Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:19 AM - Audio Lo wire (William Bernard)
2. 05:47 AM - Re: Switch Availability (Tom Caruthers)
3. 07:15 AM - Attach bolts for SD20 (Ralph E. Capen)
4. 07:25 AM - Re: Audio Lo wire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:28 AM - Re: AeroElectric Connection Seminar (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:30 AM - Dual voltage electrical system (David Swartzendruber)
7. 07:56 AM - Re: Z-11 details (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:01 AM - Starter help (Fergus Kyle)
9. 09:00 AM - Re: Best place to order Honeywell MicroSwitch's? (Rob Housman)
10. 09:18 AM - Re: Starter Help (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 09:25 AM - Re: Dual voltage electrical system (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 09:41 AM - King KT-78 connector (flmike)
13. 09:43 AM - wire bundling best practices (Joa Harrison)
14. 10:00 AM - Re: Attach bolts for SD20 (James Redmon)
15. 10:06 AM - Re: Attach bolts for SD20 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 10:06 AM - Re: Best place to order Honeywell MicroSwitch's? (HCRV6@aol.com)
17. 10:10 AM - Re: Switch Availability (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 10:13 AM - Re: Future replacement for Rotax (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 10:25 AM - Switch Assembly (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
20. 10:46 AM - Re: Re: Attach bolts for SD20 (BobsV35B@aol.com)
21. 11:06 AM - RemovingDsubPins (DAVID REEL)
22. 11:35 AM - Re: RemovingDsubPins (Ralph E. Capen)
23. 11:37 AM - Re: Attach bolts for SD20 (Jim Jewell)
24. 11:56 AM - Smaller ELT antenna question (Treff, Arthur)
25. 12:06 PM - Limit Switch Schematic (Jon Finley)
26. 12:20 PM - Re: Dual voltage electrical system (David Swartzendruber)
27. 12:24 PM - Re: RemovingDsubPins (Pat Hatch)
28. 12:30 PM - Re: Dual voltage electrical system (kempthornes)
29. 01:06 PM - Re: removing sub d connectors (Dabusmith@aol.com)
30. 02:15 PM - Personal adaptation of Z-13 (Scott Diffenbaugh)
31. 02:33 PM - Rocker Switches (Tom Caruthers)
32. 02:50 PM - Really Nice Comments... (Matt Dralle)
33. 03:38 PM - Re: AeroElectric Connection Seminar (Jim Sower)
34. 03:45 PM - Need (wierd) Illuminated Push on-off switch... (N27160@aol.com)
35. 03:54 PM - Limit Switch Schematic (Eric M. Jones)
36. 04:48 PM - Re: Limit Switch Schematic (John Schroeder)
37. 07:11 PM - Re: Limit Switch Schematic (Dave Morris)
38. 08:04 PM - Magneto Relpacements (BAKEROCB@aol.com)
39. 08:22 PM - Re: Future replacement for Rotax (David Carter)
40. 08:47 PM - Re: Magneto Relpacements (Jim Sower)
41. 09:36 PM - Apollo avionics (Richard@riley.net)
42. 10:03 PM - Re: GPS antenna (Dan Checkoway)
43. 10:37 PM - Basics (Dave Morris)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
I'm getting ready to install a KX125 and connect it to a Sigtronics SPA-400 intercom.
I have a question relating what to connect the audio out lo wire on the
KX125 tray to.
The Sigtronics intercom wiring diagram shows only a single wire to the phone jacks.
The jack presumably picks up ground from the airframe.
As presently wired, the barrell of the phone jacks is wired to the aircraft ground
buss and the jacks themselves are attached into the panel without any insulating
grommets.
I suspect that this arrangement will give a ground loop and should be changed.
The question is: Changed to what?
Install insulating grommets around the phone jacks and connect the audio lo wire
to aircraft ground?
Connect the barrel of each phone jack to the audio lo wire and leave the phone
jacks uninsulated?
Connect the barrel of each phone jack to the audio lo wire and insulate the phone
jacks?
Or is this not worth worrying about. Just connect the audio lo wire to aircraft
ground and go on to other tasks in the project?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Bill
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Switch Availability |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tom Caruthers <tomcaruthers@yahoo.com>
Thanks Bob,
I have a couple of question about the HM switches.
From Carling Technologies website, they say
"H-Series: heavy duty three pole toggle switch;
slow-make, slow-break; 3 to 17 amp, 125 to 600VAC;
metal and plastic decorator toggle options; bushing
mount; UL, CSA"
I thought we were supposed to use snap-acting
switches, not "slow-make, slow-break"
The HM series of switches are 3 position. An HL251-73
would be the switch for a 2 position? ON-NONE-ON
Would this entire line of switches be acceptable for
use with landing lights, strobe lights, etc?
Thanks, Tom
--- "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L.
> Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 08:02 AM 11/20/2003 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tom
> Caruthers
> ><tomcaruthers@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Hi All,
> >
> >Does anyone know of a 3 pole, 2 position switch? I
> >would like to use a pair for mag switches. The
> third
> >circuit would be used to switch the p-leads for an
> >electronic tach.
>
> See Carling HM series switches at
>
> https://www.alliedelec.com/catalog/pf.asp?FN=648.pdf
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> -
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
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> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Attach bolts for SD20 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Folks,
Anyone out there remember what bolts they used to attach their SD-20 to their Lycoming?
It may already even be on the vacuum pad cover of my Lalonde built O360
- but it's at the airport and I'm at home.....
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Audio Lo wire |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:19 AM 11/21/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard"
><billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
>
>I'm getting ready to install a KX125 and connect it to a Sigtronics
>SPA-400 intercom. I have a question relating what to connect the audio out
>lo wire on the KX125 tray to.
>
>The Sigtronics intercom wiring diagram shows only a single wire to the
>phone jacks. The jack presumably picks up ground from the airframe.
Bad practice. All avionics grounds should come as close together
as possible at the "stack" and then fined airframe ground at the
single point ground on the firewall.
>As presently wired, the barrell of the phone jacks is wired to the
>aircraft ground buss and the jacks themselves are attached into the panel
>without any insulating grommets.
Use twisted pair or shielded wire to wire the phone and mic
jacks. An illustration of the technique is shown in document
at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9009/9009-700D.pdf
in particular page 1.11
>I suspect that this arrangement will give a ground loop and should be
>changed. The question is: Changed to what?
>
>Install insulating grommets around the phone jacks and connect the audio
>lo wire to aircraft ground?
>
>Connect the barrel of each phone jack to the audio lo wire and leave the
>phone jacks uninsulated?
>
>Connect the barrel of each phone jack to the audio lo wire and insulate
>the phone jacks?
>
>Or is this not worth worrying about. Just connect the audio lo wire to
>aircraft ground and go on to other tasks in the project?
This is discussed at length in the 'Connection chapter
on noise. Fiber washers to insulate the jacks are offered by B&C at:
http://bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?24X358218#s892
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric Connection Seminar |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:48 PM 11/20/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
>
>If anyone needs a place to stay, send me an email off-line. I am located
>at 589 Ploughman's Bend Drive, Franklin, TN. This is about 20 miles
>south of Nashville, with easy access to I-65. I will be attending, so
>can also provide transportation from my house. I have room for 3 people
>or couples in separate bedrooms and 1 or 2 more on the sofa bed and couch
>in the great room (more if you're good friends). First come, first
>served.
>
>Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
>Tennessee)
Jim, thank you for the generous offer. You may well
make the difference for some individuals deciding
whether or not they'll take on this useful activity.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Dual voltage electrical system |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
Bob,
I spoke with the guy that evaluated this N2412-12 and found out that he
never tested it with a battery on the output. If the output is
overloaded, it will go into current limit mode and max out at a little
over 14 amps, with the output voltage dropping as required. Input
current maxed out at 8.5 amps and then of course dropped off as the unit
went into current limit.
The good news is that he still has the unit he tested and is willing to
let me borrow it. I'm going to pick it up this afternoon. I'll put a
battery on the output and see if there is any leakage current, or if
you'd like to have a first hand look at it, I could drop it off at your
place.
Dave Swartzendruber
> >
> >A DC-DC converter that would work well would be the Astron N2412-12.
It
> >is a 10A device, 12A surge, that gives a nice, clean 13.8V out. This
is
> >the same unit that Cessna is using in the new singles to provide a
12V
> >accessory jack. I did a Google search and found a price of $51.
>
> Dave, do you know how this critter will behave with a battery
> across the output? Is there a need to disconnect the battery
> from the converter if it's not powered up? I've been scratching
> on a Z-figure example of how this could be done and my sense is
> that a battery disconnect relay would be needed to float the
> battery completely free when the airplane is parked.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Z-11 details |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:24 PM 11/20/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: geoffkim@pdq.net
>
>Bob,
>
>I am planning my system according to Z-11. However, I am planning to
>install electric Attitude indicator and DG on the e-bus (In addition to
>what z-11 shows). A couple of simple-minded questions.
>
>1- How do I find the current requirements (what they really draw) for the
>items? (AH, DG, TC, Nav, Comm, Lights) I know they draw less power than
>the fuse numbers indicate.
You can only get this data from the manufacturer's published
data, by contacting the manufacturer, getting a measurement
yourself on the bench or from another individual who has measured
the continuous draw on an identical accessory. I usually go to
the bench and measure it.
>2- I am thinking I may need to increase the size of the wire and the fuse
>which comes off the main battery bus through the alternate feed switch and
>to the e-bus. How do I make this determination?
If you have a battery bus fuse block, the only question is
the size of the fuse . . . you can make the wire ANY size
certain to meet the needs of e-bus loads. Make it 14AWG if you
like. However, keep in mind that the e-bus is an endurance
bus. What do you NEED to keep running while en route? Is it
your intention to do cross-country trips embedded in IMC?
If so, consider a GPS guided wing leveler and put only
the attitude gyro on the e-bus. You get good directional
data from GPS.
Think through your anticipated use of the airplane and
trim e-bus loads to absolute minimum necessary for sustained
en route activity until you get airport in sight. After you're
cleared to land, turn on the master and run anything you wish,
a battery going dead after that is immaterial to the outcome
of your flight.
>3- Why not run the wire from the main bus to the alternator field (through
>the switch) through a fuse or breaker instead of a fuselink as shown in
>the drawing?
The drawing where a fusible link is shown upstream of the alternator
field switch features a fuseblock main bus. All wires that
come off the bus should be protected AT THE BUS by some suitable
means. If you were using breakers on the main bus, the point is
mute because the alternator field breaker is adjacent to an existing
bus. In the drawings with fuseblocks, the main bus may be several feet
away from the alternator field breaker on the panel and a faulted 5A
breaker may open a 20A fuse . . . there's that much difference in their
response times (I LOVE fuses for that reason). Sooooo . . . whatever
protection you use needs to have a response time greater than the
5A field breaker . . . hence the fusible link.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
"Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Starter Help
From: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Phred-
Man, did your description of starting the R-2800 ever bring back fond
memories. The crew chief on the AF birds had this duty, but as an old
fighter pilot who was used to doing things by myself, I reserved engine
starts for the aircraft commander. I had a lot of fun playing the piano
with these switches, and I'd usually win any bet with the chief that I
could start a hot one without any belches.
Thanks for the memories! DO NOT ARCHIVE John"
Amen to that!
Ferg
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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| Subject: | Best place to order Honeywell MicroSwitch's? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
Try http://www.alliedelec.com (Allied Electronics, Inc.) and use their
search function for "switch" and manufacturer = Honeywell. Just about any
kind of switch is in stock.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Best place to order Honeywell MicroSwitch's?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
I bought mine through www.peerlesselectronics.com. Now the bad news,
nobody stocks these items. Mine had a 12 week lead time, so order extras
for spare parts. You don't want a bad master switch to ground you for 3
months.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mitch
Faatz
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Best place to order Honeywell MicroSwitch's?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mitch Faatz"
<mitchf@skybound.com>
Bob (and all),
Where is the best place to order Honeywell MicroSwitch's online? What
vendors are like McMaster-Carr in that they don't mind very small
orders, ship fast, have a good stock, etc. ???
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Help |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:37 PM 11/19/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
>
>11/19/2003
>
>Hello Electrical Types, I am seeking help in getting better engine starting
>and I'd like you to prescribe the gadget that will do it. Let me explain:
>
>I have a TCM (Teledyne Continental Motors) IO-240 B9B engine. It has a Unison
>Slick 4309 direct drive magneto on the right side with a normal running spark
>advance of 26 degrees before piston TDC (Top Dead Center). On the left side
>is a Slick 4310 magneto with normal running spark advance of 26 degrees
>before
>TDC and also retard breaker points. The retard breaker points retard the
>spark
>to near TDC for proper starting spark during cranking.
>
>The engine is started with only the left magneto ON and the high voltage,
>multiple pulse starting spark is provided through the retard breaker
>points by a
>solid state Unison SlickStart starting vibrator. The 26 degrees before TDC
>spark from the normal running points in both magnetos is grounded out by the
>SlickStart vibrator while cranking.
>
>Presently the electrical source for the starting vibrator comes from the same
>starter contactor terminal that provides electrical power to the starter
>motor. When the starter button is released electrical power to both the
>starter
>motor and the starting vibrator ends instantly. It is important in this
>engine
>to release the starter button as soon as the engine initially fires rather
>than
>try to "help it along" until it is running "better". Starter gears get chewed
>up if one keeps the starter engaged for any period of time after the engine
>initially fires.
>
>But there is a brief period of time after the engine initially fires and
>before it starts running better when the engine could benefit from
>continued high
>voltage multiple pulse retarded spark.
>
>So I want a gadget that I can wire into my starter button / starting
>contactor / starting vibrator / main bus circuitry such that it will
>activate the
>starting vibrator at the instant that the starter button is pushed and keep
>supplying electricity to the vibrator , but not to the starter motor, for
>2 or 3
>seconds after the starter button is released.
About 8 years ago, I started an article on Shower-of-Sparks magneto
ignition systems that, for a variety of reasons, didn't get finished
or published. I don't have time to polish it up now but I've assembled
the text and drawings finished to date and posted it on the 'Connection
website. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/ShowerOfSparks.pdf
I also added a figure to illustrate a stone-simple solution to your
query. By making the starter switch a progressive transfer -50
version, you can have the SOS system come alive at the mid position
of the switch and leave starter disengaged until the switch is
fully raised. After the engine starts, you can delay moving switch
to the full-down, OFF position until it's running smoothly.
The figure I added shows the Vibrator-with-Relay version. If your
vibrator is not so equipped, you can do-it-yerself with a 3 pole
relay wired to duplicate the actions of the relay built into
the vibrator.
You could make this operation "automatic" with a delay relay
but you know how I am about parts count. Replacing the starter
push-button gives the desired action with no increase in
parts count or circuit complexity.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Dual voltage electrical system |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:29 AM 11/21/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber"
><dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>I spoke with the guy that evaluated this N2412-12 and found out that he
>never tested it with a battery on the output. If the output is
>overloaded, it will go into current limit mode and max out at a little
>over 14 amps, with the output voltage dropping as required. Input
>current maxed out at 8.5 amps and then of course dropped off as the unit
>went into current limit.
>
>The good news is that he still has the unit he tested and is willing to
>let me borrow it. I'm going to pick it up this afternoon. I'll put a
>battery on the output and see if there is any leakage current, or if
>you'd like to have a first hand look at it, I could drop it off at your
>place.
>
>Dave Swartzendruber
I've seen products similar to this. Don't think it would
be useful to see this one. We DO still need to get together
for lunch!
I'd be interested in knowing how much leakage it would
place on a battery if floated across the output on a powered
down converter. I suspect we'll need to add a disconnect
relay to the converter output.
Appreciate your help tracking this down!
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | King KT-78 connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
Bob or other RKI,
Do you know the part number for the tray connector and
contact pins on the King KT78 transponder? They sort
of look like Molex KK parts, but I figured you guys
know.
A wire pulled out of one of the contacts and I need to
replace it.
Thanks,
Mike
__________________________________
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Message 13
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| Subject: | wire bundling best practices |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joa Harrison <flyasuperseven@yahoo.com>
Could someone point me to a source (preferably online) that diagrams best practices
for wire bundles. Looking for suggestions for routing and grouping things
behind the panel as well as on runs in the fuselage.
Thanks!
Joa
---------------------------------
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Attach bolts for SD20 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com>
There should be 1/4" studs for the vacuum pad on the 360. All you will
need are (4) 1/4" course thread nuts, internal tooth lock washers, and flat
washers. I'm told (by an A&P) that per standard practice, you can add up to
3 washers under the nut/lock washer combo if your studs happen to be
sticking out too far. At least that is the way mine is setup - and I it
didn't require any more than the one flat washer per stud.
James Redmon
Berkut #013 N97TX
www.berkut13.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Attach bolts for SD20
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
<recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> Folks,
>
> Anyone out there remember what bolts they used to attach their SD-20 to
their Lycoming? It may already even be on the vacuum pad cover of my
Lalonde built O360 - but it's at the airport and I'm at home.....
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Attach bolts for SD20 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:19 AM 11/21/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
><recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Folks,
>
>Anyone out there remember what bolts they used to attach their SD-20 to
>their Lycoming? It may already even be on the vacuum pad cover of my
>Lalonde built O360 - but it's at the airport and I'm at home.....
I believe they're captive studs on the vacuum pump pad
with loose nuts and washers used to mount the alternator.
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Best place to order Honeywell MicroSwitch's? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 11/20/03 5:13:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mitchf@skybound.com writes:
<< Where is the best place to order Honeywell MicroSwitch's online? What
vendors are like McMaster-Carr in that they don't mind very small orders, ship
fast, have a good stock, etc. ???
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA >>
Mitch: I've had good luck with Mouser Electronics, www.mouser.com. Hope
this helps.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Switch Availability |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:47 AM 11/21/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tom Caruthers
><tomcaruthers@yahoo.com>
>
>Thanks Bob,
>
>I have a couple of question about the HM switches.
>
> From Carling Technologies website, they say
>"H-Series: heavy duty three pole toggle switch;
>slow-make, slow-break; 3 to 17 amp, 125 to 600VAC;
>metal and plastic decorator toggle options; bushing
>mount; UL, CSA"
>
>I thought we were supposed to use snap-acting
>switches, not "slow-make, slow-break"
The G-series switches (the ones we've sold
for years) are also listed as slow-make, slow-
break. The have over-center mechanisms but they
can be "teased" if you slowly operate the toggle.
Switches described as "fast" have a heavier
over-center mechanism that absolutely prevents
teasing.
These will be fine for your application.
>The HM series of switches are 3 position. An HL251-73
>would be the switch for a 2 position? ON-NONE-ON
>
>Would this entire line of switches be acceptable for
>use with landing lights, strobe lights, etc?
Yes.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Future replacement for Rotax |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:21 AM 11/19/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
><dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
>Then perhaps I can call or e-mail John Deere today and get someone to call
>back and inform me which type they use - shunt or SCR triggered.
>
>David
Let me know what you find out.
Bob . . .
Message 19
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
Tom,
I got what I believe to be the switch you are looking for from B&C Specialty
Products (316) 283-8000 in Kansas. It was a special order (around $35.00).
Speak with Todd.
Pete Hunt
RV-6 finishing panel, temporary fit of wings Sunday
Clearwater, FL
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Attach bolts for SD20 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 11/21/03 12:02:27 PM Central Standard Time,
james@berkut13.com writes:
There should be 1/4" studs for the vacuum pad on the 360. All you will
need are (4) 1/4" course thread nuts, internal tooth lock washers, and flat
washers. I'm told (by an A&P) that per standard practice, you can add up to
3 washers under the nut/lock washer combo if your studs happen to be
sticking out too far. At least that is the way mine is setup - and I it
didn't require any more than the one flat washer per stud.
Good Afternoon Jim,
Be careful to torque them properly. Overtorqueing is one of the
possibilities that may have caused a failure of the mounting lugs on one alternator.
Also, I have heard it suggested that using the wrong gasket could also be the
culprit. Research has not yet been announced that will tell us for sure what the
problem was.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Message 21
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| Subject: | RemovingDsubPins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Having inserted one of the machined Dsub pins into it's female connector, having
never removed one of these pins, having searched the list, I'm wondering how
to do it. Does the pin just push out without ruining the grip of the connector
for a reinserted pin? The seat & release tool is mysterious to me as neither
the red nor the white end fits into the connection side of the female connector
to push with.
Secondarily, I got in this position crimping onto 24 gauge wires with the eclipse
300-015 crimp tool, but one of the wires pulled loose. The garmin transponder
installation kit contained the pin & the garmin installation manual says don't
use smaller than 24 awg wire. So, I thought I'd be OK. It seems unlikely
I could have just not crimped the pin so is there a problem to look out for
here? This was pin 15 of my vast crimping experience of 16.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: RemovingDsubPins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Is this a 37 pin connector? If so, the red tool isn't the correct tool.
For 37 pin connectors IIRC it's a pale green.......
The white side of the red tool is the correct side for removing the
pins...try it on an uninstalled pin - oh and you do it from the back
side....the same side you insert them into. Not trying to be a smart@$$,
just making sure.
Been there-done that. It's OK for the new pin too unless you twist the tool
while you're working it - the tool can catch on the grips and twist
them...did that a long time ago working on a computer project.....
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RemovingDsubPins
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> Having inserted one of the machined Dsub pins into it's female connector,
having never removed one of these pins, having searched the list, I'm
wondering how to do it. Does the pin just push out without ruining the grip
of the connector for a reinserted pin? The seat & release tool is
mysterious to me as neither the red nor the white end fits into the
connection side of the female connector to push with.
>
> Secondarily, I got in this position crimping onto 24 gauge wires with the
eclipse 300-015 crimp tool, but one of the wires pulled loose. The garmin
transponder installation kit contained the pin & the garmin installation
manual says don't use smaller than 24 awg wire. So, I thought I'd be OK.
It seems unlikely I could have just not crimped the pin so is there a
problem to look out for here? This was pin 15 of my vast crimping
experience of 16.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Attach bolts for SD20 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Ralph,
On my Bart Lalonde built 360-A1A the vacuum pump would be held in place with
four long studs the came installed along with the vacuum pump drive and a
cover. The pump or your SD-20 would then be held in place with four
NC/thread nuts ( 5/16" if memory serves) and suitable washers as per
Lycoming manual.
I hope this is this the info you need,
Jim in kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Attach bolts for SD20
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
<recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> Folks,
>
> Anyone out there remember what bolts they used to attach their SD-20 to
their Lycoming? It may already even be on the vacuum pad cover of my
Lalonde built O360 - but it's at the airport and I'm at home.....
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Smaller ELT antenna question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Treff, Arthur" <Arthur.Treff@Smartm.com>
All,
The antenna that came with my AmeriKing ELT is 18" long. ON a store bought airplane,
I had a "Rubber Ducky" antenna approx 10" high on the tail. Does anyone
know of a source to get one of those?
I spoke to a technical person at ACS, who said to use an XPNDR spike antenna.
But Transponders are a totally different freq, so I'm thinking that will not work.
Why the gyrations? I want to hide the antenna under the empennage fiberglass fairing
in my RV-8 in a horizontal position. The long straight antenna provided
will not fit. Some RV guys have placed theirs in a bow around the aft cockpit
bulkhead. This is not an option for me, as I've constructed a fastback turtledeck,
and my metal canopy skirts will shield the antenna in that position,
besides, I'm not fond of that look on the interior.
No comm antennae will be on the topside of the tailcone, so using a std comm thru
a splitter is no go as well. Perhaps I should 'roll my own' into the fiberglass
empennage fairing? Any ideas from the crowd would be greatly appreciated.
Thanx.
Art Treff
RV-8 Fastback
Asheville, NC
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Limit Switch Schematic |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Hi all,
I am installing limit switches on a device driven by a MAC servo. Does
anyone have a simple wiring schematic that I could take a peek at to be
sure that what I think I'm doing is really what I'm doing?? :-)
Thanks,
Jon Finley
N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 461 Hrs. TT
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://www.FinleyWeb.net/Q2Subaru
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dual voltage electrical system |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
Bob,
How about lunch two weeks from today? Next week is Thanksgiving and the
following week I may be gone to Lancair Certified for the first part of the
week. I'll probably be taking Friday afternoon off to work on my basement,
so I'd already be nearby for lunch.
Dave
> We DO still need to get together
> for lunch!
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: RemovingDsubPins |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Dave,
The red/white tool is inserted from the wire side of the pin. The idea is
that it compresses the little barbs that hold the pin in the connector. I
found that you really have to find the sweet spot for the release with the
tool, in addition you need to insert a small drill bit into the socket to
help push the pin back out. So, combination of red/white tool in the back
end, and the drill bit pushing, play with it for a while and it will
eventually pop right out for you.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: RemovingDsubPins
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> Having inserted one of the machined Dsub pins into it's female connector,
having never removed one of these pins, having searched the list, I'm
wondering how to do it. Does the pin just push out without ruining the grip
of the connector for a reinserted pin? The seat & release tool is
mysterious to me as neither the red nor the white end fits into the
connection side of the female connector to push with.
>
> Secondarily, I got in this position crimping onto 24 gauge wires with the
eclipse 300-015 crimp tool, but one of the wires pulled loose. The garmin
transponder installation kit contained the pin & the garmin installation
manual says don't use smaller than 24 awg wire. So, I thought I'd be OK.
It seems unlikely I could have just not crimped the pin so is there a
problem to look out for here? This was pin 15 of my vast crimping
experience of 16.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dual voltage electrical system |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
But where? Senor Sanchez's?
hal
do not archive
At 02:18 PM 11/21/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber"
><dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>How about lunch two weeks from today? Next week is Thanksgiving and the
>following week I may be gone to Lancair Certified for the first part of the
>week. I'll probably be taking Friday afternoon off to work on my basement,
>so I'd already be nearby for lunch.
>
>Dave
>
> > We DO still need to get together
> > for lunch!
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: removing sub d connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dabusmith@aol.com
>but one of the wires pulled loose
I have stripped the wire back double the normal amount. The exposed wire is
doubled back and inserted in the connector. It is double sized and crimps
better. I don't know if it is the best way but it seems to work fine. No failures.
Dave
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Personal adaptation of Z-13 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff@foothill.net>
After a couple months of reading Bob's book, researching the archives, and
posting lots of questions, I would like to believe I finally have a pretty
good understanding of how Z-13 works. (I am a slow learner & may be proven
wrong shortly, but I am willing to take a chance). In addition, I am
convinced Z-13 is a tried and proven system that would indeed meet my needs.
Before I finalize things and start ordering parts, I would like to bounce a
personal adaptation of Z-13 off of Bob and fellow system designers. I am
not suggesting Z-13 be changed! Please look at my idea with an open mind
then let me know why it is a bad idea. Thank you!
My setup: RV7A, with firewall mounted 16AH battery, battery contactor,
&
starter contactor; Dual LASAR w/dual mag backup; All electric 6-pack;
Full IFR stack ACS 2002 engine monitor; Trutrak autopilot;
Total load with everything on would be around 50A. Endurance items would be
limited to 8A. (Handheld GPS & transceiver.)
MY ADAPTATION
1) Eliminate the main bus & E bus, & tie everything into the battery bus.
2) Relocate the main alt B lead to the battery side of the contactor.
3) Switch those items that do not come with built in switches or are not
normally switched. In my case this would include: ILS indicator; encoder;
LASAR; artificial horizon; DG; & turn coordinator.
4) Layout the switches in color coded groups all in one row in a subpanel
below the main panel. Highest priority (endurance) switches would start at
the left end & would be red. The next group could be green for normally on
but non-essential, followed by white for normally off, such as lights. Etc,
etc.
ADVANTAGES
Fewer busses (fuse panels) to deal with
Avoids loss of partial panel due to battery contactor failure --battery
contactor would serve only during starting & would be shut off after start
in case of a stuck starter contactor, and to reduce system draw by about 1A.
Provides greater flexibility in backup alternator mode by being able to
swap an endurance item for a main bus item or use a main bus item
intermittently without losing 1A to the contactor. For example, upon main
alt failure, I could off everything but the endurance items, switch on the
SD-8 & monitor the ACS 2002 amp & volt meters to confirm all is well. I
could then trade off devices if desired, like turn off the transponder and
turn on the autopilot, etc., while monitoring voltage.
DISADVANTAGES
More time to off non-essentials than with one master switch.
Battery could be drained if a single device is left on by mistake after
shutdown. This would force me to always turn off each device at shutdown as
recommended, instead of relying on the master switch. (Would have the side
benefit of making sure avionics switch contacts get wiped clean by use)
Ok, that's it in a nutshell. Let er rip! Thank you.
Scott Diffenbaugh
diff@foothill.net
Message 31
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Tom Caruthers <tomcaruthers@yahoo.com>
Hi Bob,
Do you know where a person can get 2 and 3 position
rocker switches? I was looking for the kind with an
LED built in to use as a fuse blown indicator.
Thanks, Tom
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Really Nice Comments... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
We're nearing the end of this year's List Fund Raiser and I wanted to share
some of the really nice comments members have been making about the Lists
and what the Lists mean to them. Please take a moment to read over some of
the thought's members have shared with me in the last couple of weeks
regarding the Lists. Its pretty awesome.
If you haven't taken a moment to show your support for the operation and
upgrade of these services, won't you do so now? These Lists are operated
solely through the $20 or $30 contribution you make each year. Without
your yearly support, the Lists may cease to exist in the future. It takes
your resources to keep these systems up. Remember, there's no advertising
budget to keep things afloat. I think pretty much everyone appreciates the
fact that I don't have any pop-ads or flashing banners of any kind on the
List. Your support assures it will stay that way.
Please make your contribution today and, in one small, way fight off the
every increasing commercialism creep that is taking over the Internet!! :-)
The SSL Secure web site for making your List Contribution can be found here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you to everyone that has already showed their support for the List!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
======== Awesome Comments From Members Regarding The Lists =========
Absolutely essential information for any homebuilder.
- Owen B.
I get so much information from the List...
- Paul L.
[The List has] bailed me out more than once.
- Hap S.
Nothing is free, even though there is no price tag on it. I donate
what I can afford. I hope this little bit helps offset expenses.
- John H.
I consider this list the most important tool in my possession
for building an aircraft!
- Don G.
I have received many helpful tips by checking the List daily.
- Ronald M.
The advice and information that I have received from the List has
saved me many hours of head-scratching and at least five thousand
dollars...
-Kevin H.
Your List has been waaay COOL for years.
- Charles R.
My favorite subscription and a bargain too.
- Hal K.
Many thanks for the constant upgrades and all.
- Dennis N.
...you've given us a great resource!
- John V.
I appreciate your keeping this List on such an even level...
- Robert N.
A few weeks ago I was looking to buy a metal brake/shear. One of your
Listers told me how to save $130 off the $500 price and provided some
other excellent suggestions on how to use it.
- Terrence W.
...excellent service.
- Hans-Peter R.
This List has saved me lots of time and improved my project in many ways.
- Jordan G.
Talking with others is a real confidence builder.
- Hap S.
Thx sooooo much for this resource from a first time builder!!
- Randy M.
Recently discovered [your] really a great site!
- Lieven B.
Great List!
- Paul P.
...very valuable tool.
- Chris D.
Read the digest every morning...
- Ken B.
Your Lists continue to educate, amuse, sometimes annoy, and mostly
inspire me.
- Chris R.
...excellent source if information.
- Mike R.
Your Lists have been most helpful to my RV-9A.
- Dean V.
You're make a significant contribution to us getting our aircraft in
the air more safely and quickly through the knowledge and experience of
others.
- Charles L.
[The List] has helped me avoid some costly mistakes!
-Ronald M.
Great service!
- David P.
...a very informative list.
- Derek L.
I've been checking the RV List for the past 7 years and it has been
very helpful.
- Dann P.
I can't imagine NOT having the RV list as a resource while
building my RV-7!
- Dwight F.
Great list. I lurk a lot and get great knowledge from Bob et al.
- Mark B.
I find something every day on the RV lis that helps me in my RV-4 project.
- Ron P.
The Kolb List has helped me in many ways. Has gotten me in
contact with and made many new friends and probably a few
enemies too...
- John H.
Those who do not contribute are finks!
- Hal K.
When I run into a problem I search the Lists and can get several solutions.
- Paul L.
The build process would be twice as difficult without it.
- Hap S.
Great service.
- F.R. M.
...it's a pleasure to be part of this generous community of builder/pilots.
- Ron P.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric Connection Seminar |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net>
I'm not nearly as close as Jim - I live in Crossville a little over 100 mi
east. I'll be commuting to the seminar and could put several people up.
--
Jim Sower
Crossville, TN; Chapter 5
Long-EZ N83RT, Velocity N4095T
j1j2h3@juno.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
>
> If anyone needs a place to stay, send me an email off-line. I am located
> at 589 Ploughman's Bend Drive, Franklin, TN. This is about 20 miles
> south of Nashville, with easy access to I-65. I will be attending, so
> can also provide transportation from my house. I have room for 3 people
> or couples in separate bedrooms and 1 or 2 more on the sofa bed and couch
> in the great room (more if you're good friends). First come, first
> served.
>
> Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
> Tennessee)
>
> Do not archive
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> >Anyone wanting to attend a AeroElectric Connection Wiring Seminar near
> >Nashville,TN please goto:
> >http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars/Nashville.html and register.
>
> _
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Need (wierd) Illuminated Push on-off switch... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N27160@aol.com
I need a source for an industrial application, switch....
Push On=Push-Off....
BUT.... It illuminates when in the OFF position and non illuminated when in
the ON position...
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Limit Switch Schematic |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>From: Jon Finley (jon@finleyweb.net)
>I am installing limit switches on a device driven by a MAC servo. Does
>anyone have a simple wiring schematic that I could take a peek at to be
>sure that what I think I'm doing is really what I'm doing?? :-)
Jon,
See my schematic inside www.periheliondesign.com/mac8trim.zip. There are
limit switches inside the MAC servo. Maybe you could just use those if
you're clever.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Limit Switch Schematic |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
MAC Servos have their own built-in limit switches. They shut off when they
reach the full extend and full retract position of the jackscrew. Look at
the diagrams in their instruction sheets.
Hope this helps.
John
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Limit Switch Schematic |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
Jon, it depends on what you want to do and how you are driving the servo.
As others have mentioned, the MAC/RAC servos have built-in limit switches
that prevent over-travel at each end. But if you need to limit the travel
further, you can do it 2 different ways.
1. In my aileron reflexer design, I needed to add an additional limit only
on one end of the travel (see
http://www.davemorris.com/Photos/Dragonfly/ReflexorLimitSwitchOverview.jpg).
I did it by adding the switch into the joystick portion of the
circuit. (See http://www.davemorris.com/Dave/ReflexerSchematic.pdf) You
can do this if the relays are close to the servo.
2. The other way of doing it is to mimic what the servo has within its
case, which is a limit switch with a bypass diode to allow the switch to be
overridden when you are wanting to reverse the motor.
Contact me off-list if you need further help.
Dave Morris
Dragonfly N55UP under construction
At 02:05 PM 11/21/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
>
>Hi all,
>
>I am installing limit switches on a device driven by a MAC servo. Does
>anyone have a simple wiring schematic that I could take a peek at to be
>sure that what I think I'm doing is really what I'm doing?? :-)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jon Finley
>N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 461 Hrs. TT
>Apple Valley, Minnesota
>http://www.FinleyWeb.net/Q2Subaru
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Magneto Relpacements |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
11/21/2003
Hello Jim Sower, I am sorry that I cannot cut and paste your posting to the
list regarding alternative replacements for magnetos. It would make for a more
effective response, but somebody turned a significant portion of the Digest
blue making it impossible to cut and paste.
I agree that magneto ignition comes from farm tractors back in the 1930's and
earlier and that better stuff should be available. And it almost is. But not
to the point that it makes sense yet to order your engine without magnetos in
order to put in two of the none certified versions that you mentioned.
Probably makes more sense to do what Bob Nuckolls suggests, which is to order your
engine with magnetos, replace one of the magnetos with some form of electronic
ignition, and when the magneto in use wears out, use the one set aside until it
wears out. Then go full dual electronic ignition.
But electronic ignition is a long ways from being just "pull out the magneto,
stick in the electronic unit (for a mere $800) and fly on your merry way". To
prove the accuracy of that statement just do an aeroelectric list search on
the subjects of "electronic ignition", "dual electrical systems" (needed by
full dual electronic ignitions), "lightspeed", and maybe a few other terms that
don't come right to mind right now. You will discover that "the devil is in the
details" and that a lot of people are doing a lot of struggling with the
subject of electronic ignitions.
And aside from that there are local builders here that have first hand
exposure to such systems and they can sit you down and give you first hand details
on their experiences (problems) and also what they have learned from others.
I guess if I had to characterize electronic ignition right now I'd have to
say "We ain't quite there yet."
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - 11/17/03
PS: I am not an antedeluvian fuddy duddy -- if TCM had been just a bit more
optimistic on the availability timing estimate I would have had FADEC on my
engine.
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Future replacement for Rotax |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Was gone most of day. Had msg on ans mach when returned 8:30pm tonight.
Here's the info my local John Deere dealer's Service Manager passed on to me
as what the factory expert told him in response to his request that they
tell how the regulators work for the 20, 35, 55, & 85 PM Alternators -(he
took a copy of the pdg doc/table I sent to you and used that in his query to
Deere):
"The alternators are 3 phase and use diodes mounted on a plate.
"The regulator(s) [are/use?] "pass transisor[s?]. For every 10 degree C
rise in temp, [they?] lose 10% efficiency until reach 120 deg C - which
destroys alternator. (?)"
"The regulators are neither "shunt" type nor "bridge rectifier" type."
That's all somewhat cryptic/abbreviated to me - it was, after all, an
answering machine msg.
- I'll go see him Monday and get copies of full text of what they sent
him. If what I've passed on here gives you some clue as to other questions
I should ask, let me know and I'll "carry the mail" to him Monday.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Future replacement for Rotax
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 09:21 AM 11/19/2003 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
> ><dcarter@datarecall.net>
> >
> >Then perhaps I can call or e-mail John Deere today and get someone to
call
> >back and inform me which type they use - shunt or SCR triggered.
> >
> >David
>
> Let me know what you find out.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Magneto Relpacements |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net>
<... order your engine with magnetos, replace one of the magnetos with some form
of
electronic
ignition, and when the magneto in use wears out, use the one set aside ...>
That's exactly what I did. My engine came at me with mags, I replaced one, the
other
as a spare.
<... a long ways from being just "pull out the magneto, stick in the electronic
unit
(for a mere $800) and fly on your merry way" ...>
How long a way? I did exactly that. Most of the folks I know with EI did exactly
that. Worked just fine for me on my EZ. Fixin' to do it again on the Velocity.
<... a lot of people are doing a lot of struggling with the subject of electronic
ignitions ...>
A lot of people are doing a lot of struggling with mags too. Difference is, the
guys
struggling with EI are moving ahead and improving things. The guys struggling
with
mags can't even break even. They've made the decision to stay static, pissing
in the
wind, in the name of preferring the devil they know. I wish them well. I have
to go
my own way.
Works fine for me .... Jim S.
<... PS: I am not an antedeluvian fuddy duddy ...>
Whatever floats your boat .... :o)
BAKEROCB@aol.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
>
> Probably makes more sense to do what Bob Nuckolls suggests, which is to order
your
> engine with magnetos, replace one of the magnetos with some form of electronic
> ignition, and when the magneto in use wears out, use the one set aside until
it
> wears out. Then go full dual electronic ignition.
>
> But electronic ignition is a long ways from being just "pull out the magneto,
> stick in the electronic unit (for a mere $800) and fly on your merry way". To
> prove the accuracy of that statement just do an aeroelectric list search on
> the subjects of "electronic ignition", "dual electrical systems" (needed by
> full dual electronic ignitions), "lightspeed", and maybe a few other terms that
> don't come right to mind right now. You will discover that "the devil is in the
> details" and that a lot of people are doing a lot of struggling with the
> subject of electronic ignitions.
>
> PS: I am not an antedeluvian fuddy duddy -- if TCM had been just a bit more
> optimistic on the availability timing estimate I would have had FADEC on my
> engine.
Message 41
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard@Riley.net
Due to the sale of UPSAT to Garmin, I'm loosing my OEM account in a couple
of weeks. If anyone wants any of their products, my normal deal stands
till then, my cost plus 5%, about 25% off list price.
Message 42
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I have seen pictures of the GPS antenna mount on the front of the
> firewall, but can't recall which web site they were on. Can someone
> with a better memory help me out here? Since I've seen no reports of
> difficulties with that location, I think I'll try it.
http://www.rvproject.com/20030824.html
http://www.rvproject.com/20030831.html
Those are a few notes on how I did mine. If I were doing it again I'd shift
the antenna forward about 3/4" or so...to make sure it doesn't get shadowed
by the cowl hinge (which I stupidly didn't take into account originally). I
haven't flown yet, and it seems to work...but we'll see. Anyway, caveat
websurfer.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 43
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
Bob,
I'm reading and reading and studying and trying to absorb everything.
I keep coming back to the very basic concepts you described in chapter
17. It seems like Mr. Gomez' problems were
a) the fact that he did not diagnose the failure of the alternator and pull
it off the bus, and
b) by switching off the Master, he was forced to kill essential things such
as lighting
What if we did away with the concept of a "Master" switch and just allowed
each device to have its own switch, as it probably already does
anyway? Starting with Figure 17-2, we could eliminate the battery
contactor altogether, hook the starter contactor to the battery, have a
single bus with everything on it, and be able to disconnect the alternator
in the event of an overvoltage condition.
Then, with an ammeter to monitor total current consumption, in the event of
an alternator failure, we pull it offline, then start shutting down
anything not needed at the time, take a look at the total current being
consumed, divide it into the amp-hour rating of the battery, and know how
long we can keep flying.
One reason I don't like the idea of an essential bus (or endurance bus) is
that I keep finding myself determining that virtually everything in my
small airplane is "essential", or may be so at some point. If I have a
pitch trim using a servo, and I keep trying to adjust trim and nothing
happens because I forgot that it's not on the e-bus and I've gotta flip the
E-feed switch before I can operate the trim, then that's just another thing
to have to remember.
In a car, you have a key switch that turns everything on. But you also
have a separate light switch, radio switch, window switches, lock switches,
heater switch, etc. etc., so what does that key switch really do except act
as another single point of failure and also control the ignition? Isn't
the small experimental aircraft in much the same situation? Couldn't we
make the whole thing even simpler and thus even more fault-tolerant?
Dave Morris
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