Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:50 AM - Re: MAC elevator trim rocker switch (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
2. 07:04 AM - Re: Re: Wire and Fuse Size for E-bus (follow up) (John Schroeder)
3. 07:30 AM - Re: tri-positon switch location (Bob Kuc)
4. 07:43 AM - Re: aeroflash strobes with Nova X-Pac 904 (flmike)
5. 08:11 AM - Re: Antenna Placement (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 09:36 AM - Re: tri-positon switch location (Robinson, Chad)
7. 11:19 AM - less expensive power supply with Aeroflash heads (czechsix@juno.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | MAC elevator trim rocker switch |
tests=AWL,BAYES_01,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,
USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Happened to me in my rv at cruise. Although it was not the mac rocker
switch, it was a micro switch in my passenger stick. Trim went to the stops
before I could get the breaker pulled.
I slowed down very quickly, and the stick force was as strong as I have ever
had any stick force.
I landed, disconnected the pass stick, and pressed on.
Mike Stewart
Rv-6a
-----Original Message-----
From: EddyFernan@aol.com [mailto:EddyFernan@aol.com]
Subject: AeroElectric-List: MAC elevator trim rocker switch
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: EddyFernan@aol.com
Bob & list,
Just wondering if anyone out there flying with the MAC trim have ever had a
problem with the elevator switch sticking and going full up or down.
One scenario might be that you are setting up for cruise flight and while
trimming the plane for level flight the trim switch goes to full down
position.
Or is this a very remote possibility? I'm using Z-11 architecture and B &
C's toggles for everything except the elevator trim so that I have a
different
feel to the switch compared to the flaps for instance.
What would be a precaution for this?
Eddy Fernandez
RV-9a
Wiring & more wiring
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Wire and Fuse Size for E-bus (follow up) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Bob's solution is pretty much what we are planning - Z-14 with no crossfeed
for starting. We will have an EFIS and a FADEC. One channel of the fadec is
on the #2 electrical system, as are all of the avionics, including EFIS.
#1 Battery and alternator will be on for start and the #2 battery only on
line for start. This looks suspiciously like an avionics bus with its own
switch. :-)). This will enable the EFIS to be available, if desired, for
start and one channel of the FADEC will have normal battery voltage for
starting. Once the engine is started and stable, we'll bring the #2
alternator on line. For the time being, we'll try to use a 17AH RG battery
for starting (#1) and the same battery for the #2 to keep Bob's rotation
scheme.
Love that Z-14!
Bob: Did you ever get some data and info from Aerosance on the FADEC?
John
> Given that your second alternator is
> so robust, Z-14 is the best option even if the
> aux battery is a small one.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: tri-positon switch location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Kuc" <bkuc1@tampabay.rr.com>
>
> > So the ideal switch would be a left/right to set parameters
> > and push to set type function.
>
> Sounds like a job for a rotary encoder. That what most of these devices
use, and most encoders have a momentary pushbutton.
>
Yes, I have seen some rotary encoders however I do not recall the push part
of it or the ones that have (mom) left and (mom) right and (mom) push. My
ford radio has a rotary encoder. Continuous right or left for volume and
then push to turn it on/off.
---
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: aeroflash strobes with Nova X-Pac 904 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
The Nova X-Pac 904 will reduce the power to the strobe
heads if only two outlets are activated, but it can
be tricked into delivering full power to two heads
according to the engineer at Nova.
Emergency vehicle strobe heads cannot handle as much
energy as the Whelen aviation heads, so the power
reducing feature is incorporated to avoid damaging the
standard 20 Watt automotive heads.
To override this feature, program the power supply as
though you are driving four heads (two pairs of two)
and hook up each strobe to one of the pair outputs,
i.e. Quad Flash, 1 & 3 alt 2 &4. Hook up one strobe
to output 1 and the other to output 4. This gives
full power (45 Watts) to each head. If desired, you
can wire up a switch to allow selection of a low power
(two head) mode.
Obviously you only want to do this if you are using
the Whelen aviation heads. If using the lower power
Aeroflash or automotive heads, save money and buy the
lower power 604 (or similar) supply.
BTW, as someone else mentioned, Chief has the Whelen
all-in-one heads on sale right now. Good deal if you
can consider any Whelen aviation item a "good deal".
Mike
RV-6A
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Placement |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:58 PM 9/4/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Brian Reiter <reitersbb@yahoo.com>
>
>Im sure this has been talked about before but I cant find what Im looking
>for in the archives. On an RV how far apart should my antennas be. Im
>looking at 2 Comm Antennas under seats & Nav Antenna under horizontal
>stabilizer.
From a performance perspective, radiation patterns in the
horizontal plane will be most affected by close spacing
of two antennas in the same frequency range. So two
comm antennas want to be as far apart as practical. All
other antennas (mb 75mHz, vor back in tail, transponder 1030 mHz)
are in no particular position to affect each other either
because of physical distance and/or frequency difference.
>Can my marker beacon ant. be close to the comm antennas?
yes
> I'd like to put it between them under the seats. How far does the
> Transponder antenna need to be from others?
From a practical perspective, a wet string hung out
the window will communicate with a station closer
than the horizon. Put them where they fit best
and you have a 99% chance of satisfactory performance.
The major hardware risk comes from getting comm antennas
so close together that there is major power coupling during
transmit on one radio to the receiver front end on the
other radio . . . you can pop the receiver's input
transistor. But anything over a foot apart will be fine.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | tri-positon switch location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robinson, Chad" <crobinson@rfgonline.com>
> > > So the ideal switch would be a left/right to set parameters
> > > and push to set type function.
> >
> > Sounds like a job for a rotary encoder. That what most of
> > these devices use, and most encoders have a momentary pushbutton.
> >
> Yes, I have seen some rotary encoders however I do not recall
> the push part of it or the ones that have (mom) left and (mom)
> right and (mom) push. My ford radio has a rotary encoder.
> Continuous right or left for volume and then push to turn it
> on/off.
Just be aware that unless you use an optical encoder (Grayhill sells these through
DigiKey, plan on $40 or so) the signals they put out are typically fairly
"dirty" and their reliability often isn't very high. For low-voltage low-amperage
signals such as configuration settings on a GPS unit they're fine, especially
with debounce circuitry. But I sure as heck wouldn't use one to control my
electronic ignition system.
Regards,
Chad
Message 7
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| Subject: | less expensive power supply with Aeroflash heads |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys, I did quite a bit of research before getting the XPak 904 and documented
it in nauseating detail in the RV List archives, search for "cometflash on a beer
budget". There were 2 or 3 posts with this subject line which will probably
answer all your questions and some you haven't thought of yet : ) No reason
to say it all over again here, but a few points of interest:
You're correct that the Aeroflash bulbs cannot handle the output of the 904....based
on their specs it would burn them up pretty fast. Go with Whelen heads...I
got 'em cheap at a salvage yard (strobes usually survive airplane accidents,
so they have lots laying around).
Yes these commercial power supplies have lots of neato strobe patterns but not
all of them are legal for aircraft use. The regs spell out the acceptable flash
rates (and I quoted them in the aformentioned archived material). If I recall
correctly, the Xpak 904's "low power" mode had an unacceptably high flash
rate so I would not use it.
As for reducing the power output when only two strobe heads are installed, this
depends on how you configure it. The 904 *can be* configured for full output
meant for 4 strobes into only two strobes, which is the beauty of it, because
the Whelen heads can handle this amount of energy (it's the same as what they
get from Whelen's top of the line power supply, the HDA-CF Cometflash system).
If you get a different power supply, you're on your own for making sure it meets
the requirements and is compatible with the heads you're driving for power,
flash rate, etc. NOVA has excellent customer support and the archived stuff I
wrote a couple years ago is based on lengthy discussions with Eugene Able at
NOVA.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D in painting hell...
Time: 12:49:18 PM PST US
From: Sigma Eta Aero <sigmatero@yahoo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: less expensive power supply with Aeroflash heads
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sigma Eta Aero <sigmatero@yahoo.com>
Just got off the phone with Nova's tech guy and he pulled up the Aeroflash strobe
specs and indeed the 90 watt X-Pac looks like it's a little hot for these.
Called Strobes-N-More and it sounds like the best bang for the buck here is their
EPS-40X Series which has the nice adjustable patterns and should fire up the
10 joules just fine. About right if you don't need the blinding Whelans. Plus
you can choose from lots of neato strobe patterns :)
It has an output energy of 34 joules. I assume that the FAA reqs means 20 joules
*total* between the two strobes, right? That's the way the Aeroflashes get
away with double 10 jouled ones??
All said and done it's about $305 for this setup which is a lot nicer than $772
for the Whelans and $430 for the Aeroflashes (with their supply).
Don't want to get caught in the TANSTAAFL so what am I missing here?
Thanks.
Joa
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