Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:00 AM - Re: Quick connects (Dan Checkoway)
2. 12:11 AM - Re: Fig Z-16 Rotax 912/914 System (Michel RIAZUELO)
3. 01:39 AM - Re: Fig Z-16 Rotax 912/914 System (Gilles Thesee)
4. 07:03 AM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 41 Msgs - (Charlie Kuss)
5. 09:26 AM - Re: Re: Lighted Toggle Switches now Panels (Dave Morris)
6. 10:44 AM - Re: several questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 01:40 PM - Alternator Field Wiring (John Schroeder)
8. 07:12 PM - Re: Alternator Field Wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 07:14 PM - Re: Fig Z-16 Rotax 912/914 System (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Quick connects |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
All of the suggestions given are good ones. The problem with using a
connector, though, is that if you need to remove the elevator, you'll have
to remove the connector...not convenient. (at least that's the way it is on
an RV...just a small round hole for the wire to pass through the elevator
spar)
Here's what I did instead:
http://www.rvproject.com/20040124.html
I used D-sub pins and sockets, and that's it. No connector body to worry
about. Heat shrink over each pin/socket pair, and then heat shrink over the
bundle. Need to remove the servo, cut the heat shrink, pull the
pins/sockets apart. Need to remove the elevator? Same deal, and there's no
fat connector to worry about.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenneth Gresham" <kgresham@mtco.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Quick connects
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Kenneth Gresham"
<kgresham@mtco.com>
>
> Does anyone have a suggestion for a simple quick connection for five or
more wires. This is for an electric trim tab servo and I would like to
easily remove for repair.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fig Z-16 Rotax 912/914 System |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Michel RIAZUELO" <mt.riazuelo@wanadoo.fr>
Bob,
You answered to Kinsley :
> The wire from bus to breaker is more than 6" long and has
> smoke-risk due to it's length an small size.
On my MCR SPORTSTER (ROTAX 912 and Z-16), the line from terminal 5 on S1, Master
Switch and the 5A CB is 2" long. The line from the 5A CB and the MAIN BUS
is 4" long.
Can I use 22AWG for the two line, without FuseLink ?
I have sawn on some aircraft silicone sleeves to "protect" FastOn terminals. I
use B&C ones. I never read anything about that on the Aeroelectric list. Usefull
or useless ?
Thanks again for the job you do for us.
Michel RIAZUELO
MCR SPORTSTER
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fig Z-16 Rotax 912/914 System |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gilles Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
> I have sawn on some aircraft silicone sleeves to "protect" FastOn
terminals. I use B&C ones. I never read anything about that on the
Aeroelectric list. Usefull or useless ?
>
Hi Michel and all,
In my opinion, "Faston protection" is not a big issue. We didn't bother with
it.
Regards,
Gilles
MCR 4S & Rotax 914
Cooling ducts definition in progress
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 41 Msgs - |
01/28/04
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
01/28/04
Bob states in the AeroElectric book that the 120 AC volt rating (for amps) is equivalent
for 12 volts DC.
Charlie
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Speedy11@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 1/29/04 2:58:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
>
><< I am leaning more toward the bat (aka Snapkap in the Carling Catalog)
>style handles
> as I feel that they would be more durable. >>
>
>Charlie,
>The Carling web site, in regard to the SnapKap switches says, "The LT-Series
>toggle switches are AC rated illuminated toggle switches featuring a
>three-color lighting sequence from a single lamp." I understood that we shouldn't
use
>AC switches because when used with DC power the contacts burn slightly each
>time they are thrown thus building up over time and causing long term trouble.
>Is it okay to use AC switches?
>Stan Sutterfield
>Tampa
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Lighted Toggle Switches now Panels |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Dave Morris <dave@davemorris.com>
I haven't planned anything fancy, since they will be hidden behind the
panel and hopefully have a very long lifetime. My whole airplane is made
of epoxy, maybe I'll just drill a little hole in the fiberglass panel,
stick the LED into the hole and glue it in place with 2 minute stuff. I'm
thinking one LED aimed at the top back side and one at the bottom should
give plenty of illumination.
Dave
At 11:50 AM 1/29/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
><jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
>Dave -
>
>Thanks for the info. I'm planning on using LED's. The engraved panels will
>be over an aluminum panel of the same size. Looks like we'll have to
>experiment on the size and placement of the LED's. Drill holes in the
>aluminum plate and pot the LED's into the holes? Do you know of any good
>mounting hardware for LED's? Might be able to adapt Bob's roll-your-own
>kind that he has posted on his site.
>
>John
>
>
Dave Morris
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: several questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:49 AM 1/30/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Troy Scott"
><tscott1217@bellsouth.net>
>
>Bob Nuckolls et al,
>
>Today I was at Home Depot "Electrical Solder" described as "lead free", 95%
>tin/5% antimony. After looking at several brands, I realized that ALL the
>"electronics grade" solder there was "lead free". Is this because of new
>government guidelines or some lawsuit problem? Is this solder good for our
>purposes?
I don't know. We're all aware of the ever increasing shrillness of
voices decrying this gawdawful pollutant and that stress on the
environment with all too many politicians ready to mount up with
their white hats on and come charging over the hill to our "rescue".
Problem is that there's so much BS stirred in with the real science
that it's difficult to sort out the pieces. Solders in hardware stores
for copper plumbing have been lead-free for a lot of years. Yeah,
I can see some basic logic in that . . . we DO drink water that flows
past the joints.
You might poke around on the 'net and see what the rumblings are
about non-lead solders for electronics. Not having any good
information one way or the other, I'd stick with what we know
works VERY well, good ol' 60/40 or 63/37 tin-lead with a good
flux. Get a name brand like Kester or Multicore.
>Bob, I've ordered the circuit board for your Audio Isolation Amplifier. I'd
>like to use it to eliminate the need for an audio panel. I'll have an SL30
>Nav-Com, another Com- only radio and an RST Marker Beacon Receiver. I plan
>to just use the volume controls to select what I want to hear. I want to
>utilize the internal intercom in the SL30. Do you foresee any problems with
>this audio setup?
Lots of folks have been doing this.
>Have you considered a way to make the stereo input "auto
>mute" in favor of communications from ATC?
There are a ton of features we could build into an audio
system . . . but that means going toe-to-toe with folks
who have been doing that for years and doing it rather
well. I prefer to offer goodies you can't get anywhere
else -OR- item that can blow away some piece of junk
already in the markeplace.
>In your book I read about the method for trimming the quarter-wave dipole
>antennas like I have installed in my Glasair. You mention a "through-line
>wattmeter". I haven't been able to find out anything about this device.
>Can you elaborate?
Here's the gold standard in thru-line wattmeters.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3074027135&category=48701
You also have to have a "slug" that covers the frequency
and power range of interest. They're kinda pricey for a
one time need. See if you can borrow/rent one from a local
two-way radio shop . . . or pay one of their techs to come
out and do a look-see on your antennas.
Here's my favorite antenna tool.
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/products.php?prodid=MFJ-259B
>I've been planning to mount my transponder antenna on an aluminum inspection
>cover. I read in your book that the ground plane diameter should be twice
>the element length. Does this mean EXACTLY twice the length of the element?
>Of is a little bigger OK? I see this style antenna mounted on the bottom of
>aluminum airplanes where the whole airplane, or at least the whole panel is
>the ground plane.... Anyway, the round aluminum inspection panel where I'd
>planned to mount it is 6 5/8" in diameter. I also have another inspection
>panel available that is 5 5/8".
The purists will debate at length and with enthusiasm
as to the effectiveness of finely tuned antennas. Fact
is that from an airplane, everything you talk/listen to
is line-of-sight . . . a wet string would get you 90%
coverage of your area of interest. When it's EASY to
be precise, why not? If convenience drives you to consider
the inspection plates, go ahead. Nobody will know the
difference but you . . and that only because you took
the time to worry about it a little.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Alternator Field Wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Bob -
Z-14. In various wirebooks I see AWG 20 and AWG 18 as wire to pin 6 (bus
voltage) on the LR-3's. For a 70 amp main and 20 amp secondary alternator
which combo is best:
24AWG Fuse link and 20 AWG?
or
22 AWG fuse link and 18 AWG?
Many Thanks,
John Schroeder.
--
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator Field Wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:39 PM 1/30/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder
><jschroeder@perigee.net>
>
>Bob -
>
>Z-14. In various wirebooks I see AWG 20 and AWG 18 as wire to pin 6 (bus
>voltage) on the LR-3's. For a 70 amp main and 20 amp secondary alternator
>which combo is best:
>
>24AWG Fuse link and 20 AWG?
>or
>22 AWG fuse link and 18 AWG?
If the wire between bus and regulator is long (say over
6 feet) we'd like to minimize resistance . . . I'd
go 18/22 just for grins. Otherwise 20/24 is fine.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fig Z-16 Rotax 912/914 System |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:10 AM 1/30/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Michel RIAZUELO"
><mt.riazuelo@wanadoo.fr>
>
>Bob,
>
>You answered to Kinsley :
>
> > The wire from bus to breaker is more than 6" long and has
> > smoke-risk due to it's length an small size.
>
>On my MCR SPORTSTER (ROTAX 912 and Z-16), the line from terminal 5 on S1,
>Master Switch and the 5A CB is 2" long. The line from the 5A CB and the
>MAIN BUS is 4" long.
>Can I use 22AWG for the two line, without FuseLink ?
Sure
>I have seen some aircraft silicone sleeves to "protect" FastOn terminals.
>I use B&C ones. I never read anything about that on the Aeroelectric list.
>Usefull or useless ?
Looks purty . . . your option. I think heatshrink
would look better and would stay in place better.
>Thanks again for the job you do for us.
My pleasure sir.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
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