Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:06 AM - Re: electrical wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 10:57 AM - Re: Wiring Diagrams Available (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 11:55 AM - "CAT 5" Wire ... (James E. Clark)
4. 03:08 PM - Re: CAT 5 Wire ... (Eric M. Jones)
5. 04:54 PM - VHF INSTALLATION HELP - URGENT!!!! (Henrique Castro)
6. 07:31 PM - Re: "CAT 5" Wire ... (John R)
7. 08:02 PM - S704-1 relays for trim? (Dan O'Brien)
8. 08:40 PM - Re: S704-1 relays for trim? (John Schroeder)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: electrical wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:06 AM 12/19/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dean May" <deanmay6@owc.net>
>
>Bob;
>
> I recently purchased your book "The Aeroelectric Connection" and
> noticed a conflict within. In the chapter "Electromagnetic
> Compatibility" page 16-12, paragraph three states "... keep fat wires
> away from skinny wires."
>which I assume to mean that the 2 & 4 gauge wires should be in a separate
>conduit from the 20 & 22 gauge wires. However, you then state in Appendix
>Z, Note 5; "Try to run ALL wiring in a single path down one side of the
>airplane. ... Use one side for wires, the other for engine controls."
I'll mark those paragraphs for clarification. Note
5 is correct. Engine instrumentation and controls,
properly wired, are not particularly vulnerable. Furher,
When all electrons running aft are counterbalanced by
paired electrons running forward in the same bundle,
chances of cross-coupling between systems are nil.
However, running current carrying conductors down
both sides of a canard-pusher has repeatedly
demonstrated a willingness to hose up the magnetic
compass. Hence the recommendation for single
bundle running aft to the engine.
In Section 16, the intent is to suggest
isolation between most vulnerable victims (audio
and avionics) from strongest antagonists (any wires
carrying high power distribution currents like
battery, alternator, bus feeds, pitot heaters,
etc.) These are prophylactic measures. Incorporation
does not guarantee a noise free system nor does
failure to incorporate guarantee problems.
It simply improves your odds and reduces the number
of potential propagation paths to explore should a
noise problem manifest itself.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams Available |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:59 PM 12/18/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Randy Pflanzer"
><f1rocket@comcast.net>
>
>For those of you with the interest, I posted all the wiring diagrams for
>my F1 Rocket on my web site today. You can get to them off of the F1
>Rocket Project page. You can view them as .PDF files using Adobe Acrobat.
>
>Perhaps you'll find them helpful. I don't have them all there yet as I am
>still undecided on my EFIS and avionics packages.
>
>Let me know if you see something that looks like it will let all the smoke
>out of the wires!!
Randy, thanks for sharing these with the List . . . you've
spent a lot of time putting them together and they're an
excellent example of how to document your system.
On the standby alternator, you'll need to eliminate the "AUX ON"
lamp in series with the BUS feed to SB-1 reglator. Pin 6 is field
supply lead for the alternator and should get a hard connection to
the bus when the switch is closed.
The other lamp is labeled AUX INOP . . . acttally, this light will
illuminate when the aux alternator picks up a load. Normal operations
call for both alternator switches to be ON. Aux alternator voltage
regulator is set about a volt lower than main alternator set point.
When main alternator is doing it's job, aux alternator will simple
relax. If the bus voltage sags (due to main alternator failure) the
aux alternator will come alive. IF system loads exceed rating of
alternator, the light will be flashing. You simply reduce system
loads until the light illuminates steady. If the main alternator
comes back on line, the aux alternator relaxes again and the light
will go out.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | "CAT 5" Wire ... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Bob, (and the rest of the list)
I recently saw (while looking for something else at Best Buy) a wire bundle
with strippers/crimpers that was Cat 5 wiring (but "better" ... don't
remember the exact reason for the claim of "beyond"/"better" etc). But .....
I noticed that it was STRANDED wire. The wire was listed as AWG 24 I think.
Since one of the concerns you mentioned before was that the wire was solid,
maybe this is why it is better.
My question ...
Does this change your view on the potential applicability of this wire for
something like the MAC trim servos (given that it is stranded??
[I understand that the Tefzel stuff is better and one can do whatever one
wishes/ :-) ]
For those interested, the whole thing cost about $99.00 and included a
significant length of wire. (No I do not recall the length).
James
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: CAT 5 Wire ... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
<james@nextupventures.com>
>Does this change your view on the potential applicability of this wire for
>something like the MAC trim servos (given that it is stranded??
I earlier suggested Cat5 because it is usually at hand. Stranded and plenum
wire is easy to get. On the other hand Digikey and many others will sell any
kind of control cable for little money. If you insist on using cat5, cat5e,
cat6, etc. you might consider stripping off the outer covering and just
using the Mylar- taped bundle. Save a few grams.
>For those interested, the whole thing cost about $99.00 and included a
>significant length of wire. (No I do not recall the length).
eBay always has this wire for the very best price. 1000 feet $50 etc. Search
"Cat5 stranded" click the "search in descriptions" box.
Eric
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | VHF INSTALLATION HELP - URGENT!!!! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Henrique Castro" <henriquerv9@hotmail.com>
Hi all,
I am finishing installing my PM1000II Intercom and a KY97A Tranceiver on my RV9A.
I am a little bit confused here. I have the following connections to finish.
I just would like to receive orientation from who knows this connections to
make sure I am doing nothing wrong.:
PM1000II -> KY97A
Pin#4 - Phone Lo -> PIN E?
Pin#17 - Phone HI -> PIN 5?
Pin#12 - Radio PTT -> PIN 9?
Pin#13 - Mic Lo -> PIN K or J?
Pin#25 - Mic HI -> PIN 8 ?
Any help on this will be very appreciated!!!
Regards
Henrique Castro
henriquerv9@hotmail.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: "CAT 5" Wire ... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John R <jrourke@allied-computer.com>
Perhaps it was "Cat-5e", which is "certified" to over 500MHz, rather
than the 100MHz needed for Cat-5.
Both are available in stranded or solid; solid is easier to crimp to the
RJ-45 plugs - but it doesn't lay flat and is easy to kink, so it's
mostly used in pre-wired behind-panel installations.
The stranded is a little harder to strip and crimp to the RJ45 plugs,
but it kinks less and lays flatter - definitely preferred for the patch
cable from the computer to the wall outlet, or jumpers on a patch panel.
-John R.
James E. Clark wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
>Bob, (and the rest of the list)
>
>I recently saw (while looking for something else at Best Buy) a wire bundle
>with strippers/crimpers that was Cat 5 wiring (but "better" ... don't
>remember the exact reason for the claim of "beyond"/"better" etc). But .....
>
>I noticed that it was STRANDED wire. The wire was listed as AWG 24 I think.
>Since one of the concerns you mentioned before was that the wire was solid,
>maybe this is why it is better.
>
>My question ...
>
>Does this change your view on the potential applicability of this wire for
>something like the MAC trim servos (given that it is stranded??
>
>[I understand that the Tefzel stuff is better and one can do whatever one
>wishes/ :-) ]
>
>For those interested, the whole thing cost about $99.00 and included a
>significant length of wire. (No I do not recall the length).
>
>James
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | S704-1 relays for trim? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien" <danobrien@cox.net>
Because I altered my plans from having a second small batter to having two
equally-sized batteries, I have a couple extra S704-1 relays. Is there any
reason not to use them for trim relays?
Dan O'Brien
Lancair ES
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: S704-1 relays for trim? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Dan -
B&C specifically notes that they can be used for trim and flaps. Go for it.
John
> Because I altered my plans from having a second small batter to having
> two equally-sized batteries, I have a couple extra S704-1 relays. Is
> there any reason not to use them for trim relays?
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