Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:18 AM - Re: OT: Corroded Wiring (Trampas)
2. 05:47 AM - Re: Back up electrical generator (wind driven, in flight (Eric M. Jones)
3. 06:36 AM - Re: OT: Corroded Wiring (Jon Finley)
4. 06:46 AM - Internally Lit Instruments (Emrath)
5. 08:39 AM - Re: Internally Lit Instruments (Neal A. Dillman)
6. 10:00 AM - Re: Keeping Cables Separated 2 (Traveling Man)
7. 12:33 PM - Re: Pin out for a JET turn and slip? (richard@riley.net)
8. 12:59 PM - Ray Allen PR3 LED Indicator (BAKEROCB@aol.com)
9. 01:23 PM - Re: Ray Allen PR3 LED Indicator ()
10. 05:10 PM - Re: Low Density 9-PIN D-Sub Dust cover.... (Paul Messinger)
11. 07:39 PM - Dual battery, single master switch problem (Michel Therrien)
Message 1
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| Subject: | OT: Corroded Wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
My experiences with cars and such is that what happens is corrosion is
started at the connector and then the moisture and corrosion is wicked
through out the length of the wire. Usually if the corrosion is so bad that
solder will not wick to the wire then you need to replace the wire,
especially if it carries a high current load.
The best splice for a car is to solder the wires and cover with heat shrink
that has an internal coating of hot glue. This creates a permanent fix that
will never let water back into the joint.
Do Not Archive.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon
Finley
Subject: AeroElectric-List: OT: Corroded Wiring
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Hi all,
I am restoring an automobile and have found a fair amount of corrosion
where wires are joined (quite a few butt-splice type connections). Is
this type of corrosion usually just on the surface? Would I be better
off to replace all of these connections or is cleaning them sufficient?
Thanks,
Jon Finley
N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 461 Hrs. TT
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://www.FinleyWeb.net/Q2Subaru
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Back up electrical generator (wind driven, in flight |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>From: Ian (jabiru22@yahoo.com.au)
>Not sure if you have seen this, though I thought that it was interesting
>http://www.basicaircraft.com/index.asp
>Ian
This deployable wind driven generator has been around for a while, as have
others. On sailboats a WDG is all you've got. This one has the benefit of
being deployable and compact and apparently powerful enough to do the job.
BUT I don't own stock in the company so I propose some questions for
discussion:
1) Isn't a small spare alternator really a much better way to go?
2) If you read the testimonials; isn't deciding to take off on your back-up
electrical system ill-advised?
3) If the device will get you out of a jam in IMC, isn't icing a concern?
4) If 3) is yes, how about an exhaust driven turbo-generator to replace the
muffler? (As usual I'll take my 10% fee for the idea.)
5) My own similar design (paper only) is made from a NACA duct and a turbine
wheel from an upright vacuum cleaner.
6) Doesn't Bob have eight ways to do this job? Are they (as I suspect)
better? For extra credit explain why. Compare and contrast the systems.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
Phone (508) 764-2072
Email: emjones@charter.net
Message 3
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| Subject: | OT: Corroded Wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Thanks Bob & Trampas - looks like I'll be doing a bit of re-wiring! :-)
Jon
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Trampas
> Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 7:18 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: OT: Corroded Wiring
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
> My experiences with cars and such is that what happens is
> corrosion is started at the connector and then the moisture
> and corrosion is wicked through out the length of the wire.
> Usually if the corrosion is so bad that solder will not wick
> to the wire then you need to replace the wire, especially if
> it carries a high current load.
>
> The best splice for a car is to solder the wires and cover
> with heat shrink that has an internal coating of hot glue.
> This creates a permanent fix that will never let water back
> into the joint.
>
> Do Not Archive.
>
> Regards,
> Trampas Stern
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Jon Finley
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: OT: Corroded Wiring
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley"
> --> <jon@finleyweb.net>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am restoring an automobile and have found a fair amount of
> corrosion where wires are joined (quite a few butt-splice
> type connections). Is this type of corrosion usually just on
> the surface? Would I be better off to replace all of these
> connections or is cleaning them sufficient?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon Finley
> N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 461 Hrs. TT
> Apple Valley, Minnesota
> http://www.FinleyWeb.net/Q2Subaru
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 4
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| Subject: | Internally Lit Instruments |
tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_24_48
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
I have salvaged flight instruments that are lit internally. These are
marked 28 volt. Is it possible to just change the bulb out for 12 volt
bulbs and if so, anyone know of a source for the bulb?
Marty in Brentwood TN
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Internally Lit Instruments |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neal A. Dillman" <neald@glyph.com>
Marty,
Most internally lit instruments take a "light wedge" that you should be
able to find for $25-35 each. If you can take them apart, SPT at
www.sptpanel.com sells the "grain of wheat" bulbs that you would need to
rebulb the wedges. That said, I am not sure if the wedges are sealed
units or not.
Regards,
Neal
Emrath wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
>I have salvaged flight instruments that are lit internally. These are
>marked 28 volt. Is it possible to just change the bulb out for 12 volt
>bulbs and if so, anyone know of a source for the bulb?
>Marty in Brentwood TN
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Keeping Cables Separated 2 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Traveling Man" <travliman58@hotmail.com>
Hello list. I just found this list through the Matronics Zenith List, I
hope to be building my 601 soon.
I am an electrical/mechanical designer for a Resistance Welding Controls
Manufacturer. Part of my job is trying to eliminate noise in the electrical
wiring systems.
I agree with everything Mr. Knuckolls has written. Grounding properly is
first, we typically run multiple grounds from different sections of our
cabinets and chassis to make SURE everything is well grounded.
With regard to separating high voltage from low, the further apart you can
run parallel sections of harness the better, where they must cross, cross at
a 90 degree angle. No system is perfect, do the best you can, if you have a
noise problem, at least now you have an idea of what might be causing it.
Good luck.
Bob Lindley
CH601-HD, Just paper on the table for now
Youth and skill are unbeatable in combination
until opposed by age and treachery.
Rethink your business approach for the new year with the helpful tips here.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Pin out for a JET turn and slip? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
At 09:58 PM 1/10/04 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
>
>I'm looking for the pin outs for a JET turn and slip indicator. I've never
>seen one like it before - a square face 2 1/4 x 1 1/4. Part number
>501-1186-01. It also says ARU-54/A. Any suggestions?
Further data - I've found out it's from an AV8 Harrier.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Ray Allen PR3 LED Indicator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
1/11/2004
Hello Electrical Experts, I have some questions about how a Ray Allen
(Formerly Menzimer) RP3 LED Indicator may go bad.
The indicator has 6 wires feeding it. Three of the wires (orange, green,
blue) come from a servo or sensor and provide position information that causes
one
of the LED's to illuminate showing the position of the servo or sensor shaft.
A separate red wire feeds 12 volts through a one amp fuse or circuit breaker.
A separate black wire connects to ground. A separate white wire will dim the
LED's when 12v + (only) is applied to this wire.
My questions are:
1) What if some variable voltage ranging from zero to 12 + volts is
mistakenly applied to the separate white dimming wire?
2) Is it possible that doing 1) above could cause the indicator to fail
internally and then cease functioning by causing the one amp fuse or circuit
breaker in the red 12v feed line to open when ever connection is made?
Thanks for your help.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - 11/17/03
Message 9
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| Subject: | Ray Allen PR3 LED Indicator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <beecho@beecho.org>
I had the same problem. The chip in my indicator went bad. I returned
it to Ray Allen and they promptly replaced it no charge even though it
was 4 years old.
Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BAKEROCB@aol.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Ray Allen PR3 LED Indicator
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BAKEROCB@aol.com
1/11/2004
Hello Electrical Experts, I have some questions about how a Ray Allen
(Formerly Menzimer) RP3 LED Indicator may go bad.
The indicator has 6 wires feeding it. Three of the wires (orange, green,
blue) come from a servo or sensor and provide position information that
causes one
of the LED's to illuminate showing the position of the servo or sensor
shaft.
A separate red wire feeds 12 volts through a one amp fuse or circuit
breaker.
A separate black wire connects to ground. A separate white wire will dim
the
LED's when 12v + (only) is applied to this wire.
My questions are:
1) What if some variable voltage ranging from zero to 12 + volts is
mistakenly applied to the separate white dimming wire?
2) Is it possible that doing 1) above could cause the indicator to fail
internally and then cease functioning by causing the one amp fuse or
circuit
breaker in the red 12v feed line to open when ever connection is made?
Thanks for your help.
'OC' Baker, Builder of KIS TR-1 #116 4/14/97 - 11/17/03
==
==
==
==
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Low Density 9-PIN D-Sub Dust cover.... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@olypen.com>
Go to www.mouser.com and search for 152-1042-1P 0r 1s
For the 9 pin d sub at $0.50 in ones and 3p or 3s for 25pin dsubs They are
RED in color.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Low Density 9-PIN D-Sub Dust cover....
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy"
<jacklockamy@att.net>
>
> Thanks Bob.... seems to me I have seen them before also. Just thought
someone else may have a lead on where to find them.
>
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Dual battery, single master switch problem |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
Bob,
You may remember a while ago, I mentioned I wanted to
have a single master switch to operate both electrical
circuits (both contactors). I installed normally
closed momentary switches to test the contactors
independtly, but I use a split master switch for both
contactors and for the alternator. (see diagram at
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby/misc/electprob.gif ).
This evening, I found a bizzare behavior when one
battery goes weak. It appears that when one battery
is weak and I turn on the radio, something happens.
At least one of the contactor closes. I think this is
because the weak battery creates a closed circuit
using the two contactor coils (which are joined at my
contactor test switches).
Now I see that having two separate master switches
would resolve this problem as the two contactor coils
would not be linked together.
I wonder if I could also solve this problem by
inserting diodes between the contactor coil (ground
side) and the contactor test switch. This, I think
would prevent the second battery from feeding the
first contactor coil (and vice versa).
Please let me know if you think this would work.
Thanks!
Michel
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
__________________________________
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