routing of cables from behind
> >instruments, radios, etc. It's only a foot or so, but what's a good way
to
> >secure cables from the back of a radio, say, down to the panel? It seems
as
> >though I should add some structure to support all the back-of-panel wiring
> >and tubing.
>
> There are a number of products offered as self-sticking
> mounting points for tie wraps. Depending on who's adhesive
> is supplied and how old it is, the self sticking
> feature can have a problematical service life.
>
> However, if you purchase the screw-mount versions -OR-
> strip the adhesive pad off the back, you can mount these
> to a clean aluminum surface with a good epoxy like
> JB Weld. If you need a standoff mounting that does not
> penetrate the panel, consider mounting a threaded spacer
> on a 1" square piece of aluminum using flathead screw, then
> bond aluminum base to back side of instrument panel.
>
> I've also used JB Weld to attach aluminum L-brackets to
> the back of a panel to provide mounting surface for
> wire bundle clamps, small accessory items, etc.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Routing cables around back of panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Glauser" <david.glauser@xpsystems.com>
JB Weld is right up there with duct tape.
http://www.j-bweld.com/
dg
-----Original Message-----
From: Neville Kilford [mailto:nkilford@etravel.org]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Routing cables around back of panel
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
Bob,
Thanks for the advice, but what's the JB Weld? A regular epoxy? I can't
seem to turn up anything on it. If I can't find a decent enough glue, I'll
use some soft csk alum. rivets to add a few strategically-positioned supports
before stove-enamelling. Should turn out alright, finish-wise.
Nev
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dual Battery / Single Alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Yep, tis true. Just install a larger battery on the starter, although
depending on temp and engine, the single 17AH battery may be all you need.
John
PS: I know that the Aerosance FADEC has been criticized for this, but it
should be evaluated on its other merits and using the criteria of what you
want out of your power plant.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Engine vibration monitor? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:49 AM 7/24/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>I am thinking of creating (for me) a engine vibration monitor to go along
>with my engine monitor display. I can use an accelerometer and a display to
>measure the vibration. They do this on expensive, critical pumps and motors
>now. The idea is to have a display that reads from 1-100(?), and at cruise
>you would be reading a steady 60 (?). Any change of more than (5) points
>(?) and you might have a problem. The idea is to associate common operating
>senarios with a number on the display. Lets say you set 23 square reguarly
>in cruise and always read 52. One day you are reading 63, just might want
>to land and check it out. I know there are issues such as the sensor needs
>24 volts, and I might need to filter out some "stuff" electricall but it is
>fairly easy to do for 2-3 hundred bucks.
>
>Anyone have any thoughts, info, experience on this?
Vibration sensing and display technology is relatively
easy to implement . . . especially if you don't need
to accurately quantify the measurements. Further,
you can do this for under $300.
But before we launch off on the hammer-n-tongs of such
a task, can you identify what incipient failures
of engine components that would present vibration
symptoms so subtle that you need instrumentation
to detect them?
In about 1500 hours, I've had one incident of an
aborted flight due to bad magneto (caught in
preflight) and one other with a bad plug (probably
failed last flight but not noticed until next
pre-flight). I know there are plenty of dark-n-stormy
night stories out there that relate various and sundry
malfunctions. Further, ads that would sell us kilobuck
engine monitors would have us believe that the true
path to flying comfort is to link as much of our
biological nervous systems to that of our machines.
Based on observations of nearly a century of aviating
behind propellers and dancing pistons, the probability
of an engine failure ruining you day is tiny compared
to all of the other things that can and do go wrong.
Check out the accident reports as to root causes . . .
engine failures are small segment of the total and of
those, I've heard of perhaps a handful of incidents
where panel mounted instrumentation MIGHT have mitigated
the outcome.
Ever fly over a large body of water? Perfectly
running engines SOUND terrible as soon as your
distance to land exceeds the gliding distance of your
airplane. May I suggest that adding gobs of system
data on the panel has a higher probability of
being a distraction and/or GENERATOR of irrational
tension than for making your flying experience more
comfortable.
As distraction and/or tension go up, your ability as
pilot goes down. If have no better way to spend $300
and hours to fabricate such a system at this stage of
your project's completion -AND- you really believe the thing
would add value to your flying experience, we can talk
about some ways to do it.
Bob . . .
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Chalmers" <David@ChalmersFamily.com>
I used a solder-cup D-type conector from the shack on my D10 - uploaded the software
and settings several times without a problem.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronnie Brown [mailto:romott@adelphia.net]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
I tried to help a friend of mine update the software in his new Dynon.
The reason he was doing the software update was that his "attitude gyro"
rolled over after about 15 minutes of flight.
He called Dynon and they said yep, they found a problem and he needed to
update his software to the latest which I downloaded and installed on my
laptop.
When we connected the laptop to the Dynon, the Dynon flashes up a black
screen and has the message "Loading" and that is all it will do. We
disconnected the laptop, repowered the Dynon and it continued to say
"loading".
He called Dynon and they said, we had this happen once before, did you use
the machined D sub connector pins, which he replied no, he used a solder cup
connector from the Shack. The factory guy says this is his problem and the
connector pins need to be replaced!
Hmmmmm, I have never heard of this in my 30 years of working with computers
and instrumentation. The connector only has power and ground - no remote
sensors are used.
Am I wrong that these pins should work?????
If their pins are so "picky", then Dynon should supply the mating connector.
THANKS!
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Routing cables around back of panel |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Neville,
I am going to guess that you don't live in the US (or maybe on
the planet earth... :) ). JB Weld is a two part, quick and dirty
epoxy. It is generally available at most auto parts stores and
places like Walmart
Here's a link to its homepage:
http://www.j-bweld.com/coldweld.html
Matt-
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford"
> <nkilford@etravel.org>
>
> Bob,
>
> Thanks for the advice, but what's the JB Weld? A regular epoxy? I
> can't seem to turn up anything on it. If I can't find a decent enough
> glue, I'll use some soft csk alum. rivets to add a few
> strategically-positioned supports before stove-enamelling. Should turn
> out alright, finish-wise.
>
> Nev
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Routing cables around back of panel
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>>
>> At 09:45 AM 7/14/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford"
>> ><nkilford@etravel.org>
>> >
>> >Hi guys,
>> >
>> >Does anyone have any suggestions for routing bundles of cables and
>> tubes around the back of the instrument panel? I'm using cable ties
>> and
> screw-down
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Canyon <steve.canyon@verizon.net>
David Chalmers wrote:
>The connector only has power and ground - no remote
>sensors are used.
---
If this is all that's connected to the unit from your computer, what
means are you expecting to carry the new file data over to the Dynon?
Steve
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Canyon <steve.canyon@verizon.net>
Ronnie Brown wrote:
>The connector only has power and ground - no remote
>sensors are used.
---
Sorry folks, quoted the wrong message before. :-(
How will the data get transferred from the laptop? Must be some other
path or this is incomplete.
Steve
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike Heinen" <mjheinen@adelphia.net>
Harbor Frieght has some volt meters priced so low...if they fit your
criteria.
----- Original Message -----
From: <315@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
> Do not Archive
> Off TOpic
>
> Anyone know where I can purchase a small digital voltmeter display
accurate
> +- .1 V range from 0 to 1 volt or 0 to 20 volt would be okay.
>
> I am putting together a Air Fuel Ratio Display with an O2 sensor to
> supplement my EGT's and better determine when I am runnung my 4.3 L V6
Lean.
> A small 1 x 2 inch 2 or 3 digit display of voltage would be great. As I
> understand it the O2 sensor will put out 0.5 v when stoichimetric
combustion
> occures.
>
> I have thought of cannibalizing my $8 Cen-Tech multimeter but the IC in
much
> larger than the display:(
>
> Thanks,
> Ned
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Ronnie -
Sounds to me like they are covering for some bad engineering of their
serial port. Bob Nuckolls recommends using the machined pins because they
are higher quality and you can get a better crimp with them. But, ...
Keep us posted on the progress. We are planning on using one for our backup
ADI.
BTW, if you have a Dynon with the magnetometer for heading, why would you
need a whiskey compass?
Cheers,
John
Message 37
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| Subject: | Dynon EFIS D10 Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
From memory when I wired that harness last week, there is a send, rcv,
and ground going from the PC serial port to the Dynon.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Canyon [mailto:steve.canyon@verizon.net]
> Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 7:18 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Dynon EFIS D10 Problem
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Canyon
> --> <steve.canyon@verizon.net>
>
> David Chalmers wrote:
> >The connector only has power and ground - no remote
> >sensors are used.
> ---
> If this is all that's connected to the unit from your computer, what
> means are you expecting to carry the new file data over to the Dynon?
>
> Steve
Message 38
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
Mark S. wrote:
Sounds like Digi-Key's price beats Pegasus by a wide margin.
<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>
Forgive me for responding to this. I try to avoid posting anything that
sounds commercial on the list. However, I would like to point out a major
difference between the Panasonic battery that Digi-Key sells and the battery
that Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies sells (my wife and I own Pegasus).
It's hard to imagine a tougher shock and vibration environment for a battery
than an open wheel formula car. The fastest line through a corner is often
over the curbing (complete with rumble strips). The suspension is so stiff
that the tire often provides the majority of the effective spring rate. The
Panasonic battery that Digi-Key sells has lead terminal posts. Batteries
with lead posts are not very reliable under this pounding. It's possible
that if every racer used very limp welding cable to connect the battery as
recommended by Bob Nuckolls, failures would be rare, but not too many racers
have read the AeroElectric Connection. A small formula car doesn't have an
alternator. The battery is charged between on-track sessions. If a post
breaks or if a connection becomes loose due to compression of the lead or
inadequate installation torque, you DNF.
The 18 Amp-Hr battery that Pegasus sells has a hard alloy terminal that is
about 0.080 thick x 0.48 wide with a clearance hole for AN3 attachment
hardware. I don't know what the terminal material is off the top of my head
but is appears to be as hard as steel with a heavy zinc plating. You can
torque the attachment hardware as you would any structural application and
the terminal post does not deform. We've had no reports of terminal failures
since switching to this design. While a lead terminal will probably give
very reliable service in an airplane, the same has not been the case for our
racing customers.
If you check the AeroElectric List archives from April 2003, you will find
mention of a broken terminal on a Panasonic battery (search for: "RG battery
heads-up").
Digi-Key is a fine company. I have purchased Panasonic batteries from them -
you can't beat the price. But Pegasus does not sell Panasonic batteries so
comparing the price is comparing apples to oranges. If we bought batteries
by the container full, we could probably lower the price considerably.
Unfortunately we don't sell as many as Digi-Key does. At Pegasus our goals
are to sell the best product for our customer's application, provide the
best customer service and to keep our prices competitive.
Sorry about the semi-commercial message, but I felt that I had to address
the reason for the price difference and to point out the difference in
terminals on the two batteries in question.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME - waiting for John Stark to ship my avionics stack
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
Message 39
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| Subject: | small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom..." <tsled@pacbell.net>
Hiya,
Here is a ultra small (1.38" x .88") 2 wire, self powered, ultra low drain,
and accurate to .01V, digital volt meter from Datel and you can buy direct.
I put one in my Helicopter wired directly to the battery showing the voltage
all the time. It is worth the $30.00.
http://store.datel.com/cgi-bin/datel.storefront/3f209f81000416c0271d0c9f8942
064d/Product/View/8076525
Tom...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Finn
Lassen
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: small digital voltmeter 0 -1 volt
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
<finnlassen@netzero.net>
http://www.jdr.com/interact/item.asp?itemno=PM-128
$9.18
Note that it needs a separate 9V battery! Battery ground is not same a
measurementr ground. Battery need to float.
315@cox.net wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
>Do not Archive
>Off TOpic
>
>Anyone know where I can purchase a small digital voltmeter display accurate
>+- .1 V range from 0 to 1 volt or 0 to 20 volt would be okay.
>
>I am putting together a Air Fuel Ratio Display with an O2 sensor to
>supplement my EGT's and better determine when I am runnung my 4.3 L V6
Lean.
>A small 1 x 2 inch 2 or 3 digit display of voltage would be great. As I
>understand it the O2 sensor will put out 0.5 v when stoichimetric
combustion
>occures.
>
>I have thought of cannibalizing my $8 Cen-Tech multimeter but the IC in
much
>larger than the display:(
>
>Thanks,
>Ned
>
>
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