Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:12 AM - SLA battery Problems (Ian)
2. 06:32 AM - Re: SLA battery Problems (Ageless Wings)
3. 06:53 AM - Re: SLA battery Problems (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:02 AM - Voltage Regulators (Boddicker)
5. 07:42 AM - Re: Transponder coax choice (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:15 AM - Re: Voltage Regulators (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 11:22 AM - Re: Voltage Regulators (Mark Steitle)
8. 03:04 PM - Re: SLA battery Problems (Joel Harding)
9. 03:05 PM - Re: Voltage Regulators (Boddicker)
10. 03:11 PM - Re: Voltage Regulators (Boddicker)
11. 06:59 PM - SD 8 Alternator wiring (hollandm)
12. 07:47 PM - Simple electronics question (Phil Collins)
13. 08:45 PM - Re: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera (David Carter)
14. 11:19 PM - Re: Simple electronics question (Jerzy Krasinski)
Message 1
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| Subject: | SLA battery Problems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ian " <jabiru22@yahoo.com.au>
Hi all, I have a backup 7AH 12V SLA (sealed Lead acid battery) and it
uses a smart charger.
It was sitting on the shelf the other day (after charging) and the next
morning I found a pool of clear liquid around it?
Anyone have any idea what it was?
Probably about half a cup. And did not react with bicarb soda.
Thanks
Ian
Message 2
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| Subject: | SLA battery Problems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ageless Wings" <harley@agelesswings.com>
Mornin', Ian...
Just a WAG...but was it stored in a cold or cool unheated space just after
it was charged? You just said "on the shelf".
If so, and it was also very humid, like immediately following rain or snow,
it may just be condensation that formed on the side of the warm battery in
the cool, damp air.
Harley
|-----Original Message-----
|From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
|[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ian
|Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 7:11 AM
|To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
|Subject: AeroElectric-List: SLA battery Problems
|
|
|--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ian " <jabiru22@yahoo.com.au>
|
|
|Hi all, I have a backup 7AH 12V SLA (sealed Lead acid battery) and it
|uses a smart charger.
|
|It was sitting on the shelf the other day (after charging) and the next
|morning I found a pool of clear liquid around it?
|
|Anyone have any idea what it was?
|
|Probably about half a cup. And did not react with bicarb soda.
|
|Thanks
|
|Ian
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: SLA battery Problems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:10 PM 12/9/2003 +1100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ian " <jabiru22@yahoo.com.au>
>
>
>Hi all, I have a backup 7AH 12V SLA (sealed Lead acid battery) and it
>uses a smart charger.
>
>It was sitting on the shelf the other day (after charging) and the next
>morning I found a pool of clear liquid around it?
>
>Anyone have any idea what it was?
>
>Probably about half a cup. And did not react with bicarb soda.
SLA batteries have so little liquid within that in no
way could the moisture you observed have come from the
battery. You can poke a hole in the bottom of all the
cells and liquid will not run from the battery.
My guess is that it was subjected to a humidity spike
and while the air may have been relatively warm, the
battery was sitting at or below dew point and the
water was condensate.
Take 4 ounces of water and pour out onto a flat surface.
Compare spread-area of the water with what you observed
around your battery. I suspect you'll find that you can
generate the same size spread-area with less than an
ounce of water.
The non-reaction with bicarb was an excellent data point
and another strong clue as to the read nature of
the phenomenon that produced the water.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Voltage Regulators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Boddicker <trumanst@netins.net>
Bob,
I read your book the first time.
Highlited the second time.
Why do you recomend against internal voltage regulators?
How would one remove the internal regulator.
Thanks,
Kevin
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder coax choice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>Dear Bob:
>
>I am building a Rans S6S. My avionics include an ICOM transceiver and a >King
Mode C transponder. The antennas are about 12 feet from the panel. >Do you think
it is OK for me to use RG 58U feed line or should I go to a >lower loss variety?
Loss isn't the biggest issue. RG-58 is a WWII veteran that
needs to be retired. Its materials and design are of that
era (single layer tinned braid, polyethylene inner insulation,
PVC outer insulation. Modern coax like RG-400 or RG-142 will
have double outer conductor that is silver plated, outer
insulation of FEP and inner insulation of PTFE . . . both
are modern, high temperature chemical resistant materials.
A side benefit is lower loss but superior materials and
construction is what you're really looking for.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:07 AM 12/9/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Boddicker <trumanst@netins.net>
>
>Bob,
>I read your book the first time.
>Highlited the second time.
>Why do you recomend against internal voltage regulators?
>How would one remove the internal regulator.
You can leave the regulator in, but add ov protection
as shown in figure Z-24
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
A further benefit can be realized with membership on
the list. There are lots of technically capable folks
on the list who can offer suggestions too. You can
join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Steitle <msteitle@mail.utexas.edu>
Kevin,
What type of alternator are you trying to modify? I converted two ND 55
amp Geo units to external regulator.
Mark S.
Austin, TX
>How would one remove the internal regulator.
>Thanks,
>Kevin
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: SLA battery Problems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joel Harding <cajole76@ispwest.com>
Bob,
I am using a 17 a h SLA battery to power my panel as I check out my
instruments. I hooked an automotive charger with an automatic taper
off feature to the battery, and measured charge voltage at over 16
volts, that tapered down to around 14 within just a few minutes.
There was no amp reading on the meter, so it was somewhere below 1 amp.
I called the distributor but could find no one who could help.
Question: Will that voltage damage the battery?
Joel Harding
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Boddicker <trumanst@netins.net>
on 12/9/03 10:14 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III at bob.nuckolls@cox.net wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 09:07 AM 12/9/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Boddicker <trumanst@netins.net>
>>
>> Bob,
>> I read your book the first time.
>> Highlited the second time.
>> Why do you recomend against internal voltage regulators?
>> How would one remove the internal regulator.
>
> You can leave the regulator in, but add ov protection
> as shown in figure Z-24
>
> I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
> to continue this and similar discussions.
> Thanks!
>
> Bob . . .
>
I am on the list. That is how I sent this to you.
The reason I asked about your recomendation to take out the internal VR, is
that it looks to be easier to wire the whole package if I use the LRC3-14.
As opposed to the seperate parts listed in Z-24. Just trying to get an idea
why you have a distaste for the internal VR. Trying to justify the
additional cost.
Thanks,
Kevin
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Voltage Regulators |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Boddicker <trumanst@netins.net>
Mark,
I think that is what I have. Will need to remove the engine to get the
numbers. I have a Tri Q200, Starter, Mags, Alt back in a the whole. Will let
you know.
Thanks
Kevin
on 12/9/03 1:22 PM, Mark Steitle at msteitle@mail.utexas.edu wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Steitle
> <msteitle@mail.utexas.edu>
>
> Kevin,
> What type of alternator are you trying to modify? I converted two ND 55
> amp Geo units to external regulator.
>
> Mark S.
> Austin, TX
>
>
>> How would one remove the internal regulator.
>> Thanks,
>> Kevin
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | SD 8 Alternator wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
I'm installing a Vans 60amp internally regulated alternator with a B&C SD8 as a
backup. The printed insert sent with the B&C indicate that a over voltage protection
isn't necessary with this type of alternator since "regenerative over-voltage
failures are not possible". If this is true then there would appear
to be a contradiction with DWG 504-500, also from B&C which shows a crowbar OVM
in this system along with S8005-1.
My question: Other than the PMR1 regulator and filter capacitor is there any specific
reason to add OVM protection to the SD8, as a standby alternator?
Thanks
Message 12
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| Subject: | Simple electronics question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Collins" <philc1@ix.netcom.com>
I have what I think is a simple electronics question, but being an
electronics simpleton I don't have the simple answer. Any suggestions
or direction for further study would be appreciated.
I want to use National Semiconductor LM34 temperature sensor to create
an OAT display in my cockpit. So far I've hooked up the sensor and
tested it in the freezer, in front of a Halogen light and in ice water
and have recorded temps on my OAT display of +5 to +165F. The temp
readings seem accurate.
The sensor is a three wire package that hooks to ground, power (Vs) +5
to +20 VDC and to the display. It puts out 10mv per degree fahrenheit
with a current draw of 90mA... so far so good.
In order to get readings in the below zero fahrenheit range the sensor
output lead must be connected via a resistor to -Vs with a current flow
of approx 20mA. I'm in search of -Vs, and my novice mind is stuck.
From my high school ohms law, it would seem that I could create a
circuit containing two 50 ohm resistors in series with a voltage drop of
7 volts across each, then use the center connection as "ground" for the
purpose of the sensor and call the other two terminals +7 and -7VDC. (I
haven't tried to size the resistor tieing the sensor lead to -Vs (or in
this case -7VDC))
Even with the little I know, it seems that this circuit would be
wasteful and there should be a more effective way to power the simple
OAT sensor. Should I be looking at voltage regulator chips, a full power
supply, or should I just do the resistor thing, wrap it all with shrink
wrap and never speak of the inefficiencies lurking in the OAT circuit?
I'm sure by now, I've exposed my total ignorance on the subject, so I'll
close and hope for guidance or reading suggestions from wiser minds.
Thanks,
Phil
Message 13
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<rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I bought the "attenuating audio cable" as suggested and it worked fine
Saturday.
"Thanks" to all on both lists for the excellent suggestions. This one seems
to be the easiest to implement and best value. If I'd had a small mick to
put in earcup, that would have also been a "top pick".
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
> Try ...
>
>
> 42-2152
>
> 6.5' Attenuating Dubbing Cord
>
> $3.99
> ... FEATURES: Connects earphone jack from radio, cassette or CD to
> recorder's input or mic jack 1/8" phone plug on both ends Length
> 6-1/2-feet
>
> Radio Shack
> 42-2152
>
>
> James
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Carter
> > Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 5:33 PM
> > To: RV-list; aeroelectric-list
> > Subject: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
> >
>
>
> >[SNIP]
>
> >
> > When I replay cockpit recordings, the audio of the video camera is
> > distorted - amplitude too high coming out of intercom to be
> > compatible with
> > video recorder.
> > Appreciate any tips.
> >
> > David Carter
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Simple electronics question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski@direcway.com>
Phil Collins wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Collins" <philc1@ix.netcom.com>
>
>
>I have what I think is a simple electronics question, but being an
>electronics simpleton I don't have the simple answer. Any suggestions
>or direction for further study would be appreciated.
>
>I want to use National Semiconductor LM34 temperature sensor to create
>an OAT display in my cockpit. So far I've hooked up the sensor and
>tested it in the freezer, in front of a Halogen light and in ice water
>and have recorded temps on my OAT display of +5 to +165F. The temp
>readings seem accurate.
>
>The sensor is a three wire package that hooks to ground, power (Vs) +5
>to +20 VDC and to the display. It puts out 10mv per degree fahrenheit
>with a current draw of 90mA... so far so good.
>
>In order to get readings in the below zero fahrenheit range the sensor
>output lead must be connected via a resistor to -Vs with a current flow
>of approx 20mA. I'm in search of -Vs, and my novice mind is stuck.
>>From my high school ohms law, it would seem that I could create a
>circuit containing two 50 ohm resistors in series with a voltage drop of
>7 volts across each, then use the center connection as "ground" for the
>purpose of the sensor and call the other two terminals +7 and -7VDC. (I
>haven't tried to size the resistor tieing the sensor lead to -Vs (or in
>this case -7VDC))
>
>Even with the little I know, it seems that this circuit would be
>wasteful and there should be a more effective way to power the simple
>OAT sensor. Should I be looking at voltage regulator chips, a full power
>supply, or should I just do the resistor thing, wrap it all with shrink
>wrap and never speak of the inefficiencies lurking in the OAT circuit?
>I'm sure by now, I've exposed my total ignorance on the subject, so I'll
>close and hope for guidance or reading suggestions from wiser minds.
>
>Thanks,
>Phil
>
Phil,
Something must be wrong there. It is hard to believe that this circuit
draws 90mA, they typically take very little current, a small fraction
of milliamper with no load, and the maximum current allowed to draw
from them is only several mA . At such currents it does not make sense
to call the circuit "wastefull", unless you plan to use a tiny watch
battery as a power source. Could you please check the current and
connections again? What meter do you use on the output i.e. what is its
internal resistance? Maybe you overload the circuit with a low
resistance meter. Does the sensor get hot?
At 90 mA and 5V supply voltage you would be generayting almost 1/2 watt
in the tiny sensor, and that should make it quite hot.
Jerzy
>
>
>
>
>
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