Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:31 AM - Homebuilt State Sales Tax Warning - Not Aeroelectric Related (Ken Brooks)
2. 10:30 AM - LED on LR3? (Robert Whitaker)
3. 11:21 AM - Battery Cable and the book I wish I written (Eric M. Jones)
4. 11:26 AM - proper use of RCT-3 tool (Jeff Point)
5. 11:37 AM - Re: Homebuilt State Sales Tax Warning - Not Aeroelectric R... (N823ms@aol.com)
6. 12:03 PM - Re: proper use of RCT-3 tool (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 12:03 PM - Re: Battery Cable and the book I wish I (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 12:05 PM - Re: LED on LR3? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 12:13 PM - Re: LED on LR3? (John Schroeder)
10. 12:13 PM - Ammeter shunts (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 01:33 PM - Water damage (Mark Phillips)
12. 01:49 PM - Oil Pressure Switch (Mark Phillips)
13. 01:55 PM - "Startstik" still around? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 02:30 PM - Re: Water damage (Mark Phillips)
15. 02:53 PM - Re: What kind of connector on LSE-EI system? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 03:40 PM - Re: What kind of connector on LSE-EI system? (Jeff Point)
17. 03:48 PM - Re: Metcal (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 04:10 PM - Re: What kind of connector on LSE-EI system? (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Homebuilt State Sales Tax Warning - Not Aeroelectric |
Related
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
Not electric-related but is OBAM related --
In case aeroelectric listers don't subscribe to the rv-list, this is
copied from my post today on that list:
Dear -listers,
Sorry to have to dredge up such a morbid subject (again), but I have
some new info if you live/fly/register your project in Illinois. Not
all states are this punitive, but it might pay to check this out in your
state to verify. . .
Any purchases a builder makes from out of state from retailers (this
includes Van's kits, AeroElectric Connection, Cleaveland seats,
Aerosport Power engines, etc.) for which you don't pay sales tax are
taxable in Illinois at 6.25%, and if you don't pay this sales tax from
day 1 and assume like I did that you'll have to cough it up upon
completion and registration of your finished project, think again!
In a nutshell, here's what the Illinois State Use Tax law demands:
Every time you buy qualifying items from out-of-state retailers, compute
the sales tax (buying things from a non-retailer such as another builder
is NON-TAXABLE). If this tax is less than $600.00 ($9600 purchase
value) in one calendar year, you may pay it annually. Once the computed
tax for a large item (engine) exceeds $600--, you have 30 days to send
the Dept. of Revenue a check and form ST-44. (See
<http://www.iltax.com/> http://www.iltax.com ) Failure to do so makes
you liable for penalties and interest!!
Illinois builders: The state is offering a "Penalty and Interest
Amnesty" program from October 1, 2003 to November 15, 2003. I was just
told yesterday on the phone by a Mr. Mark Russell at the Dept. of
Revenue that after this amnesty period, the state tax investigators (?)
will be "vigorously pursuing builders who are in non-compliance."
Don't ask me how you might be able to avoid paying state sales tax in
Illinois and possibly other states. I don't have time to research, but
wanted to give IL builders a heads-up on this penalty and interest
amnesty thing in case they want to participate. If you do, simply add a
cover letter to your ST-44 form that states "I wish to participate in
the amnesty program that will waive penalties and interest for state
sales tax." As crazy as this may sound, Mr. Russell made it clear to me
that I should DEFINITELY NOT SEND THIS LETTER AND CHECK IN UNTIL OCTOBER
1st, AS THE AMNESTY WOULD NOT BE IN EFFECT UNTIL THEN! Go figure.
At least I have over a month to figure out where I'm going to come up
with a large chunk of change! <8-(
Sure wish I had known about this in '97!
Ken Brooks
RV-8QB in progress - starting on canopy next week
N1903P reserved
How fortunate for governments that the people do not think -- Adolf
Hitler
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Whitaker <rmwhitaker@lanl.gov>
Bob, Listers
I'm about to install the LR3-14 regulator into my RV-9. It uses a midget
flanged
#330 bulb for the voltage warning lamp.
Can I replace the #330 bulb with an LED as a warning light? If so, how
would I wire
this up without damaging the regulator?
Thanks in advance,
Rob
BTW I suspect that this has been discussed before, but I could not recover
anything
from the archives.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Battery Cable and the book I wish I written |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Battery Cable Update--I have the CCA prices and am waiting for a quote from
the insulation people. But it looks like I will have made not only the AWG
1/0 cable with 1 mm Radox FX insulation, but the AWG #2 and the AWG #4
cables too. There's going to be a lot of cable in my garage if somebody
doesn't buy some.
The book I wish I'd written--Check the Art of Electronics by Horowitz and
Hill at Amazon. They have 45 pages from the book to sample online. Good
Stuff.
Eric
Message 4
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| Subject: | proper use of RCT-3 tool |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I am getting ready to wire the harness for my Dynon, but my RCT-3 crimp
tool came with no instructions. What is the proper way to use the tool,
ie. how much of the pin should stick out prior to crimping, how much
insulation to strip off the wires, etc.
Jeff Point
RV-6 wiring, panel
Milwaukee, WI
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt State Sales Tax Warning - Not Aeroelectric |
R...
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com
In a message dated 8/21/2003 10:32:44 AM Central Standard Time,
kenbrooks@charter.net writes:
> Don't ask me how you might be able to avoid paying state sales tax in
> Illinois and possibly other states. I don't have time to research, but
> wanted to give IL builders a heads-up on this penalty and interest
> amnesty thing in case they want to participate. If you do, simply add a
> cover letter to your ST-44 form that states "I wish to participate in
> the amnesty program that will waive penalties and interest for state
> sales tax." As crazy as this may sound, Mr. Russell made it clear to me
> that I should DEFINITELY NOT SEND THIS LETTER AND CHECK IN UNTIL OCTOBER
> 1st, AS THE AMNESTY WOULD NOT BE IN EFFECT UNTIL THEN! Go figure
>
> Ken & others:
>
> It was this time last year that I got notice from the state of TN that I
> owed sales tax on my kit plane. I had this kit almost two years; What happened?
> To make it short, when I registered for my "N" number with the FAA at the
> previous S&F, they in turn sent a copy to the state of Tennessee. So I called
> and they said it is a one time deal. When they asked about the plane
> description, I said most of it is in a box. I could pay the tax on the kit or
tax on
> the entire plane when it is done, My Choice! I elected to pay tax on the kit
> price. They also gave me 90 days to pay it, either in payments or lump sum. In
> TN, it is not the normal sales tax, it is a formula to follow, call Nashville
> and they will send you a packet. I was never told that I had to pay sales
> tax on items from out of state. Yet! I would not be surprised in the future
> this may happen.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ed SIlvanic
> N823MS@aol.com
> Memphis, TN
>
> do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: proper use of RCT-3 tool |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:33 PM 8/21/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
>I am getting ready to wire the harness for my Dynon, but my RCT-3 crimp
>tool came with no instructions. What is the proper way to use the tool,
>ie. how much of the pin should stick out prior to crimping, how much
>insulation to strip off the wires, etc.
Strip a wire and slip a pin over it. You should have enough
insulation removed so that you can just see some strands of
wire beyond the end of insulation . . . .01" to .03" gap.
The pin goes all the way into the tool. If the tool was purchased
from B&C, the positioner should be modified so that the end of
the pin is just flush to slightly underflush to the face of the
tool when the pin is fully inserted.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Cable and the book I wish I |
written
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:22 PM 8/21/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
>Battery Cable Update--I have the CCA prices and am waiting for a quote from
>the insulation people. But it looks like I will have made not only the AWG
>1/0 cable with 1 mm Radox FX insulation, but the AWG #2 and the AWG #4
>cables too. There's going to be a lot of cable in my garage if somebody
>doesn't buy some.
>
>The book I wish I'd written--Check the Art of Electronics by Horowitz and
>Hill at Amazon. They have 45 pages from the book to sample online. Good
>Stuff.
I have that book . . . I'm not nearly as impressed with it as
I am with T. Floyd's work.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:29 AM 8/21/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Whitaker <rmwhitaker@lanl.gov>
>
>Bob, Listers
>
>I'm about to install the LR3-14 regulator into my RV-9. It uses a midget
>flanged
>#330 bulb for the voltage warning lamp.
>
>Can I replace the #330 bulb with an LED as a warning light? If so, how
>would I wire
>this up without damaging the regulator?
See http://216.55.140.222/temp/LV_Led.jpg
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Rob -
I sent you a couple of files directly that Bob drew up. One is for a
bicolor LED and the other is for a single color LED.
do no archive.
John
> Can I replace the #330 bulb with an LED as a warning light? If so, how
> would I wire this up without damaging the regulator?
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Bob-- Got your book. Have read the section on ammeters/shunts several
> times. But, I just don't understand the mechanics of the shunt. If the
> shunt reduces the voltage to say 50 M.V.for the ammeter, how does it
> still then carry battery voltage to ground? Seems I'm missing a
> fundamental or two.
A shunt is simply a precision resistor capable of carrying
a lot more current that the panel instrument. When ammeters
were first installed in vehicles, they were usually a
"battery ammeter" with discharge-0-charge markings on them
These instruments had FAT wires coming to big terminals
on the back. ALL of the current that the instrument was
measuring passed through the instrument.
The nice thing about a shunt is that it carries the
vast majority of the current to be measured. Panel
instruments designed to work with shunts are intended
to operate as VOLTMETERS with a full scale deflection
of 50 millivolts.
If you want your instrument to be a 100A full scale
device, then you need a shut resistance of 0.05v/100a
= 500 micro-ohms. If you want a 10A full scale
instrument, then the shunt becomes 0.05v/10a = 5
milliohms.
The ammeter has nothing to do with battery voltage
nor does it "reduce voltage" . . . it does what
all resistors do: presents a voltage drop that is
proportional to the current flowing in the resistor.
The 10A and 100A ammeter hypothetical cases above
could be used at any system voltage.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
Message 11
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Aeroelectric List <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Looking for a good location for my Aeroflash strobe power supplies and
prefer outer ribs of wings and rear deck. Should I be concerned about
these boxes getting wet? As good as the tips and fairing may fit, I
seriously believe water will get in there at some point...
Mark- do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Oil Pressure Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Howdy A-list-
I have the switch from B & C and you'd think this has got to be a
pretty simple device. However, I am mystified at it's operation.
Terminals are P S & I (cute). P appears to be common. With no
pressure, I read anywhere between 120 & 2 to 3+ M ohms from P to S
(wandering around sometimes on my Fluke 87, sometimes stable at around
130-140 ohms), then when pressure applied, infinity. P to I acts like
normal NO connection, switching properly when pressure is applied. I am
using air- maybe it needs oiling? Or is it defective? Maybe the
internal processor or kadink muffler is defective, or it needs
shielding? 8
)
Thanks- Mark do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | "Startstik" still around? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>Comments/Questions: Bob,
>I've been thinking about installing a second battery in the back of my
>Long-Ez with its primary mission being to start the engine. I could then
>reduce the cable size (#2 currently) that runs to the front of the nose
>where the existing battery resides. I had seen a product called
>"Startstick" a couple of years ago at Oshkosh but can no longer find the
>company. I liked the size of the battery because it was relatively long
>and thin and would fit nicely in either the "hell hole" or above the spar,
>behind the passenger's head.
>However, there are some obvious questions.
>
>1) Do you know of an alternate source of such batteries?
I believe that product used the approximately "c" sized, sealed
lead-acid cells made by Bolder Technologies . . . now defunct.
>2) How do I tie the "starter battery" into the electrical system so that
>it stays charged without over charging it. Is this a candidate for your
>Aux. Bat Manager Module?
You could do that . . . but I presume that unless you
can acquire a very small battery capable of cranking
the engine, this isn't going to be an option. Have
you considered how the system is going to perform
if the alternator quits? See chapter 17 from our
book, "The AeroElectric Connection" . . .
You can download this chapter at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev9/ch17-9.pdf
You can downsize a battery considerably if you have
two engine driven power sources. See Figure 17-4.
Suppose the battery does come out of the nose, how
does your weight and balance look? Most of the
Longs I've seen needed that nose weight to keep
w/b in bounds.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Water damage |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
As an afterthought, how about the Naviad servo as well- (wingtip
installation preferred) I doubt this is a "waterproof" device...
Mark do not archive
Mark Phillips wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Looking for a good location for my Aeroflash strobe power supplies and
> prefer outer ribs of wings and rear deck. Should I be concerned about
> these boxes getting wet? As good as the tips and fairing may fit, I
> seriously believe water will get in there at some point...
>
> Mark- do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: What kind of connector on LSE-EI system? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:07 PM 8/19/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > That would be most useful data to have in my files. I'd
> > appreciate it.
>
>Will do. I'll email you the files off-list.
>
> > Sooooo . . . if one plans to put the brain box on the other side
> > of the firewall -AND- one has the magneto-drive trigger option,
> > there are perhaps TWO d-sub connectors to remove and replace?
>
>I don't think you'd need to remove the mag-drive D-9 connector itself, just
>reconnect its wires to the 15-pin connector. The reason being, the D-9
>connector to the mag-drive doesn't need to pass through any holes.
Help me out here. If I'm reading the wiring diagrams right,
there's a 15-pin connector on the brain box and a 9-pin
connector on the optional mag-drive timing sensor.
If one chooses not to use the mag-drive timing sensor, then
there is one d-sub connector (15-pin) inside and loose wires
to route to their respective connections on the engine. Why
would one need to cut a hole large enough for a 15-pin
connector in this case? Just feed loose wires through the
firewall and hook 'em up.
If you do have a mag-drive sensor, then the only connector
that needs to go through a hole would be the 9-pin . . .
(and therefore, a smaller hole) -OR- one could choose to
remove the connector and replace it after wires are routed.
If I'm interpreting this correctly, then the only case
where one needs a connector to "upgrade" the harness on
an LSE system is if the builder plans to install the
mag-drive sensor. In this case, the connector to be
supplied would be a 9-pin, D-sub with male pins.
Do I have the real picture here?
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: What kind of connector on LSE-EI system? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
This is not quite correct. The wires leading from the flywheel sensor
to the D-sub are soldered, gooped up and basically permanently attached
to the flywheel sensor, from the factory. The only loose wires are the
power and ground wires. There are seperate (RG58 or some such) which
attach with BNCs to the brain box, which go to the ignition coils.
Jeff Point
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> If one chooses not to use the mag-drive timing sensor, then
> there is one d-sub connector (15-pin) inside and loose wires
> to route to their respective connections on the engine. Why
> would one need to cut a hole large enough for a 15-pin
> connector in this case? Just feed loose wires through the
> firewall and hook 'em up.
>
>
>
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:12 PM 8/19/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RSwanson" <rswan19@comcast.net>
>
>Bob,
>Could you enlighted the Metcal ignorant among us with some recommendations
>for a mid priced unit. I see a new one that's called a STSS-002E. Would
>that be acceptable for our needs?
Anything with Metcal's name on it is a fine soldering
machine and well suited to your needs.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: What kind of connector on LSE-EI system? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> If one chooses not to use the mag-drive timing sensor, then
> there is one d-sub connector (15-pin) inside and loose wires
> to route to their respective connections on the engine. Why
> would one need to cut a hole large enough for a 15-pin
> connector in this case? Just feed loose wires through the
> firewall and hook 'em up.
Because the wires are already soldered and secured to the crank position
sensor (the alternative to the Hall Effect sensor). It's really a silly way
to ship the system, but I understand why Klaus does it that way. Or maybe
it comes with loose ends and AeroSport soldered it to the crank sensor, I'm
not sure.
> If you do have a mag-drive sensor, then the only connector
> that needs to go through a hole would be the 9-pin . . .
> (and therefore, a smaller hole) -OR- one could choose to
> remove the connector and replace it after wires are routed.
Presumably, yep. But not having a mag drive sensor I can't speak to that
config.
I can only give you info about the crank sensor equipped setup, which simply
has the crank sensor, wires soldered and secured to it (as it came from
AeroSport Power), with a bundle running to the 15-pin connector, soldered on
as it came from LSE. Had to cut that connector off, run the little wire
bundle through an existing firewall pass-through (sharing the same
pass-through as EGT/CHT probes), then crimp on a new 15-pin connector inside
the cabin.
Not sure if this is in the same ballpark as the "upgrade" that you're
talking about.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
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