Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:08 AM - Re: Wiring Diagrams Available (AI Nut)
2. 05:30 AM - Re: Wiring Diagrams Available (F1Rocket@comcast.net)
3. 07:47 AM - Fuel sw? (Steve Hunt)
4. 07:54 AM - Re: Wiring Diagrams Available (F1Rocket@comcast.net)
5. 09:46 AM - Re: MicroAir transponder wiriing harness problem (Rick Fogerson)
6. 09:58 AM - Shield termination KCS55A/KI525A (Greg.Puckett@united.com)
7. 09:59 AM - KG102 pin out and/or internal P.S. schematic (Greg.Puckett@united.com)
8. 10:04 AM - Choices, choices, choices . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 10:23 AM - Re: Re: Wiring Diagrams Available (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 10:49 AM - ACS2002 Voltage Selector (Pat Hatch)
11. 10:52 AM - Re: Re: Wiring Diagrams Available (Dj Merrill)
12. 10:59 AM - EGT / CHT wiring urban .... (Jim Sower)
13. 11:05 AM - Re: Re: Wiring Diagrams Available (F1Rocket@comcast.net)
14. 11:14 AM - (Mickey Coggins)
15. 12:08 PM - Re: ACS2002 Voltage Selector (Jeffrey W. Skiba)
16. 12:22 PM - Re: EGT / CHT wiring urban .... (Richard Tasker)
17. 01:27 PM - Re: EGT / CHT wiring urban .... (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 03:11 PM - Re: EGT / CHT wiring urban .... (AI Nut)
19. 03:48 PM - XPDR strobe ? (Gilles.Thesee)
20. 04:19 PM - Re: EGT / CHT wiring urban .... (Richard Tasker)
21. 10:27 PM - Re: Re: Wiring Diagrams Available (ACE595@aol.com)
22. 10:30 PM - Re: XPDR strobe ? (Neal A. Dillman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams Available |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "AI Nut" <ainut@earthlink.net>
I was hoping to find them or others in Visio or other CAD format, not .PDF.
8-)
Thanks,
AI Nut
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Boardman" <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wiring Diagrams Available
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman
<dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
>
> Al,
>
> The original message:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Randy Pflanzer"
> <f1rocket@comcast.net>
>
> For those of you with the interest, I posted all the wiring diagrams for
my
> F1 Rocket on my web site today. You can get to them off of the F1 Rocket
> Project page. You can view them as .PDF files using Adobe Acrobat.
>
> Perhaps you'll find them helpful. I don't have them all there yet as I am
> still undecided on my EFIS and avionics packages.
>
> Let me know if you see something that looks like it will let all the smoke
> out of the wires!!
>
> Regards,
> Randy #95
> http://f1rocket.home.comcast.net/
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams Available |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: F1Rocket@comcast.net
Yes, you are the second reader to catch that. I have fixed and re-posted. Thanks.
I twisted the cables per the "Aeroelectric Connection". I'm not sure it is really
necessary but it won't hurt anything either.
Randy
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
>
> Hi Randy,
>
> Thanks for posting your wiring diagrams.
> They are Beautiful!
> I will be pondering over them to glean what I can for my project.
>
>
> On your Power Distribution Schematic you show your battery cables twisted.
>
> Reason?
>
>
> One small thing I noticed on the Power Distribution page. Looks like the
> symbol for the battery should be 180 degrees ... long line positive and
> short negative ... yes?
>
> Thanks again,
> Don B.
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Hunt" <Stephen.Hunt19@btinternet.com>
Hi,
new to the list, about 8 months from first flight RV8 in UK. Three electrical bits
puzzling me and wonder if you can help.
1. Have an IO 360 (injected ) engine. I am supposing that a simple toggle, on/off
will suffice for the fuel pump?
2. My essential bus is to get me on the ground as soon as possible...endurance
not the issue that many people want. We cannot fly IMC or at night in UK with
home build. After 13000 hrs "conditioning" as an airline pilot I do not want to
stay airborne with an unresolved electrical problem....especially when I have
constructed the set up! In UK never far from a landable site.
I want to supply the VHF, Tx Pdr, EFIS Lite(Blue Mountain ) AND Flap motor from
the essential bus, normally via a silicone diode from the main bus. In non normal
mode Flaps would be selected when Visual, clear to Land and committed....if
any pwr left. What size , type of diode do I need for normal operation of
such a system?
3. Any thoughts on best solution to wiring in the ammeter?
Steve Hunt
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams Available |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: F1Rocket@comcast.net
Bob,
Thanks for the comments. This now raises a couple of questions. Please see below:
>On the standby alternator, you'll need to eliminate the "AUX ON" lamp in >series
with the BUS feed to SB-1 reglator. Pin 6 is field supply lead for the >alternator
and should get a hard connection to the bus when the switch is >closed.
The other lamp is labeled AUX INOP . . . actually, this light will >illuminate
when the aux alternator picks up a load. Normal operations call for >both
alternator switches to be ON.
Then what is the purpose of the AUX ALT switch? If it is supposed to be on always,
one can always use the AUX C/B to take the Aux alternator off-line.
>Aux alternator voltage regulator is set about a volt lower than main >alternator
set point. When main alternator is doing it's job, aux alternator >will simple
relax. If the bus voltage sags (due to main alternator failure) >the aux
alternator will come alive. IF system loads exceed rating of >alternator, the
light will be flashing. You simply reduce system loads until >the light illuminates
steady. If the main alternator comes back on line, the >aux alternator
relaxes again and the light will go out.
How do I know if the AUX alternator is off line? There doesn't appear to be any
warning light to indicate Battery Only operation. It appears that the Aux light
coming on with a load is a redundant warning since the warning light of the
primary alternator controller should be illuminated. Looks like I might be
able to eliminate the Primary INOP light in this scenario then.
I'm not sure how to wire this up now. I'm thinking I can eliminate the Aux Alternator
switch, the Primary INOP warning light, and the AUX On light. If the
primary alternator goes off line, the AUX warning light will either illuminate
or flash, depending on the load, telling me that the auxiliary alternator is
now carrying the load of the aircraft. If the AUX Alternator goes off line, I
don't know how I'll know unless the engine monitor triggers a low volt warning.
Do I have it correct?
Thanks.
Randy
F1 Rocket
http://f1rocket.home.comcast.net/
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: MicroAir transponder wiriing harness problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Do Not Archive
Sorry Bob,
We didn't talk about the requirements any further than just " a wiring
harness for the T2000 xpdr. Unfortunately I didn't know enough to realize
that the harness would be different for different encoders.
I've just been able to talk to Rocky Mtn. and think the best thing is to
send the harness back to you with instructions. I'll get it in the mail
today!
Thanks, Rick Fogerson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III problem" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: MicroAir transponder wiriing harness problem
> >Hi Bob,
> >I ordered and received a wiring harness from you a few months back. Just
> >now getting around to installing the Micro Air xpdr and Rocky Mtn Micro
> >Encoder. Problems are as follows:
> >
> >1) The 15 pin connector on the harness and the back of the Micro Encoder
> >are both female. Besides not very exciting to watch there was no
> >consumation of this type of union.
> >
> >2) It appears that the pin locations are also incompatible. Really a
> >troubled relationship. If you need them, I will send the pin callouts
for
> >a Micro Encoder.
>
> Hmmm . . . did we talk about this when you ordered your harness?
> I've never had a pinout diagram for Rocky Mountain's products
> in house . . . so if we offered you a plug-n-play harness at the
> time, I had to have been out in left field somewhere.
>
> If you have pinout data for the encoder and want to sent your
> harness back, I'll install the proper plug.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Shield termination KCS55A/KI525A |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Greg.Puckett@united.com
Hello,
I'm hoping someone can recommend where to attach the shield terminations
for a KI525A HSI. I've seen photo's (cannot find link) that show the
shield terminations attached to the screw on the KI525's connector
strain relief. I'm really not happy with this because the strain relief
is just floating in the slot of the back shell and the back shell itself
is only attached electrically to the connector alignment/keying posts
(still just floating).
Thanks,
Greg Puckett
RV-8 80081 slooooow build
Message 7
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| Subject: | KG102 pin out and/or internal P.S. schematic |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Greg.Puckett@united.com
Hello,
I need some help with my KCS55A/CNX80 installation. My KI525A has the
HDG bootstrap syncro out and I'd like to utilize it to feed the HDG xyz
in for the CNX80 only. Someone at a local avionics shop told me I do not
have to buy a 26VAC 400HZ inverter that the KG102A has 400HZ 26VAC out
and is just not shown on the KCS55 install docs.
I have the KCS55 install manual and it does not show it. I'm wondering
if anyone has access to a KG102A component Maint. manual. I've been told
the 26vac high out is pin p but I'm not sure what I should use as a
26VAC lo (C). I would like some assurance that driving the primary coil
for the bootstrap in the 525 HSI will not demand too much from the AC
power supply in the remote gyro. I was told just to use case GND for the
(L) side and the shield too. I'm pretty sure the CNX80 ref and xyz
inputs are high impedance but I'm wondering if the primary in the 525A
will draw more than the remote gyro power supply can handle.
Thanks
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, Colorado
RV8 80081
Message 8
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| Subject: | Choices, choices, choices . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
From time to time, a builder writes to ask, "I got a really
good deal on this kind of wire, can I use it to wire up
my whizzy-giget?" Or, "Why should I go out an buy this
$high$ connector that takes a special tool when this
$low$ connector does the same job and installs with
a soldering iron?" I've been pondering this situation for
the past several days. Indulge me please while
I share some past experiences:
When I was in the 4th or 5th grade, I shared an interest
in model aircraft construction with a cousin about 5 years
my senior. He worked in a hobby shop and I think took much
of his compensation in store stock. His models were
all beautifully crafted and flew well. I recall a
conversation about glue. His personal choice was a product
called Ambroid while my personal preference was for
a less expensive, faster drying Testor's model cement.
As I recall, Ambroid sold for perhaps three or four
times the price of Testors. It also took 12-18 hours
to reach full strength.
When you considered the cost of a kit, cost of engine,
and hours to assemble, and a quest of lowest cost of
ownership (lots of maintenance-free flying), the
difference in $total$ for assembling with Ambroid vs.
Testors was insignificant. He also covered in silk while
I used tissue. I suspect there were additional differences
in our choice materials and techniques wherein I went the
$low$ route . . . but in the final analysis made little
difference in the total cost of our respective
projects.
Perhaps it was a mute point in my case, cousin Calvin's
models usually lived to fly many a mission while my
own were not so fortunate. Had any of his models
survived to the present time, it's a certainty that
they would be the finest examples of model construction
of that era.
Would we build a model that way today? Epoxy wasn't
around then. Nor were any form of composite materials.
You had to shrink coverings to contour with multiple
coats of finish, not with a hot iron. Radio
control was bang-bang, rudder only at wide open throttle,
today it's fully three-axis with trims accessory
control channels + throttle.
I open my seminars with a statement to the effect, "You
folks are building the finest airplanes to have ever
flown." This always raises a few eyebrows, "Wha-da-ya-
mean? I don't know all that much about it."
I can confidently reply, "Yes, and that's why. You
participate on list servers to tap the collective
gray-matter of the OBAM aircraft community. You are
attending this seminar to achieve a higher level of
understanding.
If you break something, it gets replaced. If
a part doesn't work quite right, you rebuild it as
needed until it does. Unlike those new graduates bucking
rivets on an assembly line while dreaming about what they're
going to do after work that evening, YOU are paying attention
to achieving the very best the community knows how to do.
I'll suggest there is more VALUE in a nicely built RV
than ANY spam can irrespective of how nice the paint looks
or what electro-whizzies are bolted to the panel. Finally,
no two OBAM aircraft are built exactly the same way. Certified
airplanes are literally carved into regulatory stone of
conformance, your airplane can freely evolve. OBAM aircraft
are by definition at the leading edge of performance
and value in aviation."
Remember the Jimmy Stewart movie "Flight of the Phoenix"?
The folks trying to assemble a man-rated, flying aircraft
from a pile of salvage were not pleased to discover that
their "designer's" previous experience was limited to building
flying models. It took some time for folks to understand that
basic principals of structures and flight were interchangeable
between the worlds of miniature and full-scale.
I suggest that after you've purchased kit, engine, propeller,
brakes, and a panel full of whippy radios and instruments, impact
on total cost for the-best-we-know-how-to-do versus materials
or tools you discovered at a garage sale or hardware store is
trivial.
My experience at workbench of cousin Calvin stands out my
memory as a benchmark of Calvin's superior sense craftsmanship.
He chose to build in a manner that represented the very
best the model building community knew how to do.
To be sure, few OBAM aircraft builders are going to be using
today's techniques and technologies 20 years from now . . . May I
suggest we should be wary of tools, techniques and materials
popularly used 20 years ago? May I further suggest that it's
not so much a question of "will it work" as opposed to will
it be something you'll look back on 20 years from now as the
best we knew how to do today?
Dee and I offer our best wishes for you and yours for the
upcoming holidays. We're looking forward to meeting many of
you in what promises to be a busy seminar schedule for
next year. It's always enjoyable and gratifying to work with
folks building the finest airplanes to have ever flown.
Bob . . .
P.S. I'd appreciate it if folks would take the time to relay
this note to other list servers . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams Available |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:54 PM 12/22/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: F1Rocket@comcast.net
>
>Bob,
>
>Thanks for the comments. This now raises a couple of questions. Please
>see below:
>
> >On the standby alternator, you'll need to eliminate the "AUX ON" lamp
> in >series with the BUS feed to SB-1 reglator. Pin 6 is field supply lead
> for the >alternator and should get a hard connection to the bus when the
> switch is >closed. The other lamp is labeled AUX INOP . . . actually,
> this light will >illuminate when the aux alternator picks up a load.
> Normal operations call for >both alternator switches to be ON.
>
>Then what is the purpose of the AUX ALT switch? If it is supposed to be
>on always, one can always use the AUX C/B to take the Aux alternator off-line.
You can do that if you wish. This system was crafted mostly to
support adding a capable alternator to an existing system . . .
particularly certified ships. The feds wouldn't look kindly
on using a circuit breaker as a panel control. However, the
C210 installation does in fact use a switch-breaker for the
bus-feed control.
If you eliminate the switch (and the breaker stays normally
closed) the s/b alternator comes up immediately after starting
the engine.
> >Aux alternator voltage regulator is set about a volt lower than
> main >alternator set point. When main alternator is doing it's job, aux
> alternator >will simple relax. If the bus voltage sags (due to main
> alternator failure) >the aux alternator will come alive. IF system loads
> exceed rating of >alternator, the light will be flashing. You simply
> reduce system loads until >the light illuminates steady. If the main
> alternator comes back on line, the >aux alternator relaxes again and the
> light will go out.
>
>How do I know if the AUX alternator is off line?
The "AUX ALT" light will go out if the alternator
is not delivering energy to the system. Further,
voltmeter, loadmeter and/or lv-warning instrumentation
would be expected to supplement the warning lights
supplied with ship's regulators . . .
>There doesn't appear to be any warning light to indicate Battery Only
>operation. It appears that the Aux light coming on with a load is a
>redundant warning since the warning light of the primary alternator
>controller should be illuminated.
The warning light for primary alternator controller is LOW VOLTS.
It will continue to function in that capacity even when the main
alternator is off. If the main alternator is off/failed and
the aux alternator is up, the LOW VOLTS warning light should be
out and the AUX ALT light would be on. If the aux alternator is
off/failed, then the LOW VOLTS light will be flashing.
> Looks like I might be able to eliminate the Primary INOP light in this
> scenario then.
Nope . . .
>I'm not sure how to wire this up now. I'm thinking I can eliminate the
>Aux Alternator switch, the Primary INOP warning light, and the AUX On
>light. If the primary alternator goes off line, the AUX warning light
>will either illuminate or flash, depending on the load, telling me that
>the auxiliary alternator is now carrying the load of the aircraft. If the
>AUX Alternator goes off line, I don't know how I'll know unless the engine
>monitor triggers a low volt warning. Do I have it correct?
If it were my airplane, I'd wire it as described in Z-12. I believe
all the bases for functionality and serviceability have been covered.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | ACS2002 Voltage Selector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Bob,
I wonder if you could propose a solution for the following:
The ACS2002 engine monitor uses the bus for a power source and also to monitor
bus voltage. If I have the dual electrical system (Z-14), how does one select
main and aux bus voltage without breaking the power source for the monitor?
I assume that I would re-boot the system every time that I changed the voltage
selection via a single pole double throw switch. I am sure there is a better
solution. Thanks for your help.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams Available |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dj Merrill <deej@thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>>Then what is the purpose of the AUX ALT switch? If it is supposed to be
>>on always, one can always use the AUX C/B to take the Aux alternator off-line.
>>
>>
>
> You can do that if you wish. This system was crafted mostly to
> support adding a capable alternator to an existing system . . .
> particularly certified ships. The feds wouldn't look kindly
> on using a circuit breaker as a panel control. However, the
> C210 installation does in fact use a switch-breaker for the
> bus-feed control.
>
>
Hi Bob,
I'm perhaps showing my newbie ignorance here, but why
would the feds have an issue with using a switch-breaker
as a panel control? Isn't that what they are designed for?
-Dj, curious...
Message 12
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| Subject: | EGT / CHT wiring urban .... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net>
I have always heard that CHT / EGT wires have to be the material provided with
the probes
all the way from the probe to the instrument. Then I heard somewhere (might have
been here)
that you can switch from the "trick" wire coming out of the probe to standard wire
(or use a
rotary switch to step through the cylinders on a single readout gauge) and maintain
acceptable accuracy provided the ambient temperature at the junction was stable
(like inside
the cabin). Is there anything to this? Can I switch to standard wire from the
firewall of
an EZ or put a rotary switch and standard wire between the "trick" wire and the
display?
How much of all this is urban legend .... Jim S.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams Available |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: F1Rocket@comcast.net
> If you eliminate the switch (and the breaker stays normally
> closed) the s/b alternator comes up immediately after starting
> the engine.
That's okay isn't it? I assumed that you don't mess with the switch during start-up,
but rather just leave it on.
> The warning light for primary alternator controller is LOW VOLTS.
> It will continue to function in that capacity even when the main
> alternator is off. If the main alternator is off/failed and
> the aux alternator is up, the LOW VOLTS warning light should be
> out and the AUX ALT light would be on. If the aux alternator is
> off/failed, then the LOW VOLTS light will be flashing.
>
That was the nugget of information that was missing from my brain. Thanks.
Randy
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>... No, there aren't any Visio symbols/shapes on the CD, I'm
>afraid you have to come up with your own.
>
>Bob; This Visio shape topic seems to be a recurring thing, perhaps we
>should start submitting our shapes to your for archival on the CD??
That would be great! I also installed the trial version of SmartDraw,
which works pretty much like Visio, and has some nice shapes.
I kind of hate to plunk down another 198 bucks for an application
when all I need are some shapes. It would be nice to ditch Visio,
tho, now that they are part of MS, but if I stumble across a bunch
of shapes that look like Bob's, I'm there.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
GSM: +41-79-210-3762
FAX: +41-86-079-210-3762
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007
Empennage complete, waiting for wings to arrive
Message 15
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| Subject: | ACS2002 Voltage Selector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jeffrey W. Skiba" <jskiba@icosa.net>
I will take a stab at this one:
If you get a capacitor and figure out how much current the unit needs to
"stay Powered" while your momentarily switching it via the switch this would
allow you to monitor both sources.
How big, is really dependant of how much the unit draws and how long the
"break " is in the switch I bet somebody knows how to figure that out better
than I
Hope that helps
Jeff.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Bob,
I wonder if you could propose a solution for the following:
The ACS2002 engine monitor uses the bus for a power source and also to
monitor bus voltage. If I have the dual electrical system (Z-14), how does
one select main and aux bus voltage without breaking the power source for
the monitor? I assume that I would re-boot the system every time that I
changed the voltage selection via a single pole double throw switch. I am
sure there is a better solution. Thanks for your help.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: EGT / CHT wiring urban .... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
If the temperature where you make the junction between the thermocouple
wire and the copper wire and the temperature at the instrument that
converts the temperature to a display is the same, then there will be no
error and there is no reason you cannot do this. Any temperature
difference between these two points will be reflected in the reading
accuracy. This inaccuracy may be negligible if it is small and you are
measuring high temperatures (E.G. EGT) especially if you are primarily
trying to match several temperatures or find out which one is highest.
For instance, if you change wire type at the firewall which is 90
degrees while the instrument junction is 70 degrees, your readings will
be off by 20 degrees high. If the temperature is the same there will be
no error.
The way thermocouple wires work is by generating a small voltage (mV)
between the dissimilar metal wires. Every metal junction will generate
a voltage which is dependent on the actual temperature and the
particular metals involved. The instrument that uses the thermocouple
wire input senses the temperature where the thermocouple wires connect
to the instrument and compensates for the voltage generated there -
resulting in a reading of the remote (EGT or CHT) junction. If you add
a length of copper wire between the thermocouple wire and the
instrument, then the instrument will still compensate for the
temperature where the wire connects. Only now, there is no voltage
being generated there since the actual junction is somewhere else. But,
as noted earlier, if the temperatures of the two ends of the copper wire
are similar the compensation will still work.
The same thing applies if you use a switch only there are more junctions
involved.
Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
Jim Sower wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net>
>
>I have always heard that CHT / EGT wires have to be the material provided with
the probes
>all the way from the probe to the instrument. Then I heard somewhere (might have
been here)
>that you can switch from the "trick" wire coming out of the probe to standard
wire (or use a
>rotary switch to step through the cylinders on a single readout gauge) and maintain
>acceptable accuracy provided the ambient temperature at the junction was stable
(like inside
>the cabin). Is there anything to this? Can I switch to standard wire from the
firewall of
>an EZ or put a rotary switch and standard wire between the "trick" wire and the
display?
>
>How much of all this is urban legend .... Jim S.
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: EGT / CHT wiring urban .... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:01 PM 12/22/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net>
>
>I have always heard that CHT / EGT wires have to be the material provided
>with the probes
>all the way from the probe to the instrument. Then I heard somewhere
>(might have been here)
>that you can switch from the "trick" wire coming out of the probe to
>standard wire (or use a
>rotary switch to step through the cylinders on a single readout gauge) and
>maintain
>acceptable accuracy provided the ambient temperature at the junction was
>stable (like inside
>the cabin). Is there anything to this? Can I switch to standard wire
>from the firewall of
>an EZ or put a rotary switch and standard wire between the "trick" wire
>and the display?
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: EGT / CHT wiring urban .... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "AI Nut" <ainut@earthlink.net>
This is what I was told by a manufacturer and others (hope I remember it
correctly):
One needs to have the same kind of wire, kind is dependent upon the
thermocouple (TC), all the way from the sensor to the final instrument.
If you need a multi-way switch, use the same kind of wire to the switch,
then it is conservative to use the same kind of wire from the switch to the
instrument. Caveat: the switch needs to be in the same temperature zone as
the instrument since the 'cold junction' matches are critical to
sensor/instrument accuracy. Anytime one has a connection in the sensor
wire, one creates another cold junction.
One can't mix a digital instrument with an analog system and maintain
accuracy to either one.
HTH,
AI Nut
using EGT/CHT per cylinder to feed analog to digital convertor then to
computer, via Analog Devices 594/595 chips.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sower" <canarder@frontiernet.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: EGT / CHT wiring urban ....
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower
<canarder@frontiernet.net>
>
> I have always heard that CHT / EGT wires have to be the material provided
with the probes
> all the way from the probe to the instrument. Then I heard somewhere
(might have been here)
> that you can switch from the "trick" wire coming out of the probe to
standard wire (or use a
> rotary switch to step through the cylinders on a single readout gauge) and
maintain
> acceptable accuracy provided the ambient temperature at the junction was
stable (like inside
> the cabin). Is there anything to this? Can I switch to standard wire
from the firewall of
> an EZ or put a rotary switch and standard wire between the "trick" wire
and the display?
>
> How much of all this is urban legend .... Jim S.
>
>
Message 19
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Hi all,
The AK 350 encoder instruction sheet mentions a strobe wire.
What is that strobe wire for ?
Thanks,
Gilles
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: EGT / CHT wiring urban .... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
AI Nut wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "AI Nut" <ainut@earthlink.net>
>
>This is what I was told by a manufacturer and others (hope I remember it
>correctly):
>
>One needs to have the same kind of wire, kind is dependent upon the
>thermocouple (TC), all the way from the sensor to the final instrument.
>
This is best practice, but not necessarily required. For example, if
you are measuring a high temperature (EGT) and are only tuning for some
amount lean or rich of peak, then any errors caused by connecting the
thermocouple wires to copper wires somewhere between the measurement and
the instrument are essentially negligible - especially if the junction
is at approximately the same temperature as the instrument.
On the other hand, if you are trying to measure a temperature closer to
ambient, it is much more important to use thermocouple wire all the way
(see comment below also).
>If you need a multi-way switch, use the same kind of wire to the switch,
>then it is conservative to use the same kind of wire from the switch to the
>instrument. Caveat: the switch needs to be in the same temperature zone as
>the instrument since the 'cold junction' matches are critical to
>sensor/instrument accuracy.
>
This is not true if you actually use thermocouple wire from the switch
to the instrument. As long as all terminals of the switch are at the
same temperature all the junction potentials cancel out (i.e.
thermocouple from the measurement point to switch contact generates one
voltage and switch contact to thermocouple connected to the instrument
generates an opposite polarity voltage).
>Anytime one has a connection in the sensor
>wire, one creates another cold junction.
>
True.
>One can't mix a digital instrument with an analog system and maintain
>accuracy to either one.
>
>HTH,
>AI Nut
>using EGT/CHT per cylinder to feed analog to digital convertor then to
>computer, via Analog Devices 594/595 chips.
>
>
Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagrams Available |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ACE595@aol.com
bob whats you feeling about using the EXP Buss system and not using the normal
circut breaker type set up?
Tom ware
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: XPDR strobe ? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neal A. Dillman" <neald@glyph.com>
Gilles,
If your transponder uses the strobe line (most don't these days), then
connect that wire. Otherwise just connect it to ground.
Happy wiring.
Regards,
Neal
Gilles.Thesee wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>Hi all,
>
>The AK 350 encoder instruction sheet mentions a strobe wire.
>What is that strobe wire for ?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Gilles
>
>
>
>
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