Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:54 AM - Re: Garmin-AT ACU resolver questions (Richard V. Reynolds)
2. 06:31 AM - Re: Garmin-AT ACU resolver questions (Ralph E. Capen)
3. 08:53 AM - Re: Dual Alts (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 08:58 AM - Re: Re: Ground wire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 09:56 AM - Another Dumb Builder (Speedy11@aol.com)
6. 11:00 AM - Re: Re: Dual Alts (Paul Wilson)
7. 11:11 AM - Re: Messages (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 11:36 AM - Re: Current Limiters (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 01:47 PM - Troubleshooting Loadmeter.....repost (rmickey@ix.netcom.com)
10. 02:22 PM - Re: Broken link on your website (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 02:26 PM - PTT Ground (Richard Dudley)
12. 02:28 PM - Re: Dual Battery System With Standby Battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 02:30 PM - Re: Another Dumb Builder (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 03:37 PM - wingtip vor antenna for 185? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 04:11 PM - Dual Alts (Jim Butcher)
16. 07:37 PM - Re: Troubleshooting Loadmeter.....repost (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 07:38 PM - Re: PTT Ground (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 09:30 PM - Electrical wire ... (Jim Sower)
19. 11:45 PM - Re: Electrical wire ... (Tammy and Mike Salzman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin-AT ACU resolver questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
Ralph,
I considered buying a Century NSD-1000 HSI because it was $1000 cheaper than a
S-TEC 180 HSI. After paying $130 for the install manual I realized that the Century
required an extra "black box" to interface to the GX60/SL30. I purchased
a S-TEC 180.
I developed wiring diagram for the Century.
Contact me off line if you want the diagram (EXCEL based).
Richard Reynolds
"Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I am installing a UPSAT full stack with GX-60 and SL-30 with their ACU attached
to a Century NSD-1000 HSI as the primary display indicator.
>
> Here's my question: With the SL-30 NAV side set to output resolver signals (not
switched by the ACU - supposed to be direct connected to the display) and
the GX-60 outputting converter signalling (all it has) switched through the ACU,
with the ACU set for GPS (sending the GPS converter signalling to the display)
the SL-30 being direct connected can still send its resolver signals to the
display....what happens when the display "sees" both sets of signals? I would
think that they could cause the indicator to do weird things - especially if
they are directionally conflicting.
>
> I have contacted the Garmin-AT folks about this...they want to look at the pinouts
for my NSD1000. Their system is configured the same way if you were to
use their display head and wire it the way their website - and documentation shows.
Maybe their gear ignores one set of signals - or favors one set over the
other.
>
> There are a pair of take-offs from the ACU that I could use to pick a set of
relays to prevent this from happening...or figure out a way to set the SL-30 NAV
side to an off configuration while I'm using the GPS.
>
> What are your thoughts on this? I'm puzzled.
>
> Ralph Capen
> RV6A - wiring..........
>
Message 2
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<aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: Garmin-AT ACU resolver questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Alex,
ACU is the acronym for Annunciation Control Unit. Essentially a relay box
designed to switch between GPS and NAV signals to a single display head and
indicate which source is in use...in addition to a couple of other functions
reguired for IFR operations.
I am describing the course deviation signals that you have referred to and
agree completely with your statement about more than one signal....
I know what I can do about it - my intent here is to determine if I need to
as even the UPSAT / Garmin AT website shows a diagram with the potential for
both signals to get to the display. See:
http://www.garmin-at.com/dwnlds/stackdoc/fullstackwiring.pdf It clearly
shows their CDI directly attached to their SL-30 and through their ACU.
We'll get to the bottom of this soon - I hope!
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Garmin-AT ACU resolver questions
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
>
> >
> > I am installing a UPSAT full stack with GX-60 and SL-30 with
> > their ACU attached to a Century NSD-1000 HSI as the primary
> > display indicator.
> >
> > Here's my question: With the SL-30 NAV side set to output
> > resolver signals (not switched by the ACU - supposed to be
> > direct connected to the display) and the GX-60 outputting
> > converter signalling (all it has) switched through the ACU,
> > with the ACU set for GPS (sending the GPS converter
> > signalling to the display) the SL-30 being direct connected
> > can still send its resolver signals to the display....what
> > happens when the display "sees" both sets of signals? I
> > would think that they could cause the indicator to do weird
> > things - especially if they are directionally conflicting.
>
> Ralph, I cannot understand your question. Please clarify a couple
> things.
>
> What is an ACU?
>
> When you talk about resolver stuff, are you perhaps talking about the
> course deviation indicator signals? My understanding of the resolver is
> that it is the method by which the Nav radio knows what direction you
> have the OBS pointed.
>
> In any case, it would seem not right to have a situation where more than
> one signal can get to anything.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
Message 3
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:22 PM 10/31/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Bob,
>
>Thanks for the reply. Idea is to use the Rotax alt for about 15 to 20 A
>and the SD20 on the vac pad for 10A.
>
>Load analysis shows 22 A for VFR Day and 29 A for VFR nite (position
>lights which will soon be replaced with LED's so much less draw). IFR
>adds 15A for pitot heat.
>
>I'd like to avoid the complexity of the crankshaft back alt but maybe
>thats the best solution. Any idea where to get more detail? I know Jim
>Nelson has one on his Europa but it was a custom one off deal.
>
>After reading your book some more, maybe the Z14 is a better choice given
>the comments on page 17-10 on the difficulities of paralleling two
>alternators. But I'd really like to avoid two batteries because of weight
>& balance. Is the parallel regulator available or buildable (I'm fairly
>electronic knowledgable)?
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
I'll suggest that your proposed installation is pretty
far off of the mark for the elegant solution. You're
proposing to take B&C's most expensive alternator
(capable of 40A but de-rated to 20A based on speed
available at the mounting pad) and de-rating it further
to 10A 'cause the Rotax pad is slower still. This
forces the alternator to run in the same pack as
B&C's least expensive alternator that is designed
to put out 10A max performance.
I've seen pictures of several alternator installations
on the rear of Rotax engines both belt and direct drive.
If your space under the cowl permits either of these
installations, I'd really recommend you explore them.
If you went belt drive, you can use a very inexpensive
automotive take-off as the alternator which would
give you a REAL energy source for probably less money
than putting an SD-20 on the vacuum pump pad.
For my airplane, Figure Z-13 would be the architecture
of choice with the Rotax 18A machine filling the slot
as AUX ALTernator.
I'd really hate to see you put this fine machine together
with almost-a-30-amp-system that depends on both alternators
to be functioning and will cost more than a much more
capable system as cited above.
Your load analysis figures are suspect too. Can you
share them with us? The largest IFR/VFR-Nite load I've calculated
for a light SE aircraft to date was on the order of 27 A
with pitot heat on and incandescent bulbs for nav lights.
Your 22A daytime loads seem high.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Well considered and technically elegant answers to
all of your questions are waiting for you there. Also,
check out the downloadable materials at
http://www.aeroelectric.com
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:49 PM 11/1/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Szantho" <szantho@usa.com>
>
>I am working on the landing light, recognition light, strobe and roll servo
>wiring for my RV9-A wings. What is the best way to wire the ground? Should I
>go directly from each device to the wing front spar (multiple ground points
>(faston tabs?)), or should I run a #10 wire (would this be the optimum
>size?) for the entire length of the wing to a common ground point in the
>fuselage/wings and connect to this common ground wire? I could run this wire
>in a conduit I have in each wing. I feel somewhat lost, may be there are
>other options? Can anyone help?
>
>John Szantho (RV9-A wings)
You don't need to take these wires all the way to the firewall
single-point ground and you DO NOT want to run them together on
a single FAT ground. On a metal airplane these can ground locally
to the airframe. On a composite airplane, these items would each
get their own ground wire to the single-point ground.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Another Dumb Builder |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Speedy11@aol.com
Bob - and anyone else with experience,
I am building a RV-8A and need some advice before launching into the ether
world of electricity. I have your book and have read most of it and understood
only a little - hence the title of this posting.
I'm planning an IO-360 with belt-driven 60A Main alternator and gear-driven
20A Aux alternator with dual batteries. The electrical system would be a split
system with a crossfeed connector in case one alternator fails. The main
battery will be in the front (for short wires) and the aux in the back (for CG)
with ground busses near both batteries.
I plan to fly IFR using the BMA EFIS with EFIS Lite as a backup. My question
is: Is this electrical plan overkill? Do I need two batteries AND two
alternators? Am I increasing weight and complexity unnecessarily? Given my planned
operation, what might the optimum electrical system be?
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa, FL
RV-8A Wings
Message 6
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Paul Wilson <pwilson@climber.org>
Jim,
The Rotax needs an expensive mod to utilize the vacuum pad because they do not
ship the engines with the internal gears. Of course you can special order an
engine with the gears or have one of the distributors take the gear box apart
and add the aux gears. But as Bob points out the result is such a slow turning
alternator that it is practically worthless.
My suggestions are as follows in order of the simplest solution:
1) Just use the Rotax alternator and go flying with your low voltage monitor.
When the LV light comes on go to the the endurance buss while the battery is recharged.
Cycle back and forth until you get the feel for how long it takes to
charge the battery. After each flight charge the battery using ground power.
2) Add a second battery which would be lighter than the second alternator and
wire it in parallel with the other one. The use the technique of method 1) but
you will have much longer range and less need to fly on the endurance buss.
3) Add a second alternator which has three solutions:
A) Buy/make a longer bolt for the stator and mount a pulley on the stator for a
vee belt and mount the new alternator at the rear of the engine on one side or
another. This has promise as there are several places to bolt on a bracket.
B) If you have the Rotax engine mount and have engine to firewall clearance then
you can mount the alternator on a custom bracket and operate it via direct drive
from a modified stator bolt with splines. This solution works on Europa's
and possibly others. This requires a precise machining operation as alignment
is quite critical and if not perfect the alternator will self destruct and possibly
cause stator damage, not good.
C) Mount the alternator in front. Three ways:
1) DIY with a prop flange adapter and purchased or home made bracket.
2) Rotax sells a kit for a bunch of $ that works like 1).
3) A Canada company sells a kit for less money but uses the ND alternator.
Any front mount would likely result in a big blister to cover the alternator.
Its kinda discouraging that Rotax has such low wattage. I guess they did not expect
the engines to be used for IFR with all the goodies.
Load reductions to consider: Use as many tricks as you can think of to reduce you
wattage. LED panel, landing, & position lights, no pitot heat etc. Wire your
position lights in series
Good luck with your project,
Paul
========.
At 10:52 AM -0600 11/2/03, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>At 04:22 PM 10/31/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>>Hi Bob,
>>
>>Thanks for the reply. Idea is to use the Rotax alt for about 15 to 20 A
>>and the SD20 on the vac pad for 10A.
>>
>>Load analysis shows 22 A for VFR Day and 29 A for VFR nite (position
>>lights which will soon be replaced with LED's so much less draw). IFR
>>adds 15A for pitot heat.
>>
>>I'd like to avoid the complexity of the crankshaft back alt but maybe
>>thats the best solution. Any idea where to get more detail? I know Jim
>>Nelson has one on his Europa but it was a custom one off deal.
>>
>>After reading your book some more, maybe the Z14 is a better choice given
>>the comments on page 17-10 on the difficulities of paralleling two
>>alternators. But I'd really like to avoid two batteries because of weight
>>& balance. Is the parallel regulator available or buildable (I'm fairly
>>electronic knowledgable)?
>>
>>Thanks for your help.
>>
>
>
> I'll suggest that your proposed installation is pretty
> far off of the mark for the elegant solution. You're
> proposing to take B&C's most expensive alternator
> (capable of 40A but de-rated to 20A based on speed
> available at the mounting pad) and de-rating it further
> to 10A 'cause the Rotax pad is slower still. This
> forces the alternator to run in the same pack as
> B&C's least expensive alternator that is designed
> to put out 10A max performance.
>
> I've seen pictures of several alternator installations
> on the rear of Rotax engines both belt and direct drive.
> If your space under the cowl permits either of these
> installations, I'd really recommend you explore them.
> If you went belt drive, you can use a very inexpensive
> automotive take-off as the alternator which would
> give you a REAL energy source for probably less money
> than putting an SD-20 on the vacuum pump pad.
>
> For my airplane, Figure Z-13 would be the architecture
> of choice with the Rotax 18A machine filling the slot
> as AUX ALTernator.
>
> I'd really hate to see you put this fine machine together
> with almost-a-30-amp-system that depends on both alternators
> to be functioning and will cost more than a much more
> capable system as cited above.
>
> Your load analysis figures are suspect too. Can you
> share them with us? The largest IFR/VFR-Nite load I've calculated
> for a light SE aircraft to date was on the order of 27 A
> with pitot heat on and incandescent bulbs for nav lights.
> Your 22A daytime loads seem high.
>
> I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
> to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
> share the information with as many folks as possible.
> A further benefit can be realized with membership on
> the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
> on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
> join at . . .
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
>
> Well considered and technically elegant answers to
> all of your questions are waiting for you there. Also,
> check out the downloadable materials at
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob . . .
>
> |---------------------------------------------------|
> | A lie can travel half way around the world while |
> | the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
> | -Mark Twain- |
> |---------------------------------------------------|
>
>
--
Message 7
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:40 PM 11/1/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Bob,
>
>I don't know if you are getting the messages or not. Could you let me
>know. No offense but I feel like I'm being avoided.
>
>Thanks for your hard work and dedication.
>
Yes, I got them. You sent these inquiries to me directly as opposed to
posting on the list. I have a limited amount of time
to work these tasks and I start each session with the latest
AeroElectric-List messages and work backwards. If I did
not do this, my responses would fall way behind
on-going conversations.
I try to work in the one-on-one inquiries but they have to
take a back-seat to List-server conversations and it's
entirely possible that a direct inquiry or even a list-server
inquiry will fall of the back of the truck. So, it never hurts
to post a reminder . . . especially on the list. Not trying
to play any favorites or ignore anyone . . . it's the best
way I know to maximize utilization of a limited resource . . .
time.
With respect to your inquiries. There's nothing about the
list of equipment you cited that points to potential
dragons to slay. I've suggested that it's not so much what
you install but how you install it and what you expect from
the equipment in terms of how you're going to use the airplane.
For example, had you cited the list and said this is a day-vfr
fair-weather fun machine, I'd suggest that you may be wasting
your money. If this is an airplane that you intend to use
for boring long wet holes in the cold clouds, I would have
to opine that you may not have enough stuff and you certainly
offered no insight as to the architecture of your electrical
system. You did mention an "X-bus"???? Is this the EXP-Bus?
I can offer an opinion as to that product: While it no doubt
functions as advertised, it presupposes some things about
your system architecture that may not be attractive. Further,
for what the EXP-Bus costs, you can wire your whole airplane
and probably have money left over if you purchase the components
individually and match them to the architecture of choice.
Let's start with what kind of airplane, how you plan to
use it, have you reviewed the various architectures depicted
in Appendix-Z and are any of them attractive to you? There's
quite a bit to be done before you buy any equipment. Get
this conversation going on the list and we'll all work to help you
configure one of the best airplanes to have ever flown.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Current Limiters |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:25 PM 11/1/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells"
><ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
>
> > You've admitted to some "bad judgement" where I'm having
> > trouble figuring out what's bad about it. As I've suggested
> > to others, lets see what you have in hand, what you want to
> > achieve in the finished product and then figure out the
> > most attractive combination of parts and techniques will
> > get this done. My perception is that you're belabored with
> > some erroneous or at least mis-understood concepts....Bob . . .
> >
>Hello, Bob: You're right - bad judgement with weak skills. I used your
>book for general reading throughout my project. I should have ramped up at
>this stage on the electrical knowledge, before starting this work.
>
>This is what I have done. I installed the 70 amp alternator although I need
>less than 35 amps (VFR only). I "assumed" that if I installed a 35 amp
>breaker on the alternator switch that I would be protected from the
>summation of the electricity drawn by the systems. I penetrated the
>firewall, etc., with wire based upon 40 amps, using a 40 amp shunt/ammeter.
>
>I finally determined that on a low charge battery that the alternator would
>deliver more than the wire could handle - on the wire from the alternator.
>It seems to me that the significant change would involve replacing the #8
>wire from the alternator to the contactor with #4. No ANL fuse/limiter? ? ?
>If I have the 35 amp breaker for the alternator switch it seems that I would
>NOT have to replace the #8 wire from the battery contactor to the main bus
>with #4 (per Z-2). I have #2awg for the battery positive and negative,
>engine ground, master and starter relays and the starter.
the #2 is fine but way oversized for an airplane where the battery
is close to the engine. #4 would have been fine. Even if you're wired
per Van's drawings, I'd recommend you move the alternator b-lead feed
to the starter contactor and install an ANL-60 fuse close to the
contactor. Use 4 or 6AWG for this wire.
Van's drawings call for a battery ammeter a-la C-172 . . . With
the b-lead out of the cockpit, you'll want to consider switching
to an alternator load-meter or perhaps an expanded scale voltmeter.
See:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/vdovolt.php
I presume you're planning on active notification of low voltage
with either a B&C regulator having this feature built in or
buy buying or building one of these:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9005/9005.jpg
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9005/9005-701B.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/lvwarn/9021-620.pdf
>Of course, I must swallow my pride and learn, then analyze requirements,
>then revise the design. BTW: I got into trouble using the Vans electrical
>diagram (OP-10). On a call today they said what I did was alright. HMMM!
>They have sold a lot of RV-6s. Thanks for the tremendous help - Matt too!
Not a problem. I'll suggest you're not prideful, just embarrassed.
Real pride comes from accomplishment based on understanding and
you were just stirring the batter before you had added all the
right ingredients. Hang in there. Completely justifiable pride
will be your due when you taxi up to the pumps behind a line
of Skyhawks and Cherokees. Their paint may be shiny and their
panels impressive but their bones are geriatric . . .
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Troubleshooting Loadmeter.....repost |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rmickey@ix.netcom.com
Bob,
I sent this message last week. Based on your latest email stating that it doesn't
hurt to repost....here it is.
I have one of your Voltmeter/Loadmeters in my 6A. I just started the engine last
week and the voltmeter works fine but I am not getting any reading on the loadmeter.
The Push to test button gives me the correct reading.
How would I go about troubleshooting the loadmeter?
My setup
All electric on a budget wiring...with some tweeks
40 amp B&C
8 amp PM B&C backup
One battery
Shunts on both alternators
A switch selects either the 40 amp or 8 amp alternator for the loadmeter/voltmeter
Another problem I have to track down is that the voltmeter is not reading the 8
amp alternator voltage output.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
Inspection on Thursday
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Broken link on your website |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>Comments/Questions: Bob: The downloadable pdf files for "Stereo music in
>your airplane" are not
>found on your site.
Thanks for the heads up. Those earlier documents were replaced by
the audio isolation amplifier data package at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9009/9009-700D.pdf
I've fixed the link on the website.
> Also, could you comment on a sneaky way to put the audio warnings from
>many modern instruments into a run-of-the-mill intercom? Perhaps using the
>unused passenger inputs (4 place intercom in a 2 place airplane)
It can probably be done. But if you're going to have to add
hard wires to the airplane's warning tone outputs, wouldn't
it be better to install an audio isolation amplifier and do
all the mixing the right way?
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Bob,
Is there likely to be a problem using airframe ground for the PTT return
line rather than the common point ground? I've use the B&C ground for
all avionics and instruments. However, it would be convenient to take
the PTT on the stick to a nearby airframe point.
Thanks.
Richard Dudley
-6A finishing details
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Dual Battery System With Standby Battery |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:37 PM 11/1/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer"
><ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
>
>Bob and all:
>
>I'm helping a friend with his rotary powered RV9A's electrical system.
>
>He wants an all electric system with dual batteries.
>
>But he would like one of the batteries to be on standby and isolated from
>the alternator and charging system. The battery would be charged on the
>ground by a battery charger every couple of months.
>
>Assume that the battery is new when installed.
>
>Can a voltmeter reading, before each fllight, of the standby battery
>predict its ampere hour capacity for the next year or two?
First, has he reviewed the electrical system architectures
depicted in Appendix-Z of the book? If he doesn't have access
to the book, download and print
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev10/z10.pdf
If he's rotary powered, then two alternators are out.
A simple dual battery setup can be had by combining a second
battery (Z-30) with one of the generic single alternator/single
battery (Z-11). This is what I would do if it were my airplane.
I would be interested in knowing what the perceived shortcoming
is for wiring as described above. If my recommendation has
flaws, I need to know it. If he's not taking advantage of this
architecture's features because of his misunderstanding of
how it works, he needs to know it. Let's help each other out.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Another Dumb Builder |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:55 PM 11/2/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Speedy11@aol.com
>
>Bob - and anyone else with experience,
>I am building a RV-8A and need some advice before launching into the ether
>world of electricity. I have your book and have read most of it and
>understood
>only a little - hence the title of this posting.
>
>I'm planning an IO-360 with belt-driven 60A Main alternator and gear-driven
>20A Aux alternator with dual batteries. The electrical system would be a
>split
>system with a crossfeed connector in case one alternator fails. The main
>battery will be in the front (for short wires) and the aux in the back
>(for CG)
>with ground busses near both batteries.
>
>I plan to fly IFR using the BMA EFIS with EFIS Lite as a backup. My question
>is: Is this electrical plan overkill? Do I need two batteries AND two
>alternators? Am I increasing weight and complexity unnecessarily? Given
>my planned
>operation, what might the optimum electrical system be?
We don't have enough information yet. Assuming you do a Figure Z-14
style system, what are sustained loads on the two busses should the main
alternator be off line?
Bob . . .
Message 14
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aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
| Subject: | wingtip vor antenna for 185? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> A friend of mine that always works with you on his Velocity told me to
> email you about my idea of putting a VOR antenna in the Fiberglas wing
> tip of my Cessna 185. I saw in Aircraft Spruce that I can buy a wing tip
> VOR antenna, but if I mount one of these in each wing tip what kind of
> switching device would I use to switch from one to the other.
why two? how much do you REALLY use VOR? most rv builders are finding that
one antenna on a wingtip covers them for the majority of coverage they need
were stations are directly in front or behind you.
>Another idea would be to put a blade antenna on each side of the fuselage
>just behind the cowling about mid way up. Do you think this would work as
>a VOR antenna, or would the hidden wing tips be better. I thought the VORT
>blades on the fuselagee would be sort of like a connard.
>Let you know what you think.
I'd try one under a wingtip and go from there. Personally,
I haven't turned a VOR receiver on in probably 5 years or
more. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/nailgun.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Butcher" <europa@triton.net>
Hi Bob,
Still havent figured out how to reply on the list. Anyway, thanks for your comments.
For load analysis, VFR day
Strobes 2.9 A
Fuel Pumps 2 @ 2 4A
EFIS 5A
Audio Pnl 2.2A
AOA .3A
Eng Elec 1.3A
GNS 430 3 A
GI 106 .5 A
EFIS BU 2A
GTX 327 1 A
Total 22.3 A
For night add
Pos Lites 7.4 A
Pitot 15 A
Total 44.7
Got some good ideas from paul Wilson using belt to drive alt on rear of engine.
thanks
Jim Butcher Europa A185
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Troubleshooting Loadmeter.....repost |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:46 PM 11/2/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rmickey@ix.netcom.com
>
>
>Bob,
>
>I sent this message last week. Based on your latest email stating that it
>doesn't hurt to repost....here it is.
Good idea . . .
>I have one of your Voltmeter/Loadmeters in my 6A. I just started the
>engine last week and the voltmeter works fine but I am not getting any
>reading on the loadmeter. The Push to test button gives me the correct
>reading.
>
>How would I go about troubleshooting the loadmeter?
Disconnect the loadmeter wires at the shunt and put your
ohmmeter on them and see if there is "continuity" . . . you
may have an open splice in a fusible link, bad connection to
ammeter terminals at the instrument or a bad instrument. Measure
continuity also right at the instrument terminals with the wires
pulled off.
>My setup
>
>All electric on a budget wiring...with some tweeks
>
>40 amp B&C
>8 amp PM B&C backup
>One battery
>Shunts on both alternators
>A switch selects either the 40 amp or 8 amp alternator for the
>loadmeter/voltmeter
>
>Another problem I have to track down is that the voltmeter is not reading
>the 8 amp alternator voltage output.
The ammeter is switched manually. The voltmeter switches automatically
from main bus to e-bus when the main bus goes down. So, when you open
the battery master to kill the main bus, you also have to have the e-bus
alternate feed switch closed for the voltmeter to see anything.
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:25 PM 11/2/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
>Bob,
>Is there likely to be a problem using airframe ground for the PTT return
>line rather than the common point ground? I've use the B&C ground for
>all avionics and instruments. However, it would be convenient to take
>the PTT on the stick to a nearby airframe point.
If they designed their PTT control circuits like I'd design
my PTT control circuits, local ground would be fine. Give
it a try.
Bob .. .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Electrical wire ... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net>
Some time a while back there was a thread about sources of
aircraft wiring. Like the guys at OSH and SnF fly markets who
sell wire and ties and etc. for about half what ACS and Wicks
get.
Can anyone give me a link to some of those folks? ... Jim S.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical wire ... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tammy and Mike Salzman <arrow54t@yahoo.com>
--- Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net> wrote:
> Some time a while back there was a thread about sources of
> aircraft wiring.
Jim,
Try www.wiremasters.net They have a minimum total order of $150, but
no minimum on any one item. Very nice folks.
Mike Salzman
Fairfield, CA
Lancair ES
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