Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:09 AM - amphenol connectors (Jones, Michael)
2. 04:17 AM - Re: 18-pole relay (Eric M. Jones)
3. 04:23 AM - Re: AOA Mice in my computer (Eric M. Jones)
4. 04:54 AM - Re: RV-List: EFIS & IFR (Ronnie Brown)
5. 05:48 AM - Re: connecting Whelen strobes (2) (Larry Bowen)
6. 05:49 AM - Re: DIY Audio Isolation Amplifier question (Mark Phillips)
7. 06:07 AM - Re: King KX 145 push to talk (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 06:11 AM - AEC server moving to new digs . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:35 AM - Fault tree (Fergus Kyle)
10. 10:35 AM - Re: B&C 20 amp vac pad major failure (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 10:35 AM - Re: amphenol connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 10:38 AM - Aux Battery for All Electric Airplane (RV-7) (Pat Hatch)
13. 11:24 AM - Re: B&C 20 amp vac pad major failure (BobsV35B@aol.com)
14. 11:43 AM - Silicone grease for crimp terminals ? (Gilles.Thesee)
15. 12:09 PM - Re:You Are In Luck (Gkb5577@aol.com)
16. 12:14 PM - Re: Silicone grease for crimp terminals ? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 12:16 PM - Re: amphenol connectors (Gkb5577@aol.com)
18. 01:02 PM - Re: Silicone grease for crimp terminals ? (Gilles.Thesee)
19. 01:43 PM - Re: Silicone grease for crimp terminals ? (Eric M. Jones)
20. 01:50 PM - Re: Silicone grease for crimp terminals ? (Scot Stambaugh)
21. 07:42 PM - Connecting Whelen Strobes (BAKEROCB@aol.com)
22. 09:04 PM - Re: Connecting Whelen Strobes (Larry Bowen)
23. 09:27 PM - Server is up in new digs . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | amphenol connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
hi all
I have the amphenol connectors for my electric gyros but don't know how to
attach wires to the amphenol connectors. Are the wires soldered or do I need
some kind of female pin to attach to the wire then insert this female pin
into the back of the connector.
thanx for the help guys
mike
NOTICE - This message is the property of HATCH. It may also be
confidential and/or privileged. If you are not the intended recipient
of this message you are hereby notified that you must not disseminate,
copy or take any action with respect to it.
If you have received this message in error please notify
HATCH immediately via mailto:MailAdmin@hatch.ca.
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 18-pole relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
> >The NSD 1000 does not accept composite input nor does the Narco
NAV122D/GPS,
> >which means that in order to make this work the way I want - I need to
> >switch all 18 lines for the input as well as the stuff in the NAV122
right?!
>
> Yup. Eric Jones was working on an ECB to mount 9, dpdt relays
> to accomplish this. Eric, are those still available?
>
> Bob . . .
Thanks Bob,
Yes, I sell them kit or assembled. Check my website please.....
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: AOA Mice in my computer |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Suitability of a computer serial mouse
wiring
> harness for aircraft use
I think this is a good way to go for a control stick. A little stereo
microscope will make stripping and soldering simple.
One other point, the little ball position sensing parts in the ball-type
mice are great low friction position sensors. The output is not analog, but
this is easy to convert to anything you want.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: EFIS & IFR |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
You would be hard pressed to find any requirements for TSO'd instruments be installed
in certified aircraft, much less homebuilts.
I would caution anyone from pressing this issue with your FSDO's and DAR's. They
may kick this up to a level that makes decisions without benefit of the regs.
And we may not like the answers. For instance, the GUIDANCE that was written
in AC 20.138 that has been adopted by many FSDO's and DAR's as THE ONLY means
of compliance for GPS installations in certified aircraft.
Ronnie Brown
Time: 03:29:30 PM PST US
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: EFIS & IFR
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
><noel@blueskyaviation.net>
>
>It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative
>and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not
>sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to
>positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or
>equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA
>positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
>IFR.
>
>I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is
>no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in
>experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR
>who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use,
>then please let me know.
>
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Noel Simmons
Where does it say that an FAA or DAR signature is needed? Don't the
standard Operating Limitations simply say something to the effect of
"Aircraft restricted to day VFR unless equipped in accordance with FAR
91.XXX", where 91.XXX lists the equipment requirements for night or
IFR. So it is up to the pilot to decide whether the aircraft equipment
meets the requirements of FAR 91. Why make it more complicated than
that? By all means exercise good judgement and common sense when you
decide whether the aircraft is suitably equipped or not, but don't try to
fight needless bureaucratic battles.
Kevin Horton
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | connecting Whelen strobes (2) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
The final answer from the factory regarding the drain wire:
You can ground it at both ends.
Thanks, Louis
www.Strobesnmore.com
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Larry Bowen said:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
> <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>
> Thanks OC.
>
> For better or worse, I just finished up the rudder light tonight. I
> removed the foil, wrapped the drain around the cable, in case it's
> needed later, and connected up the remaining wires as normal. The light
> works fine, but I haven't hooked up the power supply yet so I don't have
> a report on the strobes. And my audio is not ready yet either, which
> will be the real test. And, to add another varible to the pile, I'm
> using the a clone power supply
> (http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/11/cat11.htm?682). The instructions
> and diagrams don't address the drain wire. I've asked the strobe guy
> for recommendations, but no news yet.
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
>>
>> AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "Larry Bowen"
>> <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>>
>> << I'm installing the light/strobe in the rudder and am
>> confused about this drain wire. I found the post below in
>> the archives that asks many of the same questions I have,
>> but I didn't find a reply to questions 1-5. Anyone know?
>> Larry Bowen>>
>>
>> 9/25/2003
>>
>> Hello Larry, The points 2, 3, and 4 in my posting were not
>> questions. They
>> were statements about how one can connect the strobes and
>> (wing tip) position
>> lights to the power supply in a Whelen installation. I threw in a few
>> rhetorical questions on items 1 and 5 as challenging items
>> and you are right, no one
>> has responded to those questions.
>>
>> But read my 5 items again (I'll copy them below). If you
>> still have any
>> questions about your installation either post your specific
>> questions or shoot me
>> an email direct.
>>
>> 'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116
>>
>> --------------PREVIOUS POST FOLLOWS
>> ----------------------------------------------
>>
>> 6/29/2003
>>
>> Hello Bob Nuckolls and Bret Ferrell, I'd like to flog this
>> horse a few more
>> lashes.
>>
>> 1) Bob Nuckolls really says the drain wire should be attached
>> at both ends on
>> a composite aircraft? But not on a metal aircraft? Why?
>>
>> 2) When one receives the strobe light installation kit from
>> Whelen the cable
>> already has two AMP plastic 3 wire connectors attached, one
>> on each end. These
>> connectors are the ones that plug into the mating 3 wire
>> connectors at the
>> strobe light ends. After cutting the cable somewhere in the
>> middle and snaking
>> those two cut ends through the airframe to the vicinity of
>> the strobe power
>> supply one installs the other two (different) appropriate 3
>> wire connectors
>> provided by Whelen and plugs the cables into the power supply.
>>
>> 3) The installation instructions say that the drain wire
>> should be connected
>> to the housing / mounting of the power supply. Easy enough
>> to do by leaving
>> the drain wire longer when you cut the cable, strip it, and
>> install the 3 wire
>> connectors that plug into the power supply.
>>
>> 4) But out at the strobe light end of the cable where the
>> Whelen installed
>> connectors are, Whelen has left no access to the drain wire.
>> I suppose one could
>> cut back the plastic covering, remove the aluminum shield,
>> attach a short
>> wire to the now exposed drain wire, and then attach that
>> short wire to some metal
>> part of the strobe light housing, but I find this action both
>> puzzling and
>> unnecessary.
>>
>> 5) Whelen has thousands of these units in service throughout
>> the skies
>> mounted on both metal surfaces and composite wing tips. I am
>> unaware of any need to
>> go through the additonal effort of connecting the drain wire
>> to the metal
>> light housing out at the strobe light end. Can anyone show me
>> different?
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DIY Audio Isolation Amplifier question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
> I currently own a mono headset and was given a mono intercom. However, I will
be upgrading to stereo components before my project is finished. The short
answer is - stereo. However, can I make it so that it will accept either type?
I have already printed out the web link mentioned above. I intend to build the
stereo version of the amp.
> Charlie
You can use a transfer jack such as Mouser pt# 502-13A for mono along with pt#
502-12B (stereo jack). The transfer jack shorts the right & left channels together
when you insert the plug. One caveat- if you plug a mono plug into the
stereo jack you will short one audio channel to ground. I'm installing the little
spring-loaded jack covers
(labeled with an "S") on the stereo jacks as a reminder to not do this. These
covers are Mouser pt# 502-515
I have an AutoCAD R14 drawing of my system using Microair 760 with Bob's Audio
Iso Amp that shows the connections, if interested. This stuff is not completely
connected & tested yet- maybe tonight?! 8
)
Also, be aware that due (I believe) to a part change in the evolution of the Iso
Amp, the D-sub receptacle pins 1-8 on Bob's drawing are reversed from the actual
as-built construction. Not sure if Bob has corrected this yet, but it's
easy to chase it down on the actual board (which I have to add is an ingenious
design and a pleasure to
build- THANKS Bob!)
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: King KX 145 push to talk |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:06 PM 9/25/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeff Deuchar" <deucharj@telus.net>
>
>Hi all,
>
>Does any one have a wiring diagram for a King KX 145? If so, can you tell
>me which wire(s) is for the push to talk activation?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Jeff
>
See http://216.55.140.222/Installation_Data/KX145_KI205.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | AEC server moving to new digs . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Our server in San Diego will be pulling the plug and moving
to a new facility this evening. We expect the hardware change
to take about an hour but with a new IP address, it will take
as long as a day or two for everyone's DNS data base to be
updated.
Our old co-location host can't seem to produced a legible, logical
billing invoice . . . they have fine technical skills and
rather poor business skills. Our new host seems better at
both so we're going to give them a try. Expect a few potholes
in the data exchange highway for the next day or so.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
With my hairtigger reaction, I neatly downloaded "Fault Tree" at the behest
of some worthy on net - thinking I would be miles ahead while I had the
time.
Unfortunately, it came to pass that it was not the fault system
which the group would find useful. It now sits like Oomph in my hard disc
and I find no easy way to "uninstall" it.
Is there some knowledgeable guardian who might advise me how to dump
the megas for all time?
Regards, Ferg
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: B&C 20 amp vac pad major failure |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:14 AM 9/23/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
>
>I'm looking for someplace on the web to stash them - if anyone has a
>suggestion, let me know. Preferably someplace that you don't have to join
>to access
>At 11:11 AM 9/23/03 -0400, BobsV35B@aol.com wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
> >
> >In a message dated 9/23/03 10:03:10 AM Central Daylight Time,
> >richard@riley.net writes:
> >
> > > Basically, the nose casting broke clean through, leaving the alt sitting
> > > quietly in the engine compartment.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >Good Morning Richard,
> >
> >Since I am not smart enough to find the pictures, could you supply a bit
> more
> >detail?
> >
> >Did the break occur right at the pad, somewhere along the webs or all
> the way
> >back where the webs attach to the alternator housing itself?
> >
> >Were you able to discern any evidence of a pre-existing crack?
> >
> >That mount looks to be heck for stout!
> >
> >Amazing that it broke.
> >
> >Thanks for the warning.
> >
> >Happy Skies,
> >
> >Old Bob
> >AKA
> >Bob Siegfried
> >Ancient Aviator
The pictures can be viewed at:
http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/SD-20A.jpg
http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/SD-20B.jpg
PRELIMINARY investigation suggests that (1) there are
no casting flaws and (2) that in this particular case,
there was not a single crack but a series of three
independent failures for each of the three corners
that broke off . . . the 4th had been overstressed and
broke off with relatively low force bending applied with
pliers.
Let's be cautious with loose speculation . . . keep
in mind that thousands of these alternators are in
service over a service history of 9 years or better.
There have been only three casting failures reported
to B&C over this period of time.
There is a working hypothesis as to root cause
which will be developed and either confirmed or rejected.
This is a high priority investigation and the results
will be posted here and reported to the FAA as soon
as credible data are available.
Bob . . .
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: amphenol connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:06 AM 9/26/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
>
>hi all
>
>I have the amphenol connectors for my electric gyros but don't know how to
>attach wires to the amphenol connectors. Are the wires soldered or do I need
>some kind of female pin to attach to the wire then insert this female pin
>into the back of the connector.
>thanx for the help guys
Amphenol is a company that makes dozens of different
connectors . . . some of which are military or commercial
standards and also manufactured by dozens of other
companies. Many are available in either solder or crimped
pin styles, some connector families are available in both
styles and are interchangeable and intermateable.
You need to examine the connector in question and tell
us what numbers are stamped into the shell. Lacking such
easy identification, a digital photo would help in
advice as to it's use.
Are the pins in your connector already installed? If it's
a new connector and the pins are not loose in a bag with
other connector parts, then it's most likely a solder style
connector. Depending on how old your gyros are, they are
most likely one of these two styles:
http://www.matronics.com/aeroelectric/library/Mfgr_Data/M26482.pdf
http://www.matronics.com/aeroelectric/library/Mfgr_Data/Mil-C-5015.pdf
Modern gyros may have more exotic connectors which I can help
you identify if you can give me some markings or pictures.
Both connector styles cited above are available in solder and
crimp varieties . . . will need more data to tell you which
ones you have.
Bob . . .
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Aux Battery for All Electric Airplane (RV-7) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Here is a potential location in an RV-7 for the aux battery for an all-electric
airplane. I am wiring this airplane IAW Bob's Z-14 (Fadec) schematic using a
7.2 a.h. Panasonic.
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-pathatch
Go to RV-7 Project, then Aux Batt Holder.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: B&C 20 amp vac pad major failure |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 9/26/03 12:36:50 PM Central Daylight Time,
bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
> The pictures can be viewed at:
>
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/SD-20A.jpg
> http://216.55.140.222/Pictures/SD-20B.jpg
>
> PRELIMINARY investigation suggests that (1) there are
> no casting flaws and (2) that in this particular case,
> there was not a single crack but a series of three
> independent failures for each of the three corners
> that broke off . . . the 4th had been overstressed and
> broke off with relatively low force bending applied with
> pliers.
>
Good Afternoon Bob,
Thanks for posting those photographs.
I just checked my log book and find that I have enjoyed 1073.7 trouble free
hours since I installed my B&C SD-20 Alternator on June 9, 1999.
I did go look mine over carefully after viewing the photograph. Everything
looks perfect.
I realize it is difficult to tell from photos, but the failures appear to be
very similar to the failures that are occasionally found when the front
mounted, gear driven, alternators on the IO-520 and IO-550 Continental engines
are
improperly aligned and tightened.
I am certain that we will all be advised as to the suspected problem whenever
any information is developed.
Thanks again for letting us know where the failures occurred.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Silicone grease for crimp terminals ? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Hi Bob and all,
Seen on a French homebuilt list someone advise to grease the end of the wire
before crimping. He says they use this method in the power line business
with screw terminals.
I have the feeling this could be a "false good idea".
What's your opinion ?
Thanks,
Gilles
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re:You Are In Luck |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gkb5577@aol.com
Just bought the book Avionics Installation Handbook, Horan. Looking at the
pinout the tabs on the long P401 are numbered from L to R: R being the end at
the ant. connector, and are numbered 1 thru 22. The shorter one is P301 and the
pins are numbered FROM the R to L, with number 1 tab being nearest the ant
connector. Here you go: +14V power input=21, +14V A/C power in=3, 4ohm spkr
out=19, 500ohm aux in=13, 14,15 and 16, 500ohm phone out #1=17, 500ohm phone out
#2=18, 500ohm phone out(no further designation given)=12, A/C switched power
out=4( note is made here saying "jumper 4 to 21"), ant shield=9and 11,
Insttrument dimmer=1 and 2( here there is another note made:" for 14V, 1 to ground,
2
to dimmer, mike audio intercom=6, mike audio=5, mike key intercom=8, mike
key=7, Power Ground=22, rack ground=20, and, finally, RCVR (nav/com)antenna=10.
Hope it helps. Geoff
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Silicone grease for crimp terminals ? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:43 PM 9/26/2003 +0200, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee"
><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>Hi Bob and all,
>
>Seen on a French homebuilt list someone advise to grease the end of the wire
>before crimping. He says they use this method in the power line business
>with screw terminals.
>
>I have the feeling this could be a "false good idea".
>What's your opinion ?
can't imagine why anyone would want to do this with
a crimped terminal . . . a properly installed
crimp is gas-tight . . . anything in the joint would
be extruded out.
Bob . . .
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: amphenol connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gkb5577@aol.com
Mike: If the pins are not already in the connectors ( depends where you got
it) then it didn't come with them and you can contact lot of supply houses to
get them. I can't remember if you put the wires thru the connector holes
BEFORE you solder them but that is usually seen by a little look at the thing.
By
the way, if they are already in there then sometimes it's a bear to get them
out intact....don't have any five pin Amp126-223 or equiv. do you? Geoff
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Silicone grease for crimp terminals ? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
> >Hi Bob and all,
> >
> >Seen on a French homebuilt list someone advise to grease the end of the
wire
> >before crimping.
...............
> can't imagine why anyone would want to do this with
> a crimped terminal . . . a properly installed
> crimp is gas-tight . . . anything in the joint would
> be extruded out.
>
> Bob . . .
Thanks
Gilles
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Silicone grease for crimp terminals ? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
---Well maybe the joint is gas tight and maybe it's almost gas tight. Maybe
it's gas tight exactly under the crimp. Silicone grease would prevent the
intrusion of air and moisture and other bad stuff that gradually damages the
connection.
What's not to like? Do it!
Eric
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Silicone grease for crimp terminals ? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh@qualcomm.com>
Are you sure it is not the compound electricians use when crimping copper
terminals to Aluminum wire?
At 02:14 PM 9/26/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>At 08:43 PM 9/26/2003 +0200, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee"
> ><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
> >
> >Hi Bob and all,
> >
> >Seen on a French homebuilt list someone advise to grease the end of the wire
> >before crimping. He says they use this method in the power line business
> >with screw terminals.
> >
> >I have the feeling this could be a "false good idea".
> >What's your opinion ?
>
> can't imagine why anyone would want to do this with
> a crimped terminal . . . a properly installed
> crimp is gas-tight . . . anything in the joint would
> be extruded out.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Connecting Whelen Strobes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
<<.........skip......Strip back 6" of outer jacket, remove all exposed
shield foil.
Cut inner conductors to about 1.5" and install connector.
this leaves you a 6" pigtail of shield drain wire to apply
terminal and bolt to base.....skip......>>
9/26/2003
Hello Bob, Thanks for your clarifications and many good words on this
subject. But I just saw this nearly dead horses's ear twitch so I'm going to give
it
another lash of the whip.
What you describe above can be done, but it is a bit troublesome. Here is
why: As I decribed earlier, the Whelen strobe connecting cable comes with three
wire connectors that mate with the light end connectors already installed on
each end of the cable. No access to the drain wire is provided.
In order to do what you describe above at the light end one would have to:
1) Cut off the already installed connectors.
2) Strip cable IAW your instructions.
3) Cut wires IAW your instructions.
4) Acquire two new AMP 3 wire connectors of the right configuration (From?) .
Or alternatively remove the AMP pins or sockets (I forget which and my stuff
is out at the hangar) from the old connectors (Tool?).
5) Acquire six new pins or sockets. (From ? In what quantities?)
6) Strip inner wires as required.
7) Crimp those six pins or sockets on the inner wires.
8) Insert the pins or sockets in the right position in the AMP 3 wire
connectors. (Can be / has been screwed up by builders on the power supply end of
the
wire so also could be done on the light end of the wire. Can result in the
need to return the power supply to Whelen for repair).
9) Connect the newly installed connectors to the matching connectors on the
lights and hook up the 6 inches of drain wire as desired.
All very doable, but as I said a bit troublesome. If somebody really wants to
do this and needs help identifying the proper Amp three wire sockets and
associated pins or sockets to be used, just speak up and I'll bring my stuff home
from the hangar and put the needed info on the list.
One can buy the needed materials from Terminal Town in itsy bitsy quantities,
but the shipping will probably cost multiple times the cost of the materials
for this specific job.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Connecting Whelen Strobes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
I did exactly what you outlined below, using crimp knife terminals for
the installation of the light/strobe in the rudder. When the rudder is
removed for paint or maint., I'll be able to fish the wires out of the
bottom. The std plug was too big to do so. It wasn't a big deal....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BAKEROCB@aol.com [mailto:BAKEROCB@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 10:42 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Connecting Whelen Strobes
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
>
> AeroElectric-List message previously posted by: "Robert L.
> Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> <<.........skip......Strip back 6" of outer jacket, remove
> all exposed
> shield foil.
> Cut inner conductors to about 1.5" and install connector.
> this leaves you a 6" pigtail of shield drain wire to apply
> terminal and bolt to base.....skip......>>
>
> 9/26/2003
>
> Hello Bob, Thanks for your clarifications and many good words on this
> subject. But I just saw this nearly dead horses's ear twitch
> so I'm going to give it
> another lash of the whip.
>
> What you describe above can be done, but it is a bit
> troublesome. Here is
> why: As I decribed earlier, the Whelen strobe connecting
> cable comes with three
> wire connectors that mate with the light end connectors
> already installed on
> each end of the cable. No access to the drain wire is provided.
>
> In order to do what you describe above at the light end one
> would have to:
>
> 1) Cut off the already installed connectors.
>
> 2) Strip cable IAW your instructions.
>
> 3) Cut wires IAW your instructions.
>
> 4) Acquire two new AMP 3 wire connectors of the right
> configuration (From?) .
> Or alternatively remove the AMP pins or sockets (I forget
> which and my stuff
> is out at the hangar) from the old connectors (Tool?).
>
> 5) Acquire six new pins or sockets. (From ? In what quantities?)
>
> 6) Strip inner wires as required.
>
> 7) Crimp those six pins or sockets on the inner wires.
>
> 8) Insert the pins or sockets in the right position in the AMP 3 wire
> connectors. (Can be / has been screwed up by builders on the
> power supply end of the
> wire so also could be done on the light end of the wire. Can
> result in the
> need to return the power supply to Whelen for repair).
>
> 9) Connect the newly installed connectors to the matching
> connectors on the
> lights and hook up the 6 inches of drain wire as desired.
>
> All very doable, but as I said a bit troublesome. If somebody
> really wants to
> do this and needs help identifying the proper Amp three wire
> sockets and
> associated pins or sockets to be used, just speak up and I'll
> bring my stuff home
> from the hangar and put the needed info on the list.
>
> One can buy the needed materials from Terminal Town in itsy
> bitsy quantities,
> but the shipping will probably cost multiple times the cost
> of the materials
> for this specific job.
>
> 'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - ?/?/?
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Server is up in new digs . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Our server is back on the air at 69.63.197.134
It will take awhile for the domain name servers to tie
the IP address to aeroelectric.com but the changes
have been registered and things should be back to
better than normal by Sunday. In the mean time,
if you need anything from the site, use the IP address
above . . .
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|