Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:46 AM - Re: Sigtronics SPA-400 interface with microair radio (Gilles.Thesee)
2. 05:44 AM - Dynon Connector Problem (Ronnie Brown)
3. 08:09 AM - Fw: MicroAir - Ignition noise update (Duncan McBride)
4. 08:56 AM - Light Dimmer (John Schroeder)
5. 09:23 AM - Re: Fw: MicroAir - Ignition noise update (Ed Anderson)
6. 09:41 AM - Re: Fw: MicroAir - Ignition noise update (Duncan McBride)
7. 02:51 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 54 Msgs - 07/25/03 (Frederic Livesey)
8. 06:10 PM - Re: Light Dimmer (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 06:12 PM - Cessna-type panel light dimmer replacement? (Ronald Cox)
10. 06:34 PM - The duplicity of schematics v. electron theory (drew.schumann@us.army.mil)
11. 06:35 PM - Amp Faston tabs (rondefly)
12. 09:04 PM - Re: The duplicity of schematics v. electron theory (J. Oberst)
13. 10:47 PM - Re: The duplicity of schematics v. electron theory (drew.schumann@us.army.mil)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Sigtronics SPA-400 interface with microair radio |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
----- Message d'origine -----
De : "Ian Scott" <jabiru22@yahoo.com.au>
: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Envoy : dimanche 27 juillet 2003 08:22
Objet : AeroElectric-List: Sigtronics SPA-400 interface with microair radio
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ian Scott"
<jabiru22@yahoo.com.au>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> Do you have any pointers on this intercom with this radio? Do you have a
> cool schematic?
>
>
> I already have the radio and am thinking of the sigtronics, as I can get
> one cheap from an aircraft dismantlers (USD $100) or so.
>
> Should I do it? And can I input things like a cd player into this
> intercom?
>
> thanks
>
Ian,
You can download the SPA 400 installation and user manuals from Sigtronics
website.
I just installed an SCI S6. Piece of cake with the manual.
Hope this helps,
Gilles
Message 2
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Subject: | Dynon Connector Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
We did find the connector problem. My friend couldn't find solder cup 25
pin connector when he went to the shack so he bought the crimp pin type.
Sure enough, when he pulled the connector out to check the pins, one of the
wires pulled out. He then found a solder cup style connector at another
shack and installed it.
When he powered it up, the Dynon operated correctly and we connected my
laptop to update the software. His Dynon doesn't have have the magnetic
heading sensor since he already had a regular compass installed. Apparently
Dynon hasn't shipped many units without the compass sensor, so his unit was
showing a hard left turn which leads the attitude indicator to roll over.
The software patch update we were trying to load is supposed to fix this
problem. But alas there was a bug in the patch software and it wouldn't
load after we installed the latest software version. And since Dynon and he
are both getting ready to go to Oshkosh (me too), we decided to leave it
alone until after Oshkosh.
More info later.
Message 3
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Subject: | Fw: MicroAir - Ignition noise update |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
Bill Yamakoski and I have been working on transmission noise a while. I
have the Microair 760 installed in a Kolb Mark III with a Rotax 912. It
has the standard stator (not the external alternator) and the stock
ignition. The intercom is a portable Sigtronics two-person that has been
factory reset to the high-noise version. I had exactly the same noise
problem before I hooked up the intercom, so I don't think it is the cause.
The intercomm mic hi wire is connected to both mic hi pins on the 760, the
mic lo to the 760 mic lo, the headphone hi to the 760 headphone hi, and the
headphone wire left disconnected since the headphone and mic grounds are
connected within the intercom. A twisted wire pair runs from the PTT pin on
the 760 through to a switch on the control stick, and back to the panel
ground where the 760 is grounded.
I experience the noise with the engine running when there is no other
electrical gear running, only a Grand Rapids Engine Information System.
The symptoms are similar to Bill's, the noise is a crackly hiss and the
volume is directly related to engine rpm. I hear it only when I press the
PTT switch. At cruise and climb power the noise makes my transmission
difficult to read by other airplanes or ground receivers. At low power or
idle, there is little noise. I hear the noise in my headphones, and it
varies the same way with engine rpm. Interestingly, the noise is not
reduced when the volume control on the 760 is turned down - I get the same
noise when the volume is turned all the way down. The noise is reduced
when I turn down the volume control on the headphone. I'm flying with the
760 volume turned all the way up and the headphones down as low as I can.
I'm using shielded wire to the ignition switch and they are routed apart
from other wires.
I've tried two antennas, a dipole made from co-axial cable, and
conventional antenna with a ground plane. There is no difference in the
noise with either antenna. Reception is clear. Since the Kolb is a pusher
arrangement and the cockpit is open to the engine noise, I have put mic
muffs on the headsets and had the intercomm altered to the high-noise
version - the intercom works well. There is a higher level of ambient
noise in the Kolb and when the squelch is broken on the intercomm there is
some background engine and wind noise, but it is nothing like the rasp I
hear when I push the PTT.
I can remove the alternator output from the system and that doesn't affect
the noise. I have tried isolating the 760 from the
aircraft power altogether and using a portable battery, and the result has
been the same - no reduction in the noise. (I ran the PTT ground to the
auxiliary battery too, so it was isolated completely)
When I unplug the headset mic from the intercom and push the PTT the noise
is greatly reduced - the white noise rasp is gone and only a lower pitched
rumble is heard in the headphones. Don't know what others may hear.
With the rig isolated, it seems the mic input section is picking up RF
noise. The ignition switch leads are shielded. I just read that the
electronic tachometer lead should be shielded too. Could that be the source
of the noise?
Thanks,
Duncan McBride
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Hi Bob -
Been looking at some panel lighting pages from several of your wirebooks
and would like to try rolling my own dimmer for a confidence-builder. A few
questions about the diagram (SWB0298):
What is the wattage of the 2500 (pot), 390 and 910 ohm resistors?
Is there wattage rating for the two .68 microfarad caps?
Will the LM338K need a heat sink?
Would this be suitable for LED's?
Thanks,
John Schroeder
--
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Fw: MicroAir - Ignition noise update |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fw: MicroAir - Ignition noise update
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Duncan McBride"
<duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
>
> Bill Yamakoski and I have been working on transmission noise a while. I
> have the Microair 760 installed in a Kolb Mark III with a Rotax 912. It
> has the standard stator (not the external alternator) and the stock
> ignition. The intercom is a portable Sigtronics two-person that has been
> factory reset to the high-noise version. I had exactly the same noise
> SNIP
> With the rig isolated, it seems the mic input section is picking up RF
> noise. The ignition switch leads are shielded. I just read that the
> electronic tachometer lead should be shielded too. Could that be the
source
> of the noise?
>
>
> Thanks,
> Duncan McBride
Ducan, I had a noise problem for 4 years that frequently precluded anyone
from understanding my transmissions. Your symptomps do not sound exactly
like mine, but the results appear to be the same. I took my radio in three
times and nothing was ever found wrong. I swapped antennas, etc., etc. I
thought it might be cockpit noise level, so I insulated the cabin with foam
and uphoestry and that seem to help but did not elminate the problem.
Finally I ran across an article on Oregon Aero's web site about cockpit
noise. I fabricated a MicMuff (not just the foam cover most have) similar
to their product and for the first time in four year I can not be confident
that folks will understand my transmissions. It appears that if the noise
cancellation Electrec mic is placed in a very high noise enviornment that it
not only does not cancel the ambient cockpit noise, it actually adds to it.
I made a "MicMuff" out of some blue jean patching material (had sticky on
one side), burned a 1/8" dia hole in it over the mic opening and slipped the
foam and this fabrication over the mike. Finally, I can now be understood
for approx $0.75 of material. While this may not be your problem for approx
$ 0.75 you could elminate it as a possibility.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Fw: MicroAir - Ignition noise update |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
Hi, Ed, thanks for pitching in. Actually, I have the Oregon Aero mic muffs
on both headsets I've tried with my setup - an older David Clark H10-80 with
the Headsets, Inc. ANR upgrade, and a pair of Lightspeed XC's. The muffs
improved the intercom performance greatly, and allowed me to open the
squelch a lot more on the intercom. I recommend them highly, too. But I'm
still picking up the raspy noise when I hit the PTT, even when I put my
thumb and forefinger around the microphone and seal it off completely.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fw: MicroAir - Ignition noise update
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson"
<eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fw: MicroAir - Ignition noise update
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Duncan McBride"
> <duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
> >
> > Bill Yamakoski and I have been working on transmission noise a while.
I
> > have the Microair 760 installed in a Kolb Mark III with a Rotax 912.
It
> > has the standard stator (not the external alternator) and the stock
> > ignition. The intercom is a portable Sigtronics two-person that has
been
> > factory reset to the high-noise version. I had exactly the same noise
> > SNIP
> > With the rig isolated, it seems the mic input section is picking up RF
> > noise. The ignition switch leads are shielded. I just read that the
> > electronic tachometer lead should be shielded too. Could that be the
> source
> > of the noise?
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Duncan McBride
>
> Ducan, I had a noise problem for 4 years that frequently precluded anyone
> from understanding my transmissions. Your symptomps do not sound exactly
> like mine, but the results appear to be the same. I took my radio in
three
> times and nothing was ever found wrong. I swapped antennas, etc., etc. I
> thought it might be cockpit noise level, so I insulated the cabin with
foam
> and uphoestry and that seem to help but did not elminate the problem.
>
> Finally I ran across an article on Oregon Aero's web site about cockpit
> noise. I fabricated a MicMuff (not just the foam cover most have) similar
> to their product and for the first time in four year I can not be
confident
> that folks will understand my transmissions. It appears that if the noise
> cancellation Electrec mic is placed in a very high noise enviornment that
it
> not only does not cancel the ambient cockpit noise, it actually adds to
it.
>
> I made a "MicMuff" out of some blue jean patching material (had sticky on
> one side), burned a 1/8" dia hole in it over the mic opening and slipped
the
> foam and this fabrication over the mike. Finally, I can now be understood
> for approx $0.75 of material. While this may not be your problem for
approx
> $ 0.75 you could elminate it as a possibility.
>
> Ed Anderson
> Matthews, NC
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 54 Msgs - 07/25/03 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Frederic Livesey <fred.livesey@zetnet.co.uk>
Hi, JB Weld is available from Halfords in the UK
Regards
Fred
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Light Dimmer |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:55 AM 7/27/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
><jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
>Hi Bob -
>
>Been looking at some panel lighting pages from several of your wirebooks
>and would like to try rolling my own dimmer for a confidence-builder. A few
>questions about the diagram (SWB0298):
>
>What is the wattage of the 2500 (pot), 390 and 910 ohm resistors?
>
>Is there wattage rating for the two .68 microfarad caps?
>
>Will the LM338K need a heat sink?
The LM338K is used on BOSS HOG dimmer (5A).
Take a look at this data package for
more details on building a smaller device
with all the details on purchasing parts and
assembling.
http://216.55.140.222/temp/DimFab.pdf
>Would this be suitable for LED's?
Maybe . . . depending on how many LEDs are in series, there
is a network of resistor that can be incorporated to make
the LED behave something like the incandescent lamp
with respect to applied voltage.
>Thanks,
>
>John Schroeder
>
>--
>
>
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 9
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Subject: | Cessna-type panel light dimmer replacement? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald Cox" <racox@ix.netcom.com>
If one were to do so, not that I ever would, but if...
What would the appropriate value be for a generic replacement variable resistor
for use in an older Cessna panel light dimmer be? I'd love to use one of Bob's
dimmer setups, but it is a certified spam-can.
I recently replaced it with what was supposed to be a cross-referenced part, but
it wasn't the right value, lights only came on near full on position, and now
it's already burned out. This is an older ship ('63) with the only lights in
the overhead, so not much power. Radios, etc., each have their own dimming
circuits built-in
The value would allow me to check a supposed replacement part for the correct resistance
range. Yeah, that's it.
What resistance range do (would) I need, and linear or audio taper?
Thanks,
Ron
Message 10
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Subject: | The duplicity of schematics v. electron theory |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: drew.schumann@us.army.mil
I am the kind of guy that needs to really understand an object to be much good
at dealing with it. Therefore, I find it necessary to study fundamentals in order
to mess with electronics. So far, I've had a very shallow survey in A&P
school and am doing some in-depth study on my own prior to messing around with
electrons. In both places, we learned how electron theory "worked", with negative
flowing to positive. And also, in both places, the study material has made
the blithe statement, "But schematics work using conventional electron theory,
so they read exactly the opposite" and "it doesn't matter which way you read
schematics, as long as you are consistent."
To my, sometimes too literal mind, this is difficult to do. I just get used to
electrons entering the diode on the narrow part and exiting the wide part of
the schematic representation, and then the schematic expects me to work it exactly
the opposite. I've taught and trained people for a few years, now, and this
doesn't seem like a coherent and rational method of instruction.
So, do I just have to accept the fact that electron theory works one way, and schematics
are drawn to be read the other? Unfortunately, my mind is not set up
to accept that. Is there a "third way?"
Drew
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "rondefly" <rondefly@rtriano.com>
I am not having to much luck finding the AMP faston tabs to bolt or solder
to a brass plate for the grounding block. I have printed out the part #
41480 from the AMP site and have a picture of it but cant find it in mouser
online or catalog. can anyone help
Ron Triano
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ronald
Cox
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Cessna-type panel light dimmer replacement?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronald Cox" <racox@ix.netcom.com>
If one were to do so, not that I ever would, but if...
What would the appropriate value be for a generic replacement variable
resistor for use in an older Cessna panel light dimmer be? I'd love to use
one of Bob's dimmer setups, but it is a certified spam-can.
I recently replaced it with what was supposed to be a cross-referenced part,
but it wasn't the right value, lights only came on near full on position,
and now it's already burned out. This is an older ship ('63) with the only
lights in the overhead, so not much power. Radios, etc., each have their
own dimming circuits built-in
The value would allow me to check a supposed replacement part for the
correct resistance range. Yeah, that's it.
What resistance range do (would) I need, and linear or audio taper?
Thanks,
Ron
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: The duplicity of schematics v. electron theory |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
Think about the flow of positive charges - holes - spots where the electrons
aren't, instead of about electrons. You can't see either holes or
electrons, so no need to be hung up on electrons. If you think about
positive charges flowing, it all fits together.
Jim Oberst
----- Original Message -----
From: <drew.schumann@us.army.mil>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: The duplicity of schematics v. electron theory
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: drew.schumann@us.army.mil
>
> I am the kind of guy that needs to really understand an object to be much
good at dealing with it. Therefore, I find it necessary to study
fundamentals in order to mess with electronics. So far, I've had a very
shallow survey in A&P school and am doing some in-depth study on my own
prior to messing around with electrons. In both places, we learned how
electron theory "worked", with negative flowing to positive. And also, in
both places, the study material has made the blithe statement, "But
schematics work using conventional electron theory, so they read exactly the
opposite" and "it doesn't matter which way you read schematics, as long as
you are consistent."
>
> To my, sometimes too literal mind, this is difficult to do. I just get
used to electrons entering the diode on the narrow part and exiting the wide
part of the schematic representation, and then the schematic expects me to
work it exactly the opposite. I've taught and trained people for a few
years, now, and this doesn't seem like a coherent and rational method of
instruction.
>
> So, do I just have to accept the fact that electron theory works one way,
and schematics are drawn to be read the other? Unfortunately, my mind is
not set up to accept that. Is there a "third way?"
>
> Drew
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: The duplicity of schematics v. electron theory |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: drew.schumann@us.army.mil
Yeah, I know that in my head, but to get this straight is tough.
Drew
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: The duplicity of schematics v. electron theory
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-
> internet.com>
> Think about the flow of positive charges - holes - spots where the
> electronsaren't, instead of about electrons. You can't see either
> holes or
> electrons, so no need to be hung up on electrons. If you think about
> positive charges flowing, it all fits together.
>
> Jim Oberst
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <drew.schumann@us.army.mil>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: The duplicity of schematics v.
> electron theory
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: drew.schumann@us.army.mil
> >
> > I am the kind of guy that needs to really understand an object
> to be much
> good at dealing with it. Therefore, I find it necessary to study
> fundamentals in order to mess with electronics. So far, I've had
> a very
> shallow survey in A&P school and am doing some in-depth study on
> my own
> prior to messing around with electrons. In both places, we
> learned how
> electron theory "worked", with negative flowing to positive. And
> also, in
> both places, the study material has made the blithe statement, "But
> schematics work using conventional electron theory, so they read
> exactly the
> opposite" and "it doesn't matter which way you read schematics, as
> long as
> you are consistent."
> >
> > To my, sometimes too literal mind, this is difficult to do. I
> just get
> used to electrons entering the diode on the narrow part and
> exiting the wide
> part of the schematic representation, and then the schematic
> expects me to
> work it exactly the opposite. I've taught and trained people for
> a few
> years, now, and this doesn't seem like a coherent and rational
> method of
> instruction.
> >
> > So, do I just have to accept the fact that electron theory works
> one way,
> and schematics are drawn to be read the other? Unfortunately, my
> mind is
> not set up to accept that. Is there a "third way?"
> >
> > Drew
> >
> >
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
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