Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:11 AM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 07:27 AM - Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 08:12 AM - Re: Re: Compass Advice (kempthornes)
4. 08:29 AM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (Paul Messinger)
5. 08:37 AM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (ALWAYSPDG@aol.com)
6. 08:42 AM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (ALWAYSPDG@aol.com)
7. 08:54 AM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (Walter Duschek)
8. 09:06 AM - Dual CDI necessity (Scott Diffenbaugh)
9. 09:20 AM - test (Paul Messinger)
10. 10:05 AM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (ALWAYSPDG@aol.com)
11. 12:13 PM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (Paul Messinger)
12. 12:28 PM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 12:34 PM - Bond studs are back (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 02:21 PM - D-sub wire size (Terry Watson)
15. 03:03 PM - Dual CDI necessity (Dan O'Brien)
16. 04:03 PM - Sky-tec not cranking - Canard, Z14, Lyc IO-360 (I-Blackler, Wayne R)
17. 05:20 PM - Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob (ALWAYSPDG@aol.com)
18. 05:36 PM - Re: Sky-tec not cranking - Canard, Z14, Lyc (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 05:37 PM - Re: D-sub wire size (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 08:10 PM - Re: Sky-tec not cranking - Canard, Z14, Lyc IO-360 (James E. Clark)
21. 09:29 PM - Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase (Dave Morris)
22. 11:18 PM - Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:56 PM 12/1/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
>
>It is for an automotive situation where my vehicle will discharge during non
>operation. After only 8 days the battery is not able to start the car. The
>battery is about 18 months old. If I keep a trickle charge on it the car will
>start up without a problem.
>
>
>Michael
Okay, getting in series with the battery to measure the drain
current is only academic . . . you already KNOW there is some
current and that it's too much to allow reasonable storage
intervals.
Putting an ammeter in series with the battery MAY help you
find out what the drain is . . . but it's a long shot. First,
find out how much the current draw is . . . this will give you
some clues. Suppose it's about .2A . . . Hmmmm . . . glove box
lamps draw this kind of current. Are all your lamps REALLY going
dark when the door is closed? Try pulling fuses while watching
the ammeter. Does pulling any one fuse make the drain go away?
There's a limited amount of stuff you can do without having
access to the details of the system wiring and power distribution.
It may be that some feature of your electronically controlled
engine is stuck . . . like the driver to a small solenoid valve
somewhere in the bowls of the pollution control system. The
possibilities are many. You may have to seek help from a
professional who is more informed as to details of the
car's systems. This same individual may also KNOW what the
problem is if they've seen it happen a few dozen times on
other people's cars.
If you're interested in the challenge, certainly explore
the obvious options. Personally, I'd trundle the critter off
to my local service shop. I like challenges but this one
has the potential for spending a lot of time to learn very
little.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:53 PM 12/1/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
>
>I just bought that battery myself. It was interesting to read the fine
>print and look at the graphs of the batteries in that general amp-hour
>range. For anyone who hasn't done that yet, it may come as a bit of a
>shock that "17 AH" does not mean you can suck 17 amps of current for an
>hour while you find an airport. Typically the rating is based on 20
>hours. If you intend to drain current from the battery for an hour, you
>need to limit yourself to about 1/2 the rated AH rating (about 8 amps in
>this case).
Exactly. Batteries have a characteristic called internal impedance.
It's a parasitic resistance that throws away energy in the form of
heat in response to load on the battery in accordance with the
dictates of Watts = Amps x Volts and Volts = Amps x Ohms.
Substituting the second equation into the first for volts we
get Watts = Amps x Amps x Ohms or Watts = Amps(Squared) x Ohms.
This shows that doubling the load on your battery makes for
a 4x increase in energy tossed off as heat by internal impedance.
All batteries are characterized by their manufacturers. Download
http://www.aeroelectric.com/temp/lc-rd1217p.pdf
on the Panasonic 17 a.h. battery. Run up the 4 hour
line to 10.5 volts and you can see that some load between
1.7 and 4.5 amps can be supported for this period of time.
It would be nice if they had plotted in more data but
suffice it to say, there's a REASON that I hound folks
for keeping the e-bus loads LOW. If you truly cannot
get the e-bus loads down on the order of 3A then a bigger
battery or second alternator should be considered.
That 4-pound SD-8 installation looks pretty good . . . no?
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Compass Advice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Is the Magellan antenna GPS package similar to Tru-Traks? This from their faq
What if I don't have a GPS? We sell a GPS-35 for $175, which is an
antenna/receiver in one unit that has no display, but will allow the AP to
function in its basic track mode. The GPS-35 is roughly the size of a
computer mouse and is usually mounted on the glareshield.
hal
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@olypen.com>
Consider the alternator. Most far east imports have alternators with
internal regulators that are connected internally to the "B" lead. The
Subaru alternators I have experience with draw 70-80 ma from the battery and
the local auto dealer as well as the local auto stores say run the car at
least once a week and or get a smart charger (NOT a trickle charger) for the
battery.
I replaced an old Motorola alternator with a used Subaru on my old truck and
discovered the battery was being discharged(took a while to get around to
disconnecting the alternator from the system to find the problem). BTW a
fully discharged wet cell auto battery will not stand this treatment long
before failure.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Battery Drain ? for Bob
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 09:56 PM 12/1/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
> >
> >It is for an automotive situation where my vehicle will discharge during
non
> >operation. After only 8 days the battery is not able to start the car.
The
> >battery is about 18 months old. If I keep a trickle charge on it the car
will
> >start up without a problem.
> >
> >
> >Michael
>
> Okay, getting in series with the battery to measure the drain
> current is only academic . . . you already KNOW there is some
> current and that it's too much to allow reasonable storage
> intervals.
>
> Putting an ammeter in series with the battery MAY help you
> find out what the drain is . . . but it's a long shot. First,
> find out how much the current draw is . . . this will give you
> some clues. Suppose it's about .2A . . . Hmmmm . . . glove box
> lamps draw this kind of current. Are all your lamps REALLY going
> dark when the door is closed? Try pulling fuses while watching
> the ammeter. Does pulling any one fuse make the drain go away?
> There's a limited amount of stuff you can do without having
> access to the details of the system wiring and power distribution.
> It may be that some feature of your electronically controlled
> engine is stuck . . . like the driver to a small solenoid valve
> somewhere in the bowls of the pollution control system. The
> possibilities are many. You may have to seek help from a
> professional who is more informed as to details of the
> car's systems. This same individual may also KNOW what the
> problem is if they've seen it happen a few dozen times on
> other people's cars.
>
> If you're interested in the challenge, certainly explore
> the obvious options. Personally, I'd trundle the critter off
> to my local service shop. I like challenges but this one
> has the potential for spending a lot of time to learn very
> little.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
Thanks Bob for your help.
Michael
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
In a message dated 12/2/2003 8:30:00 AM Pacific Standard Time,
paulm@olypen.com writes:
BTW a
fully discharged wet cell auto battery will not stand this treatment long
before failure.
What treatment are you talking about? Do you mean the occasional discharging
of the battery until it drops below 10.5 volts several times a year? This
electrical drain is on a Chevy S-10 1994 P/U 4WD.
Michael
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Duschek <walter@duschek.org>
Robert L. Nuckolls, III schrieb:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>At 09:56 PM 12/1/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
>>
>>It is for an automotive situation where my vehicle will discharge during non
>>operation. After only 8 days the battery is not able to start the car. The
>>battery is about 18 months old. If I keep a trickle charge on it the car will
>>start up without a problem.
>>
>>
>>Michael
>>
>>
>
> Okay, getting in series with the battery to measure the drain
> current is only academic . . . you already KNOW there is some
> current and that it's too much to allow reasonable storage
> intervals.
>
> Putting an ammeter in series with the battery MAY help you
> find out what the drain is . . . but it's a long shot. First,
> find out how much the current draw is . . . this will give you
> some clues. Suppose it's about .2A . . . Hmmmm . . . glove box
> lamps draw this kind of current. Are all your lamps REALLY going
> dark when the door is closed? Try pulling fuses while watching
> the ammeter. Does pulling any one fuse make the drain go away?
> There's a limited amount of stuff you can do without having
> access to the details of the system wiring and power distribution.
> It may be that some feature of your electronically controlled
> engine is stuck . . . like the driver to a small solenoid valve
> somewhere in the bowls of the pollution control system. The
> possibilities are many. You may have to seek help from a
> professional who is more informed as to details of the
> car's systems. This same individual may also KNOW what the
> problem is if they've seen it happen a few dozen times on
> other people's cars.
>
> If you're interested in the challenge, certainly explore
> the obvious options. Personally, I'd trundle the critter off
> to my local service shop. I like challenges but this one
> has the potential for spending a lot of time to learn very
> little.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>Good evening,
>
>
might be that I can pinpoint a strong potential culprit: a *modern* car
radio. I had several cases of
batterie drainage due to a failing audio output amplifier! In modern
radios, the set is not switched
of anymore - as we were used by operating a switch (turn, press or
toggle on/off). Nowadays, rather
the audio input signal is inhibited to the front stages of the
integrated preamplifier - instead of the
total B+ being switched off. If the output amplifiere fails - hey
presto, you have your batterie
discharged. This behaviour was not confined to one specific make/modell.
Pulling the fuse which
protects the radio should quickly reveal the culprit.
Perhaps this may help, Walter.
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Dual CDI necessity |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff@foothill.net>
Can anyone help me with the advantages and disadvantages of installing dual
CDI heads for IFR with the following equipment: (panel space is at a
premium)
RV7A with standard 6 pack (DG & no HSI). Garmin AT (formerly UPS) IFR stack
with MX20 MFD, CNX80 nav/com/gps, SL30 nav/com, SL15 audio, GTX330 xpdr,
Trutrak Digiflight II VSG autopoilot with horizontal & vertical GPS steering
(also has its own internal gyros). The CNX80 has a built in switch to
toggle the MD200-306 CDI between VOR & GPS. The CNX installation manual
shows a sample system diagram with a CDI hooked to the CNX80 and also one
hooked to the SL30. Note that the SL30 has its own built in CDI display,
but without glideslope display. Years ago I flew IFR with dual VOR's but
with today's sophisticated systems, I'm wondering if it's necessary. I have
queried Garmin but no response yet. Thank you,
Scott Diffenbaugh
diff@foothill.net
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@olypen.com>
test do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
Walter, thanks for the information, I'll try that.
Michael
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@olypen.com>
Depends on how low the battery gets. However several mfgrs say permanent
damage if open circuit voltage gets below around 11+v
In my case with the truck setting idle for several weeks and the battery was
below 6V (open circuit) and the second time it happened it was unwilling to
take a charge. The wet cell tech battery design used for the common auto
usage simply will not in general stand up to deep discharges.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: <ALWAYSPDG@aol.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Battery Drain ? for Bob
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/2/2003 8:30:00 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> paulm@olypen.com writes:
> BTW a
> fully discharged wet cell auto battery will not stand this treatment long
> before failure.
>
> What treatment are you talking about? Do you mean the occasional
discharging
> of the battery until it drops below 10.5 volts several times a year? This
> electrical drain is on a Chevy S-10 1994 P/U 4WD.
>
>
> Michael
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:42 AM 12/2/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/2/2003 8:30:00 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>paulm@olypen.com writes:
>BTW a
>fully discharged wet cell auto battery will not stand this treatment long
>before failure.
>
>What treatment are you talking about? Do you mean the occasional discharging
>of the battery until it drops below 10.5 volts several times a year? This
>electrical drain is on a Chevy S-10 1994 P/U 4WD.
Batteries have a service life based upon how many ampere-hours of
energy are pumped in/out of the battery. On average, a lead acid
battery will be down to 70-80% of capacity after 100 deep cycles
assuming it's immediately recharged.
Normal operation in a vehicle uses perhaps 2-3% of capacity to get
an engine started and the battery spends 99.9+ percent of it's total life
near full charge. Long periods of time at less than full charge and/or
repeated deep discharge cycles with periods of storage at near-dead
conditions will rapidly degrade the battery's ability to store energy.
I had a brand new, 100 a.h. backup battery for my local server set
unattended in the garage for about 4 months. It ran down in about
3 months and spent another month at near-dead. By the time I
remembered it, the critter was beyond salvage.
We enjoy VERY long lived car batteries because we don't expect
them to be deep-discharge backups for alternators and they get
topped off daily . . .
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Bond studs are back |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
A visit to my local junk dealer yielded another quantity of bond
studs that sold out about a couple of months ago. I left a phone
number for him to call should he find any more. In any case, we
can offer at least as many as we were able to acquire the first
time around. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( A beginning of the end is marked by )
( replacement of experience and common )
( sense with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
--------------------------------------------
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I need to know the proper wire gauge for my engine sensors that will be
routed through D-sub connectors to my Blue Mountain EFIS/one. I know 24
gauge is too small and 18 gauge seems pretty big for the 9 pin solder
connectors I have been practicing with. Will either 20 or 22 gauge work
with the crimp connectors? Is one size better than the other.
Thanks,
Terry
Message 15
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| Subject: | Dual CDI necessity |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien" <danobrien@cox.net>
Scott:
I have a Garmin 430 and UPS SL-30 and faced the same question you have for
my Lancair ES. I chose to have a single CDI to save space for other
instruments. In addition, I purchased the relay offered by Eric Jones,
who monitors this list. The relay is a nice little unit that allows you to
switch 18 wires (or is it 16, I forget) between radios so you can display
information from either nav. I figured this would be useful when and if I
use the SL-30 for an ILS or Localizer approach, or if I simply want the big
picture on the number 2 nav. I'm not flying yet, but I'm quite comfortable
with this decision.
Dan O'Brien
Lancair ES
Message 16
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| Subject: | Sky-tec not cranking - Canard, Z14, Lyc IO-360 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "I-Blackler, Wayne R" <wayne.r.blackler@boeing.com>
Hi Bob,
Excuse me if you received this email twice.
I have a starter cranking problem on my aircraft, and would very much appreciate
your input.
Test Article: Lycoming IO-360 (9.2:1) 195hp Long EZ wired with your Z-14 dual batt/dual
alt power distrib system. The batteries are Odyssey PC-680 12V 16AH units,
the alternators are SD-20 and B&C 40A. Ignition is dual Lightspeed. Starter
is Skytec.
Problem: I can barely (if at all) turn the prop with the starter. It's a stout
engine with 9.2:1 pistons and 100WW mineral oil (for break-in), but I thought
I'd at least get 1 blade through during crank!!! The engine is preheated The batteries
are warm.
Further info: My Ship Ground wires are individual 4AWG from batteries to the I.P.
Ground bus, 2AWG from the I.P. Ground bus to the Firewall ground stud (brass)
and bus (for elec fuel pump and ignitions), and a B&C braided cable to the
block. All check OK.
The Plan:
1. Check individual battery voltages while trying to crank. Check >10V, each.
2. Check the voltage at the starter (from input line to case ground cable) while
trying to crank. What should I expect?
3. Check voltage input at the starter (solenoid) while cranking. What should I
expect?
4. Check contactor voltages while cranking - a) Across Main, Aux and Crossfeed
b) across Starter. What should I expect?
5. ?? In your experience, is there anything else I should be checking?
Kind Regards,
Wayne Blackler
Seattle, WA
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Drain ? for Bob |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ALWAYSPDG@aol.com
The first thing I am going to do is determine how much drain and where it is
coming from then make repairs.
Thanks to both of you for the info.
Michael
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Sky-tec not cranking - Canard, Z14, Lyc |
IO-360
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
IO-360
At 04:00 PM 12/2/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "I-Blackler, Wayne R"
><wayne.r.blackler@boeing.com>
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>Excuse me if you received this email twice.
>
>I have a starter cranking problem on my aircraft, and would very much
>appreciate your input.
>
>Test Article: Lycoming IO-360 (9.2:1) 195hp Long EZ wired with your Z-14
>dual batt/dual alt power distrib system. The batteries are Odyssey PC-680
>12V 16AH units, the alternators are SD-20 and B&C 40A. Ignition is dual
>Lightspeed. Starter is Skytec.
>
>Problem: I can barely (if at all) turn the prop with the starter. It's a
>stout engine with 9.2:1 pistons and 100WW mineral oil (for break-in), but
>I thought I'd at least get 1 blade through during crank!!! The engine is
>preheated The batteries are warm.
>
>Further info: My Ship Ground wires are individual 4AWG from batteries to
>the I.P. Ground bus, 2AWG from the I.P. Ground bus to the Firewall ground
>stud (brass) and bus (for elec fuel pump and ignitions), and a B&C braided
>cable to the block. All check OK.
>
>The Plan:
>
>1. Check individual battery voltages while trying to crank. Check >10V, each.
yup . . . with both batteries on during cranking, I'd expect no less than
10 volts.
>2. Check the voltage at the starter (from input line to case ground cable)
>while trying to crank. What should I expect?
Hmmmm . . . with the long leads, 9+v is probably wishing . . .
>3. Check voltage input at the starter (solenoid) while cranking. What
>should I expect?
Measure voltage from either battery(+) terminal to starter(+) while
cranking . . .
Same thing for starter(-) or crankcase to battery(-) . . .
These two measurements will get your voltage drops in both power and return
lines. If you have access to a clamp-on, DC ammeter, it would be useful
to get a starter current draw too.
>4. Check contactor voltages while cranking - a) Across Main, Aux and
>Crossfeed b) across Starter. What should I expect?
>5. ?? In your experience, is there anything else I should be checking?
If the batteries are new, then either the starter is bad or
there is too much voltage drop in wiring and switch-gear.
Current draw will speak to starter issue, voltage drops
as defined above will speak to wiring and switchgear issues.
It's best to make these measurements with an analog instrument
if you can find one. Digital readings jump around too much for
accurate readings while cranking.
Bob . . .
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: D-sub wire size |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:20 PM 12/2/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
>I need to know the proper wire gauge for my engine sensors that will be
>routed through D-sub connectors to my Blue Mountain EFIS/one. I know 24
>gauge is too small and 18 gauge seems pretty big for the 9 pin solder
>connectors I have been practicing with. Will either 20 or 22 gauge work
>with the crimp connectors? Is one size better than the other.
D-subs will happily take 20AWG wire. If connections elsewhere will
take 20AWG then that's my best recommendation. We try to avoid
anything smaller than 20AWG under the cowl irrespective of current
levels . . . just for mechanical robustness.
Bob . . .
Message 20
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| Subject: | Sky-tec not cranking - Canard, Z14, Lyc IO-360 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
I know this was meant for Bob ***AND*** that this is a simplistic question,
but ....
Can you turn the engine by hand with and without plugs installed??
Just curious.
James
> Problem: I can barely (if at all) turn the prop with the starter.
> It's a stout engine with 9.2:1 pistons and 100WW mineral oil (for
> break-in), but I thought I'd at least get 1 blade through during
> crank!!! The engine is preheated The batteries are warm.
>
> Further info: My Ship Ground wires are individual 4AWG from
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
Bob, as an alternative to a "bigger battery", what about the idea of having
a second battery wired directly in parallel with the main battery. Then
use your technique of annual replacement of second battery, moving main
battery into aux position and replacing with a brand new main
battery. Don't create an aux battery bus, but just wire the two batteries
in parallel. Any advantage to having 2 batteries instead of one with twice
the capacity?
Dave Morris
At 09:27 AM 12/2/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> If you truly cannot
> get the e-bus loads down on the order of 3A then a bigger
> battery or second alternator should be considered.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: RG Battery Pack Purchase |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:28 PM 12/2/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
>
>Bob, as an alternative to a "bigger battery", what about the idea of having
>a second battery wired directly in parallel with the main battery. Then
>use your technique of annual replacement of second battery, moving main
>battery into aux position and replacing with a brand new main
>battery. Don't create an aux battery bus, but just wire the two batteries
>in parallel. Any advantage to having 2 batteries instead of one with twice
>the capacity?
Sure . . . but it's 12# heavier than a second alternator
and has a recurring replacement cost. Depending on how
much you pay for batteries, the second alternator will
break even in 4-7 years.
Bob . . .
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