AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Wed 01/07/04


Total Messages Posted: 17



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:35 AM - Fw: RV-8 (Werner Schneider)
     2. 07:44 AM - Re: Re: SD-8 cap (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     3. 08:33 AM - Re: Single connector for instrument panel? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
     4. 09:34 AM - Molex terminals (Rick Johnson)
     5. 10:11 AM - Starters: Sky-Tec/B&C/Magnaflite... Setting the Record Straight (Rich Chiappe)
     6. 10:53 AM - Re: Starters: Sky-Tec/B&C/Magnaflite... (Trudy Ettelson)
     7. 01:11 PM - Re: Molex terminals (plaurence@the-beach.net)
     8. 01:19 PM - Re: Re: Single connector for instrument panel? (Scott, Ian)
     9. 01:51 PM - Stein Bruch Alive Redux (Hebeard2@aol.com)
    10. 03:56 PM - Re: Stein Bruch alive? (HCRV6@aol.com)
    11. 04:47 PM - Re: single connector for instrument panel? (Dave Morris)
    12. 06:02 PM - Re: single connector for instrument panel? Jabiru (Jim Bean)
    13. 08:17 PM - Buttsplice vs. Solder Heatshrink? (hollandm)
    14. 08:26 PM - Battery Bus Lead Length? (hollandm)
    15. 08:49 PM - Starters: Setting the Record Straight (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    16. 09:28 PM - Keeping Cables Separated (Don Boardman)
    17. 10:24 PM - Low Density 9-PIN D-Sub Dust cover.... (Jack Lockamy)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:35:57 AM PST US
    From: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
    Subject: Fw: RV-8
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com> Sorry was intended to be directly sent! do not archive


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:44:26 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: RE: SD-8 cap
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 08:31 PM 1/6/2004 -0600, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com> > >The value isn't critical. The larger the value, the larger the charge it >can store and the more the cap will look like a "battery" in case the >battery isn't there. > >Dave Morris Dave is correct. B&C's drawings for recommended capacitor does indeed call out a 10KuF cap but I think the only one they sell is the S251D479 shown at http://www.bandc.biz/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?26X358218 which is 47KuF at 16V. Bob . . .


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:33:30 AM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Single connector for instrument panel?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 09:16 AM 1/7/2004 +1100, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott, Ian" ><ian_scott@rslcom.com.au> > > >I think that I already know the answer to this question, however I am >considering installing a single connector between the firewall and the >instrument panel in my Jabiru, so that I can easily remove the panel from >the plane, without disconnecting all the switches on the panel, and the >radios etc. > >I know that it could be a point of failure, however I wonder how big this >is, What connector should I use? > >(simple day VFR aircraft, that runs haply with master switch off, (self >exciting ignition). If it were my airplane, I'd use the D-sub connector with machined crimp pins in every practical situation where a connector is desired. For the application you're considering, I think the D-sub would do just fine. Electrical Issues: For pins that carry continuous current over 3A, you can parallel pins for increased capacity. Put a 6" piece of 22AWG into the wire grip on every pin that gets paralleled with another pin. Bring the pigtails together into a butt splice and continue on with the larger wire. See: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Parallel_Dsub_Pins//Parallel_Dsub_Pins.gif Mechanical Issues: If you've got a lot of eggs in the one basket, let's make it a robust basket. I'd use cable-to-cable connectors as shown in http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Parallel_Dsub_Pins/Dsub_Safety.jpg Install hoods on both connectors to immobilize wires as they exit the rear of the connector shell. As a general rule, we don't use anything smaller than 8-32 screws for structural attach . . . this is no exception. Instead of relying on the standard 4-40 hardware that usually holds d-subs together, use safety wire as shown to maintain connection. You could use the stock hardware AND safety wire . . . but don't do it without the safety wire. Having said all this, there ARE connectors out there that are "more suited" in the eyes of my contemporaries. Mil-C-38999 series connectors have a variety of pin combinations that would lend themselves to a "cleaner" installation. These will be much larger, MUCH more expensive and require a variety of expensive tools for assembly. I'd certainly use them in a Beechjet . . . but I think the baling-wire- and-sheet-metal approach described here is a satisfactory alternative. Using the techniques described above, your odds of successful and trouble free installation of connector in a high-value wire bundle are very good. Bob . . .


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:34:05 AM PST US
    From: Rick Johnson <ricklj@silverstar.com>
    Subject: Molex terminals
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rick Johnson <ricklj@silverstar.com> Could someone point me in the right direction? I would like to buy some extra terminals (Molex terminal 4366-GL) for my Icom A200 radio. I need to practice soldering/crimping before I start on the real thing. Does anyone know of an outlet were I can purchase them? Thanks! rick johnson


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:11:39 AM PST US
    From: Rich Chiappe <service@skytecair.com>
    Subject: Starters: Sky-Tec/B&C/Magnaflite... Setting the Record
    Straight --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rich Chiappe <service@skytecair.com> On 1/3/200 Bob wrote Re: AeroElectric-List: Sky-Tec starter: --> If getting the best starter wasn't an option for me, then adding the run-on eliminator would be a good idea. Bob . . . It was a lovely implication that the Sky-Tec PM starter wasn't the best for the customer's application. A bold jab, Bob. It's too bad we can't keep things on this board geared toward matters of fact and not opinion. Here are some facts about Sky-Tec starters to help clear up some of the misconceptions I've been reading on this board for close to a year (plus) now: First of all, not all Sky-Tec starters are the same. In short, we manufacture two basic types of Lycoming starter: Permanent Magnet "Flyweight(tm)" (LS & PM) starters and wound-field "Hi-Torque" (HT and HTI) starters. Each has distinct advantages and trade-offs. As has been noted on this board, the LS and PM starters achieve their incredible weight savings (only 7.8 lbs) by utilizing a permanent magnet motor. So while it offers incredible torque and unmatched weight, the permanent magnet motor will draw more current than most on initial in-rush (the split second required to get the starter motor turning initially). This increased current draw is not a problem for the vast majority of aircraft because most have electrical systems more than capable of the incremental load (which explains why we've sold more LS/PM starters than any other). The LS/PM utilize brass bushings and a plastic stationary gear and pivot arm which some have implied make the starter less durable (metal must be better than plastic, right?). Nothing could be further from the truth. In twelve years of manufacturing lightweight starters, Sky-Tec has NEVER seen a brass bushing or plastic stationary gear (or pivot arm) fail - NEVER - ZERO - ZILCH. We could have engineered the use of heavier/more expensive all ball bearings/metal gears/metal pivot arms, etc. to be sure. But why? The result would be a heavier and more expensive starter. To us, that didn't make sense at the time and never will. Bottom line: If your application is a weekend flyer who is sensitive to cost and weight (and your aircraft electrical system is near par), the LS & PM is nearly always the best starter for you. We have more than 20,000 LS/PM's out there - they work very well and those that have them LOVE them in nearly all cases (as evidenced in fact by the steady increase in their sales year after year, their use as OEM starters on most aircraft and Lycoming factory). The Sky-Tec Hi-Torque series of starters, on the other hand, utilize wound-field motors that draw less current but tend to weigh just a little more than the permanent magnet types (8.5 lbs for the HT and 9.4 lbs for the HTI - which is 1.7/0.8 lbs. lighter, respectively than the B&C). The HT/HTI's are all steel construction and all ball bearing construction so please don't let someone tell you that all "Sky-Tec starters" (generic/plural) use bushings and plastic parts. Truth is some do and some don't, as it turns out. It depends on the intended application of the particular model of starter. If rugged, steel construction is required by your application (bush operators, helicopters, seaplanes, charter operators, severe applications, etc.) then the HT and HTI are the way to go. If your application utilizes dual electronic ignitions (no impulse coupler or retard points available) and sufficient provision has not been made for voltage supply during initial starting, you will find the High-Torque Inline Lycoming (HTI also known as the "NL" model) starter to be the best starter for your application. Any starter, regardless of brand, can break on a kickback. Permanent magnet starters may pull the voltage down below the ignition system's minimum tolerance and could causing a ill-timed spark event. However, the High-Torque inline both draws less current and has an internal kickback protection system (field replaceable shear pin) that will enable you to avoid the damage and expense of a broken starter or should a kickback occur, enable you to repair your starter in the field while you fix your ignition timing/voltage problem. As an aside, the High-Torque Inline Lycoming starter also sports a sleek, inline form that allows it to fit applications that would otherwise preclude someone from using any lightweight starter (RG Cessnas, A/C'd Pipers, etc.) making it pretty much the only 'universal' lightweight starter capable of starting just about any Lycoming-powered aircraft (-235 through -720). So if your application is a tight fit (Cardinal RG, Falco, etc.), the HTI is the best starter for you. In addition, Sky-Tec also manufactures Continental and Franklin starters and tendencies and features of one model do not necessarily translate across the line to other models. Again, each is designed to be the best for a particular application and may utilize different motor architectures, gear reduction and other variables. If we want to discuss which is "the best" general Lycoming starter in the industry, Sky-Tec will gladly put our new High-Torque Inline Lycoming starter against all comers for torque, ruggedness, low current draw, light weight, fit, features, performance and price/value. A note on Magnaflite regarding the question on a previous post. I would simply caution that anyone considering purchasing a Magnaflite right now do some quick research into their recent Bendix recall before buying into their "lightest/cheapest" pitch. As far as I can tell, the Magnaflite will always be the cheapest lightweight starter available because it is designed to be just that - the cheapest to make. They do so by utilizing the same engagement method our grandfathers used on their engines 50 years ago - the mechanical Bendix drive. Rarely do motors/windings fail in starters. Typically the Bendix is the first to go (most well before TBO). That's why Sky-Tec and B&C do not use Bendix drives. Bendix failures account for probably 90% of "old style" starter failures and they require constant maintenance and attention. In 2003, Kelly experienced some problems with a supplier and suffered some issues with premature Bendix failure. They seem to be addressing those problems and have been very up-front with their customers from what we've heard. But the story is the same: with a Bendix, it's not a function of "if" it's going to fail but "when" (then again, to be fair, I guess ultimately the same is true of any mechanical device - but our experience has proved without a doubt that electromechancal solenoid-engaged drive will out perform the old Bendix by a long shot. And finally, for all board posters that have questions/concerns about Sky-Tec starters, please do not ever hesitate to call us and ask for me personally. I try my best to tend to this board periodically but can only do so as I find time. At our pace of sales, extra time is becoming rarer and rarer. I will try to do so to keep up the quality of information available on this board as I can, but if you prefer to get instant answers, please feel free to call me. I look forward to hearing from you. Here is how to get in touch with me: - Rich Chiappe Sky-Tec 800-476-7896 richc@skytecair.com


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:53:21 AM PST US
    From: "Trudy Ettelson" <tettelso@socal.devry.edu>
    Setting the Record Straight
    Subject: Re: Starters: Sky-Tec/B&C/Magnaflite...
    Setting the Record Straight --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trudy Ettelson" <tettelso@socal.devry.edu> ** Reply Requested When Convenient ** Please remove me from your list. I receive thousands of blind copies from your list and others of its kind, which I don't need. I am an English professor at DeVry University and am not in the aerospace industry.> service@skytecair.com 01/07/04 10:10AM >>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rich Chiappe <service@skytecair.com> On 1/3/200 Bob wrote Re: AeroElectric-List: Sky-Tec starter: --> If getting the best starter wasn't an option for me, then adding the run-on eliminator would be a good idea. Bob . . . It was a lovely implication that the Sky-Tec PM starter wasn't the best for the customer's application. A bold jab, Bob. It's too bad we can't keep things on this board geared toward matters of fact and not opinion. Here are some facts about Sky-Tec starters to help clear up some of the misconceptions I've been reading on this board for close to a year (plus) now: First of all, not all Sky-Tec starters are the same. In short, we manufacture two basic types of Lycoming starter: Permanent Magnet "Flyweight(tm)" (LS & PM) starters and wound-field "Hi-Torque" (HT and HTI) starters. Each has distinct advantages and trade-offs. As has been noted on this board, the LS and PM starters achieve their incredible weight savings (only 7.8 lbs) by utilizing a permanent magnet motor. So while it offers incredible torque and unmatched weight, the permanent magnet motor will draw more current than most on initial in-rush (the split second required to get the starter motor turning initially). This increased current draw is not a problem for the vast majority of aircraft because most have electrical systems more than capable of the incremental load (which explains why we've sold more LS/PM starters than any other). The LS/PM utilize brass bushings and a plastic stationary gear and pivot arm which some have implied make the starter less durable (m! etal must be better than plastic, right?). Nothing could be further from the truth. In twelve years of manufacturing lightweight starters, Sky-Tec has NEVER seen a brass bushing or plastic stationary gear (or pivot arm) fail - NEVER - ZERO - ZILCH. We could have engineered the use of heavier/more expensive all ball bearings/metal gears/metal pivot arms, etc. to be sure. But why? The result would be a heavier and more expensive starter. To us, that didn't make sense at the time and never will. Bottom line: If your application is a weekend flyer who is sensitive to cost and weight (and your aircraft electrical system is near par), the LS & PM is nearly always the best starter for you. We have more than 20,000 LS/PM's out there - they work very well and those that have them LOVE them in nearly all cases (as evidenced in fact by the steady increase in their sales year after year, their use as OEM starters on most aircraft and Lycoming factory). The Sky-Tec Hi-Torque series of starters, on the other hand, utilize wound-field motors that draw less current but tend to weigh just a little more than the permanent magnet types (8.5 lbs for the HT and 9.4 lbs for the HTI - which is 1.7/0.8 lbs. lighter, respectively than the B&C). The HT/HTI's are all steel construction and all ball bearing construction so please don't let someone tell you that all "Sky-Tec starters" (generic/plural) use bushings and plastic parts. Truth is some do and some don't, as it turns out. It depends on the intended application of the particular model of starter. If rugged, steel construction is required by your application (bush operators, helicopters, seaplanes, charter operators, severe applications, etc.) then the HT and HTI are the way to go. If your application utilizes dual electronic ignitions (no impulse coupler or retard points available) and sufficient provision has not been made for voltage supply during initial starting, you will find the High-Torque Inline Lycoming (HTI also known as the "NL" model) starter to be the best starter for your application. Any starter, regardless of brand, can break on a kickback. Permanent magnet starters may pull the voltage down below the ignition system's minimum tolerance and could causing a ill-timed spark event. However, the High-Torque inline both draws less current and has an internal kickback protection system (field replaceable shear pin) that will enable you to avoid the damage and expense of a broken starter or should a kickback occur, enable you to repair your starter in the field while you fix your ignition timing/voltage problem. As an aside, the High-Torque Inline Lycoming starter also sports a sleek, inline form that allows it to fit applications that wo! uld otherwise preclude someone from using any lightweight starter (RG Cessnas, A/C'd Pipers, etc.) making it pretty much the only 'universal' lightweight starter capable of starting just about any Lycoming-powered aircraft (-235 through -720). So if your application is a tight fit (Cardinal RG, Falco, etc.), the HTI is the best starter for you. In addition, Sky-Tec also manufactures Continental and Franklin starters and tendencies and features of one model do not necessarily translate across the line to other models. Again, each is designed to be the best for a particular application and may utilize different motor architectures, gear reduction and other variables. If we want to discuss which is "the best" general Lycoming starter in the industry, Sky-Tec will gladly put our new High-Torque Inline Lycoming starter against all comers for torque, ruggedness, low current draw, light weight, fit, features, performance and price/value. A note on Magnaflite regarding the question on a previous post. I would simply caution that anyone considering purchasing a Magnaflite right now do some quick research into their recent Bendix recall before buying into their "lightest/cheapest" pitch. As far as I can tell, the Magnaflite will always be the cheapest lightweight starter available because it is designed to be just that - the cheapest to make. They do so by utilizing the same engagement method our grandfathers used on their engines 50 years ago - the mechanical Bendix drive. Rarely do motors/windings fail in starters. Typically the Bendix is the first to go (most well before TBO). That's why Sky-Tec and B&C do not use Bendix drives. Bendix failures account for probably 90% of "old style" starter failures and they require constant maintenance and attention. In 2003, Kelly experienced some problems with a supplier and suffered some issues with premature Bendix failure. They seem to be addressing those prob! lems and have been very up-front with their customers from what we've heard. But the story is the same: with a Bendix, it's not a function of "if" it's going to fail but "when" (then again, to be fair, I guess ultimately the same is true of any mechanical device - but our experience has proved without a doubt that electromechancal solenoid-engaged drive will out perform the old Bendix by a long shot. And finally, for all board posters that have questions/concerns about Sky-Tec starters, please do not ever hesitate to call us and ask for me personally. I try my best to tend to this board periodically but can only do so as I find time. At our pace of sales, extra time is becoming rarer and rarer. I will try to do so to keep up the quality of information available on this board as I can, but if you prefer to get instant answers, please feel free to call me. I look forward to hearing from you. Here is how to get in touch with me: - Rich Chiappe Sky-Tec 800-476-7896 richc@skytecair.com


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:11:01 PM PST US
    From: plaurence@the-beach.net
    Subject: Re: Molex terminals
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net try digikey or mouser


    Message 8


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    Time: 01:19:54 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Single connector for instrument panel?
    From: "Scott, Ian" <ian_scott@rslcom.com.au>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott, Ian" <ian_scott@rslcom.com.au> thanks do not archive Ian -----Original Message----- From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:bob.nuckolls@cox.net] Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Single connector for instrument panel? --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 09:16 AM 1/7/2004 +1100, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott, Ian" ><ian_scott@rslcom.com.au> > > >I think that I already know the answer to this question, however I am >considering installing a single connector between the firewall and the >instrument panel in my Jabiru, so that I can easily remove the panel from >the plane, without disconnecting all the switches on the panel, and the >radios etc. > >I know that it could be a point of failure, however I wonder how big this >is, What connector should I use? > >(simple day VFR aircraft, that runs haply with master switch off, (self >exciting ignition). If it were my airplane, I'd use the D-sub connector with machined crimp pins in every practical situation where a connector is desired. For the application you're considering, I think the D-sub would do just fine. Electrical Issues: For pins that carry continuous current over 3A, you can parallel pins for increased capacity. Put a 6" piece of 22AWG into the wire grip on every pin that gets paralleled with another pin. Bring the pigtails together into a butt splice and continue on with the larger wire. See: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Parallel_Dsub_Pins//Parallel_Dsub_Pins.gif Mechanical Issues: If you've got a lot of eggs in the one basket, let's make it a robust basket. I'd use cable-to-cable connectors as shown in http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Parallel_Dsub_Pins/Dsub_Safety.jpg Install hoods on both connectors to immobilize wires as they exit the rear of the connector shell. As a general rule, we don't use anything smaller than 8-32 screws for structural attach . . . this is no exception. Instead of relying on the standard 4-40 hardware that usually holds d-subs together, use safety wire as shown to maintain connection. You could use the stock hardware AND safety wire . . . but don't do it without the safety wire. Having said all this, there ARE connectors out there that are "more suited" in the eyes of my contemporaries. Mil-C-38999 series connectors have a variety of pin combinations that would lend themselves to a "cleaner" installation. These will be much larger, MUCH more expensive and require a variety of expensive tools for assembly. I'd certainly use them in a Beechjet . . . but I think the baling-wire- and-sheet-metal approach described here is a satisfactory alternative. Using the techniques described above, your odds of successful and trouble free installation of connector in a high-value wire bundle are very good. Bob . . . ---------------------------------------------------- RSL COM has an extensive and competitive range of local and long distance call packages. We also offer converged multimedia and data services through our own state-of-the-art integrated voice & data network. Visit http://www.rslcom.com.au to find out more. This message is for the named person's use only. Privileged/confidential information may be contained in this message. If you are not the addressee indicated in this message (or responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy or deliver this message to anyone. In such case, you should destroy this message, and notify us immediately. Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender, except where the message states otherwise and the sender is authorised to state them to be the views of any such entity. ----------------------------------------------------


    Message 9


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    Time: 01:51:31 PM PST US
    From: Hebeard2@aol.com
    Subject: Stein Bruch Alive Redux
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Hebeard2@aol.com Guys, Many thanks for the reassurance received from many of you. I was able to access Stein's website, and sent him another e-mail last night. Waiting for a reply. Harley E. Beard


    Message 10


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    Time: 03:56:20 PM PST US
    From: HCRV6@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Stein Bruch alive?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com In a message dated 1/6/04 3:03:14 PM Pacific Standard Time, Hebeard2@aol.com writes: << Does anyone have any information regarding Stein? >> He must be alive because he posted something to this list just a few days ago. Do not archive. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, firewall forward


    Message 11


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    Time: 04:47:12 PM PST US
    From: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com> Jabiru J400
    Subject: Re: single connector for instrument panel?
    Jabiru J400 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com> Jabiru J400 Would one of the big 15 pin Molex connectors work well for this application? Dave Morris At 04:16 PM 1/6/2004, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Scott, Ian" ><ian_scott@rslcom.com.au> > > >I think that I already know the answer to this question, however I am >considering installing a single connector between the firewall and the >instrument panel in my Jabiru, so that I can easily remove the panel from >the plane, without disconnecting all the switches on the panel, and the >radios etc. > >I know that it could be a point of failure, however I wonder how big this >is, What connector should I use? > >(simple day VFR aircraft, that runs haply with master switch off, (self >exciting ignition). > >Thanks > >Ian Scott > >---------------------------------------------------- >RSL COM has an extensive and competitive range of >local and long distance call packages. We also >offer converged multimedia and data services through >our own state-of-the-art integrated voice & data network. >Visit http://www.rslcom.com.au to find out more. > >This message is for the named person's use only. > >Privileged/confidential information may be contained in >this message. If you are not the addressee indicated in >this message (or responsible for delivery of the message >to such person), you may not copy or deliver this >message to anyone. In such case, you should destroy >this message, and notify us immediately. > >Any views expressed in this message are those of the >individual sender, except where the message states >otherwise and the sender is authorised to state them to >be the views of any such entity. >---------------------------------------------------- > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 06:02:48 PM PST US
    From: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
    Subject: Re: single connector for instrument panel? Jabiru
    J400 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net> I used a pair of CPC series connectors for my panel and they worked very well. They look like the "Cannon" connectors on big planes but they are plastic and much cheaper. They use the same pins and tools as the dsub type connectors. Along with removal, another BIG plus for me was that I could wire the airplane separately from the panel. Instead of having sheaves of wires dangling off both sides of the fuselage, each wire got immediately plugged into the connector and finished. Same with the panel, but on the bench. The chief problem with the CPC is that the biggest wire you can use is #20. I used the fuse block system off of the panel so the wires in my case are just #22 radio and instrument feeds. Mouser and DigiKey both carry them. They use the "109" pins. The tools can come from B&C. Jim Bean RV-8


    Message 13


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    Time: 08:17:37 PM PST US
    From: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
    Subject: Buttsplice vs. Solder Heatshrink?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net> My question is dirt simple. Is there any particular reason why a solder joint, covered by heat shrink, isn't as good or functional as a butt splice? Perhaps I'm missing something but the solder joint would seem to be simpler, lighter and electrically equivalent to a compression fitted splice. Looking at having to do a lot of joining or two or more wires! Mike Holland


    Message 14


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    Time: 08:26:27 PM PST US
    From: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
    Subject: Battery Bus Lead Length?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net> In Bob's drawings, the battery bus feed length is specified as "6-inches or less". Since the battery and bus are on opposite sides of the firewall this may be a difficult specification to meet thus how critical is this? What factors, other than providing a sufficient size wire for the loads anticipated and appropriate circuit protection, enter into this spec.? Thanks


    Message 15


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    Time: 08:49:00 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Starters: Setting the Record Straight
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rich Chiappe <service@skytecair.com> On 1/3/200 Bob wrote: --> If getting the best starter wasn't an option for me, then adding the run-on eliminator would be a good idea. Bob . . . It was a lovely implication that the Sky-Tec PM starter wasn't the best for the customer's application. A bold jab, Bob. It's too bad we can't keep things on this board geared toward matters of fact and not opinion. Rich my friend, I've never said that any Sky-Tec product wasn't the best or worst for anyone's APPLICATION. In fact, I've often said that Sky-Tec products are by-and-large good value . . . but I'll support my statement about the "best starter there is" by noting that while Sky-Tec starters are the product of choice for many OEMs, they ALL looked at the B&C starter years before Sky-Tec existed. They all offered to buy them in volume at prices below cost of manufacturing . . . TCM even demanded an exclusive on the IO-240 starter! They had some fixed notion of acceptable price irrespective of performance. Nobody could tear up a B&C starter on the test stand and they all tried. I'm pleased that Sky-Tec was able to address the OEM notion of proper pricing. Irrespective of what you or I might say about their choice, it WAS a demonstrable quantum jump in quality for users of those engines. B&C starters run routinely and predictably to TBO on Robinson helicopters and come back for overhaul looking like they'd run another 2000 hours. We're still hearing stories from Sky-Tec customers about recurring incidents of problems that point to what may be a combination of engineering or manufacturing problems. We're assured by Sky-Tec that these are isolated incidents and/or have been addressed with design changes . . . and that's a good thing to hear . . . won't argue with it. But if I hear of another multiple-failure event from a Sky-Tec customer, you can bet yer sweet bippy, I'll "jab" you again. My job is not to be spokesperson for Sky-Tec, B&C or any other manufacturer . . . but to hold them to the standards that customers are entitled to expect. When I used the term "best", it was akin to comparing an Olds with a Chevy 6-cyl stick . . . there are marked differences in design and manufacturing philosophies but is the 6-cyl a "poor value"??? I drove nothing but 4 and 6-cyl, no frills cars until I bought my present vehicle, a EFI-V6 GMC van with lots of extras. It depends on whether one's mission and budget comfortably allows some risk of inconvenience or discomfort in trade for difference in cost of ownership of competing products. Similarly, Firestones are product-of-choice for a lot of car manufacturers but they're the only brand of tire for which I've personally experienced tread separation . . . TWICE. I no longer buy them myself but neither do I refuse to take out a rental car fitted with Firestones. If you can buy a set of top-flight Firestones for a good price, they can be honestly said to be a "good value" . . . but may I suggest that assessing "value" and "quality" are different tasks. What started this thread was a discussion about delayed starter disengagement which is a characteristic of ANY brand of PM starter when the builder elects to use an off-board contactor for improved start switch life. Here are some facts about Sky-Tec starters to help clear up some of the misconceptions I've been reading on this board for close to a year (plus) now: First of all, not all Sky-Tec starters are the same. In short, we manufacture two basic types of Lycoming starter: Permanent Magnet "Flyweight(tm)" (LS & PM) starters and wound-field "Hi-Torque" (HT and HTI) starters. Each has distinct advantages and trade-offs. As has been noted on this board, the LS and PM starters achieve their incredible weight savings (only 7.8 lbs) by utilizing a permanent magnet motor. So while it offers incredible torque . . . . . . "incredible" is difficult to quantify. Can you offer comparative measured data? . . . and unmatched weight, the permanent magnet motor will draw more current than most on initial in-rush (the split second required to get the starter motor turning initially). This increased current draw is not a problem for the vast majority of aircraft because most have electrical systems more than capable of the incremental load (which explains why we've sold more LS/PM starters than any other). The "split second" is tens of milliseconds before the armature is accelerated into motion that the motor draws "locked rotor current". This is on the order of 500-700 amps depending on ship's wiring, battery condition and style of starter. Until twitchy processor based engine accessories came along, virtually every user could happily ignore this short lived event. This can happen with ANY starter brand or configuration depending on ship's wiring, battery size and condition. Given that the vast majority of aircraft are not fitted with electronics having this vulnerability, it only makes sense and it's to your credit that the lower cost, lighter technology has enjoyed a relatively happy service history in the marketplace. The LS/PM utilize brass bushings and a plastic stationary gear and pivot arm which some have implied make the starter less durable (metal must be better than plastic, right?). Nothing could be further from the truth. In twelve years of manufacturing lightweight starters, Sky-Tec has NEVER seen a brass bushing or plastic stationary gear (or pivot arm) fail - NEVER - ZERO - ZILCH. We could have engineered the use of heavier/more expensive all ball bearings/metal gears/metal pivot arms, etc. to be sure. But why? The result would be a heavier and more expensive starter. To us, that didn't make sense at the time and never will. Bottom line: If your application is a weekend flyer who is sensitive to cost and weight (and your aircraft electrical system is near par), the LS & PM is nearly always the best starter for you. We have more than 20,000 LS/PM's out there - they work very well and those that have them LOVE them in nearly all cases (as evidenced in fact by the steady increase in their sales year after year, their use as OEM starters on most aircraft and Lycoming factory). No argument there . . . The Sky-Tec Hi-Torque series of starters, on the other hand, utilize wound-field motors that draw less current but tend to weigh just a little more than the permanent magnet types (8.5 lbs for the HT and 9.4 lbs for the HTI - which is 1.7/0.8 lbs. lighter, respectively than the B&C). The HT/HTI's are all steel construction and all ball bearing construction so please don't let someone tell you that all "Sky-Tec starters" (generic/plural) use bushings and plastic parts. Truth is some do and some don't, as it turns out. It depends on the intended application of the particular model of starter. If rugged, steel construction is required by your application (bush operators, helicopters, seaplanes, charter operators, severe applications, etc.) then the HT and HTI are the way to go. If your application utilizes dual electronic ignitions (no impulse coupler or retard points available) and sufficient provision has not been made for voltage supply during initial starting, you will find the High-Torque Inline Lycoming (HTI also known as the "NL" model) starter to be the best starter for your application. Any starter, regardless of brand, can break on a kickback. Permanent magnet starters may pull the voltage down below the ignition system's minimum tolerance and could causing a ill-timed spark event. However, the High-Torque inline both draws less current and has an internal kickback protection system (field replaceable shear pin) that will enable you to avoid the damage and expense of a broken starter or should a kickback occur, enable you to repair your starter in the field while you fix your ignition timing/voltage problem. Wasn't aware of the field-replaceable shear pin. Sounds like a good move. . . . . As an aside, the High-Torque Inline Lycoming starter also sports a sleek, inline form that allows it to fit applications that would otherwise preclude someone from using any lightweight starter (RG Cessnas, A/C'd Pipers, etc.) making it pretty much the only 'universal' lightweight starter capable of starting just about any Lycoming-powered aircraft (-235 through -720). So if your application is a tight fit (Cardinal RG, Falco, etc.), the HTI is the best starter for you. The B&C Lyc starters were STC'd on the 235 through 720 right out of the gate. This is one reason why they started with and retained the wound field design. The other was lower locked-rotor current. In addition, Sky-Tec also manufactures Continental and Franklin starters and tendencies and features of one model do not necessarily translate across the line to other models. Again, each is designed to be the best for a particular application and may utilize different motor architectures, gear reduction and other variables. If we want to discuss which is "the best" general Lycoming starter in the industry, Sky-Tec will gladly put our new High-Torque Inline Lycoming starter against all comers for torque, ruggedness, low current draw, light weight, fit, features, performance and price/value. I'd LIKE to discuss it . . . but with data. Have you compared your products with others on the data acquisition test stand? I've invited Bill to sponsor laboratory testing on the full range of starters in the marketplace and plot them all onto one piece of paper. He's got a Lycoming shell that could be fitted with loads for dynamic testing of starters. He also has a stock of Prestolite "pig" starters that could provide a testing baseline. I object to the non-quantified terms like "incredible" and would really like to see some comparison of the full range of products in the marketplace. Bill hasn't shown an interest in sponsoring this kind of activity. Hmmmm . . . wonder if Aviation Consumer or Light Plane Maintenance would sponsor an article? A note on Magnaflite regarding the question on a previous post. I would simply caution that anyone considering purchasing a Magnaflite right now do some quick research into their recent Bendix recall before buying into their "lightest/cheapest" pitch. As far as I can tell, the Magnaflite will always be the cheapest lightweight starter available because it is designed to be just that - the cheapest to make. They do so by utilizing the same engagement method our grandfathers used on their engines 50 years ago - the mechanical Bendix drive. Rarely do motors/windings fail in starters. Typically the Bendix is the first to go (most well before TBO). That's why Sky-Tec and B&C do not use Bendix drives. Bendix failures account for probably 90% of "old style" starter failures and they require constant maintenance and attention. In 2003, Kelly experienced some problems with a supplier and suffered some issues with premature Bendix failure. They seem to be addressing those problems and have been very up-front with their customers from what we've heard. But the story is the same: with a Bendix, it's not a function of "if" it's going to fail but "when" (then again, to be fair, I guess ultimately the same is true of any mechanical device - but our experience has proved without a doubt that electromechancal solenoid-engaged drive will out perform the old Bendix by a long shot. Agreed. I couldn't recommend an inertia-engaged staring motor on anything but garden tractors and outboards . . . And finally, for all board posters that have questions/concerns about Sky-Tec starters, please do not ever hesitate to call us and ask for me personally. I try my best to tend to this board periodically but can only do so as I find time. At our pace of sales, extra time is becoming rarer and rarer. I will try to do so to keep up the quality of information available on this board as I can, but if you prefer to get instant answers, please feel free to call me. I look forward to hearing from you. Here is how to get in touch with me: - Rich Chiappe Sky-Tec 800-476-7896 richc@skytecair.com As always Rich, I appreciate your time and support of this List's charter to shine the light of data and understanding through the fog of marketing hyperbole and hangar legends. It can only serve to make us all better at what we do. By the way, I think there is a really good chance that Raytheon Aircraft will be offering a full range of testing services at what I trust will be attractive prices to all comers by the end of 2004. There's been a lot of grumbling amongst the bean-counters about how our test labs have become a financial albatrosses. Years ago, I used to enjoy access to Beech's labs in an informal, over the counter basis. I could call out for a window of opportunity and get in for a quick look-see at my product's environmental vitals and walk out with good data and a $75/hr tab to pay. I've got a charter and encouragement from RAC management to see if we can renew that kind of relationship with local industries who do not have but can use such facilities. It will probably be more like $150/hr today. Lab testing will include the full range of DO-160 and MIL-STD-810 environmental tests . . . all or any part. I'm hoping that we can attract/encourage a lot of developmental investigation that often goes un-explored only to bite both manufacturer and consumer at a later date. I'm too close to retirement at RAC to consider more than an assisting role but I may become a marketing representative later on. Shucks, I've got a few products of my own I'd like to shake, rattle, and zap if I could get the right price! Keep us in mind should you have need of such services. We've got some of the best hammers in the business for beating on things to see how well they are built! Bob . . . ----------------------------------------- ( Experience and common sense cannot be ) ( replaced with policy and procedures. ) ( R. L. Nuckolls III ) -----------------------------------------


    Message 16


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    Time: 09:28:13 PM PST US
    Subject: Keeping Cables Separated
    From: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com> Hi Bob, PS Engineering in the installation manual for their PMA4000 Series Selector Panel and Intercom system under NOISE state: "Radiated signals can be a factor when low level microphone signals are "bundled" with current carrying power wires. Keep these (I assume they mean the mic and phone) cables physically separated." I planed on running all wiring from mid-ship forward to behind the panel in the same "tray" based on what I THOUGHT ??? has been suggested on the list. Some words of wisdom please. Thanks, Don B


    Message 17


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    Time: 10:24:04 PM PST US
    From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
    Subject: Low Density 9-PIN D-Sub Dust cover....
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net> I'm not sure there is such a thing..... a black plastic cover for 9-PIN D-Sub connectors.. but I am curious if anyone has a known source for such an item. I am planning to install 9-PIN D-Sub connectors on my instrument panel so I can run a serial data cable to a laptop computer and record GRT EIS data and calibrate/update the Dynon EFIS-D10 data. Leaving the D-subs exposed on the panel is un-sitely and I would like to have black plastic covers to mask these and keep dirt/dust away from the exposed pins. More of a cosmetic thing than anything else..... Any links, part nos. or manufacturer's phone number would be greatly appreciated... TIA, Jack Lockamy Camarillo, CA RV-7A N174JL reserved www.jacklockamy.com DO NOT ARCHIVE




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