Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:11 AM - Nice Fuse Block (Mark Neubauer)
2. 06:27 AM - D Sub connectors WAS: UPS Apollo SL Stack (kempthornes)
3. 06:40 AM - Re: Apollo Stack wiring (irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu)
4. 06:53 AM - Re: Understanding the E-Buss (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:02 AM - Re: Roll-Your-Own OVP (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:04 AM - Re: 11093 edgeworth (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 07:04 AM - Re: Panel Lighting Options (kempthornes)
8. 07:10 AM - Re: Nice Fuse Block (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:22 AM - Re: Nice Fuse Block (Matt Prather)
10. 07:44 AM - Re: Current leak? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 02:29 PM - Re: Roll-Your-Own OVP (Mark Steitle)
12. 08:10 PM - KT-76A Pinout Clarification (John Wiegenstein)
13. 08:36 PM - Re: Roll-Your-Own OVP (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 08:50 PM - current leak? (hollandm)
15. 09:11 PM - Alternator exchange (Dean Psiropoulos)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Neubauer" <mark.neubauer@genmar.com>
Dear Electron Disciple of :
I found an excellent fuse block (Blue Sea Systems #5026), two of which I am using
on my GlaStar project. View it at:
http://www.bluesea.com
It is designed for 12 circuits, including the grounding posts, with a clear, removable
cover. Very well made, for the marine industry. This company is a great
source of the kind of stuff we need to wire our birds.
Mark Neubauer
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | D Sub connectors WAS: UPS Apollo SL Stack |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
There are different ways to make up a D-sub connector.
Solder cups - in this case the connector has little (very little!) cups
into which you insert the wire and some solder. I've done hundreds and can
tell you they are a pain in the butt.
Solder pins - solder again but to pins you insert into empty connector.
Crimp pins stamped - pins are stamped out of sheet metal and crimped with
tool - seems each maker has his own expensive tool I have done lots of
these but they are a pain too.
Crimp pins machined - these are cool! Way too expensive from the guys who
send you a whopper catalog every month or so but a real deal from Electric
Bob. I just bought and used his kit for the Dynon.
All these fit each other - that is, they are compatible in use. Use the
machined crimp pins on everything. A few more pennies but much less
frustration.
At 08:22 PM 1/21/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terrence Gardner"
><ttandt@mindspring.com>
>
>I am installing an SL15M, SL30, and SL70 in my RV9. According to the
>installation instructions no fewer than 4 different D-Sub crimpers are
>required.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Apollo Stack wiring |
01/22/2004 09:40:20 AM,
Serialize complete at 01/22/2004 09:40:20 AM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: irampil@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
When I wired my SL30, SL70, I recall only criming standard sub D machined
roll pins which came supplied in the
respective install kits. Nothing was prewired. I bought them at Gulf
Coast but they were drop shipped straight to me.
The coax connections all required soldering
Ira N224XS
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Understanding the E-Buss |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:46 AM 1/21/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>Bob:
>
>Im wiring my RV following Bobs diagram Z-xx (Generic light aircraft
>electrical system (alternator w/built-in regulator).
>
>Question: The E-Buss is fed from the Battery buss with 16 gage wire & a
>switch. It is also fed via the diode with 16 gage wire. If all of the
>components listed on the E-Buss are on, isnt that going to draw quite a
>bit of power more than the 16 gage wire can handle?? In my case I have
>a booster pump for a fuel injected engine it looks like it might draw
>quite a bit of juice what should I do here this booster fuel pump is
>certainly an essential item and so should go on the E-buss.
Read chapter 17 again and keep in mind that what we've originally
called the ESSENTIAL bus is more appropriately called the ENDURANCE
bus. Stuff on this bus should be limited to the minimum power
consumption nav and communications aids that make your continued
flight to destination a comfortable reality.
>If you are going down you turn off the Master switch and then have NO
>power behind the firewall a good thing. With this Battery buss you end
>up with a small 16 gage hot wire coming back behind the firewall is
>this not a big deal since its a small wire and would short and fry
>quickly in a crash as opposed to a scenario where one had a 6 gage wire,
>which might cause quite an electical mess before it fried? Could someone
>please help me understand this.
The rule-of-thumb for always hot wires in aircraft is to
protect them at 5A or less . . . this generally implies
22AWG as the largest wire. Since introduction of the
E-bus a decade ago, the peak-load (endurance +
transmit) have made a 5A circuit impractical . . . but
given the speed with which fuses open compared to breakers,
we've grown a slightly bigger thumb and decided we'll
live with a 7A/20AWG feeder (or fatter wire IF the
battery is behind the seat and the feeder is long . . .
but 7A is still the biggest fuse for an always hot
wire).
Now, if you have an electrically dependent engine, I'd
run engine support accessories from the battery bus.
If any one accessory needs larger than a 7A FUSED
or 5A BREAKERED feeder, then consider the addition
of a relay to provide AT-THE-BUS disconnect capabilities
not unlike that provided by a battery contactor. This
is illustrated in
http://www.aeroelectric.com/temp/E-BusFatFeed.gif
which shows at-the-bus control of fat feeder for
the e-bus . . . but applies equally to ANY wire
off the battery bus fused at more than 7A. If you
have foul smells in the cockpit, being able to
make everything COLD except engine support components
is the goal. You ARE going to carry flashlights
and hand-helds, right? Likelihood of ever NEEDING
them in an OBAM aircraft is a small fraction that
of a certified ship. The problems that plague
cookie-cutter airplanes have or will be quickly
designed out of the OBAM machine. This is how
the Z-figures evolved.
Equipment most useful for continued flight sans
alternator and that needed to keep the propeller
turning are separate issues and should not be
lumped under the single heading of ESSENTIAL.
Now, if you have an electrically dependent engine
AND only one alternator AND it takes a lot of
electrical snort to keep the engine running. You've
got a combination of conditions that probably
limits your sans alternator electrical endurance
to less than fuel-aboard. You don't want to carry
THAT big a battery that needs to be replaced every
year and/or capacity checked two or three times
a year . . . Sooooo the idea of seeking out
the closest safe harbor if the alternator quits
is probably your best modus operandi. But again,
unlike cookie-cutter airplanes, YOU will have
active notification of alternator failure
AND a high order of confidence in your battery's
ability to support the engine for longer than
the FAA recommended 30 minutes. Again, the
airplane you're considering has features and
reliability our spam-can flying brethren
can only dream about for getting PERMISSION to
make a difference is rarely sought and
grudgingly given.
Bob . . .
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Roll-Your-Own OVP |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:57 PM 1/21/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Steitle
><msteitle@mail.utexas.edu>
>
>Bob,
>A fellow builder and myself have built an OVP unit based on the schematic
>on the B&C site (Dwg. Rev. 4/16/2). So far all the smoke is still in the
>IC's. It has be a fun and educational experience. However, when
>attempting to calibrate the assembled unit, we can't get it to trip as it
>should. Could you possibly shed some light on where we may have gone
>wrong? We are electronic novices, so it was a little unclear as to which
>leads were which on the transistors. If you could verify the correct leads
>on the attached sketch it would be helpful.
>
>Also, there are two different schematics on the B&C site. Would the one
>labeled AEC9003-14 / AEC9003-28 be a better choice as it has half as many
>parts.
See http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/2N/2N3904.pdf
and
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/2N/2N3906.pdf
Getting the transistor leads tangled up is the most common
error. Not sure why the simpler drawing is still on their
site . . . I think that's the one based on a part that
is no longer available. It probably represents what they
build after having purchased a life-time supply of the
discontinued part . . . but that's not an option readily
available to folks at large. That's why the alternative
configuration was offered a few years ago.
Bob . . .
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 11093 edgeworth |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:28 PM 1/21/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>Below is the result of your inquiry. It was submitted by
>jim edgeworth (jim@edgeworthj.fsnet.co.uk) on Wednesday, January 21, 2004
>at 11:28:28
>
>Wednesday, January 21, 2004
>
>jim edgeworth
>
>,
>Email: jim@edgeworthj.fsnet.co.uk
>Comments/Questions: Alternator linear voltage regulator:- do you have a
>circuit available? I'd like to build as much as I can of my RV6A, just to
>be able to say that I built it, not just assembled a collection of bought
>parts.
No, in fact, I wouldn't build a linear regulator for a
current project. The benefits are not a great as we
originally perceived back when I was working on that
chapter of the book. That will be revised in the future
to suggest that switchers are fine. Consider the readily
available and VERY inexpensive VR166 Ford regulator
discussed in the book and illustrated in the wiring diagrams.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Panel Lighting Options |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 08:00 PM 1/19/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Neil Clayton <harvey4@earthlink.net>
>
>At 10:41 AM 1/18/2004, you wrote:
> >.....My only regret is I should have left a longer
> >overhang to my top skin over the panel.
Leaving the skin overhang as in Vans design is a bad idea. It can slice
off a big piece of your head in a crash. What I did was leave about 3/4
inch of heavy aluminum to support a firm rubber crash pad. I then made an
overhang of very thin soft aluminum sheet. This is just taped on because I
figure I will have to replace it every so often. Safer and LESS WEIGHT too!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nice Fuse Block |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:10 AM 1/22/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Neubauer"
><mark.neubauer@genmar.com>
>
>Dear Electron Disciple of :
>
>I found an excellent fuse block (Blue Sea Systems #5026), two of which I
>am using on my GlaStar project. View it at:
>
>http://www.bluesea.com
>
>It is designed for 12 circuits, including the grounding posts, with a
>clear, removable cover. Very well made, for the marine industry. This
>company is a great source of the kind of stuff we need to wire our birds.
>
>Mark Neubauer
Good looking product . . . but it does use screws
for attaching wires. I would prefer fast-ons . .
Bob . . .
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Nice Fuse Block |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Mark,
Out of curiousity, do you work for these guys? I wonder because
this is the second time you posted something about this fuse
block, unsolicited. No biggie, but wondering.
So, what do you think about the reservations that Bob mentioned
before about these (threaded fasteners, ground single point failure,
too few ground connections)?
Regards,
Matt-
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Neubauer"
> <mark.neubauer@genmar.com>
>
> Dear Electron Disciple of :
>
> I found an excellent fuse block (Blue Sea Systems #5026), two of which I
> am using on my GlaStar project. View it at:
>
> http://www.bluesea.com
>
> It is designed for 12 circuits, including the grounding posts, with a
> clear, removable cover. Very well made, for the marine industry. This
> company is a great source of the kind of stuff we need to wire our
> birds.
>
> Mark Neubauer
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Current leak? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:21 PM 1/21/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
>When the battery master is off I can still measure about 0.5 to 0.7 volts
>after the battery master contactor. With the master on and the relay
>closed it measures full battery voltage so the contactor is mechanically OK.
>
>Is it normal for a contactor to "leak" a low voltage when open? There is
>a diode between the relay and the hot side. Could this be the source of
>the leak?
>
>My concern is that the contactor may be defective and a small voltage leak
>may result in a dead battery, if it can find a path to ground.
>
>
>Thanks
If the source of voltage is the battery, then it will disappear with the
contactor open AND the battery (+) or (-) leads disconnected. I suspect
there is some device on your bus that has a capacitor across the line
and is retaining a small charge after the contactor opens. Come back
tomorrow morning and see if the .5 volts is still there.
Bob . . .
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Roll-Your-Own OVP |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Steitle <msteitle@mail.utexas.edu>
At 09:02 AM 1/22/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>At 02:57 PM 1/21/2004 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Steitle
> ><msteitle@mail.utexas.edu>
> >
> >Bob,
> >A fellow builder and myself have built an OVP unit based on the schematic
> >on the B&C site (Dwg. Rev. 4/16/2). So far all the smoke is still in the
> >IC's. It has be a fun and educational experience. However, when
> >attempting to calibrate the assembled unit, we can't get it to trip as it
> >should. Could you possibly shed some light on where we may have gone
> >wrong? We are electronic novices, so it was a little unclear as to which
> >leads were which on the transistors. If you could verify the correct leads
> >on the attached sketch it would be helpful.
> >
> >Also, there are two different schematics on the B&C site. Would the one
> >labeled AEC9003-14 / AEC9003-28 be a better choice as it has half as many
> >parts.
>
> See http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/2N/2N3904.pdf
> and
> http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/2N/2N3906.pdf
>
> Getting the transistor leads tangled up is the most common
> error. Not sure why the simpler drawing is still on their
> site . . . I think that's the one based on a part that
> is no longer available. It probably represents what they
> build after having purchased a life-time supply of the
> discontinued part . . . but that's not an option readily
> available to folks at large. That's why the alternative
> configuration was offered a few years ago.
>
> Bob . . .
Bob,
OK, thanks for clearing up the schematic question. We've since looked over
the wiring again and could not find anything that was installed backwards
or wired incorrectly. So I'll check our test setup to be sure we have that
done right and then re-test.
Thanks for your assistance,
Mark S.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | KT-76A Pinout Clarification |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw@hellerwiegenstein.com>
OK, the KT-76A has shown up in the extensive (expensive?) Honeywell box.
I've downloaded Bob's pinout PDF for this unit, but want to make sure its
wired up correctly. The connector that came with the unit does not have a
"one way" tab to prevent a reversed assembly, but the pin numbers and
letters on the connector are as shown in Bob's pinout, and the edge
connector on the unit has a slot near one end, such that the numbers and
letters seem to match. But before I accidentally let all the smoke out of
the insides, has anyone done a recent install and can confirm this?
Couple other questions: (1) What are the A1, A2, A4, B1, B2, B4, C1, C2,
C4, and D4 circuits for? Encoder? (2) The "Ext Ident" and "Ext Stby"
would appear to be for external/remote switching of these functions. But
what is "DME Suppression"??? (3)Is there a preferred way to test the
connections and function to be sure everything's wired up right?
TIA for any advice. Man, I'm getting close . . . .
John Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 N727JW (reserved)
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Roll-Your-Own OVP |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> >
> > Bob . . .
>Bob,
>OK, thanks for clearing up the schematic question. We've since looked over
>the wiring again and could not find anything that was installed backwards
>or wired incorrectly. So I'll check our test setup to be sure we have that
>done right and then re-test.
>
>Thanks for your assistance,
>Mark S.
If push comes to shove, you can send me your assembly.
I think I've chased the rats out of a half dozen or
so of these critters so far.
Bob . . .
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Bob, I checked and with the battery disconnected I still see the residual voltage
but to my knowledge, there are no capacitors in the line, at this time. I
checked the bus voltage with the steering diode disconnected and it dropped to
zero. So on this basis I have concluded that the diode, somehow was responsible.
The voltage did progressively drop but was still easily measurable 24 hours
after the master was opened.
So whatever is charging the circuit maintains that small voltage for a sustained
period. Very strange.
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Alternator exchange |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
Lectric Bob:
Given all the discussion about OV protection, I have always intended to
install that kind of insurance on my airplane. I'm finally down to
finishing and bought a firewall forward kit from Van's aircraft. It
contains a rebuilt Nippon Denso alternator (60 amp) but unfortunately that
unit is internally regulated. I think this is the same unit that B&C
modifies and sells. My question is: if I send this unit over to B&C can
they modify it for a reasonable fee? Or maybe I can exchange it and a few
bucks for a B&C alternator that I can use with your OV protection. Or
should I just use it as is because the probability of an OV failure is very
small and therefore not worth the extra money need to modify the unit I
already have? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A canopy frame headaches
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|