Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:08 AM - Re: Re: LED landing lights (John Mireley)
2. 11:16 AM - Re: LED Landing Lights (Eric M. Jones)
3. 11:35 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 07/28/03 (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
4. 04:11 PM - Fw: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle (Dan Checkoway)
5. 05:23 PM - Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle (Norman and Gretchen Howell)
6. 06:53 PM - Re: Fw: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 07:32 PM - Re: Re: LED Landing Lights (David Carter)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: LED landing lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Mireley <mireley@msu.edu>
Jerzy Krasinski wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski@direcway.com>
>
> If you wait a little you will have a chance to get nice factory made
> LED headlights. A japanese company demonstrated such headlights last
> year on a wide gap semiconductor conference in Achen, Germany. I forgot
> the name of the company but it was probably Nichia. They did not use
> thousands of regular low power LEDs. They used a few newly developed
> high power and high efficiency heatsink mounted LEDs.
> Jerzy
>
Could this be the source of the LEDs you're speaking of?
http://www.luxeonstar.com/luxeon-flood.html
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: LED Landing Lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
A regular 55W Wagner automotive sealed beam halogen is 1000 lumens.
Cost....a few bucks.
The Luxeons are fabulous but pricey. For example a Luxeon Star is about 100
lumens and $40. (1000 lumens for $400).
The led landing light I envision would be 380 leds at 0.20 each or $76 plus
the printed circuit board ($24 maybe) and would be roughly equivalent to the
round 55W Wagner. MAYBE.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
"I only regret my economies."
-Reynolds Price
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 07/28/03 |
07/29/2003 02:34:50 PM,
Serialize complete at 07/29/2003 02:34:50 PM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Mike said:
If you are going with vacuum, buy
a US made. I personally think that in 5 years nobody will be putting
vacuum instruments in new airframes (RC Allen & SigmaTek, are you
listening?). They'll go the way of the slide-rule, fascinating
mechanical objects for sure, but completely obsolete.
Stand by for a very interesting announcement from the vacuum guys at OSH
this week.
How about a TSO'd intertial gizmo to replace the full 6 pack.
Obviously more to follow
Ira N224XS (in paint shop)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fw: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I just figured I'd forward this here to stir things up... 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034@lafn.org>
Subject: Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle
> John,
>
> Your problem is caused by a loose connection, either a poor crimp or
> poor contact on the push-on connector. My recommendation is to get rid
> of the push-on's and replace them with screw connectors. I know, that
> means replacing switches etc. but, push-on's don't have a real good
> reputation. And, even though you used the correct crimping tool, the
> crimps could still be too loose.
> Regardless of what anyone says, I like solder - of course, I also like
> tailwheels and primer!
>
> Dave Bristol
> EAA Technical Counselor
>
>
> John Allen wrote:
>
> >I had a problem with one of the wires in my RV and I'm looking for ideas.
The wire in question is the +12v one that feeds the strobe power supply and
runs from the fuse block to the panel switch. From the switch another wire
goes directly to a screw-on terminal block below the seat and then on to the
power supply in the left wingtip. The power supply is grounded to the
airframe.
> >
> >I noticed some time ago that the power strobes would only seem to run
when the alternator was on (i.e above 12v) The other day I noticed it
wasn't running at all. I did notice that both AMP connectors on the switch
had some brown discoloration on the blue sleeve. I also noticed that there
was brown discoloration on the connector at the fuse panel. I replaced the
wire from the fuse block to the switch and the circuit began working
correctly. I then replaced the switch with one of higher quality. I also
moved the fuse and wire to another empty slot on the fuse block
> >
> >The power supply is rated at 7amps. The wire is all 16AWG. The fuse is
10A. The connectors are all AMP PIDG .25" push-on assembled with the
correct crimping tool. I did send the Power Supply to Whelen to have it
checked out
> >
> >The brown discoloration tells me there was excessive heat in the wire at
the AMP connectors, yet the components all seem to be within tolerance. The
heat buildup must have been significant enough to fail the wire over time,
which causes me a bit of concern. The fact that the browning occured on
both wires at the connector (i.e. on two separate wires) tells me the
problem was not specific to my assembly technique.
> >Since there was discoloring of the connector at the fuse block, I am lead
to believe the problem wasn't just the switch.
> >
> >One other piece of information. The failed wiring would give me an
no-load indication of 12.5 volts on the VOM. However when the wire was put
under load (i.e. attached to the strobe power supply) the voltage at the
conection of the +12v wire and the power supply was only 7 volts. Therefore
the failure of the wire was not total.
> >
> >I'm scratching my head on this one. I replaced the wire with another one
just like it, and am watching it closely.
> >
> >Any ideas?
> >
> >John Allen
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >socal-rvlist-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Free shipping on all inkjet cartridge & refill kit orders to US & Canada.
Low prices up to 80% off. We have your brand: HP, Epson, Lexmark & more.
> http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5510
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/GHXcIA/n.WGAA/ySSFAA/SyTolB/TM
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> socal-rvlist-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Norman and Gretchen Howell" <testwest@earthlink.net>
Hi Dave and everyone
May I suggest, Dave, you go to the Aeroelectric Connection web site
www.aeroelectric.com and read it from stem to stern.
For everyone else, I'll suggest the statements made by Dave, below,
regarding Fast-On connectors are not supported by physics, or by current
industry practice. I am sure you'll find Fast-On connectors on current
production light airplanes by Cessna, Raytheon, etc.
Soldering connectors is highly process sensitive. A PIDG crimp in a proper
tool is not.
A screwed connection is a vibration-sensitive failure point, and increases
parts count. The more parts, the less reliable the overall system.
Dave wrote "Regardless of what anyone says, I like solder...". This is,
unfortunately, an emotional argument used as a final straw against any
logical rebuttal to a stated position. Any guy on this list who is married
knows the futility of trying to counter an emotional argument with a logical
one. A fellow has a right to any opinion he wants, and that's fine. NO ONE
has the right to pass on their emotionally-derived position as a basis for
engineering advice of any sort.
John, I'd say the advice you received below is worth exactly what you paid
for it. For everyone else, we all owe it to one another to provide solid,
factual information backed up by repeatable experiments and tests, not
hearsay and old wive's tales. The aeroelectric list on the Matronics list
server provides the some of the most solid, factual information on the net
for builders of experimental aircraft.
Some portion of John's wiring has a very high resistance, perhaps an
internal switch failure or some other problem. I'd suggest to John to
measure the resistance of the removed/discolored wiring/switch between the
fuse block and the power supply, and compare that to the replaced wiring and
switch. Let us know what you find.
This is not meant to be a flame, and if anyone is offended, I'm sorry. I am
also sorry to burden everyone with this excessive SIG, below, but when I
have to write an e-mail like this, sometimes it helps.
Norman Howell
EAA Flight Advisor #1, and
Experimental Test Pilot
The Boeing Company
----Original Message-----
From: Dave Bristol [mailto:bj034@lafn.org]
Subject: Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle
John,
Your problem is caused by a loose connection, either a poor crimp or
poor contact on the push-on connector. My recommendation is to get rid
of the push-on's and replace them with screw connectors. I know, that
means replacing switches etc. but, push-on's don't have a real good
reputation. And, even though you used the correct crimping tool, the
crimps could still be too loose.
Regardless of what anyone says, I like solder - of course, I also like
tailwheels and primer!
Dave Bristol
EAA Technical Counselor
<snip>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:09 PM 7/29/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I just figured I'd forward this here to stir things up... 8-)
>
>)_( Dan
Dan, if you would forward this back to John, I'd appreciate it.
I would like to have his crimp tool, exemplar samples of any un-used
PIDG terminals in question, the overheated terminals still on "failed"
wires, overheated switch and fuseblock. I'd like to get to the
bottom of his problem but it will require some detailed analysis.
I'll replace any and all components he sends me with new ones.
If the tool is bad or not appropriate to the task, I'll make
him a hell-of-a-deal on a new one.
If there was but one joint involved, a missed opportunity
for adequate assembly is suspect. A series of similar failures,
suggests a broader cause . . .
Have him contact me directly if he's interested and we'll work
out details for the exchange. I'll publish findings here and
on the website.
Bob . . .
> > >I had a problem with one of the wires in my RV and I'm looking for ideas.
>The wire in question is the +12v one that feeds the strobe power supply and
>runs from the fuse block to the panel switch. From the switch another wire
>goes directly to a screw-on terminal block below the seat and then on to the
>power supply in the left wingtip. The power supply is grounded to the
>airframe.
> > >
> > >I noticed some time ago that the power strobes would only seem to run
>when the alternator was on (i.e above 12v) The other day I noticed it
>wasn't running at all. I did notice that both AMP connectors on the switch
>had some brown discoloration on the blue sleeve. I also noticed that there
>was brown discoloration on the connector at the fuse panel. I replaced the
>wire from the fuse block to the switch and the circuit began working
>correctly. I then replaced the switch with one of higher quality. I also
>moved the fuse and wire to another empty slot on the fuse block
> > >
> > >The power supply is rated at 7amps. The wire is all 16AWG. The fuse is
>10A. The connectors are all AMP PIDG .25" push-on assembled with the
>correct crimping tool. I did send the Power Supply to Whelen to have it
>checked out
> > >
> > >The brown discoloration tells me there was excessive heat in the wire at
>the AMP connectors, yet the components all seem to be within tolerance. The
>heat buildup must have been significant enough to fail the wire over time,
>which causes me a bit of concern. The fact that the browning occured on
>both wires at the connector (i.e. on two separate wires) tells me the
>problem was not specific to my assembly technique.
> > >Since there was discoloring of the connector at the fuse block, I am lead
>to believe the problem wasn't just the switch.
> > >
> > >One other piece of information. The failed wiring would give me an
>no-load indication of 12.5 volts on the VOM. However when the wire was put
>under load (i.e. attached to the strobe power supply) the voltage at the
>conection of the +12v wire and the power supply was only 7 volts. Therefore
>the failure of the wire was not total.
> > >
> > >I'm scratching my head on this one. I replaced the wire with another one
>just like it, and am watching it closely.
> > >
> > >Any ideas?
> > >
> > >John Allen
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: LED Landing Lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Eric,
The only significant attraction of an "LED landing light" for me is - lower
current draw.
- Can you give an estimated current draw for the 55W sealed beam
halogen bulb and for the 380 LEDs and circuit board?
Life of a halogen vs LEDs is not a "tie breaker" - as halogen is so much
better than incandescant that I don't care for more life, given the low
price. The extra life of LEDs is beyond my lifespan so is no big selling
point.
- But, I want to go IFR at night on a 35amp alternator, with as no
"discharge" on the loadmeter/ammeter when I turn on the landing light at end
of the flight - or, if going to be drawing down the battery for 3 minutes,
then want as little "draw" on the battery as I can get.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED Landing Lights
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
>
> A regular 55W Wagner automotive sealed beam halogen is 1000 lumens.
> Cost....a few bucks.
>
> The Luxeons are fabulous but pricey. For example a Luxeon Star is about
100
> lumens and $40. (1000 lumens for $400).
> The led landing light I envision would be 380 leds at 0.20 each or $76
plus
> the printed circuit board ($24 maybe) and would be roughly equivalent to
the
> round 55W Wagner. MAYBE.
>
> Regards,
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge MA 01550-2705
> Phone (508) 764-2072
> Email: emjones@charter.net
>
> "I only regret my economies."
> -Reynolds Price
>
>
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