Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:27 AM - A Special Thank You - List of Contributors (Matt Dralle)
2. 05:26 AM - Re: Firewall Penetration (F1Rocket@comcast.net)
3. 07:01 AM - Re: Firewall Penetration (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:15 AM - Re: snap noise when strobes fire (Greg Milner)
5. 07:41 AM - Re: two RG batteries in autos (Joa Harrison)
6. 08:39 AM - Re: Loadmeter (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 08:57 AM - Re: VLM-14 & LR3C-14 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 09:11 AM - Re: two RG batteries in autos (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 09:13 AM - Re: Re: snap noise when strobes fire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 09:27 AM - Remove from list ()
11. 09:27 AM - Re: Little Batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 10:15 AM - Re: Re: RV-List: batteries (czechsix@juno.com)
13. 11:03 AM - Diode (Larry Hackney)
14. 11:10 AM - Re: Re: RV-List: batteries (Eric Ruttan)
15. 11:22 AM - Re: Remove from list (Matt Prather)
16. 12:15 PM - Re: Diode (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 01:16 PM - Re: Firewall Penetration (David Carter)
18. 01:31 PM - Re: Batteries (Eric M. Jones)
19. 02:08 PM - Re: Alkaline Backup Batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 02:34 PM - Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera (David Carter)
21. 03:09 PM - OAT Sensor question (Phil Collins)
22. 04:06 PM - Re: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera (Richard Tasker)
23. 04:16 PM - NiMH batteries (David.vonLinsowe)
24. 04:18 PM - Re: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera (David Carter)
25. 04:23 PM - Re: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera (David Carter)
26. 05:18 PM - Re: NiMH batteries (AI Nut)
27. 06:05 PM - Re: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera (Gordon and Marge)
28. 06:44 PM - Re: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera (Dawson, Bill)
29. 07:07 PM - Re: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera (Jim Corner)
30. 09:37 PM - Re: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera (George Braly)
31. 10:24 PM - Re: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera (David Carter)
32. 11:02 PM - Turn Coord (Larry Hackney)
33. 11:07 PM - Cooling fan (Larry Hackney)
34. 11:46 PM - Re: NiMH batteries (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | A Special Thank You - List of Contributors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
This year's List Fund Raiser was pleasantly successful and I want to thank
everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the continued
operation and upgrade of these Lists! Below you will find the complete
list of this year's Contributors. Its these great guys that make it all
possible! All of the List members owe these special people a debt of
gratitude.
I would also like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder Bookstore (
http://www.buildersbooks.com ) for again this year providing free and
substantially discounted merchandise in support of the Fund Raiser. Andy
is a great guy and I encourage you to check out his very nice web
site. Thanks again, Andy!!
For those of you that ordered gifts with your Contribution, I will be
shipping these out over the next few weeks as the merchandise arrives and
as I can get all of the orders processed. Its quite a job so I appreciate
your patience! I hope to have everything on its way by the end of the
month if not sooner.
If you would still like to make a Contribution to support the Lists, please
feel free to do so! If you'd like to receive one of the awesome free
gifts, they will be available on the web page though the end of the
month. The Contribution web page can be found here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Finally, I would like to once again sincerely thank each and everyone of
you that took the time to make a Contribution to support the Lists this
year! Your kind support greatly appreciated!
THANK YOU!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
------------------- 2003 List of Contributors #1 -----------------
Adamson, Arden
Akin, Thomas
Alber, John
Alexander, Don
Alexander, George
Allender, Pat
Allison, Steven
Amick, Michael
Amundsen, Blair
Anderson, Douglas
Anderson, Edward
Andrews, Myles
Anthony, Bruce
Applefeld, Gerald
Aronson, David
Aschliman, Jim
Atkinson, Harold
Austin, Peter
Avant, David
Ayers, Jim
Babb, Tony
Bahrns, Stan
Bailey, Rick
Baker, Gary
Baker, James
Baker, Owen
Baker, Roger
Bales, Robert
Ballenger, Jim
Balmer, G
Banus, Mark
Barnett, William
Barrie, Darwin
Barter, Thomas
Basiliere, Richard
Bataller, Gary
Batte, W.Granville
Bean, James
Bean, Robert
Beard, Harley
Becker, Charles
Bell, BruceB.
Belted, Air Power, Ltd
Benham, Dallas
Benjamin, Hal
Benson, Lonn
Benson, Lonnie
Berg, Wayne
Bergeron, Daniel
Bernard, William
Berner, Walter
Bernier, Jim
Berry, Bruce
Bertelli, John
Bertrand, Carl
Berube, Bob
Bezzard, Richar
Bidle, Jerry
Bieberdorf, Roger
Bish, Dan
Blackwell, Charles
Blake, Peter
Blank, Steven
Blomgren, Jack
Bohannon, Larry
Bond, Charles
Bonsell, Edward
Booze, Greg
Borne, Chuck
Bosomworth, David
Boucher, Michel
Boulet, Paul
Bourne, Larry
Bowen, Larry
Bowhay, Eustace
Brame, Charles
Branstrom, Dan
Brasch, Glenn
Breckenridge, Bruce
Brick, John
Brogley, Michael
Brooks, Chris
Brooks, John
Brooks, Ken
Brooks, William
Broomell, Glenn
Brown, Gerald R.
Bruce, L.B.
Bruch, Stein
Brunke, Judy
Buchanan, Sam
Buchmann, Kenneth
Buess, Alfred
Bullock, Jack
Bumhoffer, Al
Burke, James
Burks, Terrell
Burns, John
Burton, Charlie
Burton, James
Burton, Ron
Butcher, James
Butcher, Ron
Butler, Francis
Butterfield, John
Buyse, Lieven
Calhoun, Ron
Calloway, Terry
Campbell, Greg
Cann, Robert
Cantrell, Jimmy
Capen, Ralph
Capra, Salvatore
Cardell, William
Carden, Richard
CarillonSr., Paul
Carney, William
Carpenter, Kenneth
Carr, David
Carroll, Randy
Carson, Rowland
Carter, David
Cary, William
Challgren, Stanley
Chambers, Ken
Champ, Nicolas
Chandler, Charles
Chandler, John
Ciolino, John
Clark, James
Clark, John
Clarkson, Scott
Clayton, James
Cliff, John
Cloud, Ralph
Clyma, Frank
Cochran, Jerry
Coffey, John
Coggins, Michael
Cole, Gary
Cole, Gerry
Colley, Larry
Colucci, Tony
Combined, Merchants
Combs, Doyle
Comer, Dave
Comfort, Gordon
Compton, Scott
Conaway, James
Condrey, Bob
Cone, James
Connell, Joseph
Conrad, Gerald
Conti, Richard
Cook, Craig
Cooley, John
Cooper, James
Corbalis, Leo
Corbette, Claude
Corder, Michael
Corner, Jim
Cotter, Tim
Cotton, David
Cottrell, Larry
Coulter, Carlin
Coursey, William
Courtney, Dean
Courtney, James
Couture, Wayne
Cribb, William
Croke, Jon
Crook, Tracy
Crosby, Harry
Crosley, Richard
Cruikshank, Bruce
D'Onofrio, John
Dalstrom, Douglas
Dalton, Bob
Daniel, Karie
Danielsen, HansJurgen
Darby, Frank
Daudt, Larry
Davenport, Jimmy
Davidson, Adam And Janet
Davidson, Jeff
Davies, Brian
Davis, Charles
Davis, Chris
Davis, Nathan
Davis, Peter
Davis, Terry
Dawson , Clif
Dawson, Garth
DeJong, Jan
Dearinger, William
Decramer, Dick
Deford, David
Denham, Bob
Dennis, Chris
Derouchey, Bill
Desmond, Richard
Devaney, Bob
Devere, Al
Diehl, Don
Diffenbaugh, Scott
Disher, John
Dixon, Thomas (Steve)
Dominy, Ken
Donaldson, Norman
Doran, Thomas
Dresden, Robert
Driscoll, Patrick
Dube, Bill
Dudley, Richard
Duffy, Russell
Dukerich, Thomas
Dumoret, Paul
Eagleston, Ron
Eckel, John
Edwards, Garland
Edwards, Joseph
Eginton, William
Eli, Robert
Ellenberger, Mike
Elliott, Andrew
Ellison, Craig
Enga, Wallace
Engh, Duncan
Enns, Dennis
Erb, Bob
Erickson, Alan
Erickson, Gerald
Erikson, Donald
Ervin, Tom
Erwin, Chip
Esterhuizen, Deon
Etherington, Al
Evans, Walt
Evenson, Roger
Fackler, Ken
Faris, Kevin
Farmer, Daniel
Fasching, John
Feldmann, StephenW.
Ferrer, Gabriel
Finley, John
Finley, Jon
Fischer, Doug
Fishe, JF
Fisher, Dru
Fisher, Michael
Fisher, Tom
Fitzpatrick, Robert
Flamini, Dennis
Flavin, John
Fleck, Joe
Foerster, James
Fogerson, Richard
Forrest, Gerald
Fox, Byron
Franz, Carl
Frazier, Ford
Frazier, Vince
Friedland, Thomas
Frizzell, Alex
Frye, Dwight
Fulgham, W.R.
Fulmer, JosephA
Fux, Franz
Gagnon, Laurent
Gagnon, Tim
Galati, Rick
Gallagher, Noel
Galley, Cy
Gantzer, Charles
Gardner, Albert
Gardner, Terrence
Garner, Mitchell
Gates, Leo
Gawronski, Brian
Gaylen Lerohl, Terminaltown
Geldermann, Dan
Genzlinger, Reade
George, William
Gerken, James
German, Mark
Gernetzke-hays, Jill
Gherardini, Don
Giacona, William
Giddens, Gerald
Gillespie, Dick
Giusti, Roberto
Glass, Roy
Golden, Shane
Gonzalez, Jorge
Goode, Richard
Goodings, John
Goodman, David
Goolsby, JamesE.
Gordon, Keith
Gott, Shelby
Goudinoff, Peter
Gowing, John
Grabb, Gary
Graber, Joel
Graham, Gary
Graham, Jim
Graham, W.Doyce
Grant, Jordan
Grebe, David
Green, Luther
Green, Roger
Greenough, Jim
Gregory, Michael
Griffin, Bill
Griffin, James
Griffin, Robert
Grosse, John
Gustafson, Aaron
Haertlein, Frank
Hagar, Steve
Haley, Gary
Hallsten, Keith
Hamer, Steve
Hamilton, William J
Hand, Chris
Hankins, Roger
Hankinson, Jimmy
Harbour, Keith
Hardaway, Mike
Harding, Joel
Harmon, John
Harrison, Nigel
Hartwig, Richard
Harvey, Dale
Hasper, Jim
Hatch, Pat
Hatcher, Edmund
Hatfield, Cecil Jr.
Hauck, JohnR
Haynes, Joel
Heath, Donald
Hefner, Jim
Heindl, Karl
Heitman, Christopher
Helming, Larry
Heritch, Ian
Herminghaus, John
Herren, Bill
Hetrick, Dale
Heykoop, John
Hibbing, William
Hill, Jeff
Hill, Ken
Hill, Stanley A
Himes, Joe
Hinrichsen, Jim
Hodgson, Mark
Hodgson, Robert
Hoffman, Carl
Hoffman, Curtis
Hoffmann, Thomas
Hohos, Charles
Holifield, Steve
Holland, Mike
Holland, Rick
Holmes, Tom
Hood, Bill
Hooper, Gerald
Hooper, Randy
Horton, Kevin
Hostetler, Donald
Howell, Pete
Howerton, Bill
Hubbard, Eugene
Hudson, Jeff
Hueltz, Wolfgang
Huff, Scott
Huft, John
Hughes, Robert
Hulen, Fred
Humbert, Robert
Humes, Hubert
Humes, Hugh
Humphrey, Roger
Hunt, Peter
Hunt, Wallace G
Hurd, James
Hurst, Kingsley
Hutchison, Tom
Hyde, David
Ice, Michael
Iddon, Richard
Irvin, Robert
Isler, Jerry
Jackson, Kevin
Jacobson, Marshall
Jannakos, Gregory
Jaussi, Curtis
Jenkins, John
Jensen, Jerry
Jewell, James
Johannsson, Johann G.
John Allen Hurn, Hurns Aircraft
Johnsen, Svein
Johnson, Bruce
Johnson, Dale
Johnson, Dennis
Johnson, Les
Johnson, Murray
Johnson, Robert
Johnston, Stephen
Jones, Eric
Joosten, Craig
Jordan, JR
Joyce, David
Jurotich, Matthew
Kahn, Steve
Kaluza, Charles
Karmy, Andrew
Kaser, Jim
Kayner, Dennis
Kellum, Mark
Kempthorne, Hal
Kent, John
Kerr, John
Kerr, Joseph
Kesterton, Donald
Kilburg, Larry
Killion, Clay
Kimsey, Thomas
Kinney, Kevin
Kirby, Graham
Kirk, Tony
Knepper, Harold
Knoll, Lynn
Kohn, Carl
Koonce, R.L.
Kosta, Michael
Kottke, Dwight
Kovac, Harold
Kramer, Ed
Krasinski, Jerzy
Krok, Peter
Krueger, Grant
Kunkel, Fred
Kuntz, Paul
Kyle, Fergus
Lahey, Jim
Laird, Dave
Laishes, Jeff
Lally, Sean
Lalonde, Bart
Landucci, Larry
Lannon, W.
Lasecki, Robert
Laurie, Kip
Laverty, Charles
Lavigne, Pat
Lawliss, James
Lawrence, Derek
Lawton, John
Ledbetter, Gene
Ledoux, Paul
Lee, Terrence
Lefler, Fabian
Lekven, Carl
Lemen, Ted
Lenton, Dennis
Leonard, Nicolas
Leslie, George
Lewis, Terry
Lewis, Tim
Licking, Larry
Lifer, Craig
Liming, Gary
Linebaugh, Jeff
Linse, Michael
Lloyd, Brian
Long, Charles
Long, Eugene
Long, Patrick
Loubert, Gary
Mack, Don
Mackay, Alex
Madden, Peter
Magsam, Del
Mahr, Egon
Mains, Ralph
Malich, Gunter
Markle, Jim
Markwell, Cleone
Marshall, F.R.
Marshall, Nigel
Marson, Thomas
Martin, Bryan
Martin, Clifford
Martin, Richard
Mason, Ron
Matteson, Robert
Maxson, Phillip
Maynor, Troy
Mcallister, Paul
Mcbride, Duncan
Mccallister, Donald
Mccallum, Bob
Mccutchan, Bruce
Mcfarland, Larry
Mcfarland, Randy
Mcfarlane, Lloyd
Mcgregor, Bruce
Mcintosh, Wayne
Mcintyre, Jay
Mckervey, Joseph
Mcleod, Neil
Mcmanus, Jim
Medeiros, Joel
Meehan, Don
Mekeel, DonaldE
Melenyzer, Charles IV
Merchant, Dean
Merrill, Dj
Messinger, Paul
Meyette, Brian
Michel, Riazuelo
Miller, David
Miller, Mark
Miller, Robert
Miller, Warren
Mills, Moe
Mills, William
Milner, Gregory
Milner, Red
Mineart, Stephen
Mitchell, HD
Moak, Ken
Montagne, Raymond
Montgomery, Dale
Moore, David
Moore, Glenn
Moore, Marbert
Moore, Warren
Morawski, Brett
Morelli, William
Morin, Mauri
Morrison, Douglas
Morrison, Malcolm
Morrow, Dan
Mosher, Doc
Mosier, Colby
Mrotzek, Dan
Muegge, James
Murphy, George
Murray, Ronald
Murrill, Robert
Myers, John
Myhra, Donald
Nascimento, Marcio
Nash, Simon
Neilsen, Richard
Nelson, William
Nicely, Vincent
Nickless, Jim
Nickson, Dennis
Nolan, Jim
North, Wheeler
Noyer, Robert
Nyman, Stephen
O'Brien, Dan
O'Donnell, David
O'Reilly, Colm
Oberst, James
Oconnor, Edward
Ohlinger, Judith
Ohlinger, Mark & Judy
Okeefe, Lawrence
Oldford, David
Olendorf, James
Orear, Jeff
Otaola, Ricardo
Ouellette, Will
Overall, Dana
Owens, Duane
Owens, Phil
Packard, Tom
Parker, Dennis
Parks, Dann
Partyka, LeeM
Patsey, Kevin
Patterson, Ron
Payne, Craig
Payne, Ron
Pelletier, Dave
Perez, M. Domenic
Perkins, Stan
Perry, John
Petaccia, Ettore
Peterson, Alex
Peterson, David
Peterson, Paul
Petri, David
Pettey, Don
Petty, Paul
Pflimlin, Paul
Pfundt, Jan
Phillips, Mark
Phillips, Russell
Pierce, Tony
Pike, Richard
Pilling, Kevin
Pinkston, Gordon
Plecenik, Michael
Pocock, Graham
Point, Jeff
Porter, Richard
Potter, Lee
Powell, Jim
Powell, Ken
Preston, Douglas
Pritchard, Roger
Proctor, Joe
Puckett, Greg
Puglise, James
Rabaut, Charles
Raby, Ron
Randolph, George
Ray, Rick
Ray, Rob
Reading, Thomas Sr
Red Dragon Aviation
Reeck, Kris And Art
Reel, David
Reese, Wayne
Reeves, William
Reimer, Curt
Render, James
Repucci, William
Reuschle, Jeffrey
Reusser, Hans-Peter
Reynolds, Richard
Rice, James
Richards, Stephen
Richardson, Colin
Richardson, Scott
Richter, Randall
Rickard, Ian
Rickman, Loy
Rigby, David
Riley, Stuart
Ringrose, Andrew
Robert, Nuckolls
Roberts, Gary
Roberts, Jeffrey
Roberts, John
Rodebush, James
Rodriguez, Paul
Roehr, Mike
Romine, Chris
Ross, Chris
Ross, William
Rourke, John
Rozendaal, Doug
Russell, E.Frank
Russell, Jack
Russell, Keith
Ryan, Mike
Sa, Carlos
Saffold, Michael
Sager, Truman
Salter, Phillip
Sanders, Andrew
Sapp, Doug
Sargent, Thomas
Satterlee, Robert
Sax, Samuel
Schaefer, Steven
Schertz, William
Schieber, Cedrdic
Schilling, Karl
Schlafly, Fred
Schlatterer, Bill
Schmidt, Gregory
Schmidt, John & Patty
Schneider, Werner
Schnitzlein, C.E.
Schoenberger, H.Robert
Schrimmer, Mark
Schroeder, Fire
Schroeder, John
Schumacher, Roger
Scott, James
Scott, Troy
Scroggs, Ross
Seaford, Jack
Seal, John
Selby, Jim, Sr. & Jr.
Selinger, Carsten
Selix, Richard
Setser, David
Settlemyer, Art
Shank, William
Shaw, Cliff
Shepherd, Dallas
Shepherd, Stanislaus
Shipley, Rob
Shipley, Walt
Shipp, Garry
Shumaker, Robert
Siegfried, Bob
Sigmon, Harvey
Silvanic, Ed
Simmons, Kendall
Simpkins, Shaun
Simpson, Randy
Sinclair, Michael
Sipp, Richard
Skelly, Brian
Sletten, Mark
Sloan, Alex
Smith, Danny L
Smith, David
Smith, Edmond
Smith, Gene
Smith, Kirk
Smith, Lloyd
Smith, Rodney
Smith, Ronald
Smith, Simon
Snedaker, Robert
Sobel, Martin
Solecki, John
Sorensen, Kent
Sorensen, Lance
Spainhower, Craig
Sparks, Timothy
Spence, Stephen
Spencer, Russell
Springer, Jerry
Staley, Dick
Starn, John H. "kabong"
Stewart, Michael
Stewart, Paul
Stewart, Shannon
Stone, Christopher
Stout, Randall
Strawn, David
Strong, Gary
Strong, Tom
Stuart, Clay
Sutterfield, Stan
Swaney, Mark
Swanson, Ronald
Swartzendruber, David
Sweeney, Timothy
Swinford, George
Szantho, JohnB.
Szarafinski, Roy
Szentmiklosi, Mark
Tarmar, Brian
Tasker, Richard
Textor, Jack
Thesee, Gilles
Thomas, Bruce
Thomas, Gummo
Thomas, Lee
Thomason, Michael
Thompson, Scott
Thomure, Randall
Thwing, Randy
Titcomb, Edward
Tomlin, Thomas
Tower, John
Tracy, Roger
Trainer, Dave
Trombley, Erich
Trost, Sebastian
Trumpfheller, Bob
Tuton, Beauford
Twigg, Alan
Tyler, George
Unruh, Brian
Unternaehrer, Rolf
Utter, Bob
Van Winkle, Dean
VanHeeswijk, Jack
VanHeuveln, Lemar
VanSchoonhoven, Peter
Vanartsdalen, Scott
Vandenbroek, Martin
Vangrunsven, Stan
Vaughan, Cye
Vaughn, John
Verdev, Victor
Vervoort-Woestenburg, Jef
Vincent, Bill
Vogt, Gary
VonRuden, Dennis
Vormbaum, John
Voss, Richard
Vranken, Karel
Wagoner, Richard
Waldal, Art B.
Walker, Dale
Walker, Tommy
Walker, Weston
Walrath, Howard
Walsh, Denis
Ward, Timothy
Washburn, Oliver
Watson, Richard
Watson, Terrence
Watters, Daniel
Weaver, Erich
Weaver, Fred
Webb, Randol
Weber, Edward
Webster, Tom
Weese, Brian
Weiler, Douglas
Whelan, Thomas
Whiteley, Kenneth
Whiteside, Eric
Whittier, Lavoy (aka Bucky)
Wigney, John
Wiley, Robert
Williams , John
Williams, Hildred
Williams, Jeff
Williams, Lawrence
Williams, Terry
Williamson, John
Willig, Louis
Wilson, Christopher
Wilson, Kelly
Wimmer, Thomas
Wingard, David
Winings, James
Winne, Edward
Woboril, David
Wood, Frank
Wood, Larry
Woods, Donald
Woods, Harold
Wright, Roy
Wsiaki, Michael
Wymer, Jerry
Yager, Jack
Yamokoski, William
Young, Rollin
Zaric, Radomir
Zheng, Andrew
Zilik, Gary
Zinkham, Ralph
Zollinger, Duane
Zuniga, Oscar
------------------- 2003 List of Contributors #1 -----------------
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: F1Rocket@comcast.net
Bruce,
Check out: http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html
Randy
F1 Rocket
http://f1rocket.home.comcast.net/
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: brucem@olypen.com
>
> Bob,
>
> I would like to use something like your RAC stainless steel flanged elbow
> fitting for firewall penetration of wires in my GlaStar. Searches of the
> internet and marine hardware stores has not turned up anything equivalent. A
> RV-6 builder friend found a SS shower grab bar at Home Depot; the sawn-off ends
> could provide flanged elbows. The problem is massive base and wall thickness
> and a 1-1/2" diameter - I only need 3/4".
>
> So do you know of any supply source willing to sell me two of the 1" fittings
> that you use?
>
> Thanks, Bruce
> McGregor
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> This message was sent using OlyPen's WebMail.
> http://www.olypen.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:25 PM 12/4/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: F1Rocket@comcast.net
>
>Bruce,
>
>Check out: http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html
>
>Randy
>F1 Rocket
Randy, thanks for posting this. I'd forgotten that
they finished development of this product and had
it up for sale. I've added their web address to my
list of manufacturer's data sites.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: snap noise when strobes fire |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
Thanks to `lectric Bob I was able to eliminate a whooping noise in my headset when
strobes are onby using a separate battery at the strobe power supply. Next
is to install the prescribed filter/capacitor from B&C. The snap noise is noticed
much louder in the hangar. I found the snap diminished quite a bit after
try ing the test outside the hangar so I`m going to order and install the filter
and go fly it to monitor results. I`m confident the whooping noise is going
to be fixed.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: two RG batteries in autos |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joa Harrison <flyasuperseven@yahoo.com>
I was just figuring that if you used the battery in the plane for a year then you
could swap it into a car and use it for two years. You would have *two* batteries
in the car (unless like you said one would be fine) and then one battery
would always be swapped out and the other battery used another year. The most
life any one battery would see would be three years (one in the plane and
two in the car).
The physical size of the batteries (only about 3" deep) would allow two batteries
to sit side by side in a normal auto.
Joa
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> wrote:
\.
A 17 a.h. battery would work fine in a car. Plenty
of cranking ability. Not sure about the swap-out
your describing. Are you talking about rotating
an aux battery out of the airplane after 2 years
service into a car?
Bob . . .
---------------------------------
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
Message 6
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:40 PM 12/3/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: rmickey@ix.netcom.com
>
>
>Bob,
>
>I recieved the loadmeter and intalled it today. The Loadmeter still
>doesn't work. Did you test it before you sent it?
>
>Ross Mickey
Yes I did. Check your wiring. You may have an
error that smoked the original instrument . . . which
means the last of the Mohicans may have just bit
the dust also . . .
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: VLM-14 & LR3C-14 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:42 PM 12/3/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chuck Borne" <caborne3@charter.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>I'm utilizing these components in my RV-4's Z-1 electrical system and was
>wondering if there are any special installation considerations for
>integrating the two into the system. It seems that there may be some
>redundant functions/features between the two.
The low voltage warning lights are redundant . . . you
can leave one of them un-installed.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: two RG batteries in autos |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:41 AM 12/4/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joa Harrison
><flyasuperseven@yahoo.com>
>
>I was just figuring that if you used the battery in the plane for a year
>then you could swap it into a car and use it for two years. You would
>have *two* batteries in the car (unless like you said one would be fine)
>and then one battery would always be swapped out and the other battery
>used another year. The most life any one battery would see would be three
>years (one in the plane and two in the car).
>
>The physical size of the batteries (only about 3" deep) would allow two
>batteries to sit side by side in a normal auto.
Oh, sure. I run a 32 a.h. RG in my Safari van. I've been
getting 3-4 years service life (Discarding when 9v loading
falls below 250A after 15 seconds). You could rotate batteries
out of your airplane, running two in parallel with the oldest
battery coming out each year. I think you'll find that the
combination gives you superior cold weather cranking
performance.
Mechanics look at that itty bitty battery strapped down
in an oversized tray in my van and ask where I got
it. There's much disbelief when I tell them that the
battery gives me better performance than the original
flooded honker in spite of its diminutive size.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: snap noise when strobes fire |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:14 AM 12/4/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
>
>Thanks to `lectric Bob I was able to eliminate a whooping noise in my
>headset when strobes are onby using a separate battery at the strobe power
>supply. Next is to install the prescribed filter/capacitor from B&C. The
>snap noise is noticed much louder in the hangar. I found the snap
>diminished quite a bit after try ing the test outside the hangar so I`m
>going to order and install the filter and go fly it to monitor results.
>I`m confident the whooping noise is going to be fixed.
You may find that the snap noise is inaudible with
the engine running and/or in flight. If it's still there
and you want to tame it, let's figure out how it's getting
into the system.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Remove from list |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <greglens@verizon.net>
Please remove my name frome your e-mail list Thanks Greglens@verizon.net Recieved
your book its great!!
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Little Batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:33 PM 12/3/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Randy" <rnvcrothers@comcast.net>
>
>I have heard of RVers, the kind that stay on the ground, switching to the
>sealed Odyssey type batteries. This is partly to save some space and maybe
>some weight but primarily because of how fast they accept a charge. Is
>there something about the construction of these batteries that would allow
>them to take a charge faster than a normal lead acid battery? Or is this
>just more rumor and BS?
There's a wealth of RG battery data published on my website and on
the 'net. May I suggest you begin with the following links?
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battery.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rg_bat.html
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/battest.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/bat_thd.pdf
More information is available at:
http://www.hepi.com
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/battery/oem/chem/seal/index.html
http://www.power-sonic.com/
http://www.yuasabatteries.com/
The short answer is: "Recombinant gas, sealed lead-acid
batteries stand head and shoulders above the classic flooded
battery technologies in energy/weight ratio, internal impedance,
self discharge characteristics, cold weather performance,
and complete freedom from having to enclosed the battery
in a battery box."
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: RV-List: batteries
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:55 PM 12/3/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
>Bill,
>
>This is interesting stuff (I'm cc'ing this post to the Aeroelectric list
>since it's very relevant to the subject matter discussed there). I've
>pondered my options for a backup battery on my dual Lightspeed -8A. I've
>settled on the 16 ah Odyssey for my main battery, and this should give me
>a pretty good reserve if the alternator craps out because my essential
>loads for panel and one Lightspeed ignition are 3-4 Amps max. The backup
>battery will feed only the other ignition system and is normally charged
>from the main battery/alternator via a Schottky diode. So....odds of the
>backup battery ever being called upon to do its job of keeping the engine
>running after everything else is dead is pretty unlikely. Chances are it
>will just be dead weight for the life of the airplane. With that in mind,
>I'd like to minimize the amount of dead weight that I have to carry around
>for that improbable "just in case" scenario.
>
>The cheapest/simplest way (and recommended by Klaus Savier when using dual
>Lightspeeds) is to put in a SLA 4.5 ah backup battery. These can be had
>for $10-30 from what I've seen online, but they weigh 4-5 lbs, and should
>probably be changed every other year to make sure the capacity is there if
>you ever need it. Lithium Ion sounds appealing due to it's light weight,
>but as you pointed out, charging is not so simple (Eric Jones, are you out
>there? Weren't you working on a charging management module for Lithium
>Ions in airplanes?). Not sure about NiMH...they seem to be getting more
>popular in lots of consumer stuff. Too expensive? Charging issues??
If you want purely a standby battery that's never loaded, consider
an alkaline pack built from D sized cells. Reasonably priced, easy
to acquire. VERY long shelf life. Don't need a charging circuit.
If you plan to maintain a battery from the bus, then I'd recommend
you stay with lead-acid . . . no special charging concerns.
Are you going to have a vacuum system?
Bob . . .
Bob, nope, heavens no, not a vacuum system! The only GOOD thing about them is
that they do keep running when everything electrical goes south. I have the standard
main bus and e-bus arrangement. Right now I'm planning a VFR airplane,
if I go IFR I'll put the internal battery in the Dynon so it will keep working
if I lose electrical power and I've got a backup ICOM nav/com too. The plan
to keep the engine running is to feed one off the main battery and the other
off the backup battery (approx 4.5 ah) which will be kept charged via a Schottky
diode from the main batt/electrical system. I s'pose I could feed the second
ignition also off the main batt with a switch to feed it from some Alkalines
that would never get used except as last resort.
So...8 D-cells in series equals 12 VDC. How many ah capacity does that represent?
The Lightspeed pulls 1.2 A max, probably more like 1 A when running at cruise
rpms....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D eternally stuck in never-never-finishing-land...which sucks, but is better
than being stuck with M. Jackson's never-never land...eeeewww!
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Hackney" <lhackney@rglobal.net>
Bob,
When you do a continuity check across the diode between the main bus & E-bus, should
you get an indication of resistance? I'm showing a little spike of resistance
for a millisecond and then nothing. At first I thought that there would
be resistance one direction and not the other, no current flow. Then I thought
that this is normal because the diode doesn't know which way the current
is flowing through the multi-meter, therefore it's just doing what it was designed
to do, stop the flow of current. I have the AC side of the diode wired from
the main bus and the + side going to the E-bus. (see attached pic)
Also, on the LR3C-14, I have a jumper from # 7 to the ground stud and then a wire
from there to the firewall ground block. Is this acceptable?
Thanks in advance,
Larry
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric Ruttan" <ericruttan@chartermi.net>
> If you want purely a standby battery that's never loaded, consider
> an alkaline pack built from D sized cells. Reasonably priced, easy
> to acquire. VERY long shelf life. Don't need a charging circuit.
> If you plan to maintain a battery from the bus, then I'd recommend
> you stay with lead-acid . . . no special charging concerns.
> Bob . . .
>
Bob:
Have you considered using d cell as the sole backup for the ebus?
It seems they have great energy density(low weight), huge shelf life and
cheap.
I belive 8 d cells have about 10 AH. You could use two sets.
Would such a setup allow the safe elimination of the second alternator and
battery?
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Remove from list |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
The lists on the matronics server are designed to be
somewhat self/user administered (which helps keep them
free). I believe that there isn't a moderator who can do what
you asked. The preferred method for removing oneself from
a matronics list is to follow the directions that are listed at
the bottom of each and every message. Most noteably, have
a look at the following line:
-= UN/SUBSCRIBE: http://www.matronics.com/subscription
Regards,
Matt Prather
N34RD
do not archive
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <greglens@verizon.net>
>
> Please remove my name frome your e-mail list Thanks Greglens@verizon.net
> Recieved your book its great!!
>
>
Message 16
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:00 AM 12/4/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Hackney"
><lhackney@rglobal.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>When you do a continuity check across the diode between the main bus &
>E-bus, should you get an indication of resistance? I'm showing a little
>spike of resistance for a millisecond and then nothing. At first I
>thought that there would be resistance one direction and not the other, no
>current flow. Then I thought that this is normal because the diode
>doesn't know which way the current is flowing through the multi-meter,
>therefore it's just doing what it was designed to do, stop the flow of
>current. I have the AC side of the diode wired from the main bus and the
>+ side going to the E-bus. (see attached pic)
It depends on your ohmmeter. Many modern instruments do all
their testing at voltage levels too low to make meaningful
measurements on a diode. I believe you've wired it
correctly (as shown in:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/s401-25.jpg )
. . . so you're fine . . .
>Also, on the LR3C-14, I have a jumper from # 7 to the ground stud and then
>a wire from there to the firewall ground block. Is this acceptable?
What kind of airplane? Where is LR3 mounted? The
dual grounding terminals are primarily intended
for composite aircraft. If you've got a metal airplane,
then mounting LR3 on already grounded surface,
firewall is sufficient for the ground stud. A ground
wire from #7 to firewall ground block is good too.
Bob . . .
>Thanks in advance,
>Larry
>
>
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( A beginning of the end is marked by )
( replacement of experience and common )
( sense with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
--------------------------------------------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Wonderful product (epm.av's) that mimicks Bob's home grown grab bar solution
and adds the 2000 degree "Biotherm 100 silicone fireblock sealant" to dress
the end of "fire sleeve stuffed sleeve of fire sleeve".
I just called and they buy the VERY expensive sealant and repackage into 1.5
oz doses to sell with the kits.
Since I've already bought a grab bar (1.25 OD), I'll buy some of their
sealant to "dress" the end of the "stuffed fire sleeve". I can cut my grab
bar so only use 3/4 inch and it will be "almost" straight - straight enough
to get my throttle cable to go though OK, rather than use the full 90 degree
bend that I'd planned on (just for wires).
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Firewall Penetration
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 01:25 PM 12/4/2003 +0000, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: F1Rocket@comcast.net
> >
> >Bruce,
> >
> >Check out: http://www.epm-avcorp.com/tubeseal.html
> >
> >Randy
> >F1 Rocket
>
> Randy, thanks for posting this. I'd forgotten that
> they finished development of this product and had
> it up for sale. I've added their web address to my
> list of manufacturer's data sites.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 18
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>From: czechsix@juno.com
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>These can be had for $10-30 from what I've seen online, but they weigh 4-5
lbs, and should probably >be changed every other year to make sure the
capacity is there if you ever need it.
>Lithium Ion sounds appealing due to it's light weight, but as you pointed
out,
>charging is not so simple (Eric Jones, are you out there? Weren't you
working
>on a charging management module for Lithium Ions in airplanes?).
>--Mark Navratil
Mark, yes I've been keeping my head down somewhat and trying not to start
new products until I get more of the current ones out the door. I am
concerned that the Li-Ion batteries my be obsolete in a year or two because
of fuel cells. www.toshiba.co.jp/about/press/2003_03/pr0501.htm.
The suggestion to just use regular alkaline batteries for a backup is
probably best. I posted a device called "Start me up", that uses a short
stack of Polapulse batteries. I think they went under.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Alkaline Backup Batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:10 PM 12/4/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric Ruttan"
><ericruttan@chartermi.net>
>
>
> > If you want purely a standby battery that's never loaded, consider
> > an alkaline pack built from D sized cells. Reasonably priced, easy
> > to acquire. VERY long shelf life. Don't need a charging circuit.
> > If you plan to maintain a battery from the bus, then I'd recommend
> > you stay with lead-acid . . . no special charging concerns.
>
>
> > Bob . . .
> >
>Bob:
>Have you considered using d cell as the sole backup for the ebus?
>It seems they have great energy density(low weight), huge shelf life and
>cheap.
>I belive 8 d cells have about 10 AH. You could use two sets.
>
>Would such a setup allow the safe elimination of the second alternator and
>battery?
How do you mean "safe" . . . the dictionary says "free from harm or risk:,
"secure from threat of danger, harm, or loss". The risks associated
with getting into any vehicle are NEVER zero so I'll suggest
you are never safe. Everything we do in systems design and
operating philosophy works toward risk mitigation. We know that
the biggest single risk to aircraft is pilot distraction that
overshadows whatever skills and attention are required to
win the day when something unpredicted happens. Reliability
achieved by designing for failure tolerance which also suggests that
system components be easily tested and/or maintained with
rudimentary preventative maintenance at hopefully attractive prices.
There is no better backup for an alternator than a battery that is
routinely checked (you cranked an engine with it a short time ago)
and well maintained (capacity checks or yearly change-out). A second
alternator in the form of an SD-8 will provide 120+ watts of
power for duration of fuel aboard (difficult to match with ANY battery
less than 25 pounds) yet weighs only 4# installed and requires no
maintenance.
See http://www.duracell.com/oem/Pdf/others/ATB-5.pdf
The "15 a.h." rating is for discharge down to 0.8 volts at If we
built an array of 10 cells, we need to call end-of-life at
10.5 volts or about 1 volt per cell. I think it's safe to call
them a 10 a.h. battery but that's probably at a 10 hour
rate. If you paralleled 2 sets, 20 cells at $2.50 per cell
you'll have a $50, 20 a.h. battery that weighs 2 pounds
more than the alternator it replaces and stores only
about 1/2 the power available from the SD-8 over the same
full tank of fuel.
I've built many a battery powered device wherein an array
of soldered-together alkaline cells were my first choice
for stored energy. The battery chapter of the 'Connection
even suggests an alkaline cell array as a backup power
option. That chapter was written several years before
the e-bus and all-electric-airplane-on-a-budget came
along. The battery chapter is going to be updated at
Revision 11. It's not a "BAD" choice for backup power
in an airplane wired like a 172 . . . and fitted with
certified hardware . . . but I'll suggest that there
are more attractive combinations of energy generation
and storage available to the OBAM aircraft community.
My personal choice for reliability, cost of ownership
and simplicity of maintenance still has to be combinations
of alternators and multiple RG batteries as suggested
by the airplane's proposed mission and the builder's
budget. I reserve run-em-down-once cells for my hand-helds
and replace those OFTEN.
If we're installing ND alternators and well maintained RG
batteries, we're already talking an order of magnitude better
reliability than certified ships. I'd have to think long
and hard to justify flying a primary cell power source
to ward of evil spirits that have already taken down
the alternator and ship's normal battery. If you've
suffered this dual failure already, depending on
an array of cells that are difficult to test seems
like a poor return on investment for covering a
combination of events you shouldn't have to experience
over the lifetime of your airplane.
Bob . . .
Message 20
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"aeroelectric-list" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
This is going to both the Aeroelectric and RV-lists, in hopes of increasing
probability of someone being able to help with this issue.
I want to put cockpit audio into my video camera when doing test flying to
get pictures of instruments & audio comments I make - should greatly reduce
"head down in cockpit" time taking notes and greatly increase amount of
instrument reading data collected.
I went to Radio Shack and bought a Y adapter (p/n 274-892) with single male
plug that goes into the "audio out" plug on instrument panel. The Y adapter
has two female holes (jacks?) into which the headset audio plug goes and
also a 6' long extension cord with 1/4 male plug that goes into other hole
of Y adapter, with its other end (1/8 male) plugged into video camera's
audio jack.
When I replay cockpit recordings, the audio of the video camera is
distorted - amplitude too high coming out of intercom to be compatible with
video recorder.
- Had same problem in F-100 30 years ago when trying to record
air-to-air combat audio. Now I remember why my Avionics guys put a small
(1" or less) centertap "audio transformer" into a little box (adapter) that
cut the signal amplitude in half - worked fine.
Options:
1. I can do the 1973 version: Buy a small centertapped "audio output
transformer" (RS p/n 273-1380: 1000 ohms and 8 ohms with center tap on the
1000 ohm side?), then cut my 6' RS extension cord somewhere convenient,
strip the cut ends and solder end(s) coming from aircraft audio jack to the
end of the ???
-- I can't even visualize what I have to connect. Looks like the
raw (too big) audio signal would have to go into one end of the winding that
is NOT center-tapped and then have the other end of that winding go ____???.
Then solder the other end of cord (that goes into the video camera) to
center tap (which should have 1/2 audo amplitude of that coming into this
transformer-adapter).
2. While shopping at Radio Shack today, I saw a TV thing: "300 ohm to 75
ohm matching adapter". I'm assuming it has a transformer inside the neat
fat cable housing. Problem: It has two U connectors on one end that
obviously go onto two screws for antenna input; other end looks like a
center conductor TV cable end. That is a 4 to 1 change of ohms (300 to 75
or vice versa) - is it done with a transformer? If so, I could have a
neater adapter by modifying that gadget to have a 1/4" male plug on one end
and a 1/4" female jack on other: I'd then plug it into the Y adapter, then
plug the 6' extension cord (unmodified in this option) into it and run the
extension cord to the video camera.
- It is a $5 part and I'd need add the 1/4" plug on one end and a 1/4
inch jack on the other end.
- Looks hard to do.
If I can have some help figuring how to wire the audio transformer, then
just cutting into the extension cord (it must have two conductors in it) I'd
probably run conductor #1 into side of transformer without center-tap and
connect other cut end of conductor #1 to other end of that transformer. I'd
probably connect one end of conductor #2 to 1 end of the center-tapped side
and the other end of conductor #2 to the center tap.
- After all that, I could just wrap the transformer wires in the cut
area with electrical tape - or pot with RTV or Shoe Goo, etc.
- Which conductor in the above narrative/guess would be conductor #1?
The one that connects to the tip or body of the plug? These are molded
cable ends so I can't unscrew to see wire attachments/colors to the plugs.
Appreciate any tips.
David Carter
Message 21
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| Subject: | OAT Sensor question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Collins" <philc1@ix.netcom.com>
I'm finishing the wiring on my Long-ez. I have dual (Jeff Rose)
electronic ignitionI and have installed the optional advance meter,
which is basically an voltmeter requiring 10 millivolts per degree of
advance. I just found a temperature sensor (National Semiconductor
LM34) with an output of 10 milivolts per degree fahrenheit. It looks
rather simple to use the same device to show either degrees of advance
or OAT. I have two questions that someone in the group may be able to
help with.
1) To provide both positive and negative temperatures, the device
requires Vs (5-30 volts DC), ground, AND -Vs. I'm not sure how to
come up with negative voltage. In an electronic world I would envision
a power supply that provides both positive and negative voltages of
varying values, but I don't have anything like that in the Long-ez.
Whats the simplest way to make the sensor happy so it can tell me how
cold my toes are?
2) How sensitive are millivolt level signals to connectivity
issues. If I add a switch to the circuit to select either OAT or
Advance, will I distort the readings? Would it be feasible to have
multiple switched (rotary switch) temp sensors for more comprehensive
monitoring?
It would be desirable to add another function to the advance gauge and
get more use from the (admittedly small) panel real estate it occupies.
Any suggestions would be welcome.
Phil
IO-360 Long-ez
Chicagoland
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
See below:
David Carter wrote:
>Options:
>1. I can do the 1973 version: Buy a small center tapped "audio output
>transformer" (RS p/n 273-1380: 1000 ohms and 8 ohms with center tap on the
>1000 ohm side?), then cut my 6' RS extension cord somewhere convenient,
>strip the cut ends and solder end(s) coming from aircraft audio jack to the
>end of the ???
>
If you want to do this, and assuming that the signal level is
approximately twice what you need, you would connect the audio output
across the two outside winding taps (the two ends) and the audio input
across the center tap and the outside tap that has the ground/common
wire of the input audio. More specifically, cut into your extension
cord (which I am assuming is a shielded audio cable). Connect the
outside conductor (the shield wire) to one of the outside taps of the
transformer. Connect the inside conductor coming from the audio out to
the opposite outside tap and the inside conductor from the audio into
the video camera to the center tap. Insulate and seal with goop (or
whatever) and you are done.
>2. While shopping at Radio Shack today, I saw a TV thing: "300 ohm to 75
>ohm matching adapter". I'm assuming it has a transformer inside the neat
>fat cable housing.
>
This won't work at all. The impedances specified are measured at TV
signal frequencies (100s of MHz). The transformer would look like a
dead short at audio frequencies.
> - Which conductor in the above narrative/guess would be conductor #1?
>The one that connects to the tip or body of the plug? These are molded
>cable ends so I can't unscrew to see wire attachments/colors to the plugs.
>
If you have an ohmmeter (recommended) you could just measure, but see above.
If I were doing this, I wouldn't bother with the transformer. I would
just use a resistor or a potentiometer (start with a 10K pot) in series
with the video camera input. That is, if you cut the cable as above,
just connect each end of the center conductor to each end of the
resistor (or connect the audio output center conductor to one end of the
pot and the shield to the other end and the video camera center
conductor to the center tap of the pot with the shield to the other
shield). If you use the pot, just turn it to whatever setting gives
you good results. If you turn the pot all the way one way you have
essentially the same situation as if it wasn't there, if you turn it all
the way the other way, you will get no output - somewhere in between you
will get the output you need.
If you have other questions or if this is not clear, ask away...
Dick Tasker, 90573
Fuselage, finishing kit has arrived!
Message 23
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
A little off aircraft electronics, but while on the topic of NiMH
batteries, where would you find the best rechargeable AA pencell type
NiMH batteries? The ones in the camera stores don't list a mah rating.
I'm heading over to the Wright reenactment and I don't want to worry
about missing something because of the batteries in my digital camera.
Thanks,
Dave
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Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I'll answer my own e-mail question to both the Aeroelec & RV-lists re how to
wire the "audio out" transformer:
If I remember correctly, there will be two wires in my extension cord - one
connected to tip of plug and other to body of plug.
- Cut the ext cord and, working with cut end still connected to the
1/4" plug that goes into Y adapter - solder both wires to the
non-center-tapped side of transformer.
- Now, take the other cut end of ext cord and connect its two wires to
the other side of the transformer - one wire to an end, other wire to the
center tap. Now the audio signal going into the video camera will be 1/2 as
high an amplitude as before.
Sound correct?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
<aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
<dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> This is going to both the Aeroelectric and RV-lists, in hopes of
increasing
> probability of someone being able to help with this issue.
>
> I want to put cockpit audio into my video camera when doing test flying to
> get pictures of instruments & audio comments I make - should greatly
reduce
> "head down in cockpit" time taking notes and greatly increase amount of
> instrument reading data collected.
>
> I went to Radio Shack and bought a Y adapter (p/n 274-892) with single
male
> plug that goes into the "audio out" plug on instrument panel. The Y
adapter
> has two female holes (jacks?) into which the headset audio plug goes and
> also a 6' long extension cord with 1/4 male plug that goes into other hole
> of Y adapter, with its other end (1/8 male) plugged into video camera's
> audio jack.
>
> When I replay cockpit recordings, the audio of the video camera is
> distorted - amplitude too high coming out of intercom to be compatible
with
> video recorder.
> - Had same problem in F-100 30 years ago when trying to record
> air-to-air combat audio. Now I remember why my Avionics guys put a small
> (1" or less) centertap "audio transformer" into a little box (adapter)
that
> cut the signal amplitude in half - worked fine.
>
> Options:
> 1. I can do the 1973 version: Buy a small centertapped "audio output
> transformer" (RS p/n 273-1380: 1000 ohms and 8 ohms with center tap on
the
> 1000 ohm side?), then cut my 6' RS extension cord somewhere convenient,
> strip the cut ends and solder end(s) coming from aircraft audio jack to
the
> end of the ???
> -- I can't even visualize what I have to connect. Looks like
the
> raw (too big) audio signal would have to go into one end of the winding
that
> is NOT center-tapped and then have the other end of that winding go
____???.
> Then solder the other end of cord (that goes into the video camera) to
> center tap (which should have 1/2 audo amplitude of that coming into this
> transformer-adapter).
>
> 2. While shopping at Radio Shack today, I saw a TV thing: "300 ohm to
75
> ohm matching adapter". I'm assuming it has a transformer inside the neat
> fat cable housing. Problem: It has two U connectors on one end that
> obviously go onto two screws for antenna input; other end looks like a
> center conductor TV cable end. That is a 4 to 1 change of ohms (300 to 75
> or vice versa) - is it done with a transformer? If so, I could have a
> neater adapter by modifying that gadget to have a 1/4" male plug on one
end
> and a 1/4" female jack on other: I'd then plug it into the Y adapter,
then
> plug the 6' extension cord (unmodified in this option) into it and run the
> extension cord to the video camera.
> - It is a $5 part and I'd need add the 1/4" plug on one end and a 1/4
> inch jack on the other end.
> - Looks hard to do.
>
> If I can have some help figuring how to wire the audio transformer, then
> just cutting into the extension cord (it must have two conductors in it)
I'd
> probably run conductor #1 into side of transformer without center-tap and
> connect other cut end of conductor #1 to other end of that transformer.
I'd
> probably connect one end of conductor #2 to 1 end of the center-tapped
side
> and the other end of conductor #2 to the center tap.
> - After all that, I could just wrap the transformer wires in the cut
> area with electrical tape - or pot with RTV or Shoe Goo, etc.
> - Which conductor in the above narrative/guess would be conductor #1?
> The one that connects to the tip or body of the plug? These are molded
> cable ends so I can't unscrew to see wire attachments/colors to the plugs.
>
> Appreciate any tips.
>
> David Carter
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Sounds like the desire "simple"/"elegant" solution - no cutting and
soldering.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Boyd Braem" <bcbraem@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
> --> RV-List message posted by: Boyd Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
>
> Dave--
>
> What I did was get a "lapel" mike from RS and ran it in under one of
> the David Clark headsets (earcups)--so that anything over the radio or
> intercom would be recorded--good S/N and the headset blocked a lot of
> the the engine noise out. So, you could talk into your mike and
> narrate the filming, as needed. Works great as long as you don't get a
> "chatty" Controller on Flight Following, yeah, that'll be the
> day--wouldn't you like to tell one, just once--"Shut the f*ck up!"?
>
> Boyd.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: NiMH batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "AI Nut" <ainut@earthlink.net>
Sam's has a set of 8 with charger for about $20.
AI Nut
----- Original Message -----
From: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: NiMH batteries
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe"
<David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
>
>
> A little off aircraft electronics, but while on the topic of NiMH
> batteries, where would you find the best rechargeable AA pencell type
> NiMH batteries? The ones in the camera stores don't list a mah rating.
>
> I'm heading over to the Wright reenactment and I don't want to worry
> about missing something because of the batteries in my digital camera.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Carter
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
David: Buy a cable to fit the camera.
Buy an aircraft headset/microphone plug
Buy a 1000 ohm 1/4watt resistor
Cut the camera cable to the desired length, strip and solder the
resistor into the proper lead. Apply shrink tube
to the work area, secure leads to plug and thread the plug cover
back onto the plug.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 28
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| Subject: | Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dawson, Bill" <Bill.Dawson@pepperdine.edu>
If you have a pro audio friend you could borrow a direct box but that's
WAY overkill.
Radio Shack sells an attenuating audio cable with 1/8 inch
mini plugs on each end. You will also need a 1/8 to 1/4 inch adapter. I used
this cable to record a show for a radio station and it worked great.
You could cut off a 1/8 plug and replace it with a 1/4 but I don't know
which plug contains the resistor. RS Part #42-2152a
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon and Marge [mailto:gcomfo@tc3net.com]
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gordon and Marge"
<gcomfo@tc3net.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Carter
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
David: Buy a cable to fit the camera.
Buy an aircraft headset/microphone plug
Buy a 1000 ohm 1/4watt resistor
Cut the camera cable to the desired length, strip and solder the
resistor into the proper lead. Apply shrink tube
to the work area, secure leads to plug and thread the plug cover
back onto the plug.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 29
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| Subject: | Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Corner <jcorner@shaw.ca>
David
A few years ago I had the same problem and ended up purchasing a radio shack
device that took "line out" signal to mic level signals. It is a monoral
device that plugs directly into my camera "audio in" jack. the only drawback
is that it is a RCA connector on the opposite end. I just made an adapter
cord with a headset plug-in on one end and an RCA plug on the other. Works
great on my Sony PC5. Don't know if they are still available or not. Its
about 2 1/2" long including the RCA female plug on one end and the 1/8 plug
on the other......good luck.
Jim Corner
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
<dcarter@datarecall.net>
I'll answer my own e-mail question to both the Aeroelec & RV-lists re how to
wire the "audio out" transformer:
If I remember correctly, there will be two wires in my extension cord - one
connected to tip of plug and other to body of plug.
- Cut the ext cord and, working with cut end still connected to the
1/4" plug that goes into Y adapter - solder both wires to the
non-center-tapped side of transformer.
- Now, take the other cut end of ext cord and connect its two wires to
the other side of the transformer - one wire to an end, other wire to the
center tap. Now the audio signal going into the video camera will be 1/2 as
high an amplitude as before.
Sound correct?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
<aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
<dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> This is going to both the Aeroelectric and RV-lists, in hopes of
increasing
> probability of someone being able to help with this issue.
>
> I want to put cockpit audio into my video camera when doing test flying to
> get pictures of instruments & audio comments I make - should greatly
reduce
> "head down in cockpit" time taking notes and greatly increase amount of
> instrument reading data collected.
>
> I went to Radio Shack and bought a Y adapter (p/n 274-892) with single
male
> plug that goes into the "audio out" plug on instrument panel. The Y
adapter
> has two female holes (jacks?) into which the headset audio plug goes and
> also a 6' long extension cord with 1/4 male plug that goes into other hole
> of Y adapter, with its other end (1/8 male) plugged into video camera's
> audio jack.
>
> When I replay cockpit recordings, the audio of the video camera is
> distorted - amplitude too high coming out of intercom to be compatible
with
> video recorder.
> - Had same problem in F-100 30 years ago when trying to record
> air-to-air combat audio. Now I remember why my Avionics guys put a small
> (1" or less) centertap "audio transformer" into a little box (adapter)
that
> cut the signal amplitude in half - worked fine.
>
> Options:
> 1. I can do the 1973 version: Buy a small centertapped "audio output
> transformer" (RS p/n 273-1380: 1000 ohms and 8 ohms with center tap on
the
> 1000 ohm side?), then cut my 6' RS extension cord somewhere convenient,
> strip the cut ends and solder end(s) coming from aircraft audio jack to
the
> end of the ???
> -- I can't even visualize what I have to connect. Looks like
the
> raw (too big) audio signal would have to go into one end of the winding
that
> is NOT center-tapped and then have the other end of that winding go
____???.
> Then solder the other end of cord (that goes into the video camera) to
> center tap (which should have 1/2 audo amplitude of that coming into this
> transformer-adapter).
>
> 2. While shopping at Radio Shack today, I saw a TV thing: "300 ohm to
75
> ohm matching adapter". I'm assuming it has a transformer inside the neat
> fat cable housing. Problem: It has two U connectors on one end that
> obviously go onto two screws for antenna input; other end looks like a
> center conductor TV cable end. That is a 4 to 1 change of ohms (300 to 75
> or vice versa) - is it done with a transformer? If so, I could have a
> neater adapter by modifying that gadget to have a 1/4" male plug on one
end
> and a 1/4" female jack on other: I'd then plug it into the Y adapter,
then
> plug the 6' extension cord (unmodified in this option) into it and run the
> extension cord to the video camera.
> - It is a $5 part and I'd need add the 1/4" plug on one end and a 1/4
> inch jack on the other end.
> - Looks hard to do.
>
> If I can have some help figuring how to wire the audio transformer, then
> just cutting into the extension cord (it must have two conductors in it)
I'd
> probably run conductor #1 into side of transformer without center-tap and
> connect other cut end of conductor #1 to other end of that transformer.
I'd
> probably connect one end of conductor #2 to 1 end of the center-tapped
side
> and the other end of conductor #2 to the center tap.
> - After all that, I could just wrap the transformer wires in the cut
> area with electrical tape - or pot with RTV or Shoe Goo, etc.
> - Which conductor in the above narrative/guess would be conductor #1?
> The one that connects to the tip or body of the plug? These are molded
> cable ends so I can't unscrew to see wire attachments/colors to the plugs.
>
> Appreciate any tips.
>
> David Carter
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Braly <gwbraly@gami.com>
The best way to get audio into a video camera in flight - -
Use a good noise canceling headset.
Use a good electret microphone that is placed INSIDE the ear piece
of the noise canceling headset.
Run the microphone to the video camera.
That way - - you get all the audio - - and just enough background
engine noise for "realism". Works very very well for the training video's
that we make.
George
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David
Carter
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
<dcarter@datarecall.net>
I'll answer my own e-mail question to both the Aeroelec & RV-lists re how to
wire the "audio out" transformer:
If I remember correctly, there will be two wires in my extension cord - one
connected to tip of plug and other to body of plug.
- Cut the ext cord and, working with cut end still connected to the
1/4" plug that goes into Y adapter - solder both wires to the
non-center-tapped side of transformer.
- Now, take the other cut end of ext cord and connect its two wires to
the other side of the transformer - one wire to an end, other wire to the
center tap. Now the audio signal going into the video camera will be 1/2 as
high an amplitude as before.
Sound correct?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
<aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
<dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> This is going to both the Aeroelectric and RV-lists, in hopes of
increasing
> probability of someone being able to help with this issue.
>
> I want to put cockpit audio into my video camera when doing test flying to
> get pictures of instruments & audio comments I make - should greatly
reduce
> "head down in cockpit" time taking notes and greatly increase amount of
> instrument reading data collected.
>
> I went to Radio Shack and bought a Y adapter (p/n 274-892) with single
male
> plug that goes into the "audio out" plug on instrument panel. The Y
adapter
> has two female holes (jacks?) into which the headset audio plug goes and
> also a 6' long extension cord with 1/4 male plug that goes into other hole
> of Y adapter, with its other end (1/8 male) plugged into video camera's
> audio jack.
>
> When I replay cockpit recordings, the audio of the video camera is
> distorted - amplitude too high coming out of intercom to be compatible
with
> video recorder.
> - Had same problem in F-100 30 years ago when trying to record
> air-to-air combat audio. Now I remember why my Avionics guys put a small
> (1" or less) centertap "audio transformer" into a little box (adapter)
that
> cut the signal amplitude in half - worked fine.
>
> Options:
> 1. I can do the 1973 version: Buy a small centertapped "audio output
> transformer" (RS p/n 273-1380: 1000 ohms and 8 ohms with center tap on
the
> 1000 ohm side?), then cut my 6' RS extension cord somewhere convenient,
> strip the cut ends and solder end(s) coming from aircraft audio jack to
the
> end of the ???
> -- I can't even visualize what I have to connect. Looks like
the
> raw (too big) audio signal would have to go into one end of the winding
that
> is NOT center-tapped and then have the other end of that winding go
____???.
> Then solder the other end of cord (that goes into the video camera) to
> center tap (which should have 1/2 audo amplitude of that coming into this
> transformer-adapter).
>
> 2. While shopping at Radio Shack today, I saw a TV thing: "300 ohm to
75
> ohm matching adapter". I'm assuming it has a transformer inside the neat
> fat cable housing. Problem: It has two U connectors on one end that
> obviously go onto two screws for antenna input; other end looks like a
> center conductor TV cable end. That is a 4 to 1 change of ohms (300 to 75
> or vice versa) - is it done with a transformer? If so, I could have a
> neater adapter by modifying that gadget to have a 1/4" male plug on one
end
> and a 1/4" female jack on other: I'd then plug it into the Y adapter,
then
> plug the 6' extension cord (unmodified in this option) into it and run the
> extension cord to the video camera.
> - It is a $5 part and I'd need add the 1/4" plug on one end and a 1/4
> inch jack on the other end.
> - Looks hard to do.
>
> If I can have some help figuring how to wire the audio transformer, then
> just cutting into the extension cord (it must have two conductors in it)
I'd
> probably run conductor #1 into side of transformer without center-tap and
> connect other cut end of conductor #1 to other end of that transformer.
I'd
> probably connect one end of conductor #2 to 1 end of the center-tapped
side
> and the other end of conductor #2 to the center tap.
> - After all that, I could just wrap the transformer wires in the cut
> area with electrical tape - or pot with RTV or Shoe Goo, etc.
> - Which conductor in the above narrative/guess would be conductor #1?
> The one that connects to the tip or body of the plug? These are molded
> cable ends so I can't unscrew to see wire attachments/colors to the plugs.
>
> Appreciate any tips.
>
> David Carter
>
>
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Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Thanks to both lists (RV & Aeroelec) for the replies - looks like about 4
ways to skin this cat. I needed a little extra "push" to buy a noise
canceling headset - so my fix can cost anywhere from $1.29 (transformer) to
$3 for a lapel mic to $250-400 for the noise canceling headset + a lapel
mic.
- Let's see. . . eeny, meeney, miney, moe.
No kidding - thanks. I think this is enough good ideas for this one.
Do not archive.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Braly" <gwbraly@gami.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: George Braly <gwbraly@gami.com>
>
> The best way to get audio into a video camera in flight - -
> Use a good noise canceling headset.
> Use a good electret microphone that is placed INSIDE the ear piece
> of the noise canceling headset.
>
> Run the microphone to the video camera.
>
> That way - - you get all the audio - - and just enough background
> engine noise for "realism". Works very very well for the training video's
> that we make.
>
> George
Message 32
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Hackney" <lhackney@rglobal.net>
Robert,
I was at your seminar in Watsonville last month. I'd mentioned that I had a Falcon
turn coordinator and I'd read that they had a reputation for producing radio
noise. You said I should get some roof flashing and wrap around it 2 or 3
times to control the noise.
I'm just wondering if there's anything lighter, simpler that would work? How about
aluminum foil? Or some kind of duct insulation or even sound proofing material?
Thanks,
Larry
Message 33
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Hackney" <lhackney@rglobal.net>
Robert,
Could you recommend a cheaper avionics cooling fan than the one's in the Spruce
catalog? Prices range from $129 up to $272?
Larry
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: NiMH batteries |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:16 PM 12/4/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe"
><David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
>
>
>A little off aircraft electronics, but while on the topic of NiMH
>batteries, where would you find the best rechargeable AA pencell type
>NiMH batteries? The ones in the camera stores don't list a mah rating.
>
>I'm heading over to the Wright reenactment and I don't want to worry
>about missing something because of the batteries in my digital camera.
Check out
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=45096&item=3062108120
I've got 32 of these cells coming in for specific job. I'll be running
some capacity tests on them. If they're even close to 2200 maH, these
are a deal.
Bob . . .
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