Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:21 AM - DIY Audio Isolation Amplifier question (Charlie Kuss)
2. 08:28 AM - Re: Connecting Whelen Strobes (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 09:56 AM - Re: DIY Audio Isolation Amplifier question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 10:53 AM - Resolver vs Converter education (Ralph E. Capen)
5. 01:28 PM - Re: Resolver vs Converter education (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 01:39 PM - Re: Resolver vs Converter education (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 03:08 PM - Resolver vs Converter => composite? (Ralph E. Capen)
8. 03:19 PM - Instrument cutouts (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
9. 04:43 PM - H10-40 Headsets for sale (Sold) (Fred Stucklen)
10. 04:50 PM - Re: DIY Audio Isolation Amplifier question (Charlie Kuss)
11. 05:21 PM - Suitability of a computer serial mouse wiring harness for (Charlie Kuss)
12. 05:45 PM - Re: Suitability of a computer serial mouse wiring (Jim Streit)
13. 07:46 PM - connecting Whelen strobes (2) (BAKEROCB@aol.com)
14. 08:48 PM - Re: connecting Whelen strobes (2) (Larry Bowen)
15. 08:56 PM - Re: Resolver vs Converter => composite? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 08:58 PM - Re: Connecting Whelen Strobes (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 09:06 PM - King KX 145 push to talk (Jeff Deuchar)
Message 1
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| Subject: | DIY Audio Isolation Amplifier question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Bob,
I have a neophyte's question. How do I split the output from your stereo DIY audio
isolation amplifier to two headsets? Am I to route the output into a stereo
intercom to accomplish this?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A cockpit systems stuff
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Connecting Whelen Strobes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:21 AM 9/25/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>
>I'm installing the light/strobe in the rudder and am confused about this
>drain wire.
>
>I found the post below in the archives that asks many of the same
>questions I have, but I didn't find a reply to questions 1-5. Anyone
>know?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls,
>III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> >Bob/Others - First - I bleieve you recommend attaching both ends of the
>
>Whelen >strobe shielding on composites. What's the best way to attach
>the AL
>foil,
> >solder wire to it? I've installed a Molex connector for service at the
>
> >strake-wing junction, what kind of connector would you recommend there,
>
> >another Molex? And finally, would it be sufficient to put a ring
>terminal
> >under the mounting screw for the ground connection at the light
>fixture,
> >or should I solder the sheild to the housing, or what?
>
> There is a bare, stranded wired IN ADDITION to the three insulated
>wires
> under the shield. This forth wire is called a "drain wire" and its
>purpose
> is to provide you with a convenient means for making electrical
>connection
> to the shield-foil which is, as you've noted, impossible to make
> connection with. You can extend the drain wire with a short piece of
> wire, install a ring terminal and attach to mounting screw for
>fixture.
> If you DON'T do this, in all probability, you won't know the
>difference.>>
>
>6/29/2003
>
>Hello Bob Nuckolls and Bret Ferrell, I'd like to flog this horse a few
>more
>lashes.
>
>1) Bob Nuckolls really says the drain wire should be attached at both
>ends on
>a composite aircraft? But not on a metal aircraft? Why?
Actually, the answer was a tad short on info . . . if the
fixture is mounted on an insulated surface (either composite
airplane or composite tip cap on a metal airplane) it is
sometimes helpful to ground the base of the strobe lamp
assembly to the drain wire that brings strobe power
out to the fixture . . . back in the 60's when strobes
were the exception as opposed to the rule, we went through
some gyrations to reduce the "flash pop" noise that would
appear in the headphones when tuned to weak stations. Extending
the shield ground to the strobe base -AND- adding a conductive mesh
to the inside surface of the strobe lamp lens did help but didn't
reduce it to zero.
The full answer should say, it won't hurt to ground your
otherwise insulated strobe fixture to the shield of the
strobe feeder . . . but it may not help a darn thing either.
If the fixture is mounted to a metalic surface that is
common to the airframe, don't hook your remote end shield
drain to anything . . .
>2) When one receives the strobe light installation kit from Whelen the
>cable
>already has two AMP plastic 3 wire connectors attached, one on each end.
>These
>
>connectors are the ones that plug into the mating 3 wire connectors at
>the
>strobe light ends. After cutting the cable somewhere in the middle and
>snaking
>
>those two cut ends through the airframe to the vicinity of the strobe
>power
>supply one installs the other two (different) appropriate 3 wire
>connectors
>provided by Whelen and plugs the cables into the power supply.
Sounds like a good plan to me . . .
>3) The installation instructions say that the drain wire should be
>connected
>to the housing / mounting of the power supply. Easy enough to do by
>leaving
>the drain wire longer when you cut the cable, strip it, and install the
>3 wire
>
>connectors that plug into the power supply.
. . . another good plan. Somebody goofed when
they designed that system. The connectors at the
power supply should have been 4-pin devices with a
pin dedicated to the shield ground. Actually, if
one had a schematic of the power supply, you may
find that the black wire in the strobe cable is
internally connected to case ground. If this is
true, then your shield drain wire COULD be legitimately
crimped into the connector pin along with the black wire.
>4) But out at the strobe light end of the cable where the Whelen
>installed
>connectors are, Whelen has left no access to the drain wire. I suppose
>one could
>
>cut back the plastic covering, remove the aluminum shield, attach a
>short
>wire to the now exposed drain wire, and then attach that short wire to
>some metal
>
>part of the strobe light housing, but I find this action both puzzling
>and
>unnecessary.
Strip back 6" of outer jacket, remove all exposed shield foil.
Cut inner conductors to about 1.5" and install connector.
this leaves you a 6" pigtail of shield drain wire to apply
terminal and bolt to base.
>5) Whelen has thousands of these units in service throughout the skies
>mounted on both metal surfaces and composite wing tips. I am unaware of
>any need
>to
>go through the additonal effort of connecting the drain wire to the
>metal
>light housing out at the strobe light end. Can anyone show me different?
Depends on how you define "need" . . . virtually EVERY airplane
I rent has some kind of audible noise in the audio that
comes from some other system. Most of the time, it's too low
to be a nuisance compared to cabin noise. Some times it's audible
but considered too small to be worth the labor of chasing it out
of the system.
The technique we're discussing has more to do with craftsmanship
founded on an understanding of the physics and nothing to do with
a personal perception of need or utility. Lots of airplanes
fly satisfactorily without paint, spinners, wheel pants, or even
an electrical system. Airplanes that DO have these features are
crafted by individuals who satisfied their own perceptions of utility
that may well differ from yours. If you want to let your strobe
shields dangle, it is after all an OBAM aircraft . . . but
when it's not hard to do, why not?
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: DIY Audio Isolation Amplifier question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:08 AM 9/25/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>Bob,
> I have a neophyte's question. How do I split the output from your stereo
> DIY audio isolation amplifier to two headsets? Am I to route the output
> into a stereo intercom to accomplish this?
Two mono headsets or stereo headsets. Do you have an
intercom selected? Stereo or Mono? The last two
pages of http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9009/9009-700C.pdf
illustrate variations on these themes.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 4
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<avionics-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Resolver vs Converter education |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
My UPSAT SL30 outputs both converter and resolver signals for an external CDI.
That and my GX60 are switched through the ACU for input to the whatever brand
CDI.
I have a NSD-1000 HSI that I am installing in the panel of my RV6A which takes
both of these signal types - this is intended to be the primary CDI. The Narco
NAV122D/GPS that I have will also take these signals as inputs.
The instructions for my SL30 indicate that the resolver signals need to be calibrated
and should not be switched. These instructions also state that supplemental
CDI's should use converter signals only.
I'm trying to understand the functionality provided by these different type of
signals....
Are they complementary - or similar in functionality? Can one set of signals be
used without the other?
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
Soooooo many little wires
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Resolver vs Converter education |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:53 PM 9/25/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
><recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Fellow listers,
>
>My UPSAT SL30 outputs both converter and resolver signals for an external
>CDI. That and my GX60 are switched through the ACU for input to the
>whatever brand CDI.
>
>I have a NSD-1000 HSI that I am installing in the panel of my RV6A which
>takes both of these signal types - this is intended to be the primary
>CDI. The Narco NAV122D/GPS that I have will also take these signals as
>inputs.
>
>The instructions for my SL30 indicate that the resolver signals need to be
>calibrated and should not be switched. These instructions also state that
>supplemental CDI's should use converter signals only.
>
>I'm trying to understand the functionality provided by these different
>type of signals....
>
>Are they complementary - or similar in functionality? Can one set of
>signals be used without the other?
"resolver" data is a throwback to omni-bearing-selection technology
that goes all the way back to the vacuum tube "Super-Homers" and
"Omingators" of the early 60's that began with 4-tap, 360-degree
rotation potentiometers and ultimately evolved to the rotary transformer
shaft encoders like those shown here:
http://www.controlsciences.com/resolvers.html#resolver
A resolver is part of the mechanism that gets operated by
turning the OBS selector knob on an indicator while the
rotating bearing ring moves to show presently selected
omni bearing radial.
The VOR radial data exists in EVERY vor receiver in the
form of two signals (1) a 30 Hz sinewave generated from the
the relative filed strength of received signal based on
rotation of the transmitting antenna and the receiver's
relative position around the trans (2) a 10 Khz
signal FM modulated with another 30 Hz signal
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>Soooooo many little wires
>
>
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Resolver vs Converter education |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:53 PM 9/25/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
><recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Fellow listers,
>
>My UPSAT SL30 outputs both converter and resolver signals for an external
>CDI. That and my GX60 are switched through the ACU for input to the
>whatever brand CDI.
>
>I have a NSD-1000 HSI that I am installing in the panel of my RV6A which
>takes both of these signal types - this is intended to be the primary
>CDI. The Narco NAV122D/GPS that I have will also take these signals as
>inputs.
>
>The instructions for my SL30 indicate that the resolver signals need to be
>calibrated and should not be switched. These instructions also state that
>supplemental CDI's should use converter signals only.
>
>I'm trying to understand the functionality provided by these different
>type of signals....
>
>Are they complementary - or similar in functionality? Can one set of
>signals be used without the other?
"resolver" data is a throwback to omni-bearing-selection technology
that goes all the way back to the vacuum tube "Super-Homers" and
"Omingators" of the early 60's that began with 4-tap, 360-degree
rotation potentiometers and ultimately evolved to the rotary transformer
shaft encoders like those shown here:
http://www.controlsciences.com/resolvers.html#resolver
A resolver is part of the mechanism that gets operated by
turning the OBS selector knob on an indicator while the
rotating bearing ring moves to show presently selected
omni bearing radial.
The VOR radial data exists in EVERY vor receiver in the
form of two signals (1) a 30 Hz sinewave generated from the
the relative filed strength of received signal based on
rotation of the transmitting antenna and the receiver's
relative position around the ground based transmitter's
location (2) a 10 Khz signal FM modulated with another
30 Hz signal that provides a fixed reference signal.
The combination of these two signals is COMPOSITE raw
data which can be resolved by a variety of digital and
analog converter techniques to display present bearing
from the omni transmitter.
While the so called resolver signals are sensitive to
the effects of poor switching techniques, this is not
a reason to deliberately avoid switches. There
are dozens of TSO'd indicator selector switches that
allow a single resolver-based CDI/OBS indicator to
be shared by both VOR and GPS receivers. However,
you generally cannot drive TWO indicators from one
set of resolver outputs while you can drive multiple
indicators from a single output of composite data.
If your desire is to use the single indicator for both
VOR and GPS displays, you can switch the instrument
between the two receivers . . . I'd opt for switching
the COMPOSITE data line . . . much simpler than dealing
with all the separate wires needed to switch the resolver,
pointer and flag signals.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Resolver vs Converter => composite? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Bob,
Thanks for your info.....My intent is to use the Narco as a backup CDI as it
has switchable external inputs with the NSD1000 HSI as the primary CDI
device.
Now my new confusion.....
You reference a composite data line - the stuff that I have looks like six
resolver (listed as rotor and stator yadayada) signals and 12 converter
signals (listed as gs up+ gs dn+ etc) with no listings of composite per se
although there is a listing for a serial connection for a resolver....is
this what you mean by composite?
The NSD 1000 does not accept composite input nor does the Narco NAV122D/GPS,
which means that in order to make this work the way I want - I need to
switch all 18 lines for the input as well as the stuff in the NAV122 right?!
Thanks again,
Ralph Capen
Message 8
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| Subject: | Instrument cutouts |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
Neville,
I waited to cut out my panel until I had my instruments and I am very glad I
did. I have a very crowded IFR panel in my RV-6 tip-up. With instruments in
hand I realized some were a lot deeper than anticipated and required cutting
the sub-panel. My initial plan was changed to clear panel braces, clear tip-up
hinges and glare shield reinforcements, and look good. I also canted my
radio stack 17 degrees toward the pilot for better viewing and that further
modified my initial panel plan. Waiting to cut my panel also enabled me to take
advantage of new technology.
Peter
RV-6, finishing wiring
Clearwater, FL
Message 9
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| Subject: | H10-40 Headsets for sale (Sold) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
The headsets are sold.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 54 Hrs
Time: 05:45:10 AM PST US
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject: H10-40 Headsets for sale
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic
IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Listers,
I have two H10-40 headsets that I am no longer using, and would like
to
sell. Both are a few years old, but in excellent condition. One has a
head
pad and gel ear muffs. Both have foam mike filters.
I'm asking $150.00 each, or $275.00 for both. Anybody interested
should
contact me off the list at the email address below.
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 54 Hrs
fred.stucklen@utcfuelcells.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: DIY Audio Isolation Amplifier question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>At 10:08 AM 9/25/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Bob,
>> I have a neophyte's question. How do I split the output from your stereo
>> DIY audio isolation amplifier to two headsets? Am I to route the output
>> into a stereo intercom to accomplish this?
>
> Two mono headsets or stereo headsets. Do you have an
> intercom selected? Stereo or Mono? The last two
> pages of http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9009/9009-700C.pdf
> illustrate variations on these themes.
>
> Bob . . .
Bob,
I currently own a mono headset and was given a mono intercom. However, I will
be upgrading to stereo components before my project is finished. The short answer
is - stereo. However, can I make it so that it will accept either type? I
have already printed out the web link mentioned above. I intend to build the
stereo version of the amp.
Charlie
Message 11
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| Subject: | Suitability of a computer serial mouse wiring harness |
for
aircraft use
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Listers,
I was pondering how to wire my Ray Allen stick grips today. While rummaging around
my odds and ends box, I came across a wiring harness for a computer mouse.
Specifically, this mouse is designed to connect to a serial port on a PC style
computer. The harness has a very nice 9 pin D-sub female connector and back
shell attached. It's wires are rather small gauge but are color coded. The harness
does have a nice outer sheath protecting the harness. Best of all, the entire
harness is quite thin.
Does anyone know what gauge wire is used in these devices? I don't have any strippers
that go down that small. If the wire gauge is sufficient, I'd like to
try using this item to extend the wires from my stick grip out of the control
stick. Any suggestions (pro or con) will be appreciated.
Charlie Kuss
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Suitability of a computer serial mouse wiring |
harness for aircraft use
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
Hey Charlie, Check out gary Newsteads site. He did the very same thing.
You can check with him for the details
http://www.jlc.net/~fcs/images/avionics/e_aileronsrvo.jpg
http://www.jlc.net/~fcs/images/avionics/e_srvoleads.jpg
http://www.jlc.net/~fcs/images/avionics/e_srvobrkt2.jpg
http://www.jlc.net/~fcs/images/avionics/e_srvobrkt2.jpg
http://www.jlc.net/~fcs/images/avionics/e_srvorouting.jpg
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>Listers,
>I was pondering how to wire my Ray Allen stick grips today. While rummaging around
my odds and ends box, I came across a wiring harness for a computer mouse.
Specifically, this mouse is designed to connect to a serial port on a PC style
computer. The harness has a very nice 9 pin D-sub female connector and back
shell attached. It's wires are rather small gauge but are color coded. The harness
does have a nice outer sheath protecting the harness. Best of all, the entire
harness is quite thin.
> Does anyone know what gauge wire is used in these devices? I don't have any strippers
that go down that small. If the wire gauge is sufficient, I'd like to
try using this item to extend the wires from my stick grip out of the control
stick. Any suggestions (pro or con) will be appreciated.
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | connecting Whelen strobes (2) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "Larry Bowen"
<Larry@bowenaero.com>
<< I'm installing the light/strobe in the rudder and am confused about this
drain wire. I found the post below in the archives that asks many of the same
questions I have, but I didn't find a reply to questions 1-5. Anyone
know? Larry Bowen>>
9/25/2003
Hello Larry, The points 2, 3, and 4 in my posting were not questions. They
were statements about how one can connect the strobes and (wing tip) position
lights to the power supply in a Whelen installation. I threw in a few
rhetorical questions on items 1 and 5 as challenging items and you are right, no
one
has responded to those questions.
But read my 5 items again (I'll copy them below). If you still have any
questions about your installation either post your specific questions or shoot
me
an email direct.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116
--------------PREVIOUS POST FOLLOWS
----------------------------------------------
6/29/2003
Hello Bob Nuckolls and Bret Ferrell, I'd like to flog this horse a few more
lashes.
1) Bob Nuckolls really says the drain wire should be attached at both ends on
a composite aircraft? But not on a metal aircraft? Why?
2) When one receives the strobe light installation kit from Whelen the cable
already has two AMP plastic 3 wire connectors attached, one on each end. These
connectors are the ones that plug into the mating 3 wire connectors at the
strobe light ends. After cutting the cable somewhere in the middle and snaking
those two cut ends through the airframe to the vicinity of the strobe power
supply one installs the other two (different) appropriate 3 wire connectors
provided by Whelen and plugs the cables into the power supply.
3) The installation instructions say that the drain wire should be connected
to the housing / mounting of the power supply. Easy enough to do by leaving
the drain wire longer when you cut the cable, strip it, and install the 3 wire
connectors that plug into the power supply.
4) But out at the strobe light end of the cable where the Whelen installed
connectors are, Whelen has left no access to the drain wire. I suppose one could
cut back the plastic covering, remove the aluminum shield, attach a short
wire to the now exposed drain wire, and then attach that short wire to some metal
part of the strobe light housing, but I find this action both puzzling and
unnecessary.
5) Whelen has thousands of these units in service throughout the skies
mounted on both metal surfaces and composite wing tips. I am unaware of any need
to
go through the additonal effort of connecting the drain wire to the metal
light housing out at the strobe light end. Can anyone show me different?
Message 14
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| Subject: | connecting Whelen strobes (2) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Thanks OC.
For better or worse, I just finished up the rudder light tonight. I
removed the foil, wrapped the drain around the cable, in case it's
needed later, and connected up the remaining wires as normal. The light
works fine, but I haven't hooked up the power supply yet so I don't have
a report on the strobes. And my audio is not ready yet either, which
will be the real test. And, to add another varible to the pile, I'm
using the a clone power supply
(http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/11/cat11.htm?682). The instructions
and diagrams don't address the drain wire. I've asked the strobe guy
for recommendations, but no news yet.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
>
> AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "Larry Bowen"
> <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>
> << I'm installing the light/strobe in the rudder and am
> confused about this drain wire. I found the post below in
> the archives that asks many of the same questions I have,
> but I didn't find a reply to questions 1-5. Anyone know?
> Larry Bowen>>
>
> 9/25/2003
>
> Hello Larry, The points 2, 3, and 4 in my posting were not
> questions. They
> were statements about how one can connect the strobes and
> (wing tip) position
> lights to the power supply in a Whelen installation. I threw in a few
> rhetorical questions on items 1 and 5 as challenging items
> and you are right, no one
> has responded to those questions.
>
> But read my 5 items again (I'll copy them below). If you
> still have any
> questions about your installation either post your specific
> questions or shoot me
> an email direct.
>
> 'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116
>
> --------------PREVIOUS POST FOLLOWS
> ----------------------------------------------
>
> 6/29/2003
>
> Hello Bob Nuckolls and Bret Ferrell, I'd like to flog this
> horse a few more
> lashes.
>
> 1) Bob Nuckolls really says the drain wire should be attached
> at both ends on
> a composite aircraft? But not on a metal aircraft? Why?
>
> 2) When one receives the strobe light installation kit from
> Whelen the cable
> already has two AMP plastic 3 wire connectors attached, one
> on each end. These
> connectors are the ones that plug into the mating 3 wire
> connectors at the
> strobe light ends. After cutting the cable somewhere in the
> middle and snaking
> those two cut ends through the airframe to the vicinity of
> the strobe power
> supply one installs the other two (different) appropriate 3
> wire connectors
> provided by Whelen and plugs the cables into the power supply.
>
> 3) The installation instructions say that the drain wire
> should be connected
> to the housing / mounting of the power supply. Easy enough
> to do by leaving
> the drain wire longer when you cut the cable, strip it, and
> install the 3 wire
> connectors that plug into the power supply.
>
> 4) But out at the strobe light end of the cable where the
> Whelen installed
> connectors are, Whelen has left no access to the drain wire.
> I suppose one could
> cut back the plastic covering, remove the aluminum shield,
> attach a short
> wire to the now exposed drain wire, and then attach that
> short wire to some metal
> part of the strobe light housing, but I find this action both
> puzzling and
> unnecessary.
>
> 5) Whelen has thousands of these units in service throughout
> the skies
> mounted on both metal surfaces and composite wing tips. I am
> unaware of any need to
> go through the additonal effort of connecting the drain wire
> to the metal
> light housing out at the strobe light end. Can anyone show me
> different?
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Resolver vs Converter => composite? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:07 PM 9/25/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
><recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>Thanks for your info.....My intent is to use the Narco as a backup CDI as it
>has switchable external inputs with the NSD1000 HSI as the primary CDI
>device.
>
>Now my new confusion.....
>
>You reference a composite data line - the stuff that I have looks like six
>resolver (listed as rotor and stator yadayada) signals and 12 converter
>signals (listed as gs up+ gs dn+ etc) with no listings of composite per se
>although there is a listing for a serial connection for a resolver....is
>this what you mean by composite?
>
>The NSD 1000 does not accept composite input nor does the Narco NAV122D/GPS,
>which means that in order to make this work the way I want - I need to
>switch all 18 lines for the input as well as the stuff in the NAV122 right?!
Yup. Eric Jones was working on an ECB to mount 9, dpdt relays
to accomplish this. Eric, are those still available?
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Connecting Whelen Strobes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:21 AM 9/25/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>
>I'm installing the light/strobe in the rudder and am confused about this
>drain wire.
>
>I found the post below in the archives that asks many of the same
>questions I have, but I didn't find a reply to questions 1-5. Anyone
>know?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls,
>III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> >Bob/Others - First - I bleieve you recommend attaching both ends of the
>
>Whelen >strobe shielding on composites. What's the best way to attach
>the AL
>foil,
> >solder wire to it? I've installed a Molex connector for service at the
>
> >strake-wing junction, what kind of connector would you recommend there,
>
> >another Molex? And finally, would it be sufficient to put a ring
>terminal
> >under the mounting screw for the ground connection at the light
>fixture,
> >or should I solder the sheild to the housing, or what?
>
> There is a bare, stranded wired IN ADDITION to the three insulated
>wires
> under the shield. This forth wire is called a "drain wire" and its
>purpose
> is to provide you with a convenient means for making electrical
>connection
> to the shield-foil which is, as you've noted, impossible to make
> connection with. You can extend the drain wire with a short piece of
> wire, install a ring terminal and attach to mounting screw for
>fixture.
> If you DON'T do this, in all probability, you won't know the
>difference.>>
>
>6/29/2003
>
>Hello Bob Nuckolls and Bret Ferrell, I'd like to flog this horse a few
>more
>lashes.
>
>1) Bob Nuckolls really says the drain wire should be attached at both
>ends on
>a composite aircraft? But not on a metal aircraft? Why?
Actually, the answer was a tad short on info . . . if the
fixture is mounted on an insulated surface (either composite
airplane or composite tip cap on a metal airplane) it is
sometimes helpful to ground the base of the strobe lamp
assembly to the drain wire that brings strobe power
out to the fixture . . . back in the 60's when strobes
were the exception as opposed to the rule, we went through
some gyrations to reduce the "flash pop" noise that would
appear in the headphones when tuned to weak stations. Extending
the shield ground to the strobe base -AND- adding a conductive mesh
to the inside surface of the strobe lamp lens did help but didn't
reduce it to zero.
The full answer should say, it won't hurt to ground your
otherwise insulated strobe fixture to the shield of the
strobe feeder . . . but it may not help a darn thing either.
If the fixture is mounted to a metalic surface that is
common to the airframe, don't hook your remote end shield
drain to anything . . .
>2) When one receives the strobe light installation kit from Whelen the
>cable
>already has two AMP plastic 3 wire connectors attached, one on each end.
>These
>
>connectors are the ones that plug into the mating 3 wire connectors at
>the
>strobe light ends. After cutting the cable somewhere in the middle and
>snaking
>
>those two cut ends through the airframe to the vicinity of the strobe
>power
>supply one installs the other two (different) appropriate 3 wire
>connectors
>provided by Whelen and plugs the cables into the power supply.
Sounds like a good plan to me . . .
>3) The installation instructions say that the drain wire should be
>connected
>to the housing / mounting of the power supply. Easy enough to do by
>leaving
>the drain wire longer when you cut the cable, strip it, and install the
>3 wire
>
>connectors that plug into the power supply.
. . . another good plan. Somebody goofed when
they designed that system. The connectors at the
power supply should have been 4-pin devices with a
pin dedicated to the shield ground. Actually, if
one had a schematic of the power supply, you may
find that the black wire in the strobe cable is
internally connected to case ground. If this is
true, then your shield drain wire COULD be legitimately
crimped into the connector pin along with the black wire.
>4) But out at the strobe light end of the cable where the Whelen
>installed
>connectors are, Whelen has left no access to the drain wire. I suppose
>one could
>
>cut back the plastic covering, remove the aluminum shield, attach a
>short
>wire to the now exposed drain wire, and then attach that short wire to
>some metal
>
>part of the strobe light housing, but I find this action both puzzling
>and
>unnecessary.
Strip back 6" of outer jacket, remove all exposed shield foil.
Cut inner conductors to about 1.5" and install connector.
this leaves you a 6" pigtail of shield drain wire to apply
terminal and bolt to base.
>5) Whelen has thousands of these units in service throughout the skies
>mounted on both metal surfaces and composite wing tips. I am unaware of
>any need
>to
>go through the additonal effort of connecting the drain wire to the
>metal
>light housing out at the strobe light end. Can anyone show me different?
Depends on how you define "need" . . . virtually EVERY airplane
I rent has some kind of audible noise in the audio that
comes from some other system. Most of the time, it's too low
to be a nuisance compared to cabin noise. Some times it's audible
but considered too small to be worth the labor of chasing it out
of the system.
The technique we're discussing has more to do with craftsmanship
founded on an understanding of the physics and nothing to do with
a personal perception of need or utility. Lots of airplanes
fly satisfactorily without paint, spinners, wheel pants, or even
an electrical system. Airplanes that DO have these features are
crafted by individuals who satisfied their own perceptions of utility
that may well differ from yours. If you want to let your strobe
shields dangle, it is after all an OBAM aircraft . . . but
when it's not hard to do, why not?
Bob . . .
Message 17
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| Subject: | King KX 145 push to talk |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeff Deuchar" <deucharj@telus.net>
Hi all,
Does any one have a wiring diagram for a King KX 145? If so, can you tell me which
wire(s) is for the push to talk activation?
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
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