Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:57 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest:Led landing lights / other lights also (Alexander Balic)
2. 07:09 AM - Led Landing lights (Eric M. Jones)
3. 09:20 AM - ARC RT-359A transponder manual? ()
4. 10:07 AM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest:Led landing lights / other lights also ()
5. 10:07 AM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest:Led landing lights / other lights also ()
6. 12:01 PM - more on LED Landing Lights (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
7. 12:03 PM - Back to audio isolator project (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
8. 05:18 PM - Re: Back to audio isolator project (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:56 PM - Back Up Battery (Gabe A Ferrer)
10. 08:10 PM - Re: Back Up Battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 08:48 PM - Re: Back Up Battery (Ed Anderson)
12. 09:04 PM - Backup Electrical Power (Dan Checkoway)
13. 09:44 PM - Re: Backup Electrical Power (Robert McCallum)
14. 10:58 PM - SDK-1 dimmer kit for EL ??? (Amit Dagan)
15. 11:22 PM - Re: Backup Electrical Power (Jim Jewell)
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Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-List Digest:Led landing lights / other |
lights also
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Alexander Balic <alex157@direcway.com>
The one thing that you need to keep in mind about the LED's is that they put
out light in a very narrow cone- so for a landing light, maybe a 15 or 20
degree cone will be acceptable, but for other uses (position) it may not- I
was looking at making some LED position lights, but as I have come to find-
to get the required hemispherical coverage means about 20 or 30 for each
color on each side- still possible of course, but a lot more work......
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
AeroElectric-List Digest Server
Subject: AeroElectric-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 07/29/03
*
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Total Messages Posted Tue 07/29/03: 7
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:08 AM - Re: Re: LED landing lights (John Mireley)
2. 11:16 AM - Re: LED Landing Lights (Eric M. Jones)
3. 11:35 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 07/28/03
(irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
4. 04:11 PM - Fw: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle (Dan Checkoway)
5. 05:23 PM - Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle (Norman and Gretchen
Howell)
6. 06:53 PM - Re: Fw: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle (Robert L. Nuckolls,
III)
7. 07:32 PM - Re: Re: LED Landing Lights (David Carter)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 05:08:33 AM PST US
From: John Mireley <mireley@msu.edu>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED landing lights
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Mireley <mireley@msu.edu>
Jerzy Krasinski wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski
<krasinski@direcway.com>
>
> If you wait a little you will have a chance to get nice factory made
> LED headlights. A japanese company demonstrated such headlights last
> year on a wide gap semiconductor conference in Achen, Germany. I forgot
> the name of the company but it was probably Nichia. They did not use
> thousands of regular low power LEDs. They used a few newly developed
> high power and high efficiency heatsink mounted LEDs.
> Jerzy
>
Could this be the source of the LEDs you're speaking of?
http://www.luxeonstar.com/luxeon-flood.html
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 11:16:27 AM PST US
From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED Landing Lights
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
A regular 55W Wagner automotive sealed beam halogen is 1000 lumens.
Cost....a few bucks.
The Luxeons are fabulous but pricey. For example a Luxeon Star is about 100
lumens and $40. (1000 lumens for $400).
The led landing light I envision would be 380 leds at 0.20 each or $76 plus
the printed circuit board ($24 maybe) and would be roughly equivalent to the
round 55W Wagner. MAYBE.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
"I only regret my economies."
-Reynolds Price
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
Time: 11:35:04 AM PST US
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 07/28/03
From: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
07/29/2003 02:34:50 PM,
Serialize complete at 07/29/2003 02:34:50 PM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Mike said:
If you are going with vacuum, buy
a US made. I personally think that in 5 years nobody will be putting
vacuum instruments in new airframes (RC Allen & SigmaTek, are you
listening?). They'll go the way of the slide-rule, fascinating
mechanical objects for sure, but completely obsolete.
Stand by for a very interesting announcement from the vacuum guys at OSH
this week.
How about a TSO'd intertial gizmo to replace the full 6 pack.
Obviously more to follow
Ira N224XS (in paint shop)
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
Time: 04:11:36 PM PST US
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fw: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I just figured I'd forward this here to stir things up... 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034@lafn.org>
Subject: Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle
> John,
>
> Your problem is caused by a loose connection, either a poor crimp or
> poor contact on the push-on connector. My recommendation is to get rid
> of the push-on's and replace them with screw connectors. I know, that
> means replacing switches etc. but, push-on's don't have a real good
> reputation. And, even though you used the correct crimping tool, the
> crimps could still be too loose.
> Regardless of what anyone says, I like solder - of course, I also like
> tailwheels and primer!
>
> Dave Bristol
> EAA Technical Counselor
>
>
> John Allen wrote:
>
> >I had a problem with one of the wires in my RV and I'm looking for ideas.
The wire in question is the +12v one that feeds the strobe power supply and
runs from the fuse block to the panel switch. From the switch another wire
goes directly to a screw-on terminal block below the seat and then on to the
power supply in the left wingtip. The power supply is grounded to the
airframe.
> >
> >I noticed some time ago that the power strobes would only seem to run
when the alternator was on (i.e above 12v) The other day I noticed it
wasn't running at all. I did notice that both AMP connectors on the switch
had some brown discoloration on the blue sleeve. I also noticed that there
was brown discoloration on the connector at the fuse panel. I replaced the
wire from the fuse block to the switch and the circuit began working
correctly. I then replaced the switch with one of higher quality. I also
moved the fuse and wire to another empty slot on the fuse block
> >
> >The power supply is rated at 7amps. The wire is all 16AWG. The fuse is
10A. The connectors are all AMP PIDG .25" push-on assembled with the
correct crimping tool. I did send the Power Supply to Whelen to have it
checked out
> >
> >The brown discoloration tells me there was excessive heat in the wire at
the AMP connectors, yet the components all seem to be within tolerance. The
heat buildup must have been significant enough to fail the wire over time,
which causes me a bit of concern. The fact that the browning occured on
both wires at the connector (i.e. on two separate wires) tells me the
problem was not specific to my assembly technique.
> >Since there was discoloring of the connector at the fuse block, I am lead
to believe the problem wasn't just the switch.
> >
> >One other piece of information. The failed wiring would give me an
no-load indication of 12.5 volts on the VOM. However when the wire was put
under load (i.e. attached to the strobe power supply) the voltage at the
conection of the +12v wire and the power supply was only 7 volts. Therefore
the failure of the wire was not total.
> >
> >I'm scratching my head on this one. I replaced the wire with another one
just like it, and am watching it closely.
> >
> >Any ideas?
> >
> >John Allen
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >socal-rvlist-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Free shipping on all inkjet cartridge & refill kit orders to US & Canada.
Low prices up to 80% off. We have your brand: HP, Epson, Lexmark & more.
> http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5510
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/GHXcIA/n.WGAA/ySSFAA/SyTolB/TM
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> socal-rvlist-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
Time: 05:23:38 PM PST US
From: "Norman and Gretchen Howell" <testwest@earthlink.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Norman and Gretchen Howell"
<testwest@earthlink.net>
Hi Dave and everyone
May I suggest, Dave, you go to the Aeroelectric Connection web site
www.aeroelectric.com and read it from stem to stern.
For everyone else, I'll suggest the statements made by Dave, below,
regarding Fast-On connectors are not supported by physics, or by current
industry practice. I am sure you'll find Fast-On connectors on current
production light airplanes by Cessna, Raytheon, etc.
Soldering connectors is highly process sensitive. A PIDG crimp in a proper
tool is not.
A screwed connection is a vibration-sensitive failure point, and increases
parts count. The more parts, the less reliable the overall system.
Dave wrote "Regardless of what anyone says, I like solder...". This is,
unfortunately, an emotional argument used as a final straw against any
logical rebuttal to a stated position. Any guy on this list who is married
knows the futility of trying to counter an emotional argument with a logical
one. A fellow has a right to any opinion he wants, and that's fine. NO ONE
has the right to pass on their emotionally-derived position as a basis for
engineering advice of any sort.
John, I'd say the advice you received below is worth exactly what you paid
for it. For everyone else, we all owe it to one another to provide solid,
factual information backed up by repeatable experiments and tests, not
hearsay and old wive's tales. The aeroelectric list on the Matronics list
server provides the some of the most solid, factual information on the net
for builders of experimental aircraft.
Some portion of John's wiring has a very high resistance, perhaps an
internal switch failure or some other problem. I'd suggest to John to
measure the resistance of the removed/discolored wiring/switch between the
fuse block and the power supply, and compare that to the replaced wiring and
switch. Let us know what you find.
This is not meant to be a flame, and if anyone is offended, I'm sorry. I am
also sorry to burden everyone with this excessive SIG, below, but when I
have to write an e-mail like this, sometimes it helps.
Norman Howell
EAA Flight Advisor #1, and
Experimental Test Pilot
The Boeing Company
----Original Message-----
From: Dave Bristol [mailto:bj034@lafn.org]
Subject: Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle
John,
Your problem is caused by a loose connection, either a poor crimp or
poor contact on the push-on connector. My recommendation is to get rid
of the push-on's and replace them with screw connectors. I know, that
means replacing switches etc. but, push-on's don't have a real good
reputation. And, even though you used the correct crimping tool, the
crimps could still be too loose.
Regardless of what anyone says, I like solder - of course, I also like
tailwheels and primer!
Dave Bristol
EAA Technical Counselor
<snip>
________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
Time: 06:53:18 PM PST US
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fw: [SoCAL-RVlist] Wire puzzle
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:09 PM 7/29/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I just figured I'd forward this here to stir things up... 8-)
>
>)_( Dan
Dan, if you would forward this back to John, I'd appreciate it.
I would like to have his crimp tool, exemplar samples of any un-used
PIDG terminals in question, the overheated terminals still on "failed"
wires, overheated switch and fuseblock. I'd like to get to the
bottom of his problem but it will require some detailed analysis.
I'll replace any and all components he sends me with new ones.
If the tool is bad or not appropriate to the task, I'll make
him a hell-of-a-deal on a new one.
If there was but one joint involved, a missed opportunity
for adequate assembly is suspect. A series of similar failures,
suggests a broader cause . . .
Have him contact me directly if he's interested and we'll work
out details for the exchange. I'll publish findings here and
on the website.
Bob . . .
> > >I had a problem with one of the wires in my RV and I'm looking for
ideas.
>The wire in question is the +12v one that feeds the strobe power supply and
>runs from the fuse block to the panel switch. From the switch another wire
>goes directly to a screw-on terminal block below the seat and then on to
the
>power supply in the left wingtip. The power supply is grounded to the
>airframe.
> > >
> > >I noticed some time ago that the power strobes would only seem to run
>when the alternator was on (i.e above 12v) The other day I noticed it
>wasn't running at all. I did notice that both AMP connectors on the switch
>had some brown discoloration on the blue sleeve. I also noticed that there
>was brown discoloration on the connector at the fuse panel. I replaced the
>wire from the fuse block to the switch and the circuit began working
>correctly. I then replaced the switch with one of higher quality. I also
>moved the fuse and wire to another empty slot on the fuse block
> > >
> > >The power supply is rated at 7amps. The wire is all 16AWG. The fuse
is
>10A. The connectors are all AMP PIDG .25" push-on assembled with the
>correct crimping tool. I did send the Power Supply to Whelen to have it
>checked out
> > >
> > >The brown discoloration tells me there was excessive heat in the wire
at
>the AMP connectors, yet the components all seem to be within tolerance. The
>heat buildup must have been significant enough to fail the wire over time,
>which causes me a bit of concern. The fact that the browning occured on
>both wires at the connector (i.e. on two separate wires) tells me the
>problem was not specific to my assembly technique.
> > >Since there was discoloring of the connector at the fuse block, I am
lead
>to believe the problem wasn't just the switch.
> > >
> > >One other piece of information. The failed wiring would give me an
>no-load indication of 12.5 volts on the VOM. However when the wire was put
>under load (i.e. attached to the strobe power supply) the voltage at the
>conection of the +12v wire and the power supply was only 7 volts.
Therefore
>the failure of the wire was not total.
> > >
> > >I'm scratching my head on this one. I replaced the wire with another
one
>just like it, and am watching it closely.
> > >
> > >Any ideas?
> > >
> > >John Allen
________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
Time: 07:32:57 PM PST US
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED Landing Lights
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
<dcarter@datarecall.net>
Eric,
The only significant attraction of an "LED landing light" for me is - lower
current draw.
- Can you give an estimated current draw for the 55W sealed beam
halogen bulb and for the 380 LEDs and circuit board?
Life of a halogen vs LEDs is not a "tie breaker" - as halogen is so much
better than incandescant that I don't care for more life, given the low
price. The extra life of LEDs is beyond my lifespan so is no big selling
point.
- But, I want to go IFR at night on a 35amp alternator, with as no
"discharge" on the loadmeter/ammeter when I turn on the landing light at end
of the flight - or, if going to be drawing down the battery for 3 minutes,
then want as little "draw" on the battery as I can get.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: LED Landing Lights
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
>
> A regular 55W Wagner automotive sealed beam halogen is 1000 lumens.
> Cost....a few bucks.
>
> The Luxeons are fabulous but pricey. For example a Luxeon Star is about
100
> lumens and $40. (1000 lumens for $400).
> The led landing light I envision would be 380 leds at 0.20 each or $76
plus
> the printed circuit board ($24 maybe) and would be roughly equivalent to
the
> round 55W Wagner. MAYBE.
>
> Regards,
> Eric M. Jones
> www.PerihelionDesign.com
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge MA 01550-2705
> Phone (508) 764-2072
> Email: emjones@charter.net
>
> "I only regret my economies."
> -Reynolds Price
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Led Landing lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
In the halcyon days of the RB-36 the largest aerial recon camera ever built
took night photos from high altitude using the largest electronic flashtube
ever built. The bomb-bays were full of high voltage capacitors and power
supplies. Someone decided using a few really big magnesium flares was
better. So high technology is often not the better solution.
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
<dcarter@datarecall.net>
>Eric,
>The only significant attraction of an "LED landing light" for me is >lower
current draw.
There are lots of solutions that would provide lower current draw that would
be very unsatisfactory.
>Can you give an estimated current draw for the 55W sealed beam >halogen
bulb and for the 380 LEDs and circuit board?
About the same. The leds, however are rapidly taking the lead. In a few
years there will be no contest at all. White leds are far less efficient
than the other colors. Weight is hardly an issue--A Wagner 55W lamp weigh 9
ounces. But it lasts 50 hours or so,
not 50 thousand hours.
>Life of a halogen vs LEDs is not a "tie breaker" - as halogen is so >much
better than incandescent that I don't care for more life, >given the low
price. The extra life of LEDs is beyond my lifespan >so is no big selling
point.
Many builders want the reliability and extremely long lifetime of leds
(essentially permanent!). Leds also do very well in high-vibration
environments.
>But, I want to go IFR at night on a 35amp alternator, with as >[little]
"discharge" on the loadmeter/ammeter when I turn on the >landing light at
end of the flight - or, if going to be drawing >down the battery for 3
minutes, then want as little "draw" on the >battery as I can get.
>David Carter
Thanks for the comment Dave.
A lot of what is happening in OBAM aircraft is not very scientific. There
are always tradeoffs, too. My technologic style is not "early-adopter". My
computer is usually 5 years old and I don't have a PDA or cellphone. But I
have replaced a lot of filament lamps in every sort of vehicle. And more
than once that burned-out rear white airplane tail-light has stopped an
otherwise enjoyable evening flight.
I don't believe an LED landing light is a must-have. But in several years it
will be the only reasonable choice. And filament lamps will be sold in
antique parts stores along with carburetors, breaker-point distributors,
relays and vacuum tubes. And that's okay.
Here's a bunch of good articles on the subject.
http://www.lumileds.com/pdfs/techpaperspres/
Enjoy!
Message 3
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Subject: | ARC RT-359A transponder manual? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <kkinney@fuse.net>
Does anyone have access to an ARC RT-359A transponder manual I could borrow?
SigmaTek (who owns ARC) wants $125 for a copy. They generously knocked off 40%,
but even $75 seems a bit much for a manual that hasn't changed in the last 20
years.
Regards,
Kevin Kinney
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: RE: AeroElectric-List Digest:Led landing lights |
/ other lights also
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <mjheinen@adelphia.net>
I modified one inspection plate under each wing of my Glastar to accept a reflector
and three each 20 degree 5mm 9000mcd white led
lights. They have plenty of light for under the wing camping and you could leave
them on for a month or two and still be able to crank the engine. I left all
6 led lights on for 6 weeks hooked up to one of those small rechargable portable
battery jumpers used to jump start a car. They were still just as bright and
had about 1/4 of the charge left in the battery. The way I built them they
would fit in the inspection plate but if I ever wanted to remove them they are
interchangable with the regular inspection plate.
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: RE: AeroElectric-List Digest:Led landing lights |
/ other lights also
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <mjheinen@adelphia.net>
I modified one inspection plate under each wing of my Glastar to accept a reflector
and three each 20 degree 5mm 9000mcd white led
lights. They have plenty of light for under the wing camping and you could leave
them on for a month or two and still be able to crank the engine. I left all
6 led lights on for 6 weeks hooked up to one of those small rechargable portable
battery jumpers used to jump start a car. They were still just as bright and
had about 1/4 of the charge left in the battery. The way I built them they
would fit in the inspection plate but if I ever wanted to remove them they are
interchangable with the regular inspection plate.
Message 6
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|
Subject: | more on LED Landing Lights |
07/30/2003 03:00:28 PM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
The expected draw of a standard
100 W PAR incandescent landing light is about 9 amps
55 W halogen would be about 5 amps but may not have the same focused beam
density of photons
An LED lamp (hypothetical at this point, and still requiring improved
emitter efficiency) might draw 1-2 amps.
Ira N224XS
Message 7
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Subject: | Back to audio isolator project |
07/30/2003 03:03:50 PM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Hi Bob,
Are the prebuilt isolators nearly ready for purchase?
I should be out of the paint shop and into the upolsterer next week.
I'd like to purchase as soon as you are ready.
Thanks,
Ira N224XS
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Back to audio isolator project |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:03 PM 7/30/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
>
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>Are the prebuilt isolators nearly ready for purchase?
>I should be out of the paint shop and into the upolsterer next week.
>I'd like to purchase as soon as you are ready.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ira N224XS
I'm not planning on offering any assembled beyond
the prototype which IS still available at $100.00.
You may purchase it if you wish.
I do offer boards for assembling the amplifier along
with detailed data package for assembly which is
presently downloadable from my website at:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/Audio_Prelim.pdf
Bare boards are $20 each and can be ordered
at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
Bob . . .
Message 9
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
Bob (or anyone else):
Which Z drawing could I use for a Mazda rotary engine, single alternator, dual
battery application.
I'm helping a friend, who is building an RV9A, with his electrical system work.
Any and all comments welcome.
Thanks
Gabe A Ferrer
Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
RV6 N2GX 24 Hours
South Florida
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Back Up Battery |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:53 PM 7/30/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer"
><ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
>
>Bob (or anyone else):
>Which Z drawing could I use for a Mazda rotary engine, single alternator,
>dual battery application.
>I'm helping a friend, who is building an RV9A, with his electrical system
>work.
>Any and all comments welcome.
>Thanks
>
>Gabe A Ferrer
>Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
>Cell: 561 758 8894
>RV6 N2GX 24 Hours
>South Florida
Z-11 would get you started, Z-30 adds a second battery.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Back Up Battery |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer"
> ><ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
> >
> >Bob (or anyone else):
> >Which Z drawing could I use for a Mazda rotary engine, single alternator,
> >dual battery application.
> >I'm helping a friend, who is building an RV9A, with his electrical system
> >work.
> >Any and all comments welcome.
> >Thanks
> >
> >Gabe A Ferrer
> >Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
> >Cell: 561 758 8894
> >RV6 N2GX 24 Hours
> >South Florida
Hey Gabe,
That friend of yours building an RV-9 with a rotary wouldn't happen to
be Bernie Kerr would it? Can't be too many folks building an RV-9 and
sticking a rotary in it in South Florida.
I'm a friend of Bernie.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW 200+ Rotary Hours
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
Message 12
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Subject: | Backup Electrical Power |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I have an idea for a backup electrical system for my RV-7...it involves
having about 934 lemons onboard...
http://www.checkoway.com/lemon_battery.html
What do you think?
)_( Dan
Just kidding...DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Backup Electrical Power |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I have an idea for a backup electrical system for my RV-7...it involves
>having about 934 lemons onboard...
>
>http://www.checkoway.com/lemon_battery.html
>
>What do you think?
>
Looks like a great idea Dan. Just make sure to keep the lemons fresh.
I especially liked the photo record of the experiment. Makes understanding
the path of those little electron guys much easier.
Bob McC
DO NOT ARCHIVE -------PLEASE !!!!!!!!
Message 14
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Subject: | SDK-1 dimmer kit for EL ??? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
Q:
I have an automotive aftermarket electro-luminescense kit that plugs into
the 12v cigarette lighter socket, and you stick the 16" EL strips where ever
you like in your car (double sided sticky tape included).
Ofcourse I like the price (~$30 at GIJoes) for a panel light system, and I
will install this on the underside of the glare shield.
I was wondering, other than controlling the frequency in the EL converter,
if I used one of the dimmers in your sdk-1 kit,in series before the power
supply to the EL converter, would that dim the light ?
The EL kit takes 12v, 60milliAmps (0.72Watts).
Thanks,
Amit.
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Backup Electrical Power |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hey Dan,
Looks OK with me, that is as long as one of them lemons is not the engine.
Just how much juice will the proposed rig put out?
I figure you'll likely end up in the pits though.
If it don't work? You could always an set up a lemon aid stand to help
recover the experimental development costs. :0) !
Now that's what I call mental, ER,.. I mean experimental.
Hot damn! that's the best laugh of the week!
Thanks Dan
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Backup Electrical Power
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I have an idea for a backup electrical system for my RV-7...it involves
> having about 934 lemons onboard...
>
> http://www.checkoway.com/lemon_battery.html
>
> What do you think?
>
> )_( Dan
> Just kidding...
>
>
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