Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:30 AM - annunciator drawings & photos (Paul A. Franz, P.E.)
2. 05:57 AM - Re: annunciator drawings & photos (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
3. 06:05 AM - Re: circuit breakers (Glen Matejcek)
4. 06:07 AM - Re: Re: Re: Compass Advice (Eric M. Jones)
5. 06:31 AM - Re: annunciator drawings & photos (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
6. 06:31 AM - Re: Bob, wiring of headphone jacks for Flightcom 403D (Nebr RV-8)
7. 06:41 AM - Re: Electric Carb heat? (Eric M. Jones)
8. 07:20 AM - Re: annunciator drawings & photos (Dave Morris)
9. 07:28 AM - Re: Electric Carb heat? (Paul Wilson)
10. 07:47 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 11/30/03 (Ted Lemen)
11. 08:38 AM - Re: Electric Carb heat? (Rob Housman)
12. 08:53 AM - Re: trigger PTT. (Dave Morris)
13. 09:15 AM - Re: trigger PTT. (Neil Clayton)
14. 09:15 AM - Snap noise when strobes fire (Greg Milner)
15. 09:16 AM - Re: annunciator drawings & photos (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
16. 09:34 AM - Re: Electric Carb heat? (Matt Prather)
17. 09:49 AM - Re: Electric Carb heat? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 09:54 AM - Re: Re: Electric Carb heat? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 10:00 AM - Re: Electric Carb heat? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 10:05 AM - Re: Re: Re: Re: Compass Advice (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 10:12 AM - Re: Electric Carb heat? (william mills)
22. 10:59 AM - Re: Re: Electric Carb heat? (Mark Steitle)
23. 11:32 AM - Battery Drain ? for Bob (ALWAYSPDG@aol.com)
24. 11:52 AM - Re: annunciator drawings & photos (Paul A. Franz, P.E.)
25. 12:03 PM - Re: trigger PTT. (Dave Morris)
26. 12:25 PM - (Jim Oke)
27. 12:30 PM - RG Battery Pack Purchase (Jim Oke)
28. 12:52 PM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
29. 12:56 PM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (ALWAYSPDG@aol.com)
30. 01:50 PM - Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase ()
31. 02:20 PM - Re: Dual voltage electrical system (David Swartzendruber)
32. 02:57 PM - Re: annunciator drawings & photos (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
33. 03:02 PM - Re: annunciator drawings & photos (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
34. 03:37 PM - Re: Re: Compass Advice (John Schroeder)
35. 04:04 PM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
36. 04:13 PM - Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
37. 06:20 PM - Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase (Jim Corner)
38. 06:56 PM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (ALWAYSPDG@aol.com)
39. 07:05 PM - Pitch Trim Motor Slow-down (J. Oberst)
40. 07:54 PM - Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase (Dave Morris)
41. 08:17 PM - Re: Pitch Trim Motor Slow-down (Chuck Borne)
42. 08:50 PM - Re: Re: Compass Advice (Dave Morris)
43. 11:31 PM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | annunciator drawings & photos |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul@eucleides.com>
I have posted Mark Phillips' annunciator drawings & photos on a web
server for him so they can be easily gotten by all. The filename portion
of this URL is case sensitive so either click it or copy and paste it to
your browser's window.
<http://eucleides.com/AnnunciatorRear.zip>
The contents of the zip file created by Mark are:
Archive: AnnunciatorRear.zip
Length Date Time Name
-------- ---- ---- ----
161000 09-17-03 14:53 (6)a Annunciator & LVWM.dwg
163816 11-28-03 07:51 (6)b Annunciator & LVWM.dwg
176050 07-14-03 09:17 AnnunciatorFront.jpg
178493 07-14-03 09:07 AnnunciatorRear.jpg
-------- -------
679359 4 files
Paul Franz
--
PAF Consulting Engineers | 427 - 140th Ave NE
(425)641-8202 voice | Bellevue, WA 98005
(425)641-1773 fax | <mailto:paul@eucleides.com>
GnuPG Public Key - <http://eucleides.com/pgpkey.asc>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: annunciator drawings & photos |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
In a message dated 12/1/2003 8:31:12 AM Eastern Standard Time,
paul@eucleides.com writes:
I have posted Mark Phillips' annunciator drawings & photos on a web
server for him so they can be easily gotten by all.
Paul, This is a slick design but I object to the wire count (even though the
wires could be very small gauge). I have envisioned but not yet built a
sending unit that is simply a linear pot driven by a lever suspended by a couple
of
small coil springs. --Only two wires required to drive an LED display with a
V/D converter.
John P. Marzluf
Columbus, Ohio
Kitfox Outback (out back in the garage)
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: circuit breakers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi Bob-
Sorry it's taken so long to get back to you, but I've been gone a lot.
To clarify my situation, I'm building an all electric RV-8 w/ aft batteries
and SD-8. Natch, the fuse blocks will be amidships. My circuitry will be
mostly fused but with a small number of cb's, notably tied into alt OV
protection. If the automotive ATC style CB's are of appropriate
reliability they would significantly reduce the complexity and increase the
neatness of the installation.
Thanks to the folks that have already responded; all input is welcomed!
Glen Matejcek
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Re: Re: Compass Advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>In a message dated 11/30/03 7:38:13 PM Central Standard Time,
>emjones@charter.net writes:
>Compact and discreet, this "active antenna" houses a complete GPS receiver
>providing position, altitude, speed, course, satellite orbit information
and
>reception signal levels at an update rate of 1 second.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>I'll bet the "active antenna + receiver" costs more than
>a GPS-310 + adapter cable. Further, the active antenna
>can't be removed from the airplane and used independently
>on internal batteries and back-lighted display.
>I'll suggest the GPS310 is better value.
> Bob . . .
Yeh but.....The NON-active GPS antennas can tell the direction and elevation
of all satellites. BUT the orientation of the airplane (such as upside down)
can't be determined. That's why this antenna must be used---because it knows
which way it's pointed in addition to where the satellites are.
I think were on the edge of an aircraft instrument revolution. But maybe I'm
out of my field here.........
>> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>>Anybody know why it is not available in North America?
Bob---They don't want ME to have one so the rest of you have to be punished
too.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: annunciator drawings & photos |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy A-list-
As seen in a recent post (see below), Paul Franz has graciously stored the
drawings and photos that some of y'all requested about the annunciator I built.
Here's the link:
<A HREF="http://eucleides.com/AnnunciatorRear.zip">http://eucleides.com/AnnunciatorRear.zip
The drawings were generated with AutoCAD R14. The one labeled 6a is the
circuit and associated hardware while 6b shows the way the components are laid
out
on the board, and a couple of masks for the assembly. The scale is wrong on
the masks, but if anyone really wants to try one of these, I have a more
accurate one that I could send, if interested.
As a brief historical note, I was originally going to make one of these using
incandescents with a push-to-test function, which added quite a bit of
complexity. After some discussions at Bob's seminar this past February and here
on
the A-list, I opted to try the LED modules, which Bob pointed out rarely fail
and typically provide sufficient verification of proper operation at
power-up/engine start time. As configured, only the fuel low modules don't normally
come on at start (unless ya need gas!), but they back up other gauges, so PTT
is not critical. Note that the LVWM is separate from the main board as it
supplies its own circuit requirements.
If anyone sees any errors or has questions or suggestions for improvement,
please let me know! E-mail direct to: fiveonepw@aol.com
Mark
In a message dated 12/1/03 7:31:06 AM Central Standard Time,
paul@eucleides.com writes:
> I have posted Mark Phillips' annunciator drawings &photos on a web
> server for him so they can be easily gotten by all. The filename portion
> of this URL is case sensitive so either click it or copy and paste it to
> your browser's window.
>
> <http://eucleides.com/AnnunciatorRear.zip>
>
> The contents of the zip file created by Mark are:
>
> Archive: AnnunciatorRear.zip
> Length Date Time Name
> -------- ---- ---- ----
> 161000 09-17-03 14:53 (6)a Annunciator &LVWM.dwg
> 163816 11-28-03 07:51 (6)b Annunciator &LVWM.dwg
> 176050 07-14-03 09:17 AnnunciatorFront.jpg
> 178493 07-14-03 09:07 AnnunciatorRear.jpg
> -------- -------
> 679359 4 files
>
> Paul Franz
Message 6
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| Subject: | Bob, wiring of headphone jacks for Flightcom 403D |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Nebr RV-8" <nebrrv8@earthlink.net>
Jim Muegge
Bob,
Quick question,
I am installing a Flightcom 403D in my RV-8 and am wiring the headphone
jacks. Flightcom shows the jack grounded at the jack. Do I need to run
shielded cable for the audio out to the jack? If so which end do I
terminate the shield? Also going to install a small jack for audio in
for a CD player. Does this jack also need it's ground isolated?
Thanks for the help. You do a great job.
Jim Muegge
RV-8 wiring it up
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Carb heat? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>> I am trying to design an electric full time carb heat system for my
>> Bing carb using Nichrome wire.
> your heater needs to good for about 7700 watts.
> If you have a 2 cycle engine, the volume of air doubles
> and so does the necessary power.
I lost $5K on palladium futures in that Pons and Fleischman thing, so I know
how tricky thermodynamics can be---but the reasonableness test suggests that
putting 10.32 horsepower into heating a pot-metal carburetor would not only
melt the ice, but maybe the carburetor too. I think the calculations err in
the transfer efficiency. A venturi is not a very good refrigerator.
The engineer would say---Hey! adding ANY heat to the carb will improve it's
icing performance (and reduce it's fuel economy), and there's certainly SOME
limit where even the best technique will not be enough. So what's the worry?
My own approach would be with PTC heaters (Google search "PTC heater"). They
are automatic and the current through them can tell you exactly what's
happening. Automobiles use zillions of them to defrost rear view mirrors.
You specify these to keep the heat at --let's say-- above 10 degrees C. You
won't ever feel them warm up but there won't be any ice!
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: annunciator drawings & photos |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
I found out Advanced Graphics Technologies (
http://www.aircraftsimulators.com/F16caution.html ) will fabricate a custom
annunciator panel for you from laser-cut acrylic. They make elaborate
flight simulator panels for F-16s, FA-18s, B-777s, and many other
aircraft. This is a pretty slick way to get a professional looking
back-lit switch panel or annunciator panel that looks a whole lot better
than press-on lettering. (Or you can just go ahead and equip your
homebuilt with a complete F-16 cockpit!)
Dave Morris
At 05:29 AM 12/1/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul A. Franz, P.E."
><paul@eucleides.com>
>
>I have posted Mark Phillips' annunciator drawings & photos on a web
>server for him so they can be easily gotten by all. The filename portion
>of this URL is case sensitive so either click it or copy and paste it to
>your browser's window.
>
><http://eucleides.com/AnnunciatorRear.zip>
>
>The contents of the zip file created by Mark are:
>
>Archive: AnnunciatorRear.zip
> Length Date Time Name
> -------- ---- ---- ----
> 161000 09-17-03 14:53 (6)a Annunciator & LVWM.dwg
> 163816 11-28-03 07:51 (6)b Annunciator & LVWM.dwg
> 176050 07-14-03 09:17 AnnunciatorFront.jpg
> 178493 07-14-03 09:07 AnnunciatorRear.jpg
> -------- -------
> 679359 4 files
>
>Paul Franz
>
>--
> PAF Consulting Engineers | 427 - 140th Ave NE
> (425)641-8202 voice | Bellevue, WA 98005
> (425)641-1773 fax | <mailto:paul@eucleides.com>
> GnuPG Public Key - <http://eucleides.com/pgpkey.asc>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Carb heat? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Paul Wilson <pwilson@climber.org>
Another thought is to use hot fluid at the air intake to heat the air. For an air
cooled engine use hot oil and for a water cooled engine use the coolant. The
one I saw was on a Rotax and consisted of and aluminum plate (about ~1/2" thick)
mated to the carb inlet with coolant holes drilled so the water flowed in
a square pattern to heat the plate. The air is heated by the plate. The hole
in the plate was the same as the carb inlet. The guy hat it instrumented and
said it heated the air just fine. The guy has a manual valve control for the
coolant flow.
Paul
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 11/30/03 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ted Lemen" <tedlem@ecentral.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "AeroElectric-List Digest Server"
<aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 11/30/03
> *
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 25
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:53:42 PM PST US
> From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: trigger PTT.
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
<sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> Bob:
> I have a couple of stick grips which I can carve to hold whatever
> PTT switch I want. I'd like a trigger type switch with a weak spring
> positioned under my index finger. I could build something out of a
> plunger+spring+microswitch, I guess, but are you aware of any off the
> shelf trigger style momentary contact switches? I haven't been able to
> find any.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
> RV-6A
>
>
> Whats wrong with a simple momentary pushbutton. I use one that I got from
radio shack for probably less than $1.00 If you are referring to a clicker
switch, I don't think you need one.
Ted Lemen>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Electric Carb heat? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
It does not change your conclusion but the specific heat of air at any
combination of temperature and pressure likely to be encountered in an
airplane is 0.24 cal/gm deg C vs. specific heat of water under similar
conditions of 1.0.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert L.
Nuckolls, III
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electric Carb heat?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> I am trying to design an electric full time carb heat system for my
> Bing carb using Nichrome wire. I anticiapte that I would need to heat
> the carb body up about 50F over amibent. I am still experimenting with
> carb temps without heat, but theory claims it is possible to experinece
> up to 80F temp loss due to vaporization of the fuel. I know little to
> nothing about what I need to know, I just have a basic idea. I thought
> to wrap the wire around the bing carb body to keep it warm at all times
> without heating the intake air. How can I figure out: 1. What diameter
> of wire to use, 2. what length of wire to use, 3. how to calculate the
> wire temp given the use of a standard 12V system (13.5?) and, 4. can I
> use some sort of variable input to regulate the heat output so to keep
> the carbs at a constant temp throughout the extremes in OAT?
this has been considered before . . . it was about 10 years ago
that I had some discussions with some builders on Compuserve's
avsig forum about electric carb heat.
Problem is that you've got a LOT of cold air coming into the
carb to run the engine. Let's assume a 100 cu" engine running
5000 rpm. If it's a 4-cycle, it sucks in about 100 cu" of cold
air every two revolutions or 2500 x 100 cu"/minute. Density of
air at sea level is about 1/800th that of water. Water and air
have the same specific heat so you're needing to put the same
temperature rise on 313 cu" of water/minute as 250,000 cu"
of air/minute. To overcome additional cooling due to vaporization
of fuel, I think I've heard a number of 40 degrees F tossed
around. Okay cu" of water weighs .036 lb so 313 cu" weighs
about 11 pounds. 40 degrees F rise on 11 pounds of water
takes 440 BTU of heat/minute. 440 BTU per minute works out to
26400 BTU per hour. 1 watt is 3.4 BTU per hour. So 26,400/3.4
suggests your heater needs to good for about 7700 watts.
If you have a 2 cycle engine, the volume of air doubles
and so does the necessary power.
These numbers seem in line with the kind of heat one might
expect off a heater muff of an 80 hp piston engine . . .
about 7 hair driers worth. Yub, one hair drier at 1000W
is pretty whimpy heat for a cold cabin . . . been there,
tried that. 7,000 watts doesn't seem unreasonable.
That's about 550 amps of your 14 volt system. That's the
sledge hammer approach to carb heat . . . warm ALL the
incoming air such that carb ice is not only unable to
form but can be shed after substantial ice has already
formed. It's worked well on lots of airplanes since
the early 1940's
If one could concentrate the heat at places were ice
collects, there might be a more efficient way to use
less energy . . . but with nothing BETTER to do with
gobs of waste heat going out the exhaust stacks, the
heater muff was hard to beat for economical to operate
and easy to fabricate and maintain.
Eric, Dave, did I do that analysis right? In any case,
I think you're going to find that it takes a whole
lot more electric heat that you have available to do
an adequate job of de-icing a carburetor.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: trigger PTT. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
Pick up a flight sim joystick for about $30. Even if you don't use the
whole grip, you can remove the trigger and the microswitch and the hinge
mechanism that hooks the two together.
Dave Morris
At 09:53 PM 11/30/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
><sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
>Bob:
> I have a couple of stick grips which I can carve to hold whatever
>PTT switch I want. I'd like a trigger type switch with a weak spring
>positioned under my index finger. I could build something out of a
>plunger+spring+microswitch, I guess, but are you aware of any off the
>shelf trigger style momentary contact switches? I haven't been able to
>find any.
>
>Thanks,
>
>--
>Tom Sargent
>RV-6A
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: trigger PTT. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
Yeah...I went that route. I pulled the stick apart intending to liberate
the switches, but found they were very small and I didn't want to take the
risk of overloading them with the kinds of power I was planning to stick
across them. The switches in the commercial sticks expect small signal-type
mAmp currents, not the larger control currents we would use when switching
trim motors, say.
But....I used the stick shape as a model to carve custom sticks from a
mahogany block. The blocks turned out nicely, but I still needed micro
switches to install in my home grown stick. Even the top hat switch, when
bought separately, runs $40+, without the other switches, plus I still had
the problem of installing them in wood.
So after much trying, I finally bit the bullet and bought the Infinity
stick. Around $170 list, and not as sexy looking as my polished mahogany
beauties, but I got everything I wanted. Could have saved a lot of hassle too.
Neil
At 11:51 AM 12/1/03, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
>
>Pick up a flight sim joystick for about $30. Even if you don't use the
>whole grip, you can remove the trigger and the microswitch and the hinge
>mechanism that hooks the two together.
>
>Dave Morris
>
>
>At 09:53 PM 11/30/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
> ><sarg314@earthlink.net>
> >
> >Bob:
> > I have a couple of stick grips which I can carve to hold whatever
> >PTT switch I want. I'd like a trigger type switch with a weak spring
> >positioned under my index finger. I could build something out of a
> >plunger+spring+microswitch, I guess, but are you aware of any off the
> >shelf trigger style momentary contact switches? I haven't been able to
> >find any.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >--
> >Tom Sargent
> >RV-6A
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Snap noise when strobes fire |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
I have wing tip strobes on my RV-4 and my Whelan power supply is in rear baggage
compartment. Normally have a whooping sound and was instructed to try separate
battery at the strobe power supply which eliminates the whooping sound. Now
there is a loud snap in the headset when the strobes fire. Any clues?
Greg Milner
RV-4 79KM
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: annunciator drawings & photos |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 12/1/03 7:58:26 AM Central Standard Time, KITFOXZ@aol.com
writes:
> This is a slick design but I object to the wire count (even though the
> wires could be very small gauge). I have envisioned but not yet built a
> sending unit that is simply a linear pot driven by a lever suspended by a
> couple of
> small coil springs. --Only two wires required to drive an LED display with
> a
> V/D converter.
Hi John! Saw your A-list post and thought I'd say howdy & request some tech
help!
(Yeah, I object to the wire count too, but they're all discreet signals- I'm
just too unsophisticated to handle electronical stuff, dontchaknow!!!!)
Since you have the drawing, could I beg ya to take a look at the way I have
the Altronix 6062 timers connected? (top of drawing 6a) I could swear this is
the same as the sample you sent me way back when. I am at work right now so
can't check them for exactly how they currently function, but they seem to
behave opposite the intended way. I pulled up the data sheet on the timers and
it seems I need to cut a jumper on the board to disable the start-up time (or
something- sheet is at home too!) Does anything particularly "wrong" jump out
at you?
Appreciate any assistance & thanks again for everything! Airplane should be
flying by years end.
From The PossumWorks - Mark Phillips
Message 16
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| Subject: | Electric Carb heat? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
I couldn't find the original sender of this message. I even
searched the archive. I hope this gets to him.
Are you trying to avoid the purchase of the device listed here?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/carbheater.php
Maybe bolt-on is the way to go.
Matt-
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob Housman"
> <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
>
> It does not change your conclusion but the specific heat of air at any
> combination of temperature and pressure likely to be encountered in an
> airplane is 0.24 cal/gm deg C vs. specific heat of water under similar
> conditions of 1.0.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
> Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
> Airframe complete
> Irvine, CA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
> L. Nuckolls, III
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electric Carb heat?
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
>> I am trying to design an electric full time carb heat system for my
>> Bing carb using Nichrome wire. I anticiapte that I would need to heat
>> the carb body up about 50F over amibent. I am still experimenting
>> with carb temps without heat, but theory claims it is possible to
>> experinece up to 80F temp loss due to vaporization of the fuel. I
>> know little to nothing about what I need to know, I just have a basic
>> idea. I thought to wrap the wire around the bing carb body to keep it
>> warm at all times without heating the intake air. How can I figure
>> out: 1. What diameter of wire to use, 2. what length of wire to use,
>> 3. how to calculate the wire temp given the use of a standard 12V
>> system (13.5?) and, 4. can I use some sort of variable input to
>> regulate the heat output so to keep the carbs at a constant temp
>> throughout the extremes in OAT?
>
> this has been considered before . . . it was about 10 years ago that
> I had some discussions with some builders on Compuserve's
> avsig forum about electric carb heat.
>
> Problem is that you've got a LOT of cold air coming into the
snip
> Eric, Dave, did I do that analysis right? In any case,
> I think you're going to find that it takes a whole
> lot more electric heat that you have available to do
> an adequate job of de-icing a carburetor.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Electric Carb heat? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:37 AM 12/1/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob Housman" <RobH@hyperion-ef.com>
>
>It does not change your conclusion but the specific heat of air at any
>combination of temperature and pressure likely to be encountered in an
>airplane is 0.24 cal/gm deg C vs. specific heat of water under similar
>conditions of 1.0.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Rob Housman
>Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
>Airframe complete
>Irvine, CA
Very good. Thanks for the heads-up. It's been many moons
since I ran through that kind of analysis and was depending
on too much data from memory. I recall now that it's aluminum
and air that share a closely related specific heat, not
water and air.
Okay, with the learned assistance of Mr. Housman, we'll have to
revise our brute-force electric carb heat down to 1750 watts
or a paltry 160 amps from our 14 v system!
More selective application of heat may deice the carb
but may also move the icing risk to another part of the
induction system. I had a VW minibus years ago that I converted
from troublesome dual Solex carbs to a single two-barrel Carter
that sat centered over the engine on a new manifold.
It was a useful conversion 99.5% of the time. The
car began behaving poorly on a trip back from
Augusta one cold, wet night and finally refused to run at
any speed several miles from home. Looked at the engine and
found the carburetor and several inches of the intake manifold
encrusted in about 1/2" of exterior ice. Pulled the air cleaner
of found carburetor plugged so much that I couldn't see the
throttle plates.
After sitting for about 30 minutes, exterior ice fell off
from residual engine heat. Got the car started and it ran
badly to a service station where I got it pulled into a
service bay. After 4-5 minutes in warmer air, all the ice
was melted and water sucked through the engine. Drove on home
with no further incident. Had the car for several years
before and after that experience. Never again encountered
conditions that produced such prodigious icing.
This underscores the value of going to the icing tunnel
to test pitot tubes, engine inlet heaters and leading edge
deicing systems in as realistic a situation as possible.
Just keeping ice out of the carb may not be enough and
in some cases might make icing worse in places not
previously identified as potential hazards.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Carb heat? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:45 AM 12/1/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> >> I am trying to design an electric full time carb heat system for my
> >> Bing carb using Nichrome wire.
>
> > your heater needs to good for about 7700 watts.
> > If you have a 2 cycle engine, the volume of air doubles
> > and so does the necessary power.
>
>I lost $5K on palladium futures in that Pons and Fleischman thing, so I know
>how tricky thermodynamics can be---but the reasonableness test suggests that
>putting 10.32 horsepower into heating a pot-metal carburetor would not only
>melt the ice, but maybe the carburetor too. I think the calculations err in
>the transfer efficiency.
Mr. Housman pointed out use of the wrong specific heat
for air so indeed, power required for the same temperature
rise would be 1/4th that calculated initially.
Bob . . .
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Carb heat? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:22 AM 12/1/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Paul Wilson <pwilson@climber.org>
>
>Another thought is to use hot fluid at the air intake to heat the air. For
>an air cooled engine use hot oil and for a water cooled engine use the
>coolant. The one I saw was on a Rotax and consisted of and aluminum plate
>(about ~1/2" thick) mated to the carb inlet with coolant holes drilled so
>the water flowed in a square pattern to heat the plate. The air is
>heated by the plate. The hole in the plate was the same as the carb inlet.
>The guy hat it instrumented and said it heated the air just fine. The guy
>has a manual valve control for the coolant flow.
>Paul
I don't recall which car it was now, perhaps a chevy 6-cylinder
of the 1965 era that had hot water hoses plumbed into passages
of the intake manifold for carburetor warming. I also recall
that a friend of mine in high school swapped out the carb on
his GM V-8 with some super-whizzy design. He replaced a thick
phenolic spacer under the carb with an aluminum one that was also
an adapter for the new mounting hole pattern.
He was plagued with poor performance issues in summer that
turned out to be heat conduction from engine up to the carb
prevented by the stock phenolic spacer block.
Every new system idea needs to be boiled down to it's simple-idea
constituents to make sure the value and requirement for each
idea are known and understood.
Bob . . .
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Re: Re: Compass Advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> >I'll bet the "active antenna + receiver" costs more than
> >a GPS-310 + adapter cable. Further, the active antenna
> >can't be removed from the airplane and used independently
> >on internal batteries and back-lighted display.
> >I'll suggest the GPS310 is better value.
> > Bob . . .
>
>Yeh but.....The NON-active GPS antennas can tell the direction and elevation
>of all satellites. BUT the orientation of the airplane (such as upside down)
>can't be determined. That's why this antenna must be used---because it knows
>which way it's pointed in addition to where the satellites are.
sure, but this was originally a question about compass
backups. If I were to build an IFR machine today, I don't
think I would include a DG as long as I had multiple GPS
sources in addition to an electronic magnetic compass.
>I think were on the edge of an aircraft instrument revolution. But maybe I'm
>out of my field here.........
Understand. So many new ideas, so little time . . .
> >> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
> >>Anybody know why it is not available in North America?
>
>Bob---They don't want ME to have one so the rest of you have to be punished
>too.
We've probably got friends over the pond who could acquire
one for evaluation. What do they cost?
Bob . . .
Message 21
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| Subject: | Electric Carb heat? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: william mills <courierboy@earthlink.net>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
>
>I couldn't find the original sender of this message. I even
>searched the archive. I hope this gets to him.
>
>Are you trying to avoid the purchase of the device listed here?
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/carbheater.php
>
>Maybe bolt-on is the way to go.
>
>Matt-
>N34RD
Matt -
It appears these are not available. No prices are shown and attempts
to order them fail.
I sent an email inquiry - will report back if they respond.
Bill
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Carb heat? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Steitle <msteitle@mail.utexas.edu>
At 09:45 AM 12/1/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> >> I am trying to design an electric full time carb heat system for my
> >> Bing carb using Nichrome wire.
>
>
>My own approach would be with PTC heaters (Google search "PTC heater"). They
>are automatic and the current through them can tell you exactly what's
>happening. Automobiles use zillions of them to defrost rear view mirrors.
>You specify these to keep the heat at --let's say-- above 10 degrees C. You
>won't ever feel them warm up but there won't be any ice!
The Geo Tracker uses a PTC heater between the TBI and intake
manifold. Maybe you could adapt this for your use.
For a drawing of this system, including the PTC heater, see
http://www.rlb.50megs.com/trkptc.html
Mark S.
Lancair ES
Austin, TX
Message 23
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| Subject: | Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
Hi Bob.
I have a question for you regarding a battery drain situation.
What is the best way to determine a battery drain (besides the obvious), and
the amount of drain?
Thanks, Michael Valentine
(Watsonville Seminar)
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: annunciator drawings & photos |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul@eucleides.com>
On Mon, 2003-12-01 at 05:57, KITFOXZ@aol.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
> This is a slick design but I object to the wire count (even though the
> wires could be very small gauge). I have envisioned but not yet built a
> sending unit that is simply a linear pot driven by a lever suspended by a couple
of
> small coil springs. --Only two wires required to drive an LED display with a
> V/D converter.
>
> John P. Marzluf
> Columbus, Ohio
> Kitfox Outback (out back in the garage)
Well, John, I know nothing of the design. I just posted the zip file to
my server and listed the contents. I haven't even seen the pictures or
the drawings myself yet.
Please direct your questions, critique and concerns to the author, Mark
Phillips <Fiveonepw@aol.com> or to this forum.
I did not intend to take any credit for the design or construction
created by Mark as I did not contribute to it in any way.
>
>
--
PAF Consulting Engineers | 427 - 140th Ave NE
(425)641-8202 voice | Bellevue, WA 98005
(425)641-1773 fax | <mailto:paul@eucleides.com>
GnuPG Public Key - <http://eucleides.com/pgpkey.asc>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: trigger PTT. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
Aren't you going to drive the trim motors from a pair of relays? If so,
your joystick switch current will be pretty small. I too am going to use
an Infinity joystick and have been working on the wiring diagrams for the
past few days. The 4-way trim switch is rated at 1A and the rest of the
switches are all 6A. So unless you're planning to put a starter switch on
the joystick and drive a big honking starter contactor, I think
microswitches would have worked. The Infinity switches should be much more
reliable and long-lasting than the el-cheapo joystick stuff.
Dave Morris
At 12:15 PM 12/1/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
>
>Yeah...I went that route. I pulled the stick apart intending to liberate
>the switches, but found they were very small and I didn't want to take the
>risk of overloading them with the kinds of power I was planning to stick
>across them. The switches in the commercial sticks expect small signal-type
>mAmp currents, not the larger control currents we would use when switching
>trim motors, say.
>
>But....I used the stick shape as a model to carve custom sticks from a
>mahogany block. The blocks turned out nicely, but I still needed micro
>switches to install in my home grown stick. Even the top hat switch, when
>bought separately, runs $40+, without the other switches, plus I still had
>the problem of installing them in wood.
>
>So after much trying, I finally bit the bullet and bought the Infinity
>stick. Around $170 list, and not as sexy looking as my polished mahogany
>beauties, but I got everything I wanted. Could have saved a lot of hassle too.
>
>Neil
>
>
>At 11:51 AM 12/1/03, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
> >
> >Pick up a flight sim joystick for about $30. Even if you don't use the
> >whole grip, you can remove the trigger and the microswitch and the hinge
> >mechanism that hooks the two together.
> >
> >Dave Morris
> >
> >
> >At 09:53 PM 11/30/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
> > ><sarg314@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > >Bob:
> > > I have a couple of stick grips which I can carve to hold whatever
> > >PTT switch I want. I'd like a trigger type switch with a weak spring
> > >positioned under my index finger. I could build something out of a
> > >plunger+spring+microswitch, I guess, but are you aware of any off the
> > >shelf trigger style momentary contact switches? I haven't been able to
> > >find any.
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >
> > >--
> > >Tom Sargent
> > >RV-6A
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 26
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
I am planning to purchase one of those 12 volt "power packs" - aka "auto boosters"
- as a cost effective source for an RG battery for a homebuilt RV-3.
Are there any pointers in what to look for when buying same? I realize that most
of the advertising claims about cranking amps and such will tend to be a bit
flaky but are there any useful guides other than picking up the box and guessing
the weight of the battery inside?
Saw an AC Delco unit to day mentioning it contained a 17 amp hr battery. Suitable
for my intended use?
I am writing from Canada so any comment from someone familiar with the Canadian
Tire line of these devices would be especially helpful.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
Message 27
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| Subject: | RG Battery Pack Purchase |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
I am planning to purchase one of those 12 volt "power packs" - aka "auto boosters"
- as a cost effective source for an RG battery for a homebuilt RV-3.
Are there any pointers in what to look for when buying same? I realize that most
of the advertising claims about cranking amps and such will tend to be a bit
flaky but are there any useful guides other than picking up the box and guessing
the weight of the battery inside?
Saw an AC Delco unit to day mentioning it contained a 17 amp hr battery. Suitable
for my intended use?
I am writing from Canada so any comment from someone familiar with the Canadian
Tire line of these devices would be especially helpful.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:31 PM 12/1/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
>
>Hi Bob.
>
>I have a question for you regarding a battery drain situation.
>
> What is the best way to determine a battery drain (besides the obvious),
> and
>the amount of drain?
>
>Thanks, Michael Valentine
>
>(Watsonville Seminar)
You can put an ammeter in series with the battery and measure
the current required by each and/or total suite of powered
devices.
What question are you trying to answer? E-bus loads?
Bob . . .
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
Is there a way to measure the amperage without disconnecting the battery
cable?
Michael
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
> I am planning to purchase one of those 12 volt "power packs" - aka
> "auto boosters" - as a cost effective source for an RG battery for a
> homebuilt RV-3.
Are these power boosters cheaper than just buying an RG battery on its own
(the Powersonic 18Ah in my RV-6 cost $47 usd)?
Rob Acker
do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | Dual voltage electrical system |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
The Astron N2412-12 DC-DC converter drains the 12V battery on it's
output at the rate of about 23mA when the input is disconnected.
Dave Swartzendruber
>
> Dave, do you know how this critter will behave with a battery
> across the output? Is there a need to disconnect the battery
> from the converter if it's not powered up? I've been scratching
> on a Z-figure example of how this could be done and my sense is
> that a battery disconnect relay would be needed to float the
> battery completely free when the airplane is parked.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: annunciator drawings & photos |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
In a message dated 12/1/2003 12:17:53 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Fiveonepw@aol.com writes:
Since you have the drawing, could I beg ya to take a look at the way I have
the Altronix 6062 timers connected? (top of drawing 6a) I could swear this
is
the same as the sample you sent me way back when. I am at work right now so
can't check them for exactly how they currently function, but they seem to
behave opposite the intended way. I pulled up the data sheet on the timers
and
it seems I need to cut a jumper on the board to disable the start-up time (or
something- sheet is at home too!) Does anything particularly "wrong" jump
out
at you?
Appreciate any assistance & thanks again for everything! Airplane should be
flying by years end.
Hello Mark,
I spoke too soon! I mistakenly thought your annunciator was for stab trim
position annunciation only. I can't open your drawings because I don't have a
compatible Cad program on my home machine. Saw the photos and all the wires
and then I assumed they all went to a multi switch (mag reed switches) set up at
your trim motor. If you can suggest a source to download a free viewer let
me know. Did I send you a data sheet on the 6062's? If not, send me a FAX
number...
John
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: annunciator drawings & photos |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
In a message dated 12/1/2003 2:54:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
paul@eucleides.com writes:
Well, John, I know nothing of the design. I just posted the zip file to
my server and listed the contents. I haven't even seen the pictures or
the drawings myself yet.
Paul,
I know that. I was just making comment. I spoke too soon as it turns out
seeing only the pictures. I'll have to look at the drawings when I can open
them.
John
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Compass Advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Hi Dave -
I looked at your web site and have a comment on the annunciator panel. I
really like the Honeywell stuff, but there are 2 problems with it. One is
that they apparently do not stock all of the components and their
suppliers/dealers/distributors have to order them special for someone who
wants them. Secondly, and obviously, they are very expensive.
Have I missed something in my research? If you know of a
supplier/distributor who has all of the pieces in stock, please send me an
email with the particulars.
Also, the F-16 panel: What hardware comes with it? I could not find a
listing to determine how difficult it would be to install or adapt.
Many thanks,
John
On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 00:51:12 -0600, Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
wrote:
> The poor man's EFIS is at www.MyGlassCockpit.com.
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:56 PM 12/1/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
>
>Is there a way to measure the amperage without disconnecting the battery
>cable?
There are hall-effect devices that can measure current in
a wire without breaking into the wire. Under what situations
are you wanting to measure battery current?
Bob . . .
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:20 PM 12/1/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
>I am planning to purchase one of those 12 volt "power packs" - aka "auto
>boosters" - as a cost effective source for an RG battery for a homebuilt RV-3.
>
>Are there any pointers in what to look for when buying same? I realize
>that most of the advertising claims about cranking amps and such will tend
>to be a bit flaky but are there any useful guides other than picking up
>the box and guessing the weight of the battery inside?
>
>Saw an AC Delco unit to day mentioning it contained a 17 amp hr battery.
>Suitable for my intended use?
>
>I am writing from Canada so any comment from someone familiar with the
>Canadian Tire line of these devices would be especially helpful.
These products generally retail in US for about $45-50. I'm thinking you
can buy a Panasonic 17 a.h. battery from lots of folk on the
Internet for about the same amount. I'd buy a "booster" from
a hardware store to acquire a "get home" battery but if you have
the time to order a name brand battery from a reputable supplier
for the same dollars, why not?
Check out
http://dkc3.digikey.com/pdf/T033/1049.pdf
The Panasonic LC-RD1217P sells for $36.00
Bob . . .
Message 37
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| Subject: | RG Battery Pack Purchase |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Corner <jcorner@shaw.ca>
Jim
I just installed one of these Canadian Tire batteries in my Kitfox. The
advertised 400 Cranking amp unit is an 18 amp hour battery made in China.
It appears to have fairly robust terminals for bolt on connection and so far
has performed admirably in the cold weather here in Calgary. In fact far
superior to my previous lead acid type battery.
Jim Corner
-------
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
I am planning to purchase one of those 12 volt "power packs" - aka "auto
boosters" - as a cost effective source for an RG battery for a homebuilt
RV-3.
Are there any pointers in what to look for when buying same? I realize that
most of the advertising claims about cranking amps and such will tend to be
a bit flaky but are there any useful guides other than picking up the box
and guessing the weight of the battery inside?
Saw an AC Delco unit to day mentioning it contained a 17 amp hr battery.
Suitable for my intended use?
I am writing from Canada so any comment from someone familiar with the
Canadian Tire line of these devices would be especially helpful.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
It is for an automotive situation where my vehicle will discharge during non
operation. After only 8 days the battery is not able to start the car. The
battery is about 18 months old. If I keep a trickle charge on it the car will
start up without a problem.
Michael
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Pitch Trim Motor Slow-down |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
I would like to cut the speed of my pitch trim motor about in half. It's a
12V DC motor. I've been told that if I just put a resistor in series with
the motor, it will slow down, but may burn out. Can someone tell me a
better way of reducing the motor speed? Do I need to use a voltage
regulator? Suggestions on exactly what?
Details: This is an electric pitch trim motor supplied by the Glasair kit
manufacturer. It drives a worm gear which free-wheels at each end of its
throw. That gear drives a bellcrank connected through tension springs to
the elevator bellcrank. The circuit is protected by a 2A fuse. The motor
markings are:
Martin Systems Inc.
Eatontown, NJ
9234C120-R5
73633
12V DC
01-27-96
Thanks.
Jim Oberst
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
I just bought that battery myself. It was interesting to read the fine
print and look at the graphs of the batteries in that general amp-hour
range. For anyone who hasn't done that yet, it may come as a bit of a
shock that "17 AH" does not mean you can suck 17 amps of current for an
hour while you find an airport. Typically the rating is based on 20
hours. If you intend to drain current from the battery for an hour, you
need to limit yourself to about 1/2 the rated AH rating (about 8 amps in
this case).
Dave Morris
At 06:13 PM 12/1/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
> These products generally retail in US for about $45-50. I'm thinking you
> can buy a Panasonic 17 a.h. battery from lots of folk on the
> Internet for about the same amount.
>
> Check out
> http://dkc3.digikey.com/pdf/T033/1049.pdf
> The Panasonic LC-RD1217P sells for $36.00
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitch Trim Motor Slow-down |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chuck Borne" <caborne3@charter.net>
Jim,
Matronics (our list sponsor) has an adjustable speed governor (Mk III)
available for just that. I've got them installed for pitch and roll trim
servos. Check out matronics.com
Chuck Borne
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Pitch Trim Motor Slow-down
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst"
<joberst@cox-internet.com>
>
> I would like to cut the speed of my pitch trim motor about in half. It's
a
> 12V DC motor. I've been told that if I just put a resistor in series with
> the motor, it will slow down, but may burn out. Can someone tell me a
> better way of reducing the motor speed? Do I need to use a voltage
> regulator? Suggestions on exactly what?
>
> Details: This is an electric pitch trim motor supplied by the Glasair kit
> manufacturer. It drives a worm gear which free-wheels at each end of its
> throw. That gear drives a bellcrank connected through tension springs to
> the elevator bellcrank. The circuit is protected by a 2A fuse. The motor
> markings are:
>
> Martin Systems Inc.
> Eatontown, NJ
> 9234C120-R5
> 73633
> 12V DC
> 01-27-96
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jim Oberst
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Compass Advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
You can get the AircraftSimulators/AGT annunciator panels and switch panels
either with or without hardware (see
http://www.aircraftsimulators.com/faq.html)
I'm not pushing either the Honeywell lights or the AGT panels. I just want
everybody to know that the flight sim community has got some pretty cool
stuff available out there.
AGT quoted me an annunciator panel with 16 warning lights with an engraved
acrylic plate and all LEDs mounted for $95. Backlit acrylic switch panels
about 3"x8" loaded with switches for about $120 to $160 depending on design.
Dave Morris
At 06:37 PM 12/1/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
><jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
>Hi Dave -
>
>I looked at your web site and have a comment on the annunciator panel. I
>really like the Honeywell stuff, but there are 2 problems with it. One is
>that they apparently do not stock all of the components and their
>suppliers/dealers/distributors have to order them special for someone who
>wants them. Secondly, and obviously, they are very expensive.
>
>Have I missed something in my research? If you know of a
>supplier/distributor who has all of the pieces in stock, please send me an
>email with the particulars.
>
>Also, the F-16 panel: What hardware comes with it? I could not find a
>listing to determine how difficult it would be to install or adapt.
>
>Many thanks,
>
>John
>
>
>On Mon, 01 Dec 2003 00:51:12 -0600, Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
>wrote:
>
> > The poor man's EFIS is at www.MyGlassCockpit.com.
> >
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
DNA: do not archive
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Lister,
Please read over the AeroElectric-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
AeroElectric-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/AeroElectric-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
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