Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:00 AM - Bad news at aerolearn.com (drew.schumann@us.army.mil)
2. 05:06 AM - Starter Contactor Mounting (William Bernard)
3. 05:19 AM - Re: Bad news at aerolearn.com (Lonnie Benson)
4. 05:41 AM - Re: Unstable charging system . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:47 AM - Re: LR3C-14 Voltage Regulator (LarryRobertHelming)
6. 08:00 AM - Re: Starter Contactor Mounting (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 08:52 AM - Re: Wire runs/clamps. (Mark Phillips)
8. 09:02 AM - Re: Re: LR3C-14 Voltage Regulator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 10:39 AM - Re: Wire runs/clamps. (Jim Oke)
10. 11:20 AM - Routing wires (Fergus Kyle)
11. 11:40 AM - Re: wire runs/clamps (cary rhodes)
12. 01:36 PM - Re: Sky-Tec starters and solenoids (Rich Chiappe)
13. 01:52 PM - Re: Routing wires (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 01:54 PM - Re: RG58/AU vs /CU (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 02:22 PM - Narco VOR Receiver Problem (Ronnie Brown)
16. 02:30 PM - Re: Skytec Starter Solenoids (Ronnie Brown)
17. 04:00 PM - Re: Routing wires (Dan Checkoway)
18. 07:17 PM - Re: Routing wires (Steve Richard)
19. 07:47 PM - Re: Routing wires (William)
20. 08:28 PM - Re: Routing wires (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 08:52 PM - Re: Routing wires (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
22. 08:56 PM - 760 VHF installation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 08:57 PM - Re: Re: Skytec Starter Solenoids (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
24. 09:31 PM - Re: Routing wires (Bruce Gray)
25. 09:56 PM - Re: Starter Contactor Mounting (Tom...)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Bad news at aerolearn.com |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: drew.schumann@us.army.mil
The last couple days I attempted to access the online campus at aerolearn.com,
I received an "Internal Server Error" and when I e-mailed the webmaster, my e-mail
"bounced".
This was an outstanding aviation maintenance training resource and I hope that
whatever problems they are having, that they are resolved quickly, and this incredibly
valuable asset doesn't go away, permanently.
Drew
Message 2
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| Subject: | Starter Contactor Mounting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
I've got the starter contactor mounted on the firewall. It is what Bob calls a
"Type I", nounted with the cap up. One of the airport crowd came by and suggested
that it should be mounted 'upside down'. The idea apparently is that gravity
will assist the spring in breaking contact and helping prevent starter engagement
after the engine is running.
I've used this contactor for 18syears in this position and don't think this is
a concern. I've seen them mounted both ways and wonder if there is a preferred
way.
Also, is it possible to add a "starter engaged" light (probably be an LED) powered
by a small wire on the terminal running to the starter? Or will the high current
fry a piece of 22 AWG wire in that location? The particular contactor has
three terminals.
Thanks in advance.
Bill
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Bad news at aerolearn.com |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lonnie Benson" <lonben@erols.com>
Drew,
I was able to access the site with no problem. Interesting site. Thanks
for the lead.
Lonnie
Murphy Rebel
Ready to start my panel
----- Original Message -----
From: <drew.schumann@us.army.mil>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Bad news at aerolearn.com
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: drew.schumann@us.army.mil
>
> The last couple days I attempted to access the online campus at
aerolearn.com, I received an "Internal Server Error" and when I e-mailed the
webmaster, my e-mail "bounced".
>
> This was an outstanding aviation maintenance training resource and I hope
that whatever problems they are having, that they are resolved quickly, and
this incredibly valuable asset doesn't go away, permanently.
>
> Drew
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Unstable charging system . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Some answers to your final questions. I am using a single
point ground system where my ground bus behind the panel
has a lead to the single point on the motor mount. A to
S is a short wire with a capacitor included for noise
reduction, and then it is about 20 inches to the bus.
The size of the wire would be a guess. I have no OV protection.
Also the wires from the voltage regulator go through the fire
wall with several other wires from the engine compartment to
include the senders for CHT EGT, the alternator, and those
ground leads from the bus to the motor mount. Also wires
from oil pressure and temp. travel through the one opening.
Okay, let's try the experiment I described and
see how it behaves.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: LR3C-14 Voltage Regulator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Todd, I am not a phone type person. I like things in writing. I think your
company would sell 10 times as many products if you allowed your customers
to get to the facts and not have to wait on and tie up your engineer's time.
That is not a good business approach in my opinion having to answer routine
customer's questions one on one. Why not answer them once and put it there
for anyone to get to when their time allows?
I guess I will be doing business some place else for a regulator. Thanks.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: Orders
To: LarryRobertHelming
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: LR3C-14 Voltage Regulator
Larry,
The best thing is to call and ask for Tim, our Electrical Engineer. Tim
will be in a meeting today starting at 9:45, I would estimate the meeting
lasting until around 1:00.
Tim can best explain the workings of the LR3C-14 regulator.
Thanks,
Todd Koerner
B&C Specialty Products
www.bandc.biz
----- Original Message -----
From: LarryRobertHelming
To: sales@bandcspecialty.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 6:44 AM
Subject: LR3C-14 Voltage Regulator
I need more information than I seem to be able to find on your web site
about the captioned product. I need to know what it does exactly and what
is required to make it work. Thanks.
lhelming@sigecom.net
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Contactor Mounting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:10 AM 8/26/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard"
><billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
>
>I've got the starter contactor mounted on the firewall. It is what Bob
>calls a "Type I", nounted with the cap up. One of the airport crowd came
>by and suggested that it should be mounted 'upside down'. The idea
>apparently is that gravity will assist the spring in breaking contact and
>helping prevent starter engagement after the engine is running.
Ol' mechanic's tale that's been fertilized too
much for decades . . .
>I've used this contactor for 18syears in this position and don't think
>this is a concern. I've seen them mounted both ways and wonder if there is
>a preferred way.
Nope . . . but be aware that this style contactor
http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/s701-1l.jpg
is increasingly difficult to find in a high-pressure,
intermittent-duty style best suited for starter
contactor service.
If you're using continuous duty versions of this
contactor -AND- in light of exemplar service experience,
there's no pressing reason to change from what you've
been doing.
However, the continuous duty contactors used in
this position are more likely to stick or weld
shut . . . this has nothing to do with direction
of gravity.
If you ever stick this contactor, you might consider
replacing with this intermittent duty style:
http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/s702-1l.jpg
which is about as bullet-proof a starter contactor
as you can buy.
>Also, is it possible to add a "starter engaged" light (probably be an LED)
>powered by a small wire on the terminal running to the starter? Or will
>the high current fry a piece of 22 AWG wire in that location? The
>particular contactor has three terminals.
Sure. If you want to use an LED, you'll need to
put a resistor in series with it. Mount this
resistor AT THE CONTACTOR end of the wire. This
impedance jump at the source end will protect the
wire. Also, put a diode in parallel with the
LED with banded end (cathode) of diode tied
to plus side (anode) of LED. LED's are relatively
robust for forward transient currents but rather
fragile for reverse transients. The diode (1N4005
or similar) combined with your 330 ohm resistor
at the feed-end of the wire will protect the
LED.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Wire runs/clamps. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Hi Dean-
An alternate method that has several advantages is using PVC or CPVC pipe. A 1/2"
run to
the tail will carry all you'll need back there, is easy to run through the bulkheads,
and
is very easy to run wires through & add more later, if desired. I ran one piece
along
the right side close to the bottom skins from just aft of the spar to just aft
of the 606
BH, then another one from just behind this to just in front of the 610 BH, which
has a
rubber grommet through it. I just fished my trim servo cable through it and took
maybe 2
minutes. Same thing for the wings but I used 5/8" there...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
>
> A couple quick questions:
>
> I'm looking (finally) at running some wire out to the back end of my RV-6
> before I rivet the aft top skins on. I drilled some holes in the bulkheads
> and Van's supplies lots of grommets which I installed. The dilemma I have
> now is how to secure that wire. For the tefzel wire we use, what should I
> use to secure it, adel clamps, zip ties or what? How would I fasten those
> clamps along the floor of the airplane, don't want to drill a hole in the
> skin, double sided tape likely won't stick to the primer or at least stay on
> so.. any suggestions? Also how often should I secure the wire, every 3
> inches every 6 inches, every foot, what? Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
>
> RV-6A finish kit.
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: LR3C-14 Voltage Regulator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:50 AM 8/26/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
><lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
>Todd, I am not a phone type person. I like things in writing. I think your
>company would sell 10 times as many products if you allowed your customers
>to get to the facts and not have to wait on and tie up your engineer's time.
>That is not a good business approach in my opinion having to answer routine
>customer's questions one on one. Why not answer them once and put it there
>for anyone to get to when their time allows?
>
>I guess I will be doing business some place else for a regulator. Thanks.
>
>Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
>On Finish Kit
Larry,
Not sure why you posted this to the AeroElectric-List . . . but
permit me to offer some observations:
There are very few places that offer airplane parts where
sales personnel can offer in-depth technical details about
their products. If you called Raytheon waving a credit card
to buy a new $500,000 Bonanza, it COULD take some time
to put you in touch with a person who is able to accurately
inform you about some detail of the airplane's construction.
This is why B&C, the AeroElectric Connection, and most
other capable suppliers will publish as many details as
practical to assist customers in their purchasing decisions.
B&C publishes detailed installation data on their website,
as do we. When customer queries reveal some shortfall
in the information supplied, the documents are revised
to fill in the gap. After a time, un-resolved
questions fade away and we consider our data publishing
task relatively complete.
If you have a question about the LR-3, and given that you're
a subscriber to the AeroElectric-List, why not post the
question there first? I designed that regulator. Dozens
of current users of that LR-3 regulators are subscribers also.
You say you like to have things in writing . . . very
well. There are articles and books on aeroelectric.com
that discuss the functionality and use of regulators,
ov protection, low voltage warning irrespective of
who's components you ultimately choose to incorporate
into your airplane. Looking at LR3 installation diagram
alone tells you a great deal about what the device
does and "what's needed to make it work".
I'm sorry you're upset with your experience. Please
consider the fact that data published on B&C's
products to date has not needed revision for several
years. Further, it has supported the satisfactory sale and
installation of thousands of LR3 regulators.
Are you suggesting that 90% of B&C's potential
sales are going somewhere else because published
data falls short of their expectations? If you
perceive a shortfall in published data, I'm sure
they'd be pleased to consider an expansion.
If you'd care to post your questions about the LR3
to the list, I and numerous others would be pleased
to assist with the answers in any way we can.
Bob . . .
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Orders
> To: LarryRobertHelming
> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 9:53 AM
> Subject: Re: LR3C-14 Voltage Regulator
>
>
> Larry,
> The best thing is to call and ask for Tim, our Electrical Engineer. Tim
>will be in a meeting today starting at 9:45, I would estimate the meeting
>lasting until around 1:00.
> Tim can best explain the workings of the LR3C-14 regulator.
>
> Thanks,
> Todd Koerner
> B&C Specialty Products
> www.bandc.biz
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: LarryRobertHelming
> To: sales@bandcspecialty.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 6:44 AM
> Subject: LR3C-14 Voltage Regulator
>
>
> I need more information than I seem to be able to find on your web site
>about the captioned product. I need to know what it does exactly and what
>is required to make it work. Thanks.
>
> lhelming@sigecom.net
>
>
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wire runs/clamps. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
I will second that advice. I used some 1/2" hard poly tubing and drilled
(Unibit) snug fitting holes through the various bulkheads and eased the
tubing through. I didn't bother with any extra grommets or anything as the
tubing will be adequate protection for the wiring for the first 5,000 hours
or so.
The obvious point is that this is much, much easier if done before putting
the aft top skin on.
Some thought should go into the fwd and aft termination points. I used a
terminal block under the seats pans and just hard wired with splices at the
aft end to the tail light wires and such on the argument that these will
rarely be removed. Allow a few inches of slack for future splicing jobs and
you should be good for quite a few removals. There is not a lot of room back
there when the tail is on, so allow lots of slack and keep the tubing exit
point high. Also no need to worry about straight runs, the wires will feed
through any reasonable curve just fine.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wire runs/clamps.
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Hi Dean-
>
> An alternate method that has several advantages is using PVC or CPVC pipe.
A 1/2" run to
> the tail will carry all you'll need back there, is easy to run through the
bulkheads, and
> is very easy to run wires through & add more later, if desired. I ran one
piece along
> the right side close to the bottom skins from just aft of the spar to just
aft of the 606
> BH, then another one from just behind this to just in front of the 610 BH,
which has a
> rubber grommet through it. I just fished my trim servo cable through it
and took maybe 2
> minutes. Same thing for the wings but I used 5/8" there...
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark
>
> Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos"
<deanpsir@easystreet.com>
> >
> > A couple quick questions:
> >
> > I'm looking (finally) at running some wire out to the back end of my
RV-6
> > before I rivet the aft top skins on. I drilled some holes in the
bulkheads
> > and Van's supplies lots of grommets which I installed. The dilemma I
have
> > now is how to secure that wire. For the tefzel wire we use, what should
I
> > use to secure it, adel clamps, zip ties or what? How would I fasten
those
> > clamps along the floor of the airplane, don't want to drill a hole in
the
> > skin, double sided tape likely won't stick to the primer or at least
stay on
> > so.. any suggestions? Also how often should I secure the wire, every 3
> > inches every 6 inches, every foot, what? Thanks.
> >
> > Dean Psiropoulos
> >
> > RV-6A finish kit.
> >
>
>
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Bob,
I appreciate your answering many of the general (and sometimes
repetitive) questions with regard to wiring standards and acceptable
methods. My machine is a composite (glass + some foam) structure. I have
drilled several galleries through the control and fiselage structures of
about 3/16" diameter for future channeling of accessory units. I also
contemplated using heatshrink tubing as guide for installing long runs from
extremity to fuselage centre - it is light, will not likely encounter
shrinkworthy temps, and is easily fixed into place with epoxy (I am
fortunate to have long runs available).
However, once these break out into the open fuselage bewhind the
cockpit I should have a regularly-spaced method of fixing to the structure.
Can I just spot-epoxy the tubing at say 9inch intervals - or is there a
superior standard to which I should adhere?
I would not nromally ask a personal boon but it occurred that it
may be of interest to others of the same persuasion.............
Regards, Ferg
Europa A064
Message 11
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| Subject: | re: wire runs/clamps |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: cary rhodes <rhodeseng@yahoo.com>
I just used some spiral wrap around the bundle and
didn't attach it to anything.
Other than thru the grommets in the bulkheads.
Seems to lay along the bottom skin nicely.
cary
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Sky-Tec starters and solenoids |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rich Chiappe" <richc@skytecair.com>
Bob et al:
> Denis Walsh sent me 4 solenoids which were removed from service on his
Sky-Tec starter.
Dennis called me and we had a good discussion. A very honorable man whose
business I appreciate. One thing Dennis did share with me though was that
the first 3 solenoids replaced on his starter did not come from Sky-Tec. It
turns out he was able to purchase substitute product from his local auto
parts store and make the repairs himself so as it turns out, Sky-Tec cannot
account for the quality of those solenoids. I think he was planning on
sending you only Sky-Tec solenoids, but I cannot confirm this. I also
clarified a misunderstanding (I think successfully) in explaining that
Sky-Tec had, in fact recut (or replaced) his starter's mount to include the
new machining for improved solenoid performance though we failed to
communicate such at the time.
> I've not had time to examine them closely but the solenoid core of one was
detached such that it could be removed.
> The bore in which these cores operate seem to be lined with brass sleeves.
The sleeve is fabricated from sheet material.
> I peeled a corner away from the bore wall...
Let me save some time/effort: because that's not where the vibration issue
presents itself.
Cut away the rear end of the solenoid as shown in the attached photograph
and note 'pitting' to the black insulator around the "T" of the plunger
contactor as it sits in its just-held-off-rested position.
Without any cutting you can also simply detect the pitting by rotating the
plunger (on any of the units that have not separated) and begin to push the
plunger in. Within 1/16" or so of 'rest position', you may detect a 'notch'.
If you do not detect the notch, then consider yourself among the 25,000 or
so Sky-Tec LS/PM starter customers that doesn't have a vibration/solenoid
pitting issue. If you detect the notch, then your starter was in a unique
environment that allowed the solenoid to vibrate to a greater degree than we
had originally designed the starter to withstand. We will gladly replace
the notched solenoid and modify (or replace) your starter's mount with one
which should eliminate any future pitting (investing in a dynamic prop
balancing would help ensure so). But please ensure it is one of our factory
original solenoids (please do not repair yours in the field with automotive
solenoids - to say the least, quality is not consistent in the automotive
supply industry).
I hope this helps!
My thanks to those of you who continue to be so supportive of our products
and responsive to Sky-Tec's service.
If I can be of service, please don't hesitate to give me a call.
Sincerely,
- Rich Chiappe
Sky-Tec
350 Howard Clemons Rd
Granbury, Texas 76048
(800) 476-7896
richc@skytecair.com
www.skytecair.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Routing wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:22 PM 8/26/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
>
>Bob,
> I appreciate your answering many of the general (and sometimes
>repetitive) questions with regard to wiring standards and acceptable
>methods. My machine is a composite (glass + some foam) structure. I have
>drilled several galleries through the control and fiselage structures of
>about 3/16" diameter for future channeling of accessory units. I also
>contemplated using heatshrink tubing as guide for installing long runs from
>extremity to fuselage centre - it is light, will not likely encounter
>shrinkworthy temps, and is easily fixed into place with epoxy (I am
>fortunate to have long runs available).
> However, once these break out into the open fuselage bewhind the
>cockpit I should have a regularly-spaced method of fixing to the structure.
>Can I just spot-epoxy the tubing at say 9inch intervals - or is there a
>superior standard to which I should adhere?
There's probably lots of ways to do this. Many have run various
tubing (nylaflow is one of my favorites) along a wire path and
stuck it down with periodic "x" strips of glass tape
and expoxy.
I'm working on a supply of bond studs that can be stuck to
any handy surface to provide a moderately structural support
for Adel clamps that in turn can anchor any kind of tube
(fluid or wiring conduit) or the wire bundle itself.
See:
http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_A.jpg
http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_B.jpg
If I can get these parts in any reasonable quantity
to justify cataloging them and at a price attractive
to the builders, I'll be putting them up on my website.
The target pricing is $1.50 each / $10/dozen.
I'm doing some tests right now using BJ Weld as the
adhesive . . . and have some others planned using
an acrylic, solvent based adhesive too.
I'm quite confident of the epoxy based installation
technique but will have to see about the glue.
> I would not nromally ask a personal boon but it occurred that it
>may be of interest to others of the same persuasion.............
No problem. I've been fielding a number of inquiries
on this topic.
Back in the good ol' days, we'd flush-rivet an attach
bracket to the surface and use it to bolt on an Adel
clamp. I've also seen builders use Rivnuts on their
inside skin of a glass/foam structure . . . but a GOOD Rivnut
is a marginal performer in aluminum sheet and soggy
in glass sheet. Drop down to commercial aluminum Rivnuts
and you might as well stick it down with bubble gum.
Watch this space . . .
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RG58/AU vs /CU |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>Bob,
>
>What operational difference is there between RG 58 AU and RG 58 CU
>coax. Before I bought the Aeroelectric Connection, I glassed in at
>intervals a length of RG 58 CU for my vor localizer feed line. It would
>be a real pain to remove the CU and replace it with AU.
Don't worry about it. There's no performance difference.
If you ever run in any new coax in the future,
consider RG400 or RG142.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Narco VOR Receiver Problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
I have a friend who has a really nice RV6 that is having a problem receiving
VOR signals properly.
It is a Narco MK12D+ with Shark IN443A indicator and separate glideslope
receiver.
The problem is, the indicator works correctly when flying a localizer. But
no matter whether far or close to a VOR antenna, the CDI just indicates all
over the place. When testing with a VOR test set, it works correctly, but
when at a VOT, it does not work.
He has replaced the antenna and all cabling. The avionics tech says it
works correctly using the test set (but it only transmits 0 and 180 degree
radials).
Has anybody seen this before?
Ronnie Brown
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Skytec Starter Solenoids |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
The problem as described in earlier posts with solenoid failures sounds just
like my problem - EXCEPT my starter was new (or rather it was made in 1999
and my Velocity's engine wasn't started until this year). On the 2nd start
of the engine, the solenoid clicked and nothing happened. After waiting a
couple of minutes, it worked. For the first 40 hours, my starter was
sporadic - some times it worked - sometimes it didn't. Didn't seem to matter
if it was cold or hot.
After calling Skytec, the technician said it sounded like my engine was out
of balance - and described the vibration damage problem with their
solenoids - great - but my engine and starter were new. He sent me a new
solenoid free of charge and asked for my old one back.
The new solenoid has worked perfectly (40 hours).
Ronnie Brown
| ________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
|
|
| Time: 07:18:05 PM PST US
| From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
| Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Sky-Tec starters and solenoids
|
| --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
|
| Rich,
|
| Denis Walsh sent me 4 solenoids which were removed
| from service on his Sky-Tec starter. I've not had
| time to examine them closely but the solenoid core
| of one was detached such that it could be removed.
|
| The bore in which these cores operate seem to be
| lined with brass sleeves. The sleeve is fabricated
| from sheet material. I peeled a corner away from
| the bore wall and measured a thickness of 0.015"
|
| Pushing the cores in by hand while applying pressure
| and bending moments. I was unable to sense any
| tendency to hang up.
|
| I understood your earlier post to the AeroElectric-List
| to describe vibration induced damage pattern to a plastic
| wall which would occasionally prevent full travel
| of the solenoid core.
|
| Perhaps my mental image of what you described is
| in error. Can you help me out here?
|
|
| Bob . . .
|
|
| --------------------------------------------
| ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
| ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
| ( and still understand nothing. )
| ( C.F. Kettering )
| --------------------------------------------
|
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Routing wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I'm working on a supply of bond studs that can be stuck to
> any handy surface to provide a moderately structural support
> for Adel clamps that in turn can anchor any kind of tube
> (fluid or wiring conduit) or the wire bundle itself.
>
> See:
>
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_A.jpg
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_B.jpg
>
> If I can get these parts in any reasonable quantity
> to justify cataloging them and at a price attractive
> to the builders, I'll be putting them up on my website.
>
> The target pricing is $1.50 each / $10/dozen.
Bob...lemme know if and when I can send you a check!
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 18
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Richard" <steve@oasissolutions.com>
Aircraft spruce has a similar item:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ezpoint.php
I like your design better. The holes act somewhat like a rivet, giving it
greater strength in "peel". I have to drill the spruce product to get the
same affect.
Steve Richard
steve@oasissolutions.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan
Checkoway
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Routing wires
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I'm working on a supply of bond studs that can be stuck to
> any handy surface to provide a moderately structural support
> for Adel clamps that in turn can anchor any kind of tube
> (fluid or wiring conduit) or the wire bundle itself.
>
> See:
>
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_A.jpg
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_B.jpg
>
> If I can get these parts in any reasonable quantity
> to justify cataloging them and at a price attractive
> to the builders, I'll be putting them up on my website.
>
> The target pricing is $1.50 each / $10/dozen.
Bob...lemme know if and when I can send you a check!
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Routing wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William" <wschertz@ispwest.com>
Why not insert a screw through a countersunk piece of scrap fiberglass
layup, and bond it with epoxy to the fuselage wall. Screw is captured
between 1" square fiberglass and wall of fuselage.
Bill schertz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Routing wires
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 02:22 PM 8/26/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
> >
> >Bob,
> > I appreciate your answering many of the general (and
sometimes
> >repetitive) questions with regard to wiring standards and acceptable
> >methods. My machine is a composite (glass + some foam) structure. I have
> >drilled several galleries through the control and fiselage structures of
> >about 3/16" diameter for future channeling of accessory units. I also
> >contemplated using heatshrink tubing as guide for installing long runs
from
> >extremity to fuselage centre - it is light, will not likely encounter
> >shrinkworthy temps, and is easily fixed into place with epoxy (I am
> >fortunate to have long runs available).
> > However, once these break out into the open fuselage bewhind
the
> >cockpit I should have a regularly-spaced method of fixing to the
structure.
> >Can I just spot-epoxy the tubing at say 9inch intervals - or is there a
> >superior standard to which I should adhere?
>
> There's probably lots of ways to do this. Many have run various
> tubing (nylaflow is one of my favorites) along a wire path and
> stuck it down with periodic "x" strips of glass tape
> and expoxy.
>
> I'm working on a supply of bond studs that can be stuck to
> any handy surface to provide a moderately structural support
> for Adel clamps that in turn can anchor any kind of tube
> (fluid or wiring conduit) or the wire bundle itself.
>
> See:
>
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_A.jpg
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_B.jpg
>
> If I can get these parts in any reasonable quantity
> to justify cataloging them and at a price attractive
> to the builders, I'll be putting them up on my website.
>
> The target pricing is $1.50 each / $10/dozen.
>
> I'm doing some tests right now using BJ Weld as the
> adhesive . . . and have some others planned using
> an acrylic, solvent based adhesive too.
>
> I'm quite confident of the epoxy based installation
> technique but will have to see about the glue.
>
> > I would not nromally ask a personal boon but it occurred
that it
> >may be of interest to others of the same persuasion.............
>
> No problem. I've been fielding a number of inquiries
> on this topic.
>
> Back in the good ol' days, we'd flush-rivet an attach
> bracket to the surface and use it to bolt on an Adel
> clamp. I've also seen builders use Rivnuts on their
> inside skin of a glass/foam structure . . . but a GOOD Rivnut
> is a marginal performer in aluminum sheet and soggy
> in glass sheet. Drop down to commercial aluminum Rivnuts
> and you might as well stick it down with bubble gum.
>
> Watch this space . . .
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Routing wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:54 PM 8/26/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > I'm working on a supply of bond studs that can be stuck to
> > any handy surface to provide a moderately structural support
> > for Adel clamps that in turn can anchor any kind of tube
> > (fluid or wiring conduit) or the wire bundle itself.
> >
> > See:
> >
> > http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_A.jpg
> > http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_B.jpg
> >
> > If I can get these parts in any reasonable quantity
> > to justify cataloging them and at a price attractive
> > to the builders, I'll be putting them up on my website.
> >
> > The target pricing is $1.50 each / $10/dozen.
>
>Bob...lemme know if and when I can send you a check!
The parts stash is somewhere in what appears to be
a great pile of trash in a surplus dealers "warehouse".
I stumbled on a couple of them years ago and thought
they would be useful in another project . . . never did
put them to use but they lay around in my "20-year Can"
of very assorted but sometimes useful hardware.
Ran across them in the shop while getting everything
out for putting in a new concrete floor and decided
to resurrect the search for a good application. I have
no idea what they were originally designed for
and the junk dealer doesn't either. Soooo . . . while
he's digging around for more, I'll finish figuring
out if they're useful to us.
Spent some more time on them this evening. They're
non-magnetic and soft (probably aluminum . . . and
not real hard at that. Dead smooth on bottom flat
and juncture between stud and base is smooth
with very uniform radius (not spot welded)
see:
http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_C.jpg
http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_D.jpg
Given shape and finish of threads with other
observed features I'll guess they are aluminum
of an alloy suited for cold forming as a single
piece part. As soon as the JB Weld has cured
on the test sample, I'll pull it apart . . .
or try to.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Routing wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:49 PM 8/26/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William" <wschertz@ispwest.com>
>
>Why not insert a screw through a countersunk piece of scrap fiberglass
>layup, and bond it with epoxy to the fuselage wall. Screw is captured
>between 1" square fiberglass and wall of fuselage.
>Bill schertz
Do up some samples and see how much "oomph" it takes
to pull it off straight (pure tension), sidways
(pure shear) and pushing it over (bending). If
you like the numbers you see, then this will
work for you. I'm expecting tensile and shear
strengths on the order of 200-500 pounds (at
160F) and expect to see the threaded stud bend
before the bond tears loose.
Bob . . .
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | 760 VHF installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:09 PM 8/26/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.
>What would you think a radio shop would charge to look at it and tweak the
>system and check the antenna/cables for proper grounding?
>
>John
How is the radio performing for you? Do you know
a 'ham' that might have a VSWR meter you can put into
your antenna line? That's what an avionics shop would
do . . . or put an antenna analyzer on it. Have no
experience with current charges but I'd bet their
shop rates are $50/hr or more.
How is your antenna mounted and what provides
the ground plane?
Bob . . .
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Skytec Starter Solenoids |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:30 PM 8/26/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
>
>The problem as described in earlier posts with solenoid failures sounds just
>like my problem - EXCEPT my starter was new (or rather it was made in 1999
>and my Velocity's engine wasn't started until this year). On the 2nd start
>of the engine, the solenoid clicked and nothing happened. After waiting a
>couple of minutes, it worked. For the first 40 hours, my starter was
>sporadic - some times it worked - sometimes it didn't. Didn't seem to matter
>if it was cold or hot.
>
>After calling Skytec, the technician said it sounded like my engine was out
>of balance - and described the vibration damage problem with their
>solenoids - great - but my engine and starter were new. He sent me a new
>solenoid free of charge and asked for my old one back.
>
>The new solenoid has worked perfectly (40 hours).
Interesting data point. Thanks!
Bob . . .
Message 24
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
I'll take 3 dozen or so. Where do I send the money.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Checkoway
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Routing wires
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.com>
> I'm working on a supply of bond studs that can be stuck to
> any handy surface to provide a moderately structural support
> for Adel clamps that in turn can anchor any kind of tube
> (fluid or wiring conduit) or the wire bundle itself.
>
> See:
>
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_A.jpg
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/Bond_Stud_B.jpg
>
> If I can get these parts in any reasonable quantity
> to justify cataloging them and at a price attractive
> to the builders, I'll be putting them up on my website.
>
> The target pricing is $1.50 each / $10/dozen.
Bob...lemme know if and when I can send you a check!
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Starter Contactor Mounting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom..." <tsled@pacbell.net>
Hiya Mr. Robert,
I need my starter to remain engaged for several seconds as I am spinning up
a Turbine. I think it would be best to switch to the contactor you
described as "Bullett-proof". My question is does this contactor need the
diodes as you have on the "standard" contactor?
Thanks for the Aeroelectric-List,
Tom...
< If you ever stick this contactor, you might consider
< replacing with this intermittent duty style:
< http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/s702-1l.jpg
< which is about as bullet-proof a starter contactor
< as you can buy.
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