Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:35 AM - Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 07:07 AM - Alternator - Thermocouples (Clay R)
3. 07:08 AM - Wiring PTT button (jack eckdahl)
4. 07:13 AM - Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks (John Schroeder)
5. 08:04 AM - Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks (flmike)
6. 10:32 AM - Wiring for my LOM (Leonard Garceau)
7. 11:29 AM - manual battery switch (klehman@albedo.net)
8. 12:42 PM - Re: NKK LED toggle switches ()
9. 02:32 PM - Re: Shielded sensor wires (Clay R)
10. 03:02 PM - Regulator calibration (Scot Stambaugh)
11. 04:18 PM - Re: manual battery switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 04:20 PM - Re: Wiring PTT button (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 04:24 PM - Re: Re: Shielded sensor wires (Terry Watson)
14. 04:24 PM - Re: Wiring for my LOM (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 04:29 PM - Re: Regulator calibration (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 04:57 PM - Re: Regulator calibration (Scot Stambaugh)
17. 05:37 PM - Re: Seat Heater Question (Charlie Kuss)
18. 06:49 PM - Re: Re: Shielded sensor wires (AI Nut)
19. 07:30 PM - Re: Regulator calibration (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 07:51 PM - Re: Seat Heater Question (Larry Bowen)
21. 08:05 PM - Re: Re: Shielded sensor wires (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
22. 08:09 PM - Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK LED (Charlie Kuss)
23. 09:08 PM - Re: Re: Shielded sensor wires (Terry Watson)
24. 09:23 PM - Fig Z-16 Rotax 912/914 System (Kingsley Hurst)
25. 10:10 PM - Re: Lighted Toggle Switches (Mickey Coggins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:22 AM 1/27/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
>
>Hi All,
>
>B & C has been my electrical supplier for my Moose project. I have been very
>pleased with their products and service. Two things they do not have in
>their inventory.
>
>
>1. A short strip of male quick connect fast on's to go on the engine side of
>the firewall to complement the 24 terminal ground block from B & C.
>Another 24 block is $26 a little steep for just a few engine side grounds.
>I have done a bunch of Google searches and found a manufacturer but no
>retail.
>Any Leads?
Those are hard to come by in small quantities. We've
spent a lot of time getting those strips in 10,000
part reels. This was one of the big drivers for bringing
that product to the marketplace. Occasionally, I've
run across dual fast-on males that attach with a screw.
These could be pop-riveted to a piece of brass and then
soldered.
I suspect the total $time$ spent may exceed the cost
of another block from B&C . . .
>2. I have been looking for some quality terminal blocks. The installation of
>out Aerocet Amphib Floats calls for terminal blocks to make the wire
>transitions from fuselage to floats (a bunch of wires for all that gear up
>and down stuff). I finally found a style that I though would work well
>manufactured by Marco. A mill spec MS27212 screw post block. Just the
>ticket! Great! Then found them for sale at Chief Aircraft ...
>20 terminal block (which can be cut) with # 6 screw posts ONLY $69.95. ARE
>THEY OUT OF THEIR MINDS.
Nope, just an increasingly rare, threaded terminal
product out of yesteryear. Nobody uses them much
any more.
> Also a 16 terminal #10 screw (could really torque
>those babies) a bargin at $31.95.
>Maybe I will use D-sub connectors.
If all the wires are signal and control stuff, 20 or 22AWG,
then the D-sub is ideal.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Alternator - Thermocouples |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Clay R <clayr_55@yahoo.com>
Listers,
I have an issue that touches on several recently
discussed subjects and combines them in a new and
interesting way.
I have van's 60A alternator (internally regulated)
wired as depicted in Z-24 with a contactor to isolate
it if field voltage is removed via the switch or OV
protection.
I also have a Blue Mountain EFIS/One, using grounded
thermocouples for the EGTs.
I have a central ground point for everything, using
the B&C firewall ground block, and a big B&C ground
strap going from that bolt to the engine block.
I started the engine for the first time on Sunday.
Everything looked good, and the voltage went from 12v
to 13.5v when I turned on the alt field after start.
However, I noticed my EGT temps were jumping wildly.
CHTs were OK.
On the 2nd start, I tried turning the Alt Field off,
and the EGT numbers were nice and steady. Alt field
back on, and they jumped around.. alt off, and they
were steady.
By the 3rd start, I noticed that when I turned the alt
field on, the voltage no longer went up to 13.5, but
stayed right at 12v. However, the EGTs did continue
to jump when the alt switch was on, but were steady
with it off. (what is the significance of this?)
Does anyone know where this is going yet?
I took the alternator off the plane, and took it to an
auto parts store to be checked. They said it failed
the tests.
(I wish I would have run the tests mentioned in the
connection first, but didn't have it with me at the
time)
After talking to Vans, they said I probably blew the
voltage regulator by switching off the field that
disconnected the B-lead at the contactor. Switching
off field after it has started doesn't stop the
alternator because it gets field power from the
B-lead. They said they've been seeing this a lot
lately on alternators wired per z-24.
Would it be an accurate statement to say that:
"Turning off the alt field after it has been turned on
for an internally regulated alternator wired as
depicted in Z-24 is a death sentence for the
alternator. An overvolt condition will also open the
contactor and finish off the alternator for good."
If so, this might be a handy piece of information to
add to that diagram because it would have saved me
some trouble.
As far as my EGT troubles go, I'll have to
troubleshoot that some more after I get my alternator
fixed, but I'm going to start by making sure the
ground strap is making good contact with the engine
case. Any other things I should check?
I suppose another "alternative" is to switch to an
externally regulated alternator, but I can't see
spending over $800 for the B&C alternator/regulator
combo for my VFR only plane. Aren't there some more
reasonable alternatives?
Thanks,
Clay
__________________________________
Message 3
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| Subject: | Wiring PTT button |
tests=MSGID_FROM_MTA_HEADER
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "jack eckdahl" <eckdahl@dellmail.com>
I have one of the wooden stick grips purchased through Vans. The PTT button has
two tiny posts and my instructions say to wire across these two posts. My
wire to the PTT has is shielded. How is this connection made? thanks for any
help you might offer. Jack
--
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Don -
I bought the firewall ground package from B&C. It included a 48 tab brass
board for the cabin side and a 24 tab brass board for the enginer side.
Included were spacer washers and the studs and nuts to fasten it it to the
firewall and connect the two pieces electrically.
Cheers,
John Schroeder
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 02:22:28 -0500, Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman
> <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> B & C has been my electrical supplier for my Moose project. I have been
> very
> pleased with their products and service. Two things they do not have in
> their inventory.
>
>
> 1. A short strip of male quick connect fast on's to go on the engine
> side of
> the firewall to complement the 24 terminal ground block from B & C.
> Another 24 block is $26 a little steep for just a few engine side
> grounds.
> I have done a bunch of Google searches and found a manufacturer but no
> retail.
> Any Leads?
>
>
> 2. I have been looking for some quality terminal blocks. The
> installation of
> out Aerocet Amphib Floats calls for terminal blocks to make the wire
> transitions from fuselage to floats (a bunch of wires for all that gear
> up
> and down stuff). I finally found a style that I though would work well
> manufactured by Marco. A mill spec MS27212 screw post block. Just the
> ticket! Great! Then found them for sale at Chief Aircraft ...
> 20 terminal block (which can be cut) with # 6 screw posts ONLY $69.95.
> ARE
> THEY OUT OF THEIR MINDS. Also a 16 terminal #10 screw (could really
> torque
> those babies) a bargin at $31.95.
> Maybe I will use D-sub connectors.
>
> Help!
> Comments,
> Don B
>
>
--
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
Don,
Regarding the ground terminals, I'm not sure, but I
"think" that the ground block terminal portion of the
fuse block that Stein sells can be removed from the
rest of the fuse block.
Might be a little cheaper and if you need another fuse
block somewhere, maybe you could kill two birds with
one stone by splitting it up.
Check with Stein at steinair.com first though, because
I don't have one in my hands to verify.
Mike
__________________________________
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wiring for my LOM |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Leonard Garceau" <lhgcpg@westriv.com>
Hi Bob,
I'm putting a LOM in my Glastar. The newer engines have the B & C alternator.
YEH! I have the wiring diagram for the LOM with a generator. Should I combine
the LOM diagram with some other diagram?
Leonard
Message 7
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| Subject: | manual battery switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: klehman@albedo.net
Any thoughts on the suitability of this $13. manual battery switch. It's
light and cheap. Supposed to be good for 300 amps.
http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=ACC-41860
thanks
Ken
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: NKK LED toggle switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <kkinney@fuse.net>
I've got a few of the NKK LED toggle switches. I specifically asked for a progressive
on toggle and they simply don't make them. Darn.
I don't have the switches with me at the moment, but I believe you have to power
them with 5v. Not a problem if you're running PLC's on your ship, but who wants
to set up a separate power bus just for switches?
(OK, maybe *me* since they look so cool...)
If you want photos of these switches, let me know.
Regards,
Kevin Kinney
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Shielded sensor wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Clay R <clayr_55@yahoo.com>
(I'm posting Greg's reply to the list for him)
Bob is right and we do use the Analog Devices chip he
describes. The chip does the ice point compensation
as he describes also, and connects the low side of the
thermocouple to ground to establish bias. If there is
not a good ground path from the EFIS to the engine,
current can flow along the braided shield of a
grounded thermocouple causing offset errors.
We specify floating (ungrounded) probes for the same
reason EI does -- it avoids having conversations with
builders about ground loops, and explaining why they
should have bought Bob's book.
-Greg Richter
Blue Mountain Avionics
__________________________________
Message 10
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| Subject: | Regulator calibration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh@qualcomm.com>
I have the B&C LR-3 12V regulator with the B&C 60 Amp alternator and the
Odyssey PC-680 battery. First flight shows 13.4 volts on the charging
system. My memory says that it should be more like 14.2 so tomorrow I am
going to connect my DVM right up to the aft mounted battery and check
actual charging voltage at the battery. Does anybody know the correct
charging voltage for this battery?
thanks,
Scot
P.S. - First flight on this aircraft, my F1 Rocket, was on
Saturday. Amazing power!!!
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: manual battery switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:21 PM 1/27/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: klehman@albedo.net
>
>Any thoughts on the suitability of this $13. manual battery switch. It's
>light and cheap. Supposed to be good for 300 amps.
>http://www.batterymart.com/battery.mv?p=ACC-41860
>thanks
>Ken
I've seen this switch . . . on some boats and airplanes.
I think it will be fine.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring PTT button |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:07 AM 1/27/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "jack eckdahl" <eckdahl@dellmail.com>
>
> I have one of the wooden stick grips purchased through Vans. The PTT
> button has two tiny posts and my instructions say to wire across these
> two posts. My wire to the PTT has is shielded. How is this connection
> made? thanks for any help you might offer. Jack
center conductor to one terminal, shield to other
terminal. See
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html
through step 5 on how to handle the shield pigtail.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Shielded sensor wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Bob, Trampas, Clay
Thanks for your responses to my questions about thermocouple and other
sensor wiring. I ordered 25' of 20 ga stranded thermocouple wire from
Omega.com this morning and this is what I will use to extend the wires from
the EGT thermocouples on to the EFIS 37 pin connector.
Just one last (I hope!) question: As I mentioned before, red and yellow
marked solid wires off the sensor are terminated with male and female spade
connectors, as are the solid extension wires that I have and have decided
not to use. What is an acceptable splice between the solid wires off the
sensor and the new multi-strand wire that I have on order? The spade
connectors add a lot of bulk to the whole bunch of wires. They are crimped,
not soldered. Can I replace them with crimped butt splices? Or do I need
to go the silver solder route as you describe in your book, Bob?
Also, Greg told me that the technician who told me that the thermocouple
wire only has to go through the firewall doesn't work for Blue Mountain
anymore.
Thanks,
Terry
RV-8a BMA EFIS/one
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring for my LOM |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:32 PM 1/27/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Leonard Garceau"
><lhgcpg@westriv.com>
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>I'm putting a LOM in my Glastar. The newer engines have the B & C
>alternator. YEH! I have the wiring diagram for the LOM with a
>generator. Should I combine the LOM diagram with some other diagram?
or check figure Z-18 of
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev10/z10.pdf
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Regulator calibration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:01 PM 1/27/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh
><sstambaugh@qualcomm.com>
>
>I have the B&C LR-3 12V regulator with the B&C 60 Amp alternator and the
>Odyssey PC-680 battery. First flight shows 13.4 volts on the charging
>system. My memory says that it should be more like 14.2 so tomorrow I am
>going to connect my DVM right up to the aft mounted battery and check
>actual charging voltage at the battery. Does anybody know the correct
>charging voltage for this battery?
>
>thanks,
>
>Scot
>
>P.S. - First flight on this aircraft, my F1 Rocket, was on
>Saturday. Amazing power!!!
First, check the voltage right at the regulator on terminal
3. This is the voltage that the regulator is trying to control.
Then check voltage at the bus. If they are substantially
different . . . there are some wiring/design issues to
dope out. Terminal 3 should run no lower than .1 volt
below bus voltage. After you're sure they're tracking,
adjust the regulator for 14.2 at the bus.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Regulator calibration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh@qualcomm.com>
Thanks Bob. Shouldn't I be concerned about the voltage at the battery? I
don't want to cook it.
scot
At 06:29 PM 1/27/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>At 03:01 PM 1/27/2004 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh
> ><sstambaugh@qualcomm.com>
> >
> >I have the B&C LR-3 12V regulator with the B&C 60 Amp alternator and the
> >Odyssey PC-680 battery. First flight shows 13.4 volts on the charging
> >system. My memory says that it should be more like 14.2 so tomorrow I am
> >going to connect my DVM right up to the aft mounted battery and check
> >actual charging voltage at the battery. Does anybody know the correct
> >charging voltage for this battery?
> >
> >thanks,
> >
> >Scot
> >
> >P.S. - First flight on this aircraft, my F1 Rocket, was on
> >Saturday. Amazing power!!!
>
> First, check the voltage right at the regulator on terminal
> 3. This is the voltage that the regulator is trying to control.
> Then check voltage at the bus. If they are substantially
> different . . . there are some wiring/design issues to
> dope out. Terminal 3 should run no lower than .1 volt
> below bus voltage. After you're sure they're tracking,
> adjust the regulator for 14.2 at the bus.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> -----------------------------------------
> ( Experience and common sense cannot be )
> ( replaced with policy and procedures. )
> ( R. L. Nuckolls III )
> -----------------------------------------
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Seat Heater Question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Larry,
What is the steady state current draw of each seat?
Charlie Kuss
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
>My seat heater documentation call for a 10A fuse too. About 6A is the
>max I've seen, just as they are turned on. That's 6A per seat, both
>butt and back heaters.
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:bob.nuckolls@cox.net]
>> Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 5:01 PM
>> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Seat Heater Question
>>
>>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>> --> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>>
>> 10A is the protection size . . . what's the REAL
>> current? In any case, consider mounting your relays
>> at the battery bus and put 10A fuses on the bus to
>> power the heaters. Operate the relay controls through
>> switches that get power from the main bus so that
>> they power down during parked and alternator-out operations.
>>
>> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Shielded sensor wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "AI Nut" <ainut@earthlink.net>
Terry, in case you didn't notice, you can't use the same type of
"thermocouple wire" for both leads. The type of wire (metals) must match
the metals on either side of the junction.
AI Nut
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Shielded sensor wires
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson"
<terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Bob, Trampas, Clay
>
> Thanks for your responses to my questions about thermocouple and other
> sensor wiring. I ordered 25' of 20 ga stranded thermocouple wire from
> Omega.com this morning and this is what I will use to extend the wires
from
> the EGT thermocouples on to the EFIS 37 pin connector.
>
> Just one last (I hope!) question: As I mentioned before, red and yellow
> marked solid wires off the sensor are terminated with male and female
spade
> connectors, as are the solid extension wires that I have and have decided
> not to use. What is an acceptable splice between the solid wires off the
> sensor and the new multi-strand wire that I have on order? The spade
> connectors add a lot of bulk to the whole bunch of wires. They are
crimped,
> not soldered. Can I replace them with crimped butt splices? Or do I need
> to go the silver solder route as you describe in your book, Bob?
>
> Also, Greg told me that the technician who told me that the thermocouple
> wire only has to go through the firewall doesn't work for Blue Mountain
> anymore.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Terry
> RV-8a BMA EFIS/one
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Regulator calibration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:57 PM 1/27/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh
><sstambaugh@qualcomm.com>
>
>Thanks Bob. Shouldn't I be concerned about the voltage at the battery? I
>don't want to cook it.
>
>scot
If your regulator voltage is the same as your bus voltage,
there's no way the battery voltage is going to be any
different.
Bob . . .
Message 20
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| Subject: | Seat Heater Question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
It varies. The "brain" powers back once the max temp is reached and
only kicks in as needed to maintain temperature. I didn't do exhaustive
testing on this aspect of it, but I saw it vary from 2-6A.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Charlie Kuss [mailto:chaskuss@bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 8:12 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Seat Heater Question
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> --> <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Larry,
> What is the steady state current draw of each seat?
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
> >--> <Larry@BowenAero.com>
> >
> >My seat heater documentation call for a 10A fuse too. About
> 6A is the
> >max I've seen, just as they are turned on. That's 6A per seat, both
> >butt and back heaters.
> >
> >-
> >Larry Bowen
> >Larry@BowenAero.com
> >http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III [mailto:bob.nuckolls@cox.net]
> >> Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 5:01 PM
> >> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Seat Heater Question
> >>
> >>
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> >> --> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >>
> >> 10A is the protection size . . . what's the REAL
> >> current? In any case, consider mounting your relays
> >> at the battery bus and put 10A fuses on the bus to
> >> power the heaters. Operate the relay controls through
> >> switches that get power from the main bus so that
> >> they power down during parked and alternator-out operations.
> >>
> >> Bob . . .
> >
> >
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
> Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Shielded sensor wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:23 PM 1/27/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
>Bob, Trampas, Clay
>
>Thanks for your responses to my questions about thermocouple and other
>sensor wiring. I ordered 25' of 20 ga stranded thermocouple wire from
>Omega.com this morning and this is what I will use to extend the wires from
>the EGT thermocouples on to the EFIS 37 pin connector.
>
>Just one last (I hope!) question: As I mentioned before, red and yellow
>marked solid wires off the sensor are terminated with male and female spade
>connectors, as are the solid extension wires that I have and have decided
>not to use. What is an acceptable splice between the solid wires off the
>sensor and the new multi-strand wire that I have on order? The spade
>connectors add a lot of bulk to the whole bunch of wires. They are crimped,
>not soldered. Can I replace them with crimped butt splices? Or do I need
>to go the silver solder route as you describe in your book, Bob?
Your option. Butt splices work pretty well. Further, if you've got
a good solder (Kester Resin 44 63/37) and a hot iron, you can get
a good soldered joint on thermocouple wire with tin-lead solder.
Another option: A few months ago I did some work on pitot heaters
for Beechjet and needed to cut a bundle of t/c wire for rerouting.
I didn't have a PIDG tool in my toolbox but DID have some machined
d-sub pins. I really like the way the 4-quadrant crimp grabs the
relatively hard t/c wire. So, I crimped d-sub pins on staggered
joints like this:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/TC_Splice/thermosplice1.jpg
soldered the d-sub pins together like this:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/TC_Splice/thermosplice2.jpg
and covered the joints up with heat shrink thusly:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/TC_Splice/thermosplice3.jpg
Shazzam! Nice, compact splices.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK LED |
toggle switches
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
toggle switches
Kenny,
Like Bob, I checked out the specs on these switches. Your choices are rather limited.
They only come in 3 amp & 6 amp ratings. They only come with solder on
connections. As Bob said, no 2-10 style available. I would suggest that you check
out Carling Technologies LT series of lighted toggle switches at:
http://toggle-switches.carlingtech.com/illuminated-toggle-switch__48.asp
&
http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_lt.pdf
Carling is the manufacturer of the switches sold by B&C Specialties. The LT series
comes available with 5 different lighting colors and comes in a wide variety
of switch styles. They have switches rated up to 15 amps as well. They are
also available with 1/4" fast on terminals (as recommended by Bob).
I've checked with my local distributor. He can get any of these switches, but
there is a 10 unit minimum for EACH part number ordered. I believe there is also
a quantity price break available. I was wondering if anyone would be interested
in getting together a group purchase of these? I could co-ordinate the purchase.
We would probably need at least 8 builders to be able to meet the minimum
for the 2-10 style (master/alternator) switches. With a few more folks, we
could probably have enough to get a quantity price break on the more common (1-3,
2-1, 2-2 & 2-3) switches and save some money. Anyone interested?
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <kkinney@fuse.net>
>
>
>I've got a few of the NKK LED toggle switches. I specifically asked for a progressive
on toggle and they simply don't make them. Darn.
>
>I don't have the switches with me at the moment, but I believe you have to power
them with 5v. Not a problem if you're running PLC's on your ship, but who
wants to set up a separate power bus just for switches?
>(OK, maybe *me* since they look so cool...)
>
>If you want photos of these switches, let me know.
>
>Regards,
>Kevin Kinney
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Shielded sensor wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Excellent! I can do that, and it will be a lot less bulky than the other
way. I just happen to have the right crimper, since I won it as a door
prize from you at Fort Worth last February.
Thanks Bob!
>
>Just one last (I hope!) question: As I mentioned before, red and yellow
>marked solid wires off the sensor are terminated with male and female spade
>connectors, as are the solid extension wires that I have and have decided
>not to use. What is an acceptable splice between the solid wires off the
>sensor and the new multi-strand wire that I have on order? The spade
>connectors add a lot of bulk to the whole bunch of wires. They are
crimped,
>not soldered. Can I replace them with crimped butt splices? Or do I need
>to go the silver solder route as you describe in your book, Bob?
Your option. Butt splices work pretty well. Further, if you've got
a good solder (Kester Resin 44 63/37) and a hot iron, you can get
a good soldered joint on thermocouple wire with tin-lead solder.
Another option: A few months ago I did some work on pitot heaters
for Beechjet and needed to cut a bundle of t/c wire for rerouting.
I didn't have a PIDG tool in my toolbox but DID have some machined
d-sub pins. I really like the way the 4-quadrant crimp grabs the
relatively hard t/c wire. So, I crimped d-sub pins on staggered
joints like this:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/TC_Splice/thermosplice1.jpg
soldered the d-sub pins together like this:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/TC_Splice/thermosplice2.jpg
and covered the joints up with heat shrink thusly:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/TC_Splice/thermosplice3.jpg
Shazzam! Nice, compact splices.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 24
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| Subject: | Fig Z-16 Rotax 912/914 System |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Kingsley Hurst" <khurst@taroom.qld.gov.au>
Bob et.al.
I feel deprived not being able to attend one of your seminars owing to
where I live. I am therefore grateful for the opportunity to tap into
the combined wisdom available on this list.
In my endeavour to more fully understand the principles being applied
and to try to gain more confidence in my ability to interpret the
diagrams, I would be most obliged if you or others could help me with
the following queries - ALL in respect of Fig Z-16 Rotax 912/914
System. I have a plain vanilla Rotax 912 engine and a Europa aircraft
(composite) with no bells or whistles and will be flying only day VFR.
My queries
1 Reason for the fusible link in series with the 5A CB in the line
from the main bus to terminal 5 on S1, Master Switch?
2 Reason for the fusible link as opposed to an inline fuse in
series with the Alternator Warn light?
3 As I see the Alt Warn light in this circuit, the warning it
provides is that the alternator is "off line" rather than that it is not
charging. If I also connect another warning light between terminal 4 of
the Master Switch and terminal "L" on the regulator (or "L" and "C" on
the regulator), will this light illuminate when the engine is not
running with the Master Sw turned fully on and extinguish as the
alternator voltage rises after start-up?
I realise these questions are very basic but there is a very good reason
for this!!
Thanks in anticipation.
Kingsley Hurst
Europa Classic 281 in Oz
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Lighted Toggle Switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Charlie,
These look totally cool. I have not given this a lot of
thought, but how would you used the colors in your airplane?
I can see a lot of possibilities that could reduce workload
and increase safety.
Thanks,
Mickey
>http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_lt.pdf
>
>Carling is the manufacturer of the switches sold by B&C Specialties. The LT series
comes available with 5 different lighting colors and comes in a wide variety
of switch styles. They have switches rated up to 15 amps as well. They are
also available with 1/4" fast on terminals (as recommended by --
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wings
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