Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:39 AM - Re: (Steve Sampson)
2. 10:52 AM - Re: Neutral cure silicone (Larry)
3. 12:39 PM - Crimping dies (Eric M. Jones)
4. 05:20 PM - Re: AWG (Scott, Ian)
5. 05:32 PM - Alternator Terminals ... (Jim Sower)
6. 07:08 PM - Romulin disrupter (plaurence@the-beach.net)
7. 08:28 PM - Re: Romulin disrupter (Robinson, Chad)
8. 08:52 PM - Re: Battery Contactor vibration problem (Vince Ackerman)
9. 10:41 PM - Bob, thermistors for low fuel warning WARNING (Jerzy Krasinski)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Eric - thanks for that. It got switched in back emails from 1N400x to
IN400x. I am sure I will find it now. Thanks, Steve.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eric
M. Jones
Subject: AeroElectric-List:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
I hope Bob doesn't mind my butting in.
Steve: Remarkably, the ST BZW06-31 won't do.
Farnell in the UK (Newark in the US) has billions and billions of 1N4005. If
they are sold out use a 1N4004, or 5, or 6, or 7. Easy to get. By the Way
that's ONE-N4004!
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Neutral cure silicone |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Larry <larry@grrok.com>
??Will these urethane adhesives hold paint??
At 05:34 PM 10/16/03, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
>
>It performs just as well as it's acetic acid curing counterpart. When you
>ask if it is "as strong" as the other form do remember that none of the
>silicones should be viewed as a structural adhesives. If you need a
>waterproof adhesive/sealer which has significant strength you need to be
>considering urethane adhesives. These are used to install auto
>windshields and in this application must retain the windshield in the
>event of an airbag deploying. This can place an almost instantaneous load
>of up to half a ton of outward pressure. I know of one builder who used
>this type of adhesive to attach hi canopy to the frame of a slider and I
>am actually considering the same method for my 9 tipper.
>Fly safe
>Rob
>
>From: richard@riley.net
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Strobe head fix and silicone
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
>
>Is "neutral cure" silicone as strong, weather resistant and temperature
>restistant, etc, as the acetic acid stuff?
>
>
>At 09:57 PM 10/13/03 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley"
> <rob@robsglass.com>
> >
> >Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Strobe head fix
> >
> > >Can silicone be used to re-seal the glass lens to the transformer/plastic
> > >base of the head ?
> > >If so, what grade is best ?
> >Bob's answer was
> > Electronic grade (does not smell of vinegar).
> >
> >This is also known as "neutral cure" silicone and should be available for
> >less than five bucks a tube from any auto glass shop. This is a far safer
> >product to use around any metal construction as it is non acidic than the
> >normal silicones which contain acetic acid.
> >Clean the surfaces carefully with alcohol and allow to dry before
> >applying. Depending on how thickly you apply it it can take over twenty
> >four hours to fully cure so make sure the parts are held together at least
> >overnight.
> >Good luck
> >Rob
> >Rob W M Shipley
> >RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
In preparation for the "CCA FatCables", I am searching for good crimping
dies for AWG 1/0 to AWG 8 or so. Does anyone have a suggestion for good
quality crimpers for these sizes for not too much money?
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Heaven: A place where the French are the cooks,
the Germans are the engineers,
and the British are the policemen.
Hell: A place where the British are the
cooks, the French are the engineers,
and the Germans are the policemen.
--unknown
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott, Ian" <ian_scott@rslcom.com.au>
HI Bob,
Received the copy of the connection, and the Audio ISO board, thanks.
As We do not have the same suppliers in Australia, I am wondering if you have a
generic parts list for the parts in the Audio Amp.
thanks
Ian
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Message 5
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aeroelectric-list@matronics.com, reflector@tvbf.org
| Subject: | Alternator Terminals ... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net>
Question for all you EEs out there. I'm putting a new alternator on my
Velocity. This one will be internally regulated (and have the appropriate
"crowbar" OV protection. The unit I am installing has two terminals
arranged in a "T". One is "field" and the other is "Indicator" (idiot
light). I am blessed that the builder didn't have a 20- or 22- ga wire to
string from the "Alt" (split Alt-Master) switch, so he used both conductors
of 2-wire shielded 24 ga for the 12 ft run from the switch to the
regulator. Anyway, I am betting that one will be enough to excite the
regulator and I can use the other for an idiot light.
Thing is, I have to determine which is which and how the "I" lead works (is
it hot or grounded when there is no output). I aim to wire things up with
jumpers and spin the alternator by hand, so to get the charging voltage at
B+ I will need a resistor between B+ and the line back to the battery. That
done, I can connect stuff up and see if, when all ready to go, the "I" lead
is hot or grounded, and if it goes cold or breaks ground connection when I
spin up the unit.
My questions are: Will this work (will I be able to easily twirl the pulley
and get charging voltage if I put the proper resistor in the circuit (so it
doesn't have to generate much current in order to build up charging
voltage)? What would be an appropriate resistance (and size) of the
resistor I am placing in the circuit?
I know I could have all this done at an alternator rebuild shop, but there's
none convenient to me
Hope this will work. Makes sense to me at this point .... Jim S.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Romulin disrupter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net
Bob
I'm helping a friend wire a Velocity XL RG. The Panel was done at a very well known
avionics shop.
There are twelve relays that switch position lights, strobes, pitot heat, bat master
start , electronic ignition, etc. The switch panel for these items are overhead.
The
logic for these relays was that running "high" currents through wires ( position
lights?)
extending from the fuselage to the overhead switch panel, would create some type
of
electrical interference , Magnetic fields, or the like and possibly disrupt panel
avionics.
Opinion?
Peter
Message 7
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| Subject: | Romulin disrupter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robinson, Chad" <crobinson@rfgonline.com>
> I'm helping a friend wire a Velocity XL RG. The Panel was done at a very well
known
> avionics shop.
>
> There are twelve relays that switch position lights, strobes, pitot heat, bat
master
> start , electronic ignition, etc. The switch panel for these items are overhead.
The
> logic for these relays was that running "high" currents through wires ( position
lights?)
> extending from the fuselage to the overhead switch panel, would create some type
of
> electrical interference , Magnetic fields, or the like and possibly disrupt panel
> avionics.
Unless there is some noise (which is AC) being placed on the wires, DC current
shouldn't create RF interference but it will create a magnetic field. So DC can
mess up a compass but shouldn't emit anything that might screw up, say, a radio
unless you have a lot of noise on your electrical bus to begin with. FWIW,
the switch panel is normally a lot closer to those "sensitive" avionics. Unless
you have a compass close by, you should be fine. Heck, the metal in the switch
bodies will have an effect on a compass if they're close enough, depending
on the type used.
IMHO, if you DO have such a noisy bus that those wires act as antennae, you'd be
better off rigging a shield braid around them or better still, figuring out
and solving the source of your noise instead of having so many extra parts that
could fail (the relays). Bob has a great guide on his site that shows you how
to create a "choke" to isolate the noise, if you can figure out where it's coming
from.
But it's your plane. I like Bob's "fly comfortably" saying here.
Regards,
Chad
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Contactor vibration problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
Hey Bob,
Got the B&C Contactor you generously sent me, and installed it today (
thanks again, you da man). Did my "tap" test and it seems to work
perfectly. I did take someone on the lists advice and mount it
horizontally, but it works great and never disconnected no matter how
much I tapped on the bracket it's mounted to. That gives me a little
piece of mind.
Did you have a chance to look at the one I sent you?
Thanks again
Vince
On Tuesday, October 7, 2003, at 06:45 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 09:00 PM 10/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Vince Ackerman <vack@mac.com>
>>
>> I installed a battery master switch with contactor (one or the 3
>> terminal ones sold by Aircraft Spruce) on my Rotorway 162f project.
>> For
>> reasons of space I installed it upside down. While testing out the
>> electrical system I noticed that tapping with a small rubber mallet on
>> the bracket that it's mounted to will cause it to interrupt the power
>> momentarily. It doesn't matter if I tap from top or bottom, it seems
>> to disconnect for a split second. I know it's disconnecting because my
>> rotor tach goes through it's initialization test on first power up,
>> and
>> it's doing that every time. Also, other indicator lights flicker, so
>> it's not just the tach, nor loose battery leads, etc.
>>
>> You can understand my hesitation about using this since it's a helo
>> (they aren't the smoothest) with two FADEC's that can't be
>> electrically
>> interrupted. Are there any stronger or more reliable contactors,
>> perhaps even solid state? Any suggestions for how to fix this?
>
>
> What's your battery voltage? It may be so low as to
> severely reduce the holding force of the coil in the
> energized mode . . . but it has to sag really low. Measure
> the voltage across the coil while energized (battery+
> terminal to small terminal).
>
> If the voltage is over 10v, I'd like to get my hands on that
> contactor. If you'll send me you address, I'll have B&C ship
> you one of their battery contactors today and you can send
> me your questionable device. There's something seriously
> wrong with it if you can get interruptions with vibration.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Bob, thermistors for low fuel warning WARNING |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski@direcway.com>
Bob Kuc wrote:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Kuc" <bkuc1@tampabay.rr.com>
Jim,
I bench tested these sensors. You feed them 12 volts. When they are in
fuel the resistance is so high that the LED will not light. When it is out
of fuel the led lights up. It has been a while, I do not remember if I had
a resister in line or not. I do not believe so........
Bob,
This thermistor seems to have large resistance while within fuel and
cold, it heats up and its resistance goes down when out of fuel. If the
circuit does not have any additional elements it seems that it uses a
negative thermal coefficient (NTC) thermistor.
It is a bad idea to connect a NTC thermistor to a hard voltage source
without a serial current limiting resistor . Such a circuit might get
a subject of thermal runaway.
It works like that: No cooling to the thermistor so its temperature
increases, increase of temperature decreases its resistance, so more
current flows through it, more current generates more heat, so its
temperature increases further and faster, until something melts. Once
it started to go it takes few seconds.
A resistor in series would limit the maximum current. You can select it
so the maximum current is safe. That resistor might be a part of the
circuit of the sensor you have tested, or it might not be there. I
would suggest to check it.
Presence of LED in the loop will not stop the instability cycle because
voltage on a LED does not change much with current. However a
traditional bulb would work fine as a current limiter.
You might get away without resistor if NTC thermistor is large with a
lot of cooling, its resistance around room temperature is large and
applied voltage low, so initial power lost in the thermistor is small.
Unfortunately, it is not exactly as you plan to use it - you want large
temperature change between condition with and without cooling and that
implies significant power lost in the thermistor.
As I said, sometimes you might get away without current limiting
resistor, but you run a potentially unstable circuit that is just
waiting for an occasion to blow, which might happen on a warmer day, or
when you look the other way.
Jerzy
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