Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:23 AM - Re: Simple electronics question (Trampas)
2. 05:29 AM - cabling (Gary Casey)
3. 05:54 AM - Simple Electronics Question-Negative Voltage (Eric M. Jones)
4. 06:29 AM - Re: cabling (Ron Raby)
5. 07:03 AM - Re: cabling (DJB6A@cs.com)
6. 07:15 AM - Fw: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera (David Carter)
7. 07:23 AM - Re: cabling (Dan Checkoway)
8. 07:30 AM - Re: cabling (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:54 AM - Re: Substitute for Shoo Goo (LarryRobertHelming)
10. 08:09 AM - Re: Simple electronics question (Mark Steitle)
11. 08:19 AM - Re: Cabling (Eric M. Jones)
12. 08:41 AM - Quality of Lead Acid Batteries?Cheap Vs Expensive (David A. Leonard)
13. 08:53 AM - Re: Re: Cabling (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 09:00 AM - Re: cabling (John Schroeder)
15. 09:03 AM - Re: SD 8 Alternator wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 09:03 AM - (Phil Collins)
17. 09:51 AM - Re: Re: Cabling (John R)
18. 10:08 AM - Re: Quality of Lead Acid Batteries?Cheap Vs (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 10:22 AM - stuff on eBay (czechsix@juno.com)
20. 10:41 AM - Re: Cabling (Eric M. Jones)
21. 11:17 AM - (Jerzy Krasinski)
22. 12:25 PM - Re: Re: Cabling (Chad Robinson)
23. 01:15 PM - carburetor icing (Eric M. Jones)
24. 04:07 PM - Re: (Neville Kilford)
25. 04:56 PM - Re: Pitch Trim Motor Slowdown (J. Oberst)
26. 05:06 PM - Radio Shack Relays (Brett Ferrell)
27. 06:07 PM - Re: Radio Shack Relays (Scott Richardson)
28. 06:10 PM - Re: Re: Cabling (Dan Branstrom)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Simple electronics question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
Phil,
Check out the two following sensors
LM335
LM61
These should be easier to interface to for negative temperatures using a
single positive power supply.
Of course the simplest solution is buy a temperature monitor from radio
shack or target that runs on an 'AA' battery and has an LCD.
Of course if you are trying to build a temperature monitor as a fun
experiment, then enjoy.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil
Collins
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Simple electronics question
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Collins"
<philc1@ix.netcom.com>
I have what I think is a simple electronics question, but being an
electronics simpleton I don't have the simple answer. Any suggestions
or direction for further study would be appreciated.
I want to use National Semiconductor LM34 temperature sensor to create
an OAT display in my cockpit. So far I've hooked up the sensor and
tested it in the freezer, in front of a Halogen light and in ice water
and have recorded temps on my OAT display of +5 to +165F. The temp
readings seem accurate.
The sensor is a three wire package that hooks to ground, power (Vs) +5
to +20 VDC and to the display. It puts out 10mv per degree fahrenheit
with a current draw of 90mA... so far so good.
In order to get readings in the below zero fahrenheit range the sensor
output lead must be connected via a resistor to -Vs with a current flow
of approx 20mA. I'm in search of -Vs, and my novice mind is stuck.
From my high school ohms law, it would seem that I could create a
circuit containing two 50 ohm resistors in series with a voltage drop of
7 volts across each, then use the center connection as "ground" for the
purpose of the sensor and call the other two terminals +7 and -7VDC. (I
haven't tried to size the resistor tieing the sensor lead to -Vs (or in
this case -7VDC))
Even with the little I know, it seems that this circuit would be
wasteful and there should be a more effective way to power the simple
OAT sensor. Should I be looking at voltage regulator chips, a full power
supply, or should I just do the resistor thing, wrap it all with shrink
wrap and never speak of the inefficiencies lurking in the OAT circuit?
I'm sure by now, I've exposed my total ignorance on the subject, so I'll
close and hope for guidance or reading suggestions from wiser minds.
Thanks,
Phil
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
What is the best source for multi-wire cables? I am specifically wondering
about cables for my rudder and elevator trim tab servos, 5 wires each. 24
gage? That appears to be what the servos come with? what about small,
sealed connectors for these cables? Recommendations anyone?
Gary Casey
Lancair ES
Message 3
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| Subject: | Simple Electronics Question-Negative Voltage |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Phil,
There a lot of ways to do this in DC circuits. Imagine your power supply
charging up a capacitor. When the cap is full of charge, the right switches
are thrown and now the cap is upside down. Little ICs can this this with
aplomb.
See: http://www.maxim-ic.com/appnotes.cfm/appnote_number/782/ln/en
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
"I want to die peacefully in my sleep like my father did....
Not screaming in terror like the passengers in his airplane."
--anonymous
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
Gary
Try some of these companies. alpha, belden, carol,
http://bwcecom.belden.com/
http://www.alphawire.com/
http://www.generalcable.com/
Regards
Ron Raby
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: cabling
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey"
<glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
> What is the best source for multi-wire cables? I am specifically
wondering
> about cables for my rudder and elevator trim tab servos, 5 wires each. 24
> gage? That appears to be what the servos come with? what about small,
> sealed connectors for these cables? Recommendations anyone?
>
> Gary Casey
> Lancair ES
>
>
Message 5
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
Gary,
You can buy it from Ray Allen Company the servo manufacturers, it isn't cheap
somewhere around $1/ft http://www.rayallencompany.com/
Dave Burnham
> What is the best source for multi-wire cables? I am specifically
wondering
> about cables for my rudder and elevator trim tab servos, 5 wires each. 24
> gage? That appears to be what the servos come with? what about small,
> sealed connectors for these cables? Recommendations anyone?
>
> Gary Casey
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fw: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
This bounced last night - fwding to Aeroelec List only this morning.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
<rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> I bought the "attenuating audio cable" as suggested and it worked fine
> Saturday.
>
> "Thanks" to all on both lists for the excellent suggestions. This one
seems
> to be the easiest to implement and best value. If I'd had a small mick to
> put in earcup, that would have also been a "top pick".
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
<james@nextupventures.com>
> >
> > Try ...> > 42-2152
> >
> > 6.5' Attenuating Dubbing Cord $3.99
> > ... FEATURES: Connects earphone jack from radio, cassette or CD to
> > recorder's input or mic jack 1/8" phone plug on both ends Length
> > 6-1/2-feet
> >
> > Radio Shack
> > 42-2152
> >
> > James> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Carter
> > > Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2003 5:33 PM
> > > To: RV-list; aeroelectric-list
> > > Subject: RV-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to videocamera
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>>
> > >[SNIP]
>
> > > When I replay cockpit recordings, the audio of the video camera is
> > > distorted - amplitude too high coming out of intercom to be
> > > compatible with
> > > video recorder.
> > > Appreciate any tips.
> > >
> > > David Carter
Message 7
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Ray Allen Co. sells 5-conductor wire specifically for use with their servos.
http://www.rayallencompany.com/products/accessories.html
On that page see WC2...5 WIRE TEFLON INSTALLATION CABLE
$1 per foot
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: cabling
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey"
<glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
> What is the best source for multi-wire cables? I am specifically
wondering
> about cables for my rudder and elevator trim tab servos, 5 wires each. 24
> gage? That appears to be what the servos come with? what about small,
> sealed connectors for these cables? Recommendations anyone?
>
> Gary Casey
> Lancair ES
>
>
Message 8
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:28 AM 12/10/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
>What is the best source for multi-wire cables? I am specifically wondering
>about cables for my rudder and elevator trim tab servos, 5 wires each. 24
>gage? That appears to be what the servos come with? what about small,
>sealed connectors for these cables? Recommendations anyone?
Commercial offerings will be irradiated PVC wires at best
and you'll probably have to buy 100' minimum to get what you
need. Just 'cause the actuator is fitted with 24AWG wires
(IMHO a poor design choice) doesn't mean you're obligated
to wire the rest of the system with an equally poor choice
of wire. If it were my airplane, I'd run 5 strands of 22AWG
22759/16 along with any other wires that are headed that
way and bundle 'em up with string or tye-wraps. A connector
at the actuator is easy. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Substitute for Shoo Goo |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I found some E6000 in the local Wal-mart yesterday in the fabrics dept. Our
local Jo-Ann Fabrics did not have it.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Landucci" <lllanducci@tds.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Substitute for Shoo Goo
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Larry Landucci
<lllanducci@tds.net>
>
> In our area (Madison, WI) the E6000 adhesive is available at Jo-Ann
> Fabrics.
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Simple electronics question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Steitle <msteitle@mail.utexas.edu>
Phil,
First a caveat, I'm no EE. I know enough about electronics to be
dangerous. But I too am interested in using such a device for temperature
measurement and was surfing the web and found this article. It shows how
to do what you are proposing with an LM34 by adding one resistor and two
diodes to the circuit. The url is
http://www.pigselectronics.com/graphics/lm34app.pdf Looks like a simple
solution to your problem. Hope this helps.
Mark S.
>I want to use National Semiconductor LM34 temperature sensor to create
>an OAT display in my cockpit. So far I've hooked up the sensor and
>tested it in the freezer, in front of a Halogen light and in ice water
>and have recorded temps on my OAT display of +5 to +165F. The temp
>readings seem accurate.
>
>Thanks,
>Phil
>
>
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Cat5e-- you can get this in plenum grade easily.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
- - Leonard Cohen
Message 12
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| Subject: | Quality of Lead Acid Batteries?Cheap Vs Expensive |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David A. Leonard" <dleonar1@maine.rr.com>
At Wal-Mart, they sell batteries of two price/warranty grades. For the
same application, there will be a $40.00 and a $60.00 unit. The warranty
is twice as long on the expensive one, and the 'reserve capacity'
measurement is slightly higher on the high end battery.
Anyone care to comment on the relative benefits, aside from the fact that
the higher priced one seems to have 10% or so more amp hours?
Any thoughts on the cost effectiveness?
Dave Leonard (Cheapskate at large!)
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:24 AM 12/10/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
>Cat5e-- you can get this in plenum grade easily.
UGH!!!! 24AWG SOLID WIRE in an airplane???????
Bob . . .
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Hi Gary -
Email Deb Sullivan and get a quote. I priced 22 awg, 5 wire and got a
quote of $.94 per foot. This seems a bit high, but they have the best
prices, by far, for wire that I have been able to find. Maybe it is
because they have to order it and quote a 4 week delivery.
We picked up some 24awg shielded 2 wire and 3 wire (100' of each) at the
fly market at Sun N Fun for a pretty good price and plan to use that -
laced together in a harness.
Some folks have used the small connectors used by the RC airplane folks.
I'd shrink tube the connection after you get it assembled and checked out.
Cheers,
John
> What is the best source for multi-wire cables? I am specifically
> wondering about cables for my rudder and elevator trim tab servos, 5
> wires each. 24 gage? That appears to be what the servos come with?
> what about small, sealed connectors for these cables? Recommendations
> anyone?
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: SD 8 Alternator wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:56 PM 12/9/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
>I'm installing a Vans 60amp internally regulated alternator with a B&C SD8
>as a backup. The printed insert sent with the B&C indicate that a over
>voltage protection isn't necessary with this type of alternator since
>"regenerative over-voltage failures are not possible". If this is true
>then there would appear to be a contradiction with DWG 504-500, also from
>B&C which shows a crowbar OVM in this system along with S8005-1.
That sounds like an old installation sheet . . . OV
protection is ALWAYS optional, it just depends on
how you perceive risk. I'm unaware of any SD-8
alternator rectifier/regulators that have been
returned for ov failure. I'll forward this to
B&C also in case there have been incidents I'm
unaware of.
I AM aware of failures that can occur in components
of the SD-8 that will produce un-controlled, full output
from the alternator. So, if it were my airplane and
in spite of the stellar record of the SD-8 (and
alternators with built in regulators) I'd add
ov protection.
>My question: Other than the PMR1 regulator and filter capacitor is there
>any specific reason to add OVM protection to the SD8, as a standby alternator?
None other than the fact that risk of ov condition
is small but not zero. You can decide for yourself
whether or not you'll take this "vaccine" . . .
Bob . . .
Message 16
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Collins" <philc1@ix.netcom.com>
What a great group! Thanks for your help!
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski
--> krasinski@direcway.com
> Something must be wrong there. It is hard to believe that this
circuit
> draws 90mA, they typically take very little current, a small
fraction
> of milliamper with no load, and the maximum current allowed to draw
> from them is only several mA .
Exactly Jerzy, a thousand times wrong! The sensor uses 90 microamperes.
That was my mistake and I agree, at that level it can't be called
wasteful.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
> Check out the two following sensors
> LM335
> LM61
>
> These should be easier to interface to for negative temperatures
using a single positive power supply.
>
> Of course the simplest solution is buy a temperature monitor from
radio shack or target that runs on an 'AA'
> battery >and has an LCD.
>
> Of course if you are trying to build a temperature monitor as a fun
experiment, then enjoy.
Thanks Trampas, if I can't make the LM34 work I'll try the LM61. The
LM34 is calibrated to output 10mV per degree fahrenheit directly (500mV
= 50 degrees F). My brain still works in degrees F :-) And yes, it's
an experiment to see if I can use the existing electronic ignition
advance display (10mV/degree) on my panel to also display OAT.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Steitle
--> <msteitle@mail.utexas.edu>
> this article... shows how to do what you are proposing with an LM34
by adding one resistor and two
> diodes to the circuit. The url is
http://www.pigselectronics.com/graphics/lm34app.pdf Looks like
> a simple solution to your problem. Hope this helps.
Excellent! I'm not sure I completely understand the two diodes, but
you're right it's exactly what I would like to do. Thanks Mark
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
--> <emjones@charter.net>
>There a lot of ways to do this in DC circuits. Imagine your power
supply charging up a capacitor. When the cap is
> full of charge, the right switches are thrown and now the cap is
upside down. Little ICs can this this with
> aplomb.
>
> See: http://www.maxim-ic.com/appnotes.cfm/appnote_number/782/ln/en
Neat solution! I like the learning that comes from this whole building
process. Without the help of the knowledgable people in this group, much
of it wouldn't be possible. Now that I understand the current
requirements better, I think I can resolve the issue. If nothing else
works I can use a 9V battery for -VS.
Thanks to everyone!
Phil
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John R <jrourke@allied-computer.com>
It's available stranded, also...
Good for non thermocouple sensors, I'd think...
-John
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>At 11:24 AM 12/10/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>>
>>Cat5e-- you can get this in plenum grade easily.
>>
>>
>
> UGH!!!! 24AWG SOLID WIRE in an airplane???????
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Quality of Lead Acid Batteries?Cheap Vs |
Expensive
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Expensive
At 11:40 AM 12/10/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David A. Leonard"
><dleonar1@maine.rr.com>
>
>At Wal-Mart, they sell batteries of two price/warranty grades. For the
>same application, there will be a $40.00 and a $60.00 unit. The warranty
>is twice as long on the expensive one, and the 'reserve capacity'
>measurement is slightly higher on the high end battery.
>
>Anyone care to comment on the relative benefits, aside from the fact that
>the higher priced one seems to have 10% or so more amp hours?
>Any thoughts on the cost effectiveness?
Do you plan to do periodic capacity checks so that you
can track the battery's real capability? If not, then
debating the quality, longevity, warranty etc is a mute point.
Yearly change-out of a cheap battery will get you about
the best system reliability with a minimum of
effort and minimal test equipment requirements. If
you're going to buy a $100 battery and become obligated
to stretch it to the limits, then you need to decide
what your limits really are and acquire a means by
which you KNOW then they are reached. 9 out of 10
airplane owners don't want to do this, and half
of those that do probably won't do it anyhow . . . so
their $100 battery will get treated just like the
average spam-can battery . . .
Check chapter 17 again.
Bob . . .
Message 19
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
I have a few things on eBay if anyone's interested. If the link doesn't work just
search on the item number. If you have questions please contact me OFF LIST.
Thanks and Do Not Archive!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing....
Turn Coordinator, item #2447588004
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2447588004
Andair Mini Gascolator, item #2447590842
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2447590842
Bendix Mags, item #2447592770
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2447592770
Message 20
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>>> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
>>Cat5e-- you can get this in plenum grade easily.
> UGH!!!! 24AWG SOLID WIRE in an airplane???????
> Bob . . .
Yeh....But. You can easily get the stranded stuff. Besides, surely there
must be some AWG size below which stranding makes little sense? I don't
believe a test between stranded Cat5e and solid would show any difference.
Eric
(do not archive)
Message 21
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski@direcway.com>
I just found a nice and not too expensive humidity sensor.
It has humidity range 0 - 100% with voltage output of 1V to 3.7V
respectively.
It is fast, it recovers from 150 hours of condensation within 10 seconds.
Three wires: 5V, ground and output .
Dimensions roughly 1/2" x 2".
It is Humirel model HM 1500 and sold by Digikey, $30 . I have already
ordered it.
Is anybody aware of a publication showing carburator icing range of
humidity vs. temperature. I am sure that there was research on that
topic and a table like that must be somewhere. So far I did not find it.
Thank you,
Jerzy
>
>
Message 22
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Robinson <crobinson@rfgonline.com>
Eric M. Jones wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
>>>AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>>>>AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
> <emjones@charter.net>
>
>>>Cat5e-- you can get this in plenum grade easily.
>>
>> UGH!!!! 24AWG SOLID WIRE in an airplane???????
>> Bob . . .
>
>
> Yeh....But. You can easily get the stranded stuff. Besides, surely there
> must be some AWG size below which stranding makes little sense? I don't
> believe a test between stranded Cat5e and solid would show any difference.
Useless trivia: I once saw 24AWG stranded that was actually an extremely thin,
flat band of copper wrapped around a (nylon?) string as its core. Odd stuff,
and the devil's mother to solder onto. Don't think this was for special
surface-conduction properties or anything, it was just mass-produced cheap
junk. Oddest thing I ever saw (in terms of raw wire, anyway).
I suppose this question really comes down to what you have on hand. I asked
this very question of Bob a few months ago because I happen to HAVE about a
thousand feet of plenum-rated CAT5e, good stuff that I used to install when I
ran network cabling. I think the consensus at that time was if you had to buy
something, buy the "right" thing, but it wasn't going to cause significant harm.
Regards,
Chad
(do not archive)
Message 23
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| Subject: | carburetor icing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>From: Jerzy Krasinski (krasinski@direcway.com)
>Is anybody aware of a publication showing carburator icing range of
>humidity vs. temperature. I am sure that there was research on that
>topic and a table like that must be somewhere. So far I did not find it.
Well not when you spell it like that! Search "Carburetor Icing" on the NACA
technical report server. Lots of stuff.
Eric
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: ectric-List: |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
Jerzy,
Have a look at:
http://www.caa.co.uk/docs/224/ssl14.pdf
It's the CAA's publication, for GA pilots, about icing and has the chart you
describe.
Hope this helps.
Nev
--
Jodel D150 in progress.
UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerzy Krasinski" <krasinski@direcway.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski
<krasinski@direcway.com>
>
> I just found a nice and not too expensive humidity sensor.
> It has humidity range 0 - 100% with voltage output of 1V to 3.7V
> respectively.
> It is fast, it recovers from 150 hours of condensation within 10 seconds.
> Three wires: 5V, ground and output .
> Dimensions roughly 1/2" x 2".
> It is Humirel model HM 1500 and sold by Digikey, $30 . I have already
> ordered it.
>
> Is anybody aware of a publication showing carburator icing range of
> humidity vs. temperature. I am sure that there was research on that
> topic and a table like that must be somewhere. So far I did not find it.
>
> Thank you,
> Jerzy
>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Pitch Trim Motor Slowdown |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
Bob, the motor drives my pitch trim, and it is too fast for fine control.
Your suggestion to put a power supply on the motor and measure current and
speed is good; I'll do it next time I have the rear bulkheads out. I'll
also test to see if the torque is adequate with lower voltages. Thanks.
Jim Oberst
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Pitch Trim Motor Slowdown
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 10:34 PM 12/5/2003 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Oberst"
> ><joberst@cox-internet.com>
> >
> >I previously posted a question on how to cut down the speed of my 12V DC
> >pitch trim motor. I got one response, which suggested I use the the
> >Matronics Mark III adjustable speed governor. I have two issues with
> >this... first, it is unclear to me what the current capacity of this unit
is
> >(does anyone know that? - I am not using MAC servos)... second, it looks
> >like a bit of overkill, as I don't want adjustable speed,
ground-actuation,
> >multiple switches - just a permanent slowdown to one speed.
> >
> >Can anyone explain to me what the design goal is for a DC motor slowdown
> >circuit? I've been told that a simple dropping resistor could cause the
> >motor to overheat. Also, I don't want to do something to reduce the
torque.
> >Will a fixed voltage regulator do it, or does it need to be pulsed, or??
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Jim Oberst
>
> You got the long answer, let's look at your specific application.
> What motor do you want to control and what system does it drive?
> How have you deduced that you'll need to control the speed of this
> motor? Have you put a power supply on the motor to see what
> new voltage and current are required?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Radio Shack Relays |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brett Ferrell" <bferrell@123mail.net>
What's the best way to secure these Radio Shack Relays (275-218)? I've picked
up a few of these with the plug in bases for my speed brake control, etc., and
I was expecting the base to have some tabs to screw down to the aircraft or something....
Brett
Message 27
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| Subject: | Radio Shack Relays |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Richardson" <scott_m_richardson@sbcglobal.net>
Brett,
I just bought a couple of similar relays (275-206) from Radio Shack and
they came with a socket base that pops into a hole of appropriate
material.
The base has a spring wire keeper to keep the relay plugged in. I
intend
to mount mine to the outside of a small Aluminum hobby box and wire
everything up inside. The -206's are smaller (3A if memory serves), but
I'd be surprised if RS didn't have a similar socket base for yours.
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brett
Ferrell
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Radio Shack Relays
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brett Ferrell"
--> <bferrell@123mail.net>
What's the best way to secure these Radio Shack Relays (275-218)? I've
picked up a few of these with the plug in bases for my speed brake
control, etc., and I was expecting the base to have some tabs to screw
down to the aircraft or something....
Brett
=
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 28
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Branstrom" <danbranstrom@verizon.net>
That wire was used in telephones from the handset to base and base to the
wall. I have an old bakelite telephone that has that type of wire. It was
actually crimped on to a connector that was then screwed to a terminal.
Dan Branstrom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chad Robinson" <crobinson@rfgonline.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Cabling
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Robinson
<crobinson@rfgonline.com>
>
> Eric M. Jones wrote:
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
> >
> >>>AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> > <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >
> >>>>AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
> > <emjones@charter.net>
> >
> >>>Cat5e-- you can get this in plenum grade easily.
> >>
> >> UGH!!!! 24AWG SOLID WIRE in an airplane???????
> >> Bob . . .
> >
> >
> > Yeh....But. You can easily get the stranded stuff. Besides, surely there
> > must be some AWG size below which stranding makes little sense? I don't
> > believe a test between stranded Cat5e and solid would show any
difference.
>
> Useless trivia: I once saw 24AWG stranded that was actually an extremely
thin,
> flat band of copper wrapped around a (nylon?) string as its core. Odd
stuff,
> and the devil's mother to solder onto. Don't think this was for special
> surface-conduction properties or anything, it was just mass-produced cheap
> junk. Oddest thing I ever saw (in terms of raw wire, anyway).
>
> I suppose this question really comes down to what you have on hand. I
asked
> this very question of Bob a few months ago because I happen to HAVE about
a
> thousand feet of plenum-rated CAT5e, good stuff that I used to install
when I
> ran network cabling. I think the consensus at that time was if you had to
buy
> something, buy the "right" thing, but it wasn't going to cause significant
harm.
>
> Regards,
> Chad
>
> (do not archive)
>
>
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