AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Fri 12/26/03


Total Messages Posted: 19



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:31 AM - Re: Fuel sw? (Steve Hunt)
     2. 05:37 AM - Re: Breakdown voltage (Gary Casey)
     3. 09:28 AM - Re: Resistive Fuel Sensors (Ross Mickey)
     4. 12:12 PM - MicroAir transponder wiriing harness problem (Rick Fogerson)
     5. 12:32 PM - Removing locking pins from radio connector.... (Jack Lockamy)
     6. 12:58 PM - Matronics Internet Connection Repaired!!  (Matt Dralle)
     7. 01:50 PM - voltage regulator location (Scott Diffenbaugh)
     8. 01:59 PM - Both Z-13 alternators on at same time (Scott Diffenbaugh)
     9. 02:24 PM - Securing Pins in D-Sub Connector (John Wiegenstein)
    10. 03:44 PM - Re: Securing Pins in D-Sub Connector (N1deltawhiskey@aol.com)
    11. 05:32 PM - Re: Securing Pins in D-Sub Connector (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    12. 05:36 PM - Re: Removing locking pins from radio (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    13. 06:17 PM - Phone/Mic Jack Connector (Don Boardman)
    14. 06:20 PM - Re: Removing locking pins from radio connector.... (James Redmon)
    15. 06:30 PM - Re: Both Z-13 alternators on at same time (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    16. 06:37 PM - Re: voltage regulator location (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    17. 06:39 PM - Re: MicroAir transponder wiriing harness (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    18. 07:14 PM - Re: Re: Thermocouples (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    19. 10:27 PM - Re: MicroAir transponder wiriing harness (Rick Fogerson)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:31:36 AM PST US
    From: "Steve Hunt" <Stephen.Hunt19@btinternet.com>
    Subject: Re: Fuel sw?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Hunt" <Stephen.Hunt19@btinternet.com> Add 1000 g and you get the correct weight, I dropped the "1" ! It`s an amazingly light bit of kit, Blue Mountain produce it, they have a webb site.


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:37:31 AM PST US
    From: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
    Subject: RE: Breakdown voltage
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net> <<For a practical distance between high voltage wires in the range of a few mm, when you change pressure starting from the atmospheric pressure, the breakdown voltage is proportional to the pressure. At around 5,000 m (~15,000ft) the pressure reduces by a factor of two, and the breakdown voltage reduces by a factor of two. That proportional dependence is valid for any practical aviation altitude until you reach a pressure somewhere between 1 and 0.1 mmHg, which would correspond to an altitude of sub orbital ionosphere...So, you are right that vacuum is much better insulator than air. But it is a LONG way to go from any aviation pressure at any realistic altitude to vacuum. Jerzy>> You explained it better than I, Jerzy. One thing I didn't know is that the minimum breakdown voltage (minimum dielectric strength) occurs at a pressure other than a perfect vacuum. What I was getting at was the difference between resistance and dielectric strength. Air has a certain conductivity (when it contains a normal amount of moisture) so that might lead one to believe that it would be better to pull a vacuum in the distributor cap. The difference is that in the distributor cap we are concerned with breakdown voltage, not the insulating properties and that's why the magnetos are typically pressurized. Gary Casey


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:28:25 AM PST US
    From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
    Subject: Re: Resistive Fuel Sensors
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com> ----- Original Message ----- From: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net> > I'm installing Stewart Warner resistive fuel sensors in my RV9A. To provide some redundancy I am considering adding a set of Vans analog gauges, in series with a Grand Rapids EIS4000. > > Are there any concerns about having more than one gauge attached to these sensors? My suggestion here, if you really want redundancy, is to get the fuel flow option for the EIS4000. Then you have two independent sources to cross check against. That is what I did. The fuel flow is now calibrated to within .5 gal. Ross mickey N9PT


    Message 4


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    Time: 12:12:02 PM PST US
    From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
    Subject: MicroAir transponder wiriing harness problem
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net> Do Not Archive > > Hi Bob, > > I mailed the harness back to you via UPS Ground on Monday so you should receive > > it any day. The Rocky Mtn. encoder also has a 9 pin connector that > requires > > shielded twisted pair wiring. I would like to buy 6 feet of it from you > if > > you can include in the return harness package. > > One other thing, I included a note with the RMI encoder pin callout. And > > because the encoder and xpdr are so close, the harness connecting the two > > could be shortened to 16 to 17 inches. Tried to mail this to: nuckolls@aeroelectric.com but didn't go thru. Do you have a different e-mail address now? > > > > Thanks, Rick Fogerson > > 7558 W. Hathaway Ct. > > Boise, ID 83714 > > > > > >Sorry Bob, > > > >We didn't talk about the requirements any further than just " a wiring > > > >harness for the T2000 xpdr. Unfortunately I didn't know enough to > > realize > > > >that the harness would be different for different encoders. > > > >I've just been able to talk to Rocky Mtn. and think the best thing is > to > > > >send the harness back to you with instructions. I'll get it in the > mail > > > >today! > > > > > > Very good. > > > > > > Bob . . . > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 12:32:28 PM PST US
    From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
    Subject: Removing locking pins from radio connector....
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net> What's the secret to removing the small locking pins from a connector (back of Bendix/King KA-134 Audio Panel)? I have a couple wires that slipped free from a pin. I need to remove the pin, re-crimp the wires, and then install them back in the connector. Jack


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:58:10 PM PST US
    From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
    Subject: Matronics Internet Connection Repaired!!
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> Dear Listers, The phone company was out here bright and early this morning and repaired the wires and the T1 connection is back up and rock solid! Again my apologies for any inconvenience the disruption may have caused. Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft do not archive


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:50:53 PM PST US
    From: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff@foothill.net>
    Subject: voltage regulator location
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff@foothill.net> For a z-13 installation, I have noted on the instructions for both the LR-3 regulator, and the SD-8 regulator, capacitor, relay, & OV module, that these items should be mounted on the cockpit side of the firewall to avoid heat, water, & vibration. I'm real curious as to where most builders install them, and any good or bad experiences. How often might these devices cause smoke in the cockpit? What about access to adjust the voltage and perform the annual test on the LR-3? Also, I would be running the SD-8 12 ga output wire inside the cockpit to the devices and then back out again to the battery contactor. Any insights will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Scott, RV7-A Scott Diffenbaugh diff@foothill.net


    Message 8


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    Time: 01:59:34 PM PST US
    From: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff@foothill.net>
    Subject: Both Z-13 alternators on at same time
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff@foothill.net> Hi Bob, Just have a desire to further my education. Per Z-13, what happens if I inadvertently turn on my SD-8 while my main alternator is running? Would this be an expensive lesson with lots of smoke? Do I need to set the voltage on one a bit less than the other? Thanks. Scott RV-7A Scott Diffenbaugh diff@foothill.net


    Message 9


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    Time: 02:24:56 PM PST US
    From: "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw@hellerwiegenstein.com>
    Subject: Securing Pins in D-Sub Connector
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw@hellerwiegenstein.com> Couldn't find anything in the archives, so here goes. Having ordered up the D-sub crimper, pins, etc. from B&C, I'm mulling over how to secure the pins and sockets in the D-sub connector bodies themselves. Sockets (female) seem to seat in pretty snugly, but the male pins do not. Rather than order shells for the connector bodies and finish them off that way, has anyone had good results with something simpler? I'm wondering if just a dab of RTV along the pin line, to secure the pins and wires to the connector body, would do the trick. TIA for any suggestions. John Wiegenstein Hansville, WA RV-6 N727JW (reserved)


    Message 10


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    Time: 03:44:19 PM PST US
    From: N1deltawhiskey@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Securing Pins in D-Sub Connector
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N1deltawhiskey@aol.com In a message dated 12/26/2003 2:25:45 PM Pacific Standard Time, n727jw@hellerwiegenstein.com writes: > Having ordered up the > D-sub crimper, pins, etc. from B&C, I'm mulling over how to secure the pins > and sockets in the D-sub connector bodies themselves. John, Just put the pin in the backside of the connector, it snaps in place. There is an insertion tool for this, but I have never needed to use it. Doug Windhorn


    Message 11


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    Time: 05:32:45 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Securing Pins in D-Sub Connector
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 02:24 PM 12/26/2003 -0800, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Wiegenstein" ><n727jw@hellerwiegenstein.com> > >Couldn't find anything in the archives, so here goes. Having ordered up the >D-sub crimper, pins, etc. from B&C, I'm mulling over how to secure the pins >and sockets in the D-sub connector bodies themselves. Sockets (female) >seem to seat in pretty snugly, but the male pins do not. Rather than order >shells for the connector bodies and finish them off that way, has anyone had >good results with something simpler? I'm wondering if just a dab of RTV >along the pin line, to secure the pins and wires to the connector body, >would do the trick. TIA for any suggestions. Either connector (assuming you're using a housing DESIGNED to accept the machined, removable pins) will grasp the pins very firmly. You push them in until you hear/feel a "snap" when the retention tines internal to the housing slip past the pin's largest diameter. If you're working with (ugh 24 awg or finer wire) you may need to use the red/wht insertion/extraction tool to press the pins into place. With all the wire in my inventory, I simply push the pin into final resting place by pushing with the wire. Once properly placed, you WILL need the white end of the insertion/extraction tool to remove a pin. Bob . . .


    Message 12


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    Time: 05:36:18 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> connector....
    Subject: Re: Removing locking pins from radio
    connector.... --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> connector.... At 09:50 AM 12/26/2003 -0800, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net> > >What's the secret to removing the small locking pins from a connector >(back of Bendix/King KA-134 Audio Panel)? > >I have a couple wires that slipped free from a pin. I need to remove the >pin, re-crimp the wires, and then install them back in the connector. You can buy or fabricate a tool like the one shown at: http://www.aeroelectric.com/Pictures/extraction_tool.jpg It's not likely that you'll be able to put a wire back into an already crimped pin and re-crimp it. It's a good idea to put 2-3 pound tug on a pin after crimping and before inserting pin into connector housing. If you can't achieve at least this degree of capture integrity, there's something wrong with either your crimp tool, technique or both. Bob . . .


    Message 13


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    Time: 06:17:45 PM PST US
    Subject: Phone/Mic Jack Connector
    From: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com> Hi Bob and All, We plan to put two cigar power jacks and the pilot's and co-pilot's phone and mic jacks between the pilot and co-pilot seats in a "small console". This console will need to be removed during annual inspection and therefore will need a disconnect. Are there any special considerations in selecting a connector because of the the phone and mic jacks? I am thinking Molex? Possibly D-sub? Thanks, Don B.


    Message 14


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    Time: 06:20:32 PM PST US
    From: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com>
    Subject: Re: Removing locking pins from radio connector....
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Redmon" <james@berkut13.com> In case you missed this before: http://www.berkut13.com/extractor.htm Definitely read this before trying to make or purchasing a tool!!!! You will be glad you did. Enjoy, James Redmon Berkut #013 N97TX www.berkut13.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Removing locking pins from radio connector.... > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net> > > What's the secret to removing the small locking pins from a connector (back of Bendix/King KA-134 Audio Panel)? > > I have a couple wires that slipped free from a pin. I need to remove the pin, re-crimp the wires, and then install them back in the connector. > > Jack > >


    Message 15


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    Time: 06:30:54 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Both Z-13 alternators on at same time
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 01:58 PM 12/26/2003 -0800, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Diffenbaugh" ><diff@foothill.net> > >Hi Bob, > Just have a desire to further my education. Per Z-13, what > happens if I >inadvertently turn on my SD-8 while my main alternator is running? Would >this be an expensive lesson with lots of smoke? Do I need to set the >voltage on one a bit less than the other? Thanks. Nope. No damage will occur. The alternator with the higher setpoint will attempt to hog the load . . . if this happens to be the smaller SD8 alternator, it will put out up between 8 and 10 amps before the bus sags enough to wake up the larger alternator whereupon it will take up the slack. Now, UNLIKE the SD-20 which is DESIGNED to operate TOGETHER with the larger alternator in a Z-12 configuration, you DON'T want to set the SD-8 for a lower voltage and run it all the time. Unless you have the special circuitry like that built into the SD-20/SB-1 combination to alert you when the main alternator fails, running the SD-8 all the time would mask the event if your system was lightly loaded. Bob . . .


    Message 16


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    Time: 06:37:13 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: voltage regulator location
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 01:49 PM 12/26/2003 -0800, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott Diffenbaugh" ><diff@foothill.net> > >For a z-13 installation, I have noted on the instructions for both the LR-3 >regulator, and the SD-8 regulator, capacitor, relay, & OV module, that these >items should be mounted on the cockpit side of the firewall to avoid heat, >water, & vibration. I'm real curious as to where most builders install >them, and any good or bad experiences. How often might these devices cause >smoke in the cockpit? What about access to adjust the voltage and perform >the annual test on the LR-3? Also, I would be running the SD-8 12 ga output >wire inside the cockpit to the devices and then back out again to the >battery contactor. Any insights will be greatly appreciated. EVERY manufacturer of electro-whizzies would like for you to never get his box wet, hot, too-cold, oily, dusty, or badly beat upon . . . if they had a choice. It stands to reason that PROBABILITY of unhappy customers due to environmentally induced problems will be lower. However, Mr. Bainbridge has elected to play in the same sandbox with the big guys. Irrespective of his best wishes for his products, they should not require any more pampering that other devices designed for airplanes. All of the devices you've cited have be successfully installed both in the cockpit and under the cowl for 15 to 20 years. Design your system for installation and maintenance ease and simplicity, not for feather-bedding the components. Bob . . .


    Message 17


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    Time: 06:39:34 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: MicroAir transponder wiriing harness
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> <snip> > Tried to mail this to: nuckolls@aeroelectric.com but didn't go thru. >Do you have a different e-mail address now? That account was closed when spam count topped 2 or 3 hundred a day. There is an unpublished e-mail address on the aeroelectric.com server that I use for limited purposes and is not checked as often as this on the cox.net account. Your harness has been modified per the data you provided and is out of here in tomorrow's mail. Bob . . .


    Message 18


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    Time: 07:14:43 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: RE: Thermocouples
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 01:24 PM 12/24/2003 -0800, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net> > ><<If you need a multi-way switch, use the same kind of wire to the switch, > >then it is conservative to use the same kind of wire from the switch to the > >instrument. Caveat: the switch needs to be in the same temperature zone as > >the instrument since the 'cold junction' matches are critical to > >sensor/instrument accuracy. Anytime one has a connection in the sensor > >wire, one creates another cold junction. > > It's more accurate to say that deleterious effects of > any parasitic thermocouples generated when introducing > foreign metals can be minimized as long as whatever is done > to one side of the thermocouple path is done to the other side > but in opposite polarity . . . it's a sorta two-wrongs-can- > make-a-right approach.>> > >Bob is certainly correct here. A long time ago when we were using passive >"pyrometers," really just voltmeters, to read thermocouples we even went as >far as to use a special selector switch that was made of the right >materials. But then I worked at a powerplant one summer and there were >thermocouples half a mile away from the instrument. We ran the TC wires to >a junction box, connected them to copper and ran the rest of the way in >copper. You can do this but the thermocouple-to-copper junction becomes the "cold" or "reference junction" . . . to achieve useable and accurate information, you'll need to either KNOW or CONTROL the temperature in that junction box. This is the configuration described in View -B-, Figure 14-10 of: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/excerpt.pdf In the "remote reference" scenario, I show making this connnection in an ice bath (0 degrees C) so that voltages can be converted to a useful temperature equivalent at the instrument end. I've designed systems were the j-box for a whole raft of t/c reference junctions was held at about 100C with a heater and thermostat. This provided a known correction factor to convert voltages sensed at instrument end into real temperatures. All of these discussion should be academic. REAL thermocouple wire is not hard to get nor is it expensive in the small quantities needed to wire the average SE aircraft. See: http://www.omega.com/toc_asp/subsectionSC.asp?subsection=H06&book=Temperature for a gaggle of thermocouple wire products. May I recommend the TT series wires and 20AWG stranded as particularly robust and easy to use. Of there are other combinations to choose from. There's a part-number-builder on each catalog page for wire that will tell you what a small quantity of each kind of wire will cost. For example, TT-J-20S in 25' coil is the grand sum of $32 plus shipping. The same insulation in a 24 gage stranded wire is $27. K-wires are similarly priced. Check out the rest of Omega's website for a wealth of free reference literature on thermocouples and other technologies. Bottom line is that what ever technology you use to deduce temperatures based on a thermocouple will DEPEND on a reference junction somewhere in the system. For panel mounted instruments, this reference is INSIDE the instrument. Bring T/C wires all the way up to the instrument if you expect to achieve specified performance for that instrument. Bob . . .


    Message 19


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    Time: 10:27:36 PM PST US
    From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
    Subject: Re: MicroAir transponder wiriing harness
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net> Do Not Archive Hi Bob, I suppose it's too late now. What I wanted was to see if I could buy 6 or 7 feet of shielded twisted pair wire from you and have it included in the same shipment as the redone harness. If it's too late, would radio shack have that? thanks, Rick Fogerson > > Tried to mail this to: nuckolls@aeroelectric.com but didn't go thru. > >Do you have a different e-mail address now? > > > That account was closed when spam count topped 2 or 3 hundred > a day. There is an unpublished e-mail address on the > aeroelectric.com server that I use for limited purposes > and is not checked as often as this on the cox.net account. > > Your harness has been modified per the data you provided > and is out of here in tomorrow's mail. > > Bob . . . > >




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