Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:12 AM - Two Voltage Inputs on JPI EDM900 (MikeEasley@aol.com)
2. 05:22 AM - Re: Battery Cable (Charlie Kuss)
3. 06:48 AM - Re: Battery Cable (Eric M. Jones)
4. 10:20 AM - Re: Analog to digital converter (David.vonLinsowe)
5. 11:21 AM - Re: Re: Battery Cable (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 11:23 AM - Re: Battery (Welding) cable (Treff, Arthur)
7. 12:38 PM - Battery Cable (Eric M. Jones)
8. 01:22 PM - Re: Battery voltage on start (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 02:05 PM - Re: Analog to digital converter (Jim Jewell)
10. 02:38 PM - Re: EFIS (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 02:48 PM - Re: New FAA AC On Amateur Built Aircraft (glong2)
12. 05:28 PM - Relying on non-certified EFIS in IFR (Dan O'Brien)
13. 08:03 PM - Re: Analog to digital converter (Dave von Linsowe)
14. 08:12 PM - Re: New FAA AC On Amateur Built Aircraft (Dave von Linsowe)
15. 08:17 PM - (no subject) (Speedy11@aol.com)
16. 08:42 PM - Re: New FAA AC On Amateur Built Aircraft (William)
17. 09:40 PM - Re: Battery voltage on start (Dave Grosvenor)
18. 10:24 PM - soldering iron wattage (drew.schumann@us.army.mil)
19. 11:41 PM - Re: soldering iron wattage (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Two Voltage Inputs on JPI EDM900 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: MikeEasley@aol.com
Robert,
JPI just told me that the next software update for the EDM900 will allow for
a second voltage input so you can monitor both busses. Ask and you shall
receive!
Mike Easley
Lancair ES
Colorado Springs
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Hi Eric,
I am interested in this product. Could you give us some more info? What type of
insulation does this wire have? What is the outside diameter of the 0/1 wire?
What are the "specs" on the wire's insulation? What type of terminals are recommended?
Is the wire "tinned"?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A cockpit systems stuff
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
>I still intend to sell Copper Clad Aluminum but I have seen little interest. I
would hate to get stuck with the mile of this that I have to buy. Anyone interested?
Details on my website.
>
>Regards,
>Eric M. Jones
>www.PerihelionDesign.com
>113 Brentwood Drive
>Southbridge MA 01550-2705
>Phone (508) 764-2072
>Email: emjones@charter.net
>
>"I'm not going to buy my kids an encyclopedia. Let them walk to school like I
did."
> --Yogi Berra
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>Hi Eric,
>I am interested in this product. Could you give us some more info? What
type of
>insulation does this wire have? What is the outside diameter of the 0/1
wire?
>What are the "specs" on the wire's insulation? What type of terminals are
recommended?
>Is the wire "tinned"?
>Charlie Kuss
>RV-8A cockpit systems stuff
Copper-clad aluminum differs from ordinary wire in that the copper is not
plated on, but consists of a fused-on layer that is 10% of the diameter of
the aluminum. So you can solder the wire or use other standard techniques.
The wire is not tinned, but this could be added to the spec. Should it be?
Right now the cable is only a pending order for raw material on my "to-do"
list. So next week I'll crank this adventure up and start the process. Soon
there will a half-ton spool of cable where my wife parks her minivan.
The 1/0 cable is 0.500" diameter including insulation. The insulation at
this time is not specified but we want: good cut resistance, low
flammability, low smoke generation, moderate flex, moderate cost.
Your suggestions are welcome. More information on my website.
http://www.periheliondesign.com/fatwires.htm
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
"I only regret my economies."
--Reynolds Price
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Analog to digital converter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:51 AM 8/16/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
> >Hi Eric,
> >I am interested in this product. Could you give us some more info? What
>type of
> >insulation does this wire have? What is the outside diameter of the 0/1
>wire?
> >What are the "specs" on the wire's insulation? What type of terminals are
>recommended?
> >Is the wire "tinned"?
> >Charlie Kuss
> >RV-8A cockpit systems stuff
>
>Copper-clad aluminum differs from ordinary wire in that the copper is not
>plated on, but consists of a fused-on layer that is 10% of the diameter of
>the aluminum. So you can solder the wire or use other standard techniques.
>
>The wire is not tinned, but this could be added to the spec. Should it be?
If we can live with bare strands in welding cable, I suspect
the choice would be no less attractive in copper-clad aluminum . . .
by what percentage would "tinning" add to cost?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | RE: Battery (Welding) cable |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Treff, Arthur" <Arthur.Treff@Smartm.com>
Thanks gang for saving me from my "anal retentive, obsessive-compulsive neurotic
self". I will think no more about the battery cables. They are well installed,
comfy and cozy. If I had you guys around for the countless other things
I re-did due to this disease, I'd be flying by now. Thanks again for all your
help!
Arthur Treff
Message 7
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Don't know the cost adder will be for tinning or plating. I will let you know.
The insulation will be yellow Radox FX. Really super stuff.
Later,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Eric M. Jones
When trouble arises and things look bad, there is always one individual
who perceives a solution and is willing to take command.
Very often, that individual is crazy.
--Dave Barry
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Battery voltage on start |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:46 AM 8/16/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave Grosvenor" <dwg@iafrica.com>
>
>Assuming you have a good battery, how much can you expect the battery
>voltage to drop when you hit the starter (50 - 60Amps) for a few seconds?
Depends on the battery. There is enough ENERGY in a string
of d-size flashlight batteries to crank your engine. Problem
is that these small cell are limited in the RATE at which
energy can be delivered by a quality known as internal
resistance or internal impedance. Further, their small
size suggests a limited CAPACITY too . . . meaning that
even if these cells would deliver useful output at 60A,
your engine would need to start in a few revolutions.
We bench test new 17 a.h. RG batteries with enough load to drop
the terminal voltage to 8.5 volts. A really robust product will
put out 600 amps. A 4-volt drop divided by 600 Amps yields a
measured internal impedance on the order of 7 milliohms. Your
Your hypothetical for 60A would yield 1/10 the voltage drop
on the same battery so it might be expected to stay above 12
volts! As battery characteristics degrade with service or
manufacturing techniques, you can EXPECT internal impedance
to be higher. A really tired 17 a.h. RG battery will show
an internal impedance of 20 milliohms (200A draw) and be
pretty close to useless at this condition for larger
engines. If you can get going with 60A of cranking current,
the "tired" battery will still show a terminal voltage of
11.3 volts . . .
Bigger batteries tend to have lower impedances. Products
with less-than-the-best construction will have higher
impedances . . . but for the purposes of discussing
your question, about any RG battery from 10-32 a.h. range
should start your engine with ease . . .
Most aircraft engines crank in the 150-250A range
and can be expected to show what the battery is
made of. Your cranking requirements are so much
lighter that you can expect to get good cranking
performance from some relatively small and/or tired
batteries.
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Analog to digital converter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
FKJKH)(&*%#&_+_(_&*+_ ......SO THERE!
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Analog to digital converter
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe"
<David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
>
>
VGltZTogMDY6MTY6NTEgUE0gUFNUIFVTDQpGcm9tOiAiUm9iZXJ0IEwuIE51Y2tvbGxzLCBJSUki
>
IDxib2IubnVja29sbHNAY294Lm5ldD4NClN1YmplY3Q6IFJlOiBBZXJvRWxlY3RyaWMtTGlzdDog
>
QW5hbG9nIHRvIGRpZ2l0YWwgY29udmVydGVyDQoNCi0tPiBBZXJvRWxlY3RyaWMtTGlzdCBtZXNz
>
YWdlIHBvc3RlZCBieTogIlJvYmVydCBMLiBOdWNrb2xscywgSUlJIiBib2IubnVja29sbHNAY294
>
Lm5ldA0KDQoNCiAgID4+PiBTaG9ydCBhbnN3ZXIgaXMgdGhhdCB0aGUgaGFyZHdhcmUgaXMgZWFz
>
eSBhbmQgY2hlYXAuDQogICAgVGVsbGluZyB0aGUgaGFyZHdhcmUgaG93IHRvIGRvIGl0J3Mgam9i
>
IGlzIHRoZSBjaGFsbGVuZ2luZw0KICAgIHBhcnQgYW5kIHdvdWxkIHByb2JhYmx5IG5lZWQgc29t
>
ZSBjb29wZXJhdGlvbiBvbiB0aGUgcGFydCBvZg0KICAgIE1yLiBZb3Vua2luLg0KDQogICAgQm9i
>
IC4gLiAuDQoNClRoYW5rIHlvdSBCb2IuDQoNCkRhdmUNCg0KRG8gbm90IGFyY2hpdmUNCg0KDQoN
> Cg==
>
>
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> > >Did you ever consider just adding a good reliable Turn And Bank? That
> > would
> > >only take up one three and an eighth hole.
> >
> > and can be as small as 2-1/4" . . .
>Good Evening Bob,
>
>That's true, but my experience with the two and a quarter size has been poor.
> I've had three of them fail in less than two thousand hours. I agree two
>thousand hours is lot of time, but I have had full size units last for the
>life
>of an airplane.
>
>I am sure no expert on instruments, but my local guru tells me that the new
>small instruments currently available just are not very good. The ones made
>for the military sell for upwards of five grand. Too rich for me. I have
>gone
>back to using new production three and one-eighth inch T&Bs.
Good data point. I think we use 2-1/4" rate indicators on the Beechjet.
I'll see if I can probe the service record on these. In any case,
2,000 hours is about 40 years in the life of the average privately
owned SE aircraft. If the focus of our concerns is likelihood that
a rate instrument will be available to cover the bases for other
flight instruments in any single 4-hour flight, even an MTBF of
1,000 hours would give us a pretty good confidence level. If you've
got a tandem cockpit aircraft, panel real estate carries a premium
price.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | New FAA AC On Amateur Built Aircraft |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "glong2" <glong2@netzero.net>
QC:
I have the same problem. I finally went to the kit supplier (Lancair) and
they filled out the proper form (AC 8050-3) that I hope meets the FAA
requirement!
As I read the original requirement it did not require the form but said it
"could be used". When I applied for the registration the FAA came back and
said the original bill of sale was not good enough!
Eugene Long
Lancair Super ES
glong2@netzero.net
-----Original Message-----
**PS: Case in point. I am still in the middle of trying to sort this out,
but
it appears that the legal types at the FAA aircraft registration office in
Oklahoma have decided that a "Bill of Sale" for a kit purchased six years
ago is
no longer adequate for registration purposes of the aircraft built from that
kit even though the present AC 20-27E specifically says "kit Bill of Sale"
is
what is needed by them.
AC 20-27E also says that AC Form 8050-2 Aircraft Bill of Sale MAY be used so
now they have upped the ante to say that AC Form 8050-2 MUST be used. Their
reasoning is that normal Bills of Sale for kits do not contain the sacred
"words
of transfer" that are used in the sale / transfer of unique legal entities
that have titles such as real estate, automobiles, and aircraft.
To my knowledge a collection of material called a kit, that may or may not
ever become an aircraft of some form, is not a uniquely identifiable legal
entity at the time it passes from the kit providers hands to the amateur
builder.
So "words of transfer" are not applicable nor required.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Relying on non-certified EFIS in IFR |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien" <danobrien@cox.net>
Reading the thread on the merits/cautions of the newer non-certified EFIS
systems prompts me to describe my own plans, hoping to hear any
merits/cautions about my system. I am currently building a relatively
low-budget panel for my Lancair ES.
I have a dual electric (Z-14) system with standard gauges for everything
**except** the attitude indicator, which I replaced with a Dynon EFIS
D-10. My rationale for replacing the attitude indicator was the negative
reports I've heard/read/experienced with electric AI's. With the Dynon,
I've got not only an attitude indicator, but also backups for several
instruments (DG, airspeed, altititude, VSI, TC, etc.). I am banking on
this combination being a better deal (probably MUCH better) than having an
electric AI.
I am instrument rated and plan to take my plane into "hard"
IFR. Obviously, I am not relying solely on the Dynon for this. I also
have the standard DG, TC, and compass in the standard configuration, as
well as a TruTrak autopilot and a second TC in the copilot's seat. Even if
the Dynon were to fail, I feel like I have a better IFR arrangement than my
club's Cardinal, which has vacuum driven gyros, a standby vacuum system,
and an electric TC. I don't think I would feel this way if I were overly
reliant on the attitude indicator (in my case the Dynon) for flying in
IMC. To me, flying in IMC requires a good scan and confidence in your
ability to fly partial panel when the AI goes out. Having a great
autopilot made obviously adds confidence as well.
Any thoughts/concerns appreciated.
Dan O'Brien
Lancair Super ES
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Analog to digital converter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
What I had meant to say was:
Thanks Bob!
Dave
Seems sending through a remote server does some strange stuff.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Analog to digital converter
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe"
<David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
>
>
VGltZTogMDY6MTY6NTEgUE0gUFNUIFVTDQpGcm9tOiAiUm9iZXJ0IEwuIE51Y2tvbGxzLCBJSUki
>
IDxib2IubnVja29sbHNAY294Lm5ldD4NClN1YmplY3Q6IFJlOiBBZXJvRWxlY3RyaWMtTGlzdDog
>
QW5hbG9nIHRvIGRpZ2l0YWwgY29udmVydGVyDQoNCi0tPiBBZXJvRWxlY3RyaWMtTGlzdCBtZXNz
>
YWdlIHBvc3RlZCBieTogIlJvYmVydCBMLiBOdWNrb2xscywgSUlJIiBib2IubnVja29sbHNAY294
>
Lm5ldA0KDQoNCiAgID4+PiBTaG9ydCBhbnN3ZXIgaXMgdGhhdCB0aGUgaGFyZHdhcmUgaXMgZWFz
>
eSBhbmQgY2hlYXAuDQogICAgVGVsbGluZyB0aGUgaGFyZHdhcmUgaG93IHRvIGRvIGl0J3Mgam9i
>
IGlzIHRoZSBjaGFsbGVuZ2luZw0KICAgIHBhcnQgYW5kIHdvdWxkIHByb2JhYmx5IG5lZWQgc29t
>
ZSBjb29wZXJhdGlvbiBvbiB0aGUgcGFydCBvZg0KICAgIE1yLiBZb3Vua2luLg0KDQogICAgQm9i
>
IC4gLiAuDQoNClRoYW5rIHlvdSBCb2IuDQoNCkRhdmUNCg0KRG8gbm90IGFyY2hpdmUNCg0KDQoN
> Cg==
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: New FAA AC On Amateur Built Aircraft |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
So what happens if you build your airplane from scratch???
Dave
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "glong2" <glong2@netzero.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: New FAA AC On Amateur Built Aircraft
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "glong2" <glong2@netzero.net>
>
> QC:
>
> I have the same problem. I finally went to the kit supplier (Lancair) and
> they filled out the proper form (AC 8050-3) that I hope meets the FAA
> requirement!
> As I read the original requirement it did not require the form but said it
> "could be used". When I applied for the registration the FAA came back and
> said the original bill of sale was not good enough!
>
>
> Eugene Long
> Lancair Super ES
> glong2@netzero.net
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Speedy11@aol.com
I have three instruments available for an all-electric panel. They are new
and have never been used. I got them with a project I bought and I've decided
to install the Blue Mountain EFIS so I no longer need them. All are 14v
unlighted.
I will pay for insured Fedex shipping.
I can send digital photos if desired.
Instruments Available:
One RC Allen Attitude Indicator model RCA26AK-4
Aircraft Spruce - $1785
Chief (new surplus) - $1675
American - $1695
Gulf Coast - $1895
My Price - $1300 with free shipping & no sales tax
One RC Allen Directional Gyro model RCA15AK-2
Aircraft Spruce - $1695
Chief - $1689
American - $1425
Gulf Coast - $1895
My Price - $1100 with free shipping & no sales tax
One RC Allen Turn Coordinator model 82A-11
Aircraft Spruce - $483
Chief - $515
American - $495
My Price - $350 with free shipping & no sales tax
Buy all three for $2500 and save an additional $250.
The prices are a very good value and the instruments are new. Payment is via
cashiers check or I will ship COD if the buyer is willing to pay the COD
charges. Once the buyer receives the instruments I will accept them back if
shipped back within 2 days of delivery. If returned, shipping is at buyers expense
and I will deduct my shipping costs from the amount paid. The buyer will
need to call me if returning an instrument (s). If all are purchased for $2500,
then all must be returned if any is returned. In other words, you can't buy
all three and then return only one.
Don't respond on Matronics - contact me via email at "Speedy11@aol.com" or by
phone at 813-318-9074 or 813-732-7369.
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa, FL
RV-8A QB
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: New FAA AC On Amateur Built Aircraft |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William" <wschertz@ispwest.com>
Scratch built don't require bill of sale, different box is checked.
Bill Schertz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: New FAA AC On Amateur Built Aircraft
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe"
<davevon@tir.com>
>
> So what happens if you build your airplane from scratch???
>
> Dave
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "glong2" <glong2@netzero.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: New FAA AC On Amateur Built Aircraft
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "glong2" <glong2@netzero.net>
> >
> > QC:
> >
> > I have the same problem. I finally went to the kit supplier (Lancair)
and
> > they filled out the proper form (AC 8050-3) that I hope meets the FAA
> > requirement!
> > As I read the original requirement it did not require the form but said
it
> > "could be used". When I applied for the registration the FAA came back
and
> > said the original bill of sale was not good enough!
> >
> >
> > Eugene Long
> > Lancair Super ES
> > glong2@netzero.net
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Battery voltage on start |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave Grosvenor" <dwg@iafrica.com>
Thanks Bob. That answers my question. The reason I asked was two fold.
With my kit I was supplied with a 16Ah wet motorcycle battery. I know the
advantages of using an RG battery, but decided to put this thing in and use
it until it died because I have paid for it.
I was doing more tests with my OV module glitch and put a recording scope on
my bus. When I hit the start button, the battery voltage is dropping right
down to 9 volts. The battery cranks the starter with enough enthusiasm to
start the engine (Rotax starter draws 50A) but my second problem related to
a Rotax engine information system called a FlyDat that I have fitted. It
doesn't like the low voltage and resets itself. It takes 30 seconds to go
though its initialisation process which means you don't see an oil press
reading for at least 30 secs.
I was wondering if a 16Ah RG battery will also suffer from the same sort of
volt drop. I saw the specs on a Hawker RG battery which say it will deliver
680A for 30 secs before dropping to 7.2 volts but I wanted to know if it
will deliver 50A for 10 secs without dropping substantially. Thanks to your
reply and looking at the specs again I see the impedance is 7milliohms which
will give me a 0.35V drop - I can live with that.
Goodbye motorcycle battery!
Thanks again
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Battery voltage on start
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:46 AM 8/16/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dave Grosvenor" <dwg@iafrica.com>
>
>Assuming you have a good battery, how much can you expect the battery
>voltage to drop when you hit the starter (50 - 60Amps) for a few seconds?
Depends on the battery. There is enough ENERGY in a string
of d-size flashlight batteries to crank your engine. Problem
is that these small cell are limited in the RATE at which
energy can be delivered by a quality known as internal
resistance or internal impedance. Further, their small
size suggests a limited CAPACITY too . . . meaning that
even if these cells would deliver useful output at 60A,
your engine would need to start in a few revolutions.
We bench test new 17 a.h. RG batteries with enough load to drop
the terminal voltage to 8.5 volts. A really robust product will
put out 600 amps. A 4-volt drop divided by 600 Amps yields a
measured internal impedance on the order of 7 milliohms. Your
Your hypothetical for 60A would yield 1/10 the voltage drop
on the same battery so it might be expected to stay above 12
volts! As battery characteristics degrade with service or
manufacturing techniques, you can EXPECT internal impedance
to be higher. A really tired 17 a.h. RG battery will show
an internal impedance of 20 milliohms (200A draw) and be
pretty close to useless at this condition for larger
engines. If you can get going with 60A of cranking current,
the "tired" battery will still show a terminal voltage of
11.3 volts . . .
Bigger batteries tend to have lower impedances. Products
with less-than-the-best construction will have higher
impedances . . . but for the purposes of discussing
your question, about any RG battery from 10-32 a.h. range
should start your engine with ease . . .
Most aircraft engines crank in the 150-250A range
and can be expected to show what the battery is
made of. Your cranking requirements are so much
lighter that you can expect to get good cranking
performance from some relatively small and/or tired
batteries.
Bob . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | soldering iron wattage |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: drew.schumann@us.army.mil
In reading the instructions for building an RST Marker Beacon kit, they call out
for a 35-80 watt pencil soldering iron. I have access to a 25 watt iron from
Radio Shack. Looking through the kit, I don't see anything so big as to need
all that extra wattage. Am I wrong in thinking I could do just as good a job
with a 25 watt iron?
Thanks,
Drew
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: soldering iron wattage |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Drew,
I suggest you consider getting a soldering iron of some what better quality
than what you suggest is easily available to you.
If you don't expect to do any other electronic projects at all, try to
borrow a better unit.
I built both of the RMI kits. When I started out on them I wasted money on a
cheap iron. Fortunately it burned out before I got too far. After thinking
about how it performed before it died on me, I decided that a hundred bucks
was a small percentage of what the two kits cost.
I bought a Weller adustable whattage unit that has electro static discharge
protection. Right away I was surprised at how much better my soldering
quality came out. Both of the RMI kits worked fine when powered up. I'm not
so sure they would have without the better quailty unit.
The kits are built and I now have a good soldering station that I find I am
using much more than I expected.
Have fun building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <drew.schumann@us.army.mil>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: soldering iron wattage
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: drew.schumann@us.army.mil
>
> In reading the instructions for building an RST Marker Beacon kit, they
call out for a 35-80 watt pencil soldering iron. I have access to a 25 watt
iron from Radio Shack. Looking through the kit, I don't see anything so big
as to need all that extra wattage. Am I wrong in thinking I could do just
as good a job with a 25 watt iron?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Drew
>
>
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