Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:55 AM - Re: Re: Low voltage warning circuit (Trampas)
2. 06:15 AM - Re: Re: Dielectric grease recommendations (Trampas)
3. 06:31 AM - Re: Re: Low voltage warning circuit (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:41 AM - Re: Re: Dielectric grease recommendations (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 10:18 AM - Re: Rrelay diagram for Microair PTT (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 10:27 AM - Re: Trutrak a/p wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 10:30 AM - Re: GPS-35 / Transponder / Autopilot (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 10:33 AM - Re: GPS-35 / Transponder / Autopilot - REDUX (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 11:54 AM - Re: Re: Rrelay diagram for Microair PTT (Mark Phillips)
10. 11:59 AM - Antenna cable routing question (Mark Phillips)
11. 12:15 PM - 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon (DJB6A@cs.com)
12. 12:33 PM - Re: Re: GPS-35 / Transponder / Autopilot - REDUX (Phil Birkelbach)
13. 12:55 PM - Re: RV-List: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon (Sam Buchanan)
14. 12:58 PM - Re: diy annunciator panel for gps (CardinalNSB@aol.com)
15. 01:47 PM - Vans gauge lamps (Mark Phillips)
16. 01:56 PM - Re: Re: diy annunciator panel for gps (Greg Young)
17. 03:09 PM - Re: Vans gauge lamps (RSwanson)
18. 04:24 PM - Re: Re: RV-List: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon (Larry Bowen)
19. 04:35 PM - Re: Vans gauge lamps (Pieper_Frank)
20. 06:25 PM - Fuse Blocks, fuses, fusible links and CBs (Greg Grigson)
21. 06:51 PM - Re: Re: RV-List: 4 conductor shielded wire for (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Low voltage warning circuit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
I know this was meant for Bob, however according to his nice schematic, you
could replace R105 with a potentiometer to adjust the trigger voltage.
10.5k ~= 13V
9k ~= 11.5V
8k ~= 10.5V
Trampas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven
DiNieri
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Low voltage warning circuit
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri"
<capsteve@adelphia.net>
Bob, how could I make the low volt warning threshold adjustable or lower
than 13v?
I need a device to monitor rear batteries under load in a "rec
vehicle" and trigger a remote start at a voltage just above the typical
alarm in a large power inverter.
Steve DiNieri
Rv-6a n221rv
<snip>
I bashed this out in a hurry but I think the schematic and
BOM have been brought into agreement with present
manufacturing configuration.
See http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/lvwarn/9021-620.pdf
If you've downloaded this recently, your browser may have
the old version in cache . . . hit the reload button after
download to make sure you get the latest. The schematic
and BOM pages will have Rev A 10/2/3 in the title block
on the latest document.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Dielectric grease recommendations |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
I would also like to mention some of my experiences, although not aircraft
related.
I worked as an automobile mechanic for years, I found that wires will wick
liquid. That is a wire and insulator act just like a pipe for liquid. For
example back in the early 80's GM had a temperature sensor on their engines
that was prone to leak. It would leak slowly so most people never noticed
the leak. However what would happen is the wire for the temperature sensor
would wick the coolant from the sensor into the engine computer. Eventually
enough coolant would get into the computer to short it out.
Another example is GM's 4.3L V-6 in late 90's had a little problem where the
fuel injectors would leak. Well the fuel leaked into the electrical
connector, which at this point in automotive history are weather pack
connectors that are sealed connections. Well the gas then wicks through the
wires right back to the computer. The net result is that the gas destroys
the plastic for the connectors, and in some cases it will actually fill the
computer with an oily substance until the car no longer runs.
Like Eric said, the crimp connection is gas tight. The exposed wires which
are not crimped are not so lucky. Neither is the area between the copper and
the insulation.
Here is something more to think about, all the automobile manufactures are
going to weather pack and sealed electrical connections. Why? If you checked
the price of a weather pack connector lately you will notice they are not
cheap so why is GM and others using them on all their cars?
Trampas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric M.
Jones
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Dielectric grease recommendations
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
Many people think a dielectric grease might contaminate the surface of a
conductor. Of course this is not true, the grease merely fills in the air
gaps. Although a "proper" crimp may be gas tight, only the conductor under
the crimp is so blessed.
Under a microscope the cable will be seen to possess many small channels in
the pack. In theory, the channels can wick moisture and contaminants
(historically battery acid) into the crimp. Why is this a concern? If all
the metal in the joint were the same, we might still want to exclude water
because it can freeze and force the joint open. However, a more critical
need is to seal the airspaces because of the likelihood that electrolytic
corrosion will occur. The metal crimp itself may be aluminum or brass or
copper, the plating may be nickel or more likely tin, and the wire may be
copper, and ever nickel tin or zinc plated. So electrolytic corrosion can
occur.
Indoors this is rarely an issue, but aircraft see a lot of water in their
lives; it's a good idea to keep it out of the crimp.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
When the Okies moved to California they raised the average IQ of both
states.
---Will Rogers
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Low voltage warning circuit |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:51 AM 10/3/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
>I know this was meant for Bob, however according to his nice schematic, you
>could replace R105 with a potentiometer to adjust the trigger voltage.
>
>10.5k ~= 13V
>9k ~= 11.5V
>8k ~= 10.5V
>
>Trampas
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven
>DiNieri
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Low voltage warning circuit
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri"
><capsteve@adelphia.net>
>
>
>Bob, how could I make the low volt warning threshold adjustable or lower
>than 13v?
> I need a device to monitor rear batteries under load in a "rec
>vehicle" and trigger a remote start at a voltage just above the typical
>alarm in a large power inverter.
>
>Steve DiNieri
>Rv-6a n221rv
You can build this any way you wish. The 1% components and
the LM285 voltage reference are selected such that the
setpoint is predictable to within a few percent. Note that
the 10.5K and 2.49K resistors are the 1% voltage divider
that determine what the setpoint is for the comparator to
see 2.5 volts. If you KNOW what the desired setpoint is,
then it's relatively easy to calculate a new value for
one of the resistors as suggested above. If the setpoint
needs to be adjustable, then making R105 a combination of
say a 5K, 10 or 15 turn potentiometer and a 6.98K, 1%
resistor would give you a wide range of adjustability.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Dielectric grease recommendations |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:12 AM 10/3/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
>I would also like to mention some of my experiences, although not aircraft
>related.
>
>I worked as an automobile mechanic for years, I found that wires will wick
>liquid. That is a wire and insulator act just like a pipe for liquid. For
>example back in the early 80's GM had a temperature sensor on their engines
>that was prone to leak. It would leak slowly so most people never noticed
>the leak. However what would happen is the wire for the temperature sensor
>would wick the coolant from the sensor into the engine computer. Eventually
>enough coolant would get into the computer to short it out.
>
>Another example is GM's 4.3L V-6 in late 90's had a little problem where the
>fuel injectors would leak. Well the fuel leaked into the electrical
>connector, which at this point in automotive history are weather pack
>connectors that are sealed connections. Well the gas then wicks through the
>wires right back to the computer. The net result is that the gas destroys
>the plastic for the connectors, and in some cases it will actually fill the
>computer with an oily substance until the car no longer runs.
>
>Like Eric said, the crimp connection is gas tight. The exposed wires which
>are not crimped are not so lucky. Neither is the area between the copper and
>the insulation.
>
>Here is something more to think about, all the automobile manufactures are
>going to weather pack and sealed electrical connections. Why? If you checked
>the price of a weather pack connector lately you will notice they are not
>cheap so why is GM and others using them on all their cars?
. . . accurate but anecdotal data. . . . now, how does this
relate to the connectors, wire, sensors, operating conditions
and history of airplanes?
Interesting to think about but at the bottom line, we need to see
if there are obvious, understandable shortfalls in the current
toolbox of materials and techniques that warrant changes for
improvement.
When a need for improvement is identified, let's noodle out
root cause and see if a change of design, materials, installation
or maintenance will deal with the problem in a satisfactory
way . . . I'm not suggesting that there isn't a good place
for using dielectric or any other kind of grease. But I can
give you lots of other, direct to the point experiences
where sealants or protectants were at best marginal
performers and in some cases, made the problem WORSE.
Let's not chase boogy-beasts - the physics of the mater
is always stone-simple, the logic pointing us to the
elegant solution is easily understood.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rrelay diagram for Microair PTT |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> >Would be great though if you could add this feature to your manual since
> >as you noticed the Microair manual is pretty lacking! Im sure others that
> >arent using a separate intercom would benefit.
>
> I can do that, but it's two drawings to offer the
> variants cited above.
>
I've added a first-come/first-served PTT relay
circuit to the last page of AEC instructions for
installation of 760VHF . . . this would work with
any other radio too. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760imB.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Trutrak a/p wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>Comments/Questions: Hi Bob:
>
>I bought your manual a couple of months ago. Great stuff. Going with a
>dual alternator / single battery / essential buss system as you show --
>for my RV7A.
>
>Question: I am installing the Trutrak DigiFlight 200 servo (stepper
>motor) in my left wing at the bell crank, and I need to run power to a
>wing tip strobe and position light. The position light power wire doesn't
>bother me, but the strobe does. I don't want problems with the auto pilot
>motor acting crazy due to getting electrical or magnetic pulses. There
>are two sets of 1/4" plastic bushed holes already drilled in the wing ribs
>-- one for the 1/4" OD plastic pitot line and the other for the wire
>bundle. I am nervous about the strobe line being in the same bundle as
>the quantity 7 of 22 AWG wires going to the stepper motor -- even with
>using a grounded / shielded 16 AWG wire for the strobe.
>
>Am I being too paranoid? Tru trak wasn't any help when I called
>them. Should I run the 16 AWG shielded wire as a 12VDC power wire -- to a
>strobe control box mounted next to the wing tip -- verses running a high
>voltage intermittent electrical pulse from a strobe power supply box in
>the fuselage in the same wire bundle? I'm thinking the capacitor aspects
>of the strobe control box should keep the spikes at bay.
I don't belive the Trutrak servos contain any vulnerable
electronics. With a stepper motor, the ADVANTAGES are
that you can build a system with no local electronics
or position feedback potentiometers. I can't think of
any reason your a/p and lighting wires cannot share
the same wire bundle. Wire each system as depicted in
the manufacturer's installation instructions and route
wiring in the most convenient manner.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: GPS-35 / Transponder / Autopilot |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:56 PM 10/2/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach"
><phil@petrasoft.net>
>
>I am going to have the Garmin GPS-35 feeding the heading info to my TruTrak
>autopilot and I was wondering if I could also hook this signal up to my
>Garmin GTX-327 transponder for the automatic ALT/STBY switch? I would
>assume that if I paralleled the two that it may work but I thought that I
>would ask.
depends on what "signals" are being exchanged. is this RS-232 serial
data? If so, it's likely that one talker (GPS) can drive more than
one listener. The experiment is easy to try . . . if it doesn't work,
you may need a buffer-amplifier but I suspect simple parallel connection
will work.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: GPS-35 / Transponder / Autopilot - REDUX |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:56 PM 10/2/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach"
><phil@petrasoft.net>
>
>I am going to have the Garmin GPS-35 feeding the heading info to my TruTrak
>autopilot and I was wondering if I could also hook this signal up to my
>Garmin GTX-327 transponder for the automatic ALT/STBY switch? I would
>assume that if I paralleled the two that it may work but I thought that I
>would ask.
depends on what "signals" are being exchanged. is this RS-232 serial
data? If so, it's likely that one talker (GPS) can drive more than
one listener. The experiment is easy to try . . . if it doesn't work,
you may need a buffer-amplifier but I suspect simple parallel connection
will work.
Just as I hit the "send" button, a new question arose . . . HEADING
info from your GPS is almost sure to be serial. Transponders don't
need heading. If they share anything with the transponder, it's
ALTITUDE coming from the encoder as talker and being fed to
BOTH transponder and GPS as listeners. There ARE techniques for
paralleling multiple listeners onto the output of an altitude encoder.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rrelay diagram for Microair PTT |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Hi Bob - Just reading through the entire Microair installation Instructions and
have a couple
of Q's- on the Mic relay circuit cited below, should not the Mic Hi & Mic Lo connections
to
the radio be made to the NO contacts of the relays?
Could you please clarify the note in section 4.3- looks like a typo...
Thanks! Not tryin' to be picky, I'm just wiring mine up right now and don't want
to see no
smoke!
Mark - do not archive
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> >
> > >Would be great though if you could add this feature to your manual since
> > >as you noticed the Microair manual is pretty lacking! Im sure others that
> > >arent using a separate intercom would benefit.
> >
> > I can do that, but it's two drawings to offer the
> > variants cited above.
> >
>
> I've added a first-come/first-served PTT relay
> circuit to the last page of AEC instructions for
> installation of 760VHF . . . this would work with
> any other radio too. See:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/avionics/760imB.pdf
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Antenna cable routing question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Most convenient routing for my comm antenna cable (RG-400) takes it
within about 3" of my Facet fuel pump- is this a no-no? Anyone have
this condition in use without ill effects? Antenna on fuse bottom.
Would the same apply for the xpndr antenna, also on fuse bottom?
Thanks!
Mark Phillips
Message 11
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| Subject: | 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
To all,
For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor 22 gauge
shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks aircraft has
special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in the
catalogue.
They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if there is
a demand for it.
Regards,
Dave Burnham
RV6A (N64FN)
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">To all,<BR>
<BR>
For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor 22 gauge=20=
shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks aircraft has=
special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in the cat=
alogue. <BR>
They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if there i=
s a demand for it.<BR>
<BR>
Regards,<BR>
Dave Burnham<BR>
RV6A (N64FN)</FONT></HTML>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: GPS-35 / Transponder / Autopilot - REDUX |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
> depends on what "signals" are being exchanged. is this RS-232 serial
> data? If so, it's likely that one talker (GPS) can drive more than
> one listener. The experiment is easy to try . . . if it doesn't work,
> you may need a buffer-amplifier but I suspect simple parallel
connection
> will work.
It is RS-232. I'll probably try the parallel and if it doesn't work I can
live without it being hooked to the transponder.
>
> Just as I hit the "send" button, a new question arose . . . HEADING
> info from your GPS is almost sure to be serial. Transponders don't
> need heading. If they share anything with the transponder, it's
> ALTITUDE coming from the encoder as talker and being fed to
> BOTH transponder and GPS as listeners. There ARE techniques for
> paralleling multiple listeners onto the output of an altitude encoder.
>
> Bob . . .
>
The Garmin GTX-327 Transponder has a feature that will switch it from STBY
to ALT when the groundspeed is greater than some value (I think it is
40kts). I already have an encoder and this is just an extra feature that I
would like to try, if it doesn't work then so be it.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
DJB6A@cs.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
>
> To all,
>
> For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor 22 gauge
> shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks aircraft has
> special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in the
> catalogue.
> They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if there is
> a demand for it.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Burnham
> RV6A (N64FN)
Be sure you check your local electrical cable suppliers. I found a
nearby outlet that had the four conductor 22g shielded cable for
$0.45/ft.
Sam Buchanan
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: diy annunciator panel for gps |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CardinalNSB@aol.com
-------------------------------1065211073
Hello.
I am working on installing a Garmin 300xl gps and don't want to pay for (or
need) the "factory" annunciator panel. I am wiring my cdi directly to the
Garmin, so I don't need the multi pole relay to switch the cdi anyway. However,
to be IFR legal, I do need "lights and switches" which I would like to put
together myself.
The schematic shows that most of the annunciator lights and the "approach"
momentary switch are directly tied into the connector; however, the "auto/hold"
lights and the "auto/hold" selection switch are tied together. The
"auto/hold" function switches between automatically sequencing through the waypoints
or
holding on a specific way point.
The "auto/hold" is laid out such that in the first position the dpdt switch
lights the "auto"annunciator and closes the "auto" circuit, and in the other
position lights the "hold" light and closes the "hold" circuit. That is, this
switch position controls those lights. (It seems odd to me that Garmin would
run the other annunciator lights off of the Garmin unit, that is, the lights
indicate the circuit as the Garmin sees it, whereas the "auto/hold" lights are
lit based on the switch position with no regard to how the Garmin is seeing it)
I would like to make a simple annunciator panel using led's and generic mini
switches (one momentary and one dpdt). Has anybody done anything like this, I
would appreciate any help you can give me on this, what leds to use, etc. I
could use the NAT type of switch but that seems bulky and a little pricey and
I have become enamored with using some led's anyway.
Thank you, Skip Simpson
-------------------------------1065211073
<HTML><HEAD>
tutf-8">
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" nameGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>Hello. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I am working on installing a Garmin 300xl gps and don't want to pay for=
(or need) the "factory" annunciator panel. I am wiring my cdi directl=
y to the Garmin, so I don't need the multi pole relay to switch the cdi anyw=
ay. However, to be IFR legal, I do need "lights and switches" which I=20=
would like to put together myself.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The schematic shows that most of the annunciator lights and the "approa=
ch" momentary switch are directly tied into the connector; however, the "aut=
o/hold" lights and the "auto/hold" selection switch are tied together. =
The "auto/hold" function switches between automatically sequencing through=20=
the waypoints or holding on a specific way point.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The "auto/hold" is laid out such that in the first position the dpdt sw=
itch lights the "auto"annunciator and closes the "auto" circuit, and in the=20=
other position lights the "hold" light and closes the "hold" circuit. =20=
That is, this switch position controls those lights. (It seems odd to me tha=
t Garmin would run the other annunciator lights off of the Garmin unit, that=
is, the lights indicate the circuit as the Garmin sees it, whereas the "aut=
o/hold" lights are lit based on the switch position with no regard to how th=
e Garmin is seeing it)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I would like to make a simple annunciator panel using led's and generic=
mini switches (one momentary and one dpdt). Has anybody done anything=
like this, I would appreciate any help you can give me on this, what leds t=
o use, etc. I could use the NAT type of switch but that seems bulky an=
d a little pricey and I have become enamored with using some led's anyway.&n=
bsp; </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thank you, Skip Simpson</DIV></BODY></HTML>
-------------------------------1065211073--
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Vans gauge lamps |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Attempting to achieve a total-LED panel, I am trying to convert
(pervert?) Vans fuel gauges to accept LEDs without much success.
Problem is the lamps must radiate 360 degrees around the axis of the
lamp holder to do much good. Has anyone experimented with using
diffuse-lense high intensity red LEDs for this? Any thoughts on if it
would even work?
Also broke one of the standard lamps disassembling & see no mention of
replacement lamps in Vans online catalog or anywhere else that might be
compatible- do these things last forever? Where can I get a
replacement?
Thanks
Mark - 6A, wiring "almost" done! do not archive
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: diy annunciator panel for gps |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Having just completed an IFR GPS installation in my certified plane I've
also been contemplating what to do with my RV. Since you don't need to
switch the CDI and I'm sure the Garmin has some sort of message indicator
built-in like my GX-60 does, it would seem the only switch-light you need is
for the "auto/hold" (called "obs/hold" on mine). All that switch does is
suspend/resume the sequencing of segments on the approach. I assume it
merely pulls a pin high/low and the light just indicates the position of the
switch. The only feedback likely available is whether the sequence suspends
or resumes as expected. A simple lighted switch should be enough.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CardinalNSB@aol.com
>
>
> -------------------------------1065211073
>
> Hello.
>
> I am working on installing a Garmin 300xl gps and don't want
> to pay for (or
> need) the "factory" annunciator panel. I am wiring my cdi
> directly to the
> Garmin, so I don't need the multi pole relay to switch the
> cdi anyway. However,
> to be IFR legal, I do need "lights and switches" which I
> would like to put
> together myself.
>
> The schematic shows that most of the annunciator lights and
> the "approach"
> momentary switch are directly tied into the connector;
> however, the "auto/hold"
> lights and the "auto/hold" selection switch are tied together. The
> "auto/hold" function switches between automatically
> sequencing through the waypoints or
> holding on a specific way point.
>
> The "auto/hold" is laid out such that in the first position
> the dpdt switch
> lights the "auto"annunciator and closes the "auto" circuit,
> and in the other
> position lights the "hold" light and closes the "hold"
> circuit. That is, this
> switch position controls those lights. (It seems odd to me
> that Garmin would
> run the other annunciator lights off of the Garmin unit, that
> is, the lights
> indicate the circuit as the Garmin sees it, whereas the
> "auto/hold" lights are
> lit based on the switch position with no regard to how the
> Garmin is seeing it)
>
> I would like to make a simple annunciator panel using led's
> and generic mini
> switches (one momentary and one dpdt). Has anybody done
> anything like this, I
> would appreciate any help you can give me on this, what leds
> to use, etc. I
> could use the NAT type of switch but that seems bulky and a
> little pricey and
> I have become enamored with using some led's anyway.
>
> Thank you, Skip Simpson
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Vans gauge lamps |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "RSwanson" <rswan19@comcast.net>
The Shack used to sell LEDs that would do that. I found out they were
being discontinued so I went to every RS within driving distance and bought
all they had. I'm sure they can be found from another source.
R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Vans gauge lamps
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips
<ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Attempting to achieve a total-LED panel, I am trying to convert
> (pervert?) Vans fuel gauges to accept LEDs without much success.
> Problem is the lamps must radiate 360 degrees around the axis of the
> lamp holder to do much good. Has anyone experimented with using
> diffuse-lense high intensity red LEDs for this? Any thoughts on if it
> would even work?
>
> Also broke one of the standard lamps disassembling & see no mention of
> replacement lamps in Vans online catalog or anywhere else that might be
> compatible- do these things last forever? Where can I get a
> replacement?
>
> Thanks
> Mark - 6A, wiring "almost" done! do not archive
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
So should it be assumed that the harness to the compass MUST be
shielded? My harness was completed a couple months ago, but the compass
(and radios) are not installed yet. Can I test if this is needed using
the handheld? What would the procedure be?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Buchanan [mailto:sbuc@hiwaay.net]
> Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 3:55 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: RV-List: 4 conductor shielded
> wire for Dynon
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan
> <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>
> DJB6A@cs.com wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
> >
> > To all,
> >
> > For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4
> conductor 22
> > gauge shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon
> Magnetometer, Wicks
> > aircraft has special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let
> them know it
> > is not in the catalogue. They expect it in next week. They
> will add it
> > as a permanent item if there is a demand for it.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Dave Burnham
> > RV6A (N64FN)
>
>
> Be sure you check your local electrical cable suppliers. I
> found a nearby outlet that had the four conductor 22g
> shielded cable for $0.45/ft.
>
> Sam Buchanan
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Vans gauge lamps |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Pieper_Frank" <Pieper_Frank@asdk12.org>
UnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribe
> ----------
> From: RSwanson
> Reply To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, October 3, 2003 3:08 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Vans gauge lamps
>
> UnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribe-->
AeroElectric-List message posted
by: "RSwanson" <rswan19@comcast.net>
>
> The Shack used to sell LEDs that would do that. I found out they were
> being discontinued so I went to every RS within driving distance and bought
> all they had. I'm sure they can be found from another source.
> R
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
> To: "AeroElectric List" <AeroElectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Vans gauge lamps
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips
> <ripsteel@edge.net>
> >
> > Attempting to achieve a total-LED panel, I am trying to convert
> > (pervert?) Vans fuel gauges to accept LEDs without much success.
> > Problem is the lamps must radiate 360 degrees around the axis of the
> > lamp holder to do much good. Has anyone experimented with using
> > diffuse-lense high intensity red LEDs for this? Any thoughts on if it
> > would even work?
> >
> > Also broke one of the standard lamps disassembling & see no mention of
> > replacement lamps in Vans online catalog or anywhere else that might be
> > compatible- do these things last forever? Where can I get a
> > replacement?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Mark - 6A, wiring "almost" done! do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Fuse Blocks, fuses, fusible links and CBs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
--0-361577249-1065230699=:58092
Bob,
I am using a derivative of Figure Z-11 architecture for an RV6. I want to feed
the electronic ignition from a hot battery bus. The LSE installation instructions
say to use a "pullable" 5 amp breaker. The Aeroelectric connection mentions
use of a fusible link in this application. I would much prefer a fusible
link with an on/off switch over a CB. Do these electronic ignition systems
nuisance trip in general? I thought they were supposed to be incredibly reliable
(That's why I bought it!!).
What would you suggest for a feed to the flap motor. I thought I read something
about this is one particular animal that can nuisance trip. If you were
to recommend a CB application how would you power that off say the main bus/fuse
block? I would prefer to keep the ALT FLD CB the only breaker on the panel,
if practical.
I haven't seen listed the expected current draw for the flap motor. Can anybody
help me out here?
Thanks.
Greg Grigson
Honolulu
---------------------------------
--0-361577249-1065230699=:58092
<DIV>Bob,</DIV>
<DIV> I am using a derivative of Figure Z-11 architecture for an RV6.
I want to feed the electronic ignition from a hot battery bus. The
LSE installation instructions say to use a "pullable" 5 amp breaker.
The Aeroelectric connection mentions use of a fusible link in this application.
I would much prefer a fusible link with an on/off switch
over a CB. Do these electronic ignition systems nuisance trip
in general? I thought they were supposed to be incredibly reliable (That's
why I bought it!!).</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> What would you suggest for a feed to the flap motor.
I thought I read something about this is one particular animal that can
nuisance trip. If you were to recommend a CB application how would you
power that off say the main bus/fuse block? I would prefer to keep
the ALT FLD CB the only breaker on the panel, if practical.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> I haven't seen listed the expected current draw for the flap
motor. Can anybody help me out here?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks.</DIV>
<DIV>Greg Grigson</DIV>
<DIV>Honolulu</DIV><p><hr SIZE=1>
--0-361577249-1065230699=:58092--
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: 4 conductor shielded wire for |
Dynon
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I just re-read the recently released, updated version of the
installation manual. It makes no reference to using shielded wire in
any part of the installation. I used 4 wire, 22ga shielded because I
was lucky enough to have some laying around. I would also like to know
if shielded wire is neccesary or even useful in this installation.
Jeff Point
RV-6 panel, wiring
Milwaukee, WI
Larry Bowen wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>
>So should it be assumed that the harness to the compass MUST be
>shielded? My harness was completed a couple months ago, but the compass
>(and radios) are not installed yet. Can I test if this is needed using
>the handheld? What would the procedure be?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Sam Buchanan [mailto:sbuc@hiwaay.net]
>>Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 3:55 PM
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: RV-List: 4 conductor shielded
>>wire for Dynon
>>
>>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan
>><sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>>
>>
>>DJB6A@cs.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
>>>
>>>To all,
>>>
>>>For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4
>>>
>>>
>>conductor 22
>>
>>
>>>gauge shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon
>>>
>>>
>>Magnetometer, Wicks
>>
>>
>>>aircraft has special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let
>>>
>>>
>>them know it
>>
>>
>>>is not in the catalogue. They expect it in next week. They
>>>
>>>
>>will add it
>>
>>
>>>as a permanent item if there is a demand for it.
>>>
>>>Regards,
>>>Dave Burnham
>>>RV6A (N64FN)
>>>
>>>
>>Be sure you check your local electrical cable suppliers. I
>>found a nearby outlet that had the four conductor 22g
>>shielded cable for $0.45/ft.
>>
>>Sam Buchanan
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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