Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:11 AM - Fw: RV-7 wing tip COM antenna installation (Dan Checkoway)
2. 02:03 AM - Rochester cht sender. (jakent@unison.ie)
3. 04:21 AM - Re: Re: Shielded sensor wires (Trampas)
4. 05:54 AM - Re: Lighted Toggle Switches (Charlie Kuss)
5. 06:06 AM - Re: Rochester cht sender. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 06:09 AM - Re: Fw: RV-7 wing tip COM antenna (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 06:47 AM - Re: Shielded sensor wires (George Braly)
8. 07:29 AM - Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks (Jerzy Krasinski)
9. 07:30 AM - Re: Alternator - Thermocouples (Wallace Enga)
10. 07:57 AM - Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK LED toggle switches (John Schroeder)
11. 08:00 AM - Re: Re: NKK LED toggle switches (Lyle Peterson)
12. 08:00 AM - Re: Rochester cht sender. (Lyle Peterson)
13. 08:21 AM - Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches (John Schroeder)
14. 08:22 AM - Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks (Letempt, Jeffrey CW4)
15. 08:34 AM - Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks (Bob Bittner)
16. 08:36 AM - Re: Re: NKK LED toggle switches (Charlie Kuss)
17. 08:42 AM - Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK LED toggle (flmike)
18. 08:51 AM - Re: Shielded sensor wires (John Schroeder)
19. 09:08 AM - Re: Wiring PTT button (Kent Ashton)
20. 09:08 AM - Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK LED (Charlie Kuss)
21. 09:15 AM - Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks (Richard Tasker)
22. 09:16 AM - Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks (John Schroeder)
23. 09:16 AM - Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks (Richard Tasker)
24. 09:20 AM - Re: Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK (Charlie Kuss)
25. 09:24 AM - GNC-300XL (Vincent Welch)
26. 09:43 AM - Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches (Dave Morris)
27. 09:58 AM - Re: GNC-300XL (Ageless Wings)
28. 10:32 AM - Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK LED toggle (flmike)
29. 10:32 AM - Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK LED toggle switches (John Schroeder)
30. 10:41 AM - Starter Engaged Light (John Schroeder)
31. 11:28 AM - Re: GNC-300XL (Vincent Welch)
32. 12:15 PM - Fw: RV-7 wing tip COM antenna installation (Dan Checkoway)
33. 12:41 PM - Re: GNC-300XL ('Scott Richardson')
34. 01:04 PM - Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches (John Schroeder)
35. 01:11 PM - Co ax antenna snap rings (kempthornes)
36. 04:45 PM - Guarded Switches (David Schaefer)
37. 05:29 PM - Re: Re: NKK LED toggle switches (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
38. 05:32 PM - Re: Rochester cht sender. (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
39. 06:43 PM - Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches now Panels (Dave Morris)
40. 08:15 PM - Re: Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK (Charlie Kuss)
41. 08:35 PM - Fast on's to make Terminal Blocks (Don Boardman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fw: RV-7 wing tip COM antenna installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I just sent this message to Bob Archer, but I figure I should fwd it to the
aeroelectric-list to see what the community feedback is...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-7 wing tip COM antenna installation
Bob,
I purchased wing tip VOR & COM antennas from you last year, and I'm finally
getting around to installing them. The VOR antenna installation is a
no-brainer thanks to your instructions. The COM antenna, however, is a
little trickier due to the shape of the RV-7 wing tips (sheared, with
built-in lighting provision).
Here is a web page with photos to illustrate my issues:
http://www.rvproject.com/archer.html
1) Can the antenna be somewhat tightly arched and still perform well?
Bending it in an arch would improve its vertical profile, if that's
acceptable.
2) Can the antenna be grounded with a wire instead of directly contacting
the airframe? I'd like to mount it a few inches outboard from the wing tip
opening, and I assume I would need to use a ground jumper wire?
3) Do the strobe/position wires absolutely need to route along the antenna's
leading edge even if they otherwise would not CROSS the antenna? Mine can
run several inches ahead of the antenna, not crossing it.
Please let me know if you need more photos or explanation of my issues.
Thanks very much!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Rochester cht sender. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: jakent@unison.ie
Bob & all, I have a Rochester gauge cluster out of a Robinson R-22 that is going
in my RV-4. I have no matching cht sender. I will be using an engine monitor
with bayonet senders, but want the Rochester as a back-up with a spark plug ring
type sender. Does any-one know whether I will need a J-type or K-type, or
other kind of thermocouple sender ? Thanks ... John Kent. (RV-4#3254, Ireland).
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Shielded sensor wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
Terry,
The thermocouple wire can be connected with crimped butt splices. However
note that in my opinion, which should be taken with a grain of salt,
soldering and heat shrink makes better connections.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Watson
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: Shielded sensor wires
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Bob, Trampas, Clay
Thanks for your responses to my questions about thermocouple and other
sensor wiring. I ordered 25' of 20 ga stranded thermocouple wire from
Omega.com this morning and this is what I will use to extend the wires from
the EGT thermocouples on to the EFIS 37 pin connector.
Just one last (I hope!) question: As I mentioned before, red and yellow
marked solid wires off the sensor are terminated with male and female spade
connectors, as are the solid extension wires that I have and have decided
not to use. What is an acceptable splice between the solid wires off the
sensor and the new multi-strand wire that I have on order? The spade
connectors add a lot of bulk to the whole bunch of wires. They are crimped,
not soldered. Can I replace them with crimped butt splices? Or do I need
to go the silver solder route as you describe in your book, Bob?
Also, Greg told me that the technician who told me that the thermocouple
wire only has to go through the firewall doesn't work for Blue Mountain
anymore.
Thanks,
Terry
RV-8a BMA EFIS/one
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Lighted Toggle Switches |
Fernandez <EddyFernan@aol.com>, "Fabian Lefler": ;
<6.0.1.1.2.20040128070257.0277e008@127.0.0.1>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Mickey,
I've been pondering that question myself. Perhaps those interested could discuss
this. With night flying in mind, would you prefer to have the tip of the bat
handle lighted or dark when the switch is off?
These switches can display 2 or even 3 (for double throw models) different colors
to show the position of the switch in a darkened cockpit. You could have the
switches illuminate only when the circuit is energized OR you could use some
sort of color standard to identify when the switch is off or on. As an example
a simple 1-2 (on/off) switch could be lit as follows:
OFF red
ON green
For a 3 position switch (say a taxi/landing light switch) you could do the following:
OFF red
TAXI green
LANDING/TAXI blue
This would allow you to know the condition of any switched circuit merely by the
identifying color. You could leave the switches illuminated at all times (these
are LEDs, so should last a LONG time). You could also control them through
a lighting circuit, so that they would illuminate only during night flight. Any
alternate ideas will be appreciated.
One thing I should point out to anyone interested. The base of these switches
is wider than a standard toggle switch. If your panel or console real estate for
switches is severely limited, these may not be the best choice, as they can
not be spaced as closely together. Personally, I prefer to space switches a bit
farther apart than the absolute minimum. I have big hands and prefer a wider
spacing to prevent possible activation of 2 switches when I only intend to hit
one.
This is even more important if you are trying to activate a switch in turbulence.
For those interested, I can email a list of switches I'm considering using
for my 8A project. This might give you an starting point for the items you would
want for your project.
Charlie
>Charlie,
>
>These look totally cool. I have not given this a lot of
>thought, but how would you used the colors in your airplane?
>I can see a lot of possibilities that could reduce workload
>and increase safety.
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>
>>http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_lt.pdf
>>
>>Carling is the manufacturer of the switches sold by B&C Specialties. The LT series
comes available with 5 different lighting colors and comes in a wide variety
of switch styles. They have switches rated up to 15 amps as well. They are
also available with 1/4" fast on terminals (as recommended by --
>
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 Wings
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rochester cht sender. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:56 AM 1/28/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: jakent@unison.ie
>
>Bob & all, I have a Rochester gauge cluster out of a Robinson R-22 that is
>going in my RV-4. I have no matching cht sender. I will be using an engine
>monitor with bayonet senders, but want the Rochester as a back-up with a
>spark plug ring type sender. Does any-one know whether I will need a
>J-type or K-type, or other kind of thermocouple sender ?
>Thanks ... John Kent. (RV-4#3254, Ireland).
I've never seen a Rochester CHT that used thermocouples. They
MAY exist but the only one's I've seen were resistive sensor
elements that operate quite differently than the thermocouple
you propose to use.
Have you mounted this cluster yet? Compared to today's
technology, adding that instrument to your airplane
is like hanging a carbine lamp on the fender of your
car. I'm wondering about your concerns for "backup"
on engine gages. Likelihood of really NEEDING any
information that cluster presents is predicated on
failure of your electronic monitor. The only time
you would need backup is if there has been a SECOND
failure in the time frame of when the electronic
system craps until you can make comfortable arrival.
Probability of this is VERY low . . . like on the order
of one occurrence per 100,000 flight hours. I'll suggest
trashing that gage cluster. If you really, Really,
REALLY gotta have it. Then the 100% successful way
to incorporate it is to find out what Rochester
part goes in the cylinder head and acquiring it.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: RV-7 wing tip COM antenna |
installation
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
installation
At 12:10 AM 1/28/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I just sent this message to Bob Archer, but I figure I should fwd it to the
>aeroelectric-list to see what the community feedback is...
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>To: "Bob Archer" <bobsantennas@earthlink.net>
>Subject: RV-7 wing tip COM antenna installation
>
>Bob,
>
>I purchased wing tip VOR & COM antennas from you last year, and I'm finally
>getting around to installing them. The VOR antenna installation is a
>no-brainer thanks to your instructions. The COM antenna, however, is a
>little trickier due to the shape of the RV-7 wing tips (sheared, with
>built-in lighting provision).
>
>Here is a web page with photos to illustrate my issues:
>
>http://www.rvproject.com/archer.html
>
>1) Can the antenna be somewhat tightly arched and still perform well?
>Bending it in an arch would improve its vertical profile, if that's
>acceptable.
yes
>2) Can the antenna be grounded with a wire instead of directly contacting
>the airframe? I'd like to mount it a few inches outboard from the wing tip
>opening, and I assume I would need to use a ground jumper wire?
This has the risk of greatly altering performance. Attach
as recommended by manufacturer. That "ground" is part of
the antenna's tuning. Any changes, PARTICULARLY in grounding
will upset the matching section that most strongly affects
SWR.
>3) Do the strobe/position wires absolutely need to route along the antenna's
>leading edge even if they otherwise would not CROSS the antenna? Mine can
>run several inches ahead of the antenna, not crossing it.
fine
>Please let me know if you need more photos or explanation of my issues.
>Thanks very much!
It will be interesting to see what Mr. Archer has to say.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Shielded sensor wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "George Braly" <gwbraly@gami.com>
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski@direcway.com>
Allied Electronics (800) 433 5700, www.alliedelec.com has these
terminals and they sell them in quantities of 100.
They have 45 deg and 90 deg single, ~$7 per 100, cat # 839-3297, and #
839-3300.
Also, they have 45 and 90 deg dual terminals $8-$10 per 100,. cat #
839-3306, and many others.
Jerzy
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
>>
>>Hi All.............
>>
>>
>>1. A short strip of male quick connect fast on's to go on the engine side of
>>the firewall to complement the 24 terminal ground block from B & C.
>>Another 24 block is $26 a little steep for just a few engine side grounds.
>>I have done a bunch of Google searches and found a manufacturer but no
>>retail.
>>Any Leads?
>>
>>
>
> Those are hard to come by in small quantities. We've
> spent a lot of time getting those strips in 10,000
> part reels. This was one of the big drivers for bringing
> that product to the marketplace. Occasionally, I've
> run across dual fast-on males that attach with a screw.
> These could be pop-riveted to a piece of brass and then
> soldered.
>
> I suspect the total $time$ spent may exceed the cost
> of another block from B&C . . .
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator - Thermocouples |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Wallace Enga <wenga@svtv.com>
>
>
>By the 3rd start, I noticed that when I turned the alt
>field on, the voltage no longer went up to 13.5, but
>stayed right at 12v. However, the EGTs did continue
>to jump when the alt switch was on, but were steady
>with it off. (what is the significance of this?)
>
>Does anyone know where this is going yet?
>
>I took the alternator off the plane, and took it to an
>auto parts store to be checked. They said it failed
>the tests.
>
>(I wish I would have run the tests mentioned in the
>connection first, but didn't have it with me at the
>time)
>
>After talking to Vans, they said I probably blew the
>voltage regulator by switching off the field that
>disconnected the B-lead at the contactor. Switching
>off field after it has started doesn't stop the
>alternator because it gets field power from the
>B-lead. They said they've been seeing this a lot
>lately on alternators wired per z-24.
>
>Would it be an accurate statement to say that:
>"Turning off the alt field after it has been turned on
>for an internally regulated alternator wired as
>depicted in Z-24 is a death sentence for the
>alternator. An overvolt condition will also open the
>contactor and finish off the alternator for good."
>
>If so, this might be a handy piece of information to
>add to that diagram because it would have saved me
>some trouble.
>
>
>Thanks,
>Clay
>
>
>__________________________________
I haven't seen any reply or further info on Clay's Alternator problem.
I am very interested, as I am using the same overvoltage protection method on a
Nippondenso Alternator with a built in internal voltage regulator.
Why would "opening up the alternators output" with it running, blow the
voltage regulator?
Bob, anyone?
Thanks,
Wally
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK LED toggle |
switches
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Charlie -
We would be interested in a half dozen of the 2-10's and another half
dozen 1-3's. Any idea as to the cost?
I assume that each color combination would be a separate order for the
minimum of 10; as would be a ring vs. push-on terminal and toggle styles.
Might get kinda messy to accomodate too many choices.
BTW, which "circuit" as listed in the catalog PDF file is the 2-10?
As a preference we would like: 6x 2-10's, .25 tab (QC), clear paddle,
red-clear-green, 12 volt.
The hardest to reconcile may be the toggle style and the lighting
sequence. Another downside may be the current draw of the light. If it is
an LED, no problem.
Cheers,
John Schroeder
> http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_lt.pdf
> I've checked with my local distributor. He can get any of these
> switches, but there is a 10 unit minimum for EACH part number ordered. I
> believe there is also a quantity price break available. I was wondering
> if anyone would be interested in getting together a group purchase of
> these? I could co-ordinate the purchase. We would probably need at least
> 8 builders to be able to meet the minimum for the 2-10 style
> (master/alternator) switches.
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: NKK LED toggle switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap@access4less.net>
Kevin,
I am puzzled. What kind of switch are you referring to as 'progressive
on toggle'? I have never heard that used with regard to switches.
Lyle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
kkinney@fuse.net
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: NKK LED toggle switches
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <kkinney@fuse.net>
I've got a few of the NKK LED toggle switches. I specifically asked for
a progressive on toggle and they simply don't make them. Darn.
I don't have the switches with me at the moment, but I believe you have
to power them with 5v. Not a problem if you're running PLC's on your
ship, but who wants to set up a separate power bus just for switches?
(OK, maybe *me* since they look so cool...)
If you want photos of these switches, let me know.
Regards,
Kevin Kinney
==
==
==
==
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Rochester cht sender. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap@access4less.net>
Bob,
I haven't posted anything here. Just been lurking and learning. I had
to comment on the "carbine" lamp. I think those were "carbide" lamps.
They generated acetylene to burn for light. Is my foggy recollection
right?
Lyle Peterson
<snip>
Have you mounted this cluster yet? Compared to today's
technology, adding that instrument to your airplane
is like hanging a carbine lamp on the fender of your
car. I'm wondering about your concerns for "backup"
on engine gages. Likelihood of really NEEDING any
<snip>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lighted Toggle Switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Mickey -
I don't believe any workload is reduced by using lighted switches.:-))
IMHO, they are just plain sexy.
Do not archive
Cheers,
John
On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 07:10:13 +0100, Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
> <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Charlie,
>
> These look totally cool. I have not given this a lot of
> thought, but how would you used the colors in your airplane?
> I can see a lot of possibilities that could reduce workload
> and increase safety.
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
>
>> http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_lt.pdf
>>
>> Carling is the manufacturer of the switches sold by B&C Specialties.
>> The LT series comes available with 5 different lighting colors and
>> comes in a wide variety of switch styles. They have switches rated up
>> to 15 amps as well. They are also available with 1/4" fast on terminals
>> (as recommended by --
>
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wings
>
>
--
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Letempt, Jeffrey CW4" <jeffrey.letempt@us.army.mil>
Jerry,
Thanks for the information. I really like the multiple unit that has 10
fast on tabs Allied Stock #: 839-3310. Unfortunately I do not need 100 of
these babies, maybe 4 or 5 of them would do the trick. Anyone interested in
a group purchase?
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerzy Krasinski [mailto:krasinski@direcway.com]
To:
aeroelectric-list@matronics.com.Gecko/20030624.Netscape/7.1.HTML_TITLE_E
MPTY
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski
<krasinski@direcway.com>
Allied Electronics (800) 433 5700, www.alliedelec.com has these
terminals and they sell them in quantities of 100.
They have 45 deg and 90 deg single, ~$7 per 100, cat # 839-3297, and #
839-3300.
Also, they have 45 and 90 deg dual terminals $8-$10 per 100,. cat #
839-3306, and many others.
Jerzy
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman
<dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
>>
>>Hi All.............
>>
>>
>>1. A short strip of male quick connect fast on's to go on the engine side
of
>>the firewall to complement the 24 terminal ground block from B & C.
>>Another 24 block is $26 a little steep for just a few engine side grounds.
>>I have done a bunch of Google searches and found a manufacturer but no
>>retail.
>>Any Leads?
>>
>>
>
> Those are hard to come by in small quantities. We've
> spent a lot of time getting those strips in 10,000
> part reels. This was one of the big drivers for bringing
> that product to the marketplace. Occasionally, I've
> run across dual fast-on males that attach with a screw.
> These could be pop-riveted to a piece of brass and then
> soldered.
>
> I suspect the total $time$ spent may exceed the cost
> of another block from B&C . . .
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks |
01/28/2004 10:33:19 AM,
Serialize complete at 01/28/2004 10:33:19 AM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bob Bittner <rbittner@us.ibm.com>
I bought a bag of 100 dual-tab fast-ons for something like $6 from mouser.
I bought some brass from the HW store for $2 and solder paste for another
few $, Assemble with solder paste, hit the bottom with a torch, and it's
done. Worked pretty well for me, I got just the sizes I wanted (a few
extra, of course!) and I used half of the above costs.
Good Luck
Bob B
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: NKK LED toggle switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Lyle,
I believe that Kevin was referring to a double throw switch.
Charlie Kuss
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap@access4less.net>
>
>Kevin,
>
>I am puzzled. What kind of switch are you referring to as 'progressive
>on toggle'? I have never heard that used with regard to switches.
>
>Lyle
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>kkinney@fuse.net
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: NKK LED toggle switches
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <kkinney@fuse.net>
>
>
>I've got a few of the NKK LED toggle switches. I specifically asked for
>a progressive on toggle and they simply don't make them. Darn.
>
>I don't have the switches with me at the moment, but I believe you have
>to power them with 5v. Not a problem if you're running PLC's on your
>ship, but who wants to set up a separate power bus just for switches?
>(OK, maybe *me* since they look so cool...)
>
>If you want photos of these switches, let me know.
>
>Regards,
>Kevin Kinney
>
>
>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK LED toggle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
I'd get a sample of the Carlingswitch LT switch before
commiting to using them. Although in general I like
Carlingswitch stuff, I wouldn't use this switch in my
plane. It has a plastic body, plastic bushing, and
plastic handle. Some guys in our lab have used them
for power switches on test boxes, etc. and the handle
has broken off of a few. In my opinion that would be
a real bad thing to have happen in a plane. Bent I
can live with, but not broken off at the base.
Mike
__________________________________
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Shielded sensor wires |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
George -
Your last two postings to this site have been one long strin of characters
and numbers. Your's are the only ones that have ever come in like that to
my computer.
Do not archive
Cheers,
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wiring PTT button |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kent Ashton <kjashton@vnet.net>
Bob, these are great explanations and very helpful. You should get some
kind of special acknowledgement for your work supporting homebuilders.
--Kent A.
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> center conductor to one terminal, shield to other
> terminal. See
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html
Message 20
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|
James Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
| Subject: | Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK LED |
toggle switches
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
toggle switches
Hi John,
You are correct. According to the chart, the 2-10 (On-On-On) is not shown. The
folks at Carling are willing to tool up for requests however. I'll have to check
on minimum quantities for something of that nature. The price I was quoted
for the 10 unit minimum of either 1-2 or 1-3 switches was about $9 (I checked
several months ago) I'll contact the distributor again once I have a better feel
for what folks are interested in.
I realized at the beginning that there are so many variables it could get "sticky"
as you say. That's why I asked for a discussion; to try to form a consensus.
I am leaning more toward the bat (aka Snapkap in the Carling Catalog) style handles
as I feel that they would be more durable. Past experience with plastic
paddles has not been that they can be somewhat fragile.
The clear paddle handles will glow more brightly, as the entire paddle will light
up. The bat handles only glow on the tip, as the LED (yes, they are LEDs)
is mounted there. The paddles are perhaps nicer cosmetically. I think the bat
handles (available in satin chrome, bright chrome & black) would be sturdier.
I also feel that the paddle levers may emit to much light and be a distraction
at night.
This isn't a deal breaker issue for me. I could live with paddle levers if that
is what most people want.
I think all of us will want 12 volt models. Your choice of colors seems to be
the most logical of the choices available for a master/alternator switch. The
part number should look like this then:
LT-25(digit to be determined for 2-10)1-13-12
This breaks down as a double pole (2) 15 amp (5) 2-10 style switch (TBD) clear
paddle (1) red-clear-green (13) 12 volt (12)
See below for explanation of the part numbering system
http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_lt.pdf
I'll email Carling regarding making the 2-10 stye switches.
Charlie
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
>Charlie -
>
>We would be interested in a half dozen of the 2-10's and another half
>dozen 1-3's. Any idea as to the cost?
>
>I assume that each color combination would be a separate order for the
>minimum of 10; as would be a ring vs. push-on terminal and toggle styles.
>Might get kinda messy to accomodate too many choices.
>
>BTW, which "circuit" as listed in the catalog PDF file is the 2-10?
>
>As a preference we would like: 6x 2-10's, .25 tab (QC), clear paddle,
>red-clear-green, 12 volt.
>
>The hardest to reconcile may be the toggle style and the lighting
>sequence. Another downside may be the current draw of the light. If it is
>an LED, no problem.
>
>Cheers,
>
>John Schroeder
>
>> http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_lt.pdf
>
>> I've checked with my local distributor. He can get any of these
>> switches, but there is a 10 unit minimum for EACH part number ordered. I
>> believe there is also a quantity price break available. I was wondering
>> if anyone would be interested in getting together a group purchase of
>> these? I could co-ordinate the purchase. We would probably need at least
>> 8 builders to be able to meet the minimum for the 2-10 style
>> (master/alternator) switches.
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
These parts are made by Keystone Electronics (http://www.keyelco.com/)
and are sold by both Digikey (http://www.digikey.com) and Mouser
Electronics (http://www.mouser.com) both of whose prices are lower than
Allied. Mouser has no minimum order. Digikey has a $25 minimum order.
Dick Tasker, RV9A #90573
Jerzy Krasinski wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski@direcway.com>
>
>
>Allied Electronics (800) 433 5700, www.alliedelec.com has these
>terminals and they sell them in quantities of 100.
>They have 45 deg and 90 deg single, ~$7 per 100, cat # 839-3297, and #
>839-3300.
>Also, they have 45 and 90 deg dual terminals $8-$10 per 100,. cat #
>839-3306, and many others.
>Jerzy
>
>
>
>>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
>>>
>>>Hi All.............
>>>
>>>
>>>1. A short strip of male quick connect fast on's to go on the engine side of
>>>the firewall to complement the 24 terminal ground block from B & C.
>>>Another 24 block is $26 a little steep for just a few engine side grounds.
>>>I have done a bunch of Google searches and found a manufacturer but no
>>>retail.
>>>Any Leads?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Those are hard to come by in small quantities. We've
>> spent a lot of time getting those strips in 10,000
>> part reels. This was one of the big drivers for bringing
>> that product to the marketplace. Occasionally, I've
>> run across dual fast-on males that attach with a screw.
>> These could be pop-riveted to a piece of brass and then
>> soldered.
>>
>> I suspect the total $time$ spent may exceed the cost
>> of another block from B&C . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Jerry -
No, but I can trade you some 5/16" brass nuts and copper lock washers. We
had to buy a box of each. You can buy single studs from McMaster-Carr, but
not the nuts and washers!!!
Cheers,
John
On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 10:21:45 -0600, Letempt, Jeffrey CW4
<jeffrey.letempt@us.army.mil> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Letempt, Jeffrey CW4"
> <jeffrey.letempt@us.army.mil>
>
> Jerry,
>
> Thanks for the information. I really like the multiple unit that has 10
> fast on tabs Allied Stock #: 839-3310. Unfortunately I do not need 100
> of
> these babies, maybe 4 or 5 of them would do the trick. Anyone
> interested in
> a group purchase?
>
> Jeff
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jerzy Krasinski [mailto:krasinski@direcway.com]
> To:
> aeroelectric-list@matronics.com.Gecko/20030624.Netscape/7.1.HTML_TITLE_E
> MPTY
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski
> <krasinski@direcway.com>
>
>
> Allied Electronics (800) 433 5700, www.alliedelec.com has these
> terminals and they sell them in quantities of 100.
> They have 45 deg and 90 deg single, ~$7 per 100, cat # 839-3297, and #
> 839-3300.
> Also, they have 45 and 90 deg dual terminals $8-$10 per 100,. cat #
> 839-3306, and many others.
> Jerzy
>
>>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman
> <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
>>>
>>> Hi All.............
>>>
>>>
>>> 1. A short strip of male quick connect fast on's to go on the engine
>>> side
> of
>>> the firewall to complement the 24 terminal ground block from B & C.
>>> Another 24 block is $26 a little steep for just a few engine side
>>> grounds.
>>> I have done a bunch of Google searches and found a manufacturer but no
>>> retail.
>>> Any Leads?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Those are hard to come by in small quantities. We've
>> spent a lot of time getting those strips in 10,000
>> part reels. This was one of the big drivers for bringing
>> that product to the marketplace. Occasionally, I've
>> run across dual fast-on males that attach with a screw.
>> These could be pop-riveted to a piece of brass and then
>> soldered.
>>
>> I suspect the total $time$ spent may exceed the cost
>> of another block from B&C . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
I would be interested in some of them. But see my other email regarding
other sources.
Dick Tasker
Letempt, Jeffrey CW4 wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Letempt, Jeffrey CW4" <jeffrey.letempt@us.army.mil>
>
>Jerry,
>
>Thanks for the information. I really like the multiple unit that has 10
>fast on tabs Allied Stock #: 839-3310. Unfortunately I do not need 100 of
>these babies, maybe 4 or 5 of them would do the trick. Anyone interested in
>a group purchase?
>
>Jeff
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jerzy Krasinski [mailto:krasinski@direcway.com]
>To:
>aeroelectric-list@matronics.com.Gecko/20030624.Netscape/7.1.HTML_TITLE_E
>MPTY
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Searching-Fast on's / Terminal Blocks
>
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski
><krasinski@direcway.com>
>
>
>Allied Electronics (800) 433 5700, www.alliedelec.com has these
>terminals and they sell them in quantities of 100.
>They have 45 deg and 90 deg single, ~$7 per 100, cat # 839-3297, and #
>839-3300.
>Also, they have 45 and 90 deg dual terminals $8-$10 per 100,. cat #
>839-3306, and many others.
>Jerzy
>
>
>
>>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman
>>>
>>>
><dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
>
>
>>>Hi All.............
>>>
>>>
>>>1. A short strip of male quick connect fast on's to go on the engine side
>>>
>>>
>of
>
>
>>>the firewall to complement the 24 terminal ground block from B & C.
>>>Another 24 block is $26 a little steep for just a few engine side grounds.
>>>I have done a bunch of Google searches and found a manufacturer but no
>>>retail.
>>>Any Leads?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Those are hard to come by in small quantities. We've
>> spent a lot of time getting those strips in 10,000
>> part reels. This was one of the big drivers for bringing
>> that product to the marketplace. Occasionally, I've
>> run across dual fast-on males that attach with a screw.
>> These could be pop-riveted to a piece of brass and then
>> soldered.
>>
>> I suspect the total $time$ spent may exceed the cost
>> of another block from B&C . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK |
LED toggle
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
LED toggle
Mike
Thanks for the real world info. Could you find out if the switches they used were
paddle or bat style levers? I've had problems with paddle style switches myself.
I can get a sample at the local Boat Owners Warehouse near me. They market
these same Carling Switches. They are re boxed under another name by a marine
electrical parts vendor. I'll get one this afternoon.
Charlie
Charlie Kuss
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
>
>I'd get a sample of the Carlingswitch LT switch before
>commiting to using them. Although in general I like
>Carlingswitch stuff, I wouldn't use this switch in my
>plane. It has a plastic body, plastic bushing, and
>plastic handle. Some guys in our lab have used them
>for power switches on test boxes, etc. and the handle
>has broken off of a few. In my opinion that would be
>a real bad thing to have happen in a plane. Bent I
>can live with, but not broken off at the base.
>
>Mike
>
>__________________________________
>
>
Message 25
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Does anyone know where I can get an installation manual for a GNC-300XL? I
have checked Garmin's web site but they only list a user's manual for the
300XL. The web site has an installation manual for the 250XL. I need to
make up a harness and I don't know if the pin outs are the same. The user's
manual does not list pin outs.
Vince Welch
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lighted Toggle Switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
Another option if you guys are looking for the ultimate in "cool" is to
forget about lighted switches and go for a backlit switch panel,
professionally manufactured from your drawings by a company that does
flight simulator cockpits. Check out the stuff you can get at
www.AircraftSimulators.com
I just had 2 switch panels made up that you can see at
http://www.myglasscockpit.com/SwitchPanelLeft.jpg
and
http://www.myglasscockpit.com/SwitchPanelCenter.jpg
They can either supply the switches or supply the bare acrylic panel and
you provide your own switches.
Dave Morris
At 07:10 AM 1/28/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
><mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Charlie,
>
>These look totally cool. I have not given this a lot of
>thought, but how would you used the colors in your airplane?
>I can see a lot of possibilities that could reduce workload
>and increase safety.
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>
> >http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_lt.pdf
> >
> >Carling is the manufacturer of the switches sold by B&C Specialties. The
> LT series comes available with 5 different lighting colors and comes in a
> wide variety of switch styles. They have switches rated up to 15 amps as
> well. They are also available with 1/4" fast on terminals (as recommended by
--
>
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 Wings
>
>
Dave Morris
Message 27
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ageless Wings" <harley@agelesswings.com>
Vince...
I went to Yahoo, typed in the model number and "installation manual" and
this was the first page that came up:
http://www.mcico.com/pdf/7019813%20MD41-144X.pdf
Pages 5 and 6 appear to be the pinout.
Harley
Long EZ N28EZ...
in the hanger, getting sanded and primed!
Harley Dixon
Website: www.AgelessWings.com <http://www.AgelessWings.com/>
Email: harley@agelesswings.com <mailto:harley@agelesswings.com>
Henrietta, NY
USA
|-----Original Message-----
|From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
|[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
|Vincent Welch
|Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:24 PM
|To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com; rv-list@matronics.com
|Subject: AeroElectric-List: GNC-300XL
|
|
|--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch"
|<welchvincent@hotmail.com>
|
|Does anyone know where I can get an installation manual for a
|GNC-300XL? I
|have checked Garmin's web site but they only list a user's manual for the
|300XL. The web site has an installation manual for the 250XL. I need to
|make up a harness and I don't know if the pin outs are the same.
|The user's
|manual does not list pin outs.
|
|Vince Welch
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK LED toggle |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
The broken ones were paddle style, but I believe both
styles are translucent plastic (light pipes). I think
there is a metal sleeve option for the bat style, but
it is just a sleeve (I think).
Mike
__________________________________
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK LED toggle |
switches
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Hi Charley -
After reading the critique on the plastic paddle switches, I'd definiitely
prefer the bat snap kap handles - color "mox nix".
Thanks for taking the effort to work this issue.
Cheers,
John
On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 12:03:55 -0500, Charlie Kuss
<chaskuss@bellsouth.net toggle switches> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
> <chaskuss@bellsouth.net> toggle switches
>
> Hi John,
> You are correct. According to the chart, the 2-10 (On-On-On) is not
> shown. The folks at Carling are willing to tool up for requests however.
> I'll have to check on minimum quantities for something of that nature.
> The price I was quoted for the 10 unit minimum of either 1-2 or 1-3
> switches was about $9 (I checked several months ago) I'll contact the
> distributor again once I have a better feel for what folks are
> interested in.
> I realized at the beginning that there are so many variables it could
> get "sticky" as you say. That's why I asked for a discussion; to try to
> form a consensus.
> I am leaning more toward the bat (aka Snapkap in the Carling Catalog)
> style handles as I feel that they would be more durable. Past experience
> with plastic paddles has not been that they can be somewhat fragile.
> The clear paddle handles will glow more brightly, as the entire paddle
> will light up. The bat handles only glow on the tip, as the LED (yes,
> they are LEDs) is mounted there. The paddles are perhaps nicer
> cosmetically. I think the bat handles (available in satin chrome, bright
> chrome & black) would be sturdier. I also feel that the paddle levers
> may emit to much light and be a distraction at night.
> This isn't a deal breaker issue for me. I could live with paddle levers
> if that is what most people want.
> I think all of us will want 12 volt models. Your choice of colors seems
> to be the most logical of the choices available for a master/alternator
> switch. The part number should look like this then:
>
> LT-25(digit to be determined for 2-10)1-13-12
>
> This breaks down as a double pole (2) 15 amp (5) 2-10 style switch (TBD)
> clear paddle (1) red-clear-green (13) 12 volt (12)
>
> See below for explanation of the part numbering system
> http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_lt.pdf
>
> I'll email Carling regarding making the 2-10 stye switches.
>
> Charlie
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
>> <jschroeder@perigee.net>
>>
>> Charlie -
>>
>> We would be interested in a half dozen of the 2-10's and another half
>> dozen 1-3's. Any idea as to the cost?
>>
>> I assume that each color combination would be a separate order for the
>> minimum of 10; as would be a ring vs. push-on terminal and toggle
>> styles.
>> Might get kinda messy to accomodate too many choices.
>>
>> BTW, which "circuit" as listed in the catalog PDF file is the 2-10?
>>
>> As a preference we would like: 6x 2-10's, .25 tab (QC), clear paddle,
>> red-clear-green, 12 volt.
>>
>> The hardest to reconcile may be the toggle style and the lighting
>> sequence. Another downside may be the current draw of the light. If it
>> is
>> an LED, no problem.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> John Schroeder
>>
>>> http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/s_lt.pdf
>>
>>> I've checked with my local distributor. He can get any of these
>>> switches, but there is a 10 unit minimum for EACH part number ordered.
>>> I
>>> believe there is also a quantity price break available. I was wondering
>>> if anyone would be interested in getting together a group purchase of
>>> these? I could co-ordinate the purchase. We would probably need at
>>> least
>>> 8 builders to be able to meet the minimum for the 2-10 style
>>> (master/alternator) switches.
>>
>>
>
>
--
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Starter Engaged Light |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Bob Nuckolls -
On Z-14, where is the best place to take power for a "Starter Engaged"
annunciator light?
Many Thanks,
John Schroeder
Lancair ES - Batteries in the rear of the aircraft
Message 31
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Thanks for the info, BUT, that appears to be the installation manual for the
Mid-Continent ACU that is used with the GNC-300XL.
Vince
>From: "Ageless Wings" <harley@AgelessWings.com>
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>, <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: GNC-300XL
>Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 12:59:18 -0500
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ageless Wings"
><harley@agelesswings.com>
>
>Vince...
>
>I went to Yahoo, typed in the model number and "installation manual" and
>this was the first page that came up:
>
>http://www.mcico.com/pdf/7019813%20MD41-144X.pdf
>
>Pages 5 and 6 appear to be the pinout.
>
>Harley
>
>Long EZ N28EZ...
>
>in the hanger, getting sanded and primed!
>
>Harley Dixon
>
>Website: www.AgelessWings.com <http://www.AgelessWings.com/>
>
>Email: harley@agelesswings.com <mailto:harley@agelesswings.com>
>
>Henrietta, NY
>
>USA
>
>
>|-----Original Message-----
>|From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
>|[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>|Vincent Welch
>|Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:24 PM
>|To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com; rv-list@matronics.com
>|Subject: AeroElectric-List: GNC-300XL
>|
>|
>|--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch"
>|<welchvincent@hotmail.com>
>|
>|Does anyone know where I can get an installation manual for a
>|GNC-300XL? I
>|have checked Garmin's web site but they only list a user's manual for the
>|300XL. The web site has an installation manual for the 250XL. I need to
>|make up a harness and I don't know if the pin outs are the same.
>|The user's
>|manual does not list pin outs.
>|
>|Vince Welch
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|
>|
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Fw: RV-7 wing tip COM antenna installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
FYI, here's Bob's response.
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Archer" <bobsantennas@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-7 wing tip COM antenna installation
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> To: "Bob Archer" <bobsantennas@earthlink.net>
> Cc: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 11:53 PM
> Subject: RV-7 wing tip COM antenna installation
>
> Hi Dan;
>
> The Com antenna was developed when the Horner type tips were in vogue,
where
> the bottom surface sweeps up to the upper surface. I still like them
better
> from my point of view. But we now have to contend with the so called
sheared
> tips.
>
> The picture you showed with the antenna sweeping up to the upper surface
is
> fine. A local fellow put in a sheet of fiber glass angled from the bottom
to
> the top with the antenna installed on it. He bent the antenna up just next
> to the grounding strip.
>
> The antenna needs to be grounded along the grounding strip, wires are not
> good. If you installed a sheet of aluminum between the grounding strip and
> the end of the wing for grounding that would suffice. Sandwiching the
> antenna between the tip and the glass is the normal way to do it.
>
> About routing the wires to the lights, I don't know. I know it works well
> the way it is shown on the drawing but other than that? I would guess that
> it would be ok but I have been fooled before. There are so many different
> ways things could be done I haven't been able to test for every
possibility.
>
> Just let me know if you have any further questions.
>
> Regards
>
> Bob
>
>
> > Bob,
> >
> > I purchased wing tip VOR & COM antennas from you last year, and I'm
> finally
> > getting around to installing them. The VOR antenna installation is a
> > no-brainer thanks to your instructions. The COM antenna, however, is a
> > little trickier due to the shape of the RV-7 wing tips (sheared, with
> > built-in lighting provision).
> >
> > Here is a web page with photos to illustrate my issues:
> >
> > http://www.rvproject.com/archer.html
> >
> > 1) Can the antenna be somewhat tightly arched and still perform well?
> > Bending it in an arch would improve its vertical profile, if that's
> > acceptable.
> >
> > 2) Can the antenna be grounded with a wire instead of directly
contacting
> > the airframe? I'd like to mount it a few inches outboard from the wing
> tip
> > opening, and I assume I would need to use a ground jumper wire?
> >
> > 3) Do the strobe/position wires absolutely need to route along the
> antenna's
> > leading edge even if they otherwise would not CROSS the antenna? Mine
can
> > run several inches ahead of the antenna, not crossing it.
> >
> > Please let me know if you need more photos or explanation of my issues.
> > Thanks very much!
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
>
Message 33
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "'Scott Richardson'" <scott_m_richardson@sbcglobal.net>
Vince, I'll send you a copy.
I just emailed Garmin Tech Support and asked them for it and they
emailed
it to me within the hour. Same for the GTX-327 inst manuals.
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Vincent Welch
Subject: AeroElectric-List: GNC-300XL
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch"
--> <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Does anyone know where I can get an installation manual for a GNC-300XL?
I
have checked Garmin's web site but they only list a user's manual for
the
300XL. The web site has an installation manual for the 250XL. I need
to
make up a harness and I don't know if the pin outs are the same. The
user's
manual does not list pin outs.
Vince Welch
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lighted Toggle Switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Hi Dave -
Very nice looking panels. Some questions:
What do they charge for a panel like one of yours?
What do you use for backlighting?
If individual lights, what is the spacing and position behind the panels?
What kind of sockets for the lights?
Many thanks for the information.
John Schroeder
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Co ax antenna snap rings |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Hi,
Where can I get one of these?
(The about 0.040 inch snap ring that holds antenna cable plug to the rack
for radio, txp etc)
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Guarded Switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
What's a good source for 'guarded switches' of the kind you pull out to be
able to turn on (or off)? B&C doesn't carry them. The only ones I can find
are Honeywell and they're $40-70 per switch!
Regards,
David Schaefer
RV6-A FADEC Finishing Kit
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: NKK LED toggle switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:22 AM 1/28/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>Lyle,
> I believe that Kevin was referring to a double throw switch.
>Charlie Kuss
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lyle Peterson"
> <lyleap@access4less.net>
> >
> >Kevin,
> >
> >I am puzzled. What kind of switch are you referring to as 'progressive
> >on toggle'? I have never heard that used with regard to switches.
> >
Study the schematic symbols used for the -10 on-on-on
and -50 on-on-(on) switches in drawings at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/temp/ProgressiveSW.pdf
Also see:
http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com/printfriendly.asp?FAM=tr&PN=2NT1-10
and study the circuitry/operating action. When moving from one
extreme to the middle position, only one side of the switch transfers.
Continued motion in the opposite extreme transfers the second side,
hence the term "progressive" transfer.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Rochester cht sender. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:00 AM 1/28/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lyle Peterson"
><lyleap@access4less.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>I haven't posted anything here. Just been lurking and learning. I had
>to comment on the "carbine" lamp. I think those were "carbide" lamps.
>They generated acetylene to burn for light. Is my foggy recollection
>right?
yup, got my tongue tangled around my eyeteeth and
couldn't see what I was typing.
Bob . . .
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lighted Toggle Switches now Panels |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
About $75 to $100 per panel, and that's including all switches and
pots. Supply your own electrical components and it's considerably
cheaper. I'm planning to put some high intensity LEDs 4 or 5 inches behind
the panels facing forward. I have not yet decided on how to mount them, but
the panels are designed to be backlit, and they should look really sharp
with red LEDs illuminating them.
Dave
At 03:03 PM 1/28/2004, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
><jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
>Hi Dave -
>
>Very nice looking panels. Some questions:
>
>What do they charge for a panel like one of yours?
>
>What do you use for backlighting?
>
>If individual lights, what is the spacing and position behind the panels?
>
>What kind of sockets for the lights?
>
>Many thanks for the information.
>
>John Schroeder
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches was NKK |
LED toggle
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
LED toggle
Mike,
I stopped by my local BOW (Boat Owners Warehouse) this afternoon. I found several
of the Carling Technologies LT (lighted toggle) series switches there (re
packaged under different brand names) I paid about $13.50 each for these (compared
to $9 at my local Carling Dist.)
The Bat handles are definitely sturdier. The bright chrome and brushed chrome
models have a metal sleeve on them. It is "just" a sleeve, as you said.
One thing I noticed was that these switches are Made in Mexico. I also noticed
another brand (Hubbell) which are made in the USA. I just did a quick search
of their marine catalog. It appears that the selection is rather limited. I'll
try to call both Carling and Hubbell tomorrow, if I have time. I'll try to speak
to someone in the tech department. I want to find out what switch styles (electrically)
are available. I also want to see if Carling has any LT series switches
that are USA made. Externally, the Carling LTs look good. No idea what
they are like inside. The ones I bought are rated for 15 amps DC. I'd like to
ask the tech folks how many cycles these switches are designed for. (MTBF)
Charlie
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
>
>The broken ones were paddle style, but I believe both
>styles are translucent plastic (light pipes). I think
>there is a metal sleeve option for the bat style, but
>it is just a sleeve (I think).
>
>Mike
>
>__________________________________
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Fast on's to make Terminal Blocks |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
Hi All,
Thanks very much for the responses to my Fast-on request.
I guess I need to improve my searching skills in the big catalogs!
The strips of 5, 90 degree doubles, would be tempting if I was into making
larger grounding blocks. I already have a 24 from B&C and I will only need a
few grounds on the engine side of the firewall.
I am thinking that the single, double male 90's or 45's, would be fine to
make up say an 8-10 terminal ground block.
Anyone working with the 45's ?
I have also been debating how to make connections for situations that
typically use the screw type terminal blocks. (Float wiring, etc)
WHY NOT USE THE SEPARATE DOUBLE MALE FAST-ON'S RIVETED/FASTENED TO A
NONCONDUCTIVE SURFACE TO FABRICATE FAST-ON TERMINAL BLOCKS?
This would seem to give the convenience of a terminal block with the
desirable connectivity of Fast-ons.
Comments ...
Don B.
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