Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:22 AM - Pitot tube thermostat (Gary Casey)
2. 06:01 AM - Re: Pitot tube thermostat (Neville Kilford)
3. 07:26 AM - Re: Pitot tube thermostat (caspainhower@aep.com)
4. 09:43 AM - Re: Strobe head fix and silicone (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 11:32 AM - Re: question on Z1 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 11:41 AM - BS-1 Bond studs (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 11:56 AM - ProCrimper II Dies / Question (Dwight Frye)
8. 12:02 PM - Re: Pitot tube thermostat (Eric M. Jones)
9. 12:02 PM - Ground Wires (frequent flyer)
10. 02:33 PM - thermistors for low fuel warning (Joa Harrison)
11. 04:04 PM - Re: Ground Wires (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 04:36 PM - Neutral cure silicone (Rob W M Shipley)
13. 05:32 PM - Transponder Main bus or Essential Bus (Charlie Kuss)
14. 06:45 PM - Re: Transponder Main bus or Essential Bus (Bruce Gray)
15. 09:15 PM - Re: Transponder Main bus or Essential Bus (Ernest Kells)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Pitot tube thermostat |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
Has anyone implemented a thermostatically-controlled pitot tube heating
system? On the Lancair I'm building I tested the pitot tube heater and it
seems to be way more powerful than it needs to be, or at least what I would
expect. I'm afraid that if it is left on while on the ground it might
actually overheat the plastic in the wing. But then if a simple
thermostatic switch were connected in series there are failure modes that
might not be detectable. Just wondered if anyone has gone through this
before.
Gary Casey
Lancair ES
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube thermostat |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
How about a simple air pressure switch in series with a "Pitot heater"
warning light? You would only receive the warning light if you have the
pitot heater on whilst on the ground.
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Pitot tube thermostat
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey"
<glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
> Has anyone implemented a thermostatically-controlled pitot tube heating
> system? On the Lancair I'm building I tested the pitot tube heater and it
> seems to be way more powerful than it needs to be, or at least what I would
> expect. I'm afraid that if it is left on while on the ground it might
> actually overheat the plastic in the wing. But then if a simple
> thermostatic switch were connected in series there are failure modes that
> might not be detectable. Just wondered if anyone has gone through this
> before.
>
> Gary Casey
> Lancair ES
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube thermostat |
10/16/2003 10:22:34 AM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: caspainhower@aep.com
Another option would be to use a bi-metalic temperature switch (mounted in
the wing) to turn on the heater. If you use an indicating light to show
when the heater is on and an override for the switch (a dash mounted switch
by-passing the temp switch, the indicating light would wire into this
switch). That way failures will be detectable and the pitot heater can
still be manually controlled.
Craig S.
601 XL
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford"
<nkilford@etravel.org>
How about a simple air pressure switch in series with a "Pitot heater"
warning light? You would only receive the warning light if you have the
pitot heater on whilst on the ground.
Nev
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey"
<glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
> Has anyone implemented a thermostatically-controlled pitot tube heating
> system? On the Lancair I'm building I tested the pitot tube heater and
it
> seems to be way more powerful than it needs to be, or at least what I
would
> expect. I'm afraid that if it is left on while on the ground it might
> actually overheat the plastic in the wing. But then if a simple
> thermostatic switch were connected in series there are failure modes that
> might not be detectable. Just wondered if anyone has gone through this
> before.
>
> Gary Casey
> Lancair ES
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe head fix and silicone |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:00 AM 10/15/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
>
>Is "neutral cure" silicone as strong, weather resistant and temperature
>restistant, etc, as the acetic acid stuff?
That's a good question.
Here's a quick look at a non-acid version
http://www.americansealantsinc.com/asi335.htm
with more detailed specs here
http://www.americansealantsinc.com/tecasi335.htm
and one that stinks . . .
http://www.americansealantsinc.com/asi502.htm
http://www.americansealantsinc.com/tecasi502.htm
. . . of course, there are hundreds of comparable
products by various manufacturers but at first
blush, the two products cited above are in the same
ballpark for performance.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: question on Z1 |
nlxcorp.com>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:14 PM 10/15/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Thanks Bob for such and immediate response!
>
>I'm still using the some of the old diagrams because those are the ones I
>have marked up when I thought I would be doing the electrical system (5
>years ago). I think I have all the updates, but not much has changed for
>my aircraft.
Understand . . .
>I'm glad I was correct on all counts (don't want my parents to think I
>wasted my time in engineering school). Regarding the auto bus shedding...
>it seems then the only reason to have the diode array is put power to the
>essential bus when the master switch is on. In a failed alternator
>scenario, the pilot must then be careful not to switch off the master
>switch before he switches on the alternate essential bus feed (the order
>you put in your response), or you will kill the essential bus momentarily.
yes . . . which is usually of no consequence . . .
>Unless there is some other reason for the diode array? I think 2
>switches, one for the main bus and one for the essential bus is best for
>me because, I don't think I want to have to remember the order. As a
>matter of fact... if I ran the fuel pump / primer valve to the battery
>bus, the essential bus turns into an avionics master switch!
The diode prevents inadvertent positioning of the switches
such that the endurance bus BACKFEEDS to the main bus . . .
potentially blowing the e-bus alternate feed fuse. I DO NOT
recommend replacing this with a switch. Also, resist the urge
to replace the alternate feed switch and with a two-position
switch for NORMAL/ALTERNATE power of the e-bus . . . this
offers a single point of failure for both power paths to
the e-bus.
See chapter 17 of the updates.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
Message 6
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>Comments/Questions: Bob, re your bond studs - BS-1. You specify E6000
>adhesive. I've used epoxy/flox per plans on my Velocity where aluminum has
>to be bonded to fibreglass. Of course I'll test, but do you see a problem
>with using epoxy/flox instead of E6000?
I'm not a subject matter expert on bonding. The only thing
I can attest to is my own testing with E-6000. No doubt,
there are many options. Ran across an interesting new
adhesive with some pretty amazing characteristics. It's
called Gorilla Glue . . . See:
http://www.gorillaglue.com/theglue/
I've got a bottle and will be doing some hands-on
testing for bonding the BS-1 and other tasks.
This stuff is water activated but waterproof
after setup. Doesn't stink. Doesn't melt plastic.
etc. etc.
>I'm not sure how many I'll need, does 50 seem a reasonable number to
>secure brake lines, oil lines (it's a canard with oil cooler in the nose)
>and various electrical bundles. I'd rather have 10 too many than 1 too few
>so any suggestions appreciated.
I had one guy order 100 of them! I hope he's ordering
for himself and another builder too . . . I can't imagine
needing 100 for the run-of-the-mill SE OBAM airplane project.
If you have some left over, just advertise them on the
List. I'll run out one day and there are NO known sources
for more. Who knows, after I run out, you might be able
to auction them off for a lot more than I get for them
now (basic studies in laws of supply and demand).
>Took your seminar in Watsonville last year it was excellent. I also lurk
>on the Aeroelectric list and continue to learn a lot..
Thank you for the kind words. Pass the word in your
neighborhood, there's another Watsonville program
coming up in a few weeks.
Holler if we can help.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | ProCrimper II Dies / Question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
I picked up a spiffy AMP ProCrimper II and it came with the default
dies for the FASTON style of terminals. I want to also get dies to
crimp both BNC connectors, as well as Dsub style pins. I am wanting to
double check with the wizards here about which dies to get to be sure
I don't end up with the wrong thing for the job. In particular I want
to make sure I get the right dies to use with pins and connectors I
can purchase from B&C (my electrical component supplier of choice).
In looking at the flyer that comes with the unit (a copy of which can be
found at the URL http://www.openweave.org/RV7/misc/ProCrimperII.pdf) it
seems to me that for BNC connectors clearly the only choice is part
number 82074. For the Dsub pins I am less sure. There are two dies that
look likely ... 82068 and 82181. However, only the first of the two have
explicit references to Dsub pins ... so I'm guessing that the right die
to get here would be 82068. Am I on the right track?
It is also my thought that the bulk of my connections will be Dsub, BNC,
or FASTON crimps. Is there anything critical I'm missing here?
I believe this is my first posting to the Aeroelectric list, but I am
absolutely certain it will NOT be my last. :) Thanks for all the good
advice and assistance you folks provide!
-- Dwight
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube thermostat |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey"
<glcasey@adelphia.net>
> Has anyone implemented a thermostatically-controlled pitot tube heating
> system? On the Lancair I'm building I tested the pitot tube heater and it
> seems to be way more powerful than it needs to be,
Gary et al:
I designed it and tested it in my refrigerator. This winter it will go out
into the snow. If you're interested let me know.
Check: www.periheliondesign.com/pitotc46.pdf C46 pitot tube for reference
and
www.periheliondesign.com/thermopitot.pdf I will revise the internal parts
but it should work the same.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
"I only regret my economies."
--Reynolds Price
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com>
I think I already know the answer but if I'm going to
run wires for my position lights and my landing lights
out to the wing tips in my Glasair do I need two
seperate ground wires or or can I just run one wire
that will handle the curent for both lights?
Thanks,
Jack
__________________________________
Message 10
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| Subject: | thermistors for low fuel warning |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joa Harrison <flyasuperseven@yahoo.com>
I have the need for two thermistors for low fuel warning. The first is for my
homebuilt and needs to be 14 vdc, very affordable, and fairly robust. The second
is for a 28vdc certified design (to replace a float switch) and must be made
for certified aircraft (or the military). I need info on the first one for
my hobby (well, thats what my wife calls it, I prefer to call it my secondary
vocation) and the second one is for my day job (and what I call my hobby!)
What would you all suggest?
Thanks!
Joa
---------------------------------
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Ground Wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:59 AM 10/16/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com>
>
>I think I already know the answer but if I'm going to
>run wires for my position lights and my landing lights
>out to the wing tips in my Glasair do I need two
>seperate ground wires or or can I just run one wire
>that will handle the curent for both lights?
>
>Thanks,
If you have a metal structure, why not ground each item
locally to structure? In any case, I try to avoid having
multiple systems share components . . . single failure
takes out both systems. But if it doesn't matter to you,
then what you propose will certainly function.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Neutral cure silicone |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
It performs just as well as it's acetic acid curing counterpart. When you ask
if it is "as strong" as the other form do remember that none of the silicones
should be viewed as a structural adhesives. If you need a waterproof adhesive/sealer
which has significant strength you need to be considering urethane adhesives.
These are used to install auto windshields and in this application must
retain the windshield in the event of an airbag deploying. This can place
an almost instantaneous load of up to half a ton of outward pressure. I know
of one builder who used this type of adhesive to attach hi canopy to the frame
of a slider and I am actually considering the same method for my 9 tipper.
Fly safe
Rob
From: richard@riley.net
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Strobe head fix and silicone
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
Is "neutral cure" silicone as strong, weather resistant and temperature
restistant, etc, as the acetic acid stuff?
At 09:57 PM 10/13/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
>
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Strobe head fix
>
> >Can silicone be used to re-seal the glass lens to the transformer/plastic
> >base of the head ?
> >If so, what grade is best ?
>Bob's answer was
> Electronic grade (does not smell of vinegar).
>
>This is also known as "neutral cure" silicone and should be available for
>less than five bucks a tube from any auto glass shop. This is a far safer
>product to use around any metal construction as it is non acidic than the
>normal silicones which contain acetic acid.
>Clean the surfaces carefully with alcohol and allow to dry before
>applying. Depending on how thickly you apply it it can take over twenty
>four hours to fully cure so make sure the parts are held together at least
>overnight.
>Good luck
>Rob
>Rob W M Shipley
>RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Transponder Main bus or Essential Bus |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Listers,
Which bus would you wire the Transponder to, and why?
Charlie Kuss
Message 14
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| Subject: | Transponder Main bus or Essential Bus |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Essential bus - The transponder has an off switch so why sweat it.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Charlie Kuss
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Transponder Main bus or Essential Bus
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
<chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Listers,
Which bus would you wire the Transponder to, and why?
Charlie Kuss
==
==
==
==
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder Main bus or Essential Bus |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
I agree on the essential bus. But you could just leave it on - it will
consume very little power. It will be ready to use, especially in an
emergency. It only consumes non-trivial power when you need to transmit for
a few seconds.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90 plus % Complete - seat kit arrived today
> Essential bus - The transponder has an off switch so why sweat it.
Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
> Which bus would you wire the Transponder to, and why?
> Charlie Kuss
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