Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:42 AM - Slow Starter (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
2. 06:11 AM - Re: Slow Starter (Werner Schneider)
3. 06:13 AM - Re: internal regulator? (Jim Stone)
4. 06:20 AM - Re: 17-5 (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:21 AM - Re: internal regulator? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 06:22 AM - Re: Sky-Tec starter (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 06:27 AM - Re: Ground block (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 06:32 AM - Re: tools (N1deltawhiskey@aol.com)
9. 06:32 AM - Re: audio isolation amplifier (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 06:36 AM - Re: Noise suppressing intercom (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 06:39 AM - Re: Z-14 modification (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 06:42 AM - Re: MP3 input to panel mounted intercom (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 07:00 AM - Re: SD-8 Voltage (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 07:02 AM - Re: Sky-Tec starter (Jim Stone)
15. 07:40 AM - Manual master switch and starters (klehman@albedo.net)
16. 07:45 AM - Circuit protection and grounds (Hi There)
17. 07:59 AM - Re: Circuit protection and grounds (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 08:04 AM - Re: Manual master switch and starters (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 08:07 AM - Re: Sky-Tec starter (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 08:16 AM - Re: Slow Starter (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 08:17 AM - Re: Fw: Skymap III to Navaid and E.I. Fuel (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
22. 08:19 AM - Re: ARINC X,Y,Z outputs (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 08:40 AM - Re: Thanks Bob (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
24. 08:55 AM - Re: Over-voltage, etc (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
25. 09:01 AM - Re: Fw: Skymap III to Navaid and E.I. Fuel Flow (Richard E. Tasker)
26. 09:14 AM - tip-up canopy C-624 platsic strip or nylok nuts (thomas a. sargent)
27. 09:22 AM - Re: 17-5 (John Schroeder)
28. 09:52 AM - Re: crimpers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
29. 09:52 AM - Figure Z-11 (Larry Landucci)
30. 10:03 AM - Re: ARINC X,Y,Z outputs (Jerzy Krasinski)
31. 10:11 AM - Cut the tree branch (Fergus Kyle)
32. 10:32 AM - Re: Fw: Skymap III to Navaid and E.I. Fuel FlowInstrument (Steve Hamer)
33. 10:56 AM - Re: Fw: Skymap III to Navaid and E.I. Fuel FlowInstrument (Neal A. Dillman)
34. 11:36 AM - Re: Battery Question (Slightly off-topic) (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
35. 11:49 AM - Re: Manual master switch (Charlie Kuss)
36. 12:21 PM - Re: Manual master switch (Dan Branstrom)
37. 12:56 PM - Re: Over-voltage, etc (klehman@albedo.net)
38. 01:29 PM - Re: Over-voltage, etc (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
39. 06:19 PM - King radio connectors (Hi There)
40. 06:40 PM - Re: Slow Starter (Jim Sower)
41. 08:51 PM - Re: King radio connectors (Neal A. Dillman)
42. 10:57 PM - Visio Symbols (Chad Robinson)
43. 11:13 PM - Re: MP3 input to panel mounted intercom (Charlie & Tupper England)
44. 11:15 PM - Re: Visio Symbols (Steve Richard)
45. 11:33 PM - batteries and second alternator choice (Troy Scott)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy listers-
My low compression O-320 has an original Delco-Remy boat anchor starter I
wanted to retain for CG (and $!) reasons, and I am using one of the 17 Ah
Panasonic batteries. Spun nicely with the plugs out, but yesterday I put in the
plugs and it will barely turn over- the blades almost stopping on each compression
stroke. Battery voltage shows 12.63. Anyone else used this combination
successfully or am I going to have to send B&C some more $$$?!
Thanks from The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Slow Starter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
Mark,
check your engine to ground connection, I had a similar experience with a
SkyTech starter.
On the engine housing I did not remove all the paint, that then grounded my
engine through the throttle control, they got hot?? I then used a jumper
cable direct from the battery to the exhaust and it started immediately. I
did then know where to search!
Check and let us know
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Slow Starter
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> Howdy listers-
>
> My low compression O-320 has an original Delco-Remy boat anchor starter I
> wanted to retain for CG (and $!) reasons, and I am using one of the 17 Ah
> Panasonic batteries. Spun nicely with the plugs out, but yesterday I put
in the
> plugs and it will barely turn over- the blades almost stopping on each
compression
> stroke. Battery voltage shows 12.63. Anyone else used this combination
> successfully or am I going to have to send B&C some more $$$?!
>
> Thanks from The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | internal regulator? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
Troy,
You are right. You will need to pick up a regulator and crowbar
protection. The folks at B&C have a nice unit called an LR3C for
228.00. See the like below. Do a search for more info, there has been
plenty of post on subject.
Jim
http://www.bandcspecialty.com/parts.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Troy
Scott
Subject: AeroElectric-List: internal regulator?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott"
<tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
Gentlemen,
The alternator that came on my Demars Aero Lycoming is a B&C Part# L-60,
serial# 07504010. I'm thinking this probably does NOT have an internal
regulator, right?
Regards,
Troy Scott
tscott1217@bellsouth.net
Glasair Super IISRG, N360TS
==
==
==
==
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:57 AM 1/3/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott"
><tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
>
>Gentlemen,
>
>First, I apologize for so many posts in one day. I've really been studying,
>and that's generated a lot of questions!
>
>For my situation, I think probably the 17-5 (Z-14) drawing, "Dual
>Alternator, Dual Battery Electrical Systems" seems most appropriate. I
>don't see the "essentials buss" in this scheme. Am I just missing it?, or
>is no longer really necessary with this much redundancy?
The "essential bus" is going to be renamed "endurance bus"
in future revisions. The philosophy for this architecture is
to provide (1) dual power pathways to items necessary
for comfortable completion of flight and (2) easy configuration
management for achieving minimum power consumption in a
battery-only operation. When add a second electrical system
both points become non-issues and the e-bus is not necessary.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: internal regulator? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:48 AM 1/3/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott"
><tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
>
>Gentlemen,
>
>The alternator that came on my Demars Aero Lycoming is a B&C Part# L-60,
>serial# 07504010. I'm thinking this probably does NOT have an internal
>regulator, right?
No B&C alternator comes with built in regulator.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Sky-Tec starter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:48 AM 1/3/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott"
><tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
>
>Gentlemen,
>
>The starter that came on my Demars Aero Lycoming is a Sky-Tec Model
>#149-12PM. I'm guessing that the "PM" means "permanent magnet", and that I
>should probably add Bob's Fig.Z-22, "Fix for 'run-on' in starters with
>permanent magnet motors" to my electrical system plans. Thoughts?
If getting the best starter wasn't an option for me, then
adding the run-on eliminator would be a good idea.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:25 PM 1/1/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
>I was preparing to order a ground block from B&C and noticed they are out
>of stock till "late January." Anyone have another source for these?
These are a proprietary design offered by nobody else that
I'm aware of.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N1deltawhiskey@aol.com
Troy,
Not sure of the items listed below. I have installed the Dynon EFIS and
Apollo GX60 and SL70, and cannot even imagine what the Dynon "installation kit"
consist of.
For all of these, the only tool I have needed is the B&C crimper for the
machined head D-sub pins, an insertion/removal tool, and the appropriate D-sub
mating connectors. With the exception of the crimper, the other items are
available from B&C and some electronic parts suppliers.
Doug
In a message dated 1/1/2004 12:13:58 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tscott1217@bellsouth.net writes:
> I see that the Aeroelectric Connection/B&C has a tool kit for the Dynon EFIS
> installation. That's really cool. Now I also need some other tools called
> out for the SL30 and the BMA EFIS One, etc.. Here is the list of all the
> tools my installation books say I need so far:
>
> Dynon Kit from AeroElectric/B&C
> Daniels Manufacturing AF8M (for DSub)
> Astro Tool part# 615708 crimp tool
> Astro Tool part# 616356 positioner
> ITT Cannon part# 274-7006-000 (Desc. CIET-20HD) insertion tool
> ITT Cannon part# 995-0001-585 (Desc. M22520/1-01) regular duty crimp tool
> ITT Cannon part# 995-0001-244 (Desc. TH25) regular duty locator tool
>
> QUESTIONS (always):
> Are some of these redundant?
> What do I actually need to buy?
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: audio isolation amplifier |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:46 PM 1/2/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott"
><tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
>
>I've seen the "Audio Isolation Amplifier Project" in the catalog section of
>the 'Connection. Can someone please explain to what it's for?
It's used just as the wiring diagrams in the instructions
suggest: See
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9009/9009-700D.pdf
It provides a handy means by which multiple audio sources
can be brought together into the headphones system and
allow independent control of gain to balance volume
of the various sources.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Noise suppressing intercom |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
There ARE things intercom manufacturers could do. Micro-controllers
are dirt cheap nowadays. One could devise signal processing software
to (1) concentrate on voice characteristics as signals to be passed
along and (2) measure the ration of (1) with respect to cabin noise
to decide when squelch should be open or closed. This kind of intercom
would not even have a squelch control knob . . . it would be constantly
processing cabin ambient (including your voice) for optimum filtering
and squelch threshold setting.
At 12:33 PM 1/1/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Chalmers"
><David@ChalmersFamily.com>
>
>There is an intercom that does something similar - see
>http://www.flighttech.com I have been using it for 100 hours and it works.
>No squelch to set and it filters out engine noise even when you're
>talking. It does add some minor distortion at times but I'll take it over
>fiddling with a squelch control any day. Note that when you press the PTT
>it turns off the noise cancelling and pipes you voice direct to the radio
>- then you can really hear how much background noise it was suppressing. I
>asked them whether they could leave the noise suppression engaged during
>PTT and they said they are thinking about it. My only complaint with the
>unit is the tiny connector which makes wiring a challenge.
>
>Dave
Yup, they don't tell us what kind of technology is used
to achieve performance . . . but this is exactly the
design philosophy every intercom manufacturer should be
striving for. Their prices are attractive too. I think
this is a product very much worth considering.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Z-14 modification |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:26 PM 1/1/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: TimRhod@aol.com
>
>Bob: Im building an all electric velocity ( duel electronic ignition
>and all electric panel) I am going to use Z-14 and I am thinking about the
>following modification. I want to have an avionics bus; feed from the
>main bus
>through a diode to the avionics bus. Another feed from the auxillary bus
>through a diode to the avionics bus. No avionics master switches. Then a
>feed from
>each battery bus through a switch that can select which battery I want to run
>off of. None, Main, or Aux. This gives me quad feed capabilities to my
>flight insturments and radios. Any problem with this arrangement that I
>am not
>seeing.
I don't see that this is necessary but it's your airplane.
Z-14 as published with modern alternators and batteries
already offers 100x the system reliability of contemporary
light aircraft. But if more options floats your boat,
have at it.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: MP3 input to panel mounted intercom |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:17 PM 1/1/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charles Brame
><charleyb@earthlink.net>
>
>Bob, et.al.,
>
>I want to use an MP3 player through my SL-10MS intercom. The intercom
>has stereo music input wiring, but I am a loss as to how to wire a MP3
>player to it.
>
>Most of the MP3 players (and CD players) I have looked at only have an
>output for headphones. As I understand it, you should not hook headphone
>or speaker output directly to an intercom input.
>
>How should a generic MP3 player, or any other music source, be connected
>to a panel intercom system?
If your panel intercom is does not feature a "music input"
then it's going to take some experimentation . . . or you
can add a audio isolation/mixer amplifier to your system
as described in:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AEC/9009/9009-700D.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: SD-8 Voltage |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:04 AM 1/1/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow"
><willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
>I=92m flying with a basic Z-8 system (one 40 amp main and one SD-8) in my
>RV-8. My ESS BUS is pretty much loaded up to the maximum, especially when
>transmitting.
There's no particular advantage to providing enough
head-room in alternator sizing to cover intermittent
loads like transmitting or trim motor ops.
>When I check the SD-8, the load is almost always in the top yellow band,
>which I would think is quite normal because of the ESS BUS load. The
>problem is that sometimes if the load gets to high the LOW voltage light
>comes on and system voltage drops to around 12.2 volts. Reducing the load
>will cause the voltage to increase and the LOW voltage light goes out.
>
>
>I this normal? What I mean is, as the load goes up above a certain value,
>does the voltage produced start to drop?
Yup, every alternator will do just that irrespective of
it's size. Overload it and the voltage will sag. What
stuff is powered from the e-bus?
Bob . . .
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
Bob,
1. Does B&C offer a run-on eliminator for PM starters?
2. Where would you locate the current limiter or shunt? I'm building a
Rocket, and using the firewall ground terminal pass-thru that B&C sells.
I was thinking I would have fewer wires penetrating the firewall if I
located it on the C/p side near the firewall ground terminal and
connecting it with a short jumper of say #4 or #6 wire. I've seen shunts
on both sides of the FW.
3. The flexible battery cable that B&C sells in custom lengths, is it a
generic cable that may also be used in marine applications? Is the
conductor copper with a tin coating? Or is it aircraft wire with Tefzel
insulation.
4. Since all the interconnections between batteries and contactors are
short runs, could I use #4 wire? (I'm using #2 wire from aft batteries
to FW.)
Thanks
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Sky-Tec starter
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:48 AM 1/3/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott"
><tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
>
>Gentlemen,
>
>The starter that came on my Demars Aero Lycoming is a Sky-Tec Model
>#149-12PM. I'm guessing that the "PM" means "permanent magnet", and
that I
>should probably add Bob's Fig.Z-22, "Fix for 'run-on' in starters with
>permanent magnet motors" to my electrical system plans. Thoughts?
If getting the best starter wasn't an option for me, then
adding the run-on eliminator would be a good idea.
Bob . . .
==
==
==
==
Message 15
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| Subject: | Manual master switch and starters |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: klehman@albedo.net
Hmmm - Yes - but just to be clear, are any of the Lycoming/Continental
starters like my very old tractor where there is no internal solenoid
that assists starter gear movement and no internal contacts? That
arrangement would necessitate an external contactor that I would think
almost has to be more prone to stick than internal contacts. It seems
the internal ones get strong mechanical feedback to help disengage the
solenoid and contacts when the engine has started.
thanks
Ken
> It's not the starter that sticks but the starter contactor.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Circuit protection and grounds |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Hi There <rv90619@yahoo.com>
Now I thought I had this figured out after reading the Connection, but after going
over the archives I'm not sure.
I'm trying to calculate the wire sizes for several lights on my plane. I have
a metal plane but was still planning on using a ground wire going back to the
ground buss for the wingtip strobes, landing lights and position lights. Calculating
the wires going out there is pretty easy, but I'm a bit stuck on the common
ground wire size. Since the ground isn't really protected by the fuses
I think all I have to do is size it for the load attached to that ground wire.
Correct?????
landing lights 5a
strobe power 2 a
position light 2a
So I think I need a ground wire for a 10 amp load.
Am I just out in left field here?
Thanks
Cam
---------------------------------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Circuit protection and grounds |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:44 AM 1/2/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Hi There <rv90619@yahoo.com>
>
>Now I thought I had this figured out after reading the Connection, but
>after going over the archives I'm not sure.
>
>I'm trying to calculate the wire sizes for several lights on my plane. I
>have a metal plane but was still planning on using a ground wire going
>back to the ground buss for the wingtip strobes, landing lights and
>position lights.
You can do this but since lights are neither strong antagonists
nor victims, local grounds are fine.
> Calculating the wires going out there is pretty easy, but I'm a bit
> stuck on the common ground wire size. Since the ground isn't really
> protected by the fuses I think all I have to do is size it for the load
> attached to that ground wire. Correct?????
>
>landing lights 5a
>strobe power 2 a
>position light 2a
>
>So I think I need a ground wire for a 10 amp load.
"A" ground wire? If you choose to run grounds independent
of the airframe, EACH accessory should have it's own ground
wire. Ground wires are the same size as power wires. Using a
common ground creates a single point of failure for all
accessories. I'd strongly recommend local grounds for these
items.
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Manual master switch and starters |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:42 AM 1/2/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: klehman@albedo.net
>
>Hmmm - Yes - but just to be clear, are any of the Lycoming/Continental
>starters like my very old tractor where there is no internal solenoid
>that assists starter gear movement and no internal contacts?
ALL Prestolite style starters for Lyc's use Bendix drives
for indirect engagement of pinion gear and have no internal
contactor for power control.
> That
>arrangement would necessitate an external contactor that I would think
>almost has to be more prone to stick than internal contacts.
A contactor is a contactor be it internal or external. Moving
parts that carry the starter motor current are subject to
welding if operated outside their design envelope.
> It seems
>the internal ones get strong mechanical feedback to help disengage the
>solenoid and contacts when the engine has started.
>thanks
Depends on the design. Contactors and direct engagement
pinion gears do not have to share a common disengagement
spring. This is the case on B&C's starters. We've had
customers stick the contactor such that the motor continued
to run after the engine started and the pinion was retracted.
Bob . . .
Message 19
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:01 AM 1/2/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Stone" <jrstone@insightbb.com>
>
>Bob,
>1. Does B&C offer a run-on eliminator for PM starters?
S704-1 relay
>2. Where would you locate the current limiter or shunt? I'm building a
>Rocket, and using the firewall ground terminal pass-thru that B&C sells.
>I was thinking I would have fewer wires penetrating the firewall if I
>located it on the C/p side near the firewall ground terminal and
>connecting it with a short jumper of say #4 or #6 wire. I've seen shunts
>on both sides of the FW.
Limiter and shunt would mount as close as practical
to starter contactor on engine side of firewall.
>3. The flexible battery cable that B&C sells in custom lengths, is it a
>generic cable that may also be used in marine applications? Is the
>conductor copper with a tin coating? Or is it aircraft wire with Tefzel
>insulation.
It's welding cable. No tin coating on conductors. Welding
cable is preferred for its flexibility.
>4. Since all the interconnections between batteries and contactors are
>short runs, could I use #4 wire? (I'm using #2 wire from aft batteries
>to FW.)
Yes.
Bob . . .
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Slow Starter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:42 AM 1/2/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Howdy listers-
>
>My low compression O-320 has an original Delco-Remy boat anchor starter I
>wanted to retain for CG (and $!) reasons, and I am using one of the 17 Ah
>Panasonic batteries. Spun nicely with the plugs out, but yesterday I put
>in the
>plugs and it will barely turn over- the blades almost stopping on each
>compression
>stroke. Battery voltage shows 12.63. Anyone else used this combination
>successfully or am I going to have to send B&C some more $$$?!
You need DATA to tell you where to look next.
Measure VOLTAGE at both battery terminals and then at
starter terminals while cranking. This is best done
with an analog meter . . . digital meters will jump
around a lot and not give you a good sense of what's
really happening. See figure 2-3 in 'Connection
for a description of cranking circuit analysis. Somewhere
in the system you're going to find a "hole in the dike"
where most of all your cranking electrons are leaking.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Skymap III to Navaid and E.I. Fuel |
Flow Instrument
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Flow Instrument
At 02:42 PM 1/1/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Hamer" <s.hamer@verizon.net>
>
>
>Does anyone know if it's okay to split the "data out" wire from the Skymap
>GPS to feed info to the Navaid and the E.I. fuel flow gauge.
If we're talking about RS-232 serial data, it's an uncommon
signal source that won't drive two or more signal loads
quite nicely.
Bob . . .
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: ARINC X,Y,Z outputs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:24 PM 1/1/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski
><krasinski@direcway.com>
>
> Many NAV devices like RMI or HSI require input from "any slaved
>magnetic compass with ARINC X,Y,Z outputs".
>I guess these are probably signals from a compass synchro, and the
>question is if the synchro is 24V/400Hz or 110V/400Hz. Or are these
>signals something different?
I think that's right. When they call out three signal
paths, it's usually the "three-phase" stator signal
from a synchro. Two phase will usually be called sine/cosine.
Bob . . .
Message 23
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:45 AM 1/1/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
>
>Bob Nuckolls III:
>Thanks for another year of tremendous support. I am one of the very
>challenged experimental aircraft builders who, without your guidance and
>educational resources (seminar, book, website and list), would never have
>ventured as far. My wife and others look at the work that has been
>accomplished, with your help, and ask "you didn't do that by yourself did
>you"? Thank you Bob for your efforts meking our aviation efforts safer
>and more effective. God bless you and Happy New Year!
>Dave Aronson
Thank you sir . . . and many others who have offered
appreciative comments. I couldn't do it if it wasn't
fun. I'm not going to have the time/opportunity to build
one myself. However, I'm looking forward to being a
participant in perhaps thousands of airplanes with
other builders. After professionally slogging through
the quagmire that is certified aviation, you folks
are a validation for me of the best that aviation CAN
be. All-in-all I think a most satisfactory deal for
all concerned.
Bob . . .
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Over-voltage, etc |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:25 AM 1/1/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: klehman@albedo.net
>
>I wouldn't think that a starter-engaged light is essential for a
>personal aircraft. In most cases a glance at the voltmeter or ammeter as
>soon as idle is achieved should show whether the battery is charging.
>Most won't be if the starter is still spinning.
If one chooses to leave diagnostics tools off the panel
and go with a low-voltage warning light as the primary
electrical system instrumentation for flight, then a
"starter engaged" light is even more of a good deal.
Beech put them on the Sierra (probably a $high$ option
on the Sundowner).
>However if the starter is spinning madly and one opens the battery
>contactor, is there any chance that the starter is now a generator that
>could feed a short overvoltage to the rest of the electrical system?
No, all starters have over-run clutches of one kind
or another. If they did not, the starter's life after
getting the engine running would be measured in milliseconds.
The armature already spins pretty fast to get the necessary
horsepower to crank the engine at 200-400 rpm. Once the engine
starts, a back-driven armature would be spun up to several times
it's design speed. This usually trows armature wires out
of the slots and jams the motor or strips gear teeth.
The reason that some pilots have reported first notification
of starter contactor sticking by observations of other
instruments is the fact that NO LOAD current on these
horribly inefficient motors can be on the order of
50 amps. This is a significant drain on the electrical
system at ramp idle speeds for engine.
A starter engaged light is, for the time and dollars spent,
a really good deal. Keeping your engine tuned to start
in a few blades combined with periodic battery maintenance
is a better deal. Contactors run long and happy in a
system that is maintained well and performs well.
> My
>solid state electronics experience has been that bad things happen when
>the stabilizing effect of a battery is removed from a system. Probably
>part of the reason that I'm leery of battery contactors...
How does your experience relate to the history of
battery contactor performance in aircraft? In 40
years of hammer'n on airplanes, the ov events I've worked
that damaged airplane accessories were due to
poorly designed or non-existent ov protection systems.
In my experience, a battery contactor failure has
never been root cause of a damage scenario to
other components in the system.
Well considered design supported by good maintenance
is the key to long and satisfactory service life.
Certified ships are seldom blessed with either.
Bob . . .
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Skymap III to Navaid and E.I. Fuel Flow |
Instrument
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Instrument
If you are confused by the wording of Bob's answer (as I was upon first
reading), what he is saying is, yes it is almost guaranteed to be okay.
Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Flow Instrument
>
>At 02:42 PM 1/1/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Hamer" <s.hamer@verizon.net>
>>
>>
>>Does anyone know if it's okay to split the "data out" wire from the Skymap
>>GPS to feed info to the Navaid and the E.I. fuel flow gauge.
>>
>>
>
> If we're talking about RS-232 serial data, it's an uncommon
> signal source that won't drive two or more signal loads
> quite nicely.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | tip-up canopy C-624 platsic strip or nylok nuts |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
I just drilled my tip-up canopy to the canopy frame. The plans call
for the screws that go thru the side rails and the plexiglass to be
screwed into the C-624 plastic strip along the inside of the frame.
Seems to me that just some washers and nuts would be better. Does any
one have an opinion on this?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A QB
Message 27
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Hi Troy -
We are using this system in our Lancair ES. With the ability to crossfeed
power under any combination of failures, I don't think it is necessary.
With any failure, it is prudent to reduce loads where it is feasible under
the condition of flight you are in.
Cheers,
John
Message 28
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:31 PM 1/1/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>I have sent this to the list I thought but apparently I don't know how to.
> Can you use the Hex Crimpers sold by B&C to crimp the round amp BNC
> connectors?
Yes.
See http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/bnccrimp.pdf
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( A beginning of the end is marked by )
( replacement of experience and common )
( sense with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
--------------------------------------------
Message 29
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Larry Landucci <lllanducci@tds.net>
Bob;
In the generic electrical system schematic (Fig Z-11), I don't
understand the advantage of the 5A breaker between the master switch
and the LR-3 controller plus a fuselink at the main power bus. In the
schematic supplied by B&C for the LR-3 a 5A breaker is shown between
the main power bus and the master and no fuselink is used.
I was considering using a 5A fuse instead of the breaker and going with
the B&C schematic -- any disadvantage?
Thanks for your time,
LarryL
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: ARINC X,Y,Z outputs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski@direcway.com>
Thank you Bob,
Jerzy
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
> I think that's right. When they call out three signal
> paths, it's usually the "three-phase" stator signal
> from a synchro. Two phase will usually be called sine/cosine.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Cut the tree branch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Eric Jones:
>I have a large branch that overhangs where I park my Jeep (The wife's
>Minivan and the Glastar are in the garage). I can't get reach the branch.
My
>friend says that I can cut it off by using a battery and a nichrome wire
>thrown over the branch.
Eric,
Yes, I know. These tasks are onerous at best:
PREPARATION
1. Move the Jeep until the falling branch will miss it.
2. Jack up the rear wheels.
3. Remove the nearest wheel and substitute a 1ft diam reel.
4 Buy 40 survivor saws (the small cylindrical pullsaws) and join into
one.
PROCEDURE
5. Use a lead weight to guide fishing line over the branch, and join saw
to one end.
6. With a stout rope joining the ends of [4], coil this onto the wheel.
7. Start jeep in neutral.
8. Taking care to utilize only the saw portion, shift into first, then
alternate in reverse.
9. When you hear a cracking noise, ensure you are in first and kick out
the jack.
CLEANUP
10. Apply the 40 saws to eBAY, and sweep up the sawdust.
11. Simply add a fireplace to the living room and burn the branch.
Ferg
PS: A warm and successful 2004 to you.
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Skymap III to Navaid and E.I. Fuel FlowInstrument |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Hamer" <s.hamer@verizon.net>
The more I read, the confusder I get! Yes it is RS232 serial data according
to my manuals. For the benefit of my electrically challenged mind, please
check one:
0 Yes, it will work
0 No, it won't work
Thanks,
Steve
> If you are confused by the wording of Bob's answer (as I was upon first
> reading), what he is saying is, yes it is almost guaranteed to be okay.
>
> Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
>
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net> Flow Instrument
> >
> >At 02:42 PM 1/1/2004 -0800, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Hamer"
<s.hamer@verizon.net>
> >>
> >>
> >>Does anyone know if it's okay to split the "data out" wire from the
Skymap
> >>GPS to feed info to the Navaid and the E.I. fuel flow gauge.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > If we're talking about RS-232 serial data, it's an uncommon
> > signal source that won't drive two or more signal loads
> > quite nicely.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Skymap III to Navaid and E.I. Fuel FlowInstrument |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neal A. Dillman" <neald@glyph.com>
Steve,
Bob and I both said (roughly) the same thing:
Yes, it will work.
Regards,
Neal
Steve Hamer wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Hamer" <s.hamer@verizon.net>
>
>The more I read, the confusder I get! Yes it is RS232 serial data according
>to my manuals. For the benefit of my electrically challenged mind, please
>check one:
>
>0 Yes, it will work
>
>0 No, it won't work
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve
>
>
>
>
>>If you are confused by the wording of Bob's answer (as I was upon first
>>reading), what he is saying is, yes it is almost guaranteed to be okay.
>>
>>Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
>>
>>Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>>>
>>>
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net> Flow Instrument
>
>
>>>At 02:42 PM 1/1/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Hamer"
>>>>
>>>>
><s.hamer@verizon.net>
>
>
>>>>Does anyone know if it's okay to split the "data out" wire from the
>>>>
>>>>
>Skymap
>
>
>>>>GPS to feed info to the Navaid and the E.I. fuel flow gauge.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> If we're talking about RS-232 serial data, it's an uncommon
>>> signal source that won't drive two or more signal loads
>>> quite nicely.
>>>
>>> Bob . . .
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Question (Slightly off-topic) |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
> >Throw a rope first, attach the other end to the battery, etc...
> >do not archive
Better yet, get an RV-9, pack the battery & wire in it, then when nobody's
looking.....
Mark- should be out finishing the plane instead of this!! 8-)
p.s. Remember your -9 would have to be a slider, cause you'd never get the
tipper opened!
p.p.s Even better yet, while inverted, air carefully, then pull the BRS
release handle....
p.p.p.s. ....all whilst accompanied by Wagners "Flight of the Valkerie" via
MP3 at "maximum volume"!
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Manual master switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Ken,
While a stuck starter is not common on cars, it does happen. My first experience
with this was in the late 70s. I was a mechanic at a large Dodge dealership.
The starter stayed engaged after the engine started. (Winter time, 2200 rpm
start) Upon disassembly, the innards looked like an explosion in a copper wire
factory!
I've seen this phenomenon occur on all makes of cars. Lucas failures tended to
result in severe fires. (insert favorite Lucas joke here) :-)
Charlie Kuss
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: klehman@albedo.net
>
>> What do you do if the starter contactor sticks? How
>> do you drive all the fat wires to "max cold" in anticipation
>> of an unplanned arrival with the earth?
>
>How come I never seem to hear about automotive starters getting stuck
>on? Does the accelerating flywheel more forcibly disengage the starter
>gear and contacts on those? I've had several automotive starter failures
>but don't know anyone who has had a stuck on one. Anyway a small battery
>won't last too long if it does stick which puts the risk of fire pretty
>much up to what the battery does. Since you know of at least one RG
>battery that melted in an airplane that may be a concern. Are Lycoming
>starters more prone to sticking than automotive units or just more
>talked about when it happens?
>
>Most of us have seen cars cranked until dead without a battery fire or
>meltdown... I'm talking about cranking till dead not a shorted battery
>terminal situation where all of the energy is heating the battery.
snipped
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Manual master switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Branstrom" <danbranstrom@verizon.net>
For the worldwide Lucas Electrics Lovers Website, go to :
http://members.tripod.com/~tcotrel/lucas.html
For other sites, try,
http://www.afu.com/rolls/lucas.html
http://www.britcycle.com/Manuals/prince_of_darkness.htm
http://www.gomog.com/articles/lucas.html
Do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Manual master switch
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
<chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Ken,
> While a stuck starter is not common on cars, it does happen. My first
experience with this was in the late 70s. I was a mechanic at a large Dodge
dealership. The starter stayed engaged after the engine started. (Winter
time, 2200 rpm start) Upon disassembly, the innards looked like an explosion
in a copper wire factory!
> I've seen this phenomenon occur on all makes of cars. Lucas failures
tended to result in severe fires. (insert favorite Lucas joke here) :-)
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: klehman@albedo.net
> >
> >> What do you do if the starter contactor sticks? How
> >> do you drive all the fat wires to "max cold" in anticipation
> >> of an unplanned arrival with the earth?
> >
> >How come I never seem to hear about automotive starters getting stuck
> >on? Does the accelerating flywheel more forcibly disengage the starter
> >gear and contacts on those? I've had several automotive starter failures
> >but don't know anyone who has had a stuck on one. Anyway a small battery
> >won't last too long if it does stick which puts the risk of fire pretty
> >much up to what the battery does. Since you know of at least one RG
> >battery that melted in an airplane that may be a concern. Are Lycoming
> >starters more prone to sticking than automotive units or just more
> >talked about when it happens?
> >
> >Most of us have seen cars cranked until dead without a battery fire or
> >meltdown... I'm talking about cranking till dead not a shorted battery
> >terminal situation where all of the energy is heating the battery.
> snipped
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Over-voltage, etc |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: klehman@albedo.net
OK I'm reading very carefully and learning but lets start over as my
wording was incomplete.
Imagine that the engine has been started and is idling. I notice that
the system voltage is abnormally low and the battery is discharging. Or
maybe I did install that starter-engaged light and the darn thing is on.
What to do, what to do? Suspecting a stuck starter contactor, I turn off
the battery master, which disconnects the battery but leaves the rest of
the electrical system connected to the starter. Since there is no diode
across the starter it would seem that there has to be some reverse
voltage applied to my electrical system. If my starter only drew an amp
I'd have a diode across it to prevent this but there is no diode and 50
amps was flowing. I understand that some (I don't know how much) of the
energy will dissipate in the arc as the battery contactor opens but I am
also aware of instances where my automotive efi computer has gone poof
in a fraction of a second when inadvertantly fed 12 volts of reverse
polarity. In this case I wouldn't be worried about that efi computer
because it is still connected to the battery bus. But what about the
avionics and engine monitor that are still connected to the starter?
Will they shrug off an event like that or are steps warranted to prevent
it? Have I saved my battery only to smoke more expensive stuff?
The above scenario is not a regular occurrence but it touches on much of
my concern about using a battery contactor as per Z-14. Is it a valid
concern? Has there been any testing for (negative) spikes in a scenario
like the above?
thanks again
Ken
>snip
> How does your experience relate to the history of
> battery contactor performance in aircraft? In 40
> years of hammer'n on airplanes, the ov events I've worked
> that damaged airplane accessories were due to
> poorly designed or non-existent ov protection systems.
> In my experience, a battery contactor failure has
> never been root cause of a damage scenario to
> other components in the system.
>
> Well considered design supported by good maintenance
> is the key to long and satisfactory service life.
> Certified ships are seldom blessed with either.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Over-voltage, etc |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:00 PM 1/2/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: klehman@albedo.net
>
>OK I'm reading very carefully and learning but lets start over as my
>wording was incomplete.
>
>Imagine that the engine has been started and is idling. I notice that
>the system voltage is abnormally low and the battery is discharging. Or
>maybe I did install that starter-engaged light and the darn thing is on.
>What to do, what to do? Suspecting a stuck starter contactor, I turn off
>the battery master, which disconnects the battery but leaves the rest of
>the electrical system connected to the starter. Since there is no diode
>across the starter it would seem that there has to be some reverse
>voltage applied to my electrical system. If my starter only drew an amp
>I'd have a diode across it to prevent this but there is no diode and 50
>amps was flowing.
Motors are not as inductive as you might think. Recall the
discussions on motor performance a few weeks ago. 12v motors
don't run on 12v, they run on the DIFFERENCE between applied
voltage (12v) and counter emf (several volts below applied).
When you unhook a running motor, the only "kick" you get
is from a very small amount of leakage inductance . . . the
energies are small and no-lethal to other components in your
system.
> I understand that some (I don't know how much) of the
>energy will dissipate in the arc as the battery contactor opens but I am
>also aware of instances where my automotive efi computer has gone poof
>in a fraction of a second when inadvertantly fed 12 volts of reverse
>polarity.
Which is a HUGE energy source . . .
> In this case I wouldn't be worried about that efi computer
>because it is still connected to the battery bus. But what about the
>avionics and engine monitor that are still connected to the starter?
>Will they shrug off an event like that or are steps warranted to prevent
>it? Have I saved my battery only to smoke more expensive stuff?
"saved the battery?" Oh, okay, you were hypothesizing about
leaving the battery on and letting the event go to completion.
>The above scenario is not a regular occurrence but it touches on much of
>my concern about using a battery contactor as per Z-14. Is it a valid
>concern? Has there been any testing for (negative) spikes in a scenario
>like the above?
. . . I did some informal studies on this years ago at
Electromech on some smaller motors. I don't have any
reason to believe that the starters are much different
but I can probably put my hands on one to find out.
First, if you take care of the batteries (yearly rotation
schedule or periodic testing and discard when capacity drops
below some nominal value 50-70%) and use both batteries
to start, sticking starter contactors are not going to be
an issue for you anyhow. It's already a very rare event
in the certified world where it's most likely to happen.
I think your worries are without foundation in physics
or practice . . . but it's your airplane and nobody from
Washington is going to stand over you an threaten loss
of liberty for having wired it any way you wish.
Bob . . .
Message 39
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| Subject: | King radio connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Hi There <rv90619@yahoo.com>
Where can I find the connectors for the back of a King radio. I bought a used
radio and want to rewire it.
Thanks
Cam
---------------------------------
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Slow Starter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Sower <canarder@frontiernet.net>
<... Spun nicely with the plugs out, but yesterday I put in the plugs and it will
barely turn
over- the blades almost stopping on each compression stroke ...>
My quick and dirty trouble shoot (works about 90% of the time:
1. Measure voltage at battery cable lugs. Usually very low, like 6-8V.
2. Measure voltage at battery post. Usually high, like 11V
3. Disconnect and polish post and lug. Reconnect, start engine and go flying.
I very rarely need anything beyond a voltmeter to trouble shoot a starting system
.... Jim S.
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: King radio connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neal A. Dillman" <neald@glyph.com>
Cam,
You will need to be more specific. Which King radio?
-Neal-
Hi There wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Hi There <rv90619@yahoo.com>
>
>Where can I find the connectors for the back of a King radio. I bought a used
radio and want to rewire it.
>
>Thanks
>Cam
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Robinson <crobinson@rfgonline.com>
Hello all,
I have been working on a Visio symbol stencil set based on Bob's CAD symbols -
Bob, I hope you don't mind. I'm doing 5-10 a day as time permits, so this
first copy is just a test set to be sure it works, but I'd appreciate it if a
few people would download the file and check it out. Visio 2000 or higher is
required.
If this works out I'll incorporate most of the major symbols this weekend,
then do the rest a few at a time as time permits. Check back periodically for
updates.
http://www.lucubration.com/aero/
Regards,
Chad
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: MP3 input to panel mounted intercom |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Charles Brame wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charles Brame <charleyb@earthlink.net>
>
>Bob, et.al.,
>
>I want to use an MP3 player through my SL-10MS intercom. The intercom
>has stereo music input wiring, but I am a loss as to how to wire a MP3
>player to it.
>
>Most of the MP3 players (and CD players) I have looked at only have an
>output for headphones. As I understand it, you should not hook headphone
>or speaker output directly to an intercom input.
>
>How should a generic MP3 player, or any other music source, be connected
>to a panel intercom system?
>
>Charlie Brame
>RV-6A N11CB
>San Antonio
>
The headphone output of a battery powered device like a cd player or mp3
player (likely power supply voltage 3 V) is very unlikely to overdrive
the aux inputs of an intercom. Just make up a cable to interface the
headphone output to the intercom, hook it up, & start with the player's
volume control at minimum. Power everything up & with the player
playing, slowly raise its volume until you get a usable signal into your
headphones.
You might even have a problem with inadequate signal level. If you do,
you might need to check out Bob's 'isolation amplifier'.
Charlie
Message 44
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Richard" <steve@oasissolutions.com>
Chad,
Can you post some instructions on how to import your symbols into Visio?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chad
Robinson
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Visio Symbols
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chad Robinson
<crobinson@rfgonline.com>
Hello all,
I have been working on a Visio symbol stencil set based on Bob's CAD
symbols -
Bob, I hope you don't mind. I'm doing 5-10 a day as time permits, so this
first copy is just a test set to be sure it works, but I'd appreciate it if
a
few people would download the file and check it out. Visio 2000 or higher is
required.
If this works out I'll incorporate most of the major symbols this weekend,
then do the rest a few at a time as time permits. Check back periodically
for
updates.
http://www.lucubration.com/aero/
Regards,
Chad
Message 45
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| Subject: | batteries and second alternator choice |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott" <tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
Gentlemen,
I've been studying the battery situation. I'm thinking I'll probably
implement Bob's "mother of all electrical systems" with two batteries and
two alternators for my Glasair Super II. I've found the following two 12v
12ah batteries:
PowerSonic PS-12100-F2
Panasonic RA1212P1
Do these two fit the bill? Have any of you had experience with either of
them?
I also checked out two 17ah batteries that Bob specifically recommended in
another post:
PowerSonic PS12180
Panasonic LCRD1217P
The recommended system connects the two batteries together for starting, so
it seems to me that two smaller and lighter 12ah batteries should crank my
normal-compression IO360 just fine. The only thing that bothers me is that
the connectors on the smaller batteries are small, "fast-on" types.
Thoughts? I'm thinking I might install the two batteries on the aft side of
the firewall where installing and removing will be a little awkward. That's
one reason why the 9 pound ones are much more attractive than the 14 pound
ones.
Also, I'm thinking I'd like to use the SD-8 PM-type alternator as the second
one. The primary one is a B&C 60. Thoughts?
Regards,
Troy Scott
tscott1217@bellsouth.net
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