Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:03 AM - Anyone interested? (Gerry Holland)
2. 04:47 AM - 1N4005 Selection (Jon Finley)
3. 06:07 AM - Re: Switched gnd? (Larry Bowen)
4. 06:46 AM - Re: Battery Contactor vibration problem (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:59 AM - Re: Re: Relay diagram for Microair PTT (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:14 AM - Re: Battery Contactor vibration problem (Richard May)
7. 07:40 AM - Re: Switched gnd? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 07:50 AM - Re: Battery Contactor vibration problem (Vince Ackerman)
9. 08:06 AM - Re: Fuse Blocks, fuses, fusible links and (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 08:21 AM - Re: Battery Contactor vibration problem (Vince Ackerman)
11. 08:21 AM - Re: bad link to picture (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 11:28 AM - Re: Battery Contactor vibration problem (Vince Ackerman)
13. 02:01 PM - Strain relieving 15 pin D-sub connectors (Treff, Arthur)
14. 02:01 PM - Good reference on Transient Suppression (MikeM)
15. 02:49 PM - Re: need info on Mitchell CD-1000 cdi (CardinalNSB@aol.com)
16. 05:46 PM - Re: Alternator and electronic ignition (Leonard Garceau)
17. 06:06 PM - Re: Strain relieving 15 pin D-sub connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 06:23 PM - Re: Good reference on Transient Suppression (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 08:54 PM - Starter/mag switch (David.vonLinsowe)
20. 09:02 PM - Re: Re: Alternator and electronic ignition (Jim Sower)
21. 09:18 PM - Crowbar overvoltage protector ... (Jim Sower)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Anyone interested? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
I have a unused Rocky Mountain Encoder with Remote Compass for Sale.
As I have now fitted an EFIS to my panel the Encoder is surplus and an
overkill. Triple redundancy for VFR only flight is probably 'over the top'!
The Unit was factory Built and calibrated and includes Remote Compass Unit
& OAT and associated Wiring. All Manuals and Documentation included.
The Factory price is $1479.00 US. I'm asking $1000.00 or 650 UK Pounds
I'm based in UK but could have it delivered just about anywhere.
If anyone is interested give me a call on +44 1761 433073 or +44 7808 402404
Or reply to: gnholland@onetel.com
Gerry Holland
Gerry Holland
Europa 384
G-FIZY
+44 7808 402404
gnholland@onetel.com
Do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | 1N4005 Selection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Hi Joa,
I'll take a shot at this one. I'm an electronics beginner and this list
has helped a bunch - somone please correct me if I'm wrong.
First - take a look at the packaging. DO-41 is the in-line type (see
this site for a photo
(http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/Jameco/searchResult.
d2w/report?sort=BRR&search=1N4005)). DO-214 is a surface mount item,
you don't want this unless installing on a PCB or ???
Second - take a look at "Min Qty". Not sure about you but I can pretty
easily eliminate the items that have a minimum quantity of more than
100. That gets you down to about four items.
That's about all the further I can help. I notice that "Glass
Passivated" is much more expensive than "Silicon" (49 cents versus 4
cents).
I don't fully understand your last question. I assume you are talking
about the OV crowbar. The instructions are at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/9003_ins.pdf but you probably
already have them.
Jon Finley
N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 455 Hrs. TT - 3.5 Hrs Engine
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://www.FinleyWeb.net/default.asp?id=96
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sigma Eta Aero
> --> <sigmatero@yahoo.com>
>
> --0-1904218001-1065499228=:60162
>
> Good stuff, thanks Bob. Now if you'll hold my hand just a
> minute longer and suggest the "perfect" DigiKey diodes to go
> with both the OV disconnect relay and these relays I would be
> grateful. The pic on your site shows a 1N4005 but there are
> about a dozen of these that show up in the DigiKey website.
>
> Also, where are the red and white connectors that come with
> the B&C OV module kit best used?
>
> Joa
>
Message 3
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Hopefully it's not that complicated. This is what I want to do.
Main fuse block -- 5 amp fuse -- fuel pump -- terminal strip -- infinity
grip -- ground
=AND=
Main fuse block -- 2 amp fuse -- dimmer board -- 3 enun. LEDs --
terminal strip -- infinity grip -- ground
When the switch is closed on the grip, it provides ground to both the
pump and it's one enun light. I couldn't get this fuctionality
switching the positive unless I had one dimmer board per enun light,
which is not a reasonable option.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robinson, Chad [mailto:crobinson@rfgonline.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 2:00 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switched gnd?
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robinson, Chad"
> --> <crobinson@rfgonline.com>
>
> > > Larry Bowen wrote:
> > >
> > > The fuse/breaker would provide protection. Would it not?
> >
> > Lyle Peterson wrote:
> >
> > Depends on which side is fused or breakered (is that a
> word?) If the
> > postive side is fused it would protect it. If the problem
> is one of
> > wiring the switch only to the negative side for some reason, I am
> > guessing that the same reasons apply to the fuse or breaker.
> > That means the fuse would be in the negative side and little or no
> > protection.
>
> On the other hand, one would probably not be wiring a
> negative-switched device into one's standard fuse panel, that
> being a 12V source itself. So Larry, unless you're looking to
> create a separate fuse panel of all NEGATIVE switched
> devices, I assumed you meant that you'd have an inline fuse
> or breaker upstream of this negative-switched device (that
> is, on the supply side). Is this the case? Because Lyle is
> right - wherever you put the switch, the FUSE should be on
> the supply side no matter what. And if your breaker IS your
> switch, then this is not a great idea.
>
> However, I'd like to restate my point that switch/breaker
> location is a bigger issue in systems where the voltage is
> not so fun to touch - a human can die from mains voltage
> without ever tripping a standard 20A breaker. Therefore, you
> always want a way to cut off the supply side as close to the
> source as possible, and so the breaker is ALWAYS on the hot side.
>
> My $0.00002c. =)
>
> Regards,
> Chad
>
> PS - None of my dictionaries (all relatively new, FWIW)
> contain "breakered" as an acceptable form of "breaker".
> However, LOTS of electrical supply and products companies
> like to use it, so I say what the heck, if the people you're
> talking to understand what you mean...
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Contactor vibration problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:00 PM 10/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
>
>I installed a battery master switch with contactor (one or the 3
>terminal ones sold by Aircraft Spruce) on my Rotorway 162f project. For
>reasons of space I installed it upside down. While testing out the
>electrical system I noticed that tapping with a small rubber mallet on
>the bracket that it's mounted to will cause it to interrupt the power
>momentarily. It doesn't matter if I tap from top or bottom, it seems
>to disconnect for a split second. I know it's disconnecting because my
>rotor tach goes through it's initialization test on first power up, and
>it's doing that every time. Also, other indicator lights flicker, so
>it's not just the tach, nor loose battery leads, etc.
>
>You can understand my hesitation about using this since it's a helo
>(they aren't the smoothest) with two FADEC's that can't be electrically
>interrupted. Are there any stronger or more reliable contactors,
>perhaps even solid state? Any suggestions for how to fix this?
What's your battery voltage? It may be so low as to
severely reduce the holding force of the coil in the
energized mode . . . but it has to sag really low. Measure
the voltage across the coil while energized (battery+
terminal to small terminal).
If the voltage is over 10v, I'd like to get my hands on that
contactor. If you'll send me you address, I'll have B&C ship
you one of their battery contactors today and you can send
me your questionable device. There's something seriously
wrong with it if you can get interruptions with vibration.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Relay diagram for Microair PTT |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:00 PM 10/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sigma Eta Aero <sigmatero@yahoo.com>
>
>--0-1904218001-1065499228=:60162
>
>Good stuff, thanks Bob. Now if you'll hold my hand just a minute longer
>and suggest the "perfect" DigiKey diodes to go with both the OV disconnect
>relay and these relays I would be grateful. The pic on your site shows a
>1N4005 but there are about a dozen of these that show up in the DigiKey
>website.
Some of those will be surface mount parts. You want
leaded parts. ANY leaded part will do . . .
Go to Radio Shack. Any diode of reasonable size (meaning
physical dimensions) will work. This is NOT in the least
critical electrically. If you look at the S701 series
contactors from B*C
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/s701-2.jpg
these are a rather "fat" looking diode. These are 3A
devices (1N540x series devices) and Radio Shack has several
electrical sizes in a blister pak . . . 2 for about $1.
I chose these for this application because they're
mechanically robust. Where you need a smaller one
like for a S704 relay
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/s701-2.jpg
then the smaller, glass or plastic, leaded devices
are called for. ANY 1N400x diode you can find on the
rack at the Shack is fine. It think they stock several
electrical sizes of these as well.
>Also, where are the red and white connectors that come with the B&C OV
>module kit best used?
Not sure. Did they come packaged with the OV module
or are they part of the SD-8 overall installation kit.
I think they ship some connectors that are used for
alternator wiring of the SD-8. If their use is not
implicit in the instructions for the kit, a phone
call to 316-283-8000 or e-mail (mailto:todd@bandc.biz)
will clear this up.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Contactor vibration problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard May <ram45@comporium.net>
At 09:00 PM 10/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
>
>I installed a battery master switch with contactor (one or the 3
>terminal ones sold by Aircraft Spruce) on my Rotorway 162f project. For
>reasons of space I installed it upside down. While testing out the
>electrical system I noticed that tapping with a small rubber mallet on
>the bracket that it's mounted to will cause it to interrupt the power
>momentarily. It doesn't matter if I tap from top or bottom, it seems
>to disconnect for a split second. I know it's disconnecting because my
>rotor tach goes through it's initialization test on first power up, and
>it's doing that every time. Also, other indicator lights flicker, so
>it's not just the tach, nor loose battery leads, etc.
>
>You can understand my hesitation about using this since it's a helo
>(they aren't the smoothest) with two FADEC's that can't be electrically
>interrupted. Are there any stronger or more reliable contactors,
>perhaps even solid state? Any suggestions for how to fix this?
>
>Thanks
>Vince Ackerman
>N777FB
We had similar type of problem in the Glasairs. It was discovered that
during high g loads, the contactors would separate. The fix was mounting
them horizontally.
Message 7
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
This one has been all over the map. Let's consider a
few important points:
(1) The techniques and rational for wiring houses in a
particular way has very weak association with the wiring
for vehicles including airplanes.
(2) Circuit protection always goes as close to the source
as practical . . . busses and batteries are the source.
It matters not what is being powered or how it is controlled,
location of circuit protection is the same.
(3) To turn something ON or OFF one only need to get in
series with the flow of current around the path from bus
to ground. In many complex control systems for airplanes,
there might be two or more switches, relays, solid state
controls or contactors, any ONE of which is capable of
turning the system OFF and all must be closed for the system
to be ON. It absolutely matters not where the switch is
located around the loop to achieve the desired function.
(3) There are some secondary considerations from a failure
modes perspective . . . a switch to ground control line
COULD fault to ground and leave a system permanently ON.
But given that 99% of system failures are due to
wear-out or component failure, 0.9% of failures are
due to wiring coming unhooked, and 0.1% of
failures are due to ground faults of wire runs. Of this
tiny fraction of ground faults, the majority will probably
take out the supply fuse as opposed to causing any system
to stick in the ON condition.
Unless you enjoy getting wrapped around the axles of
Part 25 or air transport category fault trees and
can get excited about chasing a bureaucratic nirvana
of less than one failure per million flight hours,
such considerations are not worth your time and effort.
The fault to ground condition is handled like any other
consideration in your failure tolerant system analysis:
Is it pre-flight detectable? How do I now it's failed
in flight? What are the consequences of not being able
to regain control if it does fail in flight? If the system
is stuck on, what's necessary for comfortable termination
of flight? How do I deal with it in flight in terms of
(1) ignore it, (2) shut down the main bus and go to
e-bus ops, (3) use the backup system, etc. etc.
Bottom line is you can wire your systems up pretty much
any way that improves on convenience or reduces cost
or parts count and satisfies your FMEA.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Contactor vibration problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
At the time I was testing it the volt meter was reading 12.4 volts,
which I thought should have been enough. I didn't measure the voltage
across the coil but I will. I will take you up on your offer and send
you the contactor. I would like the B&C contactor sent to the below
address. I will happily pay for it.
No one makes a solid state contactor? I would think there would be
quite a market for something like that.
Thanks.
Vince Ackerman
17977 NW Sauvie Island Rd
Portland, OR 97231
503-621-0511
On Tuesday, October 7, 2003, at 06:45 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 09:00 PM 10/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
>>
>> I installed a battery master switch with contactor (one or the 3
>> terminal ones sold by Aircraft Spruce) on my Rotorway 162f project.
>> For
>> reasons of space I installed it upside down. While testing out the
>> electrical system I noticed that tapping with a small rubber mallet on
>> the bracket that it's mounted to will cause it to interrupt the power
>> momentarily. It doesn't matter if I tap from top or bottom, it seems
>> to disconnect for a split second. I know it's disconnecting because my
>> rotor tach goes through it's initialization test on first power up,
>> and
>> it's doing that every time. Also, other indicator lights flicker, so
>> it's not just the tach, nor loose battery leads, etc.
>>
>> You can understand my hesitation about using this since it's a helo
>> (they aren't the smoothest) with two FADEC's that can't be
>> electrically
>> interrupted. Are there any stronger or more reliable contactors,
>> perhaps even solid state? Any suggestions for how to fix this?
>
>
> What's your battery voltage? It may be so low as to
> severely reduce the holding force of the coil in the
> energized mode . . . but it has to sag really low. Measure
> the voltage across the coil while energized (battery+
> terminal to small terminal).
>
> If the voltage is over 10v, I'd like to get my hands on that
> contactor. If you'll send me you address, I'll have B&C ship
> you one of their battery contactors today and you can send
> me your questionable device. There's something seriously
> wrong with it if you can get interruptions with vibration.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks, fuses, fusible links and |
CBs
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
CBs
At 06:24 PM 10/3/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
>
>--0-361577249-1065230699=:58092
>
>Bob,
> I am using a derivative of Figure Z-11 architecture for an RV6. I want
> to feed the electronic ignition from a hot battery bus. The LSE
> installation instructions say to use a "pullable" 5 amp breaker. The
> Aeroelectric connection mentions use of a fusible link in this
> application. I would much prefer a fusible link with an on/off switch
> over a CB. Do these electronic ignition systems nuisance trip in
> general? I thought they were supposed to be incredibly reliable (That's
> why I bought it!!).
If you have a battery bus with more than one feed, then
a fuseblock can be used to distribute power to the e-bus,
Hobbs, clock, -AND- electronic ignition. If you like, you
can feed the ignition directly from the battery contactor
using fusible link. Electronic ignitions are reliable,
they don't have an propensity for nuisance tripping, and
power feedline protection technique is entirely optional.
> What would you suggest for a feed to the flap motor. I thought I read
> something about this is one particular animal that can nuisance trip. If
> you were to recommend a CB application how would you power that off say
> the main bus/fuse block? I would prefer to keep the ALT FLD CB the only
> breaker on the panel, if practical.
Do an FEMA. How what are the consequences of this
system shutting down at ANY phase of flight? If your
airplane will climb with flaps fully extended, then
there are no worries about getting boxed in by an
inop flap system.
Systems will nuisance trip the circuit protection for one
reason only and it's NOT because they are a flap system,
ignition system or any other system. When you read
about "nuisance trips" you KNOW that the system
was poorly designed. It simply means that the feedwires
and fuse/breaker were not properly sized for the task.
Wire it up with 16AWG and start out with a 5A fuse.
If you trip it, go to 7A . . . it's almost a sure
bet that 10A will stay put . . . or just start out
with 10A. Lots of designers do that . . .make it fat
and don't worry about it. I'd rather have a more
considered reason for final fuse selection.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Contactor vibration problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
At the time I was testing it the volt meter was reading 12.4 volts,
which I thought should have been enough. I didn't measure the voltage
across the coil but I will. I will take you up on your offer and send
you the contactor. I would like the B&C contactor sent to the below
address. I will happily pay for it.
No one makes a solid state contactor? I would think there would be
quite a market for something like that.
Thanks.
Vince Ackerman
17977 NW Sauvie Island Rd
Portland, OR 97231
503-621-0511
On Tuesday, October 7, 2003, at 06:45 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 09:00 PM 10/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
>>
>> I installed a battery master switch with contactor (one or the 3
>> terminal ones sold by Aircraft Spruce) on my Rotorway 162f project.
>> For
>> reasons of space I installed it upside down. While testing out the
>> electrical system I noticed that tapping with a small rubber mallet on
>> the bracket that it's mounted to will cause it to interrupt the power
>> momentarily. It doesn't matter if I tap from top or bottom, it seems
>> to disconnect for a split second. I know it's disconnecting because my
>> rotor tach goes through it's initialization test on first power up,
>> and
>> it's doing that every time. Also, other indicator lights flicker, so
>> it's not just the tach, nor loose battery leads, etc.
>>
>> You can understand my hesitation about using this since it's a helo
>> (they aren't the smoothest) with two FADEC's that can't be
>> electrically
>> interrupted. Are there any stronger or more reliable contactors,
>> perhaps even solid state? Any suggestions for how to fix this?
>
>
> What's your battery voltage? It may be so low as to
> severely reduce the holding force of the coil in the
> energized mode . . . but it has to sag really low. Measure
> the voltage across the coil while energized (battery+
> terminal to small terminal).
>
> If the voltage is over 10v, I'd like to get my hands on that
> contactor. If you'll send me you address, I'll have B&C ship
> you one of their battery contactors today and you can send
> me your questionable device. There's something seriously
> wrong with it if you can get interruptions with vibration.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: bad link to picture |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> Some of those will be surface mount parts. You want
> leaded parts. ANY leaded part will do . . .
>
> Go to Radio Shack. Any diode of reasonable size (meaning
> physical dimensions) will work. This is NOT in the least
> critical electrically. If you look at the S701 series
> contactors from B*C
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/s701-2.jpg
>
> these are a rather "fat" looking diode. These are 3A
> devices (1N540x series devices) and Radio Shack has several
> electrical sizes in a blister pak . . . 2 for about $1.
>
> I chose these for this application because they're
> mechanically robust. Where you need a smaller one
> like for a S704 relay
Here's the right one . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/s704inst.jpg
> then the smaller, glass or plastic, leaded devices
> are called for. ANY 1N400x diode you can find on the
> rack at the Shack is fine. It think they stock several
> electrical sizes of these as well.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Contactor vibration problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
BTW, to where do you want me to send it??
On Tuesday, October 7, 2003, at 08:21 AM, Vince Ackerman wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
>
> At the time I was testing it the volt meter was reading 12.4 volts,
> which I thought should have been enough. I didn't measure the voltage
> across the coil but I will. I will take you up on your offer and send
> you the contactor. I would like the B&C contactor sent to the below
> address. I will happily pay for it.
>
> No one makes a solid state contactor? I would think there would be
> quite a market for something like that.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Vince Ackerman
> 17977 NW Sauvie Island Rd
> Portland, OR 97231
>
> 503-621-0511
>
>
> On Tuesday, October 7, 2003, at 06:45 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> wrote:
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>>
>> At 09:00 PM 10/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman
>>> <vack@mac.com>
>>>
>>> I installed a battery master switch with contactor (one or the 3
>>> terminal ones sold by Aircraft Spruce) on my Rotorway 162f project.
>>> For
>>> reasons of space I installed it upside down. While testing out the
>>> electrical system I noticed that tapping with a small rubber mallet
>>> on
>>> the bracket that it's mounted to will cause it to interrupt the power
>>> momentarily. It doesn't matter if I tap from top or bottom, it seems
>>> to disconnect for a split second. I know it's disconnecting because
>>> my
>>> rotor tach goes through it's initialization test on first power up,
>>> and
>>> it's doing that every time. Also, other indicator lights flicker, so
>>> it's not just the tach, nor loose battery leads, etc.
>>>
>>> You can understand my hesitation about using this since it's a helo
>>> (they aren't the smoothest) with two FADEC's that can't be
>>> electrically
>>> interrupted. Are there any stronger or more reliable contactors,
>>> perhaps even solid state? Any suggestions for how to fix this?
>>
>>
>> What's your battery voltage? It may be so low as to
>> severely reduce the holding force of the coil in the
>> energized mode . . . but it has to sag really low. Measure
>> the voltage across the coil while energized (battery+
>> terminal to small terminal).
>>
>> If the voltage is over 10v, I'd like to get my hands on that
>> contactor. If you'll send me you address, I'll have B&C ship
>> you one of their battery contactors today and you can send
>> me your questionable device. There's something seriously
>> wrong with it if you can get interruptions with vibration.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>>
>> _-
>> ======================================================================
>>
>>
>> _-
>> ======================================================================
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>> _-
>> ======================================================================
>>
>>
>> _-
>> ======================================================================
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Strain relieving 15 pin D-sub connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Treff, Arthur" <Arthur.Treff@Smartm.com>
What ideas have you guys come up with to strain relieve the back sides of D-sub
connectors? I saw Bob's article that uses Shoe Goo (great stuff) for a soldered
D-sub. This is not soldered and since it's the stick grip connector, I do
not want to pot the back side with anything, in case I want to swap pins in the
future. My idea so far is to take 1.5" diameter shrink tubing, and pull it
over the back side of the connector metal. Shrink that side only. Then shrink
the other side but not the middle, that way, I"ll get a gentle tapering sleeve.
I doubt that the 1.5" tubing will shrink to the 3/8 " to tighten up on the
wire bundle, so I"ll tie that end with lacing cord. Anyone else have any ideas?
Arthur Treff
RV-8 Wiring
Message 14
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| Subject: | Good reference on Transient Suppression |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: MikeM <mladejov@ced.utah.edu>
http://littelfuse.com/PDFs/AppNotes/an9312.pdf
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: need info on Mitchell CD-1000 cdi |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CardinalNSB@aol.com
-------------------------------1065563129
Hello, can anyone give me the wiring diagram or any other information on a
"Mitchell Aircraft Instruments" CD-1000 curse deviation indicator, or a way to
contact the company, or any other help in finding out information about this
instrument. My internet search was not successful. thank you, skip simpson
-------------------------------1065563129
<HTML><HEAD>
tutf-8">
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" nameGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">Hello, can anyone give me the wiring diagram or any other information on=20=
a "Mitchell Aircraft Instruments" CD-1000 curse deviation indicator, or a wa=
y to contact the company, or any other help in finding out information about=
this instrument. My internet search was not successful. th=
ank you, skip simpson</BODY></HTML>
-------------------------------1065563129--
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator and electronic ignition |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Leonard Garceau" <lhgcpg@westriv.com>
I'm doing runups on my conversion with a 55 amp nippondenso alternator and
have a intermitten problem. Sometimes as the volt meter reads about 13.8
volts the needle moves back and forth between lets say 13.8 and 13.9 and
this causes my engine to miss fire. In other words the electronic ignition
doesn't like it. This only happens (or seems so) when the battery is fully
charged. If I let the battery run down a bit, it seems to charge right up to
14.1 volts and stablize. Any Ideas?
I also have a miss fire a 4000 rpm. Does anyone know about the range of
spark plugs to run? Colder? By how much?
My engine is a nissan VQ maxima V-6. It is running great so far. I'm up to
4500 rpm static.
Leonard
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vince Ackerman" <vack@mac.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Battery Contactor vibration problem
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
>
> BTW, to where do you want me to send it??
>
> On Tuesday, October 7, 2003, at 08:21 AM, Vince Ackerman wrote:
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
> >
> > At the time I was testing it the volt meter was reading 12.4 volts,
> > which I thought should have been enough. I didn't measure the voltage
> > across the coil but I will. I will take you up on your offer and send
> > you the contactor. I would like the B&C contactor sent to the below
> > address. I will happily pay for it.
> >
> > No one makes a solid state contactor? I would think there would be
> > quite a market for something like that.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Vince Ackerman
> > 17977 NW Sauvie Island Rd
> > Portland, OR 97231
> >
> > 503-621-0511
> >
> >
> > On Tuesday, October 7, 2003, at 06:45 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> > wrote:
> >
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> >> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >>
> >> At 09:00 PM 10/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman
> >>> <vack@mac.com>
> >>>
> >>> I installed a battery master switch with contactor (one or the 3
> >>> terminal ones sold by Aircraft Spruce) on my Rotorway 162f project.
> >>> For
> >>> reasons of space I installed it upside down. While testing out the
> >>> electrical system I noticed that tapping with a small rubber mallet
> >>> on
> >>> the bracket that it's mounted to will cause it to interrupt the power
> >>> momentarily. It doesn't matter if I tap from top or bottom, it seems
> >>> to disconnect for a split second. I know it's disconnecting because
> >>> my
> >>> rotor tach goes through it's initialization test on first power up,
> >>> and
> >>> it's doing that every time. Also, other indicator lights flicker, so
> >>> it's not just the tach, nor loose battery leads, etc.
> >>>
> >>> You can understand my hesitation about using this since it's a helo
> >>> (they aren't the smoothest) with two FADEC's that can't be
> >>> electrically
> >>> interrupted. Are there any stronger or more reliable contactors,
> >>> perhaps even solid state? Any suggestions for how to fix this?
> >>
> >>
> >> What's your battery voltage? It may be so low as to
> >> severely reduce the holding force of the coil in the
> >> energized mode . . . but it has to sag really low. Measure
> >> the voltage across the coil while energized (battery+
> >> terminal to small terminal).
> >>
> >> If the voltage is over 10v, I'd like to get my hands on that
> >> contactor. If you'll send me you address, I'll have B&C ship
> >> you one of their battery contactors today and you can send
> >> me your questionable device. There's something seriously
> >> wrong with it if you can get interruptions with vibration.
> >>
> >> Bob . . .
> >>
> >>
> >> _-
> >> ======================================================================
> >>
> >>
> >> _-
> >> ======================================================================
> >>
> >>
> >> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
> >> _-
> >> ======================================================================
> >>
> >>
> >> _-
> >> ======================================================================
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> >
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> >
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Strain relieving 15 pin D-sub connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:57 PM 10/7/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Treff, Arthur"
><Arthur.Treff@Smartm.com>
>
>
>What ideas have you guys come up with to strain relieve the back sides of
>D-sub connectors? I saw Bob's article that uses Shoe Goo (great stuff)
>for a soldered D-sub. This is not soldered and since it's the stick grip
>connector, I do not want to pot the back side with anything, in case I
>want to swap pins in the future. My idea so far is to take 1.5" diameter
>shrink tubing, and pull it over the back side of the connector metal.
>Shrink that side only. Then shrink the other side but not the middle,
>that way, I"ll get a gentle tapering sleeve. I doubt that the 1.5" tubing
>will shrink to the 3/8 " to tighten up on the wire bundle, so I"ll tie
>that end with lacing cord. Anyone else have any ideas?
How about an ordinary 15-pin backshell?
See listing in upper right corner of page at:
http://dkc3.digikey.com/pdf/T033/0144-0145.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Good reference on Transient Suppression |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:56 PM 10/7/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: MikeM <mladejov@ced.utah.edu>
>
>
>http://littelfuse.com/PDFs/AppNotes/an9312.pdf
This document is typical of a whole family of
texts published by folk who make (and therefore
want to sell) various forms of protective devices.
As sources of engineering guidance for system
analysis, they're fine but the neophyte builder
needs to understand that (1) while the stresses
cited "can", "may" and under some conditions "will"
exist, they don't ALL exist in a vehicular DC
power system and (2) there are design considerations
in addition to or as alternatives to a generous
sprinkling of "spike" suppressors about the
system (like DO-160 certification).
I'm still waiting for any aviation systems designer
to describe a single repeatable experiment that
I can use to justify anything more than catch diodes
on contactor coils and crowbar ov modules on
alternators (which have been standard for years).
BTW, there is a GENEROUS sprinkling of spike
suppressors on the Premier I and will undoubtedly
be many more on Hawker Horizon . . . composite
aircraft supposedly buttressed for LIGHTNING
strike. So if someone points out the fact that
a certified airframe is so equipped, know that
as long as it's your enthusiastic intent to
stay out of thunderstorms, then your electrical
system is going to be fine without them.
This is not to discourage anyone from taking
advantage of the knowledge these documents
offer . . . but also please be aware that most of
the beasts and gremlins described therein
are no big deal for airplane folks.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 19
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| Subject: | Starter/mag switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
Hi Bob and list,
I'm using two switches for my ignition, one for the left mag and starter
(double pole) and an other switch for the right electronic ignition.
I'm upgrading to an all electric panel with a Grand Raids Tech. EIS and
doing away with the tach cable.
What do you think about the idea of using a triple pole switch for the
left mag and starter and add a circuit to switch to the EI tach info
when the mag is off? The EI tach info will have twice the rpm, but I
don't see that as an issue. Is there a better way?
Thanks,
Dave
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator and electronic ignition |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net>
<... charge right up to 14.1 volts and stabilize ...>
Charging voltage with a fully charged battery is 14.7 volts. 14.1 would indicate
to me that the alternator is loaded pretty much. Or perhaps enough line losses
to
make 14.7 at the alternator look like 14.1 to the voltmeter. 13.8 indicates the
alternator is loaded so hell wouldn't have it. Have you checked the volts and
amps
at the B-post of your alternator?
Seems like something's missing here .... Jim S.
Leonard Garceau wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Leonard Garceau" <lhgcpg@westriv.com>
>
> I'm doing runups on my conversion with a 55 amp nippondenso alternator and
> have a intermitten problem. Sometimes as the volt meter reads about 13.8
> volts the needle moves back and forth between lets say 13.8 and 13.9 and
> this causes my engine to miss fire. In other words the electronic ignition
> doesn't like it. This only happens (or seems so) when the battery is fully
> charged. If I let the battery run down a bit, it seems to charge right up to
> 14.1 volts and stablize. Any Ideas?
>
> I also have a miss fire a 4000 rpm. Does anyone know about the range of
> spark plugs to run? Colder? By how much?
>
> My engine is a nissan VQ maxima V-6. It is running great so far. I'm up to
> 4500 rpm static.
>
> Leonard
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Vince Ackerman" <vack@mac.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Battery Contactor vibration problem
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
> >
> > BTW, to where do you want me to send it??
> >
> > On Tuesday, October 7, 2003, at 08:21 AM, Vince Ackerman wrote:
> >
> > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
> > >
> > > At the time I was testing it the volt meter was reading 12.4 volts,
> > > which I thought should have been enough. I didn't measure the voltage
> > > across the coil but I will. I will take you up on your offer and send
> > > you the contactor. I would like the B&C contactor sent to the below
> > > address. I will happily pay for it.
> > >
> > > No one makes a solid state contactor? I would think there would be
> > > quite a market for something like that.
> > >
> > > Thanks.
> > >
> > > Vince Ackerman
> > > 17977 NW Sauvie Island Rd
> > > Portland, OR 97231
> > >
> > > 503-621-0511
> > >
> > >
> > > On Tuesday, October 7, 2003, at 06:45 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> > >> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> > >>
> > >> At 09:00 PM 10/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> > >>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman
> > >>> <vack@mac.com>
> > >>>
> > >>> I installed a battery master switch with contactor (one or the 3
> > >>> terminal ones sold by Aircraft Spruce) on my Rotorway 162f project.
> > >>> For
> > >>> reasons of space I installed it upside down. While testing out the
> > >>> electrical system I noticed that tapping with a small rubber mallet
> > >>> on
> > >>> the bracket that it's mounted to will cause it to interrupt the power
> > >>> momentarily. It doesn't matter if I tap from top or bottom, it seems
> > >>> to disconnect for a split second. I know it's disconnecting because
> > >>> my
> > >>> rotor tach goes through it's initialization test on first power up,
> > >>> and
> > >>> it's doing that every time. Also, other indicator lights flicker, so
> > >>> it's not just the tach, nor loose battery leads, etc.
> > >>>
> > >>> You can understand my hesitation about using this since it's a helo
> > >>> (they aren't the smoothest) with two FADEC's that can't be
> > >>> electrically
> > >>> interrupted. Are there any stronger or more reliable contactors,
> > >>> perhaps even solid state? Any suggestions for how to fix this?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> What's your battery voltage? It may be so low as to
> > >> severely reduce the holding force of the coil in the
> > >> energized mode . . . but it has to sag really low. Measure
> > >> the voltage across the coil while energized (battery+
> > >> terminal to small terminal).
> > >>
> > >> If the voltage is over 10v, I'd like to get my hands on that
> > >> contactor. If you'll send me you address, I'll have B&C ship
> > >> you one of their battery contactors today and you can send
> > >> me your questionable device. There's something seriously
> > >> wrong with it if you can get interruptions with vibration.
> > >>
> > >> Bob . . .
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> _-
> > >> ======================================================================
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> _-
> > >> ======================================================================
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
> > >> _-
> > >> ======================================================================
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> _-
> > >> ======================================================================
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > _-
> > > =======================================================================
> > >
> > > _-
> > > =======================================================================
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
> > > _-
> > > =======================================================================
> > >
> > > _-
> > > =======================================================================
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
--
Jim Sower
Crossville, TN; Chapter 5
Long-EZ N83RT, Velocity N4095T
Message 21
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| Subject: | Crowbar overvoltage protector ... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net>
I've heard that Bob sells these "crowbar overvoltage protectors". I need one pretty
bad.
I've been to the web site but can't find one there. Did I hear wrong? How do
I protect from
alternator runaway?
Thanks,
Jim Sower
Long-EZ N83RT, Velocity N4095T
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